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Contents
Plan Your Trip
Welcome to Edinburgh
Top Sights
Eating Drinking Shopping
Museums & Galleries
Festivals & Events
Architecture
Views
For Kids
Tours
Activities
Four Perfect Days Need to Know
Edinburgh Neighbourhoods
Explore Edinburgh
Old Town
Holyrood & Arthur’s Seat
New Town
West End & Dean Village
Stockbridge
Leith
South Edinburgh
Worth a Trip
Rosslyn Chapel
Survival Guide
Survival Guide
Before You Go
Arriving in Edinburgh
Getting Around
Essential Information
Behind the Scenes
Our Writer
Welcome to Edinburgh
Edinburgh is one of Britain’s most beautiful and dramatic cities, with its castle perched on the summit of ancient crags and the medieval maze of the Old Town gazing across verdant gardens to the elegant Georgian squares and streetscapes of the New Town. History and architecture are leavened with vibrant bars, innovative restaurants and Scotland’s most stylish shops.
Cityscape view from Calton Hill | VICHIE81/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Edinburgh Top Sights
1 Edinburgh Castle
Scotland’s most popular tourist attraction.
PHOTOFIRES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Edinburgh Top Sights
1 Real Mary King’s Close
Lost world beneath the streets.
RODOLFO CONTRERAS/Alamy ©
Edinburgh Top Sights
1 National Museum of Scotland
Treasure house of Scottish culture.
FRANCESCO RICCIARDI EXP/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Edinburgh Top Sights
1 Palace of Holyroodhouse
The Queen’s Edinburgh residence.
S-F/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Edinburgh Top Sights
1 Scottish Parliament Building
Visual feast of modern architecture.
CLAUDIO DIVIZIA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Edinburgh Top Sights
1 Scottish National Portrait Gallery
Visual encyclopedia of famous Scots.
LOU ARMOR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Edinburgh Top Sights
1 Princes Street Gardens
Green oasis in the city centre.
CLAUDIO DIVIZIA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Edinburgh Top Sights
1 Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art
Masterpieces of contemporary art.
FLYSBT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Edinburgh Top Sights
1 Royal Botanic Garden
Tranquil haven of lush greenery.
JOHN SELWAY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Edinburgh Top Sights
1 Royal Yacht Britannia
Royal family’s floating palace.
IAIN MASTERTON/ALAMY ©
Edinburgh Top Sights
1 Rosslyn Chapel
Medieval mystery carved in stone.
LOU ARMOR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Eating
Eating out in Edinburgh has changed beyond all recognition since the 1990s. Back then, sophisticated dining meant a visit to the Aberdeen Angus Steak House for a prawn cocktail, steak (well done) and chips, and Black Forest gateau. Today, Edinburgh has more restaurants per head of population than any other UK city, including a handful of places with Michelin stars.
KAWIN TOWE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Modern Scottish Cuisine
Scotland has never been celebrated for its national cuisine – in fact, from haggis and porridge to deep-fried Mars bars, it has more often been an object of ridicule. But since the early 2000s chefs have been taking top-quality Scottish produce – from Highland venison, Aberdeen Angus beef and freshly landed seafood to root vegetables, raspberries and Ayrshire cheeses – and preparing it simply, in a way that emphasises the natural flavours.
Haggis – Scotland’s National Dish
The raw ingredients of Scotland’s national dish don’t sound too promising – the finely chopped lungs, heart and liver of a sheep, mixed with oatmeal and onion and stuffed into a sheep’s stomach bag. However, it tastes surprisingly good and is on the menu in many restaurants, whether served with the traditional accompaniment of mashed potatoes and turnip, or given a modern twist such as haggis in filo pastry parcels.
Best Modern Scottish
Timberyard Seasonally changing menu sourced from artisan growers and foragers.
Aizle A set menu of the finest and freshest of local produce.
Castle Terrace Faultless cuisine from chef-patron Dominic Jack, protégé of TV’s Tom Kitchin.
Wedgwood Foraged salad leaves add originality to informal fine dining.
Best Traditional Scottish
Tower Specialities include Scottish oysters and Aberdeen Angus steaks, and there’s a great view of the castle.
Amber Set in the Scotch Whisky Experience, many dishes include whisky in the recipe.
McKirdy’s Steakhouse Prime Scottish beef, simply prepared and served in a friendly, informal setting.
Witchery by the Castle Wonderfully over-the-top Gothic decor, great steak and seafood, and fine wines.
Best Seafood
Ondine Beautiful dining room, with menu based on sustainably sourced fish.
Fishers Bistro A local institution, with North Berwick lobster a speciality.
Shore Pleasantly informal restaurant with Leith waterfront setting; serves game as well as seafood.
Best Vegetarian
David Bann Smart and sophisticated, bringing an inventive approach to vegetarian food.
Kalpna Long-established Indian restaurant, famous for its all-youcan-eat lunch buffet.
Henderson’s The grandmother of Edinburgh’s vegetarian scene, around since 1962.
Top Tips
A Book well in advance (at least a month ahead for August) to be sure of a table at Edinburgh’s top restaurants
A The Edinburgh & Glasgow Eating & Drinking Guide (http://food.list.co.uk), published annually by The List magazine, contains reviews of several hundred restaurants, cafes and bars
A The www.5pm.co.uk website lists last-minute offers from restaurants with tables to spare that evening
Drinking
Edinburgh has always been a drinker’s city. It has more than 700 pubs – more per square mile than any other UK city – and they are as varied and full of character as the people who drink in them, from Victorian palaces to stylish pre-club bars, and from real-ale howffs (meeting places, often pubs) to cool cocktail lounges.
LOU ARMOR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Edinburgh Beers
By the end of the 19th century, Edinburgh ranked alongside Munich, Pilsen and Burton-on-Trent in importance as a brewing centre, with no fewer than 35 breweries. Today the city’s two large-scale breweries – Caledonian (now owned by Heineken), creator of Deuchars IPA (available in most of the city’s real-ale pubs); and Stewart Brewing, producer of Edinburgh Gold – have been joined by an ever-growing number of microbreweries and brewpubs.
Trad vs Trendy
At one end of Edinburgh’s broad spectrum of hostelries lies the traditional 19th-century pub, which has preserved much of its original Victorian decoration and generally serves real ales and a range of malt whiskies. At the other end is the modern cocktail bar, with a cool clientele and sharp styling.
Opening Times
Pubs generally open from 11am to 11pm Monday to Saturday and 12.30pm to 11pm on Sunday. Many open later on Friday and Saturday, closing at midnight or 1am, while some with a music licence party on until 3am.
Best Historic Pubs
Bennet’s Bar Locals pub with lovely Victorian fittings.
Café Royal Circle Bar City-centre haven of Victorian splendour, famed for Doulton ceramic portraits.
Sheep Heid Inn Semi-rural retreat in the shadow of Arthur’s Seat, famed as Edinburgh’s oldest pub.
Guildford Arms A time capsule of polished mahogany and gleaming brass.
Best Real-Ale Pubs
Holyrood 9A Modern take on a trad pub, with no fewer than 20 beers on tap.
Blue Blazer Resolutely old-fashioned pub with good range of Scottish ales.
Auld Hoose Great jukebox plus broad range of beers from Scottish microbreweries.
Best Cocktail Bars
Bramble Possibly the city’s best cocktails, served in an atmospheric cellar bar.
Tigerlily Cocktails as colourful as the swirling, glittering designer decor.
Lucky Liquor Co Tiny but highly rated bar serving inventive and unusual cocktails.
Best Whisky Bars
Bow Bar Busy Grassmarket-area pub with huge selection of malt whiskies.
Malt Shovel Old-school pub with more than 100 single malts behind the bar.
Last Word Saloon Small but well-chosen selection; good place to dip a toe in the world of whisky.
Top Tips
A The Gig Guide (www gigguide co uk) is a free monthly email newsletter and listings website covering live music in Edinburgh pubs.
A If you want to avoid crowds on Friday and Saturday nights, steer clear of the Grassmarket, the Cowgate and Lothian Rd
Shopping
Edinburgh’s shopping experience extends far beyond the big-name department stores of Princes St, ranging from designer fashion and handmade jewellery to independent bookshops, delicatessens and farmers markets. Classic north-of-the-border buys include cashmere, Harris tweed, tartan goods, Celtic jewellery, smoked salmon and Scotch whisky.
JAROSLAV MORAVCIK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Princes Street
Princes St is Edinburgh’s trademark shopping strip, lined with big high-street names including Marks & Spencer, Debenhams and the Apple Store. There are more designer boutiques a block north on George St, and many smaller specialist stores on Rose St and Thistle St. There are also two big city-centre shopping malls – Princes Mall, at the eastern end of Princes St, and the new Edinburgh St James (scheduled to open in 2020), at the top of Leith St – plus Multrees Walk, a designer shopping complex with flagship Harvey Nichols store on the eastern side of St Andrew Sq.
Shopping Districts
Other central shopping streets include South Bridge, Nicolson St and Lothian Rd. For more offbeat shopping – including fashion, music, crafts, gifts and jewellery – head for Cockburn, Victoria and St Mary’s Sts, all leading off the Royal Mile; William St in the West End; and Raeburn Pl and St Stephen’s St in Stockbridge. Ocean Terminal, in Leith, is the city’s biggest mall.
Best Department Stores
Jenners An Edinburgh shopping institution, stocking a wide range of quality goods, both classic and contemporary.
Harvey Nichols Four floors of designer labels and eye-popping price tags.
John Lewis Classic British store with a focus on quality goods and service.
Best for Tartan
Kinloch Anderson Tailors and kiltmakers to HM the Queen and HRH the Duke of Edinburgh; ʼnuff said.
Geoffrey (Tailor) Inc Kilts in all patterns, from clan tartans to football colours.
21st Century Kilts Fashion kilts in modern fabrics, from camouflage to leather.
Best Markets
Edinburgh Farmers Market Saturday feast of fresh Scottish produce, from smoked venison to organic free-range eggs.
Stockbridge Market Eclectic Sunday market that has become a focus for the local community.
The Pitt Weekly street-food market.
Best for Jewellery
Galerie Mirages Best known for its silver, amber and gemstone jewellery.
Alchemia Original designs as well as specially commissioned pieces.
Annie Smith Edinburgh designer famed for beautiful and delicate pieces reflecting nature’s patterns.
Best for Books
Lighthouse Long-established radical bookshop specialising in political, gay and feminist literature.
McNaughtan’s Bookshop Secondhand and antiquarian dealer with books on Scottish history, art and architecture.
Top Tips
A In shops displaying a ‘Tax Free’ sign, visitors from non-EU countries can claim back the 20% VAT (value-added tax) they have paid on purchased goods.
A Many city-centre shops stay open till 7pm or 8pm on Thursday
