oct.-nov.-dec. 2016 issue 16
international magazine
international information
www.jeweltimemag.com
How Your Attitude Can Turn a “Just-Looker” Into a “Just-Buyer” Those Those first first 30 30 seconds seconds are are crucial. crucial. Here’s Here’s how how to to use use them them right right
Brought To You By Jewelers of America Why Every Bench Jeweler Should Be Certified
What is a tourbillon? Tourbillons Tourbillons put put on on the the most most mesmerising mesmerising show show in in the the watchmaking watchmaking arena? arena?
The return of the pendant watch Pendant Pendant watches watches are are back back in in vogue vogue
How to Identify Fake Watches
editorial www.jeweltimemag.com facebook.com/jeweltimemagazine
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Another year comes to an end
F
or some it was a difficult year, for others an ordinary year for a small portion of professionals, a good year. What is it that makes a difference to some? Especially in a demanding year in the midst of unprecedented economic crisis? In my opinion, the times require more effort than ever before and also worth to recall, some basic principles for the sale of products or services. How many know the theory of 4P? He was in 1960 when Professor Jerome McCarthy referred to the 4P, from then until now most companies in the world, chasing their strategy based on this theory. 1. Product. This so obvious point is the point where most stand and for longer. Of course I do not support (or the professor of theory), that the product does not require our respective attention, since it also is our driving force. But this which is the principle of this theory is that we should observe the balance and the remaining 3 points. 2. Price. If someone thoroughly studied the theory of 4P, will understand that a “cheap” product alone can not stand on any market. Of course it should be competitive, but also plays an important role and the “value” of the product, without forgetting that we have two other points that we must look. 3. Promotion. This is the weirdest or misunderstood point. Advertising, promotions, promotions, packaging, name brand and so many other things we can do. Of course, today our industry is composed of small - sized enterprises, so there is the “all by myself I do.” I believe, however, that the small and someone should have a percentage of revenue, so you can get a view of a more specific, or at least should have time for studying and watching the general area marketing. 4. Place. Do you shop? or belong to wholesalers? Different things you should consider.
But you will agree with me that this point, especially nowadays with the technology at our feet (internet, social media, etc.) should always be concerned about. Very briefly (I could not also to develop the entire theory of professor), like in this issue to refer to the value of the theory of 4P. Because personally, I would like to know every end of year and beginning a new and what went badly and what went well, and of course due to this. In fact, I think no one can guarantee success, but history has shown that there are ways that it is worthwhile to try. In 2017, it seems it will continue to be a year, with difficulties and a state that can not stand next to professional, as it should, but that should in no case, to deprive our hope and vision that everyone has of us, himself, his family and his business. I personally and all those working for the magazine “Jewel Time” and the website “www.jeweltimemag.com”, we wish they, all your desires, are made in 2017.
Publisher Tasos Spanoudis
PROPERTY Spanoudis Anastasios, 2 Parnassou Street, 105 61 Athens, Greece tel.: +30 210 32 33 394, fax: 210 32 33 395, www.jeweltimemag.com, e-mail: info@valkat.gr, info@jeweltimemag.com - www.facebook.com/jeweltimemagazine - twitter.com/jeweltimemag PUBLISHER Tasos Spanoudis EDITORIAL MANAGEMENT : Dimitris Stamoulis, CREATIVE ART DIRECTOR: John Kanakis, PUBLIC RELATIONS MANAGEMENT: Mina Dimopoulou, COPY-EDITING: Antonia Patrinou, PHOTOGRAPHY: John Soulis, all4mat studio, ACCOUNTING: Mirella Bitali It is prohibited to republish, produce and transmit, with any audiovisual mean, all or part of the magazine, without the written permission of the publisher.
-4oct.-nov.-dec. 2016 i. 16
index news 10.
exhibition 19.
Tiffany & Co Sales Rise for the First Time in Two Years
12% increase in visitors 31st KOSMIMA
watch 20. trends 12.
The return of the pendant watch Pendant watches are back in vogue. We reveal the most fashionable ways to wear time beyond the wrist
What is a tourbillon? Tourbillons put on the most mesmerising show in the watchmaking arena?
14.
Mobile phones are more like jewelry ...
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index watch 22.
marketing 30.
How to Identify Fake Watches
How Your Attitude Can Turn a “Just-Looker” Into a “Just-Buyer” Those first 30 seconds are crucial. Here’s how to use them right
economy 27.
Brought To You By Jewelers of America Why Every Bench Jeweler Should Be Certified
contest 32.
Winners of the 7th annual International Pearl Design Contest #CPAA
gemologies 34.
104 carat Diamond found by Lucapa Diamond Company Australian diamond mining company Lucapa Diamond Company has made its third big diamond discovery of the year
-8oct.-nov.-dec. 2016 i. 16
news
Tiffany & Co Sales Rise for the First Time in Two Years
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ut being next to Trump Tower has hurt traffic at its flagship, it admits Tiffany & Co. reported a 1 percent rise in worldwide net sales for the third quarter (ended Oct. 31), ending two years of sales declines. The company also reported a 5 percent increase in net earnings to $95 million. All in all, though, the company admitted results were “mixed,” with comps falling 2 percent (3 percent on a constant exchange basis). Fashion jewelry saw a modest increase, the company said, but that was offset by softness in other categories. On a conference call following the release of the results, newly appointed chief financial officer Mark Erceg said that the security, media, and protests surrounding the Trump Tower had hurt foot traffic at Tiffany’s New York City flagship. “Given the close proximity of our Fifth Avenue flagship store to the Trump Tower, we have noted that recent election-related activity has caused minor disruptions to pedestrian foot traffic around that store,” he said. “Federal, state, and local officials, and Tiffany security personnel, are all doing a fabulous job to minimize any disruption. Given
the importance of the holiday selling season to our flagship store, we remain understandably cautious on how this situation may affect sales over the current weeks.” Tiffany “cannot provide any assurance that sales in that store will not be negatively affected by this activity in the fourth quarter or in any future period,” added a statement. Also in that statement, CEO Frederic Cumenal said he was “encouraged” by signs of an upturn but was waiting to see more positive data. “In this recent quarter, we saw a smaller sales decline in the U.S. from earlier this year, while Asia-Pacific results reflected strong growth in mainland China and a relatively smaller decline in Hong Kong,” he said. “Our business in Japan performed well, which we attribute to spending by domestic consumers, but we believe the strengthening of the yen has negatively impacted purchases by Chinese consumers. We also saw relative strength in U.K. sales but a continuation of softness on the European continent.” Despite the improvement, the company is not changing its guidance, which predicts sales for fiscal 2016 will fall in the low single digits.
- 10 oct.-nov.-dec. 2016 i. 16
news
- 11 oct.-nov.-dec. 2016 i. 16
trends
The return of the pendant watch Pendant watches are back in vogue. We reveal the most fashionable ways to wear time beyond the wrist. What goes around comes around and the pendant watches of yesteryear are back on women’s necks. From the revival of the lorgnette to the abundance of secret watches, masquerading time in a piece of jewellery is a prevailing trend.
The mystery of Cartier’s movements A giant on the jewellery scene, Cartier is master of combining dazzling high jewellery with watchmaking theatrics as you can see in the hypnotising Tourbillon Mystérieux Azuré pendant watch, above. A combination of diamonds, sapphires and onyx - designed to evoke the outstretched wings of a butterfly - form the body of the pendant with its detachable 25.93-carat Sri Lanka sapphire dangling graciously below. Beyond the dazzling beauty of this piece you will notice a whirling double tourbillon suspended in the void at the top of the pendant. Known as a mystery tourbillon, as it appears to float in space, this extraordinary complication has been one of Cartier’s most famous hat tricks since 1912. The Panthère Mystérieuse pendant watch, below, is unequivocally Cartier. A lithe diamondstudded panther perches on a swing that surrounds a semi-translucent agate medallion framed by diamonds and obsidian. Transfixed by the mysteriously floating hands of the watch, the panther’s emerald eyes gaze at the hour and minute hands sweeping magically around the dial.
- 12 oct.-nov.-dec. 2016 i. 16
trends
Harry Winston’s romantic Rosebud pendant watch Harry Winston hopes we will be love-struck by the Rosebud heart-shaped pendant watch, below, perhaps the most romantic way of wearing time. The stylised white gold heart is pierced by Cupid’s magical arrow decorated with Harry Winston’s signature cluster technique in which diamonds are set at varying angles to increase the voltage of the stones. For even more fun, a simple clip allows you to wear your heart on your sleeve, on an elegant black satin strap.
The Pendentif Boule by Hermès This colourful spherical Pendentif Boule pendant watch showcases the skills of Hermès’ enamellers. Cloisonné enamelling decorates one half of the white gold globe. This complex technique uses tiny white gold cloisons or partitions, which in this case, have been carefully erected on the domed surface. Different colours of enamel are then applied to each chamber and fired at high temperatures. Dangling from the white gold chain of the Pendentif Boule, below, the globe whirls and twirls show off its two faces: a multi-coloured floral pattern on one side and a pretty white-of-mother watch dial on the other.
Roger Dubuis and the year of the Velvet Diva Women, or rather divas, were in the limelight in 2016 at Roger Dubuis with glamorous Hollywood-style creations marrying the best of high jewellery with high-end horology. The Velvet Ribbon pearl sautoir necklace, below, literally leaves time dangling in the form of a pendant watch swaying from a strand of creamy white Akoya pearls and inky black onyx beads. The case and dial are encrusted with 918 baguette-cut and brilliant-cut diamonds and the manual-winding movement is certified with Seal of Geneva. For added razzamatazz, the onyx and pearl tassel will move to the beat of its owner.
- 13 oct.-nov.-dec. 2016 i. 16
trends
Mobile phones are more like jewelry ... How much money do you have a cell phone? Surely the answer is different for each person. But all agree that today a user needs a device to make calls, exchange messages, to draw a clear picture and allows surfing the Internet. These functions can be to find consumers on virtually all mobile phones on the market.
But an element of extremely wealthy people is that they spend fabulous sums on things for which they could spend less ... just because they can. With that in mind, some improvement companies have built luxurious mobile addressed to too few people and cost a fortune. Most of them are even iPhone because of the masterful work of the designer Stuart Hughes at Apple products ...
Gresso Luxor Las Vegas Jackpot In August 2010, the Russian company Gresso famous for making luxury items and mobile phones, introduced a mobile which cost, according to gsmarena.com a million dollars. What makes the cell so special is the black diamond covering the front part of the apparatus, and a piece of wood 200 year old at the back of the phone. Also Gresso filled a line 12 mm to the device with 180 grams of gold.
- 14 oct.-nov.-dec. 2016 i. 16
trends
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trends
iPhone 5 Black Diamond A black diamond 26 carat decided to integrate an iPhone 5 a businessman from Hong Kong in the place of the famous Home Button on the Apple device. As expected, the smartphone’s price soared to 11.7 mil. Euro. Handmade iPhone 5 Black Diamond built by Stuart Hughes, in cooperation with the Goldstriker, which is wrapped in gold and diamonds and many other Apple products like Ipad. Note that the Phone 5 Black Diamond also has the Apple logo draped with 53 flawless diamonds, 24 carat gold weighing 135 grams, and the display of sapphire.
GoldVish Le Million In 2006 the Swiss GoldVish entered the Guinness Book of Records presenting the most expensive mobile manufactured and sold. The buyer was a Russian tycoon who became poorer by almost a million. The company specializes in the manufacture of such a mobile phone made oddly shaped and dressed with 18-carat gold and diamonds of 120 carats. Only three such devices were built, while one is only the confirmed sale.
- 16 oct.-nov.-dec. 2016 i. 16
trends
iPhone 4 Diamond Rose Edition Another work of Stuart Hughes impresses. The Hughes recreated the band around the sides of the iPhone 4 by adding gold and diamonds, and formed the Apple logo with 53 more diamonds. The cost of construction reached 5 million. Pounds, while among the diamonds there is a 7.4 carat pink! Diamond Crypto Smartphone Ten years ago it appeared the Diamond Crypto Smartphone and automatically won a place in the list of mobile phones that cost millions. In 2006, therefore, the Russian company JSC Ancort developed a cell-based functional Windows CE which was famous for its powerful capabilities in encryption technology ... The maker extolled the possibilities of mobile data protection, however, 50 diamonds were what made the price to reach $ 1.3 million.
- 17 oct.-nov.-dec. 2016 i. 16
trends
Diamond Ecstasy iPhone 6 From the list you will not be missing and a “smart” cell phone made of solid gold and diamonds. The reason for the «Diamond Ecstasy iPhone». If you wonder about who would give $ 3.5 million. To acquire the smartphone, according to Goldgenie company edited construction, in the wealthy client list are names such as: Usain Bolt, David Beckham and Puff Dundee. The valuable device is made of solid 24 carat gold and decorated with dozens of small diamonds.
iPhone 4S Elite Gold Although the iPhone 4S looks outdated before the iPhone 6s available today, there is a 4S costing EUR 7.2 million. This is because features 500 flawless diamonds, many of them rare, total weight over 100 carats and the Apple logo with no fewer than 50 diamonds. Not only the mobile phone and the case has been decorated with precious stones.
Savelli smartphone The mobile that made the Swiss firm Savelli jewelry is known as the smartphone of EUR 250,000. Of course the device belongs more in the category of jewelry rather than that of mobile, as it has a special design and manufacture of diamonds, gold and leather. The device of the Swiss released in selected markets in Russia, Europe, China and the Middle East.
- 18 oct.-nov.-dec. 2016 i. 16
exhibition
12% increase in visitors 31st KOSMIMA
W
ith increased traffic by 12% compared with last year’s corresponding organization and trade visitors from 14 countries, was completed yesterday at the Thessaloniki International Exhibition Centre the most radiant exposure, 31 KOSMIMA. Trade visitors from Albania, Bulgaria, Cyprus, Egypt, Fyrom, Germany, Kazakhstan, Lebanon, Romania, Russia, Sweden, Turkey, Ukraine and the US passed the “gates” of the annual autumn meeting of the jewelry and watch industry. This year’s report was greater both in number of exhibitors (80 participating companies) and the surface (3,700 sq.m.), which covered, compared to last year organizing. During KOSMIMA made and the awards of the 27th Contest painted Design Jewelry. The theme of this year’s competition called by the authors to be inspired by the poem by Constantine Cavafy, who wrote in 1913 on “the shop”. The results of the competition are the following: In category A, where students attended schools silversmith and design schools the first prize was awarded to Anna Latousaki (Municipality Law. Smyrna Silversmith & Department of metal), B in Charalampia chito (IEK Stemnitsa) and C in Minas Markakis ( IIEK Mokume). Commendations were awarded to Anna Pharmakidis (IEK Stemnitsa) Myrto Ioannidis
(IEK Stemnitsa) Archontia Vasila (IEK Stemnitsa), Evangelia Bliatsou (IEK Stemnitsa) and Maria-Christina Arvanitis (Municipality Law. Izmir Section Silversmith & metal-plastic). In the second category, where the participation of professional designers and jewelry manufacturers, won praise Elpida Kamitsi. The competition was organized by the National Federation of Craft Silversmiths Jewelers Orologopolon (POVAKO), in cooperation with the TIF-Helexpo. The appointment of the jewelry industry is now renewed for the exhibition “Greek Jewellery”, which will take place from 3-6 March 2017 at the Metropolitan Expo exhibition center in Attica.
- 19 oct.-nov.-dec. 2016 i. 16
watch
What is a tourbillon? Tourbillons put on the most mesmerising show in the watchmaking arena?
Y
ou’ve probably spotted them on countless high-end watches, those diminutive cages spinning gracefully on the dial, referred to as tourbillons. Like a miniature whirling dervish on your wrist, the tourbillon puts on one of the most animated shows in watchmaking allowing you to admire the rotating cage as it twirls before your very eyes. Touted as the pinnacle of a watchmaker’s skills and responsible for notching up the price and prestige of a watch, what exactly is a tourbillon? In a nutshell a tourbillon, which in French means ‘whirlwind’, is a device invented in 1795 by Abraham-Louis Breguet to counter the effects that gravity exerts on the movement of a watch. Watches do not perform at the same rate in different positions and the gravitational pull on a pocket watch held in a vertical position can either accelerate or slow down the balance wheel. Since pocket watches during Breguet’s day were worn inside a vest pocket in a vertical position, accuracy became a serious issue.
Breguet’s ingenious invention housed both the balance wheel and the escapement in a rotating carriage or cage. The idea was that by making the carriage rotate on its axis- at an average rate of one revolution per minute - the negative effects of gravity would be compensated and positional errors and timing variations would be averaged out. The tourbillon complication was considered one of the most sophisticated horological inventions of its day but fell into relative obscurity. Coinciding with the rebirth of traditional watchmaking in the early 1980s - following the devastating impact of quartz on the watch industry- the tourbillon made a comeback and was used as a showcase of watchmaking kudos. Thanks to its mesmerising presence, pumping like a mechanical heart on the dial, luxury Swiss watchmakers zeroed in on the tourbillon complication making it one of the most ostensible markers of an ‘expensive’ watch. Popular with both men and women, tourbillons are one of the
- 20 oct.-nov.-dec. 2016 i. 16
watch
most requested complications in watchmaking and come in every taste possible from high jewellery to stealthy sports models. The sophistication of mechanical movements today makes the use of tourbillons largely unnecessary and the debate about the real efficacy of tourbillons always meets with radically opposing answers. If you are a brand like Greubel Forsey, renowned for its incorporation of tourbillons inclined at vertiginous degrees and winner of numerous chronometry prizes, then tourbillons are vital allies in the war against gravity. However, most cogheads will concede that although they are a very attractive and exceedingly difficult to make, they are essentially obsolete complications in the accuracy department. A tourbillon is all about visual impact and when it comes to wow-factor spinning, a flying tourbillon is the model to go for. Unlike regular tourbillons, which are secured by a bridge, a flying tourbillon is supported from one side only and gives the impression of being suspended in space as it completes its elegant revolutions. Defying the tradition that a tourbillon watch is an infinitely delicate object and will cost you as much as a sports car - and in some cases a house - TAG Heuer introduced the Carrera Heuer-02T. The Volkswagen of tourbillons, this sporty watch is water-resistant to 100 metres and comes with a very attractive price tag of ÂŁ12,100 making it the “least expensive Swiss tourbillon chronograph on the market today.â€?
- 21 oct.-nov.-dec. 2016 i. 16
watch
How to Identify Fake Watches This is a topic that will never be finished. As long as there is money involved, fraud attempts will occur and people will try to sell counterfeit watches. We are not talking about a $20 fake Rolex that you can spot from a mile’s distance, but counterfeiting on a level that takes a bit of research to know whether you are being tricked (or not).
A
lthough we reckon you know you are getting scammed when someone is offering you a $1,000 Rolex Submariner, but what about the Submariner watches that are priced just below the average market price? Always make sure you know what you are buying, especially from dealers or sellers you don’t know. Brands from Audemars Piguet to Zenith: all are also available as counterfeits. The trick is to distinguish a fake from a real watch. Besides the generic comments on “Buy the Seller” and “If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is”, you need some pointers what to look for and how to identify a fake watch. TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph with a
lot of details that can be checked, Image: Auctionata Better yet: How to identify an authentic watch! The answer is in the details of the watch. It requires a bit of experience, and, in some cases, even the help from an expert or from the watch manufacturer, but identifying an authentic watch is mainly done by visually checking for certain details. These include the use of certain materials as well as the finish and quality of the exterior (case, bracelet, crown, pushers, etc.), but they are mainly found on the dial. Here you will be able to tell right from wrong, using high-resolution images from an authentic
- 22 oct.-nov.-dec. 2016 i. 16
watch
watch as a reference. The size of the logo, the typography, the use of wording on the dial (Swiss Made, T Swiss Made T, T < 25 Swiss Made, etc.), the size of hour markers, the print quality on the dial, and so on. Be careful now, as some watch manufacturers also work with different dial suppliers. Not every change or deviation is per definition reason to believe something is not authentic. Some brands also use specific ‘water marks’ to make the life of counterfeiters a bit more difficult. Omega engraves a little symbol in the caseback of their watches that seems to be hard to copy (looking like a globe) and Rolex uses laser-etched crowns in their sapphire crystals and show the serial number of a watch on the dial (outer ring). The problem with Rolex, Omega, and some other big brands is that they don’t always (Rolex never) use a transparent caseback. In most cases, the movement used in the watch will immediately give away whether a watch is authentic or not. In some cases, counterfeiters will use imitation ETA movements or even real ETA movements for their watches, but not finish them on the same level as the real deal. Almost impossible to fake: Patek Philippe Handwound Chronograph Movement, Image: Bert Buijsrogge With high-end pieces from A. Lange & Söhne or Patek Philippe, for example, the cost of producing a similar looking (and finished) movement is too costly or simply impossible, so we don’t feel there is much danger there. The biggest issue is identifying fake from authentic vintage watches, where counterfeiters have been
using original parts to create that highly sought-after vintage Rolex Submariner, for example. We urge you to rely on experts that are willing to help you on this. In all honesty, it isn’t a bad thing to vent your questions and doubts on a public place like a forum, where there will always be people with interesting remarks and comments on the watch. The risk is that someone might go around your back and ‘snag’ your precious sought-after watch from the party that offers it as soon as you put it online with some questions. That’s still a smaller risk than buying a worthless fake piece, however. Common signs of a fake • Spelling errors on the dial • The logo may not be centred properly • On a metal strap the links don’t move freely • Letters printed on the dial are not sharp and crisp • Functions like sub dials and helium release valves don’t function • They weigh less because of the cheaper materials used • Lack of or poor packaging • A loud ticking noise, most quality watches are very quiet • Fingerprints, dust or other residue inside the watch
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watch
OMEGA
1.
The metal pearl “Lum dot” within the triangle above the 12 mark is often misaligned or off centre
2.
The Omega logo may be printed on the face when it should be applied either as steel, yellow gold or white gold
3.
Genuine Omega watches use special “LumiNova” on the dial and hands to help them glow brightly. Fakes will often have a faint or non-existent glow
4.
If your Omega has mechanical movement the second hand should sweep smoothly around the face. If the model is supposed to have a quartz movement it should tick between points
5.
When setting the date on a genuine Omega the number will click into place and centre. With a fake, these numbers may not line up or sometimes the numbers are partially obscured
6.
Omega print a red dot on the rim of the case back to show if the watch case has been opened. If this is missing and you believe the watch to be new, it is likely a fake
7.
Taking off the case back, the movement is unlikely to have the brand markings, although some more expensive fakes may have also duplicated this
8.
The watch number will be etched with a laser on the lug. This number should correspond to the number provided with the Chronometer Certificate & warranty
- 24 oct.-nov.-dec. 2016 i. 16
watch
1.
ROLEX A “Registered Design” number is engraved between the lugs, at the “12”. At the “6” between the lugs you should see the serial number of the case. If either number is missing the watch is a fake
2.
The bezel should always line up with a minute marker when moved
3.
The winding crown should be finely carved and engraved, it will be a work of art, fakes often have basic winding crowns which feel much less intricate and look plain
4.
Movement on the second hand needs to be completely smooth it should sweep round rather than “jump”
5.
A crown symbol should be etched into the glass at the 6 o’clock position
6.
Real Rolex watches have a “Cyclops” window which magnifies the date 2.5X. On fakes the magnification is often 1.5X or less so the date will look small and be hard to read
7.
With the exception of a few ladies watches which have engravings, Rolex case backs are smooth or have a hologram
8.
The case back: there are only two very rare models of Rolex from the 1930s which have clear case backs which allow you to see the inner working. If you are buying a relatively modern Rolex with a clear case back it is a fake
- 25 oct.-nov.-dec. 2016 i. 16
watch
TAG Heuer
1.
Buttons on the side may have no effect on the small chronographs
2.
Tag Heuer use “LumiNova” which glows very brightly in diminished light conditions, test your watch by charging it with a torch and checking the luminosity of the “glow in the dark” elements
3.
Tag Heuer use sapphire crystal glass as such, if water is dropped onto the face the droplets should pull together rather than disperse
4.
The words “Swiss Made” should be printed on the bottom of the face
5.
On the crown, the Tag Heuer logo should be pressed into the steel not glued on. Glue residue and uneven edges are sure signs of a fake
6.
Fakes often have solid links or a line on the link which might make you think the links are two pieces, genuine Tag Heuer watches will have a left and right piece for each of the links
7.
Blue screws indicate a COSC approved movement, many Tag Heuer Watches are not. If it is COSC approved, your watch should always come with a COSC certificate card
8.
The movements should include a serial number which matches the casing and the paperwork which goes with it
- 26 oct.-nov.-dec. 2016 i. 16
economy
Brought To You By Jewelers of America Why Every Bench Jeweler Should Be Certified Professional certification has become so closely linked to higher levels of quality and performance that many consumers have considerable reluctance using products or services unless the professionals and companies selling them have invested the time to become a certified professional within their field
C
onsider this: Would you trust a doctor who wasn’t certified to repair a broken bone? Or use an accountant that isn’t a certified public accountant to prepare your tax returns? Probably not, right? Since so much of the jewelry industry’s customer interaction is reliant on trust, professional certification for jewelers is an idea whose time has come. If any of the following applies to you, than an industry certification could be the right fit: • A desire to advance your career through a promotion or greater salary • Want to attract new customers through
the certification program’s marketing or directories • Need a better way to communicate your skills without going back to school • Would like to differentiate yourself from other jewelers who have similar education credentials, like Graduate Gemologists Professional certification often recognizes that you have a specialized form of training and technical knowledge in a specific field, and designates a level of competence in the field based on pre-determined standards. Unlike a professional educational degree, certification tests knowledge and skills you already possess and requires commit-
- 27 oct.-nov.-dec. 2016 i. 16
economy
ment of much less time. So, how can jewelers leverage the benefits of certification? Jewelers of America, the leading association for businesses serving the fine jewelry marketplace, offers professional certification for jewelers that assesses sales, management and bench skills. The JA Professional Certification program, established two decades ago, validates jewelry craftsmanship, knowledge and proficiency. “Being a certified jeweler is an important designation. There is a fundamental difference between a JA Certified Professional and someone who just happens to make or sell jewelry. Most importantly it shows consumers they can buy with confidence from the jewelry professional.” -Jewelers of America President & CEO David J. Bonaparte Professional certification is a win-win proposition for everyone involved. It allows consumers to make positive assumptions about your jewelry business, and the way you conduct it, that gives them peace of mind. It also provides you with strategic advantages over your competition. Moving a jewelry customer from the sales floor to the cash register is easier when you don’t have to spend inordinate amounts of time proving to your customers that you are educated, honest, professional and committed to ethics. This alone should be reason enough to become a certified professional, but there are many others.
For one, it offers additional marketing exposure. “Advertising my certification has made a tremendous difference in the quality of jewelry that comes into our store. I get to pick and choose the items I want to work on. Choosing to become certified was one of the best decisions I ever made,” says Tom Weishaar, Master Goldsmith, Underwood’s Fine Jewelry. Professional Certification benefits a business by publicly demonstrating your store’s commitment to professionalism, thereby increasing the jewelry store’s credibility with customers. Additional promotional benefits include listings in professional directories and a newsworthy reason to promote yourself or your store. JA Certified Professionals are highlighted in JA’s Find a Jeweler Directory and receive press exposure to their local press outlets. Another benefit is the ability to clearly communicate your expertise and skill level. Jewelers who have passed the JA Professional Certification exams at various levels often find the exam challenging, but express a sense of satisfaction and achievement after they receive their certification. They display the certificate with pride. “As a business owner, one of the program’s advantages is the ability to show new customers my professional credentials: framed on the wall are my JA Bench Professional Jeweler certification and GIA Graduate Gemologist diploma. Certification con-
- 28 oct.-nov.-dec. 2016 i. 16
economy
veys to new customers a sense of trust that you’re a professional and you know and care about what you’re doing,” says Cindy Crounse, owner, Refined Designs. In the near future, customers won’t just
look for their jeweler to be certified – they will demand it. Make sure you stay ahead of the curve by certifying your skills through a professional organization like Jewelers of America.
- 29 oct.-nov.-dec. 2016 i. 16
marketing
How Your Attitude Can Turn a “JustLooker” Into a “Just-Buyer” Those first 30 seconds are crucial. Here’s how to use them right
R
egardless, they walked into your store hoping to have an awesome experience. Remember: Clients decide within the first 30 seconds whether they’re staying or leaving. What happens now will make or break your sale. Unfortunately, many salespeople predetermine that the “just looking” client is going to leave empty-handed. They may walk away or say something like, “If you see something you can’t live without, holler at us.” They’re telling the client with their body language that they don’t have time for them or that they have something more important to do. Instead, when a client says she’s “just looking,” respond this way: “I’m so glad you
came in. This is a good place to look.” Or say, “I always do that before I buy.” Or smile and say, “I’ll be right back,” and bring them a beverage or cookie. Don’t ask if they want something to drink because they’ll almost always say no. Just bring it. This will catch them off guard in a good way, because no one else did this. With “just looking” clients, always smile and give them a little space. Be on the same side of the case that they are on. This takes away pressure because you are not in the power position behind the case. After your introduction, ask: • “Have you ever been in our store before?” • “Are you looking for something special for yourself or someone else?”
• “Did they give you any hints?” • “Is it a special occasion?” • “Have you seen something somewhere else that you like?” • “Is there a particular brand you’re looking for?” If you’re still not getting anywhere, say, “Let’s take a tour.” This lets them see the whole store. They may pass by the case where they want to stop and look. Now you can ask more questions depending on the showcase, like “Do you like yellow or white gold better?” or “What is your favorite colored stone?” When the client stops, always watch her eyes and see what she’s looking at in that case. If you pull out an item near the one she’s looking at, she’ll tell you the right one. Take out the item she wants, make sure it’s in her hand, and don’t ask too many questions too fast. Always pause after you ask and give her time to think and answer. Show genuine interest. Be patient. Get her to talk about herself. The more she talks, the more you listen, the higher the closing ratio. And if you let her talk more, she’ll feel like she’s in control and you’re not being pushy. If you ask a question and the client responds with “You know, I really am just looking,” give her a little more space. Watch her body language and in a few minutes, come back and re-approach. When you think about it, we’ve all said, “I’m just looking.” And, we’ve all bought something and given them our money afterwards. What made the difference was the experience delivered. Always take “just looking” clients seriously — they’re shopping today.
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marketing
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contest
Winners of the 7th annual International Pearl Design Contest #CPAA Peter Bazar, President of the Cultured Pearl Association of America, Inc. announces the winners’ of CPAA’S 2016-2017 International Design competition. “We are very happy with the success of this year’s competition, entries from 18 countries we received” Mr. Bazar reported The judging panel,was: Jean-Francois Bibet, Cartier, Workshop Director Production - Shane Clark, Brides , Senior Fashion & Accessories Editor - Beth Berstein, Author, Jewelry Journalist And Jewelry Consultant - Michelle Graff, Editor-In-Chief, National Jeweler - Cheryl Kremkow, Director, Citrine Media - Jennifer Pearson, VP Marketing, Assael. Award Winners
President’s Trophy “Murmuring Stream” Yi-Shiun Tsai of Taipei City, Taiwan .The highest honor awarded to a design that unanimously captivated judges as the best of the best
Luster Award “Dentelle” The Pearl Exporting Company of Portland, ME. Most marketable design for retail
Orient Award “Orbital” Brenda Smith of Woodstock, GA and “Wrapped” Susan Hoge, Campanelli & Pear of Troy, MI. Compelling design esthetic; inspiring a new affinity for pearls
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Fantasy Award “Path-Braker” Murugesh Manickam of Bangalore, India. Conceptual, aspirational design prohibitive to fabricate
contest
Designer’s Award “Pearl Blossom” Wan-Fang Ting of Taipei City, Taiwan. Given to the entry that takes pearls to the far corners of the imagination
The Visionary Award “Safe and Sound” Yi-Hsien Lu of Taipei City Taiwan. Redefining the iconic pearl strand; shifting perception of cultured pearls for today’s buyer
Wedding Day Pearls “IVY” Sameena Anjum. T. Of Bangalore, India. Brides and pearls are synonymous; create a fantasy wedding with pearls
Brilliance Award “Impact” Ching-Ting Han of Taipei City, Taiwan. Best illustration for spectrum of pearl colors
The Fashion Award “Skeletal Pearl Collar” Chelsea Knights of Long Beach, California. Modern, fresh design could be seen on a Paris runway
Commendation Winners Hisano Shepherd, Little h Jewelry, Los Angeles, California Adam Neeley, Adam Neeley Fine Art Jewelry, Laguna Beach, California Michael Jensen, Michael Jensen Designs, Rio Rancho, New Mexico Lilly Street, Old Brookville, New York Paula Crevoshay, Albuquerque, New Mexico Elizabeth B. Kirby, Elizabeth Blair Fine Pearls, Harbor Springs, Michigan Randy Coffin, Coffin & Trout Jewelers, Chandler, Arizona J. Hunter Pearls Fiji, Savusavu Town, Fiji Barbara Heinrich, Pittsford, New York Link Wachler, Link Wachler Designs, Troy, Michigan
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gemologies
104 carat Diamond found by Lucapa Diamond Company Australian diamond mining company Lucapa Diamond Company has made its third big diamond discovery of the year
T
he discovery was made at their Lulo Diamond Project , located in Angola’s Lunda Norte diamond heartland and east of the Angolan capital of Luanda. It is the fifth diamond larger than 100 carats to be discovered there as the company is digging for the kimberlite pipeline where the diamonds in the mine originate. Amazing & Colorful Discoveries The 104 carat colorless diamond was classified as a Type IIa diamond – the same type as other extraordinary diamonds such as the priceless Hope Diamond and the Graff Pink. It is the second important diamond discovered at the mine this month. Earlier in September, Lucapa found a 38.6 carat rough pink diamond, the largest fancy color diamond ever discovered at the mine. How Much a 104 carat Diamond Worth? The most impressive find of the year was the 404 carat rough colorless diamond that was discovered in February, which sold for $16 million. Based on that final sales price, a rough estimate for the value of this diamond is about $4 million, which will depend on many factors such as the potential for the polished diamonds and market demand for a rough diamond of this size.
After all, the 1,109 carat rough diamond called the Lesedi la Rona failed to sell this summer when it went up for auction. The diamond, which was discovered at the end of 2015 by Lucara Diamond Corp failed to sell either due to its high reserve price or because of the lack of market demand for such a diamond. However, there is no reason to believe that the new Lucapa diamond will follow suit because a 104 carat diamond has a much stronger demand than a diamond over 1000 carats, as unbelievable as that may seem. The reality is that fewer bidders are able to afford such an impressive diamond so if the small pool of candidates is not interested, then a diamond will simply fail to sell. However, a respectable 104 carat diamond falls into the price range of many suitable bidders and will most probably sell with no issue, as the 404 carat diamond did in February. The striking 104 carat diamond is an excellent find for the small Australian company based in Perth and will go a long way towards establishing them as a force to contend with. Will it sell and for how much – time will tell…
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