A HIDDEN GEM-BA!

Relocating themselves after years on Wilcza, the new-look Gemba has become a star of Chmielna…

LOCATION, LOCATION

We’ve had something of a rocky relationship with Chmielna. Once one of Warsaw’s key high streets, the last decade or so has seen it degenerate into a scuffed-looking space filled with shuttered shopfronts and tacky bubble tea joints. That said, a flurry of bars have given it wings, not least places such as Hopito, Hoppiness and Pinta. Found in a courtyard just off Warsaw’s most maligned piece of concrete (that’s the scandalously spartan Pl. Pięciu Rogów), the launch of Gemba give another reason to give the area a crack.

BEFORE…

Formerly of Wilcza, Gemba’s seven-year tenure in south-central saw it acquire a cult reputation. Accessed over a steel walkway, this two-level space became synonymous with late nights. Often open waaaay after the other neighborhood bars had closed, it was a bar that many used to put the concluding final touches to an epic night out.

AND NOW…

Shifting north in January, the Gemba you see now has lost none of its party-first spir- it. Adopting a loose-fitting PRL style, interiors include wood-paneled walls decorated with pics of Pope JPII, sporting pennants and framed artworks from the heyday of the Polish School of Poster. Tricked out with retro wallpaper, the perches by the bar are the most sought, but spillover seating can also be found in a winter garden enclosed by green and scarlet drapes – very David Lynch.

FOOD & DRINK

The choice of beers feels far more modest than their previous address, but the fridge covers all the bases with beers from solid breweries like Bernard and Obolon, as well as Polish craft from established names such as Pinta, Trzy Kumpli and Inne Beczki. There’s nothing too maverick here, but the choice is broad enough to satisfy a beer monster’s cravings. Hovering around the PLN 30 mark, the house cocktails involve classics like the Manhattan and Old Fashioned, as well as more unusual options like Ewa Bem – Gibson’s gin, pink grapefruit, maple syrup and rosemary. Also making a big deal out of their Polish tapas, stomach liners come in the form of white sauage. Herring, Poland’s version of black pudding – a.k.a. kaszanka, and a quite fabulous tartar.

IT FEELS LIKE…

It doesn’t just look fun, it feels it as well. Busy through the week, as the rainbow flag attests this is an inclusive space that feels pleasingly international. Drawing a crowd that’s late-20s upwards, there’s a hell of a lot to enjoy here – DJ sets, jazz jams and ‘drag bingo’ serve to only reinforce that impression.

Coming Up

Those familiar with Wrocław will doubtless know the Neon Side Gallery – a courtyard filled with well over twenty neon signs dating from Poland’s years behind the Iron Curtain. Providing the paperwork can be provided, we’re told that this courtyard’s owner hopes to do something similar. We’re not holding our breath, but the idea alone is completely delicious.

Beer We Go Again

For the 15th time, the Polish capital is gearing up for the Warsaw Beer Festival

Welcome To Warsaw

Withstanding significant recent challenges, Poland’s craft beer sector has rolled with the punches to maintain its rocketing reputation – and that looks set to be demonstrated at the forthcoming edition of the WBF (Warsaw Beer Festival).

“Taking everything into account, the craft beer scene couldn’t be in any better shape and that’s reflected by the choice of beers you’ll find at the festival,” says Paweł Leszczyński, the festival’s founder.

“Around Poland, young people have come back from abroad inspired, and they’re trying to create something new – and you can apply that to the beer scene as well. With so little heritage to reflect upon, our brewers have proved to be among the most experimental.” Moreover, they’ve transpired to be quick-learning perfectionists, as well.

The Beer

Although a handful of select foreign breweries will be present, the WBF exists to showcase the skills of Poland’s own homegrown brewers. “Some breweries will have been planning for the WBF for six-months,” says Leszczyński. “In this regard, it’s ultra-competitive. Everyone wants to show that they’re the best. For the consumer, that means there’s no such thing as a bad beer at the WBF.”

Trend Watch

When Poland’s first craft beer was tapped just over a decade ago, there could have been few that would have imagined the different roads it would travel down. But though shock factor beers will play a role at the WBF, Leszczyński expects a re-appraisal of the classics.

“West Coast beers are again a thing, and low-to-no alcohol beers continue to enjoy popularity. Domestically, we’re also seeing a lot of so-called ice beers being produced. With over 1,000 different beers, you are going to find something to fall in love with, though I’d really recommend visitors spend time talking to the brewers. Think of them as beer ambassadors.”

Made In Poland

Although Poland lacks the beer history of Germany, Belgium, Czechia and so forth, that’s not to say the country doesn’t have its own heritage beers. “Our smoked Grodziskie-style beers are amazing,” says Leszczyński, “you don’t have to like them, but they’re absolutely unique. Furthermore, I honestly think our Baltic porters are the best in the world.”

In Numbers

1,200

The number of different beers available at WBF

500

The number of taps

200

The number of beer premiers

18,000

The number of visitors expected

65

The number of breweries present

ONE IN A MILLION!

As per previous editions, expect much buzz around the Newbie Zone. “We really want to spotlight the best of the little guys,” says Leszczyński. “The smallest brewery only produces 200 liters per batch, so if you’re not at the WBF it’s going to be

What: 15th Warsaw Beer Festival

Where: Legia Stadium (Łazienkowska 3)

When: March 23rd to March 25th practically impossible to ever try their beer.”

Infrastructure

From chaotic beginnings when it was held in an industrial unit in Mokotów, the WBF has developed confidently. In this respect, its tenure at Legia Warszawa’s stadium has proved key. Well-adapted to coping with unwieldy crowds, the state-of-the-art football ground has helped lift the WBF to new levels.

“I think a beer festival is defined by where it is held,” says Leszczyński. “We couldn’t have found a better venue – here we have a place that’s central and easily accessed by bus or cab. And show me another beer festival where you have clean toilets and no queue to get in!”

MORE THAN BEER…

You suspect that the WBF would still succeed even if a prohibition was announced. “It’s not just Poland’s beer scene that has grown,” says Leszczyński, “but the scope of the festival – it’s a given that we have the country’s best beer, but we wanted the WBF to offer more which is why you’ll now find 17 food trucks, a sauna, spicy food competitions, standup, workshops, and games zones.”

Web: warsawbeerfestival.com

Tickets: Available online

PLN 20 (single-day pass)

PLN 39 (three-day)

Premium packages also available from PLN 99 to PLN 199.

INSIDER’S SECRET

Subtly sneaked away from the clamor of Marszałkowska, El Cafetero is the neighborhood secret that all need to know…

A Family Affair

First born as a roastery overseen by a father and son, El Cafetero’s growing reputation all but demanded a café in which their results could be showcased. Headed by Milena, the sister of head roaster Konrad, it’s not just her coffee knowledge that has helped the café grow wings, but also the warmth of her welcome – after one visit, you leave with the million dollar feeling of being a seasoned regular.

The Place

Don’t let the Marszałkowska address fool you. Set away from the parping traffic and wailing trams, El Cafetero sits amid a row of stores found in the shadow cast by the back end of Pl. Zbawiciela’s iconic church. Presenting quite a sight, its patinated domes and intricate steeples have you thinking you’re somewhere cute and quaint like Vilnius or Lublin. Once the warmer weather hits, admire it from the bench that rests against El Cafetero’s façade. For certain, that bench sees a lot of action – absolutely tiny in its size, four people are enough to make the interior feel crowded. But what a pleasant space it is: touting a wall of coffee-themed Polaroids and little hanging plant pots, you’re happy to dawdle in this light and bright feelgood space. If you’re in luck, that means snaring one of the window seats.

Drink Me

Neatly presented on the shelves by the entrance, discover the biggest glories of the El Cafetero brand. Bagged up and begging for your enjoyment, these are almost exclusively single origin coffees from Africa and Central and South America. Doing all the fancy filtered stuff, even those bamboozled by the coffee geekery will admire such standards as the silky flat white.

Order This

The tiled emerald green counter has been designed to leave just enough space for tempting tasties such as vegan-friendly chocolate and cherry tarts. You might be here for the coffee, but neither should you miss out on these little treasures.