Everything you need to do in August – and where

For the hottest month of the lot, paste the sunblock on and get outdoors! From the bleeding obvious to the hidden charms, we bring you the very best that August has to offer…

WATCH…

The Sunset

Ain’t nothing like watching candy floss sunsets on a long summery night. For this innocent pleasure there’s no shortage of spots, and one of the more prime perches includes the city’s own Ghostbusters Tower – find the viewing terrace of the Palace of Culture open until 10 p.m. till each Friday and Saturday. But for something a bit more smoochy, head to Gnojna Góra in the Old Town – once a trash heap (Napoleon was said to have been repulsed by it), now it offers enchanting views of the river. You won’t be alone. Enshrined as one of Warsaw’s favorite kiss spots, find the railings decorated with soppy lovelocks professing eternal love.

JOIN…

A Walking Tour

Use the city as a living museum and join up with a free walking tour. Specializing in subjects such as Old Town, WWII, Jewish Warsaw and more, there’s a few to tag along with – you could do a lot worse than linking up with Orange Umbrella (orangeumbrella.pl) or Walkative (freewalkingtour. com). With foreign tourists a rare sighting, expect numbers to be far more modest than usual. The city is yours!

HAVE…

A Cook-up

What’s summer without a boozy, starlit BBQ! A few things you need to know: first, don’t be an idiot and hold a smoke-out on your balcony. It’s illegal to do so and you’ll face a fine for your efforts. So too in other at-risk places liable to cause fire or annoyance. And forget taking your BBQ set to the posh parks like Łazienki and Saski. Instead, do what the rest of Warsaw does and head to Pole Mokotowskie or the patchy bit of scrubland that flanks Most Poniatowskiego. The sight and smell of dozens of flickering fires is one of the sensations of the summer.

TAKE…

To The Rooftops

Become a skywalker by visiting Warsaw’s rooftop parks – set practically next door to each other, that means swinging by the BUW Library and the Copernicus Science Center. In the former, walk a one hectare plot slashed with sloping metal walkways and leafy alcoves, while in the latter, traverse maze-like paths cut among the flowerbeds. Each of them stunning, on one side you’ll be viewing the river in all its summer glory, and on the other, the busy urban skyline reaching for the clouds. When the skies turn scarlet, the feeling isn’t unlike walking in some alien world. People, welcome to Mars.

INNER SANCTUMS

For hidden Warsaw at its best, penetrate the courtyards for the city’s unseen side…

For Socialists

Strictly-speaking, there’s nothing special about the courtyards in the Palace of Culture, but they do allow for the unerring sensation of being shrunk to the size of an ant. It’s in these damp hollows you appreciate the overwhelming size of Stalin’s gift to Poland. More fun, not least thanks to the bars that back out onto it, is the courtyard within the former Communist Party HQ at Nowy Świat 6/12. Completed in 1951, two-years later thousands flocked here to file past a portrait of Stalin during a symbolic funeral ceremony. Home to Poland’s top officials, 70s leader Edward Gierek would reputedly chill out looking out onto the courtyard while flicking through his daily copy of Le Monde. With the ground floor units now in-filled with bars, the inner courtyard has never been livelier.

For Something Iconic

Around 300 courtyard shrines can be found in Warsaw, and though Praga is especially famed for them (taken on its own, the area has around 120) they’re also prevalent in other parts of the city that survived WWII. Though some date to Tsarist times, most popped up during the Nazi occupation and served as secretive places of public worship at a time when the church faced relentless persecution. Together, they brought with them a feeling of ‘security, solidarity and even freedom’. Often eccentrically decorated with flowers, twinkly lights and assorted add-ons, they’re a curious glimpse into times gone by. Lovingly maintained to this day, they vary in size and general health, but regardless of this they represent a fascinating chapter in local history.

For Social Media

Completed in 1913 to a design authored by Wacław Heppen and Józef Napoleon Czerwiński, the tenement at Sienkiewicza 4 was reputedly inspired by the Ecole de Beaux Arts in Paris. Originally seven-floors in height, it lost two of these during the war. That wasn’t all. Previously home to luxurious apartments for Warsaw’s high rollers, the post-war years saw it decline into a cracked, broken state. Now finally renovated (or sort of, anyway), slipping into the courtyard allows visitors a true sense of the city’s rich contrasts – jutting out behind, almost like a space rocket, the 22-storey Moniuszki Tower provides a brilliant clash between the then and the now.

For Traditionalists

You feel the pomp of Poland’s past glories in the Royal Castle’s courtyard, a place that took its present shape under the rule of King Sigismund III Vasa – yup, the same dude that shifted the capital from Kraków to Warsaw. For the pre-war glory years though, have a poke around the gritty courtyards that are sandwiched between Jerzolimskie and Nowogrodzka – to see them from a bird’s eye perspective, the 40th floor Marriott Panorama Bar offers unhindered views.

For Curiosity Seekers

Not all courtyards are equal. Beat the buzzer to enter Hoża 70 and you’ll happen upon what’s colloquially known as ‘the Doll House’. As cute as a button, and sneaked inside a 19th century courtyard, this two-floored building was added in 1910 and served as the home of the Hipolit Majewski dyeing store until 1937. Dwarfed by the surrounding buildings, and capped with a trio of pointy gables, it’s a genuine covert gem.

For The Modern Man

When it opened in 2003, Sir Norman Foster’s Metropolitan building helped usher in a new era for Warsaw’s architecture. Eighteen years on, its ring-shaped courtyard remains a photographic fave for its sleek looks and spewing fountains. But arguably even more enticing is the courtyard of the BUW Library – head to the fantastical rooftop park to peer down into a small courtyard that appears as unexpectedly as a sinkhole.

For History Buffs

Many of Warsaw’s courtyards bear the scars of war, not least the ghostly, jagged ruin on Waliców 14. Even more poignantly, head into Bracka 5 to see an inscription announcing to mourners the removal of Antoni Szczęsny Godlewski’s body to Powązki Military Cemetery. Killed in action during the Warsaw Uprising, the 17-year-old was originally buried on Bracka in 1944. Around 1.5 meters in length, the inscription was added the following year by the combatant’s mother.

CHILL…

Among The Statues

Even through history, Królikarnia (Puławska 113A) has always been a hoot – built in the 18th century for Augustus II, its primary function was to serve as his hunting base, though according to some it was actually little more than ‘a high class brothel’ built with debauchery in mind. The palace survives, and this forms an interesting backdrop for an unusual sculpture park whose set of rules at the entrance specifically state that visitors are free to “hug the statues”. Of these there are many, and they run the gamut from the heads of Poland’s kings and bards, to cute little ladybirds and weird zonkyeyed lions. Bring books and a picnic and let the day slide away.

CATCH…

A Match

August means football! After a summer break that feels like it lasted about four minutes, Warsaw’s sportsmen will already be back on the pitch by the time this mag falls into your hands – but although for many that will mean heading down to either Legia or Polonia, for others it means soaking in the pleasures of the city’s bizarre amateur scene.

As per tradition, the highlight of the fixture list will be a cup match that pits Kartofliska (a groundhopping blog whose motto is ‘Football Without Alcohol Is Nothing’) against Bar Ulubiona, a pub team composed of journalists, wanderers and even ex-pros (like, for instance, the bloke that netted for Legia against Man Utd in 1991). Attracting a good-natured crowd of flare-wielding beer monsters, it’s a magical demonstration of the more humorous side of Polish football. This year, this clash of titans will be played in Radość on August 14th.

Will the winner take it all? Course not, they’ll just earn the chance to run out against other sides featuring roly-poly players of varying age and skill.

SPOT…

The Shipwreck

For many locals it’s a source of embarrassment, but for others the shipwrecked barge at Port Czerniakowski is one of Warsaw’s great curiosities. Half-tipped to its side, it’s been sat there for years – no-one knows who own it, and as a result the city have seized ownership and attempted to sell it for several years: for PLN 7,000 this wreck could be yours. Granted, it’s hardly the stuff of Pirates of the Caribbean, but its an odd point of interest that makes for great snaps. In a region riddled with half-crazy urbex spots, it’s one of the finer little treasures for adventurers to explore. Brilliantly, neither is it the only sunken vessel you may see.

PLAN…

Your Own Mural Tour

Reflecting Warsaw’s creative streak, the city’s once gloomy walls have become a canvas for ambitious art and large format murals. In this respect, the district of Ursynów has fast become the de facto center of action, but let’s not kid about, for the overwhelming majority of people it’s the suburb of Praga that always comes to mind. It’s here that Warsaw’s case of mural-osis first gathered pace, and while many of these works are increasingly looking flaky and chipped, this serves to only emphasize the gritty atmosphere of this upcoming area. And for each that looks knackered, find others that are fresh and recently unveiled. To tap into Praga’s soul, plot out your own mural tour using: puszka.waw.pl.

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: COURTESY OF TYTUS BRZOZOWSKI, COURTESY OF ECOLOGIXSTUDIO (2) BREATHE…

The City’s Cleanest Air

Described as a world first, a new playground has thrilled the planet’s design and science media after being unveiled on Warsaw’s riverbank. Designed by the London-based ecoLogicStudio, the project allows children to play inside a cylindrical AirBubble containing the purest air in the city.

Set outside the innovative Copernicus Science Center, the solar-powered structure has been kitted out with soft, squidgy seating and hanging ropes – by jumping on these, children activate the 52 bio reactors. Each filled with ten liters of live Chlorella, these in turn blast fresh oxygen into the enclosed playground. Connected to monitoring systems both inside and out, early tests have revealed that the AirBubble is capable of reducing harmful PM2.5 particles by up to 83%.

“Algae inhabit the aquatic environment,” say the Copernicus Science Center. “Despite this, they can capture solar energy up to 50 times more effectively than land plants. They use particles of carbon dioxide and nitrogen oxides as food and increase their biomass. Like all plants, they also release oxygen.”

Shocked into action after reading a WHO report that claimed up to 93% of the world’s children breathe polluted air when playing, the team behind the project – Dr. Marco Poletto and Dr. Claudia Pasquero – now hope that more AirBubbles could be rolled out across the world – until they are, your chance to check out the one in Warsaw lasts until October 31st. “The fun,” add the Copernicus Science Center, “is free.”

PACK…

Your Swimmers

Clockwise from above: Suntago water park, volleyball courts at Cypel Czerniakowski and Moczydło Water Park

Show off your beach bod at any number of Warsaw’s pools – come summer, the city opens an array of outdoor pools, many of which have benefited from recent overhauls to bring them into the correct century. From these, inside picks include the vast Moczydło Water Park (featuring a 50-meter pool for serious swimmers, and slides and water playgrounds for those more committed to frolicking) and the generous complex at Szczęśliwicki Park.

Over on the Praga side, visit Błękit, a super-fun spot revived under the auspices of LunaPark – as such, there’s a strong millennial vibe: consider an inflatable unicorn a must-have accessory.

If you’re feeling brave, then forget the pool and hit the sands instead – of Warsaw’s clutch of river-side bathing spots, then Poniatówka at the base of Poniatowski Bridge is easily the city’s fave. The clean toilet facilities are definitely an added boon. Boasting more shade and less people, do also consider visiting Żoliborz beach at Wybrzeże Gdyńskie 2 or Rusałka on the right bank – it was on the latter than Canaletto painted his epic 18th century work, ‘View of Warsaw From Praga’. For the active-minded, then Cypel Czerniakowski offers rentals of watersport equipment and comes with the additional bonus of touting a weird monument to Polish sappers that helped de-mine the area, not to mention a spread of deckchairs, volleyball courts and other diversions.

Last but not least, head out-of-town to Suntago, a.k.a. Europe’s largest water park. Opened about one second before the pandemic (ouch!), the 67,000 sq/m indoor complex includes 18 pools, 32 slides, palms imported from Florida and Malaysia and various zones themed around things like ancient Egypt and Valhalla.

COUNT…

The Semaphores

No matter how jaded you might be of heading up there, it’s an unwritten rule that at least once every summer residents will find themselves knocking elbows with the tourists up in Warsaw’s historic Old Town. Emptier than usual (no guessing why), add a purpose to this year’s visit by setting yourself the task of counting the area’s semaphores.

Locally known as semafory, these ornate metalwork signs were added during Warsaw’s post-war reconstruction as a nod to the decorations that once advertised the town’s stores in the 16th and 17th century. Inducted into the Register of Movable Monuments at the tailend of June, these unsung little beauties were manufactured by the top craftsmen of the PRL era – though often now crowded out by garish ice cream signs, they’ve become an essential part of the Old Town’s aesthetics. In all, there’s 24 for you to track down.

WALK…

A Watery Labyrinth

If you’re still lurking around Port Czerniakowski then don’t think of leaving before tracking down the bio filters (Google map them by typing Biofiltr Port Czerniakowski). Offering childish great fun, you’ll find yourself running over a network of duckboards, footbridges and gangplanks that are a joy to explore. Set out in an almost labyrinthine pattern, their true purpose is to filter the waters but don’t let that stop you from having a blast. With greenery cascading around you, this place feels like the ultimate hidden city secret.

GET…

Your Jazz On

In spite of the lack of decent jazz clubs to be found in Warsaw, it’s a sound that this city loves – especially when played outside. Running until August 28th, head into the Old Town to listen to free concerts showcasing the hottest talents in Poland… and abroad. Taking place each Saturday at 7 p.m., if nothing else it’s a joy to see the city alive once again. For scheduled performances, click on over to: jazznastarowce.pl.

BECOME…

A Film Buff

If you’re tired of the mainstream blockbusters at the cinema, or are too jittery about sitting in a closed room next to sneezy, groping couples, then Warsaw’s outdoor kino program is here to save the day. Now it would take about seventy sheets of paper to list all the forthcoming screenings, suffice to say you won’t have a problem finding something of interest. Costing zilch, and offering a quirky program infinitely more interesting than your latter-day rubbish, look for a schedule at Filmowa Stolica (filmowastolica.pl). Of the more interesting venues, you’ll be able to catch a movie outside the National Museum or the charming Saski Park. Beyond the places falling under Filmowa Stolica’s umbrella, other notable places to investigate include Elektrowni Powiśle, the Palace of Culture, the Royal Castle and even the Ursus Factory. Seek and ye shall find (though it’ll help if you Google ‘kino plenerowe’).

Eat!

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA SYRIAN PLEASURES

Discover Puławska’s unsung hero…

Syryjka’s decor is no great shakes, but the true food lover will look past the generic mundanity of the design to instead focus through onto the vegetarian cuisine that has made this a stalwart of Lower Warsaw. Unassuming and most definitely not for scene-inspired foodies, the simplicity wins through via quite splendid food.

For this Insider, that means a regular order of Talerz Syryjki, a beautiful fresh canvas of food served in a portion that’s big enough to share – though you certainly won’t want to. On this, painterly gestures of fresh hummus await, as too do mutabbal (an eggplant dip) and muhammara (spicy red pepper dip) sprinkled with pomegranate seeds. So fresh and perfect is it all, diners find themselves scooping up the spoils with a handheld pita. And there’s the falafel – though others do it well, Syryjka do it better. There is not a better falafel that we’ve so far found.

Scattered with Arabian olives, an assortment of pickled gems and a salad (either fatush or tabbouleh) it’s hard to think of a better vegetarian deal in the city: for zł. 28, all this is yours!

INSIDER TIP Loaded with fresh mint, the tabbouleh is outstanding. Before you go, take home baklava – in our case, the paluszki pistacjowe is impossible to beat. (KD)

THE KING OF CHICKEN!

All the good things to come out of the street food revolution, then Kura are there with the best. Originally starting off as side street op in Muranów, this bird has grown wings to expand across the city – and their latest venture, touching down in Wilanów, is the most ambitious yet.

Amid some street art doodles and ceiling plants, locals gather inside this diner-style spot to feast on Kura’s mainstays – that’s golden fried chicken and double-fried chips – while pondering the occasional wild guest appearance of things like chicken shoehorned inside cones drizzled with maple syrup. And don’t forget their essential dips; in our case, we rarely look beyond the Challenger No. 3, a richly tangy dollop of spice that lends life to the mouth.

Matched with the addition of breakfasts and American-themed desserts straight from the food porn canon and you have a place that’s perfect for a family Sunday chow-down. And with a fridge full of Polish craft beers, you could even use it for a guys' night out.

Kura

Branickiego 11, restauracjakura.pl

VIBE K-Bar has Seoul! Originally from the South Korean capital, Czesio has injected his life experiences and personal artistic journey into K-Bar, not least via his DJing background – no matter when you may visit, there’s something of a party feeling. Like being buzzed into an artist’s loft apartment, its packed with neon, flea market finds and Korean groceries. In some ways, you may think of hiding away above Mr. Charrington’s store in George Orwell’s 1984.

FOOD & DRINK The KFC (Korean Fried Chicken) will satisfy desires for something sweet, spicy and fried. Hard and textured on the outside and soft and juicy on the inside, it’s served with delicious daikon kimchi. For a healthier option, K-Bar’s Vegan Bibimbab along are nothing short of bliss, more so when enjoyed with an ice cold K-Mate. The Korean-themed cocktails are also great fun, something affirmed by the high-spirited crowd.

FOR FUN Check out K-Bar’s catchy videos on YouTube or take home a jar of KFC sauce to pimp up your cooking. Also, don’t leave without bagging some of their homemade kimchi – it’s a great way to stock up your pantry for any house party you’re holding.

UP AHEAD Keep your chopsticks at the ready for K-Bar are already eyeing further locations. Having conquered the center (10,000 FB fans can’t be wrong!), plans are afoot for K-Ramen joints in Żoliborz and Ursynów. (KD)

K FOR KOMFORT

A place of cult legend, look to K-Bar to fill your K-Food cravings…

BACKGROUND Over the years this upstairs space on Piękna has been many things to many people – most recently though, it’s made waves in its current guise, that of an intriguing den of Korean ‘things’. Launched before the pandemic, it was born from the vision of two friends, Czesio and Tomasz, who saw it as a place in which to sell vintage furniture while serving Korean food. Slowly, those ideas have blurred so much that it’s not uncommon to find visitors pulling off price tags from the furniture not knowing what they were there for.

PRETTY IN PINK

The éclair revolution slams into Warsaw!

Better late than never! Five years after the trend first broke out in the world’s major culinary hubs, eclairs with flair have finally hit Poland – and no-one is doing them better than this gorgeous-looking locale snuck away on Krucza.

THE PLACE A couple of weeks you probably chortled when city authorities announced a long-term plan to remodel Krucza street in the manner of Barcelona’s La Rambla. But as amusing and unlikely as this might sound, that doesn’t detract from the feeling that something special is happening on Krucza. Once perceived as cold and inhumane, today the street is rapidly assuming its own identity thanks to an influx of super-cool enterprises – places like Am’or.

Looking dashing in its shades of pastel pink and gold trim, it looks pleasing perfect with its pristine parquet and heart-shaped seats. Scattered with flowers (pink of course) and marble-topped tables, it’s classy, fun, feminine and smart.

THE ECLAIRS Laid out with military precision, these are eye-catching gems that look almost too good to consume. You want to covet them from each possible angle, recording the results on your phone before sending the pics out to all of your contacts. Featuring embellishments such as a swirly rainbow-colored unicorn mane, these are elegant creations filled with cream that’s so light you suspect it might float away. Making use of seasonal fruits, posh chocolates and gourmet cheese, you’ll even find some with utterly wacky additions: pastrami beef, for instance, or yet others themed around the concept of ‘apple pie’ or ‘gravlax salmon’. Deliciously daring, these are eclairs that set a new domestic benchmark – in fact, it wouldn’t be out of place to compare them to the quality you’d find out in Paris.

AND THE REST… The eclairs here are enough to make you feel euphoric, but as the name suggests, there’s a drinks scene as well – sparkly wines by the bottle or the glass, fancy cocktails and – get this – pink lattes are all an added incentive to check this place out.

Am’or Eklery i Wino

Kurcza 23/31,

author’s cuisine

ALE WINO

You could eat in Ale Wino a hundred times – and we know some people that have – and still never be bored. That alone says much for the consistency and creativity of a kitchen that has come to be admired as the source of some of the best cooking in the city. Regularly adjusted to utilize the best items the season has to offer, chef Sebastian Wełpa’s menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes. Rounding out the experience is an intimate, labyrinthine design that’s ideal for when it’s cold and grim, and a shaded courtyard terrace that’s perfect for when it’s not. ul. Mokotowska 48

BIBENDA

Preserving the prewar heritage of the building, the warm, busy interiors of Bibenda feel ripe for a pint: and yes, thanks to a rotating roster of craft beers, a good pint is what you can expect. Catching the ambience perfectly, the menu is an interesting work that specializes in spotting unlikely combinations that actually work: for instance, ‘cilantro funky pork sausages’ with pickled carrots, brussels sprouts and fried peanuts. Even better, the curvy bar is perfect for loners with dinner for one in mind! ul. Nowogrodzka 10

DYLETANCI

Entered into the Michelin Guide for the first time in 2018, Dyletanci’s inclusion in the foodie’s bible was further evidence of the trajectory its taken in the three years it’s been open. The epitome of the neo-bistro style, find an attractive space that’s been seamlessly designed to feature a wine store, kitchen and dining room(s) that somehow feel organically joined. The atmosphere is lifted by faultless cooking that combines a little bit of Polish with a little bit of eclectic: it’s a combination that works and often magnificently well. ul. Rozbrat 44A

KLONN

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Attractively located in a lush expanse of leafy parkland, Klonn finds itself planted inside a low-level building just a whisper from Ujazdowski Castle. Dark and slick on the inside, the reverse is true of an exterior dedicated to expressions of street art. Yet while a big deal has been made of the visual creativity, it’s the food that leaves the real impact. A harmony of flavors, the hybrid cuisine includes luxury pizzas, hearty beef fillets and sophisticated desserts: it’s all a fantasy of skill. ul. Jazdów 1B

LOFT

Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark. The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. ul. Złota 11

MOD

An incubator for the unorthodox, this cool and kooky venture pushes the envelope when it comes to being different. Devised by Trisno Hamid, a Singaporean chef with a classic French background, glories include ramen noodles in a steamy yuzu broth and Angus beef rump steak served with tahini mashed potatoes and a big thump of chili and fig relish. Adding to the sense of being somewhere current, find a seriously cool vibe inside an interior featuring a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants and busy tables filled with the kind of people that you’d mistake for rising fashion photographers. ul. Oleandrów 8

RESTAURACJA WARSZAWSKA

Humongous in size, the vast spaces and lack of natural light never feel an issue. Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, find this subterranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this pre-war skyscraper. Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go to a golden schnitzel the size of a tricycle wheel as well as the spicy pork dumplings served in a vibrant essence of paprika. It’s exceptional. Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa)

ROZBRAT 20

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite write-ups. Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking. ul. Rozbrat 20

bakeries

AROMAT

“Good bread needs good flour,” says Mathieu, one half of the mother / son duo that founded Aromat back in 2014. Sourcing theirs from a small French mill, the attention to detail has not been lost even as Aromat

have blossomed to cover numerous addresses around Warsaw. And aside from bread, also anticipate a choice of coffee and pastries – the lemon eclairs deserve their own fan club. Various locations

CAŁA W MĄCE

“My bread is a reflection of my experiences,” says Monika Walecka, “every loaf tells its own story and includes elements from others that have either inspired or taught me – each one is like having baby with your baker friends!” Milling the flour herself then baking the bread with whole grain flour so that the most nutritious parts don’t get sifted, the results are white, fluffy breads as well as loaves that use ancient grains such as spelt, emmer or einkorn. ul. Krasińskiego 18

RANO

Set on upcoming Stalowa street, the number of top restaurants that are using this place to source their bread is indicative of their unquestioned quality. Looking – and smelling – exactly as you’d imagine an artisanal bakery to do so, find their offer given an extra boost by indulgences such as brioches and scones. ul. Stalowa 47

chinese

PAŃSKA 85

Despite the over-the-top luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. ul. Pańska 85

REGINA BAR

Taking their inspiration from New York’s Little Italy and Chinatown, the menu at Regina is the very definition of ethnic comfort food: won-ton dumplings, ribs in sticky hoisin sauce and the best-selling General Tso chicken – famed for its healing properties, it’s one of the best hangover remedies around. On the Italian front, leopard-spotted pizzas land are presented with wheel-bladed knives in a kooky, retro interior featuring a dangling chandelier and the tallest mirror in Poland (possibly). ul. Koszykowa 1

comfort food

KUR & WINO

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Formerly demonized for its brutally dehumanizing architecture and Orwellian atmosphere, Andersa street has evolved to become something of micro scene rich in hip haunts: in this renaissance, Kur & Wino have more than played their part. Cooked rotisserie-style, the big points go to chicken from Podlasie and guineafowl from Wielkopolska served with a medley of creative sauces. The cool, funky backdrop adds to the buzz, as does a terrace crowded with crates and palms. ul. Andersa 21

PALOMA NAD WISŁĄ

Attached to the modern art museum, people flood here to enjoy an atmospheric wooden-decked terrace, an exciting choice of spritzers and food that captures the zeitgeist: artisanal cheeseboards; stuffed rotis; fish tacos; vegan ice cream and so much more. ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 47

PASTRAMI BISTRO

This place was practically designed for the new millennial: craft beers, hanging succulents, neon signage and a communal table. Using pastrami as their hero ingredient (you’d never have guessed, right?), find it inside sandwiches, burgers, bowls of shakshuka and even on pizza. Love it! ul. Solec 50

POGROMCY MEATÓW

Dude food doesn’t get much better. Specializing in slow-cooked meats, find artisan buns stuffed with ribs, beef tongue, pastrami and the like before being given extra oomph with locally grown greens, homemade kimchi or house pickles. A savage, primal pleasure of dripping sauce and juicy meat, the homespun quality of Pogromcy Meatów catapults it above the competition. ul. Koszykowa 1

desserts

KUKUŁKA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Recruiting the acclaimed Beza Projekt studio to handle the design, the result is a funky two-level space with monochrome floors, spirally stairs and little blasts of color set against the stark, minimalistic concrete finishes. But what really gets you are desserts that lift this piece of Warsaw in the direction of heaven – the cream puffs are something else. ul. Mokotowska 52

MISS MELLOW

Mixing sophisticated desserts with those that fall more on the filthy food porn side of thigs, Miss Mellow have hit the bull’s eye by

offering something for everyone that enjoys the sweeter things in life. Lauded even by Vogue, find a wicked rundown of toasts, brioches, financiers, brownies, cookies and cakes. Eschewing chemical nasties, it’s a place in which the owners’ commitment towards quality resonates throughout. ul. Wilcza 62

MOD DONUTS

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Shoebox in its size, it’s here you’ll find a steady queue lining up for their award-winning NYC-style donuts – featuring toppings like hibiscus; mango; salted caramel; matcha; and lemon and poppy, they’re a fab deviation from the standard Polish pączek. ul. Paryska 27

SŁODKI BEZ

Cake: good. Sugar: bad. We all know that. But what you might not know of is the existence of Słodki Bez, a small little store specializing in sugar-free desserts. And it’s not just sugar they’ve dispensed of altogether, but also white flour, gluten, lactose and all the other synthetic nasties that we’re meant to dislike. Using natural substitutes, find a rich array of cakes and sweets such as vegan banoffee pie, chocolate nut cake, chickpea brownies, macarons, tarts and pralines. ul. Hoża 54, slodkibez.pl

farmers’ markets

FORTECA KREGLICCY

Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant and blogging scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobellos from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów. Even the bottom-feeding carp here tastes bang on. ul. Zakroczymska 12

BIOBAZAR

First founded in 2010, BioBazar pre-dated Warsaw’s love of food-from-the-source and triggered a city-wide trend that’s shown no sign of slowing. Though imitations have come thick and fast, none have matched this original in either size or scope: fresh fish, cheese, eggs, bread, cured sausages, honey... you name it, they’ve got it. Comprehensive in its pitch, everything you need to pursue a bright, happy life is here in this legendary farmers’ market. ul. Wołoska 3

Miodowa 1, tel.888 575 457 | Hours: Wed-Sun: 12:00-21:00 fb.com/TrattoriaRucola | Insta.com/TrattoriaRucolaWarszawa www.trattoriarucola.pl

HALA GWARDII

Designed to complement, rather than compete, with the market outside, find a natural gravity effect that works to benefit both Gwardii and Hala Mirowska. Operating only weekends, Gwardii has become a well-loved addition to Warsaw’s gastro scene, with its farmers’ market working well with the food booths on the other side of this historic hall. Pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1

HALA MIROWSKA

As popular with undercover chefs as it is with queue-jumping pensioners wielding walking sticks like sabers, the accessibility of its price tags is bettered only by the rich bounty of produce that awaits. In the post-war units attached to the core building, Darek at No. 17 has amassed a legendary reputation for his edible flowers; at 115, cheeses and handmade sausages are the order of the day; whilst Pani Anna at 114 has been called the Queen of Mirowska for her peerless skills handling a butcher’s cleaver. Your best bet is to pencil in a full afternoon here. Pl. Mirowski 1

fine dining

EPOKA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Preserved 19th century cornices and baroque-style drapes lend an enveloping sense of luxury inside this A-Class space. Scene of the Insider’s most impressive dining moment of 2019, Epoka’s menu is based on Polish cookbooks from different epochs (hence the name, dummy!), with the dishes reconstructed in a way that’s innovative, unexpected and a roller coaster of thrills. Oh gosh moments include jellied apple compote; a sweet and boozy pumpkin pottage; razor thin chestnut with marinated celeriac; and bigos like no other. You want to pause the evening for at least forever. ul. Ossolińskich 3

EUROPEJSKI GRILL

Decked out in tan and vanilla shades, hexagonal lighting installations, glinting mirrors and bold, blue ceramics, there’s a character that bridges the classic with the contemporary to magnificent effect. Basque chef Beñat Alonso has used the lockdown to simplify his menu, a work which gives regional suppliers an all-star role. But ‘simple’ is a relative term. The Europejski Grill has not lost its sophistication, as proved by a summer visit that saw us bowled over by a as a hazelnut soup with fig leaves and wild rocket and an artichoke confit served with a lightly grilled shallot cured for six weeks. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13

NOBU

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Famously founded by Meir Teper, Nobu Matsuhisa and some aspiring actor by the name of Robert De Niro, it’s a space that promises simplicity, elegance and minimalism, not to mention a harmonious sense of modern, zen-like luxury. On the menu, meanwhile, expect their signature squid ‘pasta’; new-style sashimi; and black cod miso as well as killer cocktails such as lychee & elderflower martini. ul. Wilcza 73

NOLITA

For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class. Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t. Who to credit? Two words: Jacek Grochowina. Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists. ul. Wilcza 46

SIGNATURE

Flirting with fine dining – yet at prices a notch below – the menu is a succession of highs that are a tribute to the sophisticated palate of chef Wojciech Kilian. Adding to the sense of being somewhere special is a setting inside the former inter-war Soviet Embassy. Adorned with original, auction-bought photos of Marilyn, pretty pink colors and luxury fittings, Signature washes over you in waves of bliss. ul. Poznańska 15

SZÓSTKA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Found on the sixth floor of a 1930s tower that was, for a time, ranked Europe’s second tallest building, Szóstka was the fine dining experience that EVERYONE loved over the last year. For that, credit goes to Dariusz Barański, a highly skilled chef fond of presenting such dishes as crab meat toast with lime and mango. And there’s the setting, as well: seen as a long, slick space decorated with steel tubing, bursts of greenery and a coved glass ceiling, dining here has been one of the Insider’s great, recent pleasures. Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa)

french

L’ARC

Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number

affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. Pick from numerous types of oysters or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails. ul. Puławska 16

georgian

RUSIKO

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” To the uninitiated, Georgian food is representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people; it’s a cuisine that values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen, and award-winning chef Davit Turkestanishvili the string-pulling master. There’s nowhere else in Poland that does Georgian better. Al. Ujazdowskie 22

greek

MR. GREEK SOUVLAKI

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” With its smart navy blue exterior festooned with pot plants, this tiny townhouse seduces all who pass – but if the front terrace is a gem, then enter to find a place that simply bubbles with warmth and the engaging air of gentle chaos. While there’s no frills or fancy with the food, there really doesn’t need to be: you dine on pillowy pittas and skewers of meat while enjoying carafes of wine brought to you by Takis, an enthusiastic owner that wears his heart on his sleeve. By the time the evening closes, you feel like one of the family – and that, surely, is the essence of hospitality. ul. Londyńska 16

MYKONOS

You’re struck first by the sheer size of Mykonos – it’s simply immense. Though undeniably slick, never does the cosmopolitan style lose the fundamental casual effervescence one naturally associates with the jewel of the Aegean. The food scores highly as well. It’s not rocket science – Greek cuisine rarely is – but it is everything you remember from your holiday by the sea: unfailingly delicious. ul. Grzybowska 62

indian

BOLLYWOOD LOUNGE

Known for their raucous dusk-tilldawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. ul. Nowy Świat 58

BOMBAJ MASALA

Not just the best looking of Warsaw’s Indian restaurants, Bombaj Masala also has some of the best cooking. With so many restaurants reliant on one ‘master pot’ for their curry, this classy venue feels unique in delivering a variety of rich, intense tastes. The vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling long after you leave. Al. Jana Pawła II 23

BOMBAJ MASALA PRAGA

Looks-wise it’s a feast for the eyes with 1,760 copper pipes hanging from the ceiling to generate a warming glow that mixes naturally with the brick finishes and spirited works of art. Differing from their mothership on JPII, the menu here involves street food-style tapas such as flat-fried Kachori dumplings and crispy cauliflower pakoras to outstanding tandoori dishes like marinated zander with garlic chili sauce. ul. Ząbkowska 29 (Centrum Praskie Koneser)

CURRY HOUSE

Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Suresh that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited as among the best in the city. If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54

GURU

The menu is a union of local, seasonal ingredients (organic this, farmyard that) and imported spices, coming together to blast the competition out of the water. From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. And when you want to take the nuclear option, sign the disclaimer before being flattened by the phaal – it’s Poland’s hottest curry! ul. Widok 8

INDIA GATE

Deviating from the more standard Indian menus (if you’ve seen one you’ve seen ’em all), order here for self-proclaimed “immunity boosting” dishes such as prawn garlic curry; lamb and spinach deewani; or chicken in a rich mango sauce. Specializing in delicious southern Indian dishes, find also a number of non-standard curries and starters including fluffy lentil pancakes and

KONESER GRILL

ELEKTROWNIA POWIŚLE

f & b super hubs

CENTRUM PRASKIE KONESER

Set in the revitalized space of a 19th century vodka factory, Koneser has seamlessly blended modernity with post-industrial scenery to create an energetic dynamic reflected by its rich cultural and artistic offer, niche boutiques, local stores and impressive food and drink offer. An island of prosperity in the otherwise largely gritty Praga suburb, props go to the Koneser Grill and Bombaj Masala. With the pandemic still lurking in the background, Koneser’s wide open plaza acts in its favor. Pl. Konesera

ELEKTROWNIA POWIŚLE

The big headlines last year were set aside for Elektrownia Powiśle, a magnificent reinvention of a historic power plant that once kept the city fed with electricity. Today, it’s feeding Warsaw something a helluva’ lot more tastier. Comfortingly stringent in their hygiene practices, you swing in for a food court that’s dazzling in both its offer and visual impact: neon is king! Cocktail bars, a craft beer point and an exhaustive selection of street food units (e.g. Philly cheese steak!) give cause to visit, and if you’re antsy about staying indoors then head out to find the immense spaces outside dotted with deckchairs and – as of this year – a huge, ventilated marquee with well-spaced tables and full shelter from the elements. Beyond these quite copious attractions, it is the retention of its historic character contrasted against the newly inserted elements that makes it such a visually enticing, standout hub. ul. Dobra 42

HALA KOSZYKI

HALA KOSZYKI

Introducing the absolutely bleeding obvious, Hala Koszyki changed Warsaw’s mindset when it first opened in 2016. Gathering dozens of niche venues under the wrought iron ceiling of a historic market place, it transformed the way Warsaw eats, meets, drinks and plays. Still highly influential, it’s guaranteed that once the weather warms up its front courtyard will again become one of the best people watching spots you’ll find in the city. ul. Koszykowa 63

FORT MOKOTÓW

If you’ve not visited Fort Mokotów before, shame on you. Like entering a secret world, a potholed lane flanked by scraggly bushes opens up to reveal a former Tsarist era military complex whose battered brick fortifications have since been turned over to house ad agencies, art studios and assorted creative think tanks. Food and drink also play a role here, with the lead taken by Żywa Kuchnia, an eatery that promises to regenerate the mind and body with their “bio-active, healing foods”. Schodki, meanwhile, is just about the most atmospheric gem you’ll ever wish to find: a place of battered brick, creaking wood and tangled vines, it’s a sublime setting for a bottle or three. ul. Racławicka 99 FORT 8

The penchant for reviving historical addresses and filling them with food and drink concepts has become a nationwide fixation, and Fort 8 stands as an example to all. Set at the point where Ursynów, Mokotów and Wilanów all meet, this 19th century Tsarist barracks has been buffed up spectacularly and its vaulted units infilled with workshops, stores and restaurants. Smashed sideways by the pandemic, the return of this upmarket bastion is good news for those that appreciated the charms of Dziruka od Klucza, Fort Bistro and Wine Corner. ul. Fort Służew 1B

dosa stuffed with cheese. If there’s a complaint, then it’s the chef’s reticence to go completely psychotic when it comes to assaulting us with spice. Al. Jerozolimskie 87

italian

ALTRO LOCALE

Presented by chef / owner Andrea Carillo, authentic, homespun tastes vie for your attention inside a charming space that’s chic and modern but never spartan. Passionate in its approach to modern Italian cuisine, Locale never misses a step. ul. Willowa 9

DZIURKA OD KLUCZA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Having upped sticks from their spiritual home in Powiśle, the DoK team magically teleported themselves to Fort 8 where they’ve carried on much as before: that is, knocking out beautiful homemade pasta and other Italian staples to appreciative audience that’s followed them for years. And it looks pretty fine as well – immerse yourself in an intimate and engaging interior decked out with door frames and hanging plants. Fort Służew 1B

FOCACCIA

The big surprise at Focaccia is that there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. Looking splendid in its crystal white colors, this dining room has plaudits aplenty for its selection of pizzas and more sophisticated mains: order the duck breast with marsala sauce for a failsafe choice. ul. Senatorska 13/15, focaccia.pl

LE BRACI CUCINA

Opened pretty much the minute that the lockdown was eased, the latest concept from restaurateur Daniel Pawełek is a celebration of la dolce vita, a stylish, carefree journey through the joys of modern Italy. Cooking, and that’s been left to Przemysław Samul, a chef with experience in several Michelin-starred international restaurants, and his menu is a deep dive into homemade pasta and Venetian-style cicchetti. Wine, too, plays a distinct role, though it’s their Negroni that could well become the ‘order of the summer’. Full report soon! ul. Górnośląska 24

PROSCIUTTERIA

When Prosciutteria first opened, ooh, three years or so ago, it was hailed a sensation and proof as to the far-reaching ambitions of Warsaw’s burgeoning gastro scene. Based around cold cuts and served on heavy wooden boards, here was a convincing Italian menu to be enjoyed in a snug, warm interior composed of pre-war floor tiles, exposed brickwork and black and white images of Italian stars. You felt like you were on holiday. Now also doubling as a deli, it’s an orgy of tastes: Ubriaco cheese bathed in Prosecco; salami from Milan and Naples; five-year-old Veneto cheese washed in beer. ul. Solec 85

japanese

ARIGATOR

This Japanese-style noodle joint whisks you to the narrow, steamy back alleys of late night Tokyo. Clad in corrugated iron and dark, weathered wooden slats, it’s got that buzzing sense of chaos that feels familiar from the films. And the food, gosh, they get that right as well. From a tiny menu order up dainty pork dumplings, braised kakuni bacon or deep-fried tofu before hitting up a feisty bowl of ramen emanating life-affirming goodness. A complex tangle of interlacing flavors, it’s the sort of dish you’d happily queue up for: and yes, people do. ul. Piękna 54

SATO GOTUJE

Signposted by its own splash of Manga-style art adorning the exterior wall, this Commie era pavilion feels small and squashed and assembled on a budget. Who cares? No-one. An exciting departure from the norm – no sushi here – the menu is a selection of bitey Japanese street food such as grilled mackerel fillet with shavings of grated radish. Prices and quality ensure you don’t stop until you’ve gobbled your way through much of the menu. ul. Pawińskiego 24

SHOKU

At Shoku, the mix and match approach when it comes to Asia (if it’s tasty, stick it on the menu!) feels rational and put together. Never short of custom, locals gather inside a bright, contemporary space (or vast back garden) to slurp down bowls of ramen, share shoku bowls or click chopsticks over small plates of dim sum and wonton. ul. Karolkowa 30

UKI UKI

How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. ul. Krucza 23/31

WABU

Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the

evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire)

YATTA

Originally born from a food truck, Yatta’s stationary address is everything you want: scruffy, frayed and busy, and the living embodiment of the street food vibe. The ideal outlet for their concept, step inside a rackety interior to join other hip creatures Instagramming the only jiro ramen to be found in Warsaw. Once you’re done doing that, kick back to slurp over big, steamy bowl of spicy miso ramen. Bartoszewicza 3

korean

HESU

After a pandemic enforced slowdown, Warsaw’s growing appetite for Korean food has returned with vigor. Busy with a passing uni crowd, the young spirit is reflected by an interior that’s fun and hip – a bamboo bar and lots of different colored surfaces. Thus far, the raves have all been about the food which many claim to be the best Korean in Warsaw – full report next month! ul. Oboźna 9

THE COOL CAT

Refusing to take themselves too seriously, the angle is fun and forward-thinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasionally wacky menu of Americanized Asian food (the matcha ice cream donut is insane in both idea and taste!). The cocktails are equally eccentric yet also reveal some devastating talent: the Kimchi Mary is pungent, punchy and above all potent! ul. Solec 38 (also on Marszałkowska 8) tiger that gazes from the wall. ul. Olesińska 2

KOREANKA

A courtyard cubbyhole that’s scuffed, informal and fashionably ramshackle. Such has been the stir created by it, diners arrive in the knowledge that they’ll be scavenging a table and eating what little might be left over from another sell-out day. Yet here’s the point of contention: is it really all that’s cracked up? The kimchi is exemplary, but not everything works so well. ul. Koszykowa 59 SORA

Korean food is big news in Warsaw, though increasingly it’s the Americanized K-food style you’ll find. Sora returns to the roots with tabletop BBQs, lively spices and lashings of Makkoli wine. The number of Korean guests is an endorsement in itself. ul. Wronia 45

latin & spanish

KOREATOWN REST

Here, the ubiquitous KFC (Korean fried chicken) is all crunch and crackle and the bulgogi tender, juicy and the right side of sweet; accompanying them, an assortment of bitey dishes heaving with chilli flecked kimchi, daikon radish and pickled bits and bobs. All very good, but nothing compared to the bossam, braised pork belly scooped up by hand inside glistening perilla leaves: it’s a dish that soothes, gratifies and leaves diners looking every bit as pleased as the pipe-smoking CEVICHE BAR

With chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche is the default order with the Atun one of the best sellers: chunks of tuna given a rich zing with the addition of chili, lime and roasted coriander. The Japanese influence on South America’s dining habits isn’t forgotten either, with must-haves including the salmon tiraditos. Served with

seasonal sensations

LUNAPARK NOCNY MARKET

LUNAPARK

When Lunapark first premiered in 2019 we named it “the most imaginatively insane F&B concept that Warsaw’s ever seen”. Nothing we’ve seen since has changed our mind on that. Occupying a derelict outdoor leisure complex, this weekend market gets a Coney Island makeover complete with a bar set around a carousel; a circus-style big top entered via the mouth of a grinning clown; a shot bar disguised as a shooting gallery; and a bank of fairground games. A wild world of top quality food stalls, games, drinks and weirdness, it’s a haven of hip and a hedonist’s asylum. Defined by its incredible energy and madcap backdrop, visiting at the weekend is one of the big joys of Warsaw. ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 407

NOCNY MARKET

Will it ever die? Three years after they first announced their permanent closure (or is it four!?), Nocny Market have returned for a final hurrah – so they say. Set out on an abandoned railway platform livened up with strips of neon, this weekend night market has become nothing sort of an institution. Gathering together dozens of street food vendors to form a patchwork of uber cool traders and hip little stands, organizers have this time promised to give preferential treatment to those hit hardest by the pandemic, as well as brands just starting out in their gastro adventure. To miss it is to miss out on an essential part of summer! ul. Towarowa 3 (Warszawa Główna)

OFF BRZESKA TARG ŚNIADANIOWY

OFF BRZESKA

Whenever a new street food hub open, the temptation is to benchmark it against the Nocny Market. But OFF has its own distinct sense of identity, a factor helped by its location. Set against Brzeska street – a chipped, broken back road with something of a hairy past reputation – this alone contributes to a raw vibe that’s helped by the presence of an arty Praga crowd that feels far more Bohemian than anything in town. Though relatively small in its size, the vibe is fab: drink craft beer under overhanging canvas sheets strung with colorful streamers that wave in the breeze. Not short on vegan options, the alternative feeling is aided and abetted by DJs, local bands and a crowd determined to make it a night to remember. ul. Brzeska 25

TARG ŚNIADANIOWY

Alternating locations between Mokotów and Żoliborz, this open-air weekend extravaganza is a bit of everything: a food market, a picnic, even a place to get the bike fixed or to stock up on vintage vinyl. First debuting about a five-thousand years ago, you could point to Targ Śniadaniowy as being Warsaw’s first true street food concept – doing so wouldn’t be incorrect. Still boasting a staunch following, check in on their social media accounts to see what’s in store – not ones to stand still, you’ll find most weekends assigned a different theme or ethnic focus.

teriyaki and sweet potato mash, it’s a joy of satisfying sensations: sweet, dreamy, spicy, creamy. ul. Twarda 4

TAPAS GASTROBAR

The popular practice is to order so many plates and bottles that the table becomes a Magic Eye of kaleidoscope patterns. A great place for sharing and general interaction, the ambiance and quality belies the corporate anonymity of the location. Though the gazapcho is first class it’s bettered by the patatas bravos: fried potatoes in a ballsy tomato sauce. ul. Grzybowska 63

mexican

DOS TACOS

Who doesn’t like asking for something that’s ‘under the counter’. In the case of Dos Tacos, doing so means inquiring about their range of ‘salsa clandestinas’: extra hot sauces designed for reckless thrill-seekers. But the true secret weapon at Dos Tacos is Isabel Balderas, a Mexican chef that has mastered the bright, bold tastes of her native country. ul. Jasna 22

EL POPO

Age hasn’t wearied El Popo one iota. Old it might be, but that hasn’t been to the detriment of the atmosphere. A place of happiness, the full color of the Mexican kitchen is brought to life via the full-fisted flavors of chef Angel Aceves. ul. Senatorska 27

GRINGO BAR

A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done. Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders. ul. Odolańska 15

LA SIRENA

Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh; but if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a new dimension to Warsaw’s parched Mexican landscape, highlights inc. poblano peppers stuffed with pork/beef, peach, apple and apricots, as well as a ‘near death’ salsa that’s finally living up to its name. ul. Piękna 54

SENOR LUCAS

Submerged down one of those cramped, little walk-down units on ul. Poznańska, its tiny proportions (one table and a counter to lean on) and basic aesthetics (a blackboard and some crates) belie a standard that sits there with the best – actually, it’s become our favorite Mex in town! Based around handmade tortillas, find a small menu of burritos and rolled quesadillas stuffed with marinaded meats and ringing with peppy salsas and big flavor contrasts. ul. Hoża 41 (enter from Poznańska 16)

middle eastern

JOEL SHARING CONCEPT

Joel Sharing Concept seeks to channel the atmosphere and tastes typically found in the food markets and bazaars of contemporary Tel Aviv. As such, find yourself ordering from a small galaxy of bites that range from pittas stuffed with beef and lamb kofta to mezze dishes such as baked beetroot served with stewed tomatoes, cranberries and cumin. ul. Koszykowa 1

LE CEDRE

With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. Al. Solidarności 61

LE CEDRE 84

To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. Al. Solidarności 84

MAGHREB

Maghreb is a place to call home – a warm, familiar restaurant whose bijou interior falls on the good side of casual. The sense of natural goodness is emphasized by the addons that start landing on the table: a creamy baba ganoush with a gently smoky taste; zingy tabbouleh salad that screams with perky freshness; and an addictive mechouia dip made with roasted peppers and tomatoes. But these are a precursor for mains such as tajine dishes defined by their big-hearted richness. ul. Burakowska 9

polish (modern)

BARON THE FAMILY

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Set around a spacious network of

canopied outdoor wooden cabins, the Insider’s former Chef of the Year, Aleksander Baron, presents a casual food offer around his passion for ‘food from the fire’. Yes sir, that means suckling pigs; sausages flavored with gingerbread spice; tartare served inside fried bread; piles of ribs; and other hefty foods that make you feel good about life. Having evolved from maverick talent to national treasure, this is The Good Baron at his thundering best! Krakowskie Przedmieście 4

BEZ GWIAZDEK

Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the mundane Polski feast. For many, it’s the best restaurant in the city! ul. Wiślana 8

ELIXIR BY DOM WÓDKI

The chef has taken local classics and redrafted the recipes with the swoosh of a contemporary pen. The outcome is a pleasure from start to finish: a life affirming żurek, a tartar that could fulfill ambassadorial duties for Poland, and a handsome beef tenderloin sprinkled with crispy potato shavings. Thoughtful pairings with lesser-known, boutique vodkas add another dimension that serves to complete this pleasing, patriotic adventure. ul. Wierzbowa 9/11

KIELISZKI NA PRÓŻNEJ

You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. ul. Próżna 12

POLANA SMAKÓW

Compact and woodsy, Polana Smaków has lost none of its copious charm since trading a no-man’s land location for city center Warsaw. Few chefs do a better job than Andrzej Polan when it comes to making herring sexy, with his interpretation arriving with a homemade bagel and blobs of orange pumpkin. It’s sophisticated yet reassuringly simple. ul. E. Plater 14

polish (classic)

PYZY FLAKI GORĄCE

Insulate yourself against the chill with a hearty helping of homemade dumplings that are squished into jars. Budget-minded in both cost and appearance, it’s become one of Praga’s worst kept secrets with several of Poland’s top food writers praising it to the hilt. Filled with a wide cast of characters, nowhere does a better job of expressing the district’s soul than this ramshackle eatery. ul. Brzeska 29/31

SCHABOWY

The simplicity of both the design and the dishes belies the quality. Start with a classic tartar before advancing into the real reason you’re here: a choice of breaded pork chops made from Mangalica or Złotnicka pork. This is Polish home cooking at its best. ul. Obrzeżna 1

STARY DOM

WELCOME TO GREECE!

For authentic Greek food & hospitality, look no further than Mr. Greek Souvlaki!

ul. Londyńska 16 (Saska Kępa)

BEST of WARSAW

2020

Insider Approved: Best of Warsaw WINNER 2020!

history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. ul. Puławska 104/106

seafood

LOKAL NA RYBĘ

Open for something along the lines of 18-hours per week (!), the limited times have created a supply / demand situation that makes reservations almost mandatory. Touting the basic aesthetics of a pop-up, the simple surrounds are outweighed by a weekly-changing menu showcasing what most foodies understand to be the most extraordinary fish in Warsaw. ul. Kwiatowa 1/3/4

steak houses

BUTCHERY & WINE

When Butchery opened in 2011 it completely transformed the way Poland viewed its steak. The first ‘new wave’ meat joint in the country, it’s launch lit the fuse for a steak revolution. Now an institution in its own right, this cosmopolitan spot remains one of the most sought out bookings in the capital. ul. Żurawia 22

HOŻA

Wine and steak: it sounds simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. ul. Hoża 25A KONESER GRILL

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Brought to you from the same stable as Rozbrat 20 and Butchery & Wine, the Ferment Group’s latest opening ticks just about every box going. Amid smooth lighting, blond woods, metal fixtures and outbreaks of rich teal colors, visit for a menu based around the concept of ‘fire’. Yes, that means meat. But beyond that, do also anticipate unexpected glories such as quail Scotch eggs and grilled Fine de Claire oysters. It’s all stonkingly brilliant. ul. Ząbkowska 29 (Centrum Praskie Koneser)

MIĘSNY

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Already firmly embedded in the hearts of the surrounding community (and beyond), this local champion has long been hailed by foodies for a menu that offers an atavistic joyride through primal, caveman pleasures: if there’s a better chateaubriand being served in Poland then we’ve yet to find it. Set inside a monochrome-floored, white-tiled interior adorned with an azure-colored neon and graphic illustrative wall art depicting tasty farmyard animals, it does more than simply serve our favorite meaty cuts; it makes the neighborhood feel complete. ul. Walecznych 64

thai

BANGKOK SOI

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” In a city where most Thai is overpriced and under-spiced Bangkok Soi are a knight in shining armor. Dispensing entirely of formality, order from a crumpled sheet of paper at the counter before seating yourself in a basic room decorated with Chang beer pennants and Muangthong United football scarves. Replicating the street tastes of Bangkok, what next arrives is a whir of full-throated flavors that you never expected. It’s easy to become hopelessly lost in waves of bliss. Al. Jana Pawła II 50

BASIL & LIME

One of only a handful of Thai restaurants in Poland to be certified by the international Thai Select organization, Basil & Lime are back after being forced to close their original Mokotow venue. Complete with a beautifully shaded pavement terrace, you can’t help but suspect the move has worked in their favor. Opening themselves to an entirely new audience in the center, this cult venue looks set to last on account of the skilled cooking of Thanawat Na Nagara. More on this soon! ul. Oboźna 9

THAI THAI

A visual feast of ink black colors and shimmering deities this is by far the most formal of Warsaw’s Thai options – and also the best. Peaks include a grilled beef salad full of citrusy twists, lively flavors and vibrant colors, and sundried pork neck that’s all manly crunch and nose-clearing sauce. And then there’s the tuna tartar, a dish zinging with fresh hits of coriander, mint, lime and chili. There’s no point in complimenting the chef, he’s heard it all before. Pl. Teatralny 3

THAISTY

Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day, yet despite this many have voiced concerns that Thaisty’s runaway success has come at a cost to the overall quality. Even so, the BBQ skewers remain a good order. Pl. Bankowy 4

ice cream

FRANK WARSZAWA

Mixing, so they say, French philosophy with New York creativity and Polish heart, a visit to Frank is like happening upon a little, local secret. The pastries are a standout, but you know what, so too is the ice cream. Pastry or ice cream? Spoil yourself: have both. ul. Polna 18/20

ICE POT

Ice Pot finished has long been one of the Insider’s favorite scoop – and they keep getting better. Produced by a true enthusiast, the seasonal flavors and occasionally wacky experiments (mulled wine, apple pie, etc.) never score less than a perfect ten. And if the tastes are a different level, then the service is as well. Hala Gwardii

JEDNOROŻEC

What is it with Mokotów and ice cream? Amid a hugely competitive field, the wide flavor choice, quality ingredients and loving hand of Jednorożec mark them a notch above their immediate competitors. ul. Narbutta 38

NA KOŃCU TĘCZY

Named in honor of the rainbow that once stood in the center of Pl. Zbawiciela, this vibrant spot occasionally likes to push the envelope when it comes to flavors, but it’s the fruity flavors that seem to work the best: the kiwi mascarpone is another level, as is the apple sorbet. Al. Wyzwolenia 15 NITRO LODY

Frozen with liquid nitrogen, just watching the process is enough to make customers feel like they’re watching some NASA sponsored experiment. Smoother than midnight velvet, the result sees super creamy classic tastes jazzed up with sprinkles of Lion bar, Gummi Bears and other such greatness. ul. Zwycięzców 11

PALLONE

Made to Italian recipes reputed to be 160-years old (with some personal magic thrown in to boot), Pallone pride themselves on quality ingredients: chocolate from Belgian and Colombia, citrus fruits from Sicily, and the finest cream and milk you’ll find in Poland. There’s nothing too wacky about the flavor choice but the tastes will punch you out. Wow!!! ul. Brzeska 29/31

QUATTRO SI

This Pruszków-based gelateria raised eyebrows earlier this year after it was ranked 42nd in the latest edition of the Gelato Festival World Rankings. Owned by Peter Bertoti, the parlor is no stranger to accolades, having previously scooped domestic awards for its plum and blueberry flavors. ul. Jasna 4B (Pruszków)

ROSZKI

Although it looks rather budget-minded, Roszki have won hearts for an offer that’s especially strong on chocolate-based ice creams. The chocolate habanero comes with a fiery twist and a fan club that extends beyond Muranów’s geographic borders – full marks! ul. Andersa 37

STARA LODZIARNIA

Interesting variations such as coconut & blackberry are well received, but it’s the basics that are truly exceptional: no-one does strawberry better! Made outside of Warsaw by the owner’s parents (and to a recipe coined by the family before the war), the scoops here speak of a true labor of love. ul. Francuska 48

ULICA BAŚNIOWA

The choice isn’t just vast, it’s sugar-free thanks to their commitment to using natural stevia instead. Few leave with anything but rave reviews, and their cause is furthered by an equally impressive choice of cakes and tarts. It’s a Żoliborz legend – and rightfully so. Al. Wojska Polskiego 41

VEGESTACJA

Known as the vegan square mile on account of its proliferation of vegan restaurants and cafes, it’s no surprise to find a vegan gelato stop (‘vegelato’) opening in the area. Top marks to sugar-free creations such as the mango lass or raspberry & cardamom. ul. Poznańska 26

specialty food

BIANCA

Run by Puglia-raised Francesco and his Polish partner Kaja, hit up Bianca for mozzarella that has won the heart of Warsaw. Pairing recipes gleaned from their time in Italy with the best Polish milk they could find, the results have floored the foodie public. fb.com/biancacheese

KOKO & ROY DELI

One of the good things to come from Covid? The creation of this online service. Find high-quality, elevated comfort food including ready prepared meals by British chef Gareth Rowntree. It’s mostly stuff you’ll already know how to cook, the difference is that this reaches a level that’s of scintillating standard: for a taco night to remember order G.’s signature tortillas and banging chicken tinga! kokoandroydeli.com

RUMUŃSKIE SMAK

Specializing in Romanian products, this delicatessen come with a choice of over 600 items. Among these find jams, preserves, cheese, cured meats, confectionary and alcohol – artisan cider included! Bestsellers include spicy Mici sausages. ul. Puławska 98

russian & ukrainian

REST.BACZEWSKICH

Seemingly designed to make visitors go ‘woah’, Baczewskich is nothing if not a fully-fledged exercise in unrestrained fancy: a composition of plush fabrics, gleaming glassware, framed certificates and contemporary extravagance, the high impact visuals set the tone for a distinguished few hours dining on the cuisine of Old Poland and pre-war Lviv. Though modernized in their look, these are good old-fashioned tastes befitting of the palace that they’re served in. Al. Szucha 17/19

SKAMIEJKA

As a social point, this family-run restaurant works incredibly well. Filled with assorted clutter and Russian bits and pieces (album covers, books, jars of pickles and jumble sale finds), the welcome is second-to-none, while beverages include a wide range of vodka and beer from the former Soviet-bloc nations. The food is hefty, comfort-driven and ideal for long, wintry nights. ul. Ząbkowska 37

vegan

EDAMAME VEGAN SUSHI

Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-maneuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: pak choy, shiso, avocado, eggplant, oyster mushrooms, asparagus, etc. In HappyCow’s rankings, it scores the highest of the lot. ul. Wilcza 11

LEONARDO VERDE

Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte, and you’ll see why after ordering the ‘hot romantic’. ul. Poznańska 13

NO PROBLEM

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” No Problem’s menu registers a direct hit when it comes to health-minded comfort food but there’s a bar scene as well with a range of craft beers served in a buzzy space that’s Berlin in its spirit: rough-hewn walls painted with street art, wobbly wooden furniture and posters advertising upcoming gigs. There’s no longer a shortage of places that have nailed the whole resto-bar concept, but this is the first vegan joint to try and actually pull it off. ul. Bracka 20

TEL AVIV

A major icebreaker in terms of Poland’s vegan revolution, Tel Aviv woo with a super-funky, design that evokes the spirit of the Israeli capital through its raw finishes and street art motif. The food is a bonanza of Middle Eastern tastes and has, in the past, been wolfed down by passing members of Depeche Mode. ul. Poznanska 11

VEGAN RAMEN SHOP

Nothing short of a phenomenon, that they’ve continued to expand in the face of a pandemic illustrates the demand. Now found in Saska Kępa (a cool venue decorated with ‘levitating shelves’), Mokotów (wall art, bamboo and a giant cat), and Muranów (Street Fighter arcade game and a pink surfboard), their fans head here for what many have described as ‘the best noodles in the world!’ Order the spicy miso ramen and you too will become a convert. ul Finlandzka 12 a, ul. Kazimierzowska 43 & Al. Jana Pawła II 52/54

VEG DELI

An entrance beset with candles, plant pots and seasonal veg charms people in, and they tend to stay on to dine on creative vegetarian options that absolutely always hit the spot. Set on leafy Radna street, the summer terrace is a joy. ul. Radna 14

Drink!

First Sip

VHS Bar Poznańska 7

A NEW IDOL IS BORN

The casualty list was horrific. Costing the lives of legends such as Koko & Roy, Kieliszki and Zkurczybyk, the lockdown was brutal in its cull. Nonetheless, fears that the area around Poznańska would lose its sense of life have proved ill-founded, and partly that’s thanks to VHS, an 80s-themed cocktail bar snuck inside a pocket-sized brick cellar lit with fun, garish neon and pics of the era’s defining legends. Supremely fun, order cocktails named after figures like Cyndi Lauper, Billy Idol and, of course, The Hoff, and enjoy them on a pavement terrace that teems with life and laughter once evening strikes.