Warsaw Insider October 2013 # 206

Post-war Reconstruction

Details of Old Town

page 18

Warsaw

page 22

Historic Legends page 24

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OCTOBER 2013

OLD TOWN, OLD HAT?

t’s Friday afternoon and your Skype is blinking with activity – but the messages aren’t work-related, rather the customary planning of the night that’s ahead. Where once such conversations would have been terse and abrupt (“Tortilla Factory, 17:03, see you there”), today they’re protracted negotiations conducted at delicate pace. They require diplomacy and tact of the kind last demonstrated at the Reykjavik Summit. For those leading an active social life, Warsaw now poses some very tough questions. It doesn’t help that her offer has expanded so quickly outwards: Powiśle, once considered a grey No Man’s Land, is at the edge of the hipster revolution. Even fringe dormitory districts now groan with restaurants and bars. One place, however, seems resistant to change: ladies and gentlemen, welcome to Old Town. Warsaw’s Old Town is nothing if it isn’t a conundrum. We all know it’s there, and we all appreciate its form. But do we visit it? Maybe once a year when a friend comes to town. At other times, you can sense the state of disconnect between this part and the rest. While Warsaw has come to be defined by its fast pace and fickle trends, Old Town sits at the top of the map like a rogue piece of jigsaw: it just doesn’t fit in with the rest of the city. It doesn’t help that, by in large, its restaurants and hangouts are a throwback in time: hung with stuffed falcons and obscure coats of arms. One gets the impression it’s a self-contained ghetto of tourists and old people. Be that as it may, the Old Town is also iconic; a symbol of this city’s resurrection. Overlooked by us for too long, we’ve used the first days of autumn to cover its streets and uncover its secrets. What we’ve found is the remarkable story of this living museum: a place to be explored, not ignored. As always, enjoy the issue (and see you in the Tortilla Factory at 17:03).

on the cover Our preoccupation with all things Old Town extends to the cover. ‘Made in 1954’ proclaims one building: we find out more on the the story behind the reconstruction of Old Town on page 18 (Illustration by Michał MIszkurka)

Alex Webber awebber@valkea.com

Officially recognized as Poland’s premier English-language magazine, the Insider is delighted to announce the launch of its new look website. Designed to reflect the nature of a dynamic and energizing capital, the Online Insider sails you through one of Europe’s most exciting cities. In a fast evolving city, the Online Insider opens the door to Warsaw’s secrets, stories and latest scoops. Don’t let Warsaw leave you behind:

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WARSAW INSIDER | OCTOBER 2013

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what’s inside

OCTOBER 2013

LISTINGS

Culture

Neighborhoods

Restaurants

Cafes & Wine Bars

Nightlife

07 Opener Boris Kudlicka 08 Calendar Music, art and events around town 10 Museums Listings 31 Insider Pick Wilanów Palace 35 Insider’s Pick Kaskrut 60 Insider’s Pick Sorbo Serpico

65 Insider’s Pick Bar Studio

INfront

13 News in Brief Demonstrations, murder, football and more... 16 City News Polish design makes world headlines, plus more new developments 34 Warsaw Foodie Latest from the blog frontline

Editor-in-chief Art Director Publisher Advertising Manager Key Account Manager Key Account Manager Distribution Manager

69 Insider’s Pick Przekąski Zakąski

Shopping

75 76

Insider’s Pick American Eagle Outfitters Insider’s Pick Plac Trzech Krzyży 3/4

22 Off the Wall The murals and wall art that define the historic center

Children

24 Legends of Old Town Tall tales from days of old

Lifestyle

FEATURES

18 Rebuilding Old Town The story behind Warsaw’s rebirth

26 Podkowa Leśna Day tripping to Poland’s garden city

Alex Webber awebber@valkea.com Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com Agata Torańska atoranska@valkea.com Agnieszka Kuczyńska akuczynska@valkea.com Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Contributors Gill Boelman-Burrows Iza Depczyk Jo Harper Karolina Kalinowska Michał Miszkurka Paula Rewald Ed Wight

79 Insider’s Pick Cukier Lukier 83 Insider’s Pick Siedlisko Sobibór 88 Classifieds

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VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2013 Warsaw Insider.

WARSAW INSIDER | OCTOBER 2013

Interview: Boris Kudlicka 7

CULTURE EVENTS 8 / MUSEUMS 10

Interview: Boris Kudlicka

Setting the Scene Until February the

National Museum will be presenting the works of Guercino, one of the most prominent painters of the Italian Baroque period. The Insider talks to the scenographers charged with creating the space in which this master is to be displayed: Joanna Kilian and Boris Kudlicka.

WI: What problems did you face with this exhibition? JK: The paintings we are working with are not in their original place – this is 21st century Warsaw, we can’t recreate the original context in which they were displayed, we can’t artificially recreate the world of Baroque. We can, however, suggest an atmosphere and that’s what we’ve done.

which has its physical limits and conditions. Then, there’s the baroque paintings, and how to stage them. From the beginning cooperation between the set designers and the director is of crucial importance. The vital elements crystallize during the first conversations: the concept behind the staging of the work, and the material prima of each performance.

What are the first steps a scenographer takes when handed a project like this? BK: There were two layers that needed to be understood. Firstly, the space itself,

How have you chosen to present the collection? BK: The main principal was based around light, color, illusion and perspective. These

were the elements I wanted to uncover to the audience. The paintings are so intense in content, color and texture that we needed a neutral background to enable people to get ‘inside’ the picture. We’ve covered the oak parquet with a black surface to reflect and echo the golden picture frames, and introduced a series of door frames leading to each room to create depth. The lighting is dark, mysterious. We haven’t lit the whole painting, instead we focus light on certain parts, almost like the way you see the light falling in a church. One room though, we’ve painted red, added semi-transparent red curtains. It’s abstract, it plays on the sub-conscious. The star of the show is Et in Arcadia Ego, and you’ve taken the unusual step of giving it its own room… JK: It demands special attention. By giving it a separate room we build interest in the picture. It’s the most famous painting of Guercino’s, the most curious. It deserves the space so people can contemplate it, and we feel giving it its own room adds to the viewer’s level of concentration. BK: The picture fits the central path we created. Like the Mona Liza , it was important to separate it from the others, to build anticipation and allow the viewer to slowly enter the picture. Boris, you’re primarily involved in theater. What differences are there between that and building sets for exhibitions, and are there any similarities? BK: On the one hand, they’re huge. In the theater, everything happens in front of the audience. In a museum though, the audience moves around the scenery. So there’s a massive difference in perspective. But there are similarities. In both situations, my job is to build the story. Define your work as a set designer… BK: In scenography anything is possible. It’s about building prototypes, constructing fantasies. It’s a combination of flying in the air and standing firmly on the ground!

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CULTURE EVENTS THIS MONTH 1

CONCERT Pink Martini 20:00, PKiN, Pl. Defilad 1 Known for their single Symphatique (“Je ne veux pas travailler”), this 14 member orchestra band is led by singer China Forbes and offers a unique combination of classical music, jazz, and Latin sounds, together with native French music-hall type melodies. Tickets from zł. 110-280. For further info see: kongresowa.pl

CONCERT múm 20:00, Basen ul. M. Konopnickiej 6 An experimental Icelandic group ‘whose music is characterized

by soft vocals, electronic glitch beats and effects, and a variety of traditional and unconventional instruments.’ Most recently, this outfit provided the soundtrack on Jack & Diane, a project that saw them collaborate with Ozzie songstress Kylie Minogue. For info see: artbasen.pl

CONCERT Bracia Figo Fagot 20:00, Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10 This cult Warsaw collective is best known for their ironic (and iconic) disco polo beats, pithy lyrics, blue language and hilarious videos. Tickets from zł. 30. For further info see: stodola.pl

RUN Run Warsaw

12:00 This 10K run starts off in deepest Mokotów before heading up to Jerozolimskie and then looping back to Łazienki. Expected to attract thousands of participants, it’s one of the highlights of the Warsaw running calendar. For registration and further info see: biegnijwarszawo.pl

7-23

FESTIVAL Festival of European Song Various venues The seventh edition of this annual festival present music from an array of international classical artists as performed by both Polish and foreign soloists. Featured composers include Mozart, Verdi, Britten, Erkin and Schumann. Find all this held in some of the most magnificent venues in Poland: Łazienki, the Royal Castle and Wilanów Palace.

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CONCERT Sex Mob 20:00, Palladium, ul. Złota 9 This New York based jazz ensemble will be performing their only Polish concert in Palladium, demonstrating just why they were rated as ‘Best Beyond Group’ and having the ‘Best Album’ by DownBeat magazine. ‘One of best live jazz acts around,’ say the critics. Tickets from zł. 100-140. For further info see: palladium.art.pl

CONCERT Fish 19:00, Progresja, ul. Kaliskiego 15A Scottish cult hero Derek William Dick, better known as Fish, arrives

Media Patronage

October 26 & 27

October 6 & 15

The Book Lovers Museum of Modern Art. ul. Pańska 3, www.news.cricoteka.pl/the-book-lovers

Live at Pardon To Tu Pardon To Tu, Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, tel. 513 191 641, www.pardontotu.pl

he Book Lovers project aims to shine a spotlight on books written by artists by way of a discussion platform. Organized jointly by Cricoteka and the Museum of Modern Art, the two day event will feature lectures, interviews, panels and readings. Guests who have already confirmed their presence include Barbara Browning, Simon Morris, Tom McCarthy, Will Holder, Lindsay Seers, Anne Demeester and many more besides. The event will wrap up with a discussion that ponders the question ‘how to present an art form that is predominantly based on the narrative and requires longer-term commitment from its viewer.’

For further info see: fit.waw.pl

WARSAW INSIDER | OCTOBER 2013

ecognized as Warsaw’s premier space for alternative sounds, Pardon To Tu live up to their reputation this October with two standout performances. First up, the thing perform on the 6th, with the Norwegian / Swedish free jazz ensemble still fresh from the experience of working with Neneh Cherry last year. Then, on October 15th, Matthew Shipp (shown above) will play alongside Marcin Masecki. Raised in Delaware, Shipp has been lauded as ‘one of the most brilliant pianists of his generation, and one of the most original stylists in jazz history.’

in Poland as part of his The Moveable Feast Tour – an intrepid global tour promoting his latest album: A Feast of Consequences. The former Marillion front man has quite a following here, so expect a belting atmosphere. Tickets from zł. 90-140. For futher info see: progresja.com COMEDY Dylan Moran 19:30, Palladium, ul. Złota 9 Does he need an introduction? Irishman Moran is recognized as one of the finest stand-up comedians of recent times, with his numerous achievements including the 1997 Perrier Award at the Edinburgh Fringe, and a pair of BAFTA awards for the achingly magnificent sitcom Black Books. Tickets from zł. 105-125. For further info see: palladium.art.pl

the symphonic orchestra of The Polish Baltic Philharmonic. Tickets from zł. 135-205. For further info see: kongresowa.pl

11-20

FESTIVAL Warsaw Film Festival Various Locations The WFF has evolved into one of the most prestigious festivals that Warsaw has on offer, something now recognized globally - in 2009 the WFF became one of 14 events endorsed by the International Federation of Film Producers Association. The festival showcases the best of Polish, European and international cinema, with a mission statement to increase international awareness of Polish film and culture. Audience interaction is encouraged by way of meetings and seminars. For further info: wff.pl

CONCERT

Serj Tankian 19:00, PKiN, Pl. Defilad 1 The lead vocalist of System of a Down arrives in Warsaw to boost sales of his latest solo work, Orca. Regarded as one of the most charismatic front men out there, he’ll be performing alongside

CONCERT Gordon Haskell 20:00, Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10 Gordon Haskell has played with League of Gentlemen, Quotations from Liverpool, Les Fleur de Lys, Cupid’s Inspiration, Flowerpot Men and more – even Jimmi

Hendrix. His greatest success was the 2001 hit How Wonderful You Are, and you’ll be correct to expect that to get an airing. Tickets from zł. 88. For further info see: stodola.pl

be-noticed band. Nominated for the Mercury Prize in 2010, their latest trip to Poland coincides with the 2013 release of their third studio album: Holy Fire. Tickets from zł. 125. For further info see: stodola.pl

25-31

CONCERT Tanita Tikaram 19:00,Palladium, ul. Złota 9 The prolific Tikaram has been big news ever since her 1998 debut album – Ancient Heart – shifted five million copies on account of best sellers such as Twist in My Sobriety. Since then her success has oscillated considerably, though fans can anticipate all the old hits as long as tunes from her 2012 album Can’t Go Back. Tickets from zł. 125. For further info see: palladium.art.pl

FESTIVAL

Sinead O’Connor 19:00, PKiN, Pl. Defilad 1 Best known for seminal hit Nothing Compares 2 U, not to mention a private life that’s best described as bat sh*t crazy, there’s not much we can say about this other than state the bleeding obvious – it’s going to be a seismic performance. Tickets from zł. 130-230. For further info see: kongresowa.pl

CONCERT Foals 19:00, Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10 Oxford act Foals have created a unique sound that fuses elements of rock, electronica and pop. Their 2008 album Antidotes peaked at No. 3 in the UK charts, though it was their follow-up Total Life Forever that really heralded their arrival as a stand-up-and-

Warsaw Jewish Film Festival Museum of the History of Polish Jews, ul. Anielewicza 6 The 11th installment of this annual festival will include screenings of The Survivors, a documentary which follows two researchers from the host museum as they travel Israel interviewing Holocaust survivors. For further info: wjff.pl

CONCERT

From

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CULTURE Car Museum ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), tel. 22 758 5067, www.muzuem-motorzyacji. com.pl. Approx. 300 vehicles all jumbled together like a broken jigsaw. Highlights include the ’79 Pope Mobile, Stalin’s limo and cars used to ferry Marilyn and Elvis. Other bits and pieces inc. vintage motors, a double-decker bus and a US tractor from 1895. Mapped out with little rhyme or reason, it’s a hoarder’s heaven, with extra oddities numbering WWII debris, a 7TP tank, a red English phone box and a plane... Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, www.kopernik.org.pl. Interactive, witty and surprising,

Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective. Oct 4: Around Jazz. A monthly jazz concert held in the planetarium with a ‘cosmic theme’. CSW ul. Jazdów 2, www.csw.art.pl. Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world (Edward Dwurnik, Jenny Holzer, Annie Leibovitz, Wilhelm Sasnal, Andy Warhol). The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. Ongoing until Nov 15: BRITISH BRITISH POLISH POLISH: Art from Europe’s Edges in the Long ’90s and Today. Works from 64 British and Polish artists, including Tracy Emin, Damien Hirst, Sam TaylorWood, Zbigniew Libera, Joanna Rajkowska and many more.

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Ongoing through October Five Flavours Festival Kino Luna, ul. Marszałkowska 28

ive Flavours is the only Asian film festival in Poland, and while the main event will run from November 4th to November 11th, followers of Asian cinema have the chance to whet their appetite well in advance. On October 2, 9 and 23 Kino Luna will be showing screenings of P-047, Bunohan, and The Mad Detective, while on the 30th viewers will have a choice between Eat Drink Man Woman and Life of Pi. Each screening is accompanied by a talk from Jagoda Murczyńska, one of the festival organizers. For further details see: www.piecsmakow.pl

WARSAW INSIDER | OCTOBER 2013

Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, www.dsh.waw.pl. The History Meeting House wins points for frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ It won’t take longer than twenty minutes to peruse whatever exhibition is on, but it’s still a very worthwhile diversion. Ongoing until Nov 17: I Will Be Photographing it in Colour. The Beginning of the 20th Century in Stanisław Wilhelm Lilpop’s Three-Dimensional Photographs. An exhibition of 180 photographs shot between 1908 and 1930, some of them using 3D techniques. Ongoing until Dec 31: Gerald Howson – A Very Polish Affair. Sixty photographs taken by Howson in 1959 during his three week trip around Warsaw, Kraków, Nowa Huta and Lublin. The negatives were smuggled out of Poland in Howson’s trouser leg, and remained unpublished for 50 years! Jewish Historical Institute ul. Tłomackie 3/5, www.jhi.pl. Officially opened in1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains art work, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past. Ongoing till Nov 30: Polish Art & the Holocaust. Classic works from the likes of Kantor and Szapocznikow are juxtaposed against the works of latter day artists such as Libera, Bałka and Sasnal. Historical Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 28/42, www.mhw.pl. The granddaddy of Warsaw museums is over the worst of a lengthy refit and gradually reopening bit by bit. The ground floor cinema is a must – playing a 20 minute film titled, it details the powerful story behind the destruction of Warsaw.

Preludes of the Museum of the History of Polish Jews ul. Anielewicza 6. Slated to open in full in the first half of 2014, this hugely impressive museum is already luring streams of onlookers eager to preview the temporary exhibits housed in the opening halls. Ongoing from Oct 18: Biographies of Things. A temporary display of items donated to the museum, among them toys, artwork, photos, religious items and everyday articles like travel trunks and clothing. The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.museum. Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, the world even, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to personalize the museum experience as never before. Over 5,000 objects are present, among them Chopin’s pocket watch, last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask. Królikarnia ul. Puławska 113A, www.krolikarnia.mnw.art.pl. Fine art galore inside an elegant suburban palace. The young curator has decided to show some forgotten treasures from the rich archives of the National Museum. The gallery also hosts more contemporary works, such as those by Nicolas Grospierre and Agnieszka Polska. Łazienki Królewskie ul. Agrykoli 1, www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl. Situated in the picturesque park which once housed the residence of King Stanisław August this museum includes paintings and furniture from one of the most glorious periods in Poland’s history as well as temporary exhibitions of more modern work. Legia Museum ul. Łazienkowska 6, www.legia.com. Aside from silverware affirming Legia’s

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF ORGANIZERS OR ARTISTS

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

status, find a vast collection of shirts, pennants and paintings (even part of an old floodlight). Pride of place goes to Legia’s favorite son, 80’s super star Kazimierz Deyna. Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw ul. Pańska 3, www.artmuseum.pl. The very first museum of modern art in Warsaw, still fighting for a proper location, bravely manages to provide visitors with a display of contemporary art, including works of Alina Sapocznikow, Zbigniew Libera, Paweł Althamer, Magdalena Abakanowicz, Miroslaw Bałka, Katarzyna Kozyra and Artur Żmijewski. Ongoing until January 6: In the Heart of the Country. The first comprehensive presentation of the museum’s international collection of art. Museum of Technology Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, www.muzeum-techniki.waw. pl. The very opposite of the new-fangled Copernicus Centre, here’s a place that embraces the old way of doing things. On show an eccentric – occasionally ludicrous – collection of junk that ranges from 8-bit computers to a German ‘Enigma’ machine. National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, www.mnw.art.pl. Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Ongoing till February 2, 2014: Guercino. The triumph of Baroque. A showcase of one of the most extraordinary Italian baroque painters. The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), www.neonmuzeum.org. A complete departure from the stuff museums in Poland are famed for, this long awaited project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the

city. Among the collection are 35 landmark signs, many of which date from the 60s and 70s. Palmiry National Memorial Museum Palmiry, www.palmiry.mhw. pl. An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story, with archival video footage complimented by exhumed exhibits and plenty of background info dealing with the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw. Pawiak ul. Dzielna 24/26. What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. Poster Museum in Wilanów ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, www.postermuseum.pl. With a collection that touches the 55,000 mark, here’s the biggest poster museum in the world – and also the original. Art spans the period from 1892 till 2002, and while the majority is Polish orientated works on display also include those by Dali and Warhol. Railway Museum ul. Towarowa 1, www.muzkol.pl. Inside the museum contains an unimaginative formula of train models (including one charmingly outdated model displaying a crash!), uniforms and paintings depicting Polish rail travel through the passage of time. Outside it’s a different story – find an amazing collection of locomotives, including armored vehicles and Comrade Bierut’s luxury saloon car.

Warsaw Uprising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, www.1944.pl. Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the Uprising. Exhibits range from a full size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. Outside, check the Nazi bunker behind the office, the panoramic view tower and the original statue of Prince Poniatowski. Zachęta National Art Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, www.zacheta.art.pl. Works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Cezanne, Ernst and Picasso, as well as luminaries of the Polish art scene such as Tadeusz Kantor, Alina Szapocznikow, Katarzyna Kozyra and Zbigniew Libera. Ongoing

until November 30: Christian Hutzinger’s W/W. Installation combining painting and architecture, exhumed exhibits and plenty of background info dealing with the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw. Ongoing till November 10: In God We Trust. A showcase of the wealth of beliefs and religious practices in the US.

NEED TO KNOW Museum hours (and prices) change way too frequently for our liking, so check indiviudal websites for the latest story. Note that many of these addresses close one day per week (usually Monday or Tuesday), and that an equal amount hold ‘visitor’ days once a week when admission prices are waived.

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October 11-27 11th edition of Fotografia Kolekcjonerska CSW, ul. Jazdów 2, fotografiakolekcjonerska.pl

or the eleventh year Fotografia Kolekcjonerska presents the best Polish photography in a unique exhibition space in the CSW. Among the 100 plus works will be the photographs of such renowned artists as Witkacy, Rafał Milach, Kacper Kacper and Karolina Breguła. The body of work, say organizers, ranges from the apocalyptic sight of Warsaw in ruins, to portraits of Poles you should know. The exhibition culminates with an auction on October 27. But bring a cheque book! Last year’s big seller was a Witkacy self-portrait, a snip at zł. 135,000. The exhibition will also run in tandem to numerous events, including screenings, seminars and workshops.

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INFRONT CITY 16 / CRIME 14 / LOCAL 14 / NEWS 14 / POLICTICS 13 / SPORT 14

POLITICS

Autumn of Discontent

PHOTOGRAPH SHUTTERSTOCK

Organized by the country’s two main unions – Solidarność (Solidarity) and the All-Poland Alliance of Trade Unions (OPZZ) – about 100,000 people demonstrated in central Warsaw on Saturday, September 14th. They were calling for improved social welfare and Prime Minister Donald Tusk’s resignation. They also called for the dismissal of Minister of Labour, Władysław Kosiniak-Kamysz. The demonstrations began in the middle of the week with roughly 10,000 demonstrators carrying drums, pipes and banners through the city center streets. The Saturday event was the largest mass demonstration in Poland in several years, with fears of rioting running high. Solidarność’s leader, Piotr Duda, railed against Tusk’s record on unemployment, which, he noted, stood at 13.1% in June this year, up from 9.5% during Tusk’s first full year in office in 2008. The unions demanded a minimum wage higher than the current €2.92 per hour, plus a retirement age below 67, a better health care system and a stronger welfare state. They also demanded a constitutional amendment that would allow popular referendums to push through such reforms. The demonstrators marched past parliament and submitted a petition at the Presidential Palace calling on President Bronisław Komorowski to intervene in the matter and “help rebuild social dialogue.” Opposition Law and Justice (PiS) leader Jarosław Kaczyński appeared on the Saturday. PiS is drawing close to the governing party, Civic Platform (PO), led by Tusk, in recent polls. The union’s message was close to PiS’s largely populist anti-PO rhetoric. “Today, the government has its final warning,” Jan Guz, leader of OPZZ, threatened. “If it does not draw conclusions, we will block the entire country,” he added ominously. Solidarity leader Piotr Duda said that the four-day protests, “were just the beginning of our journey.” Yet in spite of the fighting talk, the traditional descent into violence was avoided. (JH)

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INFRONT

BRIEFING ED WIGHT’S NEWS BITES MONKEY NUTS

Fifty Shades of…

The gray no-man’s land of Grochów has a new lease of life after one resident was moved to paint the façade of his dowdy block in a vivid rainbow of colors. The tenant, named only as Marcin, was inspired after seeing a similar project in the Spanish town of Grenada. On his return, he set about revolutionizing the look of ul. Grochowska 120, but only after a lengthy battle to convince the building’s more vintage residents. His work, unveiled at the end of August, has won widespread acclaim, and has fuelled hopes other gloomy stretches of Warsaw may have a comparable facelift.

FLAPPY HOUR A pub regular cleared his local when he turned up carrying a live unexploded WWII bomb. A police spokesman said, “The 70-year-old drinker said he had found it as he walked to the bar in Leszno through local woods. He then put it on the bar and asked other regulars what they thought it was. They recognized it immediately and the landlord cleared the place and called the police,” he said. Bomb disposal experts later removed the device and exploded it at a firing range.

SMALL HITCH SPORT

CRIME

Hot on the success of Euro 2012, the Polish Football Association has announced that Warsaw will bid to be one of the host cities of Euro 2020. For the first time ever the tournament will be spread over Europe, with games played across a total of 13 cities. But beyond the success of last summer’s tournament, Polish officials will be anxious to allay fears of a repeat of last October’s ‘water gate’ scandal when Poland’s match against England was called off.

Rumors that a serial killer may be operating in Warsaw gained ground after police investigators refused to rule out a link between the murder of a retired doctor and an elderly woman. The slayings, which happened six months apart in Sadyba and Imielin, have eerie similarities, with the killer believed to have entered the victims’ homes under the pretense of viewing their property. In each case, nothing of value was taken. So far, police are baffled.

Football’s Coming Home?

A Killer in Our Midst

WARSAW INSIDER | OCTOBER 2013

A van driver who picked up a hitchhiker and then rammed a train is being sought by police in Radom. The astonished 26-year-old hitcher had been in the van just a few minutes when the driver sped straight towards a level crossing. “I saw the train coming and thought he’d stop any minute. But he didn’t - he just kept going.” Amazed rescuers found Martina still conscious in the passenger seat. “The driver had fled on foot,” said police spokesman Andrzej Lewicki from the scene of the accident.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP; ALEX WEBBER; SHUTTERSTOCK; KEVIN DEMARIA

LOCAL

A zoo visitor was arrested after turning up in just her undies and asking keepers for a knife so she could cut off a monkey’s head for a snack. A spokesman at the zoo in Zamość said: “She was soaking wet and wearing just her underwear. She said she had been swimming in the flamingos’ lake and was feeling peckish so needed a knife to chop off some monkey heads to eat.” Police said the 30-year-old woman was being held while mental health checks were carried out.

INFRONT

IN THE CITY Renovation and Reinvention

The End is Nigh!

The Orco group announced the launch of what they claim to be ‘Europe’s greatest marketing suite’, on the 50th floor of the Złota tower. Europe’s highest residential project, designed by architect Daniel Liebeskind, has been cursed with delays since construction began in 2007. But the finish line is in sight with the opening of a 50th floor which features three show apartments and a lounge to be hired out for free to associations and groups of ‘high net worth individuals’. Prices for flats have been set at a breathtaking zł. 25,000-65,000 per sq/m.

Renovation work has started on the main corner of Świętokrzyska and Kopernik streets in central Warsaw. The area has been closed for over two years due to the construction of Warsaw’s second metro line. The City Hall said in a statement that, “after finishing the renovation, Świętokrzyska will be turned into an aesthetic and friendly walkway.” The first stage of renovation will be on Świętokrzyska between Nowy Świat and Tamka, with new curbs, two roundabouts and cycle paths. On the crossroads of Świętokrzyska and Kopernika and Kopernika and Tamka there will be roundabouts. The renovation is set to take about four weeks and cost about zł. 3 million.

In the Press

WARSAW INSIDER | OCTOBER 2013

In with the New

Work on a new hotel-office complex, with a main entrance from Ronda ONZ and backing onto Mariańska street, has started. The entrance of the building will be connected with an internal passage-way along which there will be a commercial shopping area. Parking will be off Twarda street. Polski Holding Nieruchomości (PHN) has the green light to start work on the 150-meter high tower. The building – PHN Tower – is being built on 0.6 hectares and will total about 45,00 square meters.

ALL IMAGES & PHOTOGRAPHS PRESS MATERIAL

Wallpaper* is publishing a Polska Revealed special, which is also featured in its October 2013 issue. It says this is about celebrating what it calls, “the fearlessly talented [Polish] new wave of local designers operating in the key areas of furniture, fashion, product, glassware and dolls’ houses(!).” It looks, in particular, at the legacy of modernist architecture in Saska Kępa and the design festival in Łódź. “Polish design is now on a roll and very much on our radar,” the website has it. The project was supported by the Adam Mickiewicz Institute, part of the programme aimed at promoting Polish design worldwide.

Employers oznaki seek employees, Pierwsze Pierwsze oznaki poprawy poprawy sytuacji sytuacji employees cannot find a job. Where is the problem? na na polskim polskim rynku rynkupracy pracy Tradycyjnie Tradycyjnie bardziej bardziej ożywiony ożywiony sezon sezon letni ma letni sięma ku się końcowi, ku końcowi, przyniósł przyniósł During the summer, employment increased andrynku this jednakjednak spodziewane spodziewane przejawy przejawy poprawy poprawy nastrojów nastrojów na natrend rynku pracyshould –pracy jak – jak also remain unchanged after the Rynku holiday season. However, according pokazują pokazują wyniki wyniki sondażu sondażu Monitor Monitor Rynku Pracy Instytutu Pracy Instytutu Badawczego Badawczego to the latest survey titledryzyko “Employers’ Plans” carried out częściej by the RandsRandstad Randstad – rzadziej – rzadziej odczuwamy odczuwamy ryzyko utratyutraty pracy oraz pracy częściej oraz tad Research Institute and TNS, a market company, employers możliwość możliwość znalezienia znalezienia nowego nowego zatrudnienia. zatrudnienia. Nieresearch ulega Nie ulega jednak jednak zmianie zmianie do not perceive this situation as an ideal one. Companies trudnatrudna sytuacja sytuacja najmłodszych najmłodszych i najstarszych i najstarszych pracowników. pracowników. Grupywant Grupy te tote employ people every second respondent had difficulty w zmaganiach w zmaganiach namore rynku na rynku pracybut często pracy często podejmują podejmują się prac sięponiżej prac poniżej in finding candidates with the tym required competences. Qualification posiadanych posiadanych kwalifikacji, kwalifikacji, ograniczając ograniczając samym tym samym możliwości możliwości rozwoju rozwoju mismatch hampers company performance as well as durable economic doświadczenia doświadczenia zawodowego. zawodowego. Zdaniem Zdaniem respondentów respondentów punktem punktem recovery, at the samezatrudnienia time negatively affecting the tymczasowa. unemployment startowym startowym dla stałego dla stałego zatrudnienia może być może praca być tymczasowa. praca

WartoWarto zauważyć, zauważyć, że przyżedużym przy dużym poziomie poziomie rotacjirotacji zanotowanej zanotowanej w ostatnim w ostatnim employers – this was thepracowników opiniondo ofposzukiwania as do many as 37% of the respondents. kwartale, kwartale, skłonność skłonność pracowników poszukiwania nowego nowego zatrudnienia zatrudnienia The third factor mentioned related to employers competing jest bardzo jest bardzo stabilna stabilna i niemal i niemal nie(34%) ulega niewas ulega zmianom. zmianom. Odsetek Odsetek Polaków Polaków forposzukujących similar candidates. Also, a high percentage (32%) ofwieku the poszukujących innegoinnego pracodawcy, pracodawcy, niezależnie niezależnie od wieku od i płcirespondents badanych, i płci badanych, mentioned economic migration abroadśredniej as an impediment to finding utrzymuje utrzymuje się na się poziomie na poziomie bliskimbliskim średniej krajów krajów europejskich europejskich (13%proper Polska, (13%candidates. Polska, 12% średnia 12% średnia dla Europy). dla Europy). “Very often we are witnessing a phenomenon of a mismatch between

Doświadczenie Doświadczenie decyduje decyduje na rynku na rynku pracy.pracy. Czy wiek Czy wiek również? również? the candidates’ competences and the employers’ needs. As a result, while some companies struggle with others to win top talents from

Respondenci Respondenci pytanipytani o to, co o ma to, co większe ma większe znaczenie znaczenie podczas podczas poszukiwania poszukiwania very limited resources, immense numbers of job seekers fail to find pracy nie pracy mają niewątpliwości mają wątpliwości - zdecydowana - zdecydowana większość większość (86%) (86%) badanych badanych a job, which in turn translates into a higher unemployment rate. At MniejMniej obaw obaw o utrzymanie o utrzymanie pracypracy i więcej i więcej wiarywiary w możliwość w możliwośćPolaków Polaków uważa,uważa, że doświadczenie że doświadczenie zawodowe zawodowe przeważa przeważa nad wykształcenad wykształcethe same time, many companies adapt to the market conditions and Employment increases, good prospects for the near future niem. niem. Co istotne, Co istotne, w wynikach w wynikach nie widać nie widać wyraźnego wyraźnego zróżnicowania zróżnicowania znalezienia znalezienia nowej the budget limitations by employing less people or candidates whose According tonowej the latest, 19th edition of the “Employers’ Plans” survey w odpowiedziach w odpowiedziach różnych różnych grup wiekowych grup wiekowych – zarówno – zarówno młodzi, młodzi, jak i starsi jak i starsi qualifications are lower than expected. In the long run, however, this carried out by the Randstad Research Institute and TNS, 39% of the wiekiem wiekiem pracownicy pracownicy są tak są samo tak zgodni. samo zgodni. Jak pokazują Jakrespondents pokazują wynikiwyniki ostatniego ostatniego sondażu sondażu Monitor Monitor Rynku Pracy Instytutu Pracy can lead to poorer performance and reduce a company’s potential increased their workforce in the last Rynku half year. It isInstytutu a signifiBadawczego Badawczego Randstad drugie drugie półrocze półrocze rozpoczęło się poprawą się(an poprawą nastrojów nastrojów for growth, while in the current economic situation, marked by a very cantRandstad change when compared torozpoczęło the previous survey increase from Zdaniem Zdaniem badanych, badanych, wiek stanowi wiek stanowi jednakjednak bardzobardzo ważnyważny czynnik czynnik podczas podczas w gronie w gronie badanych Polaków. Nie jest Nie tojest zmiana to zmiana radykalna, radykalna, ale pierwsza ale pierwsza moderate growth, innovations made by companies and their efficiency 27% inbadanych MayPolaków. to 39% at present). During the same period, reductions in poszukiwań poszukiwań pracy, pracy, ponieważ ponieważ kandydaci kandydaci różnych różnych pokoleń, pokoleń, są przez są przez po roku posystematycznie roku systematycznie pogarszających pogarszających się wyników. się wyników. will determine success on the market which boosts economic growth. employment took place in every fifth company (20%), constituting the pracodawców pracodawców różnieróżnie traktowani. traktowani. PonadPonad 4 na 54badanych na 5 badanych w Polsce w Polsce lowest level of declared lay-offs during the last year. The professional selection of adequate specialists is becoming a decisive stwierdziło, że osobom że osobom młodym młodym (poniżej (poniżej 25 roku 25życia) roku jest życia) trudniej jest trudniej na na BadaniBadani pracownicy pracownicy nieco rzadziej nieco rzadziej obawiają obawiają się utraty się utraty pracy. pracy. Choć obawa, Choć obawa,stwierdziło, factor, even if the choice is not easy due to the limited number of rynku rynku pracy, pracy, a ponad a ponad 90% uważa, 90% uważa, że ukończywszy że ukończywszy 55 rok55 życia roktrudniej życia trudniej że ich że bieżąca ich bieżąca umowa umowa zostanie zerwana zerwana lub nieprzedłużona lub nieprzedłużona nadal “Still the majority ofzostanie companies, almost three in every nadal five, do not available candidates with qualifications valued on the market. Our jest znaleźć jest znaleźć pracę.pracę. Co więcej, Co więcej, w opinii w opinii badanych badanych trudnatrudna sytuacja sytuacja na rynku na rynku dotyczy dotyczy blisko blisko coincrease trzeciego co trzeciego (34%),(34%), toduring wynik to wynik ten next plasuje ten plan to or respondenta reducerespondenta their workforce the sixplasuje months. survey expressly demonstrates that the education system for young obu pracygrup obuwiekowych grup wiekowych sprawia, sprawia, że i najmłodsi że i najmłodsi i najstarsi i najstarsi są skłonni są skłonni do do PolskęPolskę naHowever, poziomie na poziomie nieznacznie powyżej powyżej średniej średniej europejskiej europejskiej i znacznie i znaczniepracy 28% of nieznacznie the respondents declared that they plan to increase people and the training system for persons reskilling or extending their zaniżania zaniżania swoichswoich kwalifikacji kwalifikacji dla podjęcia dla podjęcia pracy (odpowiednio pracy (odpowiednio 87% 87% poniżej poniżej krajów krajów o mniej oThis mniej stabilnych stabilnych gospodarkach Grecja jak Grecja (45%), employment. means agospodarkach significant risejak in optimism, by 8(45%), percentage qualifications needs to be better adapted to the requirements of the i 90%).i 90%). Hiszpania Hiszpania (42%) (42%) czy Węgry czy Węgry (40%).(40%). reduction rate.

points, when compared to the May edition of the survey. Also, for a second quarter in a row, the proportion of employers considering a

market. Unemployment will not fall dramatically if candidates do not respond to the employers’ needs. Permanent changes require the launch

Z podkreślaniem istotności istotności doświadczenia doświadczenia zawodowego zawodowego dla budowania dla budowania Pod kątem Podreduction kątem oceny oceny dostępności dostępności ofert pracy ofert Polacy pracy Polacy są 9% obecnie są the obecnie jednym jednymsaid Z podkreślaniem in employment decreased: “Only of respondents of professional consultancy programs offered to young people and karierykariery zawodowej, zawodowej, bardzobardzo spójnaspójna jest opinia jest opinia zdecydowanej zdecydowanej większości większości z najbardziej z najbardziej optymistycznych narodów narodów objętych objętych sondażem. sondażem. W przypadku W przypadku thatoptymistycznych they considered such a possibility,” said Kajetan Słonina, Managing assistance for those seeking employment in reskilling and continuing badanych badanych Polaków Polaków (88%),(88%), że trampoliną że trampoliną do zdobycia do zdobycia stałego stałego zatrudnienia zatrudnienia konieczności konieczności znalezienia nowego pracodawcy w ciągu w nadchodzącego ciągu nadchodzącego Director atznalezienia Randstad, a nowego HRpracodawcy consultancy and temporary work agency. education,” said Kajetan Słonina. może być może dlabyć nich dlazatrudnienie nich zatrudnienie w formule w formule tymczasowej. tymczasowej. Takiego Takiego zdaniazdania półrocza, półrocza, aż 68% ażbadanych 68% badanych ocenia,ocenia, że znajdzie że znajdzie porównywalne porównywalne do do byli zarówno byli zarówno pracownicy pracownicy młodsi,młodsi, jak i starsi, jak i starsi, choć co choć ważne, co ważne, badanibadani obecnego obecnego stanowisko stanowisko w innej wemployment firmie. innej firmie. Pod tym Pod względem tym jedynie The plans to increase within the względem next jedynie six months are The results of the latest survey by the Randstad Research Institute also postrzegali postrzegali pracę tymczasową, pracę tymczasową, jako rozwiązanie jako rozwiązanie raczej raczej dla osób dlamłodych osób młodych Norwegowie Norwegowie przewyższają przewyższają nasexpected w nas swoim w improvement swoim optymizmie. optymizmie. Najniżej Najniżej swoje swoje directly related to the in the economic situation revealed what actions would encourage employers to increase their szanseszanse na znalezienie na znalezienie nowego nowego zatrudnienia zatrudnienia oceniliocenili Hiszpanie Hiszpanie - jedynie - jedynie co co(58%).(58%). in Poland. When compared to the last quarter, the number of companies

workforce. A vast majority of the respondents (83%) said that the reduction in employment costs would produce such results. More than two thirds of the companies (64%) believe that the answer is to provide them with partial funding for training programs in order to better 12% in August 2013). match the candidates’ qualifications with the market needs. A slightly Co bardzo Co bardzo ważne,ważne, odczuwana odczuwana poprawa poprawa nastrojów nastrojów nie dotyczy nie dotyczy wszystkich wszystkich smaller number of employers (60%) indicated partial funding for the “Monitor “Monitor Rynku Pracy”Pracy” jest belonging kwartalnym jest kwartalnym sondażem sondażem realizowanym realizowanym zatrudnionych. zatrudnionych. Wyniki Wyniki badania badania pokazują pokazują znaczący znaczący wzrost wzrost obaw obaw o utratę o utratę Employers seek employees, employees cannot find a job. Where is the employment ofRynku individuals to the groups characterized by 32 krajach w 32 krajach Europy, Europy, Azji, Azji, Australii i obu Ameryk. i obu Ameryk. Sondaż Sondaż jest jest stanowiska stanowiska pracowników pracowników najstarszych najstarszych wiekiem wiekiem – ta grupa – ta grupa zwiększyła zwiększyła się się whigh problem? unemployment rates.Australii przeprowadzany przeprowadzany poprzez poprzez ankiety ankiety on-line on-line w grupie w grupie respondentów respondentów w tymw kwartale tym kwartale o jedną o jedną trzecią trzecią (z 28% (z w 28% II/2013 w II/2013 do 41% do obecnie). 41% obecnie). The results of the “Employers’ Plans” survey demonstrate that the vast w wieku w wieku od 18 od do 18 64 do lat,64 pracujących lat, pracujących minimum minimum 24 godziny 24 godziny Podobnie Podobnie wysokie wysokie sącompanies też są obawy też sought obawy osób najmłodszych, osóbemployees najmłodszych, dopiero dopiero rozpoczynamajority of new during the lastrozpoczynayear w tygodniu (z wykluczeniem (z wykluczeniem osób samozatrudnionych). osób samozatrudnionych). jącychjących swoją swoją karierę karierę zawodową (39%). Ponadto, Ponadto, o ile wemploying oprzypadku ile w przypadku oceny oceny w tygodniu (83%), especially inzawodową the case of(39%). large companies more than About survey: Dobór Dobór próbthe dla prób badanych dla badanych populacji populacji jest przeprowadzany jest przeprowadzany przez przez możliwości możliwości znalezienia znalezienia nowej pracy młodsi pracy młodsi respondenci respondenci badania badania (18-24and (18-24 250 individuals (94%).nowej Most often, employers sought technicians The Employers’ Plansinstytut isSurvey a survey conducted among employers międzynarodowy międzynarodowy instytut Survey Sampling Sampling International. International. Próbaby Próba oraz 25-34 oraz lat) 25-34 sąblue lat) najbardziej są najbardziej optymistyczni, optymistyczni, to najstarsi to najstarsi odpowiadający odpowiadający skilled collar workers (59%), persons performing simple manual the Randstad Research Institute in tocałym check badaniu their opinions w Polsce w Polsce wynosiwynosi 405 respondentów 405 respondentów (worder całym (w badaniu wzięło wzięło udziałudział w badaniu w badaniu Polacy Polacy mieli blisko mieli blisko dwukrotnie dwukrotnie gorsze gorsze oceny oceny (odpowiednio (odpowiednio work (49%) and graduate specialists (48%). on key areas of their business. The questions are addressed

trzeci badany trzeci badany ocenia, ocenia, że będzie żegrowth będzie mógłhas znaleźć mógł znaleźć porównywalną porównywalną nową nową pracę pracę predicting economic risen significantly (25% at present (34%).(34%). Wecompared wszystkich We wszystkich krajach europejskich europejskich łącznie, łącznie, odpowiedzi odpowiedzi takiej takiej to 14% inkrajach May 2013). Also, a substantially lower percentage udzielała udzielała cothe druga co druga osoba osoba (51%). (51%). of respondents expect a recession (a decrease from 20% in May to

78% wobec 78% wobec 42% dla 42% porównywalnej dla porównywalnej pracy).pracy).

However, as the results of the survey show, almost half of the respondents had difficulty in finding adequately qualified candidates, meaning Wysoki Wysoki poziom poziom rotacji rotacji związanych związanych ze zmianami ze zmianami problems with hiring the planned number of people. One quarter (25%) strukturalnymi strukturalnymi of the respondents hired less people than originally intended, while one fifth (20%) hired asostatnim many people aspółroczu intended, but were WynikiWyniki badania badania pokazują, pokazują, że w że w ostatnim półroczu co czwarty co czwarty (25%)forced (25%)to lower their requirements as regards the competences. Two polski polski respondent respondent zmienił zmienił pracodawcę. pracodawcę. Po trzech Pocandidates’ trzech kwartałach kwartałach ze średnią ze średnią respondents inbliską every europejskiej hundred failed to to filljest anyto ofbardzo their dynamiką dynamiką zmianzmian bliską europejskiej (16%) (16%) jest bardzo dużavacancies. zmiana duża zmiana

oraz najwyższy oraz najwyższy obecnie obecnie rezultat rezultat pośródpośród badanych badanych krajówkrajów naszego naszego Why a half of employers successful atzmiany finding proper kontynentu kontynentu w are tymonly w okresie. tym okresie. Główną Główną przyczyną przyczyną zmiany pracy przez pracy przez candidates? Two thirds the respondents (66%) blamewarunków a mismatch biorących biorących udziałudział w badaniu w badaniu byłoofposzukiwanie było poszukiwanie lepszych lepszych warunków between the competences thezcandidates and the expectations zatrudnienia zatrudnienia (35%). (35%). Zaraz za Zaraz nim, zazof nim, niemal niemal identycznym identycznym wpływem wpływemof the employers for such difficulties. The second, most often mentioned - zmiany - zmiany w strukturze w strukturze firmy, firmy, których których znaczenie znaczenie od roku od systematycznie roku systematycznie reason forobecnie, the existing problems, is non-competitive salaries offered by rośnierośnie (34% obecnie, (34% 22% w22% maju w2012). maju 2012).

w tej fali w tej 13.967 fali 13.967 osób).osób).

directly to the HR representatives (in small companies: management board members or company owners). The survey is carried out by TNS experts on a representative sample of 300 companies in view of their size and location. Interviews for the current 19th edition were held between 9 and 20 August 2013.

Contact: Contact: Randstad Randstad Polska Polska sp. zsp. o.o.z o.o. Al.Contact: Jerozolimskie Al. Jerozolimskie 56c 00-803 56c 00-803 Warszawa Warszawa Randstad Polska sp. firma@pl.randstad.com z o.o. tel.: 22 tel.:462 22 25 462 00, 25firma@pl.randstad.com 00, Al. Jerozolimskie 56c 00-803 Warszawa www.randstad.pl/pracodawca www.randstad.pl/pracodawca tel.: 22 462 25 00, firma@pl.randstad.com www.randstad.pl/pracodawca

PHOTOGRAPH FROM PAP

HISTORIC CENTER RECONSTRUCTION

WARSAW INSIDER | OCTOBER 2013

The Comeback Kid

Reduced to ashes and dust by the end of the war, the story of Warsaw’s Old Town could easily have been portrayed as one of tragedy. Instead, it is the reverse: the remarkable tale of an indomitable city that never gave up… BY ALEX WEBBER

“I

have seen many cities destroyed, but nowhere have I been faced with such destruction.” So spoke General Eisenhower whilst touring the ruins of Warsaw at the end of the war. Clearly, this wasn’t just lip service he was paying. Even by their own dark standards, the Nazis had surpassed themselves in their treatment of the city. Already scarred by the Blitzkrieg of 1939, further devastation was visited on Warsaw as a result of the bitter house-to-house combat that defined the 1944 Uprising. The 63 day battle left a brutal legacy: 250,000 people dead, and a city bashed and battered by the savagery of the fighting. Incredibly, Warsaw’s story was to get a whole lot worse. The Uprising had infuriated Nazi high command and had left Hitler raging. When news of the insurrection reached Fuhrer HQ Hitler’s faithful little pet, Heinrich Himmler, promised to use the Uprising as an excuse to wipe Warsaw out once and for all. And so, once the Poles had signed the capitulation papers, the local population was exiled and Nazi demolition squads moved in to methodically erase Warsaw from the map. Himmler had ordered for “every single house to be blown up and burned,” and by the time Soviet forces marched into Warsaw in January 1945 the scene was one of utter annihilation: 85% of the capital lay in total ruin. In today’s terms, estimated total damage stood at a staggering US$ 54.6 billion. It’s hard to fathom the sheer scale of the devastation. Such was its severity plans were mooted to shift the capital permanently to Łódź; to leave Warsaw as a windblown heap of bricks – a permanent memorial to the vagaries of war. For the communists, though, the opportunity to rebuild Warsaw as a model socialist city was too good to refuse. The question was, how? Much of Warsaw’s pre-war architecture was deemed by authorities as too ‘capitalistic’, too bourgeois. As such, the tall 19th century tenements that had lent Warsaw its romantic silhouette were replaced, instead, by blockish estates and concrete carbuncles. What had been known as the Paris of the East became Paris of the Beast. But not all of Warsaw was given the Everyman treatment. In spite of some arguing for Old Town to be turned into an anonymous housing district (other concepts included transforming it into a park ringed by war rubble), the communist party identified the value of rebuilding it from scratch. “The rebuilding of Warsaw was an act of national defiance,” wrote historian Norman Davies, and the reconstruction of Old Town “was shrewdly designed to establish the patriotic credentials of the post-war order.” And yes, the impact on national morale cannot be understated: the drive to rebuild the historic core was considered a triumph of human will – not just domestically, but internationally. Henry N. Cobb, an American student who visited Poland in 1947 and photographed his findings was moved to write:

“although I had seen some pictures of Warsaw in ruins, they did not prepare me for the reality that I encountered. The Warsaw portrayed in my photographs was, I still vividly recall, more than a devastated capital city: it was a stage on which, against all odds, a thrilling human drama of recovery and reconstruction was being played out.”

ith the exception of the site of the former Jewish Ghetto – razed in wake of the 1943 Jewish Uprising – no other area suffered as much destruction as Old Town: of its 260 burgher houses, only the skeletons of six survived the war. The task in hand was not going to be simple, and was further complicated by interfering authorities. Indeed, it was because of busybody communists that the old town wasn’t restored as faithfully as it could have been. Pre-war photographs of the district were numerous, whilst during the occupation activists and architects maintained an exhaustive and extensive inventory of the city’s architecture lest carnage ensue. Even so, when it came to rebuilding Old Town these documents and photographs were largely overlooked by the planning committee in favor of twenty or so vedute authored by Bernardo Bellotto. To assuage public opinion, the excuse cited for this move was the fact that Bellotto had been the official court painter of Poland’s last King – Stanisław August Poniatowski. However, the flaws in using Bellotto’s works as a blueprint were latent. While hugely talented and famed for his intricately detailed scenes, Bellotto was notorious as a bit of a Billy Bullsh*tter. If he didn’t like something, he didn’t paint it. Instead, he’d add in things that weren’t there. His paintings were prone to exaggeration and plagued by factual inconsistencies: amazingly, these flights of fancy all made the final cut during the reconstruction process.

“ While hugely talented and famed for his intricately detailed scenes, Bellotto was notorious as a bit of a Billy Bullsh*tter” But just why did authorities reject more authoritative sources and back Bellotto instead? The answer is perhaps best explained in Rafał Muranowski’s magnificent essay exploring the relationship between political ideology and Warsaw’s Old Town: “Bellotto’s paintings were thought to capture the spirit of an epoch instantiated by the artistic patronage of the King, a figurehead of the so-called Polish Enlightenment, an era with which the nascent PRL seemed to identify. Bellotto’s paintings, with their depictions of magnificent palaces rising from the midst of shabby wooden huts, were thought to encapsulate the optimistic spirit of a young and virile Warsaw, as yet un-ravaged by the facebook.com/warsawinsider

HISTORIC CENTER RECONSTRUCTION excesses of untrammeled capitalism.” While the decision to rebuild Old Town was only officially rubber stamped in 1949, the necessary mechanisms essential to its rebirth were already locked into place. On February 14th, 1945, the Warsaw Reconstruction Office came into being, with the Department of Architectural Heritage established within its framework. Bossed jointly by Piotr Biegański and Jan Zachwatowicz, the two undertook a hefty project to list, categorize and preserve masonry that had survived intact – as a result, about 15% of today’s Stare Miasto is comprised of original Gothic and Renaissance fabric. The work of the pair was also substantially aided by the enthusiasm of private homeowners who, as yet, had not had their homes appropriated by the government. It was on private initiative that the dwelling at Nowomiejska 10 became, in 1947, the first old town property to be completely rebuilt. At this stage, Old Town’s resurrection was still the subject of heated debate. According to one anecdote, what remained of the east side of the main market square was slated for demolition, allowing for unimpeded views of the river. On hearing this Zachwatowicz ordered workers to reconstruct the burgher houses, and pronto. His hunch that the nabobs and decision makers wouldn’t want to offend the public by dismantling the finished article proved bang on. While visiting the Rynek, party leader Bołesław Bierut declared, “we cannot knock down what the working class have built.” That was in 1949, the same year Phase 1 of the reconstruction was initiated. The plan involved the restoration of the Rynek, as well as connecting streets such as Piwna and Zapiecek. The work was meticulous and backbreaking: the removal of 500,000 cubic meters of rubble was conducted via hods and wheelbarrows, horse-drawn wagons, and a mini rail line. The eventual arrival of a crane constituted headline news. To meet the demands of the reconstruction, plaster was imported from the Soviet Union, and gold leaf from the Czechoslovakia; at one stage, one million bricks were arriving daily from Wrocław. Finally, on July 22nd, 1953, the first stage was complete. Whilst Old Town Redux didn’t necessarily correspond with

the Old Town remembered by the natives, this wasn’t solely the fault of Bellotto’s embellishments. Some details were added on a whim: for instance, the doorway of Piwna 6 was accessorized with a flock of stone pigeons. These were appended in memory of a reclusive ‘pigeon lady’ who, in the immediate aftermath of the war, lived in the ruins and fed the birds. Other changes were more practical: streets were widened, and in some cases, buildings were reduced in height. Of these ‘corrections’, perhaps the most palpable was the creation of the Trasa W-Z – a highway cutting below Old Town and connecting west Warsaw with Praga. The tunnel that rumbles below pl. Zamkowy was unveiled in 1949, and with it, Poland’s first escalator. Depositing its human cargo on the doorstep of Zygmunt’s Column, the ‘moving stairs’ really captured local imagination when they were first opened: photographs preserved from the launch day show a football-like crowd swaying and surging with wonder and glee. To this day, the escalator remains a quirky curiosity – check out the Socialist Realist reliefs lauding Soviet/ Polish comradeship, not to mention a quaint set of rules forbidding kids from riding repeatedly up and down.

he political ping pong that followed Stalin’s death threw the reconstruction into chaos – other projects were prioritized, and work on Stare Miasto continued intermittently (the Royal Castle, would you believe, was only reopened as recently as 1984). Nonetheless, the sweat and the tears paid off in 1980 when Old Town was inducted onto the World Heritage List, with UNESCO officials citing it as, “an exceptional example of the global reconstruction of a sequence of history running from the 13th to 20th centuries.” Others have not been so generous in their praise, with historian Marta Leśniakowska dismissing it as a “pseudo historical nature reserve.” Yet while the area undoubtedly has a contrived, Euro Disney air, it’s impossible not to admire the sheer bloody mindedness that led to its (re)creation. Without it, Warsaw would not be Warsaw. Yes it’s a fake, yes it’s a film set, but Stare Miasto is also an unyielding statement of Warsaw’s indomitable spirit.

WE WELCOME YOU TO BISTRO WARSZAWA FOR DELICIOUS MEALS AND LIVE CONCERTS Old Town Square 1/3 tel. +48 (22) 635 37 69 mobile + 48 501 438 007 bistro@bistrowarszawa.pl www.bistrowarszawa.pl

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HISTORIC CENTER HIDDEN SECRETS

OFF THE WALL

Warsaw’s historic center is the city’s calling card, and bungling, bumbling tour groups are the dominant force. Can’t they look where they’re going, you’re sometimes moved to ask. In a word, the answer is no. And they’ve got a very good point, for it’s up above on the walls that the area really speaks: through friezes and reliefs, gargoyles and murals... PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

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HISTORIC CENTER LEGENDS

THE LEGENDS of Old Town

Warsaw’s historic center is wrapped in legend and lore; from the wistful and sad to silly and absurd, we examine the best. BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

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“ Pan Twardowski, meanwhile, apparently ended up banished to the moon along with his sidekick – a bloke he once turned into a spider” THE MERMAID

Warsaw’s iconic mermaid (syrenka) has been displayed on the city’s coat of arms since 1390, and her story varies according to the source. The most commonplace tale, however, asserts she’s a twin born in the Baltic. Her sister ended up in Denmark (yes, that mermaid), while our one flipped her way down the Wisła before ending up on the banks by the old town. The local fishermen, peeved by their tangled nets and missing catches, decided to catch the perp who, as it turned out, was this little lovely. Plans to teach her a lesson though went out the window the moment they heard her swooning singing voice. But news of this talented chanteuse traveled fast, and she was abducted by a nasty piece of work who imprisoned her in a shed and made her sing for her supper. Her fan base, mind you, heard her distant wailing and hatched a plan to free her. In gratitude, she promised to protect the city whenever it was in trouble (hence the sword and shield). Tributes to this heroine are numerous, and include a statue in the center of the Rynek. Konstanty Hegel’s 1855 original has not fared well. Destroyed and relocated countless times (hence her nickname: the walking statue), what you see in the center is a clone constructed in 2008 (find Version 1.0 in the Historical Museum). A second mermaid, on Wybrzeże Koścuiszkowskie, was modeled in the inter-war years on Krystyna Krahelska. The tragic poetress served as a nurse during the Uprising, and died on the second day of combat. Of course, there’s numerous other mermaids you’ll spy around town: not least one made of recycled junk outside the Palace of Culture. One you won’t be seeing, though, is the one sketched by Picasso. During his 1948 trip to Wa-wa, the artist extraordinaire was taken on a tour of a housing estate in Koło inspired by the works of Le Corbusier. Impressed by what he saw, he climbed a workman’s ladder and sketched a giant mermaid: “My God it was huge,” gushed one report from the time, “her bosoms were like two balloons.” Alas, after the housing project was completed, the owner of the flat soon tired of art fans rattling on his door so… he hired a handy man who obliterated all trace. Doh!

THE BASILISK

If there’s one thing horror films have taught us it’s for Pete’s sake, stay out of the cellar! That’s something you’d have done particularly well to remember back in the old days, when an ugly basilisk stalked the catacombs of Krzywe Koło. To cut a long legend short, a group of children ignored warnings about the beast and decided to nip into the cellars to find the treasure it guarded. Alarmed by their disappearance, a tailor went after the kids armed with a mirror. On hearing the monster approaching, our hero shined his chosen weapon in its face, and the basilisk – aghast at his own hideous form – was turned to stone. Now,

you’ll find a few basilisks sprinkled round town – not least at one of his old hunting grounds: Bazyliszek restaurant at Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3.

THE HAUNTING

For the tourists, the building on the corner of Świętojańska 2 is something of natural gateway to the old town beyond. For the locals though, it’s something more. Something worse. It’s here Prince Stanisław passed away on August 8th, 1524. A keen booze hound and notorious party animal, many speculated he was simply a casualty of a rock’n’roll life. Others though, smelt a rat, suggesting he’d been poisoned by the scheming Queen Bona. With intrigue and hearsay swirling around, his cooks met a messy end, tortured to death to appease the masses. Since then the building has reputedly witnessed several unexplainable phenomena: shifting furniture, pounding on the windows and whispered conversations held in archaic Polish and creepy Latin verse.

THE ROYALS

Warsaw’s Royal Castle rarely gets mentioned in terms of spooky ghostly happenings, though some maintain that you’ll certainly find them. King Zygmunt II, distraught at the loss of his wife, allegedly hired a sorcerer named Pan Twardowski to speak to his departed. This was achieved by use of a magical mirror, and today some state you’ll find the ghostly apparition of Queen Barbara stalking the grounds. Frankly, though, the story isn’t convincing: contradictory reports claim all these shenanigans actually took place in Kraków’s Wawel Castle. Pan Twardowski, meanwhile, apparently ended up banished to the moon along with his sidekick – a bloke he once turned into a spider. Outside the castle, you’ll find another Zygmunt – Zygmunt III stands atop of a 22 meter column, and the sword he wields is symbolic of bravery: should it fall, then the people of Warsaw can expect a lot of trouble. And, not far away, trek down the cobbles to the Jesuit monastery next to St. John’s Cathedral. It’s here you’ll find a stone bear. So legend has it, it’s actually a Mazovian prince! Generous, well regarded and an all-round good egg, this prince had one shortcoming: he was rather unsightly. Cruelly nicknamed Prince Bear on account of hefty shape, he became besotted with a young beautiful damsel. Plucking up the courage to ask her on a date, he acquired some flowers and then went to the church he knew she frequented. But, to his shock, she emerged from it dressed in wedding day finery. Dazed and dismayed, he threw down the flowers and burst into tears. But that’s just the beginning. Before long passersby started fleeing in terror – the heartbroken prince had morphed into a bear! Shedding one final tear, he hung his head and then turned to stone. So it’s said, he’ll resume his real form when he finds love once more. Ladies, over to you. facebook.com/warsawinsider

OUT OF TOWN PODKOWA LEŚNA

Back to the Future

Built less than 100 years ago as Poland’s first garden city, the very concept of Podkowa Leśna was seen as futuristic at the time. Today, hidden in a wooded valley, it represents a secret sanctuary from the big city bedlam... BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

et about 30 kilometers south west of Warsaw, the small town of Podkowa Leśna is one of the great nuggets of Mazovia, and an inside secret if ever there was: be truthful, hands up if you’ve ever heard of it. Once a vast hunting estate belonging to Duke Michał Radziwiłł, the grounds were parceled off at the start of the 20th century, and plans were mooted for the creation of Poland’s first ‘garden city’. These became reality in the inter-bellum: created to a radial street plan envisioned by Englishman Ebenezer Howard, Podkowa Leśna (Horseshoe Grove) became a bucolic haven away from boomtown Warsaw, and almost symbolic of the golden years of The Second Republic of Poland. While it was hit by a few stray bombs from the Luftwaffe, the Nazi invasion largely bypassed Podkowa, and it remained undestroyed by the armies that were to spend the next six years rolling through Poland. And thank goodness for that. While Warsaw was flattened, Podkowa’s linden lined avenues survived. So too did its remarkable architecture:

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and there’s no better time to see it than now. Whether they’re viewed through a soupy October mist, or in the golden glow of Autumn, the villas of Podkowa are extraordinary – rambling country residences that cover all schools of style: from faux fortresses with turrets and towers, to elegant mansions for the manor born; then, interspersed between them, are functionalist ivy-clad villas of the inter war, and cutting edge designs almost sci-fi in shape. This isn’t Millionaires Row, this is Petro Mega Millions Row. Named after animals (North East Podkowa), trees (South East), birds (North West) and flowers (South West), the streets of this 4,000 strong settlement make for a compelling walk – not least if you spot some of the strange wildlife that allegedly lurks in the park. Lone bison are said to emerge dopily from the woods; recently, a privately-owned camel was seen strolling around. And there’s more. If the local guidebook is to be taken at face value, visitors should also look for the mysterious canis familiaris podkoviensis: a corgi-like dog apparently unique to the area. Are these tall tales the fumes of fancy? Maybe so. After all, some natives

CLOCKWISE FROM BELOW: creepy confessional box in St. Christopher’s; Stawisko, now a musty museum; the tree-lined avenues of Podkowa define the town; The Glass House, former home of Irena Krzywicka.

claim to be able to see the Tatra Mountains from the birdseye lookout that crowns the park’s intricate ‘Casino’. Be that as it may, Podkowa Leśna is awash with surprises. A network of walking trails take outdoorsy types past the town’s highlights: for instance, The Glass House (Sosnowa 9) is where famed feminist and author Irena Krzywicka once lived. But, short of burglary, to see what lies inside Podkowa’s gracious dwellings one must visit Stawisko (Gołębia 1). Completed in 1928, this stately home was the seat of Anna and Jarosław Iwaszkiewicz. Now a museum, the creaking mansion has been preserved as a tribute to this cult writer’s life. Gnarled hunting trophies stare dead-eyed from the stairwell, and rooms come filled with dusty swag – first editions of the Polish dictionary, paintings (including a family portrait composed by Witkacy), and family photo albums (local hunting expeditions, early 20th century explorations of Egypt, etc.). In wartime, Stawisko was refuge for Warsaw’s intelligentsia, while in the post-war Iwaszkiewicz (allowed to keep his home after some dastardly double dealing with the communists), entertained visitors of rank and privilege: the Queen of Belgium, pianist Artur Rubinstein... You can feel the weight of history in the thick, musky air.

ut it is St. Christopher’s Church, named after the patron saint of travelers following extensive funding from the Polish Automobile Club, that is recognized as the town’s central element. Unveiled in 1933, the black marble altar was constructed from material salvaged

from Warsaw’s onion domed Tsarist Cathedral after it was stripped and dynamited in the 1920s. Built as a ‘garden church’, it’s a curious affair, with ponds, waterfalls, ducks and a Chinese-style cage filled with Mohican-topped birds. You half anticipate seeing a collection of gnomes. Instead, quirks are contained to a confessional booth built into a tree trunk, and a couple of cats snoring in the bible garden. There is, however, a serious side to the grounds, and that includes a number of plaques to events such as Katyń. Revealed in 1986, there’s also the Soviet Bloc’s first plaque commemorating the anti-communist Hungarian Uprising in 1956. This improbable link with Hungary actually dates from the war, and manifests itself in the form of a memorial on ul. Akacjowa. Celebrating Polish-Hungarian friendship, this simple stone monument honors the 100 strong Hungarian garrison posted here by the Germans during the time of the Warsaw Uprising. Rather than joining the rampant butchery, the Hungarians kept a low profile, and displayed more interest in befriending the locals than shooting them. But the story isn’t without tragedy. Three Hungarian soldiers caught collaborating with the Polish Home Army were executed on September 5th, 1944, and are now interred in the cemetery found between ul. Brwinowska and Główna. The cemetery is not just worth visiting for these three graves. Pinned in by a narrow river on one side, and a steep forest on the other, it’s an explosion of autumn color with intricate graves set amid thick undergrowth and elaborate arrangements of vibrant flowers. It feels melancholy, serene and far removed from the real world outside. Squelching facebook.com/warsawinsider

OUT OF TOWN PODKOWA LEŚNA across soggy leaves and springy vegetation, one gets the sensation of time standing still. With body and soul thoroughly cleansed by the clear country air, it’s time to consider food. There are two ways to eat in Podkowa: very badly and very well. To sample the former, look no further than Biały Dworek (Gołębia 39), a macabre looking restaurant whose charms don’t extend beyond the stale scent of 1992. As for the food, it sets a new, dismal low for national cuisine: if ever there was a challenge for Kitchen Nightmares, here it is. But there is a flipside to the coin, and that arrives in the unlikely form of a warehouse – such is Wine Depot’s reputation (Nadaryńska 4), people travel from Warsaw to peruse their exhaustive stock of New World wines. But it’s not just about wine – the Argentine grill brings meat lovers one step closer to heaven, with Angus and Hereford cows cooked with such talent you genuinely question if this is Poland’s best steak. Having eaten lavishly and made copious toasts, one leaves Podkowo with something of an inner glow. You make mental notes to check out property here once you get back online. You want to return, and you want to do so permanently. Yet this should not signal the end of your trip. If you’re traveling by car, then set aside time for the nearby Car Museum next door in Otrębusy. From the main road it appears like a junkyard; a cemetery of rust and a tangle of exhaust pipes. But do make the stop – it’s a thrilling little museum, and not just for car nerds. Having resisted the chance to climb onboard JPII’s Pope Mobile out front, visitors pay a modest

WARSAW INSIDER | OCTOBER 2013

entrance fee before edging into a shadowy garage complex filled with vehicles of every description: Lech Wałesa’s Volvo (with 7cm bullet-proof windows), Gomułka’s ZIS limo, German wartime armor and a pretty-in-pink Buick Skylark – the type, so informs the sign, favored by Elvis and Marilyn. It’s incredible in its peculiarity, with the random layout, oily smells and dark, cobwebbed corners only adding to the sense of treading somewhere special. And having visited somewhere special, why not make a night of it and stay somewhere special? Found in the town of Michałowice, the Hotel Venecia (hotelveneciapalace.pl ) is a candidate for Poland’s most hilarious hotel; on sighting it, you shake the head, rub the eyes and then repeat the process a couple of times. You’re definitely awake, but who spiked your drink? And where’s Liberace? Designed in true Vegas style, the hotel is a feast of high kitsch: Roman statues, stone lions, cannons, and Doric columns supporting a palatial exterior: seeing is believing. It won’t be the best hotel you’ve stayed in, but it will be one of the more memorable.

GETTING THERE

By train, Podkowa Leśna is a simple 45 minute trip from Dworzec Centralna. Trains depart every 30 mins and Podkowa Leśna Główny is bang in the center. By car, you don’t even really need GPS – just drive in a South Easterly direction for 30 or so minutes – past Ursus, past Pruszków. You’ll be there in a flash.

PARMIZZANO’S – LITTLE ITALY IN WARSAW 45-minutowy lunch od poniedzia³ku do pi¹tku w godzinach 12:00-15:00 2 dania w cenie 55 PLN, 3 dania w cenie 65 PLN. Codziennie nowe menu. 45-minute lunch from Monday to Friday 12:00 AM-3:00 PM 2 courses at 55 PLN, 3 courses at 65 PLN. New menu everyday.

WARSAW MARRIOTT HOTEL Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 00-697 Warszawa Rezerwacje/Reservations: +48 22 630 5096 www.warsawmarriott.com, www.warsawmarriott.pl

Wilanów

NEIGHBORHOOD

Those new to Warsaw can get used to hearing a lot about Wilanów. Though primarily famed for its palace and spectacular church, this is not just a district stuck in the past – recent expansion has been conducted at a meteoric rate, with swathes of new developments attracting a young, well-off crowd.

Insider Pick

egardless of the youthish, yachtie feel of New Wilanów (Ralph Lauren, Porsche, job in finance sector: mandatory), the area will always be synonymous with one thing and one thing alone: its palace. Affirming that Wilanów has always been the haunt of choice for the rich and even richer is this extraordinary landmark, a baroque masterpiece commonly lauded by Poles as the Polish Versailles.

Completed at the end of the 17th century for King Jan III Sobieski – a man noted for saving Europe from Ottoman invasion at the 1683 Battle of Vienna – it’s emphatic in splendor and monarchial bling. Today its vast halls and indulgent chambers represent one of the big draws of tourist Poland at least, that is, if you prefer more traditional sightseeing as opposed to the computerized, interactive adventures now hawked by many. On the contrary, Wilanów is a solemn, almost reverential experience. The exhibition is divided into two parts, with the first comprising of The Polish Portrait Gallery. Kicking off with some creepy coffin portraits (painted onto coffins so deceased nobility could observe their own wake), in truth the portrait section is possibly of least interest. Part Two of the tour takes visitors on a winding safari of the rest of the palace – upstairs, then back down again – where points of interest come thick and fast. The elegant Raspberry Parlor is where the communists would house important visitors (Jimmy Carter, for instance), while the Etruscan Parlor houses a collection of booty dating back to 800BC. While the former living quarters are in themselves a source of fascination, the thrill of Wilanów lies in its details: a revolving mirror possibly used by peeping Tom’s (!); a grand looking funnel used in the 18th century for cleaning ears; a carafe specially designed so those drinking from it would down the wine in one; not to mention two ‘Chinese frogs’ used as spittoons. Some of the curiosities are hilarious, others a plain mystery: e.g. a bathroom device which for a long time was thought to be used to unbutton shoes – a claim now disproved. As impressive as the still life’s and urns may be, it’s the little treasures that doth make the palace. Wilanów Palace ul. Potockiego 10/16, www.wilanow-palac.pl

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NEIGHBORHOOD DRINK & DINE Basico ul. Branickiego 11, tel. 22 115 0505, www. basico.pl. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00. For a while the Miasteczko Wilanów development was assuming the look of a white elephant. This summer though has marked a fresh start, and among the successes has been the opening of Basico. Airy and spacious the mood is light and modern, the food, meanwhile, isn’t over-complicated. It’s simple, fresh and truthful to Italian standards. It’s regularly full and you won’t hear a word of complaint. Bistecca Bistro ul. Branickiego 11, tel. 22 258 1243, www.bistecca.pl. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00. It happened so suddenly. Warsaw went from meat loser to meat lover in the space of a year. Bistecca, opened over 2 years ago, was one of the early pioneers, and to date remains one of the best. That people travel from well

outside Wilanów to sample its delights speaks volumes. Pride of place goes to their signature Bistecca steak: a one kilo T-Bone shaped joint with strip steak on one side and tenderloin on the other. For the thrill of DIY tableside cooking, order one of their ‘various kinds of meat grilled over volcanic stone’. Castello ul. Wiertnicza 96, tel. 22 885 7505, www. castello.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Castello belongs to a select band of restaurants that are better known for their outrageous architecture than anything else. And yes, this place is a head turner. Decorated with a wooden ‘castle tower’, it’s a miracle that this adventurous piece of design hasn’t caused any traffic accidents. Increasingly passé in an area swelled by contemporary Italian food, it’s by no means a catastrophe; you’ll just find better elsewhere. China Garden ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 241 1010, www.chinagarden.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00. Bull’s testicles boiled with soy sprouts. Goose jaws.

ul. Branickiego 9 lok.158 tel. 22 404 13 33 www.fornello.pl Mon-Thur 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-21:00

ul. Przyczółkowa 400 tel. 888 723 723 www.tasteburger.pl, kontakt@tasteburger.pl Open every day: 12:00 - 22:00

Stewed bull’s penis with radish. Ah, these are meals for the brave. Allegedly the first Jiangsu restaurant in Warsaw, the tastes here are indeed unique. The China Garden isn’t the Imperial Palace, but the décor of straightbacked chairs and densely constructed wood tables casts an aura of formality. No lounging about here; serious eating is afoot! On the whole the dishes are delicate and delicious, and there are more cautious choices. Il Fornello ul. Branickiego 9, tel. 22 404 1333, www. fornello.pl. Open 11:00-22:00. Situated on Wilanów’s new restaurant strip, Il Fornello is a little less showy in its offer than its competitors, trotting out a rather standard series of Italian staples. Not that this should be construed as criticism: there’s no reason for needless overkill here, instead the chef settles for doing the basics and doing them well – nothing complicated and no surprises, just very decent food in a calm white interior that alludes to an Italian country cottage. Mała Czarna ul. Klimczaka 5, tel. 22 403 5077, www. malaczarnacafe.pl. Open 10:00-22:00. A cool little café bar, Mała Czarna start the day with breakfast and the best coffee in the area, before moving on to their other function – as a bar. Yes, a bar in Wilanów. And unlike the competition, the emphasis isn’t on wine, but whisky. There’s approximately 100 here, with Scotland having the heaviest presence. Nowa Kuźnia ul. Kostki Potockiego 24, tel. 794 126 019, www.nowakuznia.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. A mere step from Wilanów’s 18th century church, this onetime blacksmith passes muster for excellent steaks and fresh salads practically plucked from a garden. The summer terrace is magical, and the place even touts a faux beach complete with diggers and slides for the kids. But beware the mosquitoes – they’re nasty buggers out here. Ohh Sushi! ul. Wiertnicza 102, tel. 22 642 16 18, www. ohhsushi.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. Operating since 1998, Ohh Sushi is categorized as one of Warsaw’s original Japanese joints. Opened long before the popularization of sushi, this veteran saw the boom, survived the crash and never broke sweat. Let their longevity speak for itself. Spoco Loco ul. Sarmacka 10, tel. 887 447 447, www.spoco-

WARSAW INSIDER | OCTOBER 2013

loco.pl. Open 11:00-21:00. It begins with a bead of sweat. Then a couple of tears. Then the real pain begins and doesn’t retreat until you’ve rolled on the floor and died for twenty minutes. Spoco Loco’s No. 7 sauce is no laughing matter, and should be treated with serious respect. But this causal eatery is not founded on gimmicks. The burritos and quesadillas are the real deal, and ably supported by a choice of milder sauces that don’t require Red Cross treatment.

tablecloths announce this as the most formal of Wilanów’s restaurants, and ensure casual diners generally give it a miss. That’s a shame: the dishes are modern updates on classic Polish, and genuinely lauded by all those who try. Wine O’Clock ul. Hlonda 2, tel. 505 913 692. Open Mon-Fri 15:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00. Let the

peasants in the center have their lager, Wilanów is about wine. This latest wine bar / shop comes with the requisite wood fitting and boxes of stock lying about, as well as more unexpected touches. In keeping with the young, upwardly spirit of the area, the featured wines lean towards emerging producers from the New World. Found on the deck floor of an upmarket residential block, the crowd is typically yachtie/casual.

Taste Burger ul. Przyczolkowa 400, tel. 888 723 723, www.tasteburger.pl. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00. Warsaw’s expanding burger culture breaches the borders of Wilanów with the opening of Taste Burger, a casual eatery with a neighborhood buzz – local twenty something’s sink into deckchairs while taking subtle tactical bites on such standouts as the shrimp burger. Taste Wilanów ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 400 1122, www. taste.pl. Open daily 11:30-22:30. To leave a restaurant fortified is to be expected; to leave delighted is the mark of quality. With a clever L-shaped interior, a natural terrace and a gleaming white ceramic kitchen it looks good, but it’s the food that earns the plaudits. Dominik Moskalenko, the executive chef who cut his teeth on Amber Room has been a central part of this creation from the beginning and the fruits of his labor are mouth-watering. Fish sit prominently on his menu and account for an astonishing 60% of sales. And rightly so: they’re phenomenal. Vilano ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 253 8860, www. vilano.pl. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00. Sometimes you ask yourself how many Italian restaurants the area needs. The answer is neither here nor there, because it’s because of the competition that the standards are so high. Vilano joins the list of Italian winners, with its busy open kitchen offering gorgeous tagliatelle and pizza that’s so good it’s almost worth moving to Wilanów for that reason alone. Villa Nuova ul. Stanisława K. Potockiego 23, tel. 22 885 1502, villanuova.pl. A sumptuous restaurant set inside a wedding cake manor house: with its immaculate lawns and refined interiors it’s no surprise to find this a favorite for wedding celebrations. Chandeliers, glinting tableware and pristine

ul. Kazachska 1 tel. 22 400 1122 www.taste.pl, rezerwacja@taste.pl Open everyday from 11:30-22:00

ul. Adama Branickiego 11 tel. 22 115 0505 www.basico.pl Sun-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00

ul. Adama Branickiego 11 tel. 22 258 1243 www.bistecca.pl Sun-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00

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FOODIE NEWS A collaboration between two of Warsaw’s best known restaurant blogs (restaurantica.pl and froblog.pl), Warsaw Foodie has emerged as the No. 1 site for local food related stories. Featuring all the latest from the foodie frontline, the bilingual Warsaw Foodie promises the hottest news on what’s trending on the restaurant radar. For more info, check: www.warsawfoodie.pl/en Meringue at Porto Praga

Never Say Thai

Following the closure of Sunanta on Krucza, Bangkok chef Chanunkan Duangkumma makes a quick return to the restaurant biz with the opening of Naam Thai on Saska 16. Among the traditional favorites, look for the roast duck soup – made to a secret family recipe provided by the chef’s uncle!

Five of the Best: Meringues Różana One of the keynote Warsaw venues for meringue, Różana (Chocimska 7) have been an open meringue secret for years. Available through the years, the dessert comes in varying styles: classic, chocolate, coffee, seasonal fruit, etc. Kubek w Kubek Baked by Dagmara, the enigma behind the Z Piekarnika blog, the quality of the ingredients is meticulous: real butter, free range eggs, vanilla and seasonal fruits. Of the choices in Kubek w Kubek (Grażyny 16), the mascarpone meringue is the best seller.

’Ave a Pizza

Owned by the Januszkiewicz family (former proprietors of Rubikon and Syrena Bar), Ave Pizza (Topiel 12) is the latest hot trending venue in upcoming Powiśle. Find several types of bianca and rossa pizza, prepared by Fabio and Massimiliano: two expert pizza makers whose families have been in the pizza business for generations. Say it quietly, but Mąka I Woda may have a rival.

Basico Meringues are taken seriously in Basico (Branickiego 11), so much so it’s co-owner Agata Kościkiewicz who deals with them in person. The classic with whipped cream and seasonal fruit is the most popular, though do also try the chocolate.

Soul Kitchen Chef Andrzej Poland is always playing with new variations of a classic recipe. In summer, Soul Kitchen (Noakowskiego 16) paired it with Inka coffee cream, cherry sorbet and fruit. Right now find poppy meringue with coffee ice cream, plums in krupnik and almond cream.

Eye on Italy The gradual reawakening of Próżna continues with the opening of Mercato (Próżna 7) on the ground floor of the award-winning Le Palais development. Serving both as a deli and bistro, find a bountiful selection of imported ingredients as well as a small but authentic menu.

WARSAW INSIDER | OCTOBER 2013

Time for… The Harvest

The big opening of September, The Harvest (Domaniewska 34A) is a project authored by owners Michał Marciniak and Marek Dębicki. But for foodies, the real star is Robert Trzópek, former chef of Tamka 43. Backed up by sous chef Michael Jarosz (formerly of Flaming & Co.), dishes in this metropolitan restaurant / cocktail bar include oysters with rhubarb and ginger, Dover sole meuniere ad cannelloni with scallops and crab mousse.

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF WARSAW FOODIE

Porto Praga The meringue in Porto Praga (Okrzei 23) is the star dessert, and comes with passion fruit mousse, as well as well as other mousse partnerships such as lychee and raspberry. In the right season, the redcurrant is a must.

Reviews: Kaskrut 35 / Sorbo Serpico 60 Plus:

* 24 updates

RESTAURANTS

AFRICAN 38 / AMERICAN 38 / ASIAN 38 / BALKAN & RUSSIAN 40 / BRITISH 41 / BURGERS 41 / CHEAP EATS 45 / COOKING SCHOOLS 64 / CZECH 46 /FOOD SHOPS 62 / FRENCH 46 / GERMAN 47 /GREEK & TURKISH 47 / HOME DELIVERY 38 / INDIAN 47 / INTERNATIONAL & FUSION 48 / ITALIAN 54 /JAPANESE & SUSHI 57 / JEWISH 57 / LATIN 58 / MIDDLE EASTERN 59 / POLISH 59 / SCANDINAVIAN 62 / WHOLE FOOD 64

Insider’s Pick

W PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

arsaw’s seen an increasing surge or exciting new openings, yet even so few have thrilled and tickled as much as the launch of Kaskrut – and yes, I can’t help but feel a little altruistic when telling friends about it. Perched on the first floor above a basement store, in an area a New York realtor would describe as EMA (East of Maraszałkowska), Kaskrut (a play on the French "casse-

croûte" for a light bite or snack) is little over two months old, and sets about introducing north African and French flavors to Polish cuisine. After enjoying a cocktail next door at Leniviec (at press time, Kaskrut were awaiting a liquor license), we climbed the steps to this small little place to be surprised to find no small tables – just a tall, high communal seating plan. Generally, when restaurants offer bar-side seating, I’m game – this time though, the light

coming in from the windows was too good to ignore. We settled immediately, with credit for that going to the owner – or, at least, the person I assumed was the owner (a safe assumption considering he was older than the rest of the twentysomething kitchen crew). It was our first time, but he still took it upon himself to treat us like regulars and stop for a chat. The menu, he tells us, changes weekly, hence you’ll find it in handwritten form on the board above the kitchen. Since the

prices are reasonable, we decide to run the gambit of appetizers to dessert. My partner starts with a radish, carrot and raisin salad with a carrot dressing that is balanced beautifully with a hint of pepper. I love leeks, and enjoyed a braised sampling topped with an Asian style rice wafer. At this stage, the restaurant’s choice of name becomes clear: portions are precise and small, but everything we try prompts us to want more. And more. As we wait patiently for mains, the barrage of aromas make us squirm with anticipation. My partner has ordered the beef tongue on a parsnip puree topped with what looks like a fried grape leaf and small fried sardine fillet. I’ve chosen the sweet potato gnocchi with a cream sauce drizzled with electric green thyme infused oil. I have to confess, I don’t think mine worked as well as it could have – while decent, the oil and cream medley just didn’t appeal. Tasting my wife’s dish, I definitely had an outbreak of plate envy: it was delicious, with the fried offal truly inspiring. But any lingering disappointment on my behalf was soon forgotten with the final act. Having ordered a dessert of salted caramel, walnut ice cream and cappuccino foam, we were moved to silence – the kind of reverential silence reserved only for the best. And this truly was the best: the best dessert I’ve had in my life. (KD) Kaskrut ul. Poznańska 5, tel. 22 622 5438, www.facebook.com/dwichlab. Open Mon-Sun 12:00-15:00, 17:00-23:00.

Reviewer's Final Word

Cool design fixtures and a young team have a trickledown that ensures a hip buzzy foodie crowd: fit in by photographing all dishes ordered. With prices rarely north of zł. 30, it’s gained a reputation as “the poor man’s Atelier”. Top class food at humble prices.

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RESTAURANTS Home Delivery Delivero www.delivero.pl Here’s the score: enter your postcode, then wait for the computer to kick into action and spit out the restaurants covered in your delivery zone. In general, the restaurants now err to the side of pizza and sushi choices. Internet ordering only, with no English language option. Dominos Multiple locations, tel. 22 209 0000, www.dominospizza.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. They’re back! Years after shutting shop the Dominos crew return to Warsaw, and this time they’re better than ever. It’s strictly takeaway/delivery only (unless you count the stand-up table outside), but these guys get listed for what amounts to the best delivered pizza in the history of Poland. Pizza Portal www.pizzaportal.pl Nationwide service and similar to Delivero: tap in your postcode then wait for a list of choices to crunk out of the machine. As the name suggests, pizza is the forte, though there are also a heavy selection of randoms – kebabs, sushi, pierogi. 24hr pizza delivery options also available. Room Service tel. 22 651 9003, www.roomservice.pl. Deliver to over fifty restaurants under their umbrella, and can also turn their hand to delivering wine, beverages and flowers. Web and phone orders taken in English and Polish, with delivery charges tagged between zł. 13 to zł. 25. Find venues like Blue Cactus, Le Cedre, Namaste, Sushi Zushi, Tomo and The Warsaw Tortilla Factory. Royal Menu tel. 22 244 2121, www.royalmenu.pl. Phone and internet delivery options, plus English language website and English speaking telpehone operators. Min. order of 50zł, with delivery charges ranging from 10zł to 24zł (Warsaw outskirts). Credit cards accepted for orders of 80zł plus. Restaurants covered by this mob inc. players such as Rain by India Curry, Osteria, Papaya and Sakana.

KEY $ zł. 30 (per main)

BOW 2012 Winner........... $$ zł. 30-55 Breakfast menu ............. Business meetings.......... $$$ over zł. 55 Child friendly................... Insider writers do Delivery............................. not accept any Free wifi.............................. form of payment in Romantic.......................... return for favorable Vegetarian friendly........... reviews.

AFRICAN Café Baobab ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057. Open 10:00-23:00. Café Baobab serves Senagelese classics like thiebu djen, mafe yap and yassa ginar. It’s adapted to Polish tastes, but say the word and authentic spiciness can appear. $ La MaMa Africa ul. Andersa 23, tel. 22 226 3505, www.lamama.eu. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 13:00-24:00. Sprayed with racist graffiti over summer, it was heartening to see the local community rally round in support of the owners. As for food, that’s an authentic rundown of dishes that include baked cow back and gizzard. Unfortunately, it’s just not to our taste: the goat stew felt like one big mistake. Judging by the repeat custom, not everyone shares our view. $$

AMERICAN Champions Sports Bar Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, www.champions.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Long-known on the Warsaw scene as a sports bar – ideal for large groups of large guys drinking large amounts of beer and watching a large-screen TV. $$ Hard Rock Cafe ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Open 9:00-24:00. Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has the pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$ Jeff’s ul. Żwirki i Wigury 32 (Pole Mokotowskie Park), tel. 22 825 1650, www.jeffs.pl. Open 10:00-24:00. Head to Jeff’s for super-

WARSAW INSIDER | OCTOBER 2013

size portions from the ribs and wings class. Portions might be big, but don’t anticipate any further thrills with regards to the food. $ Sioux ul. Chmielna 35, tel. 22 827 8255, www.sioux.com.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-23:00. You might want to point the shotgun hanging on the wall at the chef. Decorated with horseshoes and feather headdresses, the only reason to show up is to humor a nagging infant. Food-wise, it’s little more than a cowboy-themed version of Sphinx: mass market food for those who don’t know better. $$ Someplace Else Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6707, www.someplace-else.pl. Open Mon 12:00-24:00; Tue-Thur 12:00-01:00; Fri & Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. Favoring a stark concrete look, SPE were once a legend of 90s/00s Warsaw. Things have tamed down since that ex-pat heyday, but this remains a noteworthy choice for live MOR rock and zippy Tex Mex food. $$

T.G.I. Friday’s al. Jana Pawła II 29, tel. 22 653 8360. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-24:00; Sat & Sun 12:00-24:00. The steaks are a miss-and-miss affair, and even the burgers can’t compare to Warsaw’s armada of burgeries. And the interiors are just as you’d remember: crass, vulgar and in need of a company-wide rethink. Why do people bother? $$

ASIAN Asia Tasty pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1, tel. 22 654 6120. Open 9:30-21:00. One of the great secrets of culinary Warsaw – for those In The Know this is the place for cheap, cheerful Asian food. Not that it looks like much, this is as basic as interiors get; leave the hot date outside while you pick-up a takeout. $ Bliss Restaurant Rynek Mariensztacki, tel. 22 826 3210. tel. 22 620 3519, www.blissrestaurant.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00. Longevity aside, Bliss (alive since ’95) boast classically cliche interiors that make dramatic use of dragons and buddhas. Inconsistent accuse some, though you’ll struggle to find better Chinese-style ribs. $$ Canton ul. Smocza 1, tel. 22 838 3823,

www.canton.warszawa.pl. Open daily 11:0022:00. Here’s what Chinese restaurants used to look like in the days of Bruce Lee: filled with dragons and lanterns, this place is an outright assault on your sensory system. Wokking away for over a decade, it’s actually not a bad place if you want an MSG booster. The Gong Bao chicken gets approval. $$ Cesarski Pałac ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, www.cesarskipalac.com. Open Mon-Fri 12:0023:00; Sat 12:30-23:00; Sun 12:30-22:00. A rouge tinted Chinese restaurant whose design even incorporates a footbridge. Widely acclaimed, this 18-year-old restaurant combines Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine to serve a variety of dishes to an elegant backdrop. The Dim Sum are something else. $$ China Garden ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 241 1010, www.chinagarden.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00.

See Wilanów section, p. 31 to p. 33. Du-Za Mi-Ha ul. Widok 16, tel. 22 826 1871. A compact Vietnamese joint noted for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers. The pho, on the other hand, is disappointing – according to one reader, “awful”. Prices begin at around zł. 10 and don’t go far north of zł. 20. You get what you pay for. $ InAzia ul. B. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Hotel), tel. 22 450 6705. Open Mon-Sat 17:00-23:00. The Sheraton has a rich history of serving some of Warsaw’s best Asian food, with chef Marcin Sasin creating a menu that draws on influences as diverse as Indonesian, Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese. Popular with Thai diplomats and hushed hotel guests, the experience is worth the quite considerable splurge. Note that the restaurant will be closed for the duration of August. $$$ Loving Hut Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568,

www.lovinghut.waw.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. What looks like just another Vietnamese greasy spoon is, in fact, part of a global chain backed by a spiritual master. The reading material is creepy and cultish, but the vegan food is good if you’re that way inclined. $ Natara Al. Solidarności 129/131, tel. 666 101 500. Open 10:00-22:00. With a few wilting orchids and some symbolic pics of Buddha this bi-level restaurant won’t be in the running for any style prizes. The food is spot-on though, and after a brief panic during which we considered ordering everything – it all sounds so good – the Insider settled for duck in wine and a classic green curry. The results were outstanding: rich, velvety flavors and complex tastes. $$ Natara Old Town ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13. Open 11:00-23:00. Set inside the Old Town walls, the setting is magical – from the outside. Inside, it’s all dowdy brown and plastic plants. Service, if you

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RESTAURANTS can call it that, teases patience to the max, but the food is fantastic. Everything we’ve tried on the menu goes right, not least the fiery red curry duck. Highly recommended. $$ Papaya ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, www.papaya. waw.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. A place of precise lines and slick finishes, Papaya have softened the interiors a little, giving the aesthetics a less rigid look. The menu is a considerable success and includes sushi, kobe beef and a much talked about Peking duck. Our advice, however, is to check out Poland’s only teppanyaki grill – thank us after. $$

Pekin Duck ul. Drawska 29A, tel. 22 412 8988, www.pekinduck.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Looks like a typical Chinese – i.e., like a 1980s New Year’s Eve ball – and the service is carnage; expect lots of miscommunication and truculent attitude. The food isn’t bad, though it’d be interesting to know how many pigs feet they actually ever sell. $$ Shabu Shabu Hot Pot ul. Mokotowska 27, tel. 535 685 750. Open 12:00-23:00. Each table has its own set of hot pots installed and once you choose your broth and extras, you are the master of your own culinary destiny. We chose some seafood and some greens and were served a dish that was not quite a pad thai, but incredibly tasty all the same. A simple meal, but satisfying nonetheless. $ Silk & Spicy ul. Żurawia 16/20, tel. 22 629 7012. Open 12:00-last guest. If you don’t benchmark Silk & Spicy against what you’d eat in Asia (and you really shouldn’t), then you might enjoy it. “The curry was on taste-wise,” said our disappointed graphic, “but the cream cheese didn’t work in the sushi and the kmichi-style salad served at the beginning was very pedestrian for such a place.” $

Because Warsaw Just Got Hotter Classic Indian Cuisine With A Funky Twist ul. Zurawia 22, tel. 501 400 386, www.rain.pl

Spring Roll ul. Szpitalna 3, tel. 519 828 788. Open 11:00-23:00. Baleful ballads and twangy cover versions of Bryan Bloody Adams set the mood in this eatery. The signature dish – spring rolls – don’t go beyond six out of ten, so what hope the rest of the menu? The teriyaki chicken should be renamed teriyaki chicken giblets, and comes with the addition of the worst ingredient ever devised: steamed cauliflower. Ergh. Suddenly, all those empty seats make sense. $ Suparom Thai ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 22 627 1888, www.suparomthaifood.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood. The shrimp cakes are always worth a try. $$

Home of the Thursday Warsaw Curry Club

Suparom Thaifood II ul. Wałbrzyska 40, tel. 22 853 3087, www.suparomthaifood.pl. Tiny, when compared to its parent on Marszałkowska, and distinctly unassuming. Suparom’s green curry is the ‘best in the world’ according to one reader, and while such a superlative begs for a

WARSAW INSIDER | OCTOBER 2013

challenge, none is forthcoming – not from us, anyhow. $$ Thai Thai Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283. Open 12:00-23:00. Sanad Changpuen, a man widely credited with popularizing Thai food in Poland, returns to Warsaw with predictable results: the food is a hit. And what a space this acclaimed chef has been blessed with: gold vaulted ceilings lend a muted glow to a largely black-on-black space; from the walls, serene looking Buddha’s peer on diners down below. At once, the soothing interiors ease guests into a state of inner peace while Sanad does the rest. $$ Toan Pho ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307. Mon-Fri 9:30-23:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. $ Why Thai ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, www. whythai.pl. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00. A fresh attractive look, an authentic chef and a menu that doesn’t waffle on for pages and pages. But there’s something missing here, with the flavors not quite hitting the levels one expects. $$ Yummy ul. Wilcza 20. Open 10:00-22:00. The Insider’s favorite budget Asian eatery, even if the empty tables suggest dark forces at work in the kitchen. Modern and minimal, the lemon chicken is delicious and the pad thai is a sure bet. $

BALKAN & RUSSIAN Banja Luka ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, www.banjaluka.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. Numerous meaty dishes from Serbia and Croatia are served inside a Banja Luka, a Warsaw stalart who’ve moved with the times and... moved. The new, central location is as pleasing as the last, with lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics. $$ Babooshka ul. Oboźna 9, lok. 102, tel. 22 406 3366; ul. Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 625 1040,

www.babooshka.pl. Open 10:00-22:00. Looking intimate and woodsy Babooshka serves up dollops of simple Russian food to a budget conscious crowd. The bacon and tomato scented solyanka soup is a thick broth best suited for Warsaw’s long, windy nights. $

other courses, and while the cevapcici (handrolled mince) are decent, they’re no superior to anything you might get in a reputable kebab store – but the reaction from Warsaw’s food blogs suggests we may have visited on a bad day. Beware: clanking construction work next door make earplugs a must. $

Gemo ul. Minska 25 (Soho Factory), tel. 22 468 1876, www.gemorestaurant.pl. Open 12:00last guest. At last, a Georgian restaurant without gnarled furniture and peasant fabrics. Located inside Soho Factory, Gemo has a severe, industrial style accented further by steel lights and exposed pipework. The menu is modestly priced, yet includes several dishes to return for: the szaszlyk, for one. $

U Madziara ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, www.umadziara.pl. Open 11:00-21:00. Looking at it you wouldn’t expect much, but there’s a reason the homely U Madziara has won the applause of Maciej Nowak – Poland’s toughest food critic. That reason is Gabor, a top chef who’s happy to join customers for a drink… but only after he’s done the biz in the kitchen. The salmon tartar is a great starter, but nothing compared to his signature goulash. Good luck finding a better deal in Warsaw. $

Montenegro ul. Natolińska 3, tel. 885 787 887. Open 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. The two levels are covered in soothing whites, and the interiors suggest a makeover conducted with little budget but plenty of taste. Servings are immense, leaving diners no room to explore

BRITISH The British Bulldog ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, www.bbpub.pl.

Open 8:00-1:00. The pub design is wonderful, and straight out of Midsummer Murders with its Chesterfield sofas and Cutty Sark mirrors. But it’s been a downhill disaster since they lost the original management team. What could have become Poland’s original gastro pub now serves greasy burgers and, judging by the stench at the bar, lots of food that’s way over-fried. $$ Legends ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, www.legendsbar.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. It’s a British pub first and foremost, but don’t forego the kitchen either. The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$

BURGERS

Barn Burger ul. Złota 9. What finished summer 2012 as Warsaw’s most talked about burger has seen

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f the big stories that have rattled Warsaw’s cage this year, few have been bigger than the launch of Hoża by Mondevino. And rightly so. The kitchen is the work of Martin Gimenez Castro, an Argentinean who naturally exudes confidence and charisma. But then you probably knew that already: a regular face on hit TV show Top Chef, he’s becoming one of the most whispered about chefs in local foodie circles. Defining his menu as author’s cuisine, he’s given a contemporary twist to the food of his homeland. “It’s a small menu here,” he says, “but it’s not so traditional, not so simple. I use my kitchen as a playground, a laboratory, and the food you’ll find is a modern look at South American cuisine.” The seafood comes highly praised but, clearly, meat is Hoża’s principal anchor. Using Limousin, Hereford and Angus cattle from a farm in Góry Świętokrzyskie, the provenance of food is key to Mondevino’s philosophy. Its thanks to this Hoża have climbed into conscience as arguably the best steak in Poland. “I wanted to show people it is possible to get good steak in Poland, and that you don’t need to import it.” And yes, the feedback has been overwhelming. “Our beef tastes exactly as you’d find in Argentina,” says Martin, “and I think the biggest compliment we get is that customers mistake it as Argentinean import.” But it’s not just the food that sets Hoża apart. It’s unique in that while

A Latin Class

Back in the old days, finding good meat here really was murder. That’s changed, and there’s an Argentinean showing us how to do it… By Alex Webber | Photographs by Kevin Demaria

WARSAW INSIDER | OCTOBER 2013

Clockwise from top: another of Hoża's specialties, grilled octopus with potato salad; the interiors immediately engage with an unconventional, modern Latin vibe; the VIP room, available for private hire; cut yourself off from autumn outside; a master at work, chef Martin in action.

being new, it hasn’t followed Warsaw trends – preferring instead to follow their heart, not the crowd. As such, the style is a refreshing change from the stark interiors trending around town. The colors are deep and voluptuous, while at the same time warm and engaging. Here it’s all raw brick, industrial lamps and artwork, giving something of a New York spin. The history of this pre-war building fuses well with the young and casual energy. Instantly, you get that sense the owners have designed this as a place to be enjoyed; a place to linger long. And linger you will, not least thanks to a wine list that’s second to none. Owner and actor, Tomasz Budyta, has been active as a wine importer for twenty three years plus, and his knowledge and expertise are reflected by a choice of 150 fine wines (also available for home purchase), not to mention fifty plus single malts. Set across four chambers, and with an intimate 10-person VIP room, every detail has been considered: from private parking to the Latin jazz sounds. Though, with the early autumn chill already in the air, the prevailing memory is the warmth of Hoża: from the interiors to the kitchen, from the staff to the owners. It all feels so right.

Hoża by Mondovino ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 603 778 275. Open 12:00-22:00 (or last guest).

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RESTAURANTS its stock nosedive somewhat. Even so, you’ll still find several people out there who remain fiercely loyal to their quite considerable offer. On our part, the Insider remains partial to the occasional Muppet Burger: a messy affair loaded with salsa, jalapenos and BBQ sauce. By the time you’ve finished with it, the wooden board it’s served on will look like Jack the Ripper has just passed through town. $ Bistro & Burger Bar ul. Francuska 45, tel. 666 396 967. Open 11:00-22:00. What should you expect from a place that can’t even be bothered thinking about a name? Not much, is the answer. Warsaw has great burger bars, but also a few chancers that have been foisted upon us on the back of the craze. At best, you’d call it average. When paired with disinterested service you have the makings of pretty glum time. Don’t let them get away with it. $ Bobby Burger ul. Żurawia 32/34, bobbyburger.pl. Open Mon-Thu 11:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-4:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. Inescapably popular, but why?

Maybe we’ve only visited on off days, because this Insider has yet to understand what the fuss is about. Compared to WarBurger it’s a bottom-feeder. $

there aren’t many), and waiting times can drive you nuts – as can the tramps who stagger past to the nearby bottle bank. The burgers though are a different class. $

Brooklyn Burgers & Wings ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 270 2144. Open SunThu 12:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-5:00. There are those out there who claim Brooklyn to be the best burger in Warsaw – and we’re not talking about hipsters on longboards, but American ex-pats who really know the score. And yes, what you get with Brooklyn is something very good indeed – maybe not the best, but in a city with quite probably 60-odd burger bars, it’s certainly Top 3. That’s largely thanks to Alan, a young American chef wholly dedicated to his job. Homemade sauces, wings, ribs, strips and beer (inc. Sam Adams!). $ Burger Bar ul. Puławska 74/80 (enter from Olkuska). Open Tue-Sun 12:00-20:00. Hands down the sort of burger Thurman and Travolta would chow in Pulp Fiction. Decorative elements don’t go beyond tables and chairs (of which

Burger Kitchen ul. Widok 8, tel. 22 464 8284, www.burgerkitchen.pl. Open Mon-Thu 7:30-23:00; Fri 7:301:00; Sat 9:00-1:00; Sun 9:00-20:00. The burger trend hasn’t even crested, and that’s not a problem so long as there are talents like Tomek Wozniak around. His is a menu that considers everything from light, nutritious breakfasts, all the way up to sticky Hoisin chicken wings. His global travels are reflected in an outstanding offer that presents such details as homemade ketchup and authentic guacamole. As for the burger front, that involves matured, hand formed Angus meat, soft buns and sprinklings of caramelized onion and Mimolette cheese. It’s a fun, casual space with an appreciation of words like organic and nature. $

CARPACCIO ul. Nowy Świat 36, 22 692 47 26

Classic Italian cuisine: the delicious, honest tastes of a true trattoria

WARSAW INSIDER | OCTOBER 2013

Bydło i Powidło ul. Kolejowa 47. Open 13:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. Set in a modern glass prism, here’s a place that’s realized you can’t get away with just serving burgers anymore (though here, they’re very good indeed). Unfortunately, the steak part of the menu just isn’t there yet. Ćwierćfunciak ul. Andersa 30, tel. 606 989 580. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. Muranów natives, so long starved of decent options, have reason to celebrate – at last the burger trend has reached them. And it’s been an encouraging start for these lot: find spicy habanero burgers and beers from Pinta and AleBrowar – how can you possibly not like it. $ Hmm Burger ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 22 629 0565, www.hmmburger.pl. Open 10:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 12:00-last guest. With a name like Hmm Burger you expect something a little humdrum. It’s actually far from it, but in a

city saturated with meat and bun options it takes something special to standout. “I’d go all the time if I lived above,” said our Insider, “but I don’t.” If you do, then the Cowboy is above-average. $ Warburger ul. Dąbrowskiego 1. Open Mon-Fri 12:0020:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-19:00. Forget Year of the Dragon, 2012 was Year of the Burger – or more specifically, Year of the WarBurger. Edging the competition, this diminutive little cabin wins eulogies across the board for base-level prices, super friendly service and pimped up burgers that use gourmet ingredients. $ Queen Burger ul. Hoża 1. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-3:00. Lengthy waiting times are softened by tremendous burgers, even if the crowd isn’t to everybody’s taste: you can almost smell the air of unjustified selfsatisfaction. They also serve fish and chips, which the chef describes as ‘Australian-style, not British’.

CHEAP EATS Bar Turecki “Efes” ul. Francuska 1, tel. 22 616 2580. Open daily 10:00-20:00. So it’s a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of grill food and salads. $ Fabryka Frytek ul. Złota 3, www.fabrykafrytek.pl. Open Mon-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:00; Sun 11:00-22:00. Giant portions of Belgian fries (up to 600g!), waffles, wedges and whatever else you can make out of a potato come served with an equally comprehensive range of dips and sauces. $ Friterie (D5) ul. Hoża 42, tel. 794 158 813. Open Sun-Thu 9:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-2:00. Served in paper cones, the Belgian-style chips come with that inimitable double-fried crunch and a range of sauces that merit experimentation: try the ‘Andaluse’. $

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RESTAURANTS Groole ul. Śniadeckich 8, tel. 795 633 626, www. groole.pl. Open 12:00-20:00. You’ll find potatoes served everywhere in Poland, just not in the way we like them: i.e., with a crunchy, crispy skin and lots of hot, melted goo. Groole fill that gap with jacket spuds loaded with toppings such as spicy cherry tomatoes or chicken curry. A revelation! $

Justyna’s Secret Recipes ul. Marszałkowska 138, www.jsecretrecipes. com. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-21:00. We’re told Justyna was inspired by the Pret-a-Manger chain. Whatever the case, you just can’t fault her sandwiches which are fixed using proper imported bacon, organic sundries, and the freshest of bread. The delivery service is highly recommended for desk-bound officebots. $

Meat Love ul. Hoża 62, tel. 500 149 210, www.meatlove.pl. Open Mon-Thu 10:0022:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. An eco-minded sandwich stop, this intimate basement has a smart wooden look and friendly staff notable for their daring body art. The home-baked baguettes are the star, and come with a range of organic ingredients complimented with thick cuts of top quality animal. Roast beef, pulled pork and porchetta are just a few of your options. $ Mr Pancake ul. Solec 50, tel. 888 021 888. Lurking amid the side streets of Powiśle, the pancakes here

are brilliant and come with a heap of toppings and funny faces traced into them with icing sugar. Who cares if the staff wander around like they’ve just smoked a bong – it’s great. $

– check their Facebook. They’re worth tracing as the burritos are certainly a candidate for Warsaw’s best: and the sauces tingle as well. $

Okienko ul. Polna 22, tel. 603 771 483. Open 9:0022:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00. Food through a hatch with pride of place going to fantastic Belgian-style fries served with a comprehensive choice of sauces (top marks to the jalapeno). Large portions are zł. 10, and do just the job on post-pub munchies. $

Wurst Kiosk ul. Zwycięzców 17, tel. 606 133 134. Open Mon-Thu 11:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 11:0022:00; Sun 12:00-19:00. Authentic German sausages served through a hole-in-a-wall with big dabs of mustard and fresh bread. The currywurst is fabulous, and there’s also Belgian-style fries. $

Soul Food Bus Corner of Mazowiecka & Świętokrzyska. Open Fri & Sat 22:00-4:00. You can’t miss this place: it’s a big red truck/bus. Their m.o is simple enough. Eleven types of burgers, and seven quesadillas, served from late until even later. Note they do move around and the open hrs are subject to change – Facebook them for their latest GPS. $ To Tu Dumpling Bar ul. Niekłańska 33, www.chinskapierogarnia. pl. Open 10:00-21:00. A shabby looking shack cabin, To Tu offer what are seriously considered some of the best – if not the best – dim sum in town. Magic-ked up by a Manchurian exile, the experience isn’t unlike being in a sweaty back street haunt in Asia. And that’s a good thing! $

Wheel Meal www.facebook.com/wheelmealpl. A Mexican food truck whose location varies with the day

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CZECH

Lokal.Bistro Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 506 823 903. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00. What started off as a burger joint has been reinvented as a hip Czech-blooded restobar. It’s not like the smelly taverns we prefer while in Prague, rather a bare and ascetic space of big ceilings and dentist colors: less is more. There’s a belting series of cross-the-border beers, and wooden boards of fried cheeses and goulash offers. $

FRENCH L’Arc ul. Puławska 16, tel. 503 171 682, www.larc.pl. Open 10:00-last guest. Looking elegant with its black/white floors

and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. No-one complains, however. Pick from five types of oysters, or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. An excellent venue, and one whose catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów. $$ Pari Pari ul. Nowogrodzka 31, tel. 22 628 2402, www. paripari.pl. Open Mon-Thu 10:00-21:30; Fri 10:00-1:00; Sat 13:00-1:00. Also in Złote Tarasy. After an identity crisis that saw them serving up a bit of everything, chef Adam Kowalczyk has steadied the ship and returned to a more deliberately French menu. The bistro menu is very much a burgers and baguettes job, though the main menu find plenty of fish, not to say both lamb and rabbit cooked using sous vide methods. The interiors can be considered a little ritzy and in your face. $$

GERMAN

Adler ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. 22 628 73 84, www.adlerrestauracja.pl. Open 10:00-23:30; Sat-Sun 13:00-23:30. Set in a rustic rotunda, this veteran favorite packs in reassuringly caloric portions of pork knuckles, schnitzel and dumplings – all of a sudden, you understand why Helmut Kohl looks so large. Foaming beers served by Bavarian country maids complete the authenticity. $

GREEK & TURKISH Paros ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067. Open 12:00-23:00. Out of all of the Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most, with a glitzy look that’s a complete u-turn from the typical tawerna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, as is the quality – good to excellent. $$

Santorini ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, www.kregliccy. pl/santorini.php. Open daily 12:00-23:00. It looks mildly dubious from the outside, but inside Santorini contains several surprises.

The style is hackneyed (think fisherman’s tavern), but there’s a real fun fizz in the air, splendidly positive / youthful service and lamb chops that just can’t be faulted. The milfei dessert is highly recommended. $$

Sofra ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 22 628 0782. Open 8:00-last guest. On the design front it’s almost a straight plagiary of Charlotte: white brickwork, blackboard, communal table. So the surprise here is the food – Turkish. And not just any Turkish, but brilliant Turkish! It’s nothing fancy, but there’s a real honest quality to the moussaka and lamb and beef in tomato sauce. And the desserts are a real spoiler as well. $

INDIAN Bombaj Masala Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777. Open 11:00-23:00. With wide spaces and slick finishes Bombaj Masala takes its inspiration from the gleaming district, not (like most its competitors) from Santa’s Grotto. The food polarizes opinion, though most agree the prices don’t reflect the quality, and that the spices won’t scorch. $$ Buddha ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. 22 826 3501, www.buddha.info.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. The days of the Raj are recreated in Buddha, a fine-looking curry house with intricate interiors and top-drawer curries. The murgh masala jhodphur is our favorite, a bottom burning curry that appears as ‘ouch’ on the spice scale. $ Chmielarnia ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), www.chmielarnia.waw.pl. Open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. Not only does Chmielarnia house some of the world’s best beers (see Nightlife), but also – as the shrine by the door may suggest – a very good restaurant. Sure, you’re eating in a dark and loud beer cellar (to us that’s a bonus), but the Nepalese chef Ram knows what he’s doing. And aside from Indian and Nepalese staples, there’s a menu tailor-made for the beer swiggers. $ Curry House ul. Żeromskiego 81, tel. 508 870 774. It’s through happy little tears the Insider declares Curry House as the overall victor in the local curry wars. The eye-watering vindaloo stands apart as Warsaw’s most macho curry,

Ryż i Ryba ul. Piękna 20 00-549 Warszawa Tel. +48 22 627 41 50 piekna@ryziryba.pl, www.ryziryba.pl

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RESTAURANTS and has been known to provoke spontaneous combustion. The other dishes are equally superb, and with this quality on show it’s easy to overlook the primary design and lunar location. Now also in Ursynów at Al. KEN 47. $

Ganesh ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 22 623 0266, www.ganesh.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. To tell the story of Ganesh is to tell the story of what could have been. After a scintillating start which saw it declared one of the best curries ever, Ganesh find themselves trapped in a backward motion, with quality sacrificed in exchange for an aggressive expansion right across Poland. Looking chic and dark, it’s arguably one of the best looking Indian restaurants there is. But the food, oh dear. A convention of the New Warsaw Curry Club saw it score a collective 5/10, with particular lowlights including the discovery of a ‘thing’ in the murgh makhanawala – was it bone? A thumbnail? We’re none the wiser. $$ Himalaya Momo ul. Ząbkowska 36. Open Mon-Thur 11:0021:00; Fri-Sun 10:00-22:00. There’s only four tables here, so don’t linger. The size means several staples have been cut from the menu, among them naan bread – there’s no space for a tandoor over, you see. What kind of Indian restaurant forgets a tandoor oven? In this case, a very good one. What does appear on the Tibetan / Indian menu is usually delicious. $ Maharaja India ul. Marszałkowska 34/50, tel. 22 621 1392, www.maharaja.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00. A bedraggled looking old-timer set inside some showpiece Soviet concrete. Oily, unstimulating curries are the order of the day, so it’s surprising to learn the butter chicken is amongst the best in the city. $$ Mandala ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 662 019 666, www.mandalaklub.com or www.indiaexpress.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. Keen, supersize portions and an efficient home delivery service (indiaexpress. pl) have made this lot something of a bookmark. Not dissimilar from the curries you may have survived on as a student, Mandala are cheap, efficient and really worth checking. $ Namaste India ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 22 696 3856, www.namasteindia.pl.

Open Mon-Thur 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:0004:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. If waiting times are anything to go by this is quite probably the most popular curry in town, and yes, pretty much everything they make is of gold star standard. Find the original, more modest version on Nowogrodzka, and a (very) slightly more upmarket offering in Old Town. $ Parivar al. Waszyngtona 75, tel. 22 393 4104. Open 11:00-22:00. The squid sizzler has the taste and texture of that chewing gum you found stuck under the bus seat, while the vindaloo is cunningly disguised as a bowl of red water with some chicken floating about. “I get better curry on the oil rigs,” opined the Insider’s official balti boy. For all of that, the biggest disappointment is Parivar’s apparent success. $

Rain by India Curry ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350. www.rain. pl. Ray Bridgeford, the former owner of the legendary Sense, is the man behind the miraculous resuscitation of India Curry. Fresh contemporary interiors impart a chic, classy aesthetic, but it’s the menu that’s become the talk of the town. Our curry expert rates the starters as the best he’s had in ANY Indian restaurant, but that’s not all… lending this place serious credentials as Warsaw’s best Indian are a feisty vindaloo and initiatives such as the Thursday night Rain Curry Club (zł. 69 for curry, breads and starters), and their zł. 25 Tiffins lunch deals. $$ Saffron Spices Pl. Konstytucji 3, www.saffronspices.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Set on two floors Saffron has a menu more limited than most, though they have at least finally introduced alcohol. The murgh makhani is fiercely inconsistent, and the chicken, in the words of one reader, ‘strange’. Nonetheless, we like it – when the chef does get it right, this place scores well. $$

INTERNATIONAL & FUSION 4/Czwarte ul. Piaseczynska 71, tel. 22 100 3139, www.4czwarte.pl. Open daily 8:00-23:00. 4/ Czwarte sits smack in the middle of Warszawianka’s 29 tennis courts. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, it can be rather motivating to eat and drink to the plop of the tennis balls. Chef Kinga Araucz brings a fresh eye to food in Warsaw, and her modern menu combines well with the pleasantly congenial atmosphere and sharp interior. $$

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12 Stolików ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 519 151 504. Open 9:00-23:00. Affecting a boutique style, the look here is clean, crisp and scattered with lifestyle titles. And forming the central element is the kitchen – yes, here’s a place that promotes cooking as a form of theater. The menu is chalked on a board, and while alio olio was overcooked, the big guns came out for the steak: a very decent piece of meat. Enjoyable enough, though nothing particularly memorable. $$ Akademia ul. Różana 2, tel. 22 828 99 11. Open 12:00-24:00. The most high profile launch of 2013, with whole sections of street blocked off to keep the beautiful people from being molested by the public. But while the prevailing attitude is snooty, chef Grzegorz Nowakowski has done an excellent job on an artfully simple menu that fits seamlessly with the white-on-white interiors. $$ A Nóż ul. Różana 30, tel. 608 386 388. Open 9:0023:00. ‘A Jack of all trades, master of none,’ you might think. You’d be wrong. Burgers, pastas, Asian-inspired salads, and pizzas are represented, and while some dishes require fine-tuning, the overall impression is positive. Paired with a cool, typically Warsaw interior (white, white, white), the owners have a real success story on their hands. $ Bistecca Bistro ul. Branickiego 11, tel. 22 258 1243, www.bistecca.pl. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00. See Wilanów section, p. 31 to p. 33. Boathouse ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616 3331, www.boathouse.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. For the supersize treatment head to Boathouse, a leviathan restaurant set in three acres of parkland – perfect for lazy summer Sunday’s with family and friends. The menu is Mediterranean in style with strong hints of Italian, though how they fare having lost their French chef Luc remains to be seen. $$

Brasserie Warszawska ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423. www.brasseriewarszawska.pl. Open Sun 12:00-20:00. A posh looking bistro whose credentials are supported by crisp shirted staff, gleaming surfaces and zinc mirrors. The menu changes daily, and on the Insider’s visit

included outstanding Fine de Claire oysters on a bed of fennel. The English influence of an owner who once managed The Grill at London’s Dorchester Hotel, shines through on with dishes like fish & chips on Friday and contemporary styled roast dinner on Sunday’s (yes, with Yorkshire pudding). $$$ Bufet Centralny ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel 523 749 160. Open 12:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-6:00; Sun 14:00-24:00. With white tiles, an artsy carpentered bar and draftsman desk lamps hanging from the walls, Bufet certainly gets points for design. The Hungarian fish soup is delicious, while the chocolate soufflé is airy, gooey and all things nice. But choice diminishes quickly – get there early to order the ribs. $$ Butchery & Wine ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, www. butcheryandwine.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0022:00. The most talked about restaurant of 2011 shows no sign of waning. Served on wooden boards by staff in butchers aprons, the steaks are beyond reproach,

and commonly considered the best in the city. In the evening, reservations remain recommended. $$

By The Way Bottega Kulinarna ul. Lipowa 7a, tel. 22 692 7239, www.bytheway.com. pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Everything here looks fantastic – the pared down interiors with their concrete greys and houndstooth touches, and the food. Oh yes, the food. There’s about five mains to hover on, the highlight being the duck breast. The meringue dessert is heaven, as well. $$

Bydło I Poidło ul. Krucza 16/22. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. Filled with rawhide and industrial undertones, this grown-up version of Bydło I Powidło (see Burgers), has its accent on more high-end meats: and by that we mean steaks. Hopefully, they’re an improvement on the

ones served by their sister – we’ll be visiting soon to see. $$ Concept 13 ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373. Open 12:0023:00. Perched on the fifth floor of the Vitkac luxury department store, Concept 13 has a look that’d be approved of by any lifestyle mag: hardwood floors, glass and plenty of open spaces. The menu is contemporary and cleverly direct: five course set lunch menus from zł. 50. Modern designer dining BEST WAWA 2012 rarely gets better. $$$ “Restaurant for a Business Meeting” Winner, “Restaurant Design” Winner Chez Belier ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. 22 400 22 11. Open 12:00-24:00. Designed by Maciej Zień – Poland’s undisputed King of Fashion – Chez Belier looks five star with its immaculate blend of black and white colors, crystal lights and orchids. The menu is a compact affair, and is perfect in every respect: from presentation to taste. Modern and international, the offer numbers a fabulous tuna steak served

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RESTAURANTS on a bed of mango salsa. $$$ Der Elefant Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, www.derelefant.pl. Open 11:00-24:00. A Titanic-sized restaurant with a disorganized menu that appears to have been devised by throwing darts at a cookbook: Mediterranean mezze, Tom Yum soup, burgers, pierogi, etc. But if the menu is blurry, the cooking isn’t: it’s average/ acceptable to very good. The interiors are a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles, and frequently pack out to the rafters with families and other unwieldy groups. $$

Downtown Restaurant ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 888. Open daily for Breakfast 6:30-10:30; Mon-Fri Business Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sat Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00. Dinner 17:30-22:00 every Mon-Thurs. There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Yes, the doors of Downtown are a gateway to heaven

– particularly true if, like us, your vision of heaven is a rich green field filled with fat, juicy cows. But don't for one moment assume the offer ends with cows. Now added to their menu are other animalitos like kangaroo. $$$

farms. The prices, though, aren’t anything as prohibitive as you’d guess: zł. 89 buys a breathtaking beef Rossini. Slick, and popular with a posey crowd, it helps to look like James Bond. $$

Grill & Co ul. Żaryna 2B (Milllennium Park, Building C), tel. 22 646 0045, www.grill-co.com. Open 12:00-last guest. Featuring plexiglass seats and clean, dark woods this place could easily be mistaken as one of the trend dens on Mazowiecka. A top (m)eatery, the filet mignon is perfect, and served with generous sides. Prices, too, are pleasingly moderate. $$

Hoża by Mondovino ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 603 778 275. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. Stepping inside, the place feels dark, which is a refreshingly unorthodox sensation in Warsaw – really, when was the last time you saw a new restaurant that wasn’t decorated in the same bright white colors and bleach wood fittings. Having a chef who runs his own meat shop is a blessing, with the meat here coming out absolute trumps. $$

The Harvest Domaniewska 34 (Ambassador Office Building), tel. 660 750 600. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-2:00. Opened in September, that Robert Trzópek (El Bulli, Noma) is in charge of the kitchen suggests something phenomenal is about to happen. And it has. The menu is modern, seasonal and slow-food based with the ingredients sourced from farmers produce and organic

WARSAW INSIDER | OCTOBER 2013

Jasna 24 ul. Jasna 24, tel. 22 447 24 41, www.jasna24. pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. Slick, modern and loungey in look, Jasna 24 has a creative menu that include the use of deliciously unexpected combinations. Roll up on Wednesday’s if you prefer your dinner served with a slice of live music. $$

Jolibord 33 ul. Potocka 33, tel. 690 306 005, www. jolibord33.pl. Open Mon 12:00-22:00; Tue-Sun 10:00-22:00. There’s a continental climated to Jolibord 33, a place whose name refers to district’s French connection (Żoliborz comes from the French, Joli Bord – or green bank). The menu is more democratic in choice though, with international offerings that stretch from thick Hungarian meat stew to beautiful ricotta pancakes. The causal bistro style has been a hit with the locals. $$ La Rotisserie ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 531 6000, www.leregina.com. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat & Sun 7:00-11:00,12:00-23:00. That the head chef, Paweł Oszczyk, came within a whisker of pipping Wojciech Amaro in the Best Chef category of our 2012 awards says a lot. And he’s not the only star on the pay roll: there’s also Andrzej Strzelczyk, Poland’s top ranked sommelier. Mixing ‘French techniques, Polish products and Italian influences’, Oszczyk’s menu is built for superlatives. The venison is magnificent, and on our visit came served by Poland’s most theatrical waiter – someone, BEST WAWA give him a TV show. $$$ 2012 “Hotel Restaurant” Winner Magiel Café ul. Stępińska 2, tel. 22 841 0016. Open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest. Set with gingham tablecloths, antiques and launderette detritus, Magiel is as charming as they come. But don’t let the café part of the name fool you – the cooking here demands attention. Specializing in eco-minded slow food produce, the ever-rotating menu is fresh, natural and packed with taste. $$

Muu Muu ul. Moliera 8, tel. 661 951 910, www.muumuu.pl. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:0023:00. The place is sparky, fun and engaging: small in size, décor comprises of soft colors and light woods, not to mention a bar adorned with blackboard slogans such as ‘Eat Meat’ and ‘Love Bacon’. The heart of their act is meat, and steak appears in a variety of its forms: there’s T-Bone, bison, wagyu, etc. If you’re a vegetarian (or for that matter, a cow), run. New it might be, but there’s a quiet assurance about Muu Muu: the proprietor knows he’s on a good thing, and he very well is. $$ Momu.Gastrobar ul. Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 10001. Open 9:002:00. Tapas-style portions of experimental-

looking food arrives in little glass jars (meat and fish skewers, Eton mess), or else on paper plates a la the jalapeno hot dog. Pay zł. 40 for a choice of six itsy pots served in a wire-framed basket. But while it looks good, the Insider found it all very hit and miss… we could be alone on this – we’ve heard good things since, suggesting we visited on an off day. $

The new place on the map of Warsaw The new place on the map of Warsaw

Nolita ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, www.nolita. pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30, 18:00-22:30; Sat 13:00-23:00. A swank center restaurant anchored on the skills of Jacek Grochowina – a young talent who honed his skills at the London Ritz. Looking chic and high end, we enjoyed Tournedos Rossini: a victorious dish comprised of dainty pink meat, black truffles, foie gras and pureed potatoes served in a cast iron pot. Heaven. And order the sorbet. Dusted with a secret cosmic ingredient, first taste gives an intense fizzy sensation that’s utterly unexpected. One of the top dining rooms in Poland. $$$ Nowa Kuźnia ul. Kostki Potockiego 24, tel. 794 126 019, www.nowakuznia.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. See Wilanów section, p. 31 to p. 33. Passe Partout ul. Zwycięzców 21, tel. 22 616 2882, www.passepartout.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22.00. Looking like a business class waiting lounge, it’s easy to overlook Passe Partout. But you’d be a fool to do so. Unassuming it might be, but there’s something clearly very right with the kitchen. The diverse international menu has too many positives to count, though the Insider recommends the pork tenderloin: served with a blue cheese and balsamic sauce, it’s a plate licking meal. The back garden is a secret summer treat. $$ Platter by Karol Okrasa InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734, www.platter.pl. Open 12:00-16:00,17:30-23:00. The hotel has roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed. An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$

Bistro Piękna ul. Piękna 20 00-549 Warszawa Tel. +48 22 627 41 51 piekna@jazzone.pl www.jazzone.pl

Bistro Piękna ul. Piękna 20 00-549 Warszawa Tel. +48 22 627 41 51 piekna@jazzone.pl, www.jazzone.pl

Po Prostu Zachęta pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. 22 556 96 77.

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RESTAURANTS Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:0020:00. Sophisticated yet cozy, Darek Ryniec’s restaurant is set on the lower level of the Zachęta, and despite the grand vaulted ceiling offers substantial privacy with tables nestled beside major columns. The set lunch menu emphasizes Polish, while offering a main menu that’s definitely trendy European: the dishes will be licked clean.

restobar, Porto Praga have entered a new stage of life: that of a fine dining establishment. The chef’s philosophy is to maintain the natural flavor of ingredients, and the slow food angle is emphasized by magnificent lamb from Połoniny region. PP are equally proud of their seafood, so visit on Thursday / Friday when their ‘fish market’ menu introduces the likes of monkfish, John Dory and strawberry grouper. $$

Porto Praga ul. Stefana Okrzei 23, tel. 22 698 5001, www.portopraga.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00. Maturing from the murky concept of

Sowa & Przyjaciele ul. Gagarina 2, tel. 795 505 152. Open 11:00-23:00. It really looks the part, with warm lighting, soft colors and bare bulbs hanging

An Exceptional Butcher shop!!! 100% fresh Polish Angus, Hereford and Limousine beef Quality lamb and veal Seasoned steak: New York, rib-eye, T-bone, filet mignon... We look forward to seeing you!

ul. Domaniewska 17/19 Mon-Sun: 12.00-21.00 phone: 22 847 16 63 mobile: 506 813 300

www.ousushi.pl

Ou Sushi is a magical place where the culinary tradition of the east meets the fantasy and modernity of the west. The secret to our success is our constant quest for perfection.

WARSAW INSIDER | OCTOBER 2013

Qchnia Artystyczna Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, www.qchnia.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. Suitably artistic eatery with imaginative dishes, lots for vegetarians, and a lovely park view from the terrace. $$ Restauracja 99 Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, www. restaurant99.com. Open Mon-Thurs 8:0023:00; Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 15:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Sporting a futuristic look, 99 is an enduring veteran of the CBD circuit. No longer the top dog for business wining / dining, it nonetheless remains a very safe choice for perfect steaks and loaded margaritas. $$ Rozbrat 20 ul. Rozbrat 20, tel. 22 628 0295, www. rozbrat20.pl. Open Mon-Thu 7:30-23:00; Fri 7:30-last guest; Sat 9:00-last guest; Sun 9:00-22:00. Everything a restaurant should be – modern, but not too excessive, as well as traditional at the same time. Elegance emanates from everything and class glints off the silver champagne bowl and tasteful crockery. The menu is a contemporary, international affair, much like the crowd who appreciate it. $$

Oś. Marina Mokotów ul. Przejazd 4 (next to the bank) Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 9:00-14:00 For telephone orders: 797 866 131

from overhead cables. The positive impressions are further underlined by a sommelier with a sixth sense and a barnstorming menu that catches the attention. Sowa is one of the biggest names in Polish cooking, and you may fear he spends more time on TV than in his kitchen: with that in mind, we’re happy to report the main man emerging from the kitchen to share backslaps and bear hugs with the regulars who return. $$$

SAM ul. Lipowa 7, tel. 600 806 084. Bistro, bakery, hangout. However you choose to label SAM, it’s the talk of the town. Noisy Charlotte won all the press last summer, this time round its SAM. The cooling concrete interiors buzz throughout the day, with touches like communal tables well suited to the ascetic style. Owned by the same lot in charge of 6/12, there’s a similar commitment to good, healthy eating employed here. $$ Signature ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, www. signaturerestaurant.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Described by one reader as ‘a Monegasque state of mind at affordable prices,’ Signature is the bottom line in understated luxury: cutlery by Eternum, original Marilyn photos

shot by Milton Greene, 1950s Oswald chairs and reliefs dating from the days when this was the inter-war Soviet Embassy. But it’s the food that leaves the final impression. Wojtek Kilian looks set to be Poland’s next big chef, and his cooking is simply extraordinary. The menu stands to change soon, so we’re crossing our fingers that the foie gras duo survives any revisions. All things considered, the prices are a bargain. $$ Solec 44 ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, www.solec. waw.pl. Open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest; Mon 16:00-last guest. The minimalist and laid-back interior comes courtesy of Martin Walli, a SwissPolish game freak, and kitchen guru Aleksander Baron. The casual bistro-cum-bar they built is a reflection of their passions, a place serving up a small, daily-changing menu of soul foods made from fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients, complimented by a massive selection of board games, cards and logic puzzles... $ Stółdzielnia ul. Kazimierzowska 22, tel. 22 845 00 67, www.

stoldzielnia.pl. Open 13:00-22:00. A complete anomaly Stółdzielnia looks more like one of those one-day pop-up restaurants: unfinished looking, with odd-shaped tables and stark colors. But keep an open mind because the food scores big points. The pizza, pasta and seafood dishes incorporate imported Italian ingredients, and come close to blowing your mind. $$ Tamka 43 ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, www.tamka.43.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-23:00. There is an inspiration here which causes guests to linger over their meal, explore it and wonder at it. Food isn’t the background; it is the centerpiece. While Robert Trzópek has left the kitchen, he’s been ably replaced by Rafał Hreczaniuk – his menu pitches modern techniques against traditional, primarily root ingredients. It’s wonderful. $$ Taste Wilanów ul. Kazachzska 1, tel. 400 1122, www.taste.pl. Open 11:30-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00. See Wilanów section, p. 31 to p. 33.

Villa Foksal ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. 22 827 8716, www.restauracjavillafoksal.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00 -23:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-23:00. There’s a real elegance to Villa Foksal, an upscale restaurant whose floor plan and garden have made them a favorite for corporate bashes and brand launches. The Vichyssoise with truffles is a prelude to mains like filet mignon in red wine sauce. $$$ Winosfera ul. Chłodna 31, tel. 22 526 2500, www.winosfera.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00. There have been many reasons to get excited this year, and one of them has been the success of Winosfera. You may think wine is the main talking point here, but actually, it’s the chef: Jakub Admaczyk, an upcoming star who studied his trade in Michelin mainstay The Square. His menu is scintillating: ordering the beef tenderloin is a must, as is the rhubarb parfait. You’ll be happy to pay the heavy handed prices. $$$ Wootwórnia ul. Królowej Aldony 5, tel. 603 697 259.

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RESTAURANTS Open 10:00-22:00. The intimate Wootwórnia features a spontaneous menu whose principal consistency is an adherence to the motto of the owners: ‘eat well’. Offering a full urban chillout experience, perhaps the most celebrate element of this notable venue comes in the shape of the homemade pies. $

ITALIAN Bacio ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 83 03, www.bacio.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. New look Bacio has been decluttered and simplified and now features a stripped down look and a menu that peaks with the duck in red wine risotto. Portions are huge, and are matched by a quality that’s seen this once ailing giant reinstalled as one of the top eats in town. $$ Bistro Toscana ul. Zwycięzców 28, tel. 22 672 9967, www.bistrotoscana.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:30-22:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00. A classic neighborhood Italian with a friendly air and the standard rundown of items: spaghetti, penne, gnocchi etc. That all contributes to building a healthy set of repeat customers. $$

Capri ul. Ostrabramska 75C (Promenada), tel. 22 611 3737, www.restauracjacapri.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-20:00. Long and narrow, Capri has a bijou sense of

intimacy – which is just as well, you’re on the top floor of a mall. The menu is standard Italian with the only surprise being the very decent prices. If you’re in the Promenada Mall, it’s definitely a cut above all the other immediate choices. $$

harvests of the season. The house specialises chiefly in Italian labels whose price tags range from “what a deal!” to “worth it for a celebrity splurge.” The minimalsitic rustic interior is just the right spot after a stroll in the neighboring Old Town. $$

Carpaccio ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 692 4726. The Italian influence looms heavy here: the Italian owner patrols the restaurant floor, while Carmelo, a Sicilian, ensures nothing but excellence exits the wood-fired pizza oven. The quality of the hams is undisputed, as a try of the Parma ham bruschetta immediately proves. $$

Kotłownia ul. Suzina 8, tel. 22 833 23 27. Open 13:00last guest. You’d never guess from the grey surrounds but Kotłownia is one of the emerging stars of Warsaw dining. Set in a historic disused boiler house (the Warsaw Uprising started right outside!) a generous helping of wooden touches warm the split level industrial interiors, but it’s the food that steals the show. The modern Italian menu reflects the owner’s passion for Italy, as does the handpicked wine list. The convivial atmosphere makes it perfect for a long, lazy lunch. $$

Delizia ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, www.delizia.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0022:00. The reasons for Delizia’s success are twofold: Luca and Lorenzo. Luca’s the front man, a charismatic chap and natural showman. In his hands, you’ll feel like a star. Then there’s Lorenzo, the chef out the back. Between the pair of them they’ve turned this tiny little venue into Warsaw’s most convincing Italian enterprise. Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, tasteful interiors and brilliant food: what more do you need? $$ Enoteka ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 635 5510, www. enotekapolska.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0024:00; Sun 14:00-22:00. The menu is updated quarterly and beefed up with the

La Bufala ul. Sienna 86. Open 10:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00. On the right day you’ll find the ex-pat proprietors of Warsaw’s more refined Italian eateries using this for their pizza fix. It might not look like much, but its reputation speaks for itself. $ La Tomatina ul. Krucza 47. Open Sun-Thurs 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00. Calamitous, slapstick service and accusations pointing to the overuse of readymade ingredients shouldn’t detract from splendid pizzas served in a modern interiors of stark white walls and concrete floors. The spicy tiger prawn spaghetti is also

ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 97 07 www.cesarski-palac.com.pl Cesarski Palace has thrived in Warsaw for 18 years – from the outset we were the first to offer authentic Chinese dishes, including our signature Peking Duck which comes baked in a custom-made oven and served with pancakes, cucumbers, por and a special sauce. Expect personalized service and special attention from the chef inside a restaurant sensitive to Feng Shui requirements. There’s nothing comparable to our perfect tastes!

WARSAW INSIDER | OCTOBER 2013

A Place to Relish

Burgers were the big food story of 2012. But just as we’d worked out the villains and heroes, along came Tomek Wozniak and his brainwave creation: Burger Kitchen. BY ALEX WEBBER

T PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARCIN KLABAN

he Place “Remember those 1960s American cop movies,” asks Wozniak. “I wanted that kind of atmosphere, mixed up with a Paris bistro, flavors of London’s Soho and a Manhattan loft.” It sounds unlikely, but that’s what’s been achieved. BK is a mesh of styles that all seem to naturally combine together. United by a raw concrete look and a chattery buzz, it feels fresh, original and easygoing. Even before the burgers roll out, you love it straight off. The Meat “Fast food should not mean bad food,” announces Wozniak, and it’s a point on which he clearly means business. Using Hereford and Scottish Angus, the beef here is matured for six to eight days, and hand-formed each day. “We have a responsibility to our customers,” he says, “our ingredients aren’t from a discount shop – these cows eat grass, not chemicals.” And oh yes, these are indeed tasty creatures: maddeningly juicy, and with light hints of pink. And, in the kitchen, there’s a fair bit of experimenting: watch for ‘one off’ and ‘seasonal’ offers like the mango and shrimp burger, Moroccan burger, meatball burger, etc. The list could go on for a few pages more. The Bun Making use of a local artisan bakery, the buns here are crispy on the outside, soft on the inside – they feel light and fluffy, almost like a brioche, but subtle enough not to interfere with the taste of the burger. But the real talking point is the part the bread plays in the construction of the burger. These are miracle burgers that don’t fall apart! “We tested them for two months,” says Wozniak, “my friends were my lab rats! We squeezed them, we dropped them, it was almost like physics!” The result is an indestructible burger that leaves no heap of gunge. The Ketchup They could have easily settled for the

squeezy stuff from good old Henry J. Heinz. Instead, Burger Kitchen have their own brand tomato ketchup and jalapeno ketchup. Made using 25 Italian tomatoes per bottle, first run saw 3,000 bottles off the production line. It went so quickly they’re now on their second run. If you like it – and you will – they’re also available for purchase. The Shakes Drinks-wise, nothing says America more than the humble shake. And, so it goes, it wasn’t a burger experience that inspired Wozniak to launch Burger Kitchen, but a shake experience… “Four years ago I drank a peanut butter shake in New York,” says the chef, “and it was something else.” Time stood still. “After that I promised to bring this to Warsaw, even if it meant hawking them from a trolley in the street.” And yes, order Burger Kitchen’s peanut butter shake and you soon see what the fuss is about: this is seriously addictive – thick, creamy and deliciously rich. But there’s more. “We really play with our tastes,” says Wozniak, “the Oreo shake is a big seller, and we’re already thinking about seasonal ones like pumpkin for Halloween and gingerbread for Christmas.” The Rest In spite of the name, this is not merely a burger joint. The breakfasts are a nutritious and un-Warsaw affair of own-baked focaccia, omelets and thick gloopy hummus. As the clock ticks past noon, the hoisin wings are essential – served in a thick sauce that truly is finger lickin’ good: as messy as the wings are, napkins prove surplus. And sides? Don’t look beyond the courgette fries in Japanese-style tempura. Burger Kitchen ul. Widok 8, 22 464 82 84, www.burgerkitchen.pl Open Mon-Thu 7:30-23:00; Fri 7:30-1:00; Sat 9:00-1:00; Sun 9:00-20:00.

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RESTAURANTS great, even if the presentation looks like a student cooked it. $

authenticity, and there’s a medley of other ‘staples from Naples’. $

price, and it’s here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. $$$

Mąka i Woda ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87. Open Mon-Thu 12:00-15:00, 16:00-22:00; Fri 12:00-15:00, 16:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. When Michelin starred chef Wojciech Amaro pops in with his family you know something is going right. Here the statement piece is a Stefano Ferrara Napoli oven, used to maximum effect to create pizzas which have come to be considered Warsaw’s best. Import ingredients like Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and Caputo flour add to the

Mamma Marietta ul. Wołoska 74A, tel. 22 880 0071. Open 12:00-22:00. Famed in ex-pat circles, head chef Andrea (formerly of Da Aldo) has created a bright bijou eatery that’s openly regarded as one of the finest and most authentic Italian experiences in Poland. The seafood has a particularly stellar reputation, as does the smattering of Sicilian dishes. $$

Superiore ul. Piękna 28/34, tel. 506 404 059, www. superiorewinebar.pl. Mon-Sun 12:00-10:00. A hybrid wine shop, deli and restaurant, with an owner who prefers to think about the enjoyment of your dining experience rather than his cash till. The veal pasta is the bestselling dish here for very good reason. $$

JASNA 24 was created for all those who don’t only appreciate excellent food, refined drinks and elegant spaces, but also a dash of flavor from the world of art and culture. We have live music every Wednesday, a comfortable atmosphere, magnificent cocktails and a modern, contemporary menu.

Mezzo Italian Steakhouse ul. Sienkiewicza 5 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 756 3343. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-22:00. Tucked at the tip of Konstancin’s park, Mezzo’s wood-burning brick pizza oven constructed in the garden gets all the thumbs up. Also novel to the community is a chance to enjoy top-notch beef – using filet from Poland and T-bones from Irish Hereford cattle, Mezzo’s newly designed kitchen uses a lava grill to ensure excellence each time. $$ Nonsolo pizza ul. Grójecka 28/30, tel. 22 824 1273. Open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00. Basic but modern looking: can be described as ‘cutprice cosmopolitan’. The kitchen takes Stage Center, and a stage it is – amateur theatrics are sometimes part of the bill. A staggering choice of pizzas await (we counted 48, but might have got it wrong), and while they’re pretty decent it’s a while since Nonsolo was talked about as being Warsaw’s best pie. $ Parmizzano’s Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306. Open 12:00-23:00. The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant. Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$ Ristorante San Lorenzo

Restaurant: Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-20:00 Drink Bar: Fri-Sat 17:00-last guest ul. Jasna 24 tel. 22 447 24 41 restauracja@jasna24.pl, www.jasna24.pl

Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, www.sanlorenzo.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill. The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the

WARSAW INSIDER | OCTOBER 2013

Sorbo Serpico ul. Wilcza 8, tel. 604 131 721. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. Heavy interiors clotted with figurines and flowers hark back to the restaurant’s previous incarnation as Bacio Angelo. The menu though has had an update, and contains a decent bruschetta starter, and a wonderful steak in green pepper sauce. More changes are promised, making this one to keep an eye on. $$ The Olive Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6706. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, lunch 12:00-16:00; Sat & Sun 7:30-10:30, lunch 12:30-16:30. Bursting with seasonal fruits and veggies, it’s a fresh, fun place to eat. Business lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30. Hot and cold buffet for zł.90. $$$ Trattoria Rucola na Miodowej ul. Miodowa 1, tel. 888 574 4357, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Firmly established in Saska, Ruccola have expanded to cover the West side. The M.O is very much the same, with huge wall prints of verdant forest scenes, and a menu that impresses across the board – the pizza in particular gets our seal of approval. $ Vapiano Al. Jerozolimskie 63 & ul. Taśmowa 7, www. vapiano.de/pl. Here’s one chain brand that is worth the hype. Featuring a chic look rounded out with Ferrari red colors, the thin crust pizza earns its spurs, and the pasta combinations are great. $$ Venti-tre ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel), tel. 22 558 1094. Open 6:30-23:00. The high class confines of the Hyatt are the home of Venti Tre, a contemporary restaurant with an open kitchen, and a Mediterranean inspired menu constructed using carefully sourced ingredients from local suppliers. The results are outstanding. $$$

JAPANESE & SUSHI Hana Sushi al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), www.hanasushi. pl. Dated decor of bamboo shoots and bonsai trees is made to look good by dreadful service and irritating elevator music. But it’s hard to dislike Hana – the ‘gunkan special’ is out of this world. $$ Inaba ul. Nowogrodzka 84/86, tel. 22 622 5955, www.inaba.pl. Open 12:00-23:00 (kitchen closes at 22:00). Located in an office building, this place is surprisingly quiet. The miso soup will have you licking your bowl and the sashimi and sushi sets are perfect. It's an old-timer, but it's still up there as a real contender. $$ Izumi Sushi ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825 7950, www.izumisushi.eu. Open daily 12:00last guest last guest. Also on Biały Kamień 4. The original location never ceases to amaze with its sushi, though it’s the addition on Biały Kamień that really gets people talking. Here it’s not just the food that wows, but the interiors: a huge venue whose open plan doubles as an indoor forest – you need to see it to believe it. $$ Ou Sushi ul. Domaniewska 17/19, tel. 22 847 16 63, www.ousushi.pl. Open 12:00-21:00. There can never be enough sushi in Warsaw, not least when it’s this good. The temaki rolls are outstanding. $$

Ryż i Ryba ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4150, www. ryzirybapl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00. The art of sushi is given a new lease of life in this Piękna newbie. The flavors are a revelation, making it more than just a stop-off for passing office workers. $$ Sakana Sushi Bar ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0055; ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, www.sakana.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. If there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, it was Sakana. Many claim it’s the best in the city, a stand that’s hard to dispute. Practice nimble chopstick moves among other aficionados while sushi rolls sail by on tiny, little boats. $$ Sushi Club ul. Stawki 3, tel. 22 114 1414. Open 12:00-

23:00. A couple of dining rooms to choose from, including one found in a restorative salt cave. The lack of English on the menu may leave you bamboo-zled, but the overall quality is rewarding. We return for the salmon nigri and tuna hosomaki. $$ Sushi Marina-Mokotów ul. Warowna 1, tel. 493 0302. Open 12:0022:00. Since its heyday in the 00s sushi has been in decline in Warsaw – well, no-one told Marina-Mokotów, and it’s a good job as well. Completely creative in its offer, this isn’t just another Wa-wa sushi joint. Elaborate rolls are built with forensic precision using the freshest of ingredients. In a place like this, it’s easy to fall in love with sushi all over again. $$ Sushi Zushi ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, www.sushizushi.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:0023:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. The No. 1 ex-pat choice, so it seems, with a front cover crowd who could model for Elle. Survey the slicing skills of the sushi chefs from stools by the moat, and don’t shy away from their more creative inventions – find fish, fruit and cheese inside their Class A rolls. $$ Tekeda Sushi & Wok ul. Freta 18, tel. 600 351 818, www. sushitekeda.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. In an area plagued by tourist rip-offs, Tekeda get it right with a good balance of sushi and wok dishes. The grilled maki is particularly pleasing. $$ Tomo ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, www.tomo.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Excellent. While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$

JEWISH Pod Samsonem ul. Freta 3/5, tel 22 832 1788, www.podsamsonem.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. Operating since the 1950s – crazy when you think about it. This is the place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The menu mixes aspects of Polish and Jewish cooking, and fails to do a good job of either. Entertainment is provided by the staff: find them frequently at war with the people they serve. $

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RESTAURANTS LATIN & MEXICAN Aioli ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 1020, www.aioli-cantine.com. Open 9:00-last guest. A jaunty Mediterranean space with hanging hocks of ham and long communal tables. Aioli’s breakfast, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas all seem decent enough, but you can’t help wonder why it’s struck a chord with the public – it’s fine as an evening out, but nothing hugely memorable. $$ Blue Cactus ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, www.bluecactus.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:0023:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. The Cactus has been around for aeons, but such was its fall from grace people had started referring to in the past tense. Enter new executive chef, Californian Patrick Hanna. Combining the barbecuing techniques of the southern states with the humble but potent tastes of Northern Mexico, It’s not back to its best, it’s better than that. $$

Casa Pablo ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5782. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-18:00. Set to the flank of a glinting office building, Casa Pablo touts an interesting design composed of tartan colors, upturned wine crates and a mirror that we’re told is over a century old. But if you think that’s interesting, then take a look at the menu. Modeled round the ‘creative Spanish’ movement, dishes include scallop carpaccio with foie gras, and a duck breast burger with Mahon cheese, raspberry ketchup and truffle sauce. Servings are small and precise, but even so, we like what we see. $$ Dos Tacos Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, tel. 22 243 4618, www.dostacos.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-24:00. Adorned with Aztec murals and cartoonish finishes, cheerful Dos Tacos belies its office block location. With an increasing amount of American custom, some have even

gone as far as to call it Warsaw’s best Mexican. Either way, the burritos are grand and the sauces peerless: beginners should order the salsa set, a great mix that ranges from tasty to volcanic. $ Ole Tapas ul. Bracka 2, tel. 519 875 767, www.ole-restaurant.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. A dual level wine bar and restaurant with a modern spirit and a Flamenco vibe. Don’t let the name fool you: while the tapas are good, it’s the steak most people come for. Choice here includes aged Spanish beef and Kobe cow. $$ Spoco Loco ul. Sarmacka 10, tel. 887 447 447, www.spocoloco.pl. Open 11:00-21:00. Also ul. Francuska 8. Open 12:00-22:00. See Wilanów section, p. 31 to p. 33. Tex Mex ul. Zwycieczów 11. Open Mon-Sat 10:0022:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. Featuring a street level take out window and a glum looking

ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel. 22 465 83 20 www.dawnesmaki.pl

WARSAW INSIDER | OCTOBER 2013

basement, Tex Mex is a crushing experience where everything from the tortillas to the salsa taste like something you’d pick up in a supermarket. And, yay Gods, there’s the obligatory dollop of Polski-style salad loaded with gherkins. $ The Mexican ul. Podwale 29, tel. 22 635 3232, www.mexican.pl. Everything Mexican food shouldn’t be. There’s zero zing, and no matter what you order anticipate mysterious gloop with lots of mashed cabbage. It’s all such a shame, because with its burbling fountain and courtyard location The Mexican looks like it could be the real deal. Find their latest imposter hawking for custom on Zgoda 6. $$ Warsaw Tortilla Factory ul. Wilcza 46 (entrance from ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 8622, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Hefty portions, freshly made tortillas and salsas that will rattle your brain are the core principles here. But don’t think of WTF as a mere restaurant. This ex-pat haven

has it all, from live sports, bands and a party atmosphere that drags long into the night. $$

MIDDLE EASTERN Le Cedre Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, www.lecedre.pl. Open daily 11:0023:00. With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$

Le Cedre 84 Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, www.lecedre.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Deep plum colors work well creating a warm, engaging ambience, and we recommend turning up with a group of friends and splitting

the Baalbak (six cold starters) or Byblos (six hot starters) menu. Aside from a candid A-Z of Lebanese cuisine, it’s a great opportunity to cover the tables with fancy little plates before causing a right mess as you share and share alike. It’s that sort of place: a restaurant that promotes social interaction amongst its diverse range of diners. $$ Sokotra ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. Just what you didn’t expect – a restaurant specializing in the food of Yemen. Featuring lots of spicy meat dishes, and a few Indian-style offerings as well, here’s a fantastic spot that arouses curiosity and taste buds alike. The interiors are snug and pleasant, and not short on surprises – e.g. a concrete telephone pole adorned with potted plants. $$

POLISH Ale Gloria Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080,

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RESTAURANTS www.alegloria.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$ Amber Room at the Sobański Palace Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, www.amberroom.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:0022:00; Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 12:00-20:00. The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure. Chef Robert Skubisz has excelled himself in creating a menu that injects upmarket Polish dishes with contemporary flair. Set inside a majestic mansion, the recommendation they’ve received from Michelin is justly deserved. $$$

Atelier Amaro ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, www.aterlieramaro.pl. Open 12:00-15:00; 18:00-22:30. The recipient of Poland’s first Michelin star, Atelier has no rival – this is the best restaurant in the country, bar none. Find a tasting menu of slow food enhanced by modern techniques (e.g. blasts of nitrogen), with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre molecular interludes (aloe leaves, twigs, etc.). Don’t miss the bespoke vodka menu, either. It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of chef Wojciech Amaro. BEST Reservations mandatory. $$$ WAWA 2012 “Contemporary Polish” Winner, New Restaurant” Winner, “Best Chef” Winner

Bazyliszek Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831 1841, www.bazyliszek.waw.pl. Open 11:00-24:00. Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant. Now though it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen. $ Belvedere Restaurant (F8) ul. Agrykoli 1, (entrance from ul. Parkowa), tel. 22 558 6700, www.belvedere.com.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Set in an atmospheric greenhouse, known as the ‘New Orangery’ in the Royal Łazienki Park,

“ It’s a breezy, laidback restaurant, one where conversation flows as freely as the wine”

Insider Pick Sorbo Serpico ul. Wilcza 8, tel. 604 131 721. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00.

ilcza 8 will always, to me, hold memories of the previous tenant: Bacio di Angelo. When it opened it was considered one of the better Italian restaurants, and famed for its flamboyant interior of flowery frills. It was a place where cupid met cooking. But as the years went by, what had looked like a romantic box of secrets was starting to look tired and weary: some, even, may have likened it to Dr. Lecter’s creepy storage unit. Under new management, gone is the enigmatic clutter. No more are the baubles and paintings, cherubs and plant life. De-cluttered and pared down, Sorbo Serpico exorcizes the spirit of Angelo with a simplified setting that’s easy on the eye. Treading down the tiled steps, guests are met with an earthy looking trattoria setting: white walls, some vibrant artwork, etc. It doesn’t look particularly edgy (one room, we kid you not, is styled like an underwater

WARSAW INSIDER | OCTOBER 2013

grotto), but it feels comfortable in its own skin. And that honest charm is contagious: it’s a breezy, laidback restaurant, one where conversation flows as freely as the wine. The food is simple, classic cuisine: there’s nothing showy or artistic in the presentation of my steak, as quite honestly there’s no need – on the outside, it’s perfectly seared, on the inside, it’s blush colored pink. Meat of this quality doesn’t need added flavor, so instead I utilize the green pepper sauce for the veg: it’s a deep, soupy condiment that feels rich and right. In short, I’m pleased. And so too is my partner: the linguine and shrimps get a firm seal of approval, with the fresh chili adding an extra complexity to what could otherwise be a pedestrian choice. After such a positive opening salvo, we expect excellence for dessert. We’re not disappointed: my lemon cake is everything I want – sweet but delicate and with a sprinkle of pistachios. I get the feeling I should linger over it, savouring its taste. Instead I demolish it before The Other Half finds an opportunity to thieve some. But she’s busy herself: white chocolate mousse. It’s deeply chilled, and more like an ice cream in nature, but in spite of this breach of the Trade Descriptions Act, my dinner date is delighted. And that, just about sums up the evening. In a city fixated with trends and fancy fashions Sorbo Serpico is a triumphant return to basics. (AW)

this landmark fine dining establishment features renditions of Polish, European and Nouvelle Cuisine, within elegant red, gold and black interiors. $$$ Biała Gęś ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, www.bialages.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. All the props and staff of its predecessor (Tradycja Polska) are present, with the conspicuous add-on being flocks of white geese. And indeed, goose is the big draw here – these guys can fix you a whole bird if you book in advance (zł. 490 for four). As can be said of all places bearing Magda Gessler’s initials, the desserts are something else. $$$ Bistro Warszawa ul. Jezuicka 1, tel. 22 635 3769, www.bistrowarszawa.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. The menu cites pre-war recipe books as its influence, and on it you’ll find such dishes as goose in thyme sauce with pear and zucchini. The interiors are strictly contemporary though, with vanilla colored furnishings, wine racks and walls papered with hundreds of theater scripts and book pages. Regular jazz performances draw people city-wide. $$

Chłopskie Jadło pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1717; ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, tel. 22 827 0351. A nationwide chain enterprise designed to mimic a peasant inn, what with all the clunky pots and rustic supplements. And if it’s farmers fare you’re after then the food

isn’t bad either, with thick, lumpy servings of countryside classics and soup presented in bread. Twenty-something Poles cringe at such a representation of their country, but there’s no denying it: it’s an accurate caricature of a mountain-slope karczma. $ Dawne Smaki ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel. 22 465 83 20, www. dawnesmaki.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00. At last, a proper restaurant on Nowy Świat! The interiors hark to the past, while the back garden promises an oasis-like experience. Chef Michał Bajerski, formerly of Regina Hotel, wraps it up nicely with a fantastic menu that modernizes traditional Polish recipes. Recommended: deer steak. $$ Delicja Polska ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 45, tel. 22 826 4770, www.delicjapolska.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. It’s one of those few places where the food is fabulous, service efficient and discreet and the interior reminiscent of a fairytale dining room. $$ Dom Polski ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, www.restauracjadompolski.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Built for moments when nothing but the best will do. Prices are premium, but this piece of high society features an aristocratic temperament and fine Polish cuisine served with an elegant flourish. $$$ Folk Gospoda ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605,

www.folkgospoda.pl. Open 12:00-midnight. Clad in heavy wood furniture, it’s akin to happening on a log mountain cabin. Quaint, cute and charming, Folk Gospoda trades sophistication and other Warsaw values in exchange for a hearty style that recalls village life. The menu, presented by waiters dressed like Zakopane tinkers, is a sturdy affair and promises all the dishes expected of a traditional banquet. Mains are a manly affair (solid, meaty and served in generous portions), while the chłodnik is, says one Polish associate, “the best I’ve ever had”. $$ Inn Under the Red Hog ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, www.czerwonywieprz.pl. Open daily 12:0024:00. Recently voted as one of the 25 most interesting restaurants in the world! And we’re not surprised – bathed in red banners and propaganda paintings, the Red Hog is your one stop shop for some socialist socializing: while Marx and Co. never actually ate here (as their menu claims), lads like Bruce Willis and Lennox Lewis have. The menu is comically split between dishes for the proletariat and for dignitaries, and is an experience in itself. $$ Kameralna ul. Foksal 11, tel. 887 878 731. Open 12:0024:00. You want to like Kameralna, and the Insider certainly does – as a brewery. As a restaurant, however, it simply doesn’t work. Stodgy food, small portions, plain tastes: but what do you expect from a restaurant inspired by 50s / 60s commie-era Poland. $

Authentic Mexican food, great margaritas, tequila and a hot atmosphere! Made using the best ingredients, nobody does Mexican food better! Bienvenidos Amigos!!!

Al. Jerozolimskie 123A (Millennium Plaza), tel. 22 243 4618, www.dostacos.pl www.facebook.com/DosTacos.MexicanGrill

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RESTAURANTS Karpielówka ul. Indiry Gandhi 11, tel. 22 644 85 10. Open 12:00-last guest. Reminiscent of a mountain karczma this restaurant prides itself on a thorough offer of simple, traditional food inside lively cabin-style interiors. $$ Kuchnia Funkcjonalna ul. Jakubowska 16 (enter from ul. Estońska), tel. 512 893 898. Open 11:00-23:00. Snuck inside one of Saska’s definitive modernist buildings, the opening of Kuchnia has made slow food accessible to all wallets. Venison from the Bieszczady Mountains, dairy products from Jersey cattle milk, and the use of goose fat instead of butter are just a few noteworthy characteristics; the frequently changing menu reflects the commitment to nature. The ascetic design is softened by a cast-iron stove and moody lighting, giving the restaurant a warm, summer glow. $$ Pierrogeria Pl. Konstytucji 2, tel. 22 743 7644, www.pierrogeria.eu. Open 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. A jolly, busy restaurant that sees it all: from busloads of tourists, to locals who recognize this as the great deal it is. Pierogi are the forte, obviously, though the emphasis on fresh and natural ingredients extends all the way down to the drinks: there’s even Polish ecological wine. $ Podwale Piwna Kompania ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635-6314, www.podwale25.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-01:00. Set through a courtyard that replicates a Mitteleuropa square, Podwale has a beer hall atmosphere that’s further exaggerated when mountain bands circulate. Food is of average standard and served in portions that are obscene – finishing the wooden platters can be seriously traumatic. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. $ Polka ul. Świętojańska 2, www.restauracjapolka.pl, tel. 22 635 3535. Open 12:00-23:00. Colorful pastel interiors inspired by Polish folk art set the tone for this place. The servings are small, but the food is top notch. $$ Prasowy ul. Marszałkowska 10/16. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-19:00. Prasowy’s story dates from 1954 when it first opened as a feeding station for the local proletariat.

Following a sensitive refit that retained much of its original milk bar spirit, Prasowy returned over summer, and specializes in exactly what it did before: honest, simple food for the everyman. $ Restauracja Pod Gigantami Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, www.podgigantami.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Despite being judged worthy of a recommendation by the scouts at Michelin, Pod Gigantami divides local opinion; it’s not just the Insider that’s found the food only satisfactory. But the wine list impresses, as do the painfully ornate turn-of-the-century interiors. $$$ Restauracja Polska “Różana” ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, www.restauracjarozana.com.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Touting a refined, baronial setting, Rożana has starchy white linen, floral pieces and flickering candles, giving off plenty of classic charm in the best possible taste. With indulgent mains such as farmhouse duck with apple and cranberry, or saddle of venison with homemade pickle, this is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the BEST WAWA 2012 “Polish top table. $$ with Style” Winner U Fukiera Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, www.ufukiera.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. This townhouse has 500 years of history behind it, during which time bills have been settled by princes and presidents, models and musicians. Reminiscent of a stately home, this maze of enticing alcoves wins for an extravagant menu of locally sourced game. $$$ U Kucharzy ul. Ossolińskich 7, tel. 22 826 7936, www.gessler.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. You’re in the thick of the action here, with dining conducted in the former kitchen of the historic Hotel Europejski – once the most luxurious hotel in the Tsarist Empire. The atmosphere is one of orchestrated chaos, and the chefs love a bit of showmanship: expect Ramsay-style tantrums sometimes inches from your face. The steak tartar is rated across town, though standards have slipped considerably BEST WAWA 2012 in recent times. $$ “Welcome to Poland” Winner U Szwejka pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, www.uszwejka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00;

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Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-24:00. Named after fictional Czech soldier Szwejk, the food here would certainly appeal to the tubby man himself. Bestowed with Prague street signs, the food is a hardy, meaty affair, and arrives in XXXL portions. The price to quantity (Note: not quality) ratio guarantees queues (yes, queues) that stretch out on the street every weekend. $$

Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, ul. Podwale 1, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, ul. Wańkowicza 1, www.zapiecek.eu. Open 11:00-22:00. Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $

SCANDINAVIAN Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256. Open Mon-Fri: 8:00-21:30; Sat-Sun 9:0021:30. The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food? There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food (no microwave oven at Nabo), with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. Fantastic. BEST WAWA 2012 “Most Kid Friendly $$ Restaurant” Winner

SPECIALTY FOOD SHOPS African Shop ul. Andersa 27, tel. 507 247 292, www.afroeuro. eu. Beans, beverages, flour and soup thickeners. Hair products and cosmetics also available, and they promise to be bringing in Abyssinian coffee in the near future as well. ‘’Excellent,’’ gushes one Zimbabwean connection. Bio Bazar ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855,

www.biobazar.org.pl. Open Sat 8:00-17:00. Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands. British Shop ul. Emilii Plater 8, tel. 692 240 804. British food and beverages inc. cider, bacon, sausages, gluten free ready meals, confectionary etc. Run by the same team who once operated Fish & Chips on Koszykowa, the offer has now expanded to cover non-food items inc. Royal Wedding souvenirs, England football paraphernalia etc. Food & Joy ul. Nowy Świat 7, www.foodandjoy.eu. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-17:00. A new, upmarket deli chain from the same team behind Krakowski Kredens and Alma. Hala Koszyki ul. Koszykowa 63. Open Tue-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-20:00; Sun 9:00-17:00. This charming neo-Gothic pile of bricks hosts one of the quaintest little bazaars Warsaw’s ever seen. On the ground floor, there’s a fantastic butcher’s and fruit out back. Upstairs, cold cuts, Greek seafood, cheese, a juice bar and Warsaw’s best cakes. Repeat after me: Warsaw’s best cakes.

Heritage ul. Mokotowska 17, tel. 22 857 0912. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 9:0022:00. Some people use Heritage as a wine bar, while others see it as more than that. And so it is. Peruse the Italian hams and cheeses in their fridge, olive oils, sauces and of course wine. Lots and lots of wine. Krakowski Kredens Various locations across town, check their website for details: www.krakowskikredens. pl. Jams, syrups, honey and preserves, as well as fantastic hams and kiełbasa from the Galicia region.

20:00; Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; Sun 11:30-16:00. Top quality cheeses produced by small, artisan producers from England, the major regions of France as well as several other countries. Also, grourmet specialities like Italian parma ham, Spanish chorizo, French sausages, and hard-to-find luxury brands from France, Italy, Greece and more. La Petite France ul. Zwycięzców 28, tel. 22 672 9646, www.lapetitefrance.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:3018:00. Wine and cheese as well as canned and tinned foods from France. Le Diplomat ul. Meksykańska 6, tel. 22 616 0539. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-15:00. Long regarded as the best butcher in town, as well as the number one source for lamb. Le Targ ul. Królowej Aldony 5 and various locations. Open Thu 11:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-18:00 (but check for updates). Find here a rather random array of products: stands display traditional meats, goat’s cheeses, unconventional preserves, Greek products, vegan ingredients… it all still seems a bit like a work in progress. The initiative is noble, however. Little India ul. Domaniewska 22/5, tel. 22 843 6738, www.littleindia.pl. The definitive Indian store which doesn’t look anything more than a pokey neighborhood store. They’ve got it all mind, from oils, beans, lentils and flour, not to mention ready meals, canned goods and cosmetics. Internet ordering available. Maho al. Krakowska 240/242, tel. 22 609 1548, www. maho.com.pl. An excellent German-run Turkish restaurant that also doubles as a butcher: halal certified beef, veal, lamb and poultry.

Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul. Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, www.marks-and-spencer.com.pl. Visit the Kuchnie Świata Marszałkowska location to take advantage Various locations, www.kuchnieswiata.com. of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice pl. The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer diminishes the later it gets. Aside from baked that includes food and drinks from across the goods, find an excellent frozen food section, globe. The choice is vast. Internet ordering as well as an off-license, tinned goods, ready now also available. meals, confectionary and preserves. La Fromagerie ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 465 2324, www.lafromagerie.pl. Open Mon-Thur 9:00-

Bistro Piękna ul. Piękna 20 00-549 Warszawa Tel. +48 22 627 41 51 piekna@jazzone.pl www.jazzone.pl

Martin’s Good Meat ul. Przejazd 4, tel. 797 866 131. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 9:00-14:00. Angus, Hereford

NU NU NU ul. Żurawia 6/12 00-503 Warszawa Tel. +48 22 621 89 89 nu@jazzone.pl, www.jazzone.pl facebook.com/warsawinsider

RESTAURANTS and Limousine beef, not to mention lamb, veal and seasoned steaks. A candidate for Warsaw’s best butchery, no less! Namaste India ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Not just an excellent take-away, but also a small deli selling herbs and spices, ready meals, drinks and even Indian toiletries. Nowy Targ in Nowy Teatr ul. Madalińskiego 10/16. Open Sat 9:0015:00. Since the beginning of April Nowy Targ has been gathering local, small-scale producers, some organically certified, in a huge industrial building in the middle of Mokotów. Nowy Targ offers a plethora of things: from regional products such as oscypek and smoked meats to ready-to-eat fare (coffee, cakes, roasted sausages) to candles made from organic soy wax. Ostra Kuchnia www.ostrakuchnia.pl. A superb internet shop retailing quite literally the hottest sauces known to man: brands include Blair’s, Dave’s, El Yucateco, Mad Dog, Melinda’s and many more besides. Also sell jalapenos, chili peppers, salsas and pastes. Polish-only website, but easy to navigate and superb customer service. Papryka-Hungarian Store ul. Zwycięzców 22, tel. 22 616 0257, www.papryka-salami.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A Hungarian deli selling wine, meats, preserves and spices.

Piccola Italia & Mediterraneo Locations on ul. Emili Plater 47, ul. Egejska 17, Al. KEN 85. Over 1,700 products, inc. cheeses from Lombardy, coffee from Florence and Olives from Puglia. And not just Italian: find a BEST range of foods from Spain and France. WAWA 2012 “Gourmet Grocery” Winner Polna Market ul. Polna 13, Open Mon-Fri 7:00-19:00, Sat 7:00-17:00. Known as ‘Warsaw’s Market’ during communism, this was the place to get treasured goods from the West. Find a couple of wine stores, an outstanding butcher, and a fab produce stand selling only the freshest vegetables, but at a cost. Targ Śniadaniowy al. Wojska Polskiego. Open Sat 8:00-14:00. The idea is a bit different as it is out in the open air, on the grass, so good weather is a must. Part healthy food market, part breakfast picnic, part educational space, part chance to get your two wheeler fixed but above all, an idyllic way to spend a Saturday morning in a beautiful part of town.

COOKING SCHOOLS Cook Up Studio ul. Racławicka 99 (Fort Mokotów), tel. 22 212 89 76, www.cookup.pl. Workshops in a gorgeous cooking studio located in a redbrick fortress. Themes from March included Swedish cooking (led by the Swedish Embassy chef), knife skills and soup, with lessons

culminating in eating all that hard work. Joseph’s Culinary Studio ul. Duchnicka 3, www.jospehseeletso.pl. A familiar face from the TV, Botswanan born chef Joseph Seeletso marks a new chapter of his career with the launch of his own culinary academy. Tailor-made courses for individuals and groups are held in a custom-designed kitchen, and include cookery classes, wine tasting, dinner and the chance to learn a stack of secrets from the man himself. Scheller Academy ul. Międzynarodowa 68, tel. 22 626 80 92, www.schelleracademy.pl. Instantly recognizable by his beret and whiskers, Swiss-born Kurt Scheller invites guests to his Saska Kępa kitchen for lessons aimed at all skill levels.

WHOLE FOODS Green Peas (D4) ul. Szpitalna 5, tel. 22 826 1985, www.greenpeas.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00. Offering vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free meals, it’s a well-rounded, health conscious offer here. Low cal and low cost inside a greenish, cafeteria style space. $ Veg Deli ul. Radna 14, tel. 516 188 136. Open 12:0022:00. Rarely has rabbit food been so enticing. Delicious soups, bagels, dals, salads and suchlike are made with only the freshest local ingredients. $

“Casual fine dining in the heart of Warsaw” ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, www.nolita.pl. For reservations: rezerwacja@nolita.pl Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30, 18:00-22:30; Sat 13:00-23:00

WARSAW INSIDER | OCTOBER 2013

Reviews: Bar Studio 65 / Plus:

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CAFÉS & WINE BARS CAFES 65 / WINE BARS 68

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Insider’s Pick

Insider writers do not accept any form of payment in return for favorable reviews.

BOW 2012 Winner........... Breakfast menu ............. Business meetings.......... Child friendly................... Delivery............................. Free wifi.............................. Romantic.......................... Vegetarian friendly...........

CAFÉS Blikle ul. Nowy Świat 33, tel. 22 826 6619, www.blikle.pl. All-day breakfast: Mon-Sat 9:00-last guest, Sun 10:00-last guest. There’s a cultured, pre-war look to Blikle, a proud cafe with a 100 year history. Famous former clients include Charles de Gaulle who had a fondness for their donuts.

Bar Studio Pl. Defilad 1, tel. 603 300 835. Open Sun-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:45.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KAROLINA KALINOWSKA

reated from the ashes of Chłodna 25, a cult café and cultural powerhouse closed due to its “disruptive” activities, Bar Studio is somewhat a continuation of the endeavor and somewhat not. Undoubtedly, the interiors are much more polished, located in the couloirs of the Palace of Culture and Science. The ascetic, modern décor is intentional – both not to compete with the fine adornment of the original walls and to break through the building’s grandiose airs. As you might recall, the Palace of Culture was a gift from the Soviet regime back in the day but remains an eyesore and unpleasant memory for many native Varsovians. The terrace area, tempting for me because of its couches and blankets, is the prime location to look on, or rather look up from below, this colossus. I, quite unpatriotically, liked that. And yes, it really is hard not to be overawed by the sheer gigantism of the Palace that looms above – and more so now, as its tower disappears in those first autumn mists. Bar Studio, just like Chlodna 25, is more than just a place to have coffee or a small bite to eat. It seamlessly slips from breakfast bar and café during the day into its more culturally active persona in the evenings, complete with a cocktail bar, concerts, film screenings, plays and political discussions – it can get intense, heated and seriously cerebral. Even though another wing of the Palace has been housing the Kinoteka cinema with its own café for a while, Studio is not an attempt to dethrone them but rather compliment their activities. Food-wise, Bar Studio makes it clear that it’s also an independent establishment, not necessarily tied to what’s going on in the theatre next door. There was a worry, when this place opened, that is location would leave Bar Studio somewhat stranded and shipwrecked in the concrete center. Those fears have been ill-founded. (KK)

Bubbleology ul. Chmielna 26, www.bubbleology.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Looking like a 26th century version of Willy Wonka’s factory (psychedelic colors, Japanese lettering, and doors marked Top Secret), this place is no ordinary café. But that’s down to the drinks, rather than the décor. ‘Bubble Tea’ is the beverage here, with an arsenal of fruit flavors made by zany lab coated staff. Bułkę przez Bibułkę ul. Puławska 24, www.bulkeprzezbibulke. pl. Open 8:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-16:00. There’s definitely a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place. Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy. Café 6/12 ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 622 5333, www.612.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-23:00. Famous for dispensing complicated fruit and vegetable smoothies, 6/12 have even introduced a full diet plan: pop-by for

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CAFÉS & WINE BARS breakfast, then grab a goodie bag packed with balanced meals and snacks for the day ahead. Being healthy has never tasted better. Or looked better for that matter; still very much the choice haunt for the in-team.

Café Iluzja ul. Narbutta 50A, tel. 698 423 738, www. cafeiluzja.pl. Open 11:00-22:00. Bathed in white and black and shades of grey, it’s an allusion to the black and white films of bygone days. The interiors as a whole were designed in a 1950s vibe and the massive armchairs are by far the best part. What more do you expect from a café inside a socialist era cinema.

HARD ROCK CAFE WARSAW IS NOW SERVING BREAKFASTS

Cafe Colombia (D5) ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 22 627 3770, www.colombiabar.pl. Open 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:0023:00. Filled with bright, primary colors and plenty of armchairs, this two level cafe follows a simple formula. Downstairs, it’s Colombia’s finest (coffee), upstairs it’s cocktails – and very tasty they are. And just to make sure they’ve got all hours covered, there’s food to enjoy either side of your beverages: barramundi, flame-grilled Argie steak etc. Café Galeria Sztuki (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 13, tel. 22 619 8109, www. caffee.stanowski.pl. Open 9:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest. Located in a restored tenement, Sztuki is defined by raw brick, whitewashed walls and antique furniture… with price tags attached. Yes, if you like the chair you’re sitting on, feel free to buy it. The summery iced lattes are divine. Café Lorentz Al. Jerozolimskie 3. Open Mon 10:00-20:00; Tue-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. Set at the front of the National Museum this place has a nice indoor area with high ceilings and minimalist decorations and a green outdoor area populated by wickers chairs and hammocks. As is the rage in Warsaw, the menu is light, natural and healthy. Cava ul. Nowy Świat 30, tel. 22 826 6427. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-24:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-24:00. Złote Tarasy (C4), ul. Złota 59, www.cava.pl. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00. A prime spot on Nowy Świat’s red carpet keeps business brisk in this high-end cafe. Premium Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee available, and best enjoyed on a seasonal terrace that can barely be bettered. Christian’s Bakerhouse ul. Książęca 6, tel. 22 628 6345. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-23:00. A top quality bakery/café/restaurant owned by celebrity chef Krystian Zalejski. Fixed up in rustic style, the ever changing menu round at Christian’s is mostly filled with Italian staples – but with a twist. Think pappardelle with roasted duck slices and rosemary.

WITH ANY BREAKFAST GET YOUR AMERICAN COFFEE FOR FREE! DRINK ALL YOU WANT!

Coffee Karma (D6) pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, tel. 22 875 8709, www.coffeekarma.eu. Open Mon-Fri 7:3022:00; Sat 9:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-22:00. Order a smoothie, switch off the phone, open the book – it’s that sort of place. Concerts and art shows figure in their repertoire,

WARSAW INSIDER | OCTOBER 2013

as does rather good coffee. But to see Coffee Karma at her best, wait for the spring terrace. Croque Madame ul. Nowy Świat 41, tel. 793 794 318. Open 8:00-22:00. A French-themed charmer with rough, white painted brickwork, distressed wooden furniture and lots of eccentric bric-a-brac to keep an eye out for. Dealing out fresh baguettes and pastries, the whole boulangerie/café concept is excellently executed. Dziurka od Klucza ul. Radna 22 881 8677. Open Mon-Sun 12:0021:00. Dziurka serves an ambiguous role as a bar, restaurant and cafe. Curious doors sit embedded on the wall, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside. Flowers, plant pots and violet splashes give it a cheerful spin, while the Italian inspired menu isn’t short on creative flair. Fawory ul. Mickiewicza 21. Open 10:00-22:00. An intimate neighborhood cafe that comes complete with mugs that announce: “Fresh Coffee Tastes Betters”. You bet it does. The smoothies and regional beers are even better though, and come served inside a white interior splashed with an awesome mural. Filtry Café (A6) ul. Niemcewicza 3, tel. 798 409 356, www.filtrycafe.blog.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-21:00. Filtry Cafe’s got great coffee, fruit shakes, cakes, and light breakfasts combined with a funky atmosphere that attracts art lovers. Francuska 30 ul. Francuska 30. Open daily 8:00-22:00. An attractive modern cafe whose primary talking point is the terrace: a colorful affair shaded by dozens of umbrellas dangling from above. Kafka Café ul. Oboźna 3, tel.22 826 0822, www.kawiarnia-kafka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Floor-toceiling glass walls, retro checkered floor tiles and rows of pre-loved books lining shelves characterize this café hotspot. They serve salads, pastas and pancakes and tote plenty of “free” factors: free wi-fi, smoke-free interiors and attitude-free waitresses. KluboKawiarnia Towarzyska ul. Zwycięzców 49, www.klubokawiarnia.net. Open 9:00-last guest. Urban cool penetrates

Saska. With an interior modeled by John Strumiłło, this 50s pavilion has an ascetic design defined by polar white interiors. Contrast is provided downstairs, with deep magenta walls and retro armchairs. Concerts, screenings and art happenings have launched it into local conscience. Koszyki ul. Koszykowa 63. Open Tue-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-20:00; Sun 9:00-17:00. Not just Warsaw’s best urban market, but also a very decent café. Set in the ceramic tiled entrance of Hala Koszyki, there’s some fabulous food squiggled on the blackboard, and that definitely includes the boeuf bourgignon. Find a raw juice stand and fruit and fish stalls in the sunny yard/ruin behind. La Lush ul. Senatorska 24. Open Mon-Fri 6:00-18:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-18:00. Lovely bread-based fare, homemade marmalades and coffee beans roasted just for them: La Lush is already something of a favorite. It closes early by Warsaw’s standards, but the times prove quite sufficient considering the menu La Vanille ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 578 2233, www.lavanille.pl. Open 8:00-20:00. In much the same way Charlotte is so much more than a bakery, La Vanille is definitely more than your standard confectioners. Thick with the scent of icing sugar, it looks sharp and sleek with glossy lifestyle mags tossed on battleship grey sofas. But it’s the counter that acts as a magnetic force, and it’s here you’ll find fantastic cupcakes of all color and flavor spread out in precise military formation. Le Chocolat ul. Żurawia 26, tel. 22 745 1071, www.lechocolat.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:0019:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. This chic emporium is the realisation of one couples desire to offer top-quality chocolates that challenge the palate of the discerning fan. Inspired by the chocolate boutiques of Paris, over twenty different brands from a dozen countries are available. Handmade pralines and truffles, displayed almost like jewels, come in a rainbow of fillings, from coconut to cherries, mint to almonds. Limoni Canteri 1952 ul. Dąbrowskiego 1. Open 8:00-22:00. Appearing as a wooden cabin in an overgrown park (someone, clear it up please), Limoni get noted for Italian gelato that’s too good

for words – join the line for tastes like cherry, plum and redcurrant, or go edgy and experimental with flavors such as salmon, tomato or basil. Magiel Café ul. Stępińska 2, tel. 22 841 0016, www.magielcafe.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:0022:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. Situated in a former laundrette, sweet looking Magiel comes crowded with rusting mangles and vintage posters advertising soaps and powders. Featuring some delicious homemade meals inspired by both the Polish and Mediterranean spirit, this place also gets noted for estoreric Polish beers, as well as a series of French wines sourced from private vineyards.

Sun 10:00-21:00. Slightly rustic in design, with wooden panels painted white and winding stairs that lead to a charming second floor. The baked goods are courtesy of baker extraordinaire Zofia Różycka, and the rest of the food offer is pretty grand as well. Its popularity with Warsaw’s mid-20s set makes it occasionally claustrophobic. Om Nom Nom ul. Lipowa 7A. Open 10:00-23:00. Looking clean, clinical but strangely warming, Om Nom Nom specialize in their own ice cream lollies: all in cutesy designs and dipped in crunchy colorful toppings. The beer is just as good, with independent Polish brewers well represented.

Mam Ochotę ul. Grójecka 75, tel. 22 667 8280, mamochote. blogspot.com. Open 9:00-24:00. A hip haven in an upcoming area this café gets cool concerts and other such events. And unlike most cafés in its genre, you don’t get the impression you’ll catch fleas from the seats. Attractive light woods and guest artwork keep this place looking fresh and fun.

Piaskownica ul. Lipowa 7A. Open 9:00-last guest; Fri-Sat 11:00-last guest. During daylight it’s a coffee bar; come nightfall beer becomes the choice of the people. Popular with college kids, find announcements like ‘Tofu Attack’ chalked on the blackboards.

Ministerstwo Kawy ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 512 091 840, www.ministerstwokawy.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Were it not for the fact MK opened after voting had closed, you’d have bet your bottom zlot this would have romped home with our ‘best café’ award. Decorated sparingly with white wall tiles and wooden floors, this newbie numbers some ace fruit drinks amongst its greater glories.

Przystanek MDM ul. Waryńskiego 9/1, tel. 509 031 062. Open 7:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-24:00. A retro themed café with its feet firmly planted in the 50s – check out the gaudy PRL armchairs and the giant black and white of pl. Konstytucji. The range of unfiltered local beers makes it that bit more than just a café.

my’o’my ul. Szpitalna 8 (enter from Górskiego), www.myomy.pl. Open Mon 11:00-22:00; Tue-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00;

Saint Honore (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 20/22, tel. 508 143 987, ul. Grzybowska 61 (Platinum Towers), www.saint-honore.

Prosta Historia ul. Francuska 24, tel. 505 277 660. Open Między Nami Mon-Fri 12:00-22:30; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:30. ul. Bracka 20, www.miedzynamicafe.com, Informal looking with its clean white finishes tel. 22 828 5417. Open Mon-Thur 10:00-23:00; and stripped wood floors, it’s an ideal spot for Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. One of a lazy weekend – and with the garden furniture Warsaw’s enduring legends, and as popular at back out, few places in Warsaw feel so naturally night as it is during the day; media types love continental. The food, it needs to be said, is it, and you’ll find them pecking on quesadilla very good indeed, with hefty steaks, multiple type snacks inside a hip, white interior. burgers and some fine desserts.

Relaks ul. Puławska 48. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; MiTo Sat 10:00-19:00; Sun 10:00-18:00. Delete ul. Waryńskiego 28, tel. 2 629 0815, www.mito. Starbucks from memory: if you take your art.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00; 9:00-23:00. coffee seriously, then no-one does it better Café, gallery, bookstore. Sure, we’ve seen that than this lot. Using a number of brewing concept before, just not done in this style. methods, the baristas here are top of their Stark white backgrounds are offset by modern trade, doing their stuff in a cool interior with a art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel. heavy retro accent.

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CAFÉS & WINE BARS pl.Open 8:00-21:00. Accept no imitation, here’s the best bakery around. And aside from fresh baguette sandwiches, find authentically French cakes, croissants and pastries. Secret Life ul. Słowackiego 15/19. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-21:00. You might already be familiar with Secret Life of Things, a fab design store on the other end of town. Now the same minds have expanded their offer to include this café, a delightful spot that opened in summer. The deckchairs outside may have gone but the hype lingers on: an eclectic design marries a Scandinavian look to an eccentric spirit, while unpasteurized beers, organic teas and a locally sourced menu do the rest. It’s a winner! Socjal ul. Foksal 18, tel. 601 318 966. Open 9:00-4:00. Looking raw, industrial and refreshingly ascetic, the principal feature of Socjal is the long communal table – who you end up talking to is down to the dice. There’s few better places to order the Prosecco and act oh so continental. Starbucks ul. Nowy Świat 62 (check website for other locations), tel. 22 829 4021, Open MonThur 7:30-21:30; Fri-Sat 7:30-23:00; Sun 9:00-21:30. It had to happen. The Starbucks invasion is well under way. First it was Nowy Świat, now the rest of Warsaw is under attack. Wars i Sawa ul. Dobra 14/16. Open Mon-Thu 10:0022:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-1:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Creaking floorboards, unfinished plastering and piles of books set the tone to this ‘culture café’. It’s exactly what you’d expect of Powiśle, and the sort of stop best enjoyed on your own with a pot of tea, a dog-eared novel and your tightest skinny jeans.

WINE BARS Ale Wino! (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00. Covertly stashed inside a courtyard, that Ale Wino’s! neighbors include fashion Tsar Robert Kupisz announce this place as the frontline of cool – as if to qualify this, find furnishings by the celebrated design brains at Studio Rygalik. Stocked with wines from 16 countries, place your trust in sommelier Adrian Litkowicz for a taste of something special.

In summer, there’s two further reasons to visit: a quiet terrace shaded by a sail, and gazpacho like we’ve never had before. Cabernet ul. Woronicza 31, tel. 22 115 13 04, www.cabernet.net.pl. Open Mon-Thu 12:0022:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-18:00. Warsaw’s appetite for the grape shows no sign of abating. The latest wine bar to hit the market has a warehouse look, a strong menu – with surprisingly modest prices – and a drinks selection of approximately 150 wines: most of which are available by the glass. Charlotte pl. Zbawiciela, tel. 22 628 4459. Open MonFri 7:00-24:00; Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 9:00-22:00. It matters not if you’re easily traumatized by the catwalk parade that is Charlotte. Open from seven on weekdays, it’s the place for a morning croissant. And if you’re armed with the latest Mac technology, all the better – join the other posers at the communal table. Located on Warsaw’s most happening roundabout, there’s no better place to indulge a hangover with a spot of eavesdropping than inside this boulangerie/wine bar. Esencja Smaku (D9) ul. Odolańska 10, tel. 22 845 0944, www.esencjasmaku.pl. A small bistro characterized by a casual décor and a laidback atmosphere. Includes a seasonal menu of light dishes. Hoża by Mondovino ul. Hoża 25, tel. 603 778 275. Successfully establishing themselves over summer, you’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak. But what is meat without wine? Complimenting the Argentine cooking of Martin Gimenez Castro is a wine list particularly dense with reds. They’re the personal selection of actor / owner Tomasz Budyta, a successful wine importer for the last 23 years. Jung & Lecker ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. 22 866 6749, www.prawdziwewina.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-18:00. J&L’s new wine bar on ul. Emilii Plater 14 offers minimalist, café-style chic. The shops’ wines are sourced directly from 15 wineries in Germany’s famed Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Rheingau and Mosel regions. The summer courtyard garden is a particular standout feature.

Heritage ul. Mokotowska 17, tel. 22 857 0912. Open

WARSAW INSIDER | OCTOBER 2013

Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 9:00-22:00. The gentrification of Zbawiciela continues with the appearance of Heritage, a place of tap wines, cobbled floors, and simple, well-thought interiors. With its crates, boxes, cans and tins, Heritage fill a binary role as a deli/wine store for an ascendant new money crowd. Mielżyński Wine Bar ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636 8709, www.mielzynski.pl. Open daily 9:00-24:00 (kitchen closes at 23:00). Retaining a fiercely loyal customer base, some argue it’s the best wine bar in Warsaw, others that it’s the best in Poland. Combining old and new world wines this pared-down warehouse is filled to bursting with crates and boxes, thought the best aspect is the verdant green square it’s centered around. Sitting outside, you ask yourself, “Am I really in Warsaw?” WinKolekcja (E10) ul. Olkuska 7, tel. 22 542 8031, www. winkolekcja.pl. Open 12.00-23.00; Sun 12.00-20.00. You can’t pick your neighbors... In WinKolekcja’s case, that means a kebab shop opposite and a bottle bank with a constant stream of street bums. But in spite of the curious location, this new wine bar/ store looks set to thrive; the wine choice is comprehensive, and the food excellent. The design has the routine look of a club class lounge area; even so, it’s a timely addition to an area not rich in options. Winosfera ul. Chłodna 29/31. Lending a lift to a sad stretch of Chłodna is Winosfera, a huge wine bar with all the requisite crates and industrial fittings – there’s even a cinema. The upside is true fine dining, and a flawless wine selection. Opened in Feb, it’s already become a much used Insider hangout. Żurawina ul. Żurawia 32, tel. 696 561 652. Open 12:00-24:00. Lacking in intimacy, this large white room gets criticized for its jarring artwork and staffing blips – in the world of wine it’s important the customer can connect to the staff: here, we felt like we were joining the SS. But both food and wine score highly, and they’ve already won a staunchly loyal following. Get your week off to a galloping start and visit on ‘Jazz Monday’s’. You’ll be joining the most beautiful people in the city.

Reviews: Przekąski Zakąski 69 / Plus:

* 6 updates

NIGHTLIFE

BARS & PUBS 69 / CLUBS 72 / GENTLEMAN’S CLUBS 74 / JAZZ CLUBS 74 / SHOT BARS 74

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Insider’s Pick

Insider writers do not accept any form of payment in return for favorable reviews

BOW 2012 Winner........... Food Served.................... Free wifi.............................. Live Music.......................... Romantic..........................

BARS & PUBS Beirut ul. Poznańska 12. Open 12:00-last guest. As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers (Noteckie, English ale, Erdinger) from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank.

Przekąski Zakąski Al. Jerozolimskie 44 (behind the Rotunda). Open 24hrs.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

ver summer Gazeta Wyborcza published a list of ‘bars that changed Warsaw’. I don’t remember it offhand, but it was a pretty on-point collection of revolutionary haunts: Charlotte, Między Nami, Chłodna, etc. In that number, I remain pretty certain Przekąski Zakąski were in there as well – and why wouldn’t they be. Opened in 2006 (doesn’t it feel longer?), this was the original shot bar – it all started here. The concept was simple: standing room only, round-the-clock hours and beers and shots at four zlots per pop – not to mention stomach lining booze bites for double that price. It became a cult. Then, inexplicably, it closed its doors in August of this year. The news hit the city’s night owls like a hook to the chin. The shock though, was short lived. Having moved into new quarters on Widok, the boys are back in town… or at least, some of them are. Conspicuous by his absence is Pan Roman. The stone faced, bow-tied guardian of PK has struck out solo and will be opening his own bar anytime soon. Yet this isn’t the only change. The old venture was steamy, chattery and thickly coated in a bawdy atmosphere through all hours of the day. The re-release is anything but. Immediately, you notice something isn’t quite right. In part, that’s down to a floor plan far larger than the fishbowl of old. Instead of rubbing shoulders and sharing banter with complete, random strangers, customers sit obediently at white-clothed tables. Hell, there’s even table service. From the main room, a network of chambers spread forth, varying in size but not in design: it’s all monochrome floors and cutlery decked tables. You could be anywhere. Granted, the outdoor marquee is more in line with the original version (cheap beer and snacks), but it feels a bit seedy, like one to avoid. Late at night, you almost expect to see trouble from the local yahoos. The sheer size of it all suggests the owner certainly envisages success. Will he get it? I get the impression that by trying to finesse the original, he’s overstepped a boundary and complicated a concept that was honest and true. Judging by the empty seats, I’m not the only one. But these are early days, and in the shape of 24hr open times and a central location, PK have a lifeline of sorts. (AW)

The British Bulldog ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, www.bbpub.pl. How fickle this city can be. The big fail of 2012. Forget that it’s the most accurate replica of a traditional British pub around, and consider instead the heinous service, fried aromas and a deserved ex-pat boycott traced to the dismissal of the original British manager.

Chmielarnia ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), www.chmielarnia.waw.pl. Open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. A subterranean space that can get loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky. Featuring a ‘tomb’ of mainstream beers, Chmielarnia may look a little basic, but it’s definitely the real deal. A peerless selection of craft beer sees 40 lagers rotated on 15 taps, and even more rare finds in the fridge: among them BrewDog, Lindemanns, and of course a comprehensive choice of experimental Polish brews. Look out for stocks of Thistly Cross.

Coctail Bar Max ul. Krucza 16/22, www.barmax.pl. With its light wood touches and fruity montages Max looks bright, cheerful and fully loaded for summer. The cocktails are often extravagant affairs that resemble a tropical jungle in condensed form.

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NIGHTLIFE Cuda Na Kiju ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, tel. 662 006 106. Open 9:00-last guest. Warsaw’s multi-tap revolution started here! Marketed at normal people – not just hipsters, for a change – this sleek space comes drenched in sunlight that comes slanting through the four glass walls. Could it be too basic? No – anything else would detract from the main attraction: the beer. About 15 taps dispense regional brews, cult indy productions as well as quirky imports from Czech, Belgium and beyond. Czeska Baszta Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego. Open TuesThurs, Sun 16:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 16:00-24:00. Set in one of those towers that props up Most Poniatowskiego, its surroundings look grim – at night even scary. Bathed in a yellowish glow, it’s actually warm and welcoming, and the reason for that soon becomes apparent: everyone is drunk! There’s 80 Czech beers to pick from, and they do more than enough to distract from the rattle and rumble of overhead trams and a swamp monster toilet.

Dubrovnik ul. Nowogrodzka 22, tel. 885 835 885, www. dubrovnik.waw.pl. Yes, Dubrovnik is a restaurant. And yes, it’s a restaurant that doesn’t promise much – set with woodsy features and mock-rustic details, it looks cheap and tacky and one to avoid. But guess what, it’s one of the first tankovy pubs in Poland! A Czech innovation, the storing system preserves the beers freshness, and even takes away the usual gassy, belchy taste of Tyskie.

Flaming & Co. Champagne Bar ul. Mokotowska 43. Open 12:00-23:00. Checkered floor tiles, pristine whites and classic pictures of the rich and famous announce Flaming. The guys look like Bond villains and the gals just like Bond girls, but don’t think it’s a closed shop. With glasses of Moet starting below zł. 50 it’s accessible to all. But forget the champagne, it’s their cocktails we love. Order oysters and BEST WAWA let the night take its course. 2012 “Cocktails” Winner Gorązcka Złota ul. Wilcza 29, tel. 22 625 6855. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-24:00; Sat 17:00-24:00. Founded in 1996, Złota’s longevity is to be admired, even if the interiors aren’t. Small, dark and a little pungent, the interiors are rendered out of little more than varnished wood and hundreds of beer coasters. But that’s the clue! The secret of their success is down to the beer. Stocking a range of regional and craft beer (Ale Browar, Pinta, Kormoran, AltenMunster, Olbracht, etc.), this unfashionable bar has an underlying honesty that makes it a success. Haka ul. Bracka 20. Open Mon-Weds 10:00-24:00; Thu-Sat 10:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. Creating a huge buzz in July, newly-opened Haka combines the talents of its three owners tp maximum effect. Kiwi Shane has created an inventive, modern menu that reinvents the term bar food, while Irishman Kevin ensures smooth running of the bar. Final glue is provided by Kasia, a glamorous wine buff with an attention for detail. An intimate space

clad in brickwork and metal, it’s a positively international effort where Perła and Baltika beer sit comfortably next to Prosecco and modern British breakfasts and tandoori chicken wraps. We love it. Kraken Rum Bar ul. Poznańska 12. Open 12:00-4:00. Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the woodsy Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The house beer rocks though. Kufle i Kapsle ul. Nowogrodzka 25, tel. 22 127 7218. Open 16:00-24:00. Ten tap and two pump beers offer a magnificent spread of daily changing beers, and the good news continues with the choice in the fridge: there’s 120 beers down there, so gamble on a rather jolly night. Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the building, and are already thick with noise, clamor and the welcome scent of beer and spillage. Kwadrat ul. Poznańska 7, www.kwadrat.waw.pl. Open 12:00-last guest; Sat 18:00-last guest; closed Sun. Chilled out and downtempo, owners Zosia and Michał have created a legend out of this dinky two room affair. There’s too many beers to recommend, though the Rowing Jack diminishes quickly for a reason. Legends ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640. Open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00, Fri 11:00-02:00, Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00. A place that just keeps growing on us; there’s a segregated smoking chamber, traditional dartboard (no stupid electronics here), Sky Sports and a menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. In charge of it all is Graham, a seasoned ex-pat with an embassy background. Małe Piwo ul. Oleandrów 4. Open 17:00-last guest. Tight trousers and flamboyant scarves are recommended in this hipster mecca, as is a triumphant drinks choice that numbers short of sixty regional beers. Design doesn’t go beyond jam jars for lights and a messy blackboard, but that’s all this place needs to work. Similar backstreet New York dive it’s

WARSAW INSIDER | OCTOBER 2013

got an effortless cool and our beer of the year: the minty flavor/raspberry hint M3. Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26. Enjoy while you can – slated for demolition in the coming years, the pavilions represent underground Warsaw at its raffish best. A low rent maze of dark, budget bars await, including the celebrated Klaps with its vibrator beer taps.

OSP Saka Kępa ul. Walecznych 74. Open 14:30-last guest. A little on the small side, the interior features several bits of Fireman Sam detritus: helmets, goggles, a uniform and some toy fire trucks (it’s in a fully functioning fire station!). A decent beer selection cools down neighborhood drinkers, not to mention decent bites which include a refreshing melon chłodnik.

Panorama Bar and Lounge Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel.22 630 6306, www.panoramabar.pl. Open Mon-Sun 18:00-02:00. An elegant

bar that would easily pass for the VIP room of a well-to-do club. A floor 40 location makes it great for a date: the sunset views are dazzling. Paradox ul. Anielewicza 2, www.paradox-cafe.pl. Open Sun-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:00. Billing themselves as a ‘sci-fi / gamers / role play asylum’ this is a cradle of geeks, nerds and people who collect serial killer memorabilia. Decorated with plastic black crows, a map of Mordor and figurines of goblins, watch as oddly attired suspects engross themselves in ‘for hire’ games with names like Hobbit and Bewoulf. Parking Bar ul. Nowogrodzka 27. Open Sun-Thu 17:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 17:00-6:00. It looks raw and ready, but then what did you expect from a place on the ground floor of a car park. Plentiful concrete, mesh fences and swinging car tire seats lend it unique characteristics, as do the drinks: the creative cocktails are served in small little jars. At times it feels a bit slow, but that changes on the weekend club nights.

Paparazzi ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 828 4219, www.paparazzi.com.pl. Open 9:00-last guest. Engage in suicidal cocktail consumption alongside high rollers and genetic miracles. Slick and smooth, Poland’s original cocktail chain continues to set the bar high with formidable cocktails (Pimm’s included!) and a smoking section that encompasses everything but the front door. Pardon To Tu Pl. Grzybowski 12/16. Open 9:00-last guest. Decorated in voluptuous brothel colors, the design involves mismatched seats, tilted lampshades and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives and other fringe dwellers. The live talent ranges from moody quartets to jazzy chanteuses, while a perfect marriage of late hours and great bottled beers helps along the enthusiastic crowd of latter day beatniks. Pies Czy Suka ul. Szpitalna 8A. Open 11:00-last guest. Monochrome gun metal grey colors are offset by a fashionable crowd attired in red

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NIGHTLIFE shoes, pink trousers and blue headphones. This clean, concrete space is speckled with plaster moldings of reindeer heads, and excels on the cocktail front. Order from an iPad menu, before settling back for cocktails made using mad scientist, molecular techniques that involve foam, vapor, beakers and other things you’d usually find in Professor Yaffle’s lab. Plan B ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 508 316 976. Open Mon-Sat 13:00-last guest; Sun 16:00-last guest. Bottled then packaged in Plan B (pl. Zbawiciela) is the very essence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome. The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic.

Przychodnia ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 827 8356. Open 12:00-24:00. Erm, so, here’s a bar themed around communist hospitals. Are you sure that’s a good idea? Order test tube shots from staff dressed like docs, before settling into an interior equipped with operating room lights, surgical utensils and a smoking room designed like a toilet. What were they thinking with this one? No idea, but it’s certainly a novelty.

Pure Sky Club ul. Złota 59 (Skylight Tower), tel. 22 250 1111, www.pureskyclub.com. Slotted on the top floor of the 22-storey Sky Tower, Pure Sky

Warsaw’s Best Craft Beer Bar!

Club offers a slice of the high life (literally and otherwise) to high society looking to mix business with pleasure inside this ‘private club’ – this is where the Top Gear lads went for their after show party. Friday is the highlight though, with their weekly London Calling event drawing dressy ex-pats looking for live entertainment. For membership, check their web. Rain by India Curry ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, www.rain.pl. What was a standard Indian restaurant has been reinvented as both a slick ‘modern Indian’ eatery and… a bar! There’s Perła on tap, and the best time to sample it is their ‘Piątek, Pakora and Perła’ happy hour: zł. 8 for a beer and pakora from 16:30 to 18:30. But the real point is made by the cocktails. They’re concocted by Konrad, a gifted mixologist whose specialties include the house signature: Frozen Rain. You won’t stop at one.

Spiskowcy Rozkoszy ul. Żurawia 47/49. Open Mon-Thur 16:0024:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00. The ground floor is an intimate space with lots of yet-to-be-famous beers and junky, antique furniture that reminds of the Boho hangouts in Kraków. But what a packed, little bar is now a packed, big bar with the opening of the basement: find a labyrinth of rooms and psychedelic toilets with pulsating lights – you soon wonder who spiked your drink. And oh, the drinks. Expect IPA and APA beers served from the six taps.

A mecca for beer enthusiasts with over 40 top Polish and international breweries represented and rotated on up to 16 beer taps. These include: Pinta, Rodenbach, Tucher, St. Austell, Ale Browar, Haust, Jan Olbracht and many more. And we’re not just about beer but quality food! Order gourmet Thai and Nepalese dishes cooked by our Nepalese chef!

CHMIELARNIA MULTI-TAP

UL. TWARDA 42 (BASEMENT LEVEL) WWW.CHMIELARNIA.WAW.PL

WARSAW INSIDER | OCTOBER 2013

Spotkanie ze Szpiegiem ul. Marszałkowska 27/35. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest. You’d usually be right to avoid a place where the main decorative element is a fridge. But when that fridge is home to umpteen beers from Poland’s best, alternative breweries you know you’re on a winner. Little more than a small, rotund room, it’s immediately likeable – it’s got the ‘artistic’ spirit of the nearby Plan B, yet none of the vomit. Syreni Śpiew ul. Szara 10A, tel. 602 773 293, www. syrenispiew.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 17:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 17:00-4:00. Housed in a 70s monster this two floor bar maintains its element of retro chic while at the same time providing a genuinely unique drinking experience. Aimed at a more mature, affluent crowd than their sister bar (Warszawa PKP Powiśle), the standout factor is a whisky menu divided up into regions of Scotland, Ireland and Japan. BEST WAWA 2012 “New Bar” Winner Warsaw Tortilla Factory ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 621 8622. Open SunThu 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00. This is the working model of the expat stronghold; they’ve got the food, the live music, a strong group of regulars and, better still, a spread of Sky Sports screens zapping in goalmouth action from across the world. Warszawa Powiśle ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B. Open Mon-Fri 7:00last guest, Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest. The prime months for this former ticketbooth are in summer when the deck chairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Seen as the hipster Center of Power, a collective bout of outrage saved them from council threatened closure earlier in the year. Not just a bar, they’re now filling a dual role as Warsaw’s one billionth burger joint.

CLUBS 1500m2 ul. Solec 18, tel. 22 628 8412. Open Fri-Sat 22:00-06:00. Set in a former printing factory, 1500m2 has been central to the rise of Powiśle. The industrial space has a real Berlin edge to it, and events range from weekend flea markets to teeth shattering, dusk-till-dawn electro events.

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NIGHTLIFE Element ul. Jasna 1, tel. 22 692 4242, www. elementclub.pl. Open Thu-Sat 22:00-6:00. With door control negotiated, clubbers slip downstairs into a blue-lit labyrinth heaving with slick, polished finishes and a thumping sound system. Marketed at the higher end of the clubbing world, there’s no shortage of temptresses gyrating around in a dense cloud of perfume. Enklawa ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 827 3151, www.enklawa.com. Open Wed-Sat 21:00-4:00. Forget internet dating, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one night confidence boost. The Eve Pl. Piłsudskiego 9 (corner of ul. Wierzbowa), tel. 22 827 5242, www.theeve.pl. Open Wed-Fri 17:00-last guest; Sat 20:00-last guest. Beauty and booty come first in The Eve, a blinged up offshoot of Platinium nearby. A cutthroat door policy ensures plenty of egos crash and die at the door, and it’s got a Bacchanalian reputation for champagne popping high jinks. Observe them through the one way mirror in the VIP room. Luzztro Al. Jerozolimskie 6, www.luztro.pl. Open Tue-Sun 23:00-last guest. Feeling

naughty? Luztro enjoys a nefarious reputation as something of a dodgy den of illicit pharmaceuticals and libertine behavior. Looking grim and grotty, this after party legend gets going at about 4 a.m. when troglodyte club creatures emerge to put the final touches to their zonked out stare. For the full tilt, teeth rattling electro experience it’s pretty hard to beat.

Meta ul. Mazowiecka 11 & ul. Foksal 21. Open 11:00-6:00. Affecting the style of a PRL era bar, these twin venues feature a raft of keepsakes leftover from the old days – right down to chains of bog paper that commonly retailed.

Coyote ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, www.coyotebar.eu. Coyote Bar marks the start of the Mazowiecka, err, strip, and features a small bar in front and then a larger room with more intimate acts of friendship taking place behind the curtain.

Platinium ul. Fredry 6, tel. 22 596 4666, www.platiniumclub.pl. Open Wed-Sat 20:00-6:00. The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/Mrs Right for Now. BEST WAWA 2012 “Rich & Pretty Club” Winner

New Orleans ul. Zgoda 11, tel. 22 826 4831, www.neworleans. pl. Open 21:00-4:00. High rollers looking to clinch a deal in unusual surrounds should consider doing so in New Orleans: a gentleman’s club with a seriously VIP dining area. Cheaper snack and sandwich options available should you prefer to spend your money on the real reason you’re here…

Sen Pszczoły ul. Ząbkowska 27/31, www.senpszczoly.pl. Open Tue-Wed 18:00-2:00; Thu-Sat 18:005:00; Sun 18:00-2:00. A dive club of legend. With the original turned to ashes (literally, it burnt down earlier in the year), the owners could have been forgiven for calling it a day. They haven’t. Instead they’ve reopened in Koneser, and unleashed Warsaw’s most surreal interior in the process: amid the heavy industrial background expect bunk bed frames, a dentist’s chair and no shortage of neon painted weirdness. Concerts are a mixed bag, and range from didgeridoo performances to inter-war songs to full-on techno that rattles the ribcage.

Playhouse Al. Solidarności 82A, www.playhouse.com.pl. Housed in a former bomb shelter, would you believe it. Now though the talk is of bombshells, namely the 57 they’ve got on their books. Like most clubs, this place features a distinctly Slavic lineup of Poles, Russians and Ukrainians.

Shot Bars Afera na Szpitalnej ul. Szpitalna 3, tel. 509 777 797. Open 10:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 24hrs. Looking light and bright this place appeals to more than just hardened alcoholics – a point proved by spot-on food home cooked by the owner’s mum. It’s young, fun and lively in swagger.

GENTLEMAN’S CLUBS

Pijalnia ul. Nowy Świat 19. Open 24hrs. Bow-tied staff serve vodka and pickles from behind a tiled bar to a crowd that gets younger as the day gets older. In quieter times, check the newspaperd walls to read up on 1980s sports reports. Warszawska Pl. Zbawiciela 5, tel. 600 121 240. Open 24hrs. When Plan B closes the hardcore head here. Little more than a grey concrete room, this newbie is winning the war as the city’s favorite shot bar, and it is a good spot to watch the latest rainbow fire.

WARSAW INSIDER | OCTOBER 2013

JAZZ Bistro na Pięknej ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4151, www.jazzone.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-24:00. A slick looking jazz spot that’s seen the benefit of a recent overhaul. Valued additions include a less austere style and what at times might feel like Warsaw’s only fireplace. Popular with a smart city crowd, keep an eye out for their live acts. Jazzarium ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 601 327 634. Open Mon-Fri 8:30-last gues; Sat 18:00-last guest. Owned by Mariusz Adamiak, Jazzarium is certainly the most serious of Warsaw’s jazz venues, with a reportoire that reflects the proprietor’s standing in the music biz. What looks like a pretty ordinary cafe, transforms the moment there’s a concert. Nu Nu Nu ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 621 8989. Open 10:00-24:00. For something a little educated take a date to Nu, a high-ceilinged effort with slick urban dashes and regular piano. The Żurawia location marks it out as a popular spot for a high-end crowd.

Reviews: American Eagle Outfitters 75

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SHOPPING ACCESSORIES 77 / FASHION 75 / SHOPPING MALLS 78

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Insider’s Pick

FASHION

EAGLE

American Eagle Outfitters Aleja Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia Shopping Mall), www.ae.com. Open Mon-Sat 10:0022:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów) Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 he eagle has landed! Or, at least, the American eagle has. That would be me, the American, swooping into Arkadia Shopping Mall to do his fall/winter clothes shopping. I’m in dire need of some new clobber to make me look good, but most importantly feel confident about dealing with the upcoming ice age. Looking for some new sweaters, jeans and a jacket and I remembered how I used to love shopping at American Eagle when I lived back in the States. They always had quality and a keen eye on the latest trends. I was in the States many years ago and the preppy look was really popular. That trend agreed with me then, but now no longer in my twenties and approaching my tubby forties, I wanted to see if American Eagle had changed to suit my matured taste, or if the preppy trend was still going strong. After being pleasantly greeted by a vixen assistant in the entrance of the store, I was delighted as I set my eyes on another kind of rack: that with the clothing. And yes, while still grounded in preppy attire, it isn’t as over the top as I remember the early noughts. Immediately, I gravitated to a shirt that was simple, well designed and made of a comfortable cotton (think Urban Outfitters). I picked it up without looking at the price, since I knew I needed it in my closet – and fair enough, there were no shocks when it came to paying: zł. 99, thank you very much. After choosing between two iconic sweaters that I both needed to have, I was pressed by my partner into picking some jeans. Now I don’t like fitting rooms, as they always pick out imperfections in my once Ricky Martin figure. So, instead, off I went to the denim chart, remembering the days when I could squeeze into skinny jeans. Well, it’s original taper for me now, but the experience went well – in fact, I loved the fit so much I bought two pairs. So there you go - winter: I’m ready for you. (SH)

American Eagle Outfitters Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C. H. Arkadia), tel. 665 625 639, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel. 665 625 718, facebook. com/AmericanEaglePoland. Open MonSat10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. American Eagle brings you high-quality, on-trend clothing and accessories inspired by a denim heritage that truly expresses individual style. Ania Kuczyńska ul. Mokotowska 61. Open Mon-Fri 12:0019:00; Sat 12:00-16:00. Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. Bizuu ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 609 888 363, www.bizuu. pl. A gorgeous, feminine collection from two talented Polish designers – including, the must need pastels of the coming season. Chiara ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. 22 376 5489. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. A solid assortment of Marc Jacobs and other top international designers such as Michael Kors and Jil Sander. The current collection is a true tribute to S/S 2012 - bright colours, florals, platform heels and wedges. Designer Secret Al. Witosa 31 (1st floor, outlet 119), CH Panorama, tel. 506 051 048, www.designersecret.pl. High end designer clothing brands at discount prices. The racks brim with women and men’s apparel from the 2008-2010 collections, with price tags that read from one third to 50% off the original price.

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SHOPPING Eleven* ul. Wilcza 11, tel. 794 347 928, www.be-eleven. pl. Open Mon-Fri 11.00-19.00; Sat 11.00-16.00 (shopping by appointment also available). Find clothing, accessories and jewelry from a carefully selected portfolio that combines up-and-coming international brands such as Sandwich and Joseph Ribkoff with the best of Poland’s flourishing fashion scene. And what better way to contemplate this eclectic mix than with a glass of wine / Frank A ul. Natolińska 3. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 12:00-15:00. The interior is painfully chic and the clothing effortlessly elegant with a minimalist edge. Stocks major brands that you can’t find anywhere else in Warsaw, from handbags from Pauric Sweeney, perfectly

fashioned tees from American Vintage and ballet flats from Bloch. Gosia Baczyńska (Praga) ul. Floriańska 6, tel. 516 133 507, www.gosiabaczynska.com.pl. This elegant boutique on the other side of the river features gorgeous, unique designer pieces. Joanna Klimas ul. Nowolipki 2, tel. 22 831 0292, www.joannaklimas.com. Open Mon-Fri 9:0020:00. One of Poland’s top fashion designers runs this boutique/showroom. Choose from the latest collections or have a dress custom made for a particular occasion. L’Aura ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 625 1680.

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Warsaw has its modest share of designer boutiques, but L’Aura is the only place in the city where you can find unique pieces from the likes of Hussein Chalayan, Dries Van Noten and Veronique Branquinho. Likus Concept Store (D3) Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 492 7409, www.likusconceptstore.pl. The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store.

Loft Fashion ul. Burakowska 5/7

“ Up an elegant winding staircase lies the ladies department, and that’s where it all really revs up”

Plac Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, tel. 22 622 14 16. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-17:00

f Mokotowska represents the heartbeat of the Polish fashion scene, then Pl. Trzech Krzyży is more Warsaw’s wider, global conscience. From the offset, though, there’s something different about Plac Trzech Krzyży 3/4, something that separates it from the other world class boutiques that line the ‘square’. Found in a pre-war tenement that towers awkwardly over its neighbors, this feels more than a boutique – it’s an immersion experience. Palm fronds in China pots, vases filled with bouquets of clattery polo sticks, piles of rugged cases and gleaming trophies create an ambiance unknown to Warsaw’s more mundane boutiques. The first level is given over to the gents, and it’s here one finds a rainbow spectrum of colors, with pride of place given over to the Ralph Lauren ‘corner’: from prim polo shirts to smart charcoal jackets (zł.

WARSAW INSIDER | OCTOBER 2013

3,565) from the black label portfolio. It is, however, the variety of the offer that impresses. Courtesy of Salvatore Ferragamo there’s man bags, wash bags, laptop cases and travel bags; Moncler are present by way of jumpers, jackets and not to mention the timely arrival of winter headgear: from caps (zł. 690), to fox fur-trim ‘pilots hats’ (zł. 1,275). Stepping round the corner, one is met by the footwear – all three of the aforementioned brands are featured, though it’s Tod’s that are the dominant entity: from classic moccasins to showy boots to their limited ‘Ferrari’ line. And that’s just the men’s section. Up an elegant winding staircase lies the ladies department, and that’s where it all really revs up. There’s an incredible collection of cashmeres, tweeds, silks and leatherwear to peruse, and while the collection’s main anchor is Ralph Lauren, there’s also ample choice provided by the same suspects as downstairs: Ferragamo, Tod’s, Moncler. And then there’s Tory Burch: from leopard print ballet pumps to shimmery silver bags. The bad part? You want to buy it all. (AW)

(2nd floor), tel. 22 636 0255, www.loft-fashion.pl. Open Mon-Fri 13:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00. Everything the businessman requires: suits, shirts, shoes and cigars. Impeccable tri-lingual service in a top location. In July you can enjoy a summer clearance with 70% off. Maciej Zień Boutique ul. Mokotowska 57, tel. 22 611 7337, www.zien.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A flagship boutique from one of the stars of Polish fashion. Check Zień Home upstairs for the ultra-designer showroom. Marks & Spencer DT Wars & Sawa, ul. Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, www.marks-and-spencer. com.pl. Open: Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. The popular British brand’s new Warsaw store sells menswear, womenswear and children’s clothing, as well as various beauty products, groceries, wines and spirits. This is its newest and largest store in Poland to date. Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, tel, 22 827 7099, office@moliera2.com, www.moliera2.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-16:00. Moliera 2 is the first place in Poland with collections of Valentino, Christian Louboutin, Salvatore Ferragamo, Ralph Lauren Collection, Herve Leger, Moncler Gamme Rouge and Balmain. Muji Arkadia Mall (lok 23 A), Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 356 1039, www.muji.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. Having first opened its doors in 1983, in Japan, Muji still retains its simple aesthetic and ethos of marrying functionality with sophistication, with products ranging from furniture, kitchenware, stationary and clothing. Check out their online store. Pinko ul. Bracka 2, tel. 22 628 5048; Promenada shopping centre, www.pinko.it. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00. Straight from Italy, this exclusive shop offers an array of chic day wear and eye-catching casual and evening clothes. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, tel. 22 622 14 16, store@plactrzechkrzyzy.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. The first Ralph

Lauren store in Poland, features not only the latest RL collections for men and women, but also labels like Tod’s, Moncler and Salvatore Ferragamo. Ready-to-wear clothes and accessories. Premiere Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4710. The boutique continues the Versace connection with a special “Versace Corner” nestled in the company of the last pieces from the Calvin Klein Collection and VJC Versace. QπШ - Robert Kupisz ul. Mokotowska 48 (courtyard), tel. 690 021 787, www.robertkupisz.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-14:00. One of Warsaw’s hottest fashion icons, and a trip here soon explains why. The exclusive, handmade garments are a guaranteed head turner, and Kupisz’s latest collection is a tribute to Americana: think disheveled cowgirls flouncing on the prairie. Redford and Grant Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, tel. 22 313 2400, www.redfordandgrant.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat: 11:00-15:00. This multibrand fashion store is the ultimate destination for designer style in Warsaw for men and women. Offers clothing and accessories from the newest collections from all the major international designers like Dior, YSL, D&G, Gucci, Miu Miu and Prada. Reykjavik District ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 501 399 222, www.reykjavikdistrict.com. Open Tues-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00. Chic, wellcut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. RS1 ul. Koszykowa 1, www.rs-store.pl. Open Mon-Fri 13:00-20:00; Sat 12:00-17:00. RS1 is the continuation of the Guerilla Store concept founded by Robert Serek. This is the place to go for fashion-forward items from Comme Des Garcons, Junya Watanabe, sunglasses by Linda Farrow for Raf Simons and Bernhard Wilhelm, as well as cool trainers from designer Puma collections. Sabotage ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 887 1056. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Those in-the-know know Sabotage as one of the places to buy funky deconstructed denim and sportswear pieces. Here you’ll

find a wide array of unique clothes, hats, belts and handbags in a variety of fabrics and styles that hail straight from New York, London and Tokyo. Schumacher ul. Mokotowska 45, tel. 22 621 9950. This boutique sells über-chic clothing from the Schumacher line in a pristine, minimalist setting and comfortable fitting and lounge area Snobissimo ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 629 8759, www.snobissimo.pl. Top labels from design houses like Jimmy Choo, Sonia Rykiel, Les Copains, Sergio Rossi etc., etc. With shoes and accessories all provided for, it’s a onestop shop to re-boot your wardrobe. Teresa Rosati (Sadyba) tel. 609 433-343, www.teresarosati.com.pl, email: teresarosati@op.pl. Elegant cocktail dresses, gowns for special occasions and beautiful fabrics from one of Poland’s best-known designers. Ready-to-wear and custom-made services at discreet location in Sadyba by appointment.

ACCESSORIES Bagatt (E6) ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 621 9144. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Bagatt features Italian-made footwear. A savvy alternative to the upmarket brands up the street on Pl. Trzech Krzyży.

Bath & Body Works ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów). The famed American brand signals its arrival to Europe with the launch of their Warsaw branch. Now fans of the brand can experience first-hand luxurious fragrant body care, hand and home collections. Customers can discover sophisticated fragrances, test shower gels and soaps at the sink area, and try everything from body lotions to home fragrances. Batycki (various locations) Bozena Batycka’s sleek, simple handbag designs are made with italian leather. While her products are not inexpensive by Polish standards, their uniqueness combined with substantial durability make them a perenial favorite.

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SHOPPING Chiara (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre, ul. Ostrobramska 75C, tel. 22 611 3814. You’d never expect it but this chic little shop stocks the best shoes and bags in the city – stock up on the latest collections from Michael Kors, Celine, Stuart Weitzman, Ralph Lauren and Mulberry. Church’s Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, tel. 22 745 0810. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00. A classic Englishman’s establishment stocking the world’s best dress shoes. Dada (Praga) ul. Ząbkowska 38, tel. 602 173 717, www.galeriadada.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00–19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. It’s a bit hard to define exactly what Dada sells – (from jewellery to lamps, tunics and kitchen appliances) – but one thing is for sure: you won’t find any of it anywhere else. Elf Joy by Kasia Kucharska (by appt) tel. 792 793 729, www.elfjoy.com. Kasia Kucharska travels all over the world to find stones that she turns into brilliant hand-made pieces of semi-precious stones, including amethyst, tourmaline and garnett. Available by special order. Frey Wille (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 37, tel. 22 827 5503, www.frey-wille.com. Open Mon-Fri 10:0019:00; Sat 10:00-17:00. You may not find a diamond ring here, but this is certainly the place to go to if you’re looking for jewellery that will spice up your outfits with a brilliant splash of colour. These Vienna-based jewellers work almost entirely in enamels made by mixing finely-ground glass and minerals. Glamstore ul. Narbutta 83 (entry from ul. Łowicka), tel. 22 403 2300. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all the trimmings and colours you could ask for. They also stock kitchen and bathroom accessories, as well as touting their own jewelery line. HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, www.mokotowska63.com. Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern. Impossible Project

ul. Mysia 3. The Polaroid comes back to life in Impossible Project, a place with refurbished original cameras as well as new film formula. Kate & Kate ul. Wspólna 50A/20, tel. 501 021 841, www.kateandkate.pl Open Mon-Fri 13:0019:00; Sat 10:00-14:00 This shop is so tucked away, you’d never find it without heads up from a friend. But once you do, be prepared to enter a world of brilliant accessories. Lewanowicz Cafe & Boutique Pl. Grzybowski 10, tel. 22 650 0590, www. lewanowicz.com. Lewanowicz’s original house collection of precious and semiprecious stones is supplemented by several other designer ranges, including the Ayalabr line from Israel. Lilou ul. Mokotowska 63, www.lilou.pl. Modular jewelry made simple, and a must for all Warsaw fashionista. Secret Life (of Things) ul. Polna 18/20, tel. 22 412 4811, www.secretlife.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. An ‘eco lifestyle concept store’ full of bio-friendly scents, cosmetics, hand-made trinkets and housewares, rustic furnishings and detox teas. And it’s the multi-colored tins that greet you at the door, all of them crying out ‘drink me’. Check the prestigious porcelain by Kristoff, stock up on Madara cosmetics, or snap up a pair of handmade shoes. Take a Nap ul. Mysia 3. This two floor shop is full of bedtime accessories like comfy sheets, pillows, comforters and blankets, plus fun bits of furniture that merge the modern with a country living twist. Downstairs there’s a broader selection of bed frames, couches and mattresses.

Victoria’s Secret Beauty & Accessories ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów). An assortment of Victoria’s Secret Beauty products including fun and flirty fragrances, such as Bombshell, as well as the scented VS Fantasies body care range. For that glam girl-on-the go, expect to find a wide range of Victoria’s Secret branded bags, luggage, passport covers and small

WARSAW INSIDER | OCTOBER 2013

leather goods to cosmetic bags, bangles and key fobs.

SHOPPING MALLS Arkadia (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82, www.arkadia.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 Galeria KEN Center/E. Leclerc (Ursynów) ul. Ciszewskiego 15. Open Mon-Thurs 9:0021:30; Fri 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00 Galeria Mokotów (C12) ul. Wołoska 12, www.galeriamokotow.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Klif (A2) ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, www.klif.pl. Open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has everything from the excellent Bomi supermarket to top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00. Hip and high-end department store with units such as NYCity (DKNY, Donna Karan), Berries & Co. (Ice Watch, Triwa, Ike Milano), UEG, My Paris and Take a Nap selling great pieces from both established and upcoming designers. Targówek (Praga) ul. Głębocka 15, www.chtargowek.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Vitkac Wolf Bracka Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, www.likusconceptstore.pl Poland’s premier address for designer tags – you won’t find more designer labels per sq/m anywhere else. Money spenders inc. Jimmy Choo, Paul Smith, Stella McCartney, Jil Sander, Gucci, Bottega, Yves Saint Laurent, etc… Wola Park (Wola) ul. Górczewska 124, tel. 22 533-4000, www.wolapark.com. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Złote Tarasy (C4) ul. Złota 59, www.zlotetarasy.pl. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00. Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Health and Fitness Club.

Reviews: Cukier Lukier 79 / Plus:

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CHILDREN CAFES 82 / EDUCATION 79 / SHOPS 82

Insider’s Pick

Cukier Lukier ul. Emilii Plater 10, tel. 605 660 005. Open: 11:00-13:00, 15:00-17:00.

PHOTOGRAPH BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

he way to every little girl’s (and the odd boy’s) heart is a pink candy stripe interior with a sugar-coated bouquet laden with lollipops. Think Alice in Wonderland, step through the looking glass and imagine your child has just drank the growing potion; in Cukier Lukier all the furnishings are petite, giving your child a sense of charge yet the abundance of glorious lollipops and the intense sweet fragrance wafting from the production area, leaves them as lost as Alice was! Luckily, Małgorzata, the Polish/English-speaking owner, and her colleagues are on hand to guide our sweet toothed generation through the umpteen flavors and colors available. I grew up near the British coast, so I am somewhat accustomed to the tradition of handmade sweets, or rather the good old fashioned stick of rock. If you are not, then I suggest you make a point of visiting Cukier Lukier during one of their four times daily, seven days a week, 30 minute production shows. These take place behind a glass screen and start with a hot sticky syrup being poured into a form. Color and flavor is added and after cooling slightly the glutinous caramel is transferred to a rather macabre looking hook on the wall. The next process is what can only be described as a rather tough work-out session for the employee who must pull and stretch the elastic caramel whilst the lip-licking audience witnesses the color conversion. Hereafter, production progresses to rolling, cutting and shaping the lollipop right in front of the bulging, vulture eyes of the onlookers. You can even taste the warm goo! Whilst we enjoyed the whole experience and left the shop with just one oversized token lollipop, the passionate staff repeated the whole operation again and again and again, as they had to complete an order for 500 lollipops! Aside from the daily shows, Cukier Lukier welcomes groups, takes orders for personalized candy art and organizes affordable and fun one to three hour birthday parties – they’ll even close the shop for party bookings. In fact, the only thing I can think of missing at this candy cravers corner was ‘My Girl Lollipop’ on loop in the background. (GBB)

EDUCATION PRESCHOOLS

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, www.aswarsaw.org. ASW provides an American-styled educational program to students aged 4 and 5. The curriculum offers a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities. For further information and/or to visit our school, contact: admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00. The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dabrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777, british@thebritishschool. pl, www.thebritishschool.pl. The British School provides special classes from prenursery aged 2 ½ (30 months) to 6 years old. Children at the Early Years Centre move on to our Primary and Secondary schools at Limanowskiego 15.

The Canadian School of Warsaw – Primary School Unit ul. Bełska 7, tel. 22 646 92 89, 697 970 244, 697 959 199, secretary@canadian-school.pl, www. canadian-school.pl. Provides a continuation of IB (International Baccalaureate) based education for 6-11 year olds. Highly qualified, international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provides for an optimal setting for the highest standard of education. Extra- curricular activities include visual arts, music lessons, sports, foreign languages, etc. For further info, tours and school visits call or email.

The Canadian School of Warsaw – Preschool School Unit ul. Ignacego Krasickiego

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CHILDREN 53, tel. 600 237 878 / 697 979 100, preschool@canadian-school.pl The preschool branch of The Canadian School of Warsaw offers a bilingual environment based on the International Baccalaureate Program PYP for 3-6 year olds enriched with foreign languages and extra activities. Serving the Warsaw community since 2000, they’re now found on new premises 100m from Mokotów’s Dreszera Park and 300m away from Ogródek Jordanowski. All children are welcome, though available space is limited. For further info, tours and school visits call or email.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl. Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów

and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in earlychildhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools. Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupéry ul. Nobla 16, tel./fax: 22 616 1499, www.saint-exupery.pl. Montessori curriculum in

Open House

November 6, 2013

9:00-10:30 a.m American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202, Konstancin-Jeziorna R.S.V.P. at admissions@aswarsaw.org

RSVP: admissions@aswarsaw.org

ASW Elementary School (Pre-kindergarten, Kindergarten and grades 1-5) is hosting an Open House for prospective families. We invite parents and children to come and see what’s happening at ASW during the school day.

all prospective parents and interested parties.

Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School accepting applications for all our locations and programs: Toddler: age 1,5-2,5 Casa: age 2,5 - 6 Elementary: age 6-9,9-12

Contact Ela: tel. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl . Szwolezerów 4, Warszawa; Badowska 19, Warszawa; Szkolna 16, Izabelin.

WARSAW INSIDER | OCTOBER 2013

Let us show you our beautiful school, outstanding staff and happy children!

French for children aged from 2½ years old.

The English Playhouse ul. Płyćwiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, www. theenglishplayhouse.com. The English Playhouse functions in the quiet, green residential district of Mokotów, next to Królikarnia Park. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months till six years old. Now with an additional location in Wilanów which includes a new, purpose-built pre-school building with a huge garden for children up to six years of age. For info call Agnieszka Weston on 604 464 333 or email: office@theenglishplayhouse.com. Happy Montessori House Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 427 3767, mob. 697 060 504, www.hmh.com.pl. The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2.5 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socialising. Mama Marta’s Toddlers Centre Mama Marta’s Toddlers Centre is an English-speaking play and learn group in Old Mokotów, dedicated to infants 16 months to 3 years of age. It offers a gentle introduction to nursery education. Contact: marta. cross@neostrada.pl, mob. 607 704 396. Maple Tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46a (entrance from ul. Rotmistrzowska), tel. 531 599 444, www.mapletreemontessori. pl. Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by an Orff/Kodály-based music syllabus. Find them located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street. Their program, which is designed for three to six year-olds, is devoted to the intellectual, emotional, social and physical development of children. Międzynarodowa Szkoła Podstawowa Argonaut ul. Radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, www.argonaut.edu.pl. This elementary school is open for children of all nationalities and

backgrounds. It places a focus on learning English as well as additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities. Montessori Academy for International Children ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów) ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), tel. 502 315 022, www.monte ssoriacademy.eu. An Englishspeaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child. Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center ul.Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-5 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), www.3languages.pl. Open 7:30-18:30. The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012.

SCHOOLS American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, www.aswarsaw.org. ASW is a premier collegepreparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information and/or to visit our school contact: admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, british@thebritishschool.pl, www.thebrit-

ishschool.pl. Top-ranking private school in Warsaw providing outstanding education based on the British system.

The Canadian School of Warsaw – Middle and High School Unit ul. Olimpijska 11, tel. 600 247 655, 696 485 400,mid.high@canadian-school. pl, www.canadian-school.pl. Provides a continuation of IB education for 11-15 year olds.International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits call or email. Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (H4) Established in 1994, the Antoine de SaintExupery preschool and school provides a French curriculum for children two to eight years old (3rd year of primary school) in a welcoming family atmosphere. Highly qualified native French-speaking teachers. International American School ul. Dembego 18, tel. 22 649 1440, 649 1442 or 603 952 955, www.ias.edu.pl, email: secretary@ias.edu.pl. The International American School of Warsaw provides pre-Kindergarten through 12th grade education based on a dual diploma system for IB and Polish curricula. Accredited by the Polish Ministry of Education, Northwest Association of Accredited Schools and IB Organization.

Kid’s Academy Primary & Pre-School ul. Arbuzowa 33D (Wilanów), ul. Łąkowa 38 (Konstancin), tel. 501 205 080, www.kidsacademy.com.pl. A Private English - Polish School which provides an excellent early educational program for children from ages 2.5 - 5 years old and at the Primary School, from Grade 0. Combining elements of both the Polish and British curriculum, the focus is on creating a positive and vibrant learning environment. They’re also proud of their large playground and variety of healthy foods. Warsaw Montessori School (G7) ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, sylvia@ warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl. Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education

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CHILDREN based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences.

CAFES Figa z Makiem (Saska Kępa) ul. Walecznych 64, figazmakiem.edu.pl. One of the latest and greatest addition to the growing roster of Warsaw kid cafes. Do some well selected designer kids shopping while waiting, or simply browse the books and toys section while your little ones romp in the kids room.

Fiku Miku ul. Zwycięzców 32, www.fikumikucafe.pl. This small, jolly cafe is dedicated to children. The focus is on films and creative workshops. Designer Polish toys are on sale alongside a healthy menu, and fresh cake selection. Check FB for updates as this café closes for private birthday parties. Kalimba ul. Mierosławskiego 19, www.kalimba.pl. Kalimba café caters to Warsaw’s boho-chic community. Relax with long latte’s or nibble healthy snacks whilst kids climb a spiral

staircase to the indoor tree house, role-play in the kitchen area or join creative workshops. The shop, with original handmade toys is tempting, but it’s the pick’n’mix candy that’s unavoidable! Kolonia (B7) ul. Łęczycka (corner of Ładysława), tel. 605 084 804, www.kolonia-ochota.pl. Open daily 10:00-20:00. Not just an excellent cafe, Kolonia is aslo equipped with a garden/ playground. Kolonia is the most kid-friendly (and pet-friendly) place in the area, offering fresh daily specials and a staff that always welcomes you with a smile. Kosmos Kosmos ul. Koszykowa 55. Open 11:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-last guest. The design fuses retro with rock, while the children’s area comes with a handmade puppet theater, cardboard castle and enticing kids menu. ‘Fun workshops’ take place at noon each Saturday. My Baby Café ul. Nowoursynowska 147, www.mybabycafe.pl. A bright and airy café serving good food and great coffee at reasonable prices. Downstairs is the Holy Grail – shiny new toys, a mini kitchen for the girls, a tool bench for the boys, and a large playhouse (real doorbell and all!). They even provide a nanny at no extra cost! Paradise for kids and heaven for Mums.

SHOPS Bimbus ul. Wilcza 69, www.bimbus.com.pl. Accessories, clothes, furniture and toys for parents who pamper their child with nothing but the best. Brands include Tartine et Chocolat, Quax, Woodwork and Theophile & Patachou. Endo Multiple locations, www.endo.pl. Endo is the original home of quality children’s wear that embraced great design by Polish artists and accompanied it with Polish slogans. Much of the materials used are organic, hardwearing and wash well. . Mimbla ul.Mokotowska 51/53, www.cudanakiju. pl. Exclusively for kids on Warsaw’s most exclusive shopping street it’s an Aladdin’s cave of quality toys and Polish/English books. Get your gift wrapped here and both mum and child will be happy even before opening it.

WARSAW INSIDER | OCTOBER 2013

Reviews: Siedlisko Sobibór 83 / Plus:

* 2 updates

LIFESTYLE

ACCOMMODATION 83 / COMMUNITY 87 / HEALTH & BEAUTY 86 / MEDICAL 87 / POLISH FOR FOREIGNERS 87 / SERVICES 87 / TRANSPORTATION 85 /

ACCOMMODATION

Insider’s Pick

HOTELS IN WARSAW 5-star hotels H15 Boutique Apartments ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, www.h15boutiqueapartments.com.

Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555, www.hilton.com. Hyatt Regency Warsaw ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, warsaw.regency@hyatt.com, www.warsaw.regency.hyatt.com. Siedlisko Sobibór ul. Sobibór 30, tel. 603 999 039, www.siedliskosobibor.pl

lthough the name Sobibór immediately brings to mind the tragic events of the Holocaust, there’s more to this part of Poland than the dark shadow of history. Just one mile from Ukraine and two miles from Belarus, a four-hour drive from Warsaw, is the Insider’s favourite wood-cabin: Siedlisko Sobibór. The main house was rebuilt, using the original wooden beams, a couple of years ago and now offers three bedrooms, sleeping up to ten people, and two bathrooms. Renting the whole house costs, per night, from zł. 550 for ten people in high season to zł. 200 for two people from 1 October until 31 March. Outside the house is a veranda large enough to stage concerts on, as is proved over the summer. In the grounds are a stable block and a stunningly reconstructed barn that’s available for parties and the like. New for this autumn is a stand-alone sauna with the tempting opportunity to run down the hill and jump into a lake. Active types can go biking along quiet country lanes or get lost on bike trails in the forests that surround Sobibór village. The river Bug is excellent for canoeing and even better for fishing. Hire of both kayaks and bikes can be arranged. Just take care which bank you stop on for a picnic: Poland is one side, the other is either Belarus or Ukraine, neither have border guards noted for sense of humour, and you’ll probably want to avoid a diplomatic incident. Less active types can wrap up in a blanket and relax in a deckchair with some excellent local beer or just stay inside and watch the log fire that heats the whole house. Nearby Włodawa bills itself as the ‘city of three cultures’ but is actually a sleepy little town with a couple of decent-ish supermarkets and a very passable regional museum that can easily occupy a wet afternoon. Two words of caution. Firstly, watch that your phone doesn’t switch itself onto Ukrainian or Belarussian networks: both result in astronomical roaming fees. Secondly, what your sat nav insists is a tarmac road may actually turn into a muddy track good only for getting stuck: trust your eyes, not the GPS machine. (CS)

InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. Le Meridien Bristol ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, www.starwoodhotels.com. Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw ul. Kościelna 12, tel.22 531 6000, www.mamaison.com. Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.warsawmarriott.com. The Rialto Boutique Hotel ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.hotelrialto.com.pl. Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, www.sheraton.com/warsaw, tel. 22 450 6100. Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888.

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LIFESTYLE www.airporthotel.pl.

Sofitel Victoria ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.orbis.pl. Westin Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.com/warsaw.

4-star hotels

Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000,

Radisson Blu pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl. Mecure ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.holiday-inn.com. Mercure Grand Warszawa ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.orbis.pl. Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport)

ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.courtyard.com/wawcy. Novotel Warszawa Centrum ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com. Polonia Palace Hotel Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com.

3-star hotels

Hotel Belwederski ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl. Castle Inn Pl. Zamkowy, ul. Świętojańska 2, tel. 22 425 0100, www.castleinn.pl. Golden Tulip ul. Towarowa 2, tel. 22 582 7500. Warsaw Gromada Hotel Airport ul. 17-ego Stycznia 32, tel. 22 576 4600, warszawa.airport@gromada.pl. Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport ul. Poleczki, www.hiexpress.com. Hotel Reytan ul. T. Rejtana 6, tel. 22 201 6400, www.reytan.pl. Novotel Warszawa (Airport) ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000, nov.airport@orbis.pl.

WARSAW INSIDER | OCTOBER 2013

APARTMENTS

Central Apart ul. Łucka 2/4/6 m.45, tel. 22 357 0975, www.wawahotele.pl. Apartments for one to four people in locations across town. Prices from zł. 190. InterContinental ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. Long and short stay apartments provided by the hotel of the same name. Perks included are the same as those received by hotel guests: i.e. access to the top floor pool,

room service, maid service etc. MaMaison Residence Diana ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, www.mamaison.com/diana. A beautiful city center location from the same team behind Le Regina. Short and long term stays. Vision Apartments Al. Jerozolimskie 81/22, tel. 22 292 8888, www.visionapartments.eu. Founded in Switzerland, Vision specialize in the rental of high-quality furnished apartments and are known for their commitment to service

and style. Having evolved into Switzerland’s market leader in furnished living, the company is now in the process of establishing footholds throughout Europe with a presence in Berlin, Geneva, Munich, Warsaw and Vienna. Find their Warsaw apartments in Platinum Towers on Grzybowska.

TRANSPORTATION CAR RENTAL

Avis tel. 22 572 6565, fax 22 572 6566,

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LIFESTYLE Fredrick Chopin Airport, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 650 4872/3. Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, www.avis.pl.

Trust Rent a Car ul. Konstruktorska 4, mob. 0602 475 355, www.trustrentacar.pl.

international relocation services to and from Poland for corporate and individual clients.

Hertz Rent a Car Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul. Nowogrodzka 27 (D5), tel. 22 621 1360. Reservations: tel. 22 500 1620, 800 143 789.

RELOCATION COMPANIES

CorstJens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, tel. 22 737 7200, www.corstjens.com.

Sixt Rent a Car ul. Arabska 9, tel. 22 511 1550, 22 511 1555, fax 22 511 1556, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2031, fax 022 650 2032, www.sixt.pl.

AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, tel. 22 702-1072, fax 022 702-1077.

Besto Relocations ul. Kłobucka 8 /127, tel. 22 847 8878, mob. 514 643 286, warsaw@bestorelocations.com, www.bestorelocations.com. High-quality

Crown Relocations ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 894 5929 or 22 578 2093, www.crownrelo.com. DuX Consulting Agency ul. Panieńska 9/17, tel. 22 670 4280, www.duxconsulting.com.pl. Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3539, www.expressrelocations.com. Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, moving@euromove.pl, www.euromove.pl. Interdean International Relocation ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel. 22 701 7171, fax 22 701 7177, warsaw@interdean.com, www.interdean.com. With 120 relocation service centres and employs 3,150 international relocation services staff across Europe and EMEA, and over 600 alliances worldwide. Move One Relocations tel. 22 630 8160, poland@moveonerelo.com, www.moveonerelo.com. Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services.

HEALTH & BEAUTY FITNESS

Holmes Place Premier ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), www.holmesplace.pl. Those who use it claim the Hilton branch is the best gym in Poland. Set on two floors, highlights include a 25 meter pool, sauna and steam room and a spacious gym packed with the most modern equipment. Also on-site, a varied timetable of classes, excellent personal trainers and a Green Coffee relaxation area. Their latest outpost in the Marriott also has a pool and has been updated accordingly to fit the HP quality check. For prices enquire direct. RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental),

WARSAW INSIDER | OCTOBER 2013

www.riverview.com.pl. Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city. Annual prices from zł. 4,200 (access from Mon-Fri 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.), zł. 5,760 (all times), and zł. 8,350 for Diamond Membership (includes two personal training sessions per month, a complimentary weekend at the InterContinental, restaurant discounts, etc.).

Melitus ul. Słowackiego 12, tel. 22 883 7438, mob. 603 060 621, biuro@melitus.pl, www.melitus. pl. Specializing in dermatology, surgery, phlebology, endocrinology, gynecology and internal medicine. The clinic is equipped with the latest and most innovative medical equipment and employs several renowned clinicians.

POLISH FOR FOREIGNERS

SPAS & SALONS

Haircology ul. Rozbrat 44A, tel. 669 780 669, www.haircology.pl. An upmarket ecologically minded hairdresser that eschews such things as synthetic fragrances, silicon and preservatives.

Hair a Porter ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel, level -1), tel. 22 558 1555. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-17:00. A staunch favorite of the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing expert staff and top-quality products. Sungate Beauty & Spa Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 2, tel. 22 582 9474, 517 012 880, www.spasungate.pl. Open 10:00-24:00. A feast for all five senses, Sungate offers a wide range of massages, face and body treatments as well as a VIP room for couples.

Edu & More ul. Nowogrodzka 44 / 7, tel. 22 622 14 41, office@polishonlinenow.com, www. polishonlinenow.com. Polish Language School incorporating modern teaching methods and reasonable prices. Intensive & regular Polish courses for beginners. Business & everyday Polish. Preparatory courses for the state exam as well as for the international ECL certificate in Polish. Morning, afternoon & evening classes. Frog ul. Mazowiecka 12/24, tel. 403 7872, www.frog.org.pl. Acclaimed language school aimed at all levels of competency. Flexible schedules and a history of working with foreigners make it one of the ‘go to’ choices for new arrivals wanting to polish their Polish. Klub Dialogu Tel. 664 788 994, www.klubdialogu.pl.

Individual and group courses held either onsite or at the venue of your choice. Tailor-made packages inc. both intensive and weekend courses.

COMMUNITY Amnesty International ul. Piękna 66a, apartment no. 2, 1st floor; tel/fax: 22 827 6000; e-mail: amnesty@ amnesty.org.pl. Donations can be made to Zachodni WBK S.A. 6 O/Gdańsk 85 1090 1098 0000 0000 0959 0181. Taste of the Classics A Taste of the Classics is a classical music, fine art and dinner entertainment, held regularly in prime locations. The events alternate between formal and semi-formal dress and are held in English. Attendance is by invitation and includes dinner and wine. For further info: please contact Richard Berkeley: berkeley@fnok.pl or tel. 502 965 353.

SERVICES

J&J Services Al. Jerzego Waszyngtona 146, tel. 22 515 80 54, jjservices@jjservices.pl. Accounting specialists dealing with domestic and foreign companies as well as individuals. Can also help with renting meeting rooms, services related to company registration, general office and educational solutions not to mention the recruitment of staff.

ACCOUNTING & IT SERVICES

MEDICAL

Al. Jerzego Waszyngtona 146, 04-076 Warszawa Tel +48 22 515 8054 Fax +48 22 870 6965

MEDICAL PRIVATE CLINICS

Lux Med Medical Clinics ul. Racławicka 132b, ul. Chmielna 85/87; ul. Puławska 15; ul. Kopernika 30 (E4); ul. Szernera 3; Al. Jerozolimskie 162; 24hr hotline: 801 800 808, for mobile users: tel. 22 332 2888, www.luxmed.pl.

WARSAW

www.jjservices.pl jjservices@jjservices.pl

World Leader in Implantology and Dental Aesthetics

Malo Clinic MALOONZ CLINIC Warsaw is Central Rondo 1, tel. 22 335 7755, Europe's first clinic of the world’s leader in Implantology and Dental www.maloclinics.com/polska. Thisand world class Aesthetics, offering full dental care, above all advanced implant surgery. dental clinicdental incorporates five dental offices, Located in a modern office complex Rondo 1 at anRondo operating twocenter recovery roomsthe and a ONZ, room, in the city of Warsaw, Clinic can be easily accessed as center. it is located in only 10 state-of-the-art diagnostic

minutes from Central Railway Station, 30 minutes from the F. Chopin International Airport, near bus, tram stops and subway station (Świętokrzyska Station). Entry into a secured car park in the Rondo 1 building – off Pańska street.

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CLASSIFIEDS

A UNIQUE OPPORTUNITY TO LIVE INSIDE A NATURE RESERVE. Do you dream of complete silence, with only the wind whistling in the trees? Or a lazy Sunday spent under the stars? This is your unique chance to own such a place. Set inside the Kampinowski National Park, but only 19km from the center of Warsaw, this could be your great escape. For further info: tel. 607 399 085, per@hansen.pl, www.dom-w-kampinosie.com

Tel: +48 22 702 10 72