Vitis • Issue 13 • Spring/Summer 2024

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A GUIDE TO WINE BARS SOBER REFLECTIONS

B.C.’S PERFECT STORM PINOT GRIS OR GRIGIO?

DJ KEARNEY’S INSIGHTS AN AUSSIE LOVE AFFAIR VIRTUOUS CONSUMPTION DEMYSTIFYING BRIX

B.C. WINERY LISTINGS

Issue
FREE SPRING/SUMMER 2024
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WINE CULTURE
Available June 21st at the winery, ne restaurants, & retail stores in BC This project is supported by the BC Government’s Buy BC Partnership Program; delivered by MNP LLP with funding from the Government of British Columbia.

06 – SIPS & NIBBLES

News and trends from wine country.

12 – PIPETTE

Dipping into the wide world of wine. by DJ Kearney

14 – IN THE VINEYARD

Pinot Gris vs. Grigio: Style and substance from Alsace to B.C. by Christine Campbell

18 – THE NEXT ACT FOR B.C. WINE

How will the industry bounce back from another tough year? by Tim Pawsey

PUBLISHER: Gail Nugent • gnugent@glaciermedia.ca

EDITOR: Joanne Sasvari • jsasvari@glaciermedia.ca

DESIGN & PRODUCTION MANAGER: Tara Rafiq • trafiq@glaciermedia.ca

21 – WEATHERING A PERFECT STORM It’s not just about the bad weather. by Joanne Sasvari

22 – WHAT SOMMS SAY

The modern way to love wine? Virtuously. by Kate Dingwall

26 – WORLD OF WINE

Our complicated love affair with Australian wines. by Rhys Pender MW

30 – FOOD FOR THOUGHT

A guide to wine bars in Vancouver and Victoria. by Joanne Sasvari

33 – LISTINGS

Your guide to B.C.’s wineries.

42 – WINE GEEK

Brix: The clue to sweetness (and more) in wine. by Christine Campbell

COVER IMAGE: Wines of British Columbia

SOCIAL MEDIA EDITOR: Stephanie Leblanc Vitis.ca

@VitisMag • @VitisMag

PUBLISHED BY:

Glacier Media Group

303 W. 5th Ave., Vancouver, BC V5Y 1J6 778-240-4010

© Vitis 2024

This issue is complimentary.

Contents 22 30
Vancouver's Bar Susu is among the new generation of wine bars. Sarah Anand photo courtesy of Bar Susu Regenerative farming at Emidio Pepe in Abruzzo. Photo courtesy of Emidio Pepe
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Contributors

JOANNE SASVARI is editor of Vitis, The Alchemist and YAM magazines. She is a WSET-certified writer who covers food and drink for publications including Food & Wine and Shondaland, and is the author of Island Eats and Okanagan Eats cookbooks.

CHRISTINE CAMPBELL is a Vancouverbased freelance and travel writer, educator and host of the Wine Soundtrack Canada podcast. She is WSET certified and is a French Wine Scholar. Follow Christine’s adventures in wine and abroad at girlsgogrape.com.

KATE DINGWALL is a WSET-trained wine professional and a writer, editor and photographer covering spirits, food, culture and travel for publications such as Food & Wine and Serious Eats

DJ KEARNEY is a Vancouver-based wine educator, consultant, speaker, judge and global wine expert. Creator of the New District Wine Club, she is also Terminal City Club’s director of wine and vice-president of CAPS-BC, responsible for the Best Sommelier of BC competition.

TIM PAWSEY writes and shoots at hiredbelly.com as well as for publications including Quench, TASTE and Montecristo. He’s a frequent wine judge and is a founding member of the B.C. Hospitality Foundation.

RHYS PENDER is a Master of Wine who combines his time writing, judging, teaching, consulting and dirtying his boots at his four-acre vineyard and winery, Little Farm Winery, in the Similkameen Valley.

HOPEFUL SIGNS IN A SEASON OF CRISIS

Welcome to the Spring/Summer 2024 issue of Vitis, the magazine of British Columbia’s wine culture.

It’s no secret that wine country is in a bit of a crisis right now. For the second year in a row, a brutal winter freeze has devastated vineyards and, as Vitis was going to press, everyone was anxiously awaiting bud break to see just how deep the damage really is. But the crisis is not just about the weather or the impact of a changing climate. It is a deeper, more existential one about the industry’s future.

In this issue, we look at all the factors creating this perfect storm, from cost-shy customers to a rising neo-temperance movement. Meanwhile, Tim Pawsey checks in with local vintners about their next moves and DJ Kearney looks at geotextiles, an innovation that might just be a game changer in both cool and hot climates.

While it’s easy to be distracted by the bad news, there are plenty of good things happening, too.

For one thing, there’s still plenty of B.C. wine available and this is a great time to stock up on your favourite labels. For another, wine bars are back in a big way, thoughtfully serving up fresh, fun, natty sips and delightful bites to enjoy along with them. We round up our favourites in Vancouver and Victoria, so you can start planning your taste adventure now. You’re welcome.

Also in this issue: Kate Dingwall checks in with somms across the country about the new “virtuous consumption,” our growing taste for wines produced ethically, sustainably and regeneratively. Rhys Pender MW explains our relationship with Australian wines (it’s complicated). Christine Campbell decodes the difference between Pinot Gris and Grigio. And we have loads of news, listings and more.

We have every confidence that B.C.’s wine industry will weather the current crisis and come out stronger and better than ever. In the meantime, we’re enjoying the new releases and planning our visits to the wineries as they reopen for the summer season. We hope you’ll join us on the journey.

The good news is that there is still plenty of B.C. wine to buy, and this is a good time to stock up your cellar. Wines of British Columbia photo
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GOLDHILLWINERY.COM 877 ROAD 8, OLIVER, BRITISH COLUMBIA V0H 1T0
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to quality wines and
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The breathtaking views, reminiscent of rolling Tuscan vineyards, encompass the historic Golden Mile Bench estate property where Hester Creek has gained recognition
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gracious

Sips & Nibbles

THE NEW TEMPERANCE MOVEMENT

If you’ve been wondering how our attitude toward beverage alcohol went from moderation to abstinence in the time it takes to crack open a Stelvin closure, well, you’re not alone.

Over at WineBusiness Monthly, writer Felicity Carter was wondering the same thing. And so began her deep dive into a story titled “How Neo-Prohibitionists Came to Shape Alcohol Policy.” It’s a fascinating and somewhat alarming read.

As you likely recall. in January 2023 the World Health Organization announced that there was “no safe level” of alcohol consumption; seven months later, the Canadian Centre for Substance Use and Abuse updated its alcohol guidelines to allow only a maximum of two drinks per week (down from 15 for men and 10 for women). At risk, they said, was the increased likelihood of cancer. Not mentioned anywhere: the benefits of moderate consumption, especially with regard to heart disease, which have been well documented and underpinned health policy for decades.

So why the sudden turnaround?

In Carter’s deeply researched piece, she notes that the change really started in 2015 when the WHO was frustrated by the European Union’s inability to come up with a cohesive policy on alcohol abuse. Three years later, the WHO launched its SAFER series of policy suggestions to reduce alcohol-related harms.

SAFER, it turns out, was created “in collaboration with international partners” that included groups like the Independent Order of Good Templars, a temperance organization founded in 1851 in upstate New York. Now rebranded Movendi International, it is based in Stockholm and calls itself “the largest independent global movement for development through alcohol prevention.”

In other words, it wants to defeat alcohol, and it’s only one such temperance group leading the charge. Worse, according to Carter, the “no safe level” message is just going to get louder and wider spread, so enjoy your Chablis and Cabernet while you can.

Read the full story at winebusinesscom.

SIPS & NIBBLES
iStock / Getty Images Plus / NDStock photo
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SOFTLY, SOFTLY

The demand for low- and no-alcohol beverages just continues to grow. But while there are plenty of good n/a beers and sprits these days, it’s been a lot tougher to create a good de-alcoholized wine.

Now Soft Crush, a spinoff from Calgary’s Crush Imports, has managed to round up some surprisingly palatable n/a vinos from around the world. All are made with vitis vinifera grapes, follow classic wine-making techniques and come from respected wine regions.

In a wide-ranging tasting of the products, the Ein Zwei Zero range from Germany’s Leitz Wines was consistently the cleanest and best-balanced, especially the higher-acid whites. (The sparkling Riesling was a particular hit.)

The Lautus de-alcoholized wines from South Africa were also fresh and delicious. And the piquettes from Nova Scotia’s Benjamin Bridge were terrific thirst quenchers.

Overall, blends were more successful than single varieties—the fruit might remain in a de-alcoholized Chardonnay or Cabernet, but the texture and complex secondary characteristics tend to disappear along with the alcohol, especially in the red wines.

In all cases, bubbles made up for a lot, so if in doubt, opt for the fizz, which seems like a good motto for life in general. softcrush.ca

VIWF HONOURS VITIS ’S OWN TIM PAWSEY

Here at Vitis, we don’t much like to pat ourselves on the back, but we’ll make an exception when it comes to contributing writer Tim Pawsey, who received the prestigious Spirited Industry Professional Award earlier this spring at the Vancouver International Wine Festival.

Gracious, supportive, compassionate and a consummate professional were just a few of the accolades used to describe Tim, who is also known as The Hired Belly. Add to that: “A great travel companion”; “Cares about telling a good story”; and “We’re pretty lucky to have him in the business.”

We couldn’t agree more. SIP is perhaps the greatest honour doled out in Vancouver’s vibrant hospitality

community, and Tim is among that community’s greatest supporters and promoters.

Several other awards were also announced at VIWF’s annual Celebrating Excellence lunch:

• Ian Casterton, Key Account Manager, Andrew Peller Limited, was named 2024 Sommelier of the Year after a rigorous competition organized by the BC Chapter of the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers, held January 30.

• The 2024 Terry Threlfall Scholarship was awarded to Dawn Schultz, front-of-house manager, educator and consultant at Designer Grapes Consulting.

• The 2024 Wine Program Excellence Award Winners included seven platinum awards this year, among them Vancouver Island’s first ever, for The Courtney Room.

For the full list of winners visit: vanwinefest.ca/ tradedays/event/20th-annual-awards-lunch.

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WINE-SOAKED READS FOR ARMCHAIR TRAVELLERS

For those times you can’t hop a plane to explore the vineyards of France, Italy or Kelowna, these new books are the next best thing.

A Year in the Vineyard by Sophie Menin and Bob Chaplin

This gorgeous coffeetable book is a tribute to the cycle of the vine, following the seasonal rhythms from winter pruning to bud break to harvest and beyond. But it’s not just pretty pictures. If you have any remaining doubts that wine growers are on the front line of the climate crisis, these award-winning authors will set you straight.

Oz Clarke’s Story of Wine: 8000 Years, 100 Bottles by Oz Clarke

Take a journey into the past as the renowned British wine expert explores the places, people and bottles that have shaped the fascinating history of wine. The adventure starts in ancient Georgia and meanders through Persia,

Egypt, Greece and Rome, right up to today’s worldwide industry. Vivid, informative, essential reading.

GLASSWARE FOR GARDEN PARTIES

Now that the warm weather is here, we plan to spend every moment we can outside. But our fancy stemmed glassware isn’t coming with us. Instead, we plan to sip our summer whites from tough-but-stylish glassware with a back-tonature vibe.

We especially love the Schott Zwiesel Tour stemless outdoor wine glasses (pictured at right). They are made from break-, chip- and scratch-resistant Tritan glass and tinted in earthy shades of ochre, gold, grey and green. About $70 for a set of four from Crate + Barrel. crateandbarrel.ca

Italy in a Wineglass: The Story of Italy Through Its Wines by Marc Millon

A leading travel writer takes you on it a tour of the country’s story in wine, present and past, with a generous helping of culture, art, food, fashion, beautiful landscapes and famous cities to pair with it.

The Sipster's Pocket Guide to 50 Must-Try BC Wines: Volume 3 by Luke Whittall

This handy guide is your entrée to the wines of B.C. Everything here is under $50 (and most under $30), plus there’s loads of info about pairings, grape misconceptions and all you need to know before you head out tasting or shopping.

Want to set your table on a budget? IKEA’s Kallsinnig wine glass comes in a pretty green plastic that looks just like glass—and is only $2.49 a stem. There’s a matching tumbler as well. ikea.com/ca

Want to keep your Chardonnay chill on even the hottest day? YETI’s Rambler wine tumbler with Magslider lid is your go to. It’s practically indestructable and will keep wine cold for hours and hours, perfect for picnics, camping, boating or your backyard. It comes in great colours—we love the limited edition Camp Green—and retails for about $35. yeti.ca

SIPS AND NIBBLES 8 ISSUE 13

EVENT CALENDAR

Clear your schedule for these essential experiences

HALF CORKED MARATHON WEEKEND

May 24 to 26

The most fun you can have sweating under the sun. This year’s theme is the 1990s, so don your bucket hat, baby tee and combats for the traditional 24-kilometre trail through the vineyards, with stops for sips along the way. Even if you don’t take part in the run, you can still enjoy the Primavera party to kick off the weekend or the party at the finish line. oliverosoyoos.com/half-corked-marathon.

KAMLOOPS WINE + BEVERAGE FESTIVAL

May 30 to June 1

Swing by the Loops on May 30 for Cheese the Day, an interactive wine-and-cheese pairing event featuring Canadian cheese ambassador David Beaudoin, as well as the grand wine (and other beverage) tasting on June 1. kamloopswinefestival.ca

OKANAGAN SPRING WINE FESTIVAL

June 7 to 23

BEST OF THE BENCH DINNER & TASTING

June 6

Hosted by the Naramata Bench Wineries Association and Master of Wines Siobhan Turner and Doug Frost, this is your chance to enjoy sips from more than 25 wineries along the bench, canapés by Poplar Grove Winery’s executive chef Stacy Johnston and the chance to mingle with winemakers and winery owners while taking in that spectacular view. naramatabench.com terroirsymposium.com

This wide-ranging annual fest kicks off June 7 with the BC Top 50 Grand Tasting at the Penticton Trade and Convention Centre, where guests sample the top wines chosen by the judging panel of the British Columbia Wine Awards. Also look for the TASTE series of experiences from Lake Country to the District Wine Village in Oliver, as well as a Father’s Day Blues and BBQ at Nighthawk Vineyards, Solstice Sips at Silverstar and other events. thewinefestivals.com

7 DEADLY SINS

June 22

The most wickedly fun event in the valley is back with all the revelry, entertainment and unparalleled indulgence you’ve been craving, all set against the stunning backdrop of Blasted Church’s picturesque vineyards. Also add to your calendar: Take Me to Church, “a night of angelic and sinful songs,” on August 10. blastedchurch.com

PRIDE IN THE VINES

June 15

Get fabulous with the 2SLGBTQAI+ community at See Ya Later Ranch and enjoy great food, great wine, great people and beautiful views. greatestatesokanagan.com

SUMMER CONCERT SERIES AT MISSION HILL FAMILY ESTATE

Various dates Settle into the natural amphitheatre as the sun sinks over Okanagan Lake and enjoy a rock-star lineup that features Barenaked Ladies on July 4; Melissa Etheridge and Jewel on July 15; and Sarah McLachlan on July 29. missionhillwinery.com

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A hopeful year at Gray Monk

THIS SUMMER SEES AN EXCITING NEW CULINARY PROGRAM ALONGSIDE THE WINERY’S CLASSIC AROMATIC WHITES

In 1976, the country’s first Pinot Gris vines were planted at Gray Monk Estate Winery in Lake Country. Since then, the Okanagan Valley’s oldest family-owned and -operated estate winery has seen its ups and downs, highs and lows, more of them than one might prefer just in the last few years.

Yet the Gray Monk team is facing the 2024 season with optimism and plenty of exciting new things to savour.

“This year is a bit challenging because of the weather we’ve had, although we’re probably better off than a lot of places because of our location and our size,” says the winery’s executive chef Graham Momer. Adds winemaker

Jen Oishi: “Vintage 2023 is a small crop, but overall it was really good quality.”

Since Gray Monk was founded half a century ago by wine country pioneers George and Trudi Heiss, it has been best-known for its aromatic whites, especially its namesake Pinot Gris (known as “Grauar Mönch”—grey monk—in Austria). Andrew Peller Ltd., which has owned Gray Monk since 2017, is dedicated to continuing the winery’s traditions.

As Oishi, who has worked here since 2011 and been winemaker since 2019, says: “I’m trying to respect George and Trudi’s legacy, but modernize it as well.”

SPONSORED
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The patio at Gray Monk's Lookout Restaurant is said to have the best views in the Okanagan Valley.
Vintage 2023 is a small crop, but overall it was really good quality.

She’s excited for the just-released 2023 vintage, which includes a Pinot Blanc rich with melon, tropical and orchard fruit along with good acidity and texture and a Pinot Gris that lives up to its famous reputation, “juicy with stone fruit and ripe apple.” Alongside is a small quantity of estate-grown Kerner, Ehrenfelser and Siegerrebe, hard-to-find aromatic varieties that tempt with their pretty floral notes.

Meanwhile, chef Momer is planning an exciting new menu for The Lookout restaurant’s spring reopening on May 9.

Where last year he focused on wine-paired, multicourse set menus, this year he’s taking a more casual approach, noting, “Customers want to choose their own adventure.” He is offering about a dozen “simple but awesome” share plates of “locally sourced, internationally influenced” fare, mostly Italian, but with some Asian and Middle Eastern flavours too.

He thinks guests will love the arancini — “my goal is to make them the cheesiest arancini anyone has ever

eaten”—and his modern take on a prawn cocktail, served with wasabi mayo and honey-and-lime “caviar.” There’s also an irresistible buttermilk fried chicken sandwich with truffle mayo, organic chicken with house-made hemp gnocchi and, for dessert, a show-stopper sticky chocolate pudding he calls “a hot fudge sundae but with cake.”

Momer is keenly aware that many guests are price-sensitive right now and says, “If you want to have a crispy chicken sandwich and a glass of wine, you can do it for under $40. And that’s my favourite thing to eat, too.”

Of course, wine pairings are always available, along with an elevated wine-tasting experience that pairs wines with small gourmet bites.

Plus events are back on the calendar, starting with “a rosé soirée” for the solstice in June, featuring a threecourse menu paired with the winery’s rosés.

“There will be a whimsical menu and ambience, lots of pink and flowers,” Momer says. “And I’m sure we’ll do more events as the season goes on.”

We can hardly wait.

Gray Monk Estate Winery For more information, visit graymonk.com

Chef Graham Momer's new menu features sharable, crowd-pleasing dishes that pair perfectly with Gray Monk wines. In Lake Country, it's all about fresh, cool-climate wines like Gray Monk's famous Pinot Gris and other aromatic white varieties.
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Material goods

INNOVATIONS AND DISCOVERIES FROM THE WORLD OF WINE

DRESSED TO (PREVENT) KILL

As we veer closer and closer to climate apocalypse, winegrowers around the world are turning to innovative technologies. Too much sun, heat and excessive cold temperatures for vines can be mitigated by specially engineered fabrics called geotextiles. Not at all like the burlap you might drape over your roses or shrubs, these are highly engineered cloths that fit snugly over vitis vinifera vines as they try to survive the elements.

Here’s the skinny.

• Geotextiles are mostly made from synthetic polymers like polyester, polypropylene or polyethylene and can be woven, knitted or non-woven (your workout gear is likely polypropylene).

• They are breathable, water impermeable and can either admit or deflect light.

• Using a geotextile reduces exposure to intense cold and wind in addition to minimizing sudden changes in temperature, increasing the survival rate of primary buds; it can be –25°C outside, and just –15°C under the thermal “blankets.”

• In vineyard areas with winter snow, geotextiles hit peak performance, maximizing the insulating capacity of snow that accumulates atop the fabric.

• In Quebec about 40 per cent of vineyards are covered with geotextiles in winter.

• The textiles are not opaque and allow solar radiation to promote vine growth, but but if growers prefer to delay bud break, they can deploy cloth with greater opacity.

• Not just for winter, woven or knitted shade cloth is used in hot and humid wine regions to limit UV exposure and sunburn, minimize dehydration, conserve water and prevent certain vine diseases that thrive in warm, humid conditions.

• Shaded grapes will have a slightly lower pH and higher acidity than unshaded grapes picked at the same time.

PIPETTE
Shade cloth for sun/heat mitigation at Daou Winery in Paso Robles. Supplied photo
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LEFT: Applying geotextiles in Quebec with a tractor. RIGHT: Vines covered in geotextiles to protect them from winter's cold. Photos courtesy of Texcel

• A Paso Robles study showed black shade cloth showed lower canopy temperatures than white cloth, even at the same 40-per-cent light reduction for both colours.

• Geotextiles can be applied by hand or with a tractor, but correct, airtight installation is critical—and it can be expensive. In B.C., this can cost up to $5,000 an acre for the cloth, plus $5,000 more for the labour to install, remove and store it. In contrast, covering/uncovering vines with earth is about $1,800 per acre all in.

• Before geotextiles are applied, the vines must be pruned first, the timing of which has implications for bud break. Fall pruning is not always possible or preferred in many marginal wine regions, so earthing over would be a better strategy.

• Also keep in mind: The textiles need plenty of summertime storage with foolproof rodent protection.

BOOST YOUR MEXICAN WINE IQ

Mexico has a long and illustrious vinous history that goes back five centuries. One of the first acts of Hernan Cortes in 1521 was to order the planting of vines. Today, viticulture is widely established, with vines growing in a variety of habitats, from coastal regions to almost 2,300 metres above sea level. Limey, clay loams with good water holding capacity are in abundance and essential to vine survival.

• Vitis vinifera variety Listán Prieto was planted in Mexico in the early 1500s. (It became known as the Mission grape in California.)

• The oldest winery is Casa Madero in northern Mexico’s Valle de Parras, continually making wine since 1597.

• Experiencing a substantial recent growth spurt, there are now 21,259 acres of wine grape vineyards in Mexico, about 7,500 more than in B.C.

• There are three main wine-growing zones, but no geographical indications system as yet: North (Baja and Sonora); La Laguna in Coahuila and Durango; and the Centre (Zacatecas, Aguascalientes, Queretaro). Seventy per cent of all grapes are grown in Baja, which has more than 11,000 acres of vines.

• There are more than 400 licensed wineries in Mexico, more than 260 of them in Baja.

• An exciting array of more than 50 grapes are planted. Reds include Cabernet Sauvignon (20 per cent) then Merlot, Syrah, Nebbiolo, Tempranillo, Zinfandel, Cabernet Franc and Grenache. White wine grapes include Chardonnay (eight per cent), Chenin Blanc, Chasselas and Sauvignon Blanc.

• Another 100 more varieties are being planted experimentally.

• Wine production was at around 40 million litres in 2022.

• Mexican wine consumption is at 1.3 litres per person per annum (up significantly from 225 millilitres 20 years ago), and growing quickly, with 34 per cent of all wine consumed in Mexico domestic. Beer consumption, meanwhile, is 70 litres per person per year!

Although Mexico is not well known for wine; it has a 500-year-long tradition of viticulture. Pictured here: the famous vineyards in the Ensenada and Valle de Guadalupe region of northwestern Mexico's Baja. iStock / Getty Images Plus / Photo Beto photo
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Gris vs. Grigio

WHAT’S IN A NAME? STYLE AND SO MUCH MORE

In the world of wine, few grape varieties have captured the hearts and palates of enthusiasts quite like Pinot Grigio/ Pinot Gris. Its widespread popularity transcends borders, making it a beloved choice for wine lovers around the globe.

Pinot Grigio and Pinot Gris are the same grape variety, yet its different names express a specific stylistic variation. When ready for harvest, the grape skins take on a grey/purple hue, the origin of the variety’s name. “Grigio” means “grey” in Italian, as does “gris” in French, and each nation has its own style. From the Dolomites to the Adriatic Sea in Italy to the mist-shrouded vineyards of Alsace, the fertile valleys of British Columbia and the cool slopes of Germany, let’s delve into the nuanced expressions of this versatile grape.

ITALIAN PINOT GRIGIO: CRISP, REFRESHING, STRAIGHTFORWARD

Italy is responsible for 44 per cent of all Pinot Grigio grown worldwide. The Pinot Grigio delle Venezie DOC appellation, covering the entire northeastern section of the country, contributes 85 per cent of Italy’s total crop, making it the most important region for Pinot Grigio worldwide. Veneto, Friuli-Venezia Giulia and Trentino are the three main growing areas within this appellation, with over 27,000 hectares planted.

Pinot Grigio made here is a champion of simplicity and elegance. This style is celebrated for its refreshingly crisp profile. Benefitting from ample sunlight and cooling breezes from the Adriatic Sea, the vineyards of the delle Venezie

IN THE VINEYARD
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Pinot Gris is the most widely planted white variety in B.C.; these ripening grapes in the Okanagan have taken on their traditional purple-grey-ish hue. iStock/Getty Images Plus / laughingmango photo

DOC yield wines of vibrant acidity and nuanced fruit character.

Pinot Grigio exhibits a pale straw hue and a palate marked by notes of green apple, citrus, almond and subtle minerality. Its refreshing finish makes it an ideal accompaniment to leisurely outdoor entertaining and aperitivo gatherings. Cin cin!

FRENCH PINOT GRIS: RICH, TEXTURED, REFINED

In the storied vineyards of Alsace, France, Pinot Gris unveils a more opulent and textured interpretation, showcasing the region’s cool climate and postcard terroirs.

“ Pinot Grigio made here is a champion of simplicity and elegance.

With its golden colour and enticing aromatics of ripe pear, honey and spice, Alsatian Pinot Gris captivates the senses with its luxurious mouthfeel and lingering finish.

Pinot Gris is one of Alsace’s four noble grape varieties. The Vosges mountain range contributes a rain-shadow effect on Alsatian vineyards, allowing for long growing seasons, dry autumns and the lowest average annual precipitation of all wine regions in France. In Alsace, over 2,000 hectares of vineyard land are planted with Pinot Gris, 15 per cent of the region’s total vineyard land.

Pinot Gris’s versatility allows it to harmonize effortlessly with many dishes, from traditional Alsatian fare to globally inspired cuisine,.

B.C. PINOT GRIS: VIBRANT, FRUIT-FORWARD, EXPRESSIVE

Pinot Gris is British Columbia’s most widely grown white grape variety, with 529 hectares planted. The B.C. wine industry produces Pinot Gris wines that reflect the region’s dynamic landscape and diverse terroir. With bright acidity and expressive fruit character, B.C. Pinot Gris offers notes of crisp apple, citrus and tropical fruits, delivering vibrant flavours. Most producers use the name “Pinot Gris” for their wines, although a few call it Pinot Grigio in homage to the Italian style and taste profile.

One unique feature of B.C.’s wine regions is the abrupt end to the growing season. “It is almost like someone pulled the plug out of the TV—it is so drastic,” says Mark Sheridan, president of Hester Creek Estate Winery. Summer in the Okanagan Valley is warm and can get exceptionally hot; however, the mean temperature is 12.5°C annually. Vineyard elevation, slope and the moderating effects of lakes (and, on Vancouver Island, the ocean) are all vital for growing delicious Pinot Gris.

B.C. Pinot Gris with locally caught seafood is a classic wine and food pairing option.

In Italy the grape is known as Pinot Grigio and in regions like Friuli-Venezia Giulia (pictured here) tends to produce crisp, refreshing wines. iStock / Getty Images Plus / Wirestock photo Alsace, France, is famed for its lush, honeyed Pinot Gris. iStock / Getty Images Plus / Sanny11 photo
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Its delicate balance of ripe fruit, floral aromatics and subtle spice reflects the country's cool climate and rich winemaking heritage.

GERMAN PINOT GRIS (GRAUBURGUNDER): ELEGANT, INTERESTING, COMPLEX

In Germany, Pinot Gris, known as Grauburgunder, is a wine of elegance, refinement and nuanced complexity. Its delicate balance of ripe fruit, floral aromatics and subtle spice reflects the country's cool climate and rich winemaking heritage.

Grauburgunder makes up five per cent of vineyard land in Germany, with over 5,000 hectares planted. Whether sourced from the Mosel, Rheingau or Baden regions, German Pinot Gris exemplifies the meticulous craftsmanship that defines the nation’s winemaking tradition.

Roasted pork with dumplings and cabbage is a traditional food pairing with Grauburgunder.

EMBRACING DIVERSITY IN EVERY GLASS

Despite their shared genetic lineage, Pinot Grigio and Pinot Gris offer a kaleidoscope of flavours and textures when cultivated in different countries and regions. From the straightforward elegance of Italian Pinot Grigio to the refined complexity of Alsatian Pinot Gris, the vibrant expressions of British Columbia, and the sophisticated nuances of German Grauburgunder, each glass tells a story of place and tradition.

THREE TO TRY

IN THE VINEYARD
Kris Pinot Grigio 2021 (Delle Venezie DOC, Italy, $19.99) Flavours of fresh apricots and almonds on the palate. Pfaffenheim Pfaff Pinot Gris 2019 (Alsace, France, $24.99) Ripe cantaloupe melon and honey. Tightrope Winery Pinot Gris 2022 (Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, $25) Lemon zest, fresh pear, a dusting of minerality.
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Along the banks of Germany's Mosel River, vineyards produce elegant, aromatic Pinot Gris. iStock / Getty Images Plus / Meinzahn photo

Centred on wine at Phantom Creek

NEW GM MARK BERINGER LOOKS HOPEFULLY TO THE FUTURE

Mark Beringer has been around the wine industry long enough to feel hopeful even in a bad year, knowing that he can always find a way forward. And so, despite being hit with the same devastating winter freeze as everyone else in the South Okanagan Valley, the newly minted general manager of Phantom Creek Estates is excited for the year ahead.

Then again, he’s got a lot to be excited about.

He’s only been in his new role for a few weeks, but already he has a vision for where he wants to take the winery. “It’s really getting it more centred around the wine because that’s what has to come first,” says Beringer, who is also continuing in his role as director of winemaking, focusing on reds.

“We’re looking at doing a GSM for the future. Syrah does so well here and we thought we would try the Grenache and Mourvèdre and see how it goes. And if the Grenache doesn’t work for red, it would still work for rosé,” he adds, noting that it will help “future-proof” against events like January’s cold snap.

If anyone can make it work, Beringer can. For one thing, Phantom Creek grows its grapes on three of the most famous, historic and sun-soaked vineyards in B:C.: Becker, Phantom Creek and Kobau. For another, Beringer himself comes with epic expertise, renowned for his work at Napa Valley’s iconic Duckhorn and Beringer Vineyards.

Phantom Creek has also invested heavily in its beautiful, art-filled facility, its winemaking technology and equipment, and its people.

Among them is the uber-talented Alessa Valdez, executive chef of The Restaurant at Phantom Creek, which has re-opened for the season, offering a high tea for lunch and, for the first time, a regular dinner service in its airy space overlooking the entire South Okanagan Valley.

Phantom Creek is also opening a tasting room and event space in Richmond, where they plan to hold winemakers’ dinners and connect more easily with wine club members in the Lower Mainland.

Meanwhile, the team is still planning to hold a signature summer event at the property on the Black Sage

Bench—maybe a repeat of the glam Soirée en Rouge from the last couple of years, or maybe something entirely new.

“It will evolve a little, but I know they’re having a lot of meetings and it’s fun to have a theme around it,” says Beringer, who dazzled last year in a red-sequined dinner jacket.

The party is scheduled for July 20, the same day the winery will release its first ultra-premium-tier Halo wine, the Baoshan.

The name means “golden mountain” or “treasure hill” in Cantonese. “It’s very symbolic of wealth and such,” Beringer says, noting that the wine itself will be a 2020 vintage Bordeaux-style red blend, with only two barrels made. “We really did it with complete intent. It really is the best of the best.”

He adds, happily: “Now that I’ve been here for three years, it’s great getting something like this out.”

Phantom Creek Estates

For more information, visit phantomcreekestates.com

SPONSORED
Phantom Creek Estates general manager Mark Beringer.
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Anxiously awaiting

EXTREME HEAT AND EXTREME COLD HAVE TAKEN AN ENORMOUS TOLL. NOW EVERYONE IS WONDERING: WHAT'S NEXT FOR B.C. WINE?

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In January 2024, temperatures in the Okanagan plummeted below –20°C for the second winter in a row, causing damage to many vineyards. iStock / Getty Images Plus / Amy Mitchell photo
Luckily, many wineries still have wine from previous vintages to sell ... hopefully, most will make enough to scrape through until the next crop comes in.

with B.C. wine grape growers still reeling from the impact of winter 2022-’23’s extreme cold, the nearly province-wide freeze of mid-January 2024 could not have come at a worse time. In contrast to the previous year, this year’s event was more frigid, lasted days longer and was far broader in scope geographically. After extensive analysis across the Okanagan and Similkameen, it’s thought to have resulted in much higher losses—not only in bud damage, but also in anticipated vine deaths.

Growers and wineries that dodged the bullet last year have not been so lucky this time around. Even optimistic forecasters are expecting a near-total crop loss that will effectively all but wipe out the 2024 harvest. The impact on the B.C. wine industry as a whole, but especially across the southern interior, is profound and likely to have lasting effects over several years.

SEEKING SOLUTIONS

In the heart of the Similkameen Valley, Little Farm Winery co-owner Rhys Pender MW hopes “most of the vines are alive, can be retrained and have a crop again for 2025.” Little Farm has always held back releases of its Riesling and Chardonnay, which he feels in 2024 will help bridge the gap. “But eventually it will catch up with us,” he says. “Luckily, many wineries still have wine from previous vintages to sell ... hopefully, most will make enough to scrape through until the next crop comes in.”

However, while many grape growers are exploring the possibility of planting more winter-hardy varieties, including hybrids, Pender isn’t convinced any added benefits would be forthcoming, especially given the harshness of the temperatures. Also, he adds: “While there are some hybrids making decent wine, the taste profile isn’t the same as what people are traditionally looking for in their wines.”

Pender is also concerned about the bigger picture. He worries that “for some this will be too much. With sales already soft globally in the wine business, due to rising costs and increasingly health-conscious consumers, some wineries won’t be able to survive two crop losses.”

A number of government funding programs both federal and provincial have been introduced to help wineries and growers through the critical next couple of years. A series of fast-tracked initiatives from the province include more flexibility around sampling and licensing

regulations, funds for vine replacement covered under a $70-million fruit replanting program and the formation of a special industry task force.

When the extent of the damage and the likelihood of a non-existent vintage became more apparent, the search for alternative fruit sources kicked into high gear for wineries that don’t not have enough inventory to fall back on. Several wineries are exploring the bureaucratic and legal gymnastics involved in temporarily bringing in bulk wine from Ontario or, closer to home, Washington or Oregon.

Yet others, who are firmly opposed to the idea, insist that any such move to expand on the International Canadian Blend (ICB) model employed by large commercial wineries could cause lasting harm to B.C. wine’s international reputation — even if it’s in use for just a couple of vintages.

Overall, it’s still too early to gauge truly what the best solutions might be.

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In recent years, if it wasn't the cold damaging Okanagan Valley vines, it was wildfire driving tourists away and introducing the threat of smoke taint. iStock / Getty Images Plus / Tamara Nunes photo
We also need to protect the B.C. brand, built up over three decades. We can’t afford any missteps.

PLANNING AHEAD

“At this stage we don’t know if this is a one-year or a multiyear setback: we will know more in June,” says Haywire Winery owner Christine Coletta. “However, wineries are having to plan for 2024 production and each winery is making plans based on their inventory levels and forecasting. We have to be open for people to plan for their specific business model. But we also need to protect the B.C. brand, built up over three decades. We can’t afford any missteps.”

Coletta says that any system put in place must be supported by more effective audits, checks and balances to make sure that transparency prevails at all costs. “Seventy per cent of vineyard land is owned by wineries, who should be motivated for preserving it for all of us for generations to come. Whatever we do in the recovery phase has to be short-lived. We don’t want to go down this road for the long haul.”

The Haywire owner also wants to remind B.C. wine lovers that there’s no time like the present to support local wineries, many of which do have wine to sell, but likely won’t have so much to offer in the next few years.

In short, she suggests, if you have a favourite wine or wines, then buy some now—by the case—and tuck some of it away for later. "Buy lots," she says. "It may not be there next year."

While there’s no denying the scale of devastation, it’s also important not to overlook the Okanagan’s string of good vintages over the last 25 to 30 years, which have gone with hardly a glitch and barely more than a couple of less-than-ideal years.

All of which leads veteran winemaker and consultant Eric Von Krosigk to suggest that the recent chain of events could result in the “most massive disruption since the ‘great pull-out’” of 1988 when some 2,400 acres of Okanagan vineyards (almost the entirety at the time) were replanted under a government-subsidized switch from hybrid to vitis vinifera varieties.

Von Krosigk reckons, on top of the surge in wildfires and the fallout from COVID-19 taking their toll on tourism, the recent weather events add up to “a perfect storm.” It’s a storm he plans to wait out, wryly noting that for the first time since the early 1980s, come harvest, he won’t be busy.

At Hester Creek's Vineyard 11 on the eastern slopes of Osoyoos Lake, the damage from last winter's cold snap won't be known for a few months. Gail Nugent photo
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WEATHERING A PERFECT STORM

Although all the conversation in wine country right now is about the devastating impact of January’s extreme cold, it’s not the only thing that has affected B.C. wine growers, makers, sellers and drinkers. Here’s what everyone is talking about right now.

First and foremost, there’s the series of weather and other events that have devastated the industry since the COVID-19 pandemic shuttered tasting rooms and restaurants in March 2020.

2021: In June and July, B.C. sweltered under a heat dome that saw temperatures rise to a record 45.7°C in Kelowna, followed by one of the worst fire seasons on record. That November, an atmospheric river wiped out major highways and disrupted supply chains. They have yet to recover.

2022: The coldest spring on record was followed by an extremely hot summer. The vintage was saved by a long, warm fall, but late December saw a massive drop in temperature—as low as –27°C on the Black Sage Bench—that devastated vineyards, especially in the South Okanagan.

2023: Already anticipating drastically reduced yields because of the cold snap, wineries were dealt a second blow in summer when the 2023 wildfire season officially became the most expensive and most destructive on record. Adding to the industry’s woes: When flames tore through parts of West Kelowna in mid-August, the provincial government

ordered tourists to leave. They fled en masse and did not return.

2024: From January 11 to 17, B.C. experienced a brutal cold snap, colder and longer than the one in 2022-’23. Although the true extent of the damage won’t be known for a few months, many are predicting 100-per-cent crop failure, substantial vine loss and the end of Syrah in B.C.

But that’s not all.

While all of this has been happening, sales of wine (and alcohol in general) have been plummeting.

Consumers, reeling from rising prices and high interest rates, are reluctant to spend money on “nice-to-haves” like wine. At the same time, the World Health Organization has declared that no amount of alcohol is safe to consume, and wine is now competing with a rapidly growing zero-proof movement, especially among younger consumers.

Adding an inevitable, if poorly timed, blow is Canada's loss in a number of international trade talks. Excise tariffs have now been slapped on B.C. wine, raising prices even higher, and B.C. can no longer mandate that only local wine be sold in grocery stores.

The good news (and there is some): The industry is looking hard at how it operates and having frank, open discussions about the way forward.

Online forums are discussing everything from crop insurance to what grapes should be planted— and where—in this unreliable environment. There is heartfelt debate on the topic of bringing grapes in from Washington or Ontario so wineries at least have something to sell in their tasting rooms. There are blunt conversations about the value and purpose of Vintner’s Quality Alliance, Geographical Indications and organizations like Wine Growers B.C.

Emotions for sure are running high. People’s livelihoods are at stake and many are facing the loss of what was until recently a wonderful way of life.

But remember: The industry in B.C. is really only 30 years old. Dire as things are right now, these catastrophes are just a heartbeat in time and are at least giving the industry the opportunity to rethink, well, everything.

As Ross Wise MW, the winemaker at Black Hills, wrote recently in the winery’s blog: “The goal is evolution, not revolution.”

In spring 2024, wine growers were anxiously awaiting bud break to learn whether their frostbitten vines would produce any crop at all this year. Wines of British Columbia photo
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Virtuous Consumption

FOR THESE SOMMS, THE FUTURE OF WINE IS ORGANIC, REGENERATIVE AND DELICIOUS

At the award-winning, organic Grgich Hills Estate in Napa Valley, regenerative farming practices include planting cover crops between the vines. Photo courtesy Grgich Hills Estate WHAT SOMMS SAY 22 ISSUE 13

If you walk into a wine bar in any major metropolis, chances are the trendiest pour is something new and naturally inclined: a colourfully labelled bottle with whispers of funk and wondrously virtuous practices. These bottles are born from vineyards dotted with grazing sheep and blooming wildflowers and made by winemakers who wax poetic about biodynamic practices and the benefits of compost.

“I love these wines! You can taste when a wine has been fermented naturally or when biodynamics are at play in the vineyard,” says Renée Sferrazza, the Toronto-based sommelier and owner of Wine by Renée. Her 26,000-plus followers on Instagram agree. “When I start a conversation about sustainable wines on television, writing or social media, I get so many interactions.”

And this new guard of eco-minded wines is infiltrating the country’s drinking destinations. They’re commandeering the menu at Halifax’s Ostrich Club. They remain the raison d’être at Vancouver’s Bar Tartare and Toronto’s Grape Witches. I’ve found glasses of fizzy Frontenac at dive bars and sipped biodynamic white Burgundy at Michelin-starred spaces. The passion for natural, low-intervention wine has hit a fever pitch.

This growing interest in green wines isn’t confined to Canada. Noted wine critic Karen McNeil, the Napa Valley-based author of The Wine Bible, recently announced she would no longer review heavy bottles in an effort to reduce carbon outputs. Meanwhile, Bordeaux allowed new varieties into its fold in an effort to future-proof against climate change.

“I’ve seen interest in sustainable wines rise consistently over the last five years,” says Ali Khan Lalali, owner and sommelier of Toronto’s General Assembly Pizza. He finds that guests are inquiring after sustainable production, farming techniques, recyclable packaging and support for marginalized workers. “And, over the last three years, several wine shops have opened specializing in natural and biodynamic wine—it’s helping to fuel accessibility, awareness and access to the category.”

“ As a sommelier, I feel a sense of responsibility to offer beverages that steer clear of pesticides and other harmful chemicals.

A HEALTHIER SIP

Rebecca Pettigrew, the sommelier at plant-minded progressive restaurant Ten in Toronto, reckons that the increased interest is due to a wider-spread health movement. “As people become increasingly conscious of what they consume—whether it's the food they eat, the cleaning products they use or the makeup they apply to their bodies—it's only natural that they also want to understand more about what they drink.”

Now she exclusively lists wines that are sustainably made, organic or biodynamically certified, or adhere to natural winemaking practices. “As a sommelier, I feel a sense of responsibility to offer beverages that steer clear of pesticides and other harmful chemicals—many wine consumers aren’t even aware of these concerns,” she says. “I try not to get too preachy, but I find that most guests are keen to hear about naturally made wines.”

Others disagree. In Toronto, Geoffry Fleming, the sommelier for Sunnys and MIMI Chinese, thinks that thoughtful practices are a passing fad. “I find people are more concerned with the final product than they are with the social and environmental factors,” he says. “Will the wine pair with the food? Are guests getting great value for their money?”

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Andrew Forsyth, head sommelier at Vancouver's L'Abattoir, notes that consumers are thirsty for sustainable wines, but confused about current terminology and labelling. Photo courtesy of L'Abattoir

The wariness around the category is warranted— responsible winemaking can be a convoluted subject. “There’s a fair bit of confusion surrounding this topic— and understandably so,” says Pettigrew.

There are dozens of different sustainable certifications within the industry, offering approvals on everything from biodynamic vineyards to fish-friendly production methods. Among the most familiar are USDA Organic, Demeter, Napa Green or Regenified. All have their own verification process and sticker.

On top of that, Pettigrew points out that commonly used terms like “sustainable” and “natural” lack any legal definition. “It leads to huge misconceptions and adds so much complexity for consumers,” she says.

“People crave these wines, but I find consumers always ask: ‘Why isn’t there a universal sustainable sticker on the front of a bottle?’ ” says Sferrazza. “There are many things that consumers love about sustainable wines. However, there’s a huge disconnect between what they are asking for and the information the market provides.”

It also leaves the wine industry rife with greenwashing—brands using buzzy terms like “natural” or “sustainable” while distorting the definition to meet their needs.

WINE, REDEFINED

If you are considering drinking greener, here’s what to know. “Organic” labels require a winery to use certified organic grapes and skip synthetic chemicals and sulfites (additives that make a wine shelf-stable, but may have detrimental effects on health).

Bottles labelled “biodynamic” can seem a bit woowoo—producers farm by the astronomical and lunar calendar—but have practical draws: pursuing biodiversity in the vineyards, using natural compost and eliminating nefarious chemicals.

“Regenerative farming” doesn’t just soften the damage done by winemaking, but betters the land by planting cover crops, forgoing herbicides and improving the microbiology of the soil. Regenerative practices also extend to the people: Does the winery pay their employees a fair wage based on their community’s cost of living?

“I find guests are still stuck trying to figure out what sustainability means,” says Andrew Forsyth of L’Abattoir in Vancouver. “Some are confused by ‘natural’ wines and think that the terminology—like natural, orange, organic and biodynamic—is mutually exclusive and indicative of style.”

At the Emidio Pepe winery in Abruzzo, Italy, regenerative farming practices are used to grow the grapes for its highly regarded Montepulciano and Trebbiano wines.
WHAT SOMMS SAY 24 ISSUE 13
Photo ccourtesy of Emidio Pepe
Ultimately, if the wine is good and comes with some extra sustainable benefits to match, it is a solid pick in my books.

And then there’s “natural wine.” Loosely defined, natural wine is more of a philosophy than a strict set of guidelines. Consider it a collective of winemakers looking to express their land in its rawest form by interfering as little as possible. In recent years, natural wine has become synonymous with hip bottlings of orange or chilled red wines, piquette or pétillant naturel.

They’re not for everyone. Many of the new-guard natural wines inspire tasting notes like funky, musty, hazy, stinky or kombucha-y. Often adopted by the hipster set, these wines tend to embrace characteristics that are considered faults in classical winemaking: brett, volatile acid or mousiness. Naysayers will argue that these wines are more spiritual and expressive than correct.

“Sometimes you can really like a musician and what they stand for, and then they drop a real clunker of a song,” says Fleming. “The same is true in the wine world. Responsible agriculture is great and the world needs more of it, but you need to be able to still make a good wine.”

This argument could play out for ages, but one thing is certain: Natural wine has helped welcome in a new guard of wine drinkers. Once upon a time, wine was for the elite—suit-and-tie collectors with deep pockets and big cellars. Now the average wine-bar customer is scene-y, soigné and sporting stick-and-poke tattoos. These weird and wonderful wines? They’re democratizing the industry at a time when wine sales are lower than ever.

NATURALLY GOOD WINES

Sustainably minded wines don’t need to be esoteric or odd in flavour profile. There are category-changing wines that are clean and classic in profile, but responsible in practice.

In Abruzzo, Emidio Pepe produces age-worthy Montepulciano and opulent Trebbianos from a farm deeply rooted in regenerative practices. In Napa Valley, Matthiasson and Grgich Hills Estates produce precise, ethereal California Chardonnays while pursuing high levels of organic and regenerative production. In Champagne, Billecart-Salmon's viticulturists are committed to sustainability and their bruts have become sommelier darlings. Domaine Faiveley makes some of the most admired

wines in Burgundy that just so happen to be organic. And, in Anjou, biodynamic winery Clau du Nell produces Loire wines that sing with expression and flavour.

Here in Canada, Tawse and Rosewood in Ontario are keen biodynamists and organists, as are B.C.’s Sperling Vineyards and Summerhill Pyramid Winery.

“Given the current climate in the B.C. wine-making industry, people are definitely on board with the idea of responsible farming practices and environmental stewardship,” says Forsyth. “I'm a big fan of pointing to this when introducing guests to wineries like Tantalus (LEED certified), Synchromesh (holistic farming), and Le Vieux Pin (SWBC).“

“Wine really reflects a global need for sustainability,” says Sferrazza. “We can see it in the recent vintages— look at the Okanagan—but beyond that, it’s also a pollutant-heavy industry that needs to change. And for consumers, change means giving back to the world through better farming, giving back to communities with better jobs, and looking to the future with better practices.

“Ultimately, if the wine is good and comes with some extra sustainable benefits to match, it is a solid pick in my books.”

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Ontario's Rosewood Wines is all about biodynamic farming. Photo courtesy of Rosewood Wines

Australian love affair

OUR RELATIONSHIP ISN’T ALWAYS EASY, BUT ENJOYING THE WINES IS

MW

WORLD OF WINE
Australia's beautiful McLaren Vale is famous for its old vines and premium Shiraz; it also grows exciting Italian varieties. iStock / Getty Images Plus / MarkPiovesan photo 26 ISSUE 13

Canada has always had a bit of a love affair with Australian wine, but it is a somewhat fickle relationship and one that can be tumultuous at times.

Although Canada is Australia’s fourth largest export market by value, numbers have been dipping over the years. Last year, sales were down by 24 per cent in terms of dollars. Yet exports to Canada by volume actually increased—likely as more bulk Aussie wine is shipped north to appear silently in “Cellared in Canada” wines.

Canadians have embraced Australia's bold, fruity wines, a superficial bond mainly extending to bulk-produced, big-brand wines. But producers feel that Canadians show little interest in the finer, cool-climate terroirs dotted throughout Australia’s 65 wine-growing regions.

Aussies also get a little bit frustrated when Canadians refer simply to “Australian” wine without recognizing the size and complexity of the country’s different regions and climates. In fact, if you were to drop the Australian land mass on top of Europe, it would cover a region expanding from Portugal through Spain, France, Italy and Germany. And we know those countries aren’t simply producing “European” wine.

Australian producers have always had a little beef with Canadians that they don’t import enough of the good stuff, just the cheaper “Australian” wine. But Aussies haven’t always been the best partner, either.

TARIFFS AND TRADE

In 2018, Australia put a complaint to the World Trade Organization against Canadian provinces, having a little strop that the market wasn’t fair with all the distribution, licensing and sales measures such as product markups, market access and listing policies, as well as duties and taxes on wine applied at the federal and provincial level.

The result: Canadian wineries have had to start paying the excise taxes they had previously been exempt from and their wines lost many preferential treatments across the country.

But Aussie winegrowers have had a tough time in recent years. Like every country, climate change has dealt its blows, but for a country that exports around 60 per cent of its production, most of the mayhem has been caused by changes to the playing field beyond their control.

Winemakers are still reeling from a spat with China that saw tariffs of between 116 to 218 per cent slapped on Aussie wine in 2021—after having had a zero-per-cent rate since 2015. In March of this year, the tariffs were repealed, but in the meantime, this was a lethal setback. In 2020, China comprised 18 per cent of Aussie export volumes and 40 per cent of its value. The tariffs dropped sales from US$866.4 million in 2019 to a meager US$5.79 million three years later in 2022.

So what happens to all the wine that was already made, packaged and destined for China? Priced out of the market, the wine has been stockpiling in warehouses

or offered at bargain prices to Aussies. Full tanks at wineries have meant grape prices in bulk regions have plummeted, with growers complaining that prices are lower per ton than they received in the 1980s and below what it costs them to farm. Hundreds of thousands of vines have been ripped out. Now China's change in policy has given Australian producers hope, though it will be too late for some.

Australia has also not been immune to the struggles of a softening global wine industry. We’ve all felt the impact of inflation, high interest rates and a more health-conscious mentality, with the resulting decline in sales as wine drinkers consume less and give up premium bottles to pay for rent and ever more expensive groceries.

This all sounds negative, but, as is often the case, interesting things start to happen in adversity, and winegrowers have been given the chance to do things differently.

NEW VARIETIES, NEW IDEAS

There are lots of interesting and exciting things happening in Australia, led by a new generation of winemakers.

Stereotypical examples of Shiraz, Cabernet or Chardonnay are being replaced by Italian varieties like Fiano, Vermentino, Barbera and Sangiovese, as well as Spanish Tempranillo. These alternative varieties are proving well suited to the dry, sunny, drought-prone conditions in many Australian wine regions. They hold natural acidity and often require less water, not to mention pair well with Australian cuisine.

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Canadians have long enjoyed Australia's big, fruity and affordable bulk wines, but the country offers a huge range of styles and regions to discover. iStock / Getty Images Plus / Brycia James photo

Meanwhile, natural wines and styles that fly in the face of uniformity are popping up in wine stores across Australia.

Many grapes from the large inland regions that used to disappear anonymously into bulk blends are popping up as exciting new small-production brands. Producers such as Alpha Box & Dice, Ochota Barrels, Koerner and Delinquente are revolutionizing Aussie wine. Alpha Box & Dice say they are embarking on an alphabet of wine, a different unique wine for every letter of the alphabet. Delinquente is making small-batch, minimal-intervention wines with fun labels and clever stories, using organically grown southern Italian varieties from Riverland, a region in South Australia historically considered more suitable only for bulk production.

The cool-climate regions that Aussies have been trying for decades to get the world to notice amid a sea of “sunshine in a bottle” haven’t gone away either. They just don’t get imported to Canada enough for us to enjoy them. There are some agents working hard to bring us a taste of these wines. Cool-climate Aussie Shiraz is typically peppery and meaty, a far cry from the jammy wines many expect. Cool-climate Aussie Chardonnay has also never been better. Think minerality, restrained and subtle use of oak, and plenty of freshness.

And there are the classics, underappreciated and underrepresented, but always delivering: racy, mineral-driven dry Riesling; the elegant yet ripe Cabernet from the terra rossa soils of Coonawarra; Tasmanian traditional method sparkling wine that rivals Champagne; Margaret River Chardonnay; and Yarra Valley Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

Of course there is more, much more to explore. Agents like Pete Marshall of Sur Lie are bringing in some of Australia’s most interesting wines, so ask for these in your favourite wine store.

This diverse country the size of Europe produces an amazing array of wines. If you look for them, you’ll find something to rekindle your love affair for Australia wine.

THREE AUSSIE WINES TO TRY

Hollick

WORLD OF WINE
Giant Steps 2021 Chardonnay (Yarra Valley, Australia, $43) Seamless integration of lemon, wet stones, lees, nut, nectarine. Delinquente 2023 Bullet Dodger Montepulciano (Riverland, South Australia, $33) Damson plum, dried flowers, pepper with a silky texture. 2019 Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon ( Coonawarra, Australia, $38) Cassis, iron, eucalyptus with fine dusty tannin.
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The Hunter Valley in New South Wales is the birthplace of Australian wine and a renowned gourmet destination. iStock / Getty Images Plus / FiledIMAGE photo

PASSION INSPIRED BY PLACE

Sample our iconic wines accompanied by thoughtful small bites amidst the stunning desert landscape of the Black Sage Bench.

Our doors are open daily from 11 AM to 5 PM, April through October.

for details and reservations

250-498-0666 or visit blackhillswinery.com

4190 Black Sage Road, Oliver, BC V0H 1T1 @blackhillswinery

SCAN TO RESERVE YOUR EXPERIENCE
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FOOD FOR THOUGHT
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At Bar Susu in Mount Pleasant, enjoy whatever intriguing natural wines are being poured. Sarah Annand photo courtesy of Bar Susu

Ready, set, sip

YOUR GUIDE TO WINE BARS IN VANCOUVER AND VICTORIA

It should come as no surprise that here at Vitis, we love a good wine bar, and we really love the fact that there are suddenly a lot more of them around. Of course, a wine bar isn’t just a place to get tipsy on, say, Chardonnay. It’s a place to savour delicious things in a convivial atmosphere, guided by professionals who are passionate and knowledgeable about what’s in your glass and on your plate. Often that means small plates for sharing and wines by the glass, all the better for trying more and more things.

Here are some of our favourites in Vancouver and Victoria.

VANCOUVER, DOWNTOWN:

Bar Gobo, 237 Union Street

Discover rare varieties, natural wines “and other fun things” curated by star somm Peter Van de Reep at this tiny, Michelin-recommended joint in Chinatown. Order the seasonal prix fixe menu and let the somm pour whatever he thinks best. bargobo.com

The Wine Bar at Provence Marinaside, 1177 Marinaside Crescent

With its 125+ wines by the glass, TWB is not, perhaps, for the indecisive among us. But it is for those of us who love to try everything at every price point. As one might expect, French wines are a speciality and pair delightfully with the Provençal menu. thewinebar.ca

Bar Tartare, 54 Alexander Street

This Gastown boîte is the destination for hipsters seeking natural, low-intervention wines in a casual environment—just amble up to the bar and discover what’s chilling in the fridge. Enjoy with whatever the rotating series of chefs is cooking up. bartartareyvr.ca

Salt, 227 East Pender Street

Gastown’s pioneering place for cheese, meat and wine— the place that made sherry cool for a hot minute—has relocated to Chinatown after a two-year break. Order a flight of whatever they are pouring and enjoy the sense of discovery. IG @salt.chinatown

Uva Wine & Cocktail Bar, 900 Seymour Street

Squint just so and you might think you’re in Milan. But no, you’re in the stylishly revamped Moda Hotel, where you can enjoy an intriguing selection of mainly Italian wine and snacks, as well as handcrafted cocktails. uvavancouver.com

VANCOUVER, EAST SIDE AND MOUNT PLEASANT:

Bar Susu, 209 East 6th Avenue

Bar Susu, the casual sibling to Michelin-starred Published, returns to its historic digs this spring after a fire forced it to relocate for nearly a year. Drop in, taste whatever is open (typically something refreshingly natural) and try the fabulous fare from a talented kitchen. thisisbarsusu.com

Dear Gus Snack Bar, 2040 Quebec Street

A petite European-style wine bar with a menu of lovely snacking things—cheese, oysters, mussels, anchovies, ricotta gnocchi—and a rotating selection of intriguing wines. Its wine club offers access to exclusive wine tastings and dinners. deargus.com

A taste adventure at Bar Gobo. Facebook.com/BarGoboVancouver photo
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Caffe La Tana, 635 Commercial Drive

Swing by the charming space beside Pepino’s Spaghetti House for an all-Italian wine list and gorgeous handmade pastas. You can also pick up Italian gourmet foods—Pepino’s meatballs, pasta-making tools, burrata—in the wee market. caffelatana.ca

VANCOUVER, WEST SIDE:

The Stable House Bistro, 1520 West 13th Avenue

This bright, fresh, welcoming wine bar is the perfect place to stop in after shopping along South Granville. We love the charcuterie boards, the classic croque monsieur and anything from the lively cellar. stablehouse.ca

Grapes & Soda, 1541 West 6th Avenue

This 25-seater next door to sister restaurant Farmer’s Apprentice may be tiny, but it’s big on fabulous things to taste, whether it’s a sichuan duck leg, kale gomae, biodynamic Grüner from Austria or amphora Syrah from the Similkameen. grapesandsoda.ca

VICTORIA:

Bodega and Bar Poco, 1210 Broad Street and 616 Trounce Alley

Owned by the same folks as the family-friendly Tapa Bar between them, these are the places to go in Victoria for small bites and superlative wines. Bodega is sophisticated and Spanish forward, ideal for when you’re craving a vermouth flight; Bar Poco is, as the name suggests, tiny, with an inventive menu and surprising sips like Ursa Major’s Merlot-Gew co-ferment. bodegabar.ca, barpoco.ca

Bray’s West Coast Tapas + Wine Bar, 460 Pandora Avenue

Sleek, modern and new, Bray’s is an exciting addition to the city’s sipping scene. It offers creative share plates— the kale pesto gnocchi is a must—and a lively selection of wines both local and international, as well as a terrific patio for people watching. braysvictoria.ca

L’Apéro Wine and Cheese Bistro, 1028 Blanshard Street

Behind an unassuming storefront on busy Blanshard, cheesemonger Guillaume Kieffer has assembled a paradise for fans of fromage and the wines that go with. Attentive staff, terrific wines, gorgeous cheeses, lots of lovely melty raclette. laperobistro.net

Tourist Wine Bar, 1002 Blanshard Street

Victoria’s first natural-wine bar caters to a market eager for funky new flavours in a casual sipping environment. Let the house somms take you on a tour of whatever is chilling in the wine fridge, and enjoy with the popular burger. IG @touristwinebar

Vis-à-Vis Bouchon Bar, 2232 Oak Bay Avenue

This charming French bistro in Oak Bay features an award-winning wine list heavy on selections from B.C. and France, with loads of options by the glass. Perfect alongside a menu of classics like coq au vin and duck à l’orange. visavisoakbay.com

The Farmer’s Daughter, 2360 Beacon Avenue, Sidney

On your way to or from the ferry? Take a detour into charming Sidney-by-the-Sea and belly up to the counter for a flight of wine and cheese (or, on Wednesdays, fondue). Then pick up some cheese and accompaniments for the drive home. thefarmersdaughter.co

FOOD FOR THOUGHT
A warm welcome at Stable House Bistro. Instagram.com/StableHouseBistro photo
32 ISSUE 13
In Victoria, the new Bray's West Coast Wine + Tapas Bar is all about sharable dishes like the truffle popcorn showered with shredded Manchego cheese. Joanne Sasvari photo

Vancouver Island and Gulf Islands

From the Saanich Peninsula to the Comox Valley to the Gulf Islands that dot the Salish Sea, this region features pockets of microclimates ideal for growing grapes, especially cooler climate varieties such as Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. The wineries are mostly smaller, family-owned properties located in beautiful landscapes and surrounded by bountiful farms.

COURTENAY/ COMOX

40 Knots Estate Winery

Pinot Gris, Pinot Auxerrois, Siegerrebe, Pinot Noir, Gamay, sparkling wine, white and red blends, rosé, orange, fruit wine 40knotswinery.com

Beaufort Vineyard & Estate Winery

Ortega, Gewürztraminer, Petite Milo, Pinot Noir, Foch Nouveau, white and red blends, sparkling wine, rosé, vermouth beaufortwines.ca

Coastal Black Estate Winery

Fruit wines, honey wines coastalblack.ca

COWICHAN VALLEY

Alderlea Vineyards

Bacchus, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine alderlea.com

Averill Creek Vineyard

Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Foch, white and red blends, sparkling wine, rosé, vermouth, fortified wine averillcreek.ca

Blue Grouse Estate Winery

Siegerrebe, Pinot Gris, Ortega, Bacchus, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Black Muscat, sparkling wine, white and red blends, rosé, fortified wine bluegrouse.ca

Cherry Point Estate

Wines

Pinot Blanc, Gewürztraminer,

Ortega, Pinot Gris, Siegerrebe, Pinot Noir, sparkling wine, red blends, rosé, fruit wine, dessert wine, fortified wine cherrypointestatewines.com

Cobble Hill Winery

Grüner Veltliner, Albariño, Verdelho, Siegerrebe, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Libre, Castel cobblehillwinery.ca

Divino Estate Winery

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Muscat, Trebbiano, Pinot Noir, Castel, white and red blends divinowine.ca

Emandare Vineyard and Winery

Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, Marechal Foch, Syrah, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine emandarevineyard.com

Enrico Winery

Ortega, Pinot Gris, Petite Milo, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Libre, red blends, sparkling wine, rosé, fortified wine enricowinery.com

Rocky Creek Winery

Pinot Gris, Cabernet Foch, sparkling wine, white and red blends, rosé, fruit wine rockycreekwinery.ca

Telltale Winery

Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, white and red blends telltalewinery.ca

Unsworth Vineyards

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Sauvignette, Petit Milo, Auxerrois, Pinot Noir, sparkling wine, white and red blends, rosé, dessert wine unsworthvineyards.com

Venturi-Schulze Vineyards

Kerner, Pinot Noir, sparkling wine, orange wine, dessert wine venturischulze.com

Zanatta Winery

Pinot Gris, Ortega, Pinot Noir, Moscato, sparkling wine, rosé, white and red blends zanatta.ca

NANAIMO

Millstone Estate Winery

Ortega, Riesling, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, fruit wine millstonewinery.ca

SAANICH PENINSULA

Church & State Wines (Saanich)

Chardonnay, Marsanne, Rousanne, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Pinot Gris, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Petit Verdot, rosé, white and red blends, sparkling wine churchandstatewines.com

Deep Cove Winery

Pinot Gris, Ortega, Pinot Noir, red and white blends deepcovewinery.ca

Invinity Sparkling

Wine House

Sparkling wine invinity.ca

Neighbourly Wine Co.

Ortega, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Marechal Foch, Pinot Noir, rosé neighbourlywines.com

The Roost Farm Centre & Highland House Farm Winery

Siegerrebe, red blends, rosé, fruit wines roostfarmcentre.com

GULF ISLANDS

Corlan Vineyard & Farm

Ortega, Siegerrebe, Marechal Foch, rosé, fruit wines corlanvineyard.ca

Hornby Island Estate Winery Fruit wines hornbywine.com

Isla de Lerena Vineyard

Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, white and red blends, sparkling wine, orange wine, fruit wine lerenavineyards.com

Sea Star Estate Farm and Vineyards

Chardonnay, Ortega, white blends, rosé, sparkling wine seastarvineyards.ca

SouthEnd Farm Winery

Siegerrebe, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine, piquette southend.ca

Garry Oaks Estate Winery

Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, Zweigelt, white and red blends, rosé, dessert wine garryoakswinery.com

Kutatás Wines

Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Ortega, Pinot Noir, white blends, rosé kutataswines.com

Salt Spring Vineyards & Winery

Ortega, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fruit wines saltspringvineyard.ca

Sage Hayward Vineyards

Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, white blend, rosé sagehaywardvineyards.com

33

Fraser Valley

It comes as something of a surprise to many people to learn that there are about two dozen wineries right on the doorstep of B.C.’s biggest city—including one right in Vancouver itself. Wineries in Surrey, Richmond, New Westminster, Delta, Langley, Aldergrove and Abbotsford produce wine from everything from rice to berries to vitis vinifera. Most are small, family-owned properties and several offer additional attractions such as farm tours or bistros.

ABBOTSFORD

Cannon Estate Winery

White and red blends, rosé cannonwinery.ca

Maan Farms Estate Winery Fruit wine, dessert wine maanfarms.com

Mt. Lehman Winery Ehrenfelser, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Gamay Noir, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, red blends, rosé, orange wine, sparkling wine, fortified wine mtlehmanwinery.ca

Ripples Winery

Muscat, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, red blends, rosé, fruit wines, fortified wines rippleswinery.com

Seaside Pearl Farmgate Winery

Petite Milo, Pinot Gris, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah, Petit Verdot, red blends, sparkling wine seasidepearlwinery.ca

Singletree Winery

Pinot Gris, Grüner Veltliner, Siegerrebe, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, red blends, sparkling wine singletreewinery.com

CHILLIWACK

Whispering Horse Winery

Pinot Gris, L’Acadie Blanc, Epicure, sparkling wine whisperinghorsewinery.com

LANGLEY/ ALDERGROVE

Backyard Vineyards

Bacchus, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Viognier, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, rosé, white and red blends, sparkling wine, fortified wine backyardvineyards.ca

Chaberton Estate Winery

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Bacchus, Madeleine Sylvaner, Siegerrebe, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé, dessert wine, fortified wine chabertonwinery.com

Glass House Estate Winery

Muscat Ottonel, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Bacchus, Madeleine Sylvaner, Madeleine Angevine, Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, white blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine glasshouseestatewinery.com

Krause Berry Farms & Estate Winery

Fruit wines, dessert wines krauseberryfarms.com

The Fort Langley Wine Co.

Fruit wines thefortwineco.com

Township 7 Vineyards & Winery (Langley)

Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Viognier, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine township7.com

Vigneti Marchetto

Pinot Noir, white and red blends vignetimarchetto.com

Vista D’oro Farms & Winery

Siegerrebe, Schönburger, Pinot Gris, Marechal Foch, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine, fortified walnut wine, piquette vistadoro.com

NEW WESTMINSTER

Pacific Breeze Winery

Pinot Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Merlot, Petit Verdot, red blends, rosé, orange wine, dessert wine pacificbreezewinery.com

NORTH VANCOUVER

Garden of Granite

Winery

Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Kerner, Viognier, Gamay, Syrah, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine gardenofgranitewinery.com

RICHMOND

Isabella Winery

Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, red blends, rosé, fruit wines, dessert wines, icewine isabellawinery.com

Lulu Island Winery

Viognier, Muscat, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Merlot, Syrah, blends, fruit wine, icewine luluislandwinery.com

Richmond Country Vines

Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Schönburger, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Riesling, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine countryfarms.ca/ country-vines-winery

SURREY

1st R.O.W. Estate Winery

Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah, Malbec, red blends, rosé, dessert wine, fruit wine 1row.ca

Cityside Winery

Riesling, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, white blends citysidewinery.com

Vinoscenti Vineyards

Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Marechal Foch, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah, white and red blends, dessert wine vinoscentivineyards.ca

VANCOUVER

Vancouver Urban Winery

Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Merlot, rosé, white and red blends, sparkling wine vancouverurbanwinery.com

34 ISSUE 13

Okanagan

When most people think B.C. wine, they think of the Okanagan Valley, which produces 84 per cent of the province’s wine. This is one of the most varied wine regions in the world, stretching from cool-climate Lake Country in the north to the blistering-hot desert around Osoyoos in the south. Everything from ice wine to big, tannic, fruit-driven reds is produced at wineries that range from small family-run boutique vineyards to big global players, many of them featuring fine restaurants, guesthouses and cultural experiences.

GOLDEN MILE BENCH

CheckMate Artisanal

Winery

Chardonnay, Merlot checkmatewinery.com

Culmina Family Estate

Winery

Chardonnay, Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, Viognier, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, red blends, rosé culmina.ca

Fairview Cellars

Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, white and red blends, rosé fairviewcellars.ca

Gehringer Brothers

Estate Winery

Auxerrois, Sauvignon Blanc, Ehrenfelser, Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Merlot, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine, icewine gehringerwines.ca

Hester Creek Estate

Winery

Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Trebbiano, Chardonnay, Viognier, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine hestercreek.com

Road 13 Vineyards

Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Tempranillo, red blends, sparkling wine road13vineyards.com

Rust Wine Co.

Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Chardonnay, Gamay Noir, Merlot, Zinfandel, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, white and red blends, rosé rustwine.com

Tinhorn Creek Vineyards

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Roussanne, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine tinhorn.com

KALEDEN

Anthony Buchanan Wines

Muscat, Chardonnay, Gamay Noir, rosé, sparkling wine, piquette anthonybuchananwines.ca

Birch Block Vineyard

Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Noir, rosé, sparkling wine birchblockvineyard.com

Black Market Wine Co.

Bacchus, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, piquette blackmarketwine.ca

Farm Gate Winery

Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Viognier, Chardonnay, Merlot, Malbec, Zweigelt, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine, dessert wine, fruit wine farmgatewinery.com

Lakeboat Vineyard & Winery

Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine lakeboatwinery.com

Skaha Vineyard at Kraze Legz Winery

Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé, fortified wine, icewine krazelegz.com

KELOWNA

Ancient Hill Estate Winery

Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Lemberger, Pinot Noir, Baco Noir, rosé ancienthillwinery.com

CedarCreek Estate Winery

Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, red blends, rosé, cedarcreek.bc.ca

Martin's Lane Winery

Riesling, Pinot Noir, icewine martinslanewinery.com

Meadow Vista Honey Wines

Fruit wines, honey wines meadowvista.ca

Mirabel Vineyards

Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, rosé, sparkling wine mirabelvineyards.com

Nagging Doubt Winery

Chardonnay, Siegerrebe, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, red blends naggingdoubt.com

Priest Creek Family Estate

Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé priestcreekwinery.com

Sandhill Wines

Sovereign Opal, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Viognier, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese, Barbera, red blends, rosé sandhillwines.ca

Scorched Earth Winery

Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah, rosé scorchedearthwinery.ca

SpearHead Winery

Pinot Gris, Riesling,

Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, dessert wine spearheadwinery.com

Sperling Vineyards

Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Marechal Foch, Pinot Noir, white blends, orange, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine sperlingvineyards.com

St. Hubertus & Oak Bay Estate Winery

Riesling, Chasselas, Gewürztraminer, Schönburger, Pinot Noir, Gamay Noir, Marechal Foch, white and red blends, rosé st-hubertus.bc.ca

Summerhill Pyramid Winery

Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Marechal Foch, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah, Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, icewine summerhill.bc.ca

Tantalus Vineyards

Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah, rosé, sparkling wine, piquette, dessert wine, icewine tantalus.ca

The Vibrant Vine

Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Merlot, white blends, rosé, sparkling wine, icewine thevibrantvine.com

The View Winery

Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Ehrenfelser, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, sparkling wine theviewwinery.com

LAKE COUNTRY

50th Parallel Estate

Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, rosé, sparkling wine 50thparallel.com

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Arrowleaf Cellars

Riesling, Pinot Gris, Bacchus, Chardonnay, Petite Arvine, Pinot Noir, Zweigelt, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine arrowleafcellars.com

Blind Tiger Vineyards

Riesling, Pinot Noir, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine blindtigervineyards.ca

Ex Nihilo Vineyards

Pinot Gris, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Viognier, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Malbec, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, icewine exnihilovineyards.com

Gray Monk Estate Winery

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Ehrenfelser, Auxerrois, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Siegerrebe, Cabernet

Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine graymonk.com

Intrigue Wines

Riesling, Chardonnay, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine intriguewines.ca

O’Rourke Family Estate

Chardonnay, Pinot Noir ofestate.com

Peak Cellars

Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine peakcellars.com

NARAMATA BENCH

1 Mill Road Vineyard

Pinot Noir, rosé 1millroad.ca

Bella Wines

Sparkling wine bellawines.ca

Bench 1775 Winery

Roussanne, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Riesling,

Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Marechal Foch,. Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Tempranillo, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine, icewine bench1775.com

Black Widow Winery

Muscat, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Schönburger, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine blackwidowwinery.com

Chain Reaction Winery

Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Pinot Noir, white blends, rosé, sparkling wine chainrectionwine.com

Coolshanagh Wines

Chardonnay, Pinot Noir coolshanagh.ca

D’Angelo Estate

Winery

Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, Tempranillo, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine, dessert wine dangelowinery.com

Da Silva Vineyards & Winery

Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc,

Fumé Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Pinot Noir, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine dasilvavineyards.com

Daydreamer Wines

Pinot Gris, Riesling, Syrah, red blends, rosé daydreamerwines.ca

Deep Roots Winery

Chardonnay, Gamay, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Malbec, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine deeprootswinery.com

Elephant Island

Winery

Viognier, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fruit wines elephantislandwine.com

Four Shadows

Vineyard & Winery

Chardonnay, Riesling, Merlot,

Pinot Noir, sparkling wine fourshadowsvineyard.com

Fox and Archer Wines

Sémillion, Pinot Noir, Malbec, rosé, sparkling wine foxandarcherwines.com

Foxtrot Vineyards

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, rosé foxtrotwine.com

Hillside Winery & Bistro

Pinot Gris, Muscat Ottonel, Gewürztraminer, Viognier, Gamay Noir, Syrah, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, red blends, rosé, fortified wine, icewine hillsidewinery.ca

Howling Bluff Estate Winery

Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé, fortified wine howlingbluff.ca

JoieFarm

Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Viognier, Chardonnay, Gamay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Malbec, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine joiefarm.com

Kettle Valley Winery

Chardonnay, Viognier, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Malbec, Merlot, Petite Sirah, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Zinfandel, white and red blends, dessert wine kettlevalleywinery.com

La Frenz Winery

Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Sémillon, Chardonnay, Syrah, Pinot Noir, Malbec, Merlot, white and red blends, sparkling wine, fortified wines lafrenzwinery.com

Lake Breeze Vineyards

Rousanne, Chardonnay, Ehrenfelser, Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Pinot Noir, Pinotage, Syrah, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine lakebreeze.ca

Lang Vineyards

Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Merlot, Marechal Foch, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, port-style wine, dessert wine, icewine langvineyards.ca

Laughing Stock Vineyards

Viognier, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Chenin Blanc, Pinot Noir, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé laughingstock.ca

Lock & Worth Winery

Sémillon, Merlot, rosé lockandworth.com

Marichel Vineyard and Winery

Viognier, Syrah, red blends, rosé marichel.ca

MOCOJO Wines

Viognier, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Malbec, Merlot, rosé mocojowines.com

Monster Vineyards

Chardonnay, Merlot, Malbec, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine monstervineyards.ca

Moraine Estate Winery

Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Pinot Noir, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine morainewinery.com

Nichol Vineyard

Pinot Gris, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, sparkling wine nicholvineyard.com

Origin Wines

Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Malbec, red blends, rosé originwines.ca

Poplar Grove Winery

Pinot Gris, Viognier, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine poplargrove.ca

36 ISSUE 13

Roche Wines

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Schönberger, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé rterroir.ca

Ruby Blues Winery

Riesling, Viognier, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine rubyblueswinery.ca

Serendipity Winery

Pinot Noir, Merlot, red blends, sparkling wine serendipitywinery.com

Terravista Vineyards

Albariño, Roussanne, Viognier, Syrah, white blends terravistavineyards.com

Therapy Vineyards & Guest House

Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, Merlot, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine therapyvineyards.com

Three Sisters Winery

Pinot Auxerrois, Pinot Gris, Viognier, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Noir, Tempranillo, Gamay, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, orange, sparkling wine 3sisterswinery.com

Tightrope Winery

Muscat, Riesling, Sémillon, Pinot Gris, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine tightropewinery.ca

Township 7 Vineyards & Winery (Naramata)

Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Viognier, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine township7.com

Upper Bench Estate

Winery

Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zweigelt, red blends, rosé upperbench.ca

Van Westen Vineyards

Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Viognier, Riesling, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, white and red blends vanwestenvineyards.com

Wesbert Winery

Gewürztraminer, Viognier, Merlot, Pinotage, Gamay, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, piquette, dessert wine wesbertwinery.com

OKANAGAN FALLS

BC Wine Studio

Grüner Veltliner, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé bcwinestudio.ca

Blue Mountain Vineyard & Cellars

Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Gamay Noir, Pinot Noir, sparkling wine bluemountainwinery.com

Bonamici Cellars

Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Barbera, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine bonamicicellars.com

Echo Bay Vineyard

Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, red blends echobayvineyard.ca

Liquidity Wines

Chardonnay, Viognier, Riesling, Merlot, Pinot Noir, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine liquiditywines.com

Mayhem Wines

Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Merlot, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine mayhemwines.com

Meyer Family Vineyards

Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, rosé, sparkling wine mfvwines.com

Nighthawk Vineyards

Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, sparkling wine nighthawkvineyards.com

Noble Ridge Vineyard & Winery

Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine nobleridge.com

Rigour & Whimsy

Pinot Blanc, Gamay Noir, white and red blends, orange, sparkling wine rigourandwhimsy.ca

See Ya Later Ranch

Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, icewine sylranch.com

Stag's Hollow Winery & Vineyard

Albariño, Pinot Gris, Vidal, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Dolcetto, Syrah, Teroldego, Merlot, red blends, rosé, dessert wine, icewine stagshollowwinery.com

Synchromesh Wines

Riesling, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, red blends, rosé synchromeshwines.ca

Uppercase Winery

Pinot Gris, Viognier, Chardonnay, Petit Verdot, Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, white and red blends, rosé uppercasewinery.com

Wild Goose Vineyards & Winery

Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Gamay Noir, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé, fortified wine wildgoosewinery.com

OLIVER

Bartier Bros. Winery

Muscat, Sémillon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, rosé, red blends, sparkling wine, piquette bartierbros.com

Black Hills Estate Winery

Viognier, Roussanne, Chardonnay, Syrah, Sangiovese, Tempranillo, white and red

blends, rosé, sparkling wine blackhillswinery.com

Burrowing Owl Estate Winery

Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Syrah, red blends, rosé, fortified wine burrowingowlwine.ca

Cassini Cellars

Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, dessert wine cassini.ca

Castoro de Oro Estate

Winery

Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Viognier, Merlot, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé castorodeoro.com

Church & State Wines (Okanagan)

Muscat, Chardonnay, Marsanne, Rousanne, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Pinot Gris, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, rosé, white and red blends, sparkling wine churchandstatewines.com

District Wine Village

Featuring: Apricus Cellars, Canter Cellars, Foolish Wine, Gneiss Wines, JoiRyde Winery, Nk’Mip Cellars, One Faith Vineyards, Silhouette Estate Winery, TIME Family of Wines, Valley Commons, Winemaker’s CUT districtwinevillage.com

Domaine Artema Gamay domaineartema.ca

French Door Estate

Winery

Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Malbec, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé frenchdoorwinery.com

gadZook Vinery

Merlot, Cabernet Franc, white blends, rosé, sparkling wine gadzookvinery.com

37

Gold Hill Winery

Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Merlot, Syrah, Tempranillo, Malbec, white and red blends, rosé goldhillwinery.com

Here’s the Thing Vineyards

Chardonnay, Viognier, Rousanne, Orange Muscat, Gamay Noir, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, red blends, rosé heresthethingvineyards.com

Hidden Chapel Winery

Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, white and red blends hiddenchapelwinery.com

Inniskillin Okanagan Vineyards

Pinot Gris, Chenin Blanc, Riesling, Fumé Blanc, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Malbec, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Tempranillo, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, sparkling wine, icewine inniskillin.com

Intersection Estate Winery

Pinot Blanc, Viognier, Riesling, Merlot,Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, white and red blends xwine.ca

Jackson-Triggs

Okanagan Estate

Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, white blends, rosé, sparkling wine, icewine jacksontriggswinery.com

Kismet Estate Winery

Pinot Gris, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine kismetestatewinery.com

La Casa Bianca Winery

Riesling, red blends, fruit wines, dessert wines lacasabianca.ca

Le Vieux Pin Winery

Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Viognier, Syrah, Merlot, white and red blends,rosé levieuxpin.ca

Maverick Estate

Winery

Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine maverickwine.ca

Nostalgia Wines

Pinot Gris, Kerner, Chardonnay, Viognier, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Malbec, Petit Verdot, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine, port-style wine nostalgiawines.ca

Phantom Creek Estate Winery

Riesling, Viognier, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Malbec, Merlot, red blends, rosé phantomcreekestates.com

Pipe’ Dreams Vineyard and Estate Winery

Grüner Veltliner, Kerner, Merlot, Gamay, Zweigelt, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine pipedreamswinery.com

Platinum Bench Estate Winery

Viognier, Pinot Gris, Gamay Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé platinumbench.com

Quinta Ferreira Estate Winery

Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Carménère, Malbec, Zinfandel, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé quintaferreira.com

Rainmaker Winery

Rousanne, Chardonnay, Viognier, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec, red blends, sparkling wine rainmakerwines.com

Ramification Cellars

Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, sparkling wine, fortified wine ramwine.com

Red Barn Winery at Jagged Rock

Sémillion, Viognier, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc,

Syrah, red blends, rosé redbarn.wine

Red Horses Vineyard

Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, red blends, rosé redhorsesvineyard.ca

River Stone Estate Winery

Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine riverstoneestatewinery.ca

Second Chapter Wine Company

Rousanne, Viognier, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec scwines.ca

Silver Sage Winery

Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Merlot, Pinot Noir, red blends, sparkling wine silversagewinery.com

Squeezed Wines

Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Syrah, red blends, rosé squeezedwines.ca

Stoneboat Vineyards

Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Pinotage, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine stoneboatvineyards.com

vinAmité Cellars

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Viognier, Gamay Noir, Petit Verdot, white and red blends vinamitecellars.com

OSOYOOS

Adega On 45th Estate

Winery Viognier, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Malbec, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, white and red blends, rosé, fortified wine adegaon45.com

Blue Sky Estate Winery

Viognier, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, white and red blends, rosé blueskywinery.ca

Bordertown Vineyards

Chardonnay, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Grüner

Veltliner, Muscat, Pinot Gris, Viognier, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé bordertownwinery.com

Lakeside Cellars

Orange Muscat, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine lakesidecellars.com

Lariana Cellars

Viognier, Carménère, Cabernet Sauvignon, red blends larianacellars.com

LaStella Winery

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Muscat, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, red blends, rosé lastella.ca

Liber Farm & Winery

Chardonnay, Riesling, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé liberfarm.com

Moon Curser

Vineyards

Viognier, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère, Syrah, Dolcetto, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Tannat, Tempranillo, Touriga Nacional, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine mooncurser.com

Mythology Vineyard

Pinot Gris, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, white blends, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine mythologyvineyard.ca

Nk'Mip Cellars

Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé, icewine nkmipcellars.com

Osoyoos Larose Estate

Winery Bordeaux blend osoyooslarose.com

Over The Fence Winery

Viognier, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Syrah, Caberbet

38 ISSUE 13

Sauvignon, white blends, red blends, rosé overthefencewinery.ca

PEACHLAND

Fitzpatrick Family Vineyards

Chardonnay, Ehrenfelser, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, Gamay, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine fitzwine.com

Hainle Vineyards

Estate Winery

Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Petit Verdot, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine hainle.com

PENTICTON

Little Engine Wines

Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Malbec, white and red blends, rosé, fortified wine littleenginewines.com

Play Estate Winery

Sémillon, Moscato, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine playwinery.com

TIME Family of Wines

Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Riesling, Chardonnay, Syrah, Malbec, Merlot, Grenache, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, port-style wine timewinery.com

SKAHA BENCH

Blasted Church Vineyards

Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Lagrein, Syrah, Malbec, Refosco, Teroldego, Nebbiolo, Petit Verdot, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine blastedchurch.com

Crescent Hill Winery

Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Malbec, Zweigelt, white blends, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine crescenthillwinery.com

Painted Rock Estate Winery

Chardonnay, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, red blends, rosé paintedrock.ca

Pentâge Winery

Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blacn, Viognier, Gamay, Malbec, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Tempranillo, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine, dessert wine, icewine pentage.com

SUMMERLAND

8th Generation Vineyard

Riesling, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Merlot, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine 8thgeneration.com

Back Door Winery

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Muscat, Viognier, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Pinotage, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine backdoorwinery.com

Dirty Laundry Vineyard

Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Fumé Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Grüner Veltliner, Viognier, Syrah, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gamay, Malbec, Dolcetto, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, port-style wine dirtylaundry.ca

Garnet Valley Ranch Winery

Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, sparkling wine okanagancrushpad.com/ garnet-valley-ranch-winery

Giant Head Estate Winery

Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Pinot Noir, rosé, sparkling wine giantheadwinery.com

Haywire Winery

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Gamay, Pinot Noir, rosé, sparkling wine haywirewinery.com

Heaven's Gate Estate

Winery

Viognier, Gewürztraminer, Gamay Noir, Marechal Foch, Merlot, Malbec, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine heavensgatewinery.ca

Lightning Rock Winery

Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Noir, rosé, sparkling wine lightningrockwinery.ca

Lunessence Winery & Vineyard

Viognier, Chardonnay, Gamay, Merlot, red blends, rosé lunessencewinery.com

Sage Hills Organic Vineyard & Winery

Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, sparkling wine, fortified wine sagehillswine.com

Silkscarf Winery

Muscat, Chardonnay, Viognier, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine silkscarf-winery.com

Sleeping Giant Fruit

Winery

Fruit wines, dessert wines sleepinggiantfruitwinery.com

Solvero Wines

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, rosé solverowines.ca

SummerGate Winery

Muscat Ottonel, Kerner, Riesling, Pinot Noir, white blends, rosé, sparkling wine summergate.ca

Summerland Estate Winery

Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Pinot Noir, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine summerlandestatewinery.com

Thornhaven Estates Winery

Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine thornhaven.com

WEST KELOWNA

Beaumont Family Estate Organic Winery

Pinot Gris, Gamay Noir, Pinot Noir, white blends, rosé, sparkling wine, icewine beaumontwinery.com

Black Swift Vineyards

Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, red blends, rosé blackswiftvineyards.com

Ciao Bella Estate

Winery

Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, rosé, sparkling wine ciaobellawinery.com

Crown & Thieves

Pinot Gris, Riesling, Chardonnay, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine crownthieves.com

Frind Estate Winery

Chardonnay, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine frindwinery.com

Grizzli Winery

Muscat, Siegerrebe, Gewürztraminer, Viognier, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, red blends, dessert wine, icewine, fruit wine grizzliwinery.com

Kalala Organic Estate

Winery

Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Malbec, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Zweigelt, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, icewine kalalawines.ca

39

Little Straw Vineyards

Estate Winery

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Marechal Foch, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, icewine littlestraw.bc.ca

Mission Hill Family

Estate Winery

Viognier, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, icewine missionhillwinery.com

Mt. Boucherie Winery

Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Sémillon, Chenin Blanc, Syrah, Carménère, Sangiovese, Malbec, Merlot, Pinot Noir,

Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Blaufränkisch, white and red blends, orange, rosé, sparkling wine, icewine mtboucherie.com

Niche Wine Company

Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Marechal Foch, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine nichewinecompany.com

Off The Grid Organic Winery

Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Chardonnay, Merlot, Zweigelt, white blends, rosé, dessert wine offthegridorganicwinery.com

Quails' Gate Winery

Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Syrah, Cabernet

Similkameen

Sauvignon, Merlot, Marechal Foch, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé, dessert wine, icewine quailsgate.com

Rollingdale Winery

Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, sparkling wine, dessert wine, icewine, fortified wine rollingdale.ca

Tender Hope Winery

Riesling, Rousanne, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine tenderhopewinery.com

The Hatch

Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Merlot, Gamay, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine thehatchwines.com

Volcanic Hills Estate Winery

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Gamay Noir, Syrah, Merlot, Zweigelt, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, icewine volcanichillswinery.com

Known both as Canada’s organic capital and its best-kept-secret wine country, the sun-soaked Similkameen produces everything from fruit-driven reds to bright, flinty whites. Surrounded by rugged mountains that trap the heat and funnel mildew-banishing winds through the vineyards, the valley features a variety of soils including stone, gravel and silty loam from glacial rock formations. Although there are relatively few tasting rooms here, there are many vineyards that grow grapes for wineries in other regions.

CAWSTON

Bottega Wine Studios

Viognier, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé bottegawinestudio.ca

Crowsnest Vineyards

Chardonnay, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, Merlot, white blends, rosé, dessert wines crowsnestvineyards.com

Eau Vivre Winery & Vineyards

Riesling, Viognier, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, white and red blends eauvivrewinery.ca

Forbidden Fruit

Winery

Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Grüner Veltliner, Merlot,

Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, white and red blends, rosé, fruit wines forbiddenfruitwine.com

Hugging Tree Winery

Viognier, Merlot, red blends, rosé huggingtreewinery.com

Little Farm Winery

Riesling, Chardonnay, red blends, orange, rosé littlefarmwinery.ca

Orofino Vineyards

Muscat, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Riesling, Gamay, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Zinfandel, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine orofinovineyards.com

Rustic Roots Winery

Fruit wines, dessert wines rusticrootswinery.com

Scout Vineyard

Riesling, Syrah, rosé scoutvineyard.com

Seven Stones Winery

Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah, red blends, rosé sevenstones.ca

S’milka Vista

Viognier, Syrah, red blends, sparkling wine, rosé smilkavista.com

Vanessa Vineyard

Estate Winery

Viognier, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, red blends, rosé vanessavineyard.com

KEREMEOS

Clos Du Soleil Winery

Viognier, Pinot Gris, Fumé Blanc, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé closdusoleil.ca

Corcelettes Estate Winery

Gewürztraminer, Viognier, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine corceletteswine.ca

Robin Ridge Winery

Chardonnay, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Gamay, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine robinridgewinery.com

40 ISSUE 13

Other regions

Some of B.C.’s most exciting wines are being produced in regions that are so new, few people have heard of them. And, with our changing climate and improved technology, who knows where vintners will be planting grapes next?

THOMPSON VALLEY

Monte Creek Winery

Chardonnay, Frontenac Gris, Riesling, La Crescent, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, piquette, fruit wine montecreekranch.com

Privato Vineyard & Winery

Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine privato.ca

Sagewood Winery

Pinot Gris, Kerner, Riesling, Ortega, Gewürztraminer, Siegerrebe, Gamay, Pinot Noir, Marechal Foch, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine sagewoodwinery.ca

LILLOOET

Cliff and Gorge Vineyards

Marechal Foch, Petite Milo, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, white blends, rosé cliffandgorge.com

Fort Berens Estate Winery

Riesling, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Grüner Veltliner, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé,sparkling wine, dessert wine fortberens.ca

SHUSWAP

Baccata Ridge Winery

Marechal Foch, red blends, fruit wines, honey wines baccataridgewinery.ca

Celista Estate Winery

Ortega, Siegerrebe, Marechal Foch, white and red blends,

rosé, dessert wines, fortified wines celistawine.com

Edge Of The Earth Vineyards

Ortega, Marechal Foch, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, white blends, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine edgeearth.ca

Larch Hills Winery

Ortega, Sémillon, Siegerrebe, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Malbec, Merlot, Marechal Foch, Cabernet Sauvignon, Lemberger, red and white blends, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine larchhillswinery.com

Marionette Winery

Riesling, Zweigelt, Pinot Noir, Merlot, white blends, rosé, dessert wine marionettewinery.com

Recline Ridge Vineyards & Winery

Ortega, Bacchus, Siegerrebe, Kerner, Pinot Gris, Marechal Foch, white and red blends, rosé, dessert wines reclineridgewinery.com

Sunnybrae Vineyards & Winery

Siegerrebe, Ortega, Kerner, Marechal Foch, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé sunnybraewinery.com

Waterside Vineyard & Winery

Siegerrebe, Pinot Gris, Ortega, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Marechal Foch, white and red blends, rosé, dessert wines watersidewinery.com

KOOTENAYS

Baillie-Grohman Estate Winery

Chardonnay, Pinot Gris,

Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, white blends, orange, rosé bailliegrohman.com

Columbia Gardens

Vineyard & Winery

Gewürztraminer, Marechal Foch, Merlot, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé, fortified wine cgwinery.com

Red Bird Estate Winery

Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, piquette redbirdwine.com

Skimmerhorn Winery & Vineyard

Pinot Gris, Ortega, Marechal Foch, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé skimmerhorn.ca

Valley of the Springs Winery

Rivaner, Gewürztraminer, Marechal Foch, Gamay, Zweigelt, red blends, sparkling wine, rosé valleyofthespringswinery.com

Wynnwood Cellars

Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot,Pinot Noir, rosé wynnwoodcellars.com

PRINCE GEORGE

Northern Lights Estate Winery Ltd.

Fruit wines northernlightswinery.ca

estcoast Mediterranean inspired cuisine in a unique lakeside setting. W

Lunch // Dinner // Brunch // Happy Hour 6664 Deer Lake Avenue, Burnaby

HARTHOUSERESTAURANT.COM
41

Brix

THE SWEET CLUE TO FINDING BALANCE IN WINE

It’s a delicate dance between sugar, acidity and flavour, and Brix is the choreographer.

Brix is a magical number in the world of wine that sounds more like a secret code than a measurement.

Picture this: You’re strolling through a vineyard, the sun kissing your skin, the grapes ripe and juicy, and suddenly someone mentions Brix. Fear not, fellow wine geeks, for I am here to decode this enigma for you.

Brix is simply a unit of measurement, developed by a German mathematician named Adolph Brix in the early 1880s, that is used to determine the sugar (sucrose) content in grapes and, subsequently, in wine.

Think of it as the wine world’s sweet little secret.

Now, how is Brix measured and used, you ask? Winemakers, armed with trusty refractometers (fancy term for Brix-measuring devices), venture into the vineyards like sugar detectives, stalking those sweet, beautiful grapes. They pluck a few berries, squish them, and measure the sugar levels with a drop of grape juice.

The sugar content in juice directly influences the alcohol content in wine. It is like a grape-powered math equation—more sugar equals more alcohol. For example, if the

sugar content measures 21 Brix, the potential alcohol in the wine will be 12.2 per cent alcohol by volume. The equation is simple: multiply the Brix score by 0.55 to determine the possible alcohol level.

Brix measurements are crucial because winemaking is all about the balance between sweetness and acidity. Sugar balances out the acidity in wine, creating a harmonious flavour profile. Take Riesling, for example. This aromatic white wine’s flavour ranges from bone dry to lusciously sweet, but both ends of the spectrum balance sugar with acid for the desired end result.

Winemakers also use Brix readings to gauge the optimal time to harvest grapes. Most wine grapes are harvested between 21 and 25 Brix. Too early, and you risk underripe, tart wines. Too late, and you might end up with a syrupy, overly alcoholic concoction. It’s a delicate dance between sugar, acidity and flavour, and Brix is the choreographer.

So, the next time you hear someone drop the term “Brix” at a wine tasting, don’t panic. Instead, raise your glass and toast to the sweet science behind great wine.

WINE GEEK
A tool called a refractometer
sucrose level—in other
Getty Images / E+ / AleksandrNakic photo
is used to measure the
words, the Brix—in grapes.
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