BREAD & BREAKFAST

Simple but impactful, Baken has already secured its spot on the foodie map of Warsaw…

When René Redzepi announced the closure of his innovative temple of gastronomy, NOMA, it seemed to confirm the tanking stock of the fine dining sector. But if fine dining is on the way out, then comfort dining is well and truly in – and what can be more comforting than bread and all-day breakfast?

The Place

Pronounced ‘bach-in’ rather than ‘bacon’, Baken shines like a beacon amid the soulless, socialist edifices that line the streets of Krucza and Żurawia. Stepping inside, Baken feels like a merger between the chic streets of Paris and the cozy corners of Copenhagen, with its delectable breads and inviting atmosphere hinting at French and Danish charm. It’s hard not to be hit with a wave of excitement entering, with the energy conducted through an open kitchen and expressed by handsome staff clad in white t-shirts. Enthusiastic and knowledgeable, they gush about the dishes as if they were their own secret family recipes.

SIMPLE AS F**K

That’s Baken’s own mission statement, with plates presented in a manner that smacks of Yotam Ottolenghi: think organized chaos. Using ingredients sourced from the market at Hala Mirowska, and batch-brewed coffee from Java Roaster (make use of the halfprice refill!), it’s a place where the product is the hero.

What We Ate

The must-try is the creamy scrambled eggs from the happy hens of Rozwienica. Accompanied by kale fried with butter and garlic, find them crowned with day-old breadcrumbs and a shower of Emilgrana cheese and chives. When it comes to hidden gems, look on the side menu for thinly-sliced avocado seasoned with chili, oil and Malden salt – post to Insta and it’ll definitely enliven your algorithm.

As for the sweeter side, heavenly plum Crêpes Suzette come soaked in aromatic cardamom syrup before being served with homemade crème fraîche, pancakes and gingerbread crumble. It’s a feast for the senses. And, of course, don’t forego the bread. There’s three to choose from, with the options numbering the Berlin (90% rye and 10% wheat), a classic sourdough with poppy seeds, and a Polish staple called Ziarenko, a soft wheat bread with a delicate skin and mixed seeds such as linseed, sesame, poppy, and nigella.

Celebrate The Chefs

Leading the line is Michał Toczyłowski, a chef who gained his experience in renowned establishments such as Atelier Amaro, Nolita, Nabo, Sowa i Przyjaciele, and Bez Tytylu. As for the baking, that’s left to Artem Artemev, a star in his own right.

Insider Knowledge

If you’re stocking up on bread, then why not snap up an organic cotton tote bag complete with Baken’s striking san-serif logo. If you’re visiting in the evening, then check their refined selection of natural wine. - KD

Small Is Beautiful

There’s a saying in English that “three’s a crowd”. In Japonki, that’s actually true. Seating just three people (“we’ll squeeze in four if you all know each other,” laughs the chef, Max), the dimensions are so tight that diners find themselves practically on top of the staff – literally. Perched on a narrow bench, eating is done looking right down onto the sushi staff working in a space below that can’t be much bigger than a bathtub. Lean a little forward, and you’re almost able to tap them on the head with a chopstick.

THEN…

Given their previous guise, that is all something of a comedown. Japonki, you may remember, became a foodie buzzword when they first launched in Browary in 2021. Pushing a look that was casual but cool, there it was all dappled terrazzo flooring, high-gloss shades of midnight black, and intricate red shelving stacked like a cat’s cradle. Shining through it all, a magenta neon to underscore the pre-club vibe. No arguments about it, it was the most fashionable sushi haunt in town.

NOW…

Soaring costs made that location unviable, but rather than wave the white flag, the Japonki team moved across town to settle on Lwowska. Downsizing drastically, so tiny is the current location that you’re likely to miss it if you blink. And with no sign outside, that’s not the exaggeration it may at first seem. But is any of that a bad thing? Absolutely not. As on-trend as the previous address was, it smacked of artifice. Moreover, it’s size and look made it feel a little impersonal.

Here, on Lwowska, the intimate dimensions dictate that by the time you leave, you know everyone there. That’s a helluva’ nice feeling. Moreover, the private and undiscovered nature of Japonki reminds you of the kind of secret little sushi spots that Antony Bourdain would seek on his jaunts to the backstreets of Japan. Woodclad, and with a few strips of neon angled around the counter, there’s not much to the design, but it doesn’t need anything more.

THE WIN…

So yes, we approve of the look, but it’s the food that’s the winner. Leading the lads in the kitchen (if you can call it that) is Dawid Uszyński, a chef whose history includes stints in numerous Michelin-starred London eateries as well as five-years at Yashin Ocean House.

The fish that glisten at you are the best available, and they’re chopped with finesse before being meticulously placed on short-grained rice blended with a selection of Japanese vinegars. Served with smoky ponzu jelly, our nigiri box was faultless in every respect. As unusual as it might look when compared to Warsaw’s other Japanese choices, Japonki is without fail among the market leaders in terms of tastes, atmosphere, and overall greatness.