the
Cellar Door Wi n e and p ossi b i l i t ie s by Banville & Jone s Wine Co.
South Africa A Wine Adventure
Issue 12 June - October 2012
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contents 22 38
Features 22 Amazing, Alive: South Africa Five wine experts from Banville & Jones give you their South African travel notes on food, culture, history, and safaris.
38 Diversity and Innovation: Simply South Africa Mike Muirhead introduces South Africa’s five most innovative wine regions.
50 The Next Generation: Philip van Zyl’s South Africa Gary Hewitt and Mike Muirhead discuss the future of the South African wine industry with Philip van Zyl, editor of South Africa’s premier wine guide, Platter’s South African Wines.
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59 South Africa: A Love Story Winnipeggers Paul and Shirley Martens bring their favourite South African wines home to you.
Cover: A giraffe roams the plains of the Kruger National Park Reserve.
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contents Columns 10 A Message from Tina Jones 13 Ask a Sommelier 16 Banville & Jones and Company 18 Grapevine 21 Behind the Label: Bouchard Finlayson 34 57
30 Gary’s Corner Roots
32 Gluggy Bulk vs. Boutique: Where is your money going?
34 Trending Outside the box
44 Test Kitchen Our wine experts travel to Bar Bar Black Sheep in Reibeek Kasteel, South Africa for some contemporary local fare.
54 Banville & Jones Wine and Food Events Schedule 56 Banville & Jones Wine Institute 44
58 Cottage Cases 62 CornerVine Explore Winnipeg’s only wine-focused social network
64 Culinary Partners 67 Sidebar Cape of Good Bubbles
68 Shopping List 70 Top Picks
www.banvilleandjones.com 7
the
Cellar Door Publisher and Marketing Director Megan Kozminski megan@poisepublications.com Editorial Director Lisa Muirhead lisa@poisepublications.com Art Director Aubrey Amante, CR3ATIVE cr3ativegraphics@gmail.com Sales Associate Vanessa Shapiro vanessa@poisepublications.com
Contributors Tina Jones, Todd Antonation, Andrea Eby, Carol Fletcher, Traci Friesen, Jennifer Hiebert, Gary Hewitt, Sylvia Jansen, Jill Kwiatkoski, Paul Martens, Shirley Martens, Ian McCausland, Saralyn Mehta, Mike Muirhead, Stephen Muirhead, Darren Raeside, Rob Stansel, Rick Watkins
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For advertising information, please contact megan@poisepublications.com Banville & Jones Wine Co. is a fine wine boutique in Winnipeg, Manitoba that specializes in promoting wine education and lifestyle. Opened by sisters Tina Jones and Lia Banville in 1999, it is located in a three-storey Tuscan-inspired facility that houses fine wine and accessories, an educational facility, and a private function room. Banville & Jones Wine Co. 1616 St Mary’s Rd. Winnipeg, MB R2M 3W7 ph. 204-948-9463 banvilleandjones.com banvilleandjones.cornervine.com
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a message from tina jones Welcome to South Africa! A year ago, no one on the Banville & Jones team had yet visited South Africa. We knew we needed to change that. Travel is a great educational opportunity for wine experts and wine lovers. Visiting a wine region brings us close to the current trends and lets us look at the hows, wheres and whys of the wine industry. Over the past few months, five Banville & Jones staffers made South Africa a priority. Each of us had high expectations, and South Africa exceeded those expectations at every turn! The country’s tourism is all about experience; the culture is young, energetic, and alive and we were welcomed into it enthusiastically. I should add that we felt safe wherever we went—even up close with the lions! Our wine experiences were amazing. Over the past few years, our friends Paul and Shirley Martens of Blend Imports have brought wonderful wines to our market. We visited many of their suppliers, and saw first-hand the fast-paced growth in South Africa’s quality wines. We were delighted by the amazing wine culture and feasted on a terrific variety of wines! Join us in a look at this amazing, energy-filled country. Mike Muirhead takes us through South Africa’s wine regions; Sylvia Jansen takes a close look at South African sparkling wines; and collectively, Gary Hewitt, Mike Muirhead, Sylvia Jansen, Darren Raeside and I share our travels with you. We hope you enjoy this issue, and we look forward to seeing you in the South Africa aisle of our store!
Tina Jones
10 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com
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ask a sommelier My friend serves wine in any glass he can find in the kitchen, saying that putting it in a proper wine glass makes no difference. Is he right? If not, what’s the purpose of the classic wine glass design?
I have a friend who swirls wine in its glass and tells me that it has “legs.” Why is he swirling it and what does he mean by “legs”? —Mark Saunders Dear Mark, Putting aside the fact that swirling wine is customary (and fun!), the scientific premise behind this debonair flick of the wrist is that agitation introduces oxygen into a wine, thereby enticing some of the volatile elements (aromas) to come out and play. We say a wine is “tight” when its tannins are high and its aromas are shut down. Swirling a wine in its glass (and by the same token, decanting a wine quickly) is a method we use to try and “open up” the wine. "Legs" are streams left behind on the glass that are created by alcohol evaporating when you swirl. It’s sort of a misconception how much the “legs” can tell you about the overall quality of the wine. Factoring in the cleanliness of the glass, the best you can hope for is to glean its alcohol content and perhaps a little about the winemaking if a lot of colour is left on the glass. —Brooklyn Hurst My partner, Faiz, and I are off to Napa and Sonoma and we want to tour some vineyards. I am sure a lot has changed since we lived there in the 1980s. Faiz does most of the wine shopping and he is very adventurous. I like full-bodied reds, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, although I surprise myself often when trying something different. Could you recommend vineyards that we should visit? —Chef Louise Briskie-de Beer, Cafe Savour
—Tim Hoover Dear Tim,
Dear Louise, Many Napa and Sonoma wineries are open to the public with elaborate tasting rooms and bookable tours; others require appointments. Are you interested in wine tourism or wines? For the former, Beringer's 19th-century German inspired mansion, Sterling’s cable car a n d p a n o ra m i c view of Napa Valley, and Inglenook/Rubicon Estate are Napa icons. In Sonoma, Benziger offers a terrific tour of their self-contained biodynamic vineyard and winery. If you are strictly wine focused, you’ll find most NapaSonoma red wines are full-bodied, even some of the Pinot Noirs! Before your trip, contact wineries that produce wines that appeal to you to express your interest—this opens doors and may broaden the experience. Come into the store for a chat, and we'll happily make more tailored recommendations. —Gary Hewitt
Your friend is definitely not right! Wine glasses are designed to enhance wine. The size of the bowl (bottom portion of the glass) controls the amount of surface area that is exposed to the air. It will determine how much or little liquid can be swirled, which in turn affects how much of the wine is exposed to air. Exposing wine to oxygen allows its flavours and aromas to open up. At the top of the glass, the thickness and shape of the rim will direct the wine to specific parts of the tongue, where we taste five different elements: sweetness, acidity, bitterness, saltiness, or savouriness. Finally, the diametre of the opening controls the bouquet (the aroma rising off the wine). The stem of the wine glass has a very practical purpose: without it, you would be holding the wine glass by the bowl, which would serve to warm a chilled white, or even overheat a glass of red. All of these elements contribute to a better tasting experience. Try this experiment with your friend: take a plastic cup, a water glass and a wine glass and pour the same wine into each. Get him to taste wine from each vessel. I bet you will never see him pour his Shiraz into a random glass again! —Saralyn Mehta If you have a question for our Sommeliers, visit us at www.banvilleandjones.com/cellar.aspx
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South Africa
When Winnipeggers Paul and Shirley Martens headed to South Africa in 1996, they thought they were going for a holiday. They returned with a love of the South African people, culture, and their imminently drinkable wines! Since that trip, they have returned every year to explore South Africa’s boutique and family-focused wineries, bringing the most interesting and affordable wines back to Manitoba to share with you!
blendimports.com
A.A. Badenhorst’s Red Blend Red Blend is a complex Swartland red that is continually evolving on the palate, with notes of blackberry, dried fruit, and minerality. This blend is made with old-vine material, and the care with which it is grown emerges in its purity, balance, and firm tannins. ($37.99)
Bouchard Finlayson Galpin Peak Pinot Noir Crafted in the traditional Burgundian style by South African wine royalty, winemaker Peter Finlayson’s Pinot Noir is balanced and clean, full of black fruit and spice. ($59.99)
Simonsig Chenin Blanc Bouchard Finlayson Blanc de Mer Blanc de Mer has been around for 20 years, but underwent a transition four years ago with the addition of Viognier to the traditionally Riesling-dominated Sauvignon, Chenin Blanc, and Chardonnay blend. With fresh notes of peaches, quince, and pear, you will enjoy a full palate and long finish. ($22.99)
This full-bodied Chenin Blanc comes from a long line of award-winning vintages. With its balanced freshness full of ripe pear, apricot, kiwi, and pineapple, it is an incredible value that will pair nicely with all your summer fare. ($11.99)
Thelema Mountain Vineyards Shiraz Originating on the cool slopes of their Stellenbosch vineyard, Thelema’s Shiraz pairs its plum and earthy notes on the nose with pure red and black fruit on the palate, and a finish that seems to stretch on forever. ($29.99)
Bon Courage Estate Wine Jacques Bruére Cap Classique Brut Reserve Made in the traditional méthode cap classique (MCC), this hand-made sparkling wine delights with aromas of peach and citrus, crazy bubbles in the mouth and a buttery, crisp finish. ($28.99)
Mullineux Family Wines Kloof Street Rouge This blend of Rhône varieties (Mourvèdre, Syrah, and Carignan) has a succinct nose of blackberry and cassis fruit. This incredible medium-bodied wine has fine tannins, boysenberry and a hint of citrus. An incredible value! ($23.00)
Bon Cap Wines The Ruins Pinotage Winemaker Roelf du Preez brings out the best in South Africa’s native grape with this easydrinking, food-friendly red. Created at the largest organic winery in South Africa, this Pinotage boasts dark, earthy fruit and coffee notes. ($14.99)
Sutherland Viognier Roussanne
Post House Blueish Black
The Thelema Mountain Vineyards’ Sutherland range of wines includes this medium-bodied ViognierRoussanne blend that captures all the fresh tastes of summer: apricot, lime, melon, and marmalade, with a hint of rosemary and marzipan. ($25.99)
Post House has a reputation for delivering deep, dark reds, and their Blueish Black is no exception. The deep ruby juice prepares you for a full-bodied experience of blueberries, blackberries, licorice, pepper, and spice. ($20.99)
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Friends of Banville & Jones: 1. Sylvia Jansen with Peter Finlayson of Bouchard Finlayson, Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, Walker Bay, SA; 2. Darren Raeside with Chris Neethling and Bruwer Raats of Raats Family Wines, Mike Muirhead and Gary Hewitt in Stellenbosch, SA; 3. Chris and Andrea Mullineux of Mullineux Family Wines, the Swartland, SA; 4. Floyd and Susan Auch with Richard and Tracy Leipsic at the Pizzeria Gusto Tolaini Winemaker's Dinner; 5. Tina Jones and Louie Tolaini of Tolaini Estates at the Pizzeria Gusto Tolaini Winemaker’s Dinner; 6. (clockwise from front): Barb Bembridge, Bobby Mottola, Barry Bembridge, Dr. J. Raubenheimer, Dr. T. Hayakawa, and Dr. J. Giuffre at the Tolaini Winmaker's Dinner at Pizzeria Gusto; 7. Graham Thomson (Red River College), Stephanie Forsyth (Red River College), Gary Hewitt, Tina Jones, and John Reimers (Red River College)
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8. Kevin Coates, Jan Coates and Sylvia Jansen get a lesson in South African cuisine on the River East Travel South African Wine tour, which included wine, food, culture, and safari; 9. Sheila of Ocean Eleven Guest House welcomes Julia Jones, Tina Jones, and Tracey Court to Hermanus, SA; 10. Mike Muirhead, Thomas Webb of Thelema Mountain Vineyards, Darren Raeside, and Gary Hewitt in Stellenbosch, SA; 11. In the cellar of Lammershoek Winery, the Swartland, SA; 12. Kevin Arnold, Waterford Estate Wines, Stellenbosch, SA; 13. Pieter Malan & Pierre Nortje of Simonsig Winery, Stellenbosch, SA; 14. Gary Hewitt, Darren Raeside, Mike Muirhead with Michelle and Roelf de Preez of Bon Cap Organic Wine Cellars (Robertson, SA) and Paul Martens. www.banvilleandjones.com 17
grapevine Banville & Jones's insider tips on wine and food trends
There is an almost extinct grape varietal taking Europe by storm and winning multiple awards. If you’ve asked Todd Antonation for a white wine recommendation in the last 6 months, you’ll be familiar with Domaine Félines Jourdan’s Picpoul de Pinet.
Manitoba-made Bon Vivant BBQ sauces and rubs will turn you into a grill guru! Visit the Banville & Jones gourmet food section for delicious sauces like FireRoasted Jalapeno and Chive or Rootbeer, and unique rubs like Chocolate Chili.
“Gluten free” sur le boulevard! Noticing an increase in requests among their customers, Step’N Out has been offering gluten-free options for months, and are exploring the option of becoming completely gluten free.
Guess who’s coming to dinner? Wine lovers are moving away from the big, oaky, kick-in-the-pants wines that have done so well on the North American market, toward lower-alcohol, less oak blends over single-variety wines.
Winnipeg + summer = patio. Pizzeria Gusto has a stunning patio and one of the city’s largest selections of sparkling Italian wine. Enjoy a long summer evening of Prosecco under the stars.
Rosé is here, just in time for summer! Pair a French Tavel or a Malbec Rosé with your summer salads or grilled seafood.
The Wine Sceptre is your key to a cool summer. This frozen stainless steel device will keep your Rosé or white at the perfect temperature from beginning to end.
Sherry is making a comeback! Internationally, sherry is considered by many to be one of the most food-friendly and undervalued wines on the market. Still not sure? Stop by Segovia Tapas Bar and try their extensive sherry list.
Jump into your best friend’s car (you don’t want to drive!) and make the trip to the third annual New Bothwell Wine & Cheese Festival in June.
Cooler climates produce wines with greater complexity that don’t blow your dinner right off the table.
The latest gateway wine is Roscato. Customers who have been turned on to this slightly sweet and bubbly red are rushing to Banville & Jones in droves.
When pairing wine with dessert, the key is to choose a wine as sweet or sweeter than the dessert, or the wine may taste bitter.
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Sparkling red Lambrusco may not sound very sophisticated, but freeze some fresh oranges and pour the Lambrusco over them for the perfect finish to a hearty meal.
Private wine tasting? We can arrange that! Contact Jennifer Hiebert, Banville & Jones’s Special Events Coordinator, for all of your event needs.
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Prosecco on the Patio Pizzeria Gusto has Winnipeg’s largest selection of bubbly by the glass. To cool off a hot afternoon or heat up an evening on their fabulous patio, bubbles are the perfect paring for Chef Eric Lee’s fresh, authentic Italian cuisine.
Make your summer sparkle with Pizzeria Gusto’s summer sparkling wine list and these heavenly pairings:
Flor Prosecco di Valdobbiandene
Primo Amore Moscato Puglia
Ca’del Bosco Cuvée Prestige Brut Franciacorta
The bubbles in this light Prosecco pair perfectly with delicately sauteéd calamari and arugula fennel salad.
Pair this sweet gem with the delectable salami Calabrese, fig jam and citrus arugula of the Lucia pizza.
This elegant Brut makes beautiful music with the prosciutto, artichoke, olives, and creamy egg yolk of the Sinatra pizza.
Pizzeria Gusto's bubbly list is designed by Banville & Jones Wine Co. Sommeliers.
404 Academy Road . 944.8786 .
www.pizzeriagusto.com
behind the label: bouchard finlayson by Andrea Eby, Sommelier (ISG), CSW
Bouchard Finlayson 2010 Blanc de Mer WO Western Cape, South Africa $22.99
Bouchard Finlayson 2010 Sauvignon Blanc WO Walker Bay, South Africa $27.99
Bouchard Finlayson 2009 Sans Barrique Chardonnay WO Walker Bay, South Africa $29.99
“Love at first taste” is how I would describe my relationship with the wines of Bouchard Finlayson. With only one sip, I was hooked. I instantly set off to find out more about this leading South African producer and made it my mission to taste as many of their wines as possible. A few months later, with my brain full of facts and my wallet a few dollars lighter, I realized this was not just a fling. I was, and still am, in love. The vineyards of Bouchard Finlayson are nestled in the hills of an idyllic valley in the wine ward of Walker Bay, near the southern-most tip of Africa. Known by the name Hemelen-Aarde (Heaven and Earth), the valley is encircled by a high ring of hills that touch the sky and block the view of everything except heaven and earth. Vines constitute only a small portion of this 125-hectare estate, with the remainder being devoted to the endangered fynbos flora unique to this part of Africa. Established in 1986, Bouchard Finlayson was originally conceived as a collaboration between South Africa’s Pinot pioneer, Peter Finlayson, and great Burgundian winemaker Paul Bouchard. Although ownership of the estate has since changed hands, Finlayson has remained the winemaker and the wines display a decidedly Burgundian influence. In fact, more than half of the vineyard land is dedicated to the finicky Pinot Noir grape. Chardonnay is also significantly planted,
Bouchard Finlayson 2008 Missionvale Chardonnay WO Walker Bay, South Africa $35.99
Bouchard Finlayson 2009 Galpin Peak Pinot Noir WO Walker Bay, South Africa $59.99
with Sauvignon Blanc and an assortment of aromatic white and Italian red varieties rounding out the portfolio. Finlayson believes great wines are made in the vineyard and these vineyards are a lesson in greatness themselves. The top-quality fruit that is produced is expertly handled in order to yield the calibre of wines attributed to the Bouchard Finlayson name. Walker Bay benefits from the influence of the nearby Atlantic Ocean, making it one of the coolest areas in the Cape. Coupled with the warm daytime sunshine, the cooling breezes provide an ideal and balanced environment for the vines. Finlayson compares winemaking to the sport of cricket, art mingled with instinct, and ultimately at the mercy of climate and weather. It is his competitive edge and passionate spirit that propel him forward each year. The international wine press continues to fall in love with the wines of Bouchard Finlayson and top-notch scores are becoming de rigeur. Bouchard Finlayson is a boutique winery in every sense of the word and production levels are no exception—we count ourselves lucky to get our hands on any of these wines! Not only is this winery making some of the best wine in South Africa, it is making some of the best wine in the world. Treat yourself to a taste and you too will be singing the praises of South Africa!
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A leopard lounges in the wild grass in Kruger National Park (Photo by Tina Jones)
Amazing, Alive:
south africa
From October 2011 to Janaury 2012, five Banville & Jones staffers travelled to South Africa to experience the culture and, of course, the wine. Gary Hewitt, Sylvia Jansen, Tina Jones, Mike Muirhead and Darren Raeside have collaborated to bring you their travel notes on the diverse aspects of exploring the Rainbow Nation.
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During our brief visits, we experienced a fascinating and vibrant South Africa. Our tours differed vastly, but we all felt safe visiting the country. We all enjoyed fabulous food and stylish wine, and we were collectively amazed by experiences that will be with us forever.
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The dust of Africa never leaves the soles of your feet. African tribal proverb
History and Colour (By Gary Hewitt) The earliest inhabitants of the south of Africa were the San, bushmen of legendary survival skills who adapted to the harsh inland regions. About a thousand years ago, their idyll was disturbed by blacks, immigrants from North Africa who, in turn, were dominated by whites, Europeans who began arriving from the Netherlands and Britain in the 17th century. A blended group of coloureds arose from the importation of slaves and labourers from the east who later intermarried. Apartheid (1948–1994), official segregation, set the colour chart. In 1994, we saw the beginnings of a shift in the national consciousness, with the open elections that saw former political prisoner Nelson Mandela become South Africa’s first black president. The old colour chart was refigured as an optimistic rainbow, a celebration of colour, ethnicity, and hope for successful integration. Other “colourful” historical reminders include the dominant Dutch colonial architecture, especially around Cape Town; wine estates such as Vergelegen and Bon Courage are impressive examples. Finally, the often treacherous ocean off the Cape of Good Hope holds other historical reminders: more than 400 shipwrecks, some of which can be explored by adventurous travellers on guided wreckdiving tours.
Top: Vibrant colours line the streets of Cape Town; Bottom: Bon Courage Estate is an excellent example of Dutch colonial architecture (Photos by Gary Hewitt)
Clockwise from top: Traditional dancers entertain in Justicia; The V & A Waterfront in Cape Town; St James Beach (Photos by Tina Jones)
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A Diverse Culture (by Sylvia Jansen) With the positive energy of a youthful nation on the way up, South Africa is rich with experiences for the visitor. Official guides are available for adventures as diverse as African drumming lessons in a township, which my group enjoyed, and diving with the sharks in Walker Bay, which Mike Jones dared to do. On our first morning in Cape Town, our guide led us through the famed Atlas Trading spice market and then out onto Wale Street in the Bo-Kaap district of the city. With Signal Hill and Table Mountain rising on either side of us like protective giants, we entered one of the brightly painted homes. A few minutes later, we were working under the direction of our host Faldela Tolker. One of my travel companions was up to his wrists in flour, kneading dough for rotis, another was chopping onions for dahl, and I was measuring aromatic spices and a top-secret ingredient for an African twist on samosas. Our lunch was a close-up experience of the people, spices, and cuisine of the unique Cape Malay quarter.
that poignantly illustrates the struggles of Apartheid. Our tour guide was a former political prisoner, who brought the experience into amazingly sharp focus. The Cuisine (By MIke Muirhead and Darren Raeside) One of our most memorable meals in South Africa was enjoyed outside,
gathered around the braai. With our hosts, Paul and Shirley Martens of Blend Imports and braai master Roelf du Preez of Bon Cap Organic Wines, we feasted on this unique South African form of barbeque. The braai is a pit with coal fire, burned down from wood; the food is placed in a closed metal rack so the entire lot can be flipped at once. Our braai experiences included boerewors
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That evening, our dinner preparations involved casually strolling on Cape Town’s stylish V & A (Victoria and Alfred) Waterfront to select a restaurant from the array of choices. Thai, Italian, Indian, Dutch-influenced Cape, and more, all offered fresh seasonal ingredients, attentive service, and fabulous wines. The Waterfront today is a working harbour destination with Victorian and ultramodern architecture, hotels, South African culture, unique local and international shopping, restaurants, and a vibrant nightlife. The Waterfront is also the meeting point for the boat ride to Robben Island, the UNESCO World Heritage Site where Nelson Mandela and other political prisoners were imprisoned during Apartheid. Visible from Table Mountain, the island is now the site of a museum
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Clockwise from top: Zebra; Young giraffe (Photos by Carol Fletcher); African elephant; Black rhino; Lionnesse (Photos by Tina Jones)
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(their version of sausages), sosatie (traditional lamb skewers) and, thanks to Roelf, the best beef tenderloin imaginable.
Africa, and offers unrivalled Big Five game viewing. The Big Five (lion, leopard, Cape buffalo, elephant, and rhinoceros) are only a few of the amazing animals, birds, insects, and plants we experienced in this place.
When we weren’t gathered around the braai, we dined Dotting the landscape around the park are numerous like kings on South African lamb, fresh crayfish (rock private game reserves. The reserves increase the lobster), and amazing beef. Eating out in South area for animals to roam, and offer an Africa will spoil the most refined diners: unbelievable variety of opportunities for the food is amazing, and just about as cheap as eating at home. While accommodations in the midst of this many restaurants are influenced by wild landscape. We were fortunate to The experience European cuisine, there is a move go to Singita in Sabi Sands, where toward creating dishes with modern of sitting within we enjoyed five days of safari! twists on traditional South African The experience of sitting within reaching distance of an fare, such at bobotie, a meatloaf reaching distance of an African lion African lion or elephant with raisins and egg, and potjiekos, a or elephant is spine-tingling. My stew named for the three-legged cast is spine-tingling. shaky pictures tell the story of my iron pot in which it is cooked. excitement! The Safari (By Tina Jones) Among South Africa’s amazing experiences, the one that stood out for me was the safari. In the northeast part of this fabulous country is Kruger National Park. The park itself is huge, almost 20,000 square kilometres (three times the size of Banff National Park). It is home to the most diverse wildlife in all of
2012_Independent_02_outl.indd 1 File Name
After the long flight from Johannesburg to Winnipeg, each of us agreed that we couldn’t wait until the day we could return to South Africa. We were excited by the wines; we embraced a culture of change; and we were each just a little changed by the dust on the soles of our feet.
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gary’s corner By Gary Hewitt, MSc, CWE, SGD, AIWS
their vines struggle to encourage fruit production, but they provide just enough of what vines need to prevent harmful suffering. In this way, growers often promote deep root growth.
roots Roots, the souls of vines, lie hidden below the surface of the land. Given years and decades of growth, vines can push their roots deep into the soil, sometimes to depths of more than 4 metres. Over time, roots become the greater part of the plant as the above-ground vine is repeatedly pruned, trimmed, and trained. Deep roots find moisture in time of drought, provide nutrients from geologically diverse soil layers, and store carbohydrates to sustain growth. In short, deep roots provide stability. The development of deep roots with vine age cannot be taken for granted. Excess food and water near the soil surface encourage lateral growth. For example, high-fertility soils, quick-release fertilizers, and excess irrigation make vines lazy and, if you’ll pardon the pun, superficial. Given the easy life, vines partake of a sunshine-induced photosynthetic orgy to grow lots of canes (stems) and leaves, but such vines neglect their fruit. Given tough times, vines put effort into maturing their fruit, as if the grapes are lifeboats carrying their seeds to better times. Quality-conscious grape growers take advantage of the vine’s tendencies. Such growers make
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It is worth noting that many wellfed vines provide well-made, yummy wines. However, they may lack a sense of “somewhereness” in that they could come from any of a number of modern growing regions. Mature vines that are dryfarmed (using no irrigation) with deep roots, on the other hand, often speak of their origins in expressions of minerality and complexity. Wine blogger Jamie Goode describes it as a “conversation between the earth and the vine, mediated by the roots, that then determines the character of the wine.” Now, let’s consider the idea of deep roots in the context of South Africa. In the viticultural context, there is definitive potential for development of deep roots. Ancient, low-fertility soils coupled with a Mediterranean climate that provides long, dry growing seasons are ideal conditions for grape growers to be “just mean enough” to their vines. In the cultural context, I had hoped to find the profound metaphor relating the significance of a grapevine’s deep roots to the current state of the South African wine industry. After all, it is enticing to expand the “roots” metaphor in the context of the African “cradle of humanity” and to expound on how South Africa’s modern wines conjure the flavours of the ages—but this doesn’t really hold true. Instead, a different but compelling metaphor emerged. Early in the 20th century, a booming wine industry that rose afresh from the devastation of phylloxera became over-stoked. Excess grapes
with no market led to the creation of the KWV co-operative, an entity that ruled the South African industry late into the century. Fixed grape prices and quotas, plus a reliable outlet for excess grapes (i.e., guaranteed funded distillation) fed excess food and water to an industry happy to produce ordinary wines for a protected market isolated by trade embargoes. Exposure to international markets with the end of Apartheid in the early 1990s revealed sick vines, out-moded wine styles, and a deficit of modern equipment and techniques. In effect, it exposed the shallowness of the broader wine industry’s roots. But this is not a sad story—some deep roots survived, literally and figuratively. Pockets of old, dryfarmed bush vines of Chenin Blanc and Syrah have been rediscovered. Long established estates, particularly in the famous Stellenbosch region, survived their isolation. The older, isolated generation of winemakers has given rise to a new generation whose roots reach across the wine world. Young winemakers have studied in Old and New World wine regions. With broadened horizons, they understand the gift to viticulture that is the Cape region, with its potential for great wines of depth and regional character. Roots are being put down—literally—in new coolclimate regions. Today’s producers understand the importance of producing wines that express environmental and, importantly for South Africa, social integrity. And, perhaps most importantly, there is a new openness and inclusiveness that permeates the industry. One hopes that this re-emerging industry is fed well enough to ensure its health, but that it has to struggle, just enough, to promote strong, deep roots.
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gluggy By Rick Watkins, CSW
Bulk vs. Boutique
where are your dollars going? Do you ever wonder why some wines cost $10 and some cost $500? When I am working in the Banville & Jones Fine Wines Cave, customers will often come in to check out our range of high-end wines. When they get to the Spain section, they usually gasp when they see that a wine from Pingus Winery is $1,299 a bottle. Following their initial stunned silence, they ask: “Why does it cost that much?” There are several reasons for the discrepancy between the prices of Two Buck Chuck, the United States wine market’s reigning deal at $2.99, and a 1969 Domaine de la RomanéeConti Richebourg Grand Cru that recently sold at auction for over $9,000. Although high quality is arguably the most important factor affecting a wine’s price, a wine must be of high quality every vintage to build consumer confidence. This is why some top wine properties will only release their top cuvées in exceptional vintages. This practice adds to the cost and scarcity of the wine. The law of supply-and-demand also comes into play. For example, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti produces only 1,000 cases of its Richebourg Grand Cru and there are thousands of people who want a bottle, whatever the price.
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The region where the wine is produced is also important. If a region has been producing amazing wine for a long period of time, they can charge more for their product than a new, emerging wine region that has yet to set its standards. Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, Tuscany, Napa Valley, and Rioja are wine regions where a high standard of quality has been maintained for a long time. Based on those established reputations, they can place high prices on their wines. The score that a wine receives can cause the price to jump exponentially as well. If Wine Spectator magazine or Robert Parker give a wine 100 points (a perfect score), wine buyers will clamour to purchase it at any price just to be able to taste perfection in a bottle. Ultimately, the details of the production process contribute most significantly to a wine’s final price tag. How a $500 bottle of boutique wine is made differs a great deal from how a $10.00 bottle of bulk wine is made. The following chart shows the differences in how the two wines go from berries to bottle.
BULK WINE PRODUCTION
BOUTIQUE WINE PRODUCTION
Many bulk producers buy grapes or finished wine from growers and just bottle the final product. Vines are usually planted on flat, very fertile land where it is easy to grow high-quantity, low-quality grapes. Average production of grapes is 10–15 tonnes per acre.
land
[ ]
Vineyard land is often sold at a steep premium. Vineyards in Napa Valley can cost upwards of $300,000 per acre.
[vineyards]
Vines are usually grown on hillsides where soils and viticulture are more difficult, but result in smaller crops of a higher quality of fruit. Production can be as low as a half kilo of grapes per acre.
water
High-quality producers that dry-farm (without irrigation) grow smaller amounts of high-quality berries.
[vine age]
Old vines (min. 20 years) produce smaller quantities of fruit, but it is of higher quality.
[viticulture]
Vines are pruned to small bunches of grapes that are thinned throughout the season. Fewer grapes per vine means more flavour per grape.
[
Irrigation allows large quantities of grapes to grow at little cost. Young vines produce lower quality fruit than older vines. Minimal pruning results in a high volume of grapes per vine. Grapes produced in high yield tend to have more diluted juices.
]
chemicals
]
Producers use few chemicals or none at all, leading to the possibility of grape loss through mould, mildew, or insect damage.
harvesting
]
Hand picking the fruit is very slow and labour intensive, but allows for only the ripe, undamaged fruit to be picked.
Producers use pesticides, fungicides, and herbicides liberally to assure a high volume of grape production.
[
Machine harvesting is very quick, but can damage the fruit, and it doesn’t discern between ripe and unripe: all grapes are harvested.
[
sorting
All fruit is hand sorted. All damaged or unripe fruit, twigs, and insects are discarded and only the best fruit is used.
[fermentation]
Longer natural fermentations by indigenous yeasts are often done on a small scale and may involve oak fermenters or even oak barrels.
Pressing every last drop of juice out of the grapes results in lots of juice and some bitter and harsh tastes.
[press]
A very gentle press is used, and often only the “free run” juice, caused by the weight of the grapes pressing down on the ones below, is used.
Wine is usually aged in stainless steel, which has a one-time cost, and can last for decades.
[
Wine can be aged in oak barrels, which run $1,800 apiece and must be replaced every 3 years.
There is no sorting of harvested fruit—all fruit, leaves, and twigs are used. Aggressive clarification of musts, enrichment with sugars and nutrients, and inoculation with strong yeast strains lead to rapid fermentation.
Wine is bottled as soon as possible.
Cheap or synthetic corks are used. Wines are shipped in cardboard boxes of 12.
[
]
]
aging
[bottling] [closure] [packaging]
Wine can be aged for 2–5 years before it is bottled. Top quality cork is used, which is 3–5 times more expensive than cheap cork. Wines are shipped in wooden cases of six instead of 12.
www.banvilleandjones.com 33
trending By Saralyn Mehta, Sommelier (ISG), CSW Adi Badenhorst grows the grapes for his Rhône blend in this Coastal Region vineyard. (Photo by Paul Martens)
outside the box: nature vs. nurture When my son Max was small, people would comment, “There is no mistaking whose kid he is—he looks just like you!” It is true that he’s my “mini me.” But he doesn’t just look like me; he is like me inside and out. Wow, the power of DNA. The interesting thing is, I don’t look like anyone in my family. All my life, I have known that I was adopted. It was never a secret, it was just a fact. I never felt that my parents loved me differently than their bio-babies, but I always knew that raising me came with different challenges for my parents than raising my brother and sisters. I suspect it was like being handed a mystery seed and believing that, with enough love, care, and attention, they could grow me into a beautiful, whole human being. If you grow something (or in my case, someone) outside its box, can it be all that it was meant to be? In an effort to answer that question, I began to experiment with wines made from varieties that were not indigenous to the regions in which they were being grown. That experiment turned me into quite the wine groupie for the likes of Bokisch, Badenhorst, Tablas Creek, Moffett, Hendry, and Coriole. I am completely in love with winemakers that are committed to what they believe in, who have the guts to say, “This isn’t what you’re used to, but I'm going to make it anyway because I believe in it!” My love affair with “outside the box” wines started with Esprit de Beaucastel, made by Tablas Creek.
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This Paso Robles, California winery is a joint venture between famed Chateauneuf-du-Pape producer Château Beaucastel and American vintner Robert Haas. Cuttings taken from the vines at Château Beaucastel in the Rhône, France were planted in California with the belief that they would thrive. With great care and experimentation, the vines produced award-winning Rhône blends, far from where anyone expected them to thrive. After experiencing the wines of Tablas Creek, I was inspired to try more of these fish-out-of-water wines. It wasn’t long before I discovered the whole line of Bokisch wines. Markus Bokisch began his career by working in the California wine industry for heavyweight producer Joseph Phelps. After gaining some experience, he followed his heart (and his wife) to Spain, where their love affair with Spanish varieties was born. With great passion and determination, they returned to California and created a beautiful homage to Spain with a winery that uses only Spanish varieties. From bold reds made from Tempranillo and Graciano to cool whites made from Albariño and— my favourite — Garnacha Blanca, these wines are exceptional examples of what can be done with passionate creative thought. There are many wineries experimenting with varieties that are not native to their soils, with amazing results. South Africa’s Adi Badenhorst has an amazing Rhône blend called A.A. Badenhorst; Australia’s Coriole
Vineyards makes a stunning Sangiovese; Napa producers Moffett and Hendry make superb Bordeaux blends. These transplanted varieties deserve to be appreciated for their innovation and loved for their quality! People often debate the question of “nature versus nurture.” I would argue that it isn’t one or the other that prevail, but rather a case of nature being tended by nurture that creates the best things in life. Just ask my mom.
Outside the box, inside your cellar Coriole 2010 Sangiovese McLaren Vale, Australia $22.99 A medium-bodied wine showing red fruit, dark cherry, earth and mineral notes. With a little time to breathe, plum and raspberry come shining through. Bokisch 2009 Tempranillo Lodi, USA $26.99 Black currant and raspberry flavours come together with a hint of clove and spice. A perfect blend of varietal character and bold California winemaking. Bokisch 2011 Garnacha Blanca Lodi, USA $19.99 A full-bodied creamy white with luscious notes of honeydew, kiwi, and apricots. If I were stranded on an island and could take only one wine, this would be it. Moffett 2008 Screenplay Napa Valley, USA $66.99 This big bold blend explodes with notes of dark juicy blackberry, sweet cherries and currents, all layered together with a pop of creamy oak and mocha. Tablas Creek 2009 Esprit De Beaucastel Red Paso Robles, USA $72.99 Bold, lush fruit with brambly spice and velvety tannins are the hallmark of this blend. Approachable now in spite of its youth, this wine will be cellar-worthy for a long time to come.
Saralyn and Max
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On the road to the historic Klein Constantia Estate (Photo by Paul Martens)
Diversity and Innovation: Simply South Africa
By Mike Muirhead, Sommelier (ISG, CMS), CSW South Africa is a country defined by its diversity. Flying in from Canada, my first impression of the country was the West Coast, along the Atlantic Ocean. We saw kilometres of desert cut by sharply rising ranges that gradually turned into green pastures as we got closer to the Cape. On the final approach into Cape Town, we flew in over mansions, each with its own backyard pool; these turned to single-dwelling houses, and then, finally, a shanty town of corrugated metal and wood dwellings built one on top of the other. This diversity characterized the two weeks that my wine-buying partner, Gary Hewitt, and I spent in South Africa, offering us insights into what makes the wines of South Africa unique on the global market, as well as unique from region to region. Our two-week journey took us to six major wine regions and multiple sub-regions, each with its own distinct climate, soil, grapes, and people. The trip gave us a terrific overview of both the traditional and the up-andcoming wine regions in South Africa.
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The Regions
In your lifetime, there is an excellent chance you’ve had some type of fruit from Elgin Valley. It is one of those picturesque locales where everything grows. It is known for world-famous Elgin Granny Smith and Red Vintners Syrah is Delicious apples, pears, elegant with lots of zip fresh-cut flowers, and and character (coming wonderful cool-climate exclusively to Banville grapes. Elgin specializes in Sauvignon Blanc and & Jones in August Syrah, with more Pinot 2012). Noir being planted every year. Its high-altitude sites produce refined and delicate flavours. Only an hour outside of Cape Town, this region is a perfect destination for fresh food lovers. The Swartland is one of the hottest wine regions in South Africa right now. Do we have to On our trip alone, we choose just one? met three producers Lamershoek is a new whose wines we had producer coming to the to bring back for Banstore, and Mullineux and ville & Jones Wine Co. customers. The A.A. Badenhorst were young winemaking two of our trip culture of the Swartland favourites. is producing the next
generation of South African wines (as you will read in our interview with Platter Guide’s Philip Van Zyl on page 50). The wines come from a sun-baked area with very arid rolling hills. Blends are king here, with new styles emerging that feature Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvèdre (Rhône varietals). These exciting (and excitable!) new winemakers have also embraced one of South Africa’s key varietals—Chenin Blanc—producing many styles worthy of making Loire winemakers jealous. Walker Bay is situated around the beautiful coastal town of Hermanus, and is home to such luminaries as Peter Finlayson of Bouchard Finlayson and some of the most sought-after land for new plantings. Though Galpin Peak Walker Bay is a rather Pinot Noir will give large region, smaller you an idea of why wineries like those that Bouchard Finlayson is the snake up through the benchmark for South Hemel-en-Aard (Heaven and Earth) Valley subAfrican Pinot. region are known for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and South Africa’s current darling, Sauvignon Blanc. Take the Hermanus Wine Route (R320) and enjoy an entire day tasting some of the best wines the region has to offer.
Left: Bon Cap Organic vineyard in Walker Bay (Photo by Mike Muirhead); Right: Thelema Mountain Vineyards, Stellenbosch (Photo by Carol Fletcher) www.banvilleandjones.com 39
Robertson is one of the most beautiful valleys in South Africa. Its flower-lined highways weave in and out of everything from giant producers to tiny family-run operations—the valley is bursting with every style Bon Courage’s of wine you can imagine! Rosé Cap Classique is In one day, we took in arriving this summer: the epic Arabella, with great bubbles at a capacity of 1.6 million a great price. litres; the boutique Bon Cap, an organic vineyard whose family character is stamped all over the wine; and a few wineries in between those extremes! The people of Robertson are welcoming, and the styles of wines range from Cap Classique (sparkling) to rich, spicy Shiraz. Stellenbosch is yet another example of the diversity within South Africa's wine regions. We travelled from wineries cradled on the valley floor to those that ran right up the side of a mountain. Stellenbosch is so close to Cape Town that it seems as though the vineyards are in the suburbs themselves! In Stellenbosch, Shiraz and Cabernet reign; however, it is worth noting that the first-ever sparkling wine produced on the Cape, Kaapse Vonkel (Cape Sparkler) is produced at
Simonsig’s beautiful estate, where modern technology meets family values in the winemaking process. No wine pilgrimage would be complete without visiting the roots of the wine industry in South Africa. Klein Constantia is snuggled in the picturesque suburb of Constantia on the backside of Table Mountain. The winery dates back to Simonsig the early 1700s and offers great value their sweet Vin de for price at any quality Constance was range; Thelema’s The Mint the favourite of Cabernet was the most distinct both Napoleon wine of the trip; and the unique and Frederick wines of Post House are worth the Great. mentioning, as we have never
At every turn seen such a hands-on in South Africa, operation (literally, only there are more wintwo hands). eries popping up— each with something innovative to offer the wine world. What we found unique about South Africa was South Africa itself. Neither New World nor Old World, it is simply South African in style, and that is as diverse as it gets.
The regions of South Africa (Courtesy of Wines of South Africa)
South Africa’s Own: Pinotage Every country has a grape to call its own. Argentina has Malbec; Australia has Shiraz; Italy has Sangiovese; and South Africa—well it has Pinotage. A cross of two French grapes— Pinot Noir and Cinsault (called Hermitage in Rhône)—it was created to blend the luxurious qualities of Pinot Noir with the heartiness of Cinsault. The result is polarizing, to say the least. Pinotage is a love-it-or-hate-it grape; many of the first Pinotages to arrive in our market were bitter and tasting of band-aid. Winemakers have learned how to harness Pinotage, however, and a wide range of styles and qualities are available. It is also used quite often in “Cape Blends,” where it makes up 30–70 per cent of the blend. Our favourites: Bon Cap 2010 The Ruins Pinotage WO Robertson, South Africa – $14.99 Juicy blueberry fruit and chunky tannins, with a medium finish that is clean and warming. Try it with roasted pork loin with a berry glaze. Post House 2009 Blueish Black WO Stellenbosch, South Africa – $20.99 This Shiraz, Pinotage, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot blend is deep in colour and bursting with mullberries, currants, pepper and spice, with enough tannins to hold up to your next roast. Photo by Mike Muirhead
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Photos by Paul Martens
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KITCHEN South Africa’s food culture is growing as quickly as its wine industry. Reflecting the cultural diversity of South Africa, the cuisine draws upon its indigenous and settler roots (including British, Dutch, and Indian) to form a rainbow cuisine that is unique and just starting to define itself in contemporary terms. As Sommeliers Mike Muirhead, Gary Hewitt, and Darren Raeside found out, the best way to taste a region’s wine is to pair it with ingredients that come from the same soil. Banville & Jones’s wine experts teamed up with Chef Mynhardt Joubert of Bar Bar Black Sheep in Riebeek Kasteel, in the Swartland, South Africa, to pair some of the region's best wines with the chef’s innovative South African fare. The experience was photographed by Paul Martens of Blend Imports. Join Chef Louise Briskie-de Beer of Cafe Savour and the Banville & Jones wine experts on September 13 for Test Kitchen Encore (details on page 54).
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First course:
stuffed zucchini flowers and baked lemons
Photos by Paul Martens
Stuffed Zucchini Flowers 12 fresh zucchini flowers Vegetable oil for deep frying Stuffing 250 g ricotta cheese 1 tsp fresh mint, chopped 1 tsp ground nutmeg 1 red chili pepper, chopped Salt and pepper Batter 2 cups ice cold soda water 1 cup flour 1 egg, beaten Garnish ½ lemon ½ cup parmesan, grated ½ cup fresh basil, shredded
THE WINE: A.A. Badenhorst 2011 Secateurs Chenin Blanc WO Swartland, South Africa – $17.99 Gary: This dish is rich and complex. The freshness of this wine has a great synergy: the acidity livens up that richness and freshens your palate. The lemon rind picks up those lemon notes in the wine and makes the Chenin a better wine.
Mix all the ingredients for the stuffing together to form a thick, creamy paste. Divide the mixture into twelve small sausage shapes. Pull a seam open on the flower, gently manoeuvre the stuffing in and stick the petals together, encasing the stuffing in the flower.
Baked Lemons
Add soda water to the egg and then gently stir in the flour. Make sure that the mixture is the consistency of thick cream. Dip the flowers into the batter and lower into the hot oil. Brown each side about 2 minutes, drain on paper towel and warm in a 400°F oven for 5 minutes to absorb most of the oil. Garnish the flowers with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice, grated parmesan, some shredded fresh basil, and salt and pepper.
Slice the top and bottom off the lemons and scrape out the flesh. Roast the lemons in a 425°F oven for 10 minutes to get rid of any bitterness from the peel. After you cool the lemons, cover the base of the lemon from inside with two fresh basil leaves. Stuff the lemon with a mixture of the artichokes, crushed tomatoes, and anchovies. Cover the top with goat cheese and bake for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the cheese turns golden. Drizzle with olive oil, salt and pepper, and serve with toast points.
Darren: The inherent sweetness of the wine handles the jolt of citrus well. There is a series of tidal waves—the wine flows with the food like an undertow working with the current. I thought the fresh, pungent basil would give this Chenin a run for its money and artichokes are bonafide wine-killers, so kudos to this wine. It’s like it wore a flack jacket to this meal. It is bulletproof.
through the ricotta cheese with just the right amount of acidity, and also ties into the fresh lemon juice on the zucchini. Once you get to the baked lemons, the lemon that infuses the dish is a perfect match to the Chenin. This wine has a real connection with food.
Mike: The lemon in the wine cuts
8 medium lemons 200 g marinated artichoke hearts 200 g crushed plum tomatoes 100 g white anchovies Fresh basil leaves, chopped 8 oz goat cheese Olive oil Salt and pepper
Also try: Luis Felipe Edwards 2010 Gran Reserva Sauvignon Blanc, Chile – $17.99 or Provenza 2010 Tenuta Maiolo Lugana DOC Lombardy, Italy – $19.99
www.banvilleandjones.com 45
second course:
fish cakes with sweet potato and pineapple sambal
Fish Cakes 1 kg wild salmon 1 cup brown bread crumbs 2 tbsp garam masala ½ cup chopped parsley 1 egg, whisked 1 small white onion, chopped Salt and pepper Mix all ingredients together and form into 10 to 12 patties. Pack in layers and refrigerate for an hour to firm up. Pan fry in olive oil until
THE WINE: Mullineux 2010 Family White WO Swartland, South Africa – $31.99 Gary: This wine is classically styled for food, with fresh, long acidity and fruit concentration. The fish cake is extraordinary—it has a light, airy texture. The weight of the wine is matched perfectly with the the weight of the dish.
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both sides are golden brown and the patty is cooked through.
Caramelized Sweet Potato 1 kg sweet potato, sliced 200 g butter, cut into wedges 2 tbsp grated fresh ginger 3 cinnamon sticks 1 cup soft brown sugar Preheat the oven to 425°F. Pack the sweet potatoes in layers in an oven dish with the wedges of butter
Darren: The flavours in the fish cake dish brings out a richness in the wine—a sweeter honey tone. The pairing makes each component richer and more complex—both the wine and the food. In this pairing, the wine is the belle of the ball. Mike: This is a luscious, wellbalanced wine with a lot of character. It has great texture and mouth feel—a very easy wine to
between the layers. Sprinkle with grated ginger and cover with brown sugar. Cover with tin foil and bake for about 40 minutes; bake for another 20 minutes uncovered. For the pineapple sambal, mix the following together and refrigerate for one hour: 1 large pineapple, diced 1 small red onion, chopped 1 tbsp fresh cilantro, chopped 2 tbsp sugar
like without having to overthink it. The complexity of the Mullineux pairs with the complexity of the fish cake and sweet potatoes in a perfect marriage of flavours. This is a heavenly match. Also try: M. Chapoutier 2009 Belleruche Blanc Côtes du Rhône AOC, France – $16.99 or Château Bouscassé 2008 Jardins Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh, France – $22.99
THIRD COURSE:
lamb burger with avocado salsa and tomato chutney 1 kg ground lamb 1 tbsp parsley, chopped 1 large red onion, chopped 1 egg 2 tbsp tomato paste 2 tsp ground coriander 1 tsp salt 1 tsp pepper ½ cup carrot, finely grated 1 tbsp olive oil Mix all ingredients (except olive oil) together and form 4 large patties. Heat the olive oil in a pan on high
heat and sear both sides of the patty. Finish the burgers in a 425°F oven until baked through, about 5 to 6 minutes. For the avocado salsa, mix the following and refrigerate for 30 minutes: 2 large ripe avocadoes, coarsely mashed with a fork Juice from one lime 1 small red onion, chopped Salt and pepper
THE WINE: Lammershoek 2010 LAM Syrah WO Swartland, South Africa – $21.99 Gary: I imagine quaffing this on the dock at sunset. The intense blackberry and super-smooth tannins mingle with this dish, and pull out the tomato paste notes in the wine. There is a freshness to the LAM that initially contrasts with the dish before co-mingling with it. Darren: With the bacon and avocado, there is a real savoury quality to this burger. The fresh mix of berry and citrus in the wine do not overwhelm the lamb; rather, they tie everything together and freshen the palate. Mike: This red wine should be at every BBQ this summer. It is so easy to drink, with food or on its own. This burger is bringing out a citrus note in the wine that cleanses the palate with each sip. In return, the wine is really accentuating the wonderful fresh cilantro in the burger. A.A. Badenhorst 2008 Red Blend WO Swartland, South Africa – $37.99 Gary: This is more complex and grounded than the LAM, and not nearly as fruit-dominated. Like most Swartland wines, it has a great balance of medium
For the tomato chutney, cook the following ingredients in a sauce pan for 45 minutes on medium heat, until the juice starts to thicken: 1 kg ripe plum tomatoes, chopped 1 cup white wine vinegar 200 g sugar 1 red chili, chopped 1 tbsp fresh cilantro, chopped Suggested toppings: cream cheese, bacon, baby lettuce, cucumber, red cabbage, roasted red peppers, fresh basil, Italian parsley
alcohol and acidity. The herbaceousness of this wine resonates in the flavours of the dish and the finish goes on and on. Darren: There is a primal feast on the palate: this wine has a real manliness to it. The blackberry and minerality are coming through on the mid-palate, as is typical of Swartland reds. The herbs in the burger bring out a licorice quality in the wine that isn’t there on its own. Mike: This wine starts out with an herbal quality and the core of juicy fruit keeps getting meatier the more it opens up. This wine just keeps evolving on the palate. The firmer tannins work well with the lamb. You don’t need the food to balance this wine, but they do enhance one another. Also try: The Lackey 2011 BBQ Blend South Australia – $16.99 or Burge Family Wines 2008 Garnacha Barossa Valley, Australia – $39.99
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the next generation:
Photo by Paul Martens
philip van zyl’s south africa
Interview by Gary Hewitt, MSc, CWE, SGD, AIWS and Mike Muirhead, Sommelier (ISG, CMS), CSW In the Southern Cape, Platter’s South African Wines, an annual guide to cellars and vineyards, is everywhere—in every store, winery, or tourist centre. Platter’s ratings are part of the language, and everyone in the wine trade knows the current “five star” wines. The guide, first published by John and Erica Platter in 1980, quickly attracted an elite panel of tasters and, latterly, an intrepid young editor named Philip van Zyl. During Philip’s tenure, the South African wine industry has evolved enormously and he has seen it all. When we looked for someone with a global view of the South African wine industry, we were told “Philip van Zyl is your man.” Mike Muirhead and Gary Hewitt enjoyed a morning coffee with Philip at an outdoor café near his home in Somerset West, a thriving community east of Cape Town and on the southern edge of the famous Stellenbosch wine region. Gary Hewitt [GH] I haven’t been in a wine region where a single publication is as ubiquitous throughout the industry as is Platter’s South African Wines. This is a big compliment to the quality of the guide, but it carries a big responsibility to the industry as well. How do you see this responsibility in terms of the success of the wine guide?
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Philip van Zyl [PVZ] Well, that’s a complicated question. I know that everybody on the team has accepted that this is the case, and we do take our responsibility to the consumer—and to the producers—very seriously. But there is some criticism of the tasting approach. John and Erica Platter said right from the start that they were journalists first, so they wanted to convey the backstory
and character of the wine; the star rating was incidental. We have never lost sight of the fact that the original intention was, first, to try and explain to the reader what the winemaker’s intention is, and, second, to give our own rating based on that intention and all the other things that go with it. So it’s trying to interpret the wine to the reader, rather than being judgmental about it. Unfortunately, in this day and age, there’s a strong focus on ratings, and getting the ratings right—and if you don’t get it right, there are major problems! But I really do feel that what we’re trying to do is convey the dynamism and variety and enthusiasm, and all the good things that are happening in the industry, rather than just the ratings. GH The Platter’s wine guide has grown enormously since its first publication in 1980; it’s a much thicker book. What is the current scope of the project?
very quick to avail themselves of opportunities to go work and study overseas, and expose themselves to what else was happening in the wine world. Their parents did not have this opportunity. So suddenly, from 1990 until democracy in 1994, we had an explosion of contact with the outside world. That period was critical. And in fact, there’s another generational change happening right now. So that’s going to be phase two: post-democracy— the next twenty years—and it’s going to be even more exciting, because they’ve already assimilated the lessons from the outside world. MM We’ve sensed this “generational shift” in our travels. Who do you see as the people who are really pushing the boundaries?
PVZ I think Peter-Allan Finlayson [of Crystallum Wines] is a good example. His dad [Peter Finlayson] is wine industry royalty in South Africa, and he’s making wine with similar varieties, like Chardonnay, Especially and doing an awesome job.
PVZ We don’t get to taste all of the wines, because they’re not all submitted; they’re for the smaller not all ready at a given time. As a rule, we don’t re-taste vintages that we winemakers, the way tasted last time that are still available in stores, much as we’d like to. But forward is to use whatever potentially, in theory, we could end tools you need to communicate up tasting over 7,000 wines! How many have you tasted in your past a story; go back to your basic two weeks of travels?
philosophy, your family
MM We’ve heard from winemakers that South Africa, as a unified industry, needs to be on the world stage. Is South Africa at the point where they can focus on regionality? Or do you think it should still be, “Let’s promote South Africa”?
PVZ I think that, as a country, we need to have very, very clear and infectious positioning. I think that’s very important, story. but I also think there needs to be a regional PVZ Well, that’s pretty good! emphasis where it is relevant. Most regions are really quite patriotic and would like to come under that GH What would you say makes South African wines general South African brand. unique in the wine world? MM How beneficial is the Wine of Origin (WO) system PVZ South African wines have quite a distinctive style, for indicating to consumers what they are getting? and quite a distinctive flavour profile that is somewhere between the Old World and the New World. There is PVZ That is a very good question because, on the increasing experimentation—a kind of joyful upwelling one hand, the WO system functions as a guarantee of of enthusiasm—about traditional varieties like Clairette certain things being in place and being monitored. From Blanche or Cinsault. They are being revived and vinified that point of view, it’s a good thing for the consumer. in a serious way to bring out their flavour profiles, If the wine is certified “Stellenbosch” they know that whereas before they would have been used as blending the grapes are from Stellenbosch. But the huge diversity components in a very minor way. That link between in styles within regions, when compared to the Old the present and past is exciting and hopefully getting World, means that you cannot necessarily recognize the translated. Because so many of the wineries are familystyle of the area. So it would be quite difficult, even for owned, there’s a lot of authenticity—people are trying seasoned palates to recognize the particular character their very best to select the best vineyards or best sites, in a particular variety—in Stellenbosch, for example. and to bring out the character of the site in the most At this stage, the regional qualities are quite subtle still. authentic way possible. There are the beginnings of differentiation, but it’s not as terribly overt as it is in some Old World regions. GH We’ve noticed over the last few years an increasing purity in South African wines. And now, on this trip, GH How do you see South Africa going forward? we’ve noticed increasing complexity and refinement. Is PVZ Especially for the smaller winemakers, the way forward this a correct perception, and when did this shift happen? is to use whatever tools you need to communicate a story; PVZ My feeling is that the transition to democracy— go back to your basic philosophy, your family history, find from the bad old days to the good new days—coincided out the story you want to tell, and communicate that in with a generation change. And the new generation was a coherent and consistent way to your target markets. Mike Muirhead [MM] We’ve tasted about 300 wines in the time we’ve been here.
history, find out the
www.banvilleandjones.com 51
Peter Finlayson, of Bouchard Finlayson, with his winemaker Chris Albrecht (foreground) (Photo by Gary Hewitt)
When you connect with people, you sell to the people who connect back to you, who can understand your philosophy and what you’re about. And that’s a long-term relationship; it’s got length, it’s got legs; there’s loyalty. GH We have been dining like kings here in South Africa. The food has been amazing: the fresh ingredients and the level of culinary expertise have been terrific. What is your opinion on the evolution of the South African wine and food scene? PVZ The culinary scene in Stellenbosch was almost nonexistent when I moved here in 1995; it was all traditional “Mum and Pop” kind of set-ups, or directly targeted at the tourism industry. So you had traditional dishes, but not particularly well-prepared, well-presented, or wellserved. Since then, it’s become incredibly sophisticated and comprehensive, in a really, really short space of time. GH Which do you see as the emerging regions now and for the next few years? PVZ In the Swartland, there is a lot of focus and there
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are a lot of passionate people—either making wine in the region or sourcing from the region. Southern Cape is growing massively and quickly, and they have a very conducive climate, so they’ll certainly do good things. And then going further along the eastern coast, we’re getting small wineries establishing vineyards and emerging there. MM How are the larger organizations like Distell and KWV adapting, based on the new South African winemaking style? PVZ I think there is a need for large corporations such as KWV and Distell to pave the way into markets or give some kind of impetus or momentum. So they’re very important, and I think they’ve realized that they need to up their game in terms of vinification, quality standards, and making the right style for the consumer. Surely that can only be a good thing—if the “big guys” are upping their game, then everybody benefits and gets inspired by that. KWV is definitely listening to somebody out there—their Grenache Blanc, which is rated 5 stars in the 2012 guide,
PVZ That’s an excellent question, and I will answer that in my usual roundabout way. Some commentators have said to us, “Why don’t you take a stand and only give the highest ratings to a particular style?”—referring to an Old World style or New World style. They want us to take GH Coming back to the South African wine styles, we’ve a stand and say, "South Africa needs to go Old World or noticed that the wines seem to be going for a fresher style New World." And I’m thinking to myself, why would we of acidity. In the case of the Swartland, they’re want to do that? Surely what we should be doing doing some multi-grape blends, producing is applying universal quality criteria to wines real complexity, rather than depending and trying to explain the character of the on winemaking techniques to build the wine to the reader. We need to be applying They want wine. Do you see this as a trend that universal quality standards and saying, us to take a stand and will continue developing in South “This wine is a New World style, but Africa? is it good in its style?” or “This wine say, "South Africa needs to is an Old World style, and how good PVZ Yes, and I think that, to balance go Old World or New World." it is of its style?” So we dismissed this the sun-drenched style, freshness is option of going for one or the other And I’m thinking to myself, certainly a major focus. There is a out-of-hand. We try and accommodate ripeness, but also a fresh component why would we want all styles, but apply universal criteria. that makes the wines compatible to do that? with food, or attractive by the glass. There are 5-star wines that are produced Winemakers have definitely realized that in a New World style, and others that are that is crucial, and they’ve improved on it, less so. Therefore, I think it’s quite difficult to but increasingly through viticultural practices, make a wine to a “Platter” style. And, I don’t want as opposed to vinification. to overstate this, but I’m quite proud of our position because I think that consumers’ tastes are so different, MM Do you find that there are people trying to make and the book is addressing a global market. Surely you wines in a style that would give them good ratings in the can’t just accept or champion one particular style; you Platter’s wine guide? have to recognize quality across the board. is from their Mentors range. Wines in this range are specifically experimental vinifications from experimental vineyards. That they actually have a formal range that’s dedicated to experimentation, is, I think, pretty cool.
Innovation, technology, style
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Wine & Food
Wine & Sides
Banville & Jones invites you to join us for a new series of wine and food pairing! Our talented Sommeliers work with Winnipeg’s most talented chefs to create the ultimate pairing experience. Cost: $69.99
Wine and food have a language all their own. Our new event, Wine & Sides, pairs wines with small plates so we can explore how food changes wine, and vice versa, through an array of flavour pairings. Cost: $39.99
July 5: Amici Restaurant August 10: Arkadash Bistro and Lounge August 24: Bistro 1800 at Hilton Suites September 14: All Seasons Catering September 23: Peasant Cookery October 18: Pizzeria Gusto October 21: Bistro 7 ¼ October 27: Terrace 55
Flight Night
banville & jones
wine & food
events schedule June through November 2012
Have our Sommeliers at your beck and call to explain the whats, wheres and whys of wine! Join our Flight Night club every other Thursday, starting July 12, 2012. Each night, from 6–8 pm, Banville & Jones Sommeliers will present you with 6 amazing wines. What a perfect solution for a thirsty Thursday night! Cost: $25 for drop in or buy 5 nights for $125 and receive your sixth night free. July 12: Thirst-quenchers July 26: Super summer whites August 9: Trending in 2012 August 23: Top 6 wines under $20 September 6: Eco-friendly wines September 20: Almost famous: Wines on the cusp of greatness October 11: Built for food October 25: Malbec Mania November 8: Wines with character
July 13 July 25 August 29 September 28
Cooking Classes Learn from the best! Banville & Jones Sommeliers team up with Winnipeg’s premier chefs to share recipes and wine pairings. Cost: $89.99 per person August 15: BBQ with Urban Prairie Cuisine October 4: Elements
Test Kitchen Encore Chef Louise Briskie-de Beer of Cafe Savour shares a trio of South African dishes with regional wine pairings by the Banville wine experts. See the recipes and tasting notes for a teaser on page 44. Cost: $89.99 September 13
Luxury Tasting Taste the luxury when our Sommeliers open the doors to our specialties cabinets to explore some of Banville & Jones’s exclusive treasures. Cost: $99.00 September 21 October 20
To reserve a space or book a private wine tasting event, call 948-WINE. • • • •
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Tickets for events are non-refundable, but are exchangeable 14 days prior to the event. Events begin at 7 pm unless otherwise noted. Check www.banvilleandjones.com for updates and information on event themes and dates. All prices subject to GST.
“ Red River College’s Culinary Arts program gives you the basic starting skills you need to succeed. From there, you can take those skills and go in any direction you want.” Adam Donnelly Culinary Arts, 2005 Head Chef and Co-Owner, Segovia Tapas Bar & Restaurant
Red River College is committed to the next generation of culinary leaders. In January 2013, we’ll open the doors to the Paterson GlobalFoods Institute,
a state-of-the-art training facility that will allow us to contribute to Manitoba’s economic growth by increasing the number of skilled graduates working in the culinary and hospitality arts.
rrc.ca/culinary
www.banvilleandjones.com 55
banville & jones
wine institute
Gary Hewitt receiving his Diploma in Wines and Spirits from Yvonne May, Wine Australia Director for UK, Ireland and Europe (L) and Jancis Robinson, OBE (Order of the British Empire), MW (Master of Wine), Honorary WSET President (R)
Gary Hewitt Among World’s Finest! Gary Hewitt, Senior Wine Educator of Banville & Jones Wine Institute, has graduated with the Wine and Spirits Education Trust® (WSET®) diploma as the winner of a scholarship for top achievement in wine studies. Gary graduated in January 2012 with the prestigious Diploma in Wines and Spirits from the London, Englandbased Wine and Spirits Education Trust® (WSET®). He is one of the top five diploma graduates who received the Wines of Australia Scholarship, an expense-paid study trip to Australia for the five highest performing international graduates from mainland Europe, Canada, the United States, Ireland, and Asia-Pacific. The scholarship winners are selected for high standing in a graduating class of more than 300 people from around the globe. Gary has been a lead staff member since 1999, and is senior buyer for Banville & Jones Wine Co., Sommelier instructor (International Sommelier Guild), Certified Wine Educator (Society of Wine Educators) and our lead in developing the WSET® courses. The diploma means an opportunity to develop the Wine Institute’s courses even further. The WSET Diploma in Wines and Spirits is recognized worldwide as a premium all-round wine and spirit qualification. Students must develop a high level of knowledge of the business and trade of wines and spirits, and pass rigorous tasting and theory exams in order to qualify. ®
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The ability to offer WSET® programs means that students of wine in Manitoba have several options for study. The Banville & Jones Wine Institute offers: • The highly successful International Sommelier Guild, a program that culminates in the prestigious Sommelier Diploma, an internationally recognized standard in the hospitality industry. • The WSET® programs, which provide increasing focus on areas that relate more specifically to the wine trade, in addition to solid grounding in wine styles, technical knowledge, and theory. Importers, distributors, marketers, and wine professionals throughout the world strive to attain the WSET® Diploma. Banville & Jones offers WSET® programs at Red River College, through Continuing Studies and Distance Education. With the launch of the Paterson GlobalFoods Institute in downtown Winnipeg, the programs will see a new level of exposure and excitement. “Wine knowledge is extremely valuable in today’s market,” explains Tina Jones, Proprietor of Banville & Jones. “We are fortunate in Manitoba, and in Canada, to have someone of Gary’s calibre leading our wine education programs.” Stephanie Forsyth, President of Red River College, reinforces Tina’s comments: “It is great to see education valued as much as Tina Jones and her staff value education, and we are happy that we have Banville & Jones as a resource to the College.”
WINE APPRECIATION: BASICS PROGRAMS Wine Basics, Level 1
Beyond Basics, Level 2
September 19 & 26 (Wednesdays) Cost: $75.00, plus GST
October 3, 10, 17 & 24 (Wednesdays) Cost: $75.00, plus GST
Register for Basics courses by calling Banville & Jones at 948-WINE (9463) or inquire at wine@banvilleandjones.com. Gift cards are available for Banville & Jones Basics classes.
SOMMELIER PROGRAMS Wine Fundamentals Certificate, Level 1
Wine Fundamentals Certificate, Level 2
Duration: three hours, once a week, for eight weeks (non-consecutive) Cost: $600.00, includes GST
Duration: three hours, once a week, for 16 weeks (non-consecutive) Starting: January 2013 Cost: $1,000.00, includes GST
Sommelier Diploma Program Duration: 23 classes, eight hours per class Starting: November 19 Cost: $3,250.00, includes GST
For registration information for Sommelier Programs, contact Gary Hewitt, Senior Wine Educator, at 948-9463 or gary@banvilleandjones.com.
WSET® CERTIFICATION We are delighted to team up with Red River College’s School of Continuing and Distance Education to offer the WSET® programs at Red River College’s Exchange District Campus. Banville & Jones brings wine education to classrooms in the heart of downtown Winnipeg.
WSET® Level 1: Award in Wines Duration: One 8-hour workshop, 8:30–5:00 Saturday, October 13 Cost: $359.00 plus GST Foundation Workshops can also be presented on demand at B&J Wine Institute for a minimum of 10 people: ideal for restaurant staff training or your next corporate team-building event.
WSET® Level 2: Award in Wines and Spirits (no prerequisite)
Duration: three hours, once a week, for eight weeks, 6:00 to 9:00 pm Class Dates: October 4 to November 22 (Thursdays) Cost: $859.00 plus GST
Register for WSET® courses at Banville & Jones, 948-WINE (9463) or inquire at wine@banvilleandjones.com. For full course descriptions, please visit www.banvilleandjones.com and follow the link to “Wine Education.”
Red river college Seminars Banville & Jones is also partnering with Red River College to bring exciting wine seminars to the Hospitality and Tourism Management and Culinary Arts program in the Continuing Education and Distance Learning division. (Open to all) The Significant Seven for Wine Enthusiasts Taste the wines and learn the signature styles from the seven most significant grape varieties in today’s wine market. Seven wines, a Banville & Jones Certified Sommelier, and an entertaining afternoon of learning! (RRC Course ID: SEMR-1025) Saturday, October 7, 1:00–4:00 Cost: $99.00 Register online at www.rrc.ca (see “Registration and Fee Information” for 7 ways to register) or contact Gary Hewitt at Banville and Jones, 948-9463, for assistance. www.banvilleandjones.com 57
We're going to need
more wine! Banville & Jones Cottage Cases are available from May Long weekend through to the end of August. Red Case: $129.99 for 12 dry reds (four different wines; three bottles of each) White Case: $129.99 for 12 dry whites (four different wines; three bottles of each) Mixed Case: $169.99 for a baker’s dozen (includes three different whites, two bottles of each; three different reds, two bottles of each; and one bottle of the award-winning Tolaini al passo). Save up to $50 per case!
Delivered to your door! Within city limits: $10 delivery charge Order by email or call us.
1616 St Mary's Rd . Winnipeg, MB. 948-WINE (9463) wine@banvilleandjones.com • www.banvilleandjones.com Store Hours Monday to Friday 10 to 8 Saturday 10 to 6 Sunday and holidays 12 to 6
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Paul and Shirley Martens in South Africa
south africa:
a love story In 1996, Winnipeggers Paul and Shirley Martens took a fateful trip to South Africa to attend a photography workshop with fellow Canadian photographer, Freeman Patterson. It wound up being much more than a oneweek seminar. Paul and Shirley fell in love with the people, the diverse landscapes, the food, and, notably, the wine. They were so drawn to the food and wine culture, in fact, that they decided that every Winnipegger should share their passion, and they started the process of bringing South African wines home to their Winnipeg friends. Six years later, Paul and Shirley have a winter home in Hermanus, South Africa, about 1.5 hours from Cape Town. Chosen for its location on the Atlantic coast between Grotto Beach and the Fernkloof Nature Reserve, it is a perfect home base for their forays into South Africa’s wine regions, where they research the best wines to bring back to Canada with their company, Blend Imports.
www.banvilleandjones.com 59
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When asked what sets South Africa apart from other wine regions, the Martens’ response is the unique blend of Old and New World winemaking. Though South Africa shares a time zone with most of Europe, its position in the Southern Hemisphere means that its harvest season runs opposite that of the European vineyards. This creates a unique opportunity that many are taking advantage of: in their winter season, young South African winemakers are travelling to Europe to help with the harvest and, in return, young European winemakers are coming to South Africa to participate in their harvest six months later. South Africa is considered a New World region, but there is a lot of interest in the traditional winemaking techniques of the Old World. This is creating complex wines that are appealing to wine lovers who may be getting tired of the really big, dark wines of other New World regions. There are some rising South African stars to watch for. The Swartland region is currently drawing the most attention. Up-and-coming winemakers in the region include Adi Badenhorst, Craig Hawkins (Lammershoek), Andrea and Chris Mullineux, and Eben Sadie (Sadie Family Wines). In Walker Bay, others, like Peter-Allan Finlayson, are making beautiful Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays. It is a very exciting time for South African wine drinkers. The wines of the second generation of winemakers since the “new” South Africa are hitting the markets and we are starting to see a distinct South African wine identity emerging. Apart from their love of wine and food, Paul and Shirley share another passion: travel and photography. South Africa has given them the opportunity to share even more than just the wine: they bring the stunning beauty of the landscape back in their breathtaking photography. Here, Paul shares a gallery of his favourites with The Cellar Door. Photos by Paul Martens www.banvilleandjones.com 61
By Mike Muirhead, Sommelier (ISG, CMS), CSW One of the most frequently asked questions in Banville & Jones is: “What was that last wine I bought?” We love that question. We love it when people discover new favourites, and come back for them.
everyone can see, but still keep some of my nerdier thoughts private in my account.
CornerVine is continuing to evolve with your feedback! The updates feature will send you a message when Keeping track of your personal wine history has your preferences arrive: love Malbecs between $15– always been one of the top features of being in $20? We’ll let you know when new stock is available! the Banville & Jones database. The biggest Not at your computer? Our team is working on drawback is that you can only access your the mobile version of CornerVine as we wine history when you are in the store, speak! Along with our input and yours, The Banville & Jones which doesn’t help when you want Ryan and Charles are developing and CornerVine site is a place to tell someone about your new innovating CornerVine to make it for wine lovers at all levels to favourite. the most user-friendly, accessible explore new wines, compare notes, experience we can provide. track purchases, and much more. Whether Luckily, we live in the age of people are looking for insight into wines accessibility! When a couple of CornerVine allows you to take they haven’t tried or are looking to share customers, Ryan Kibbins and your wine history and turn it their own tasting notes, CornerVine users Charles Bouchard, approached into your own personal wine get the benefit of a dedicated network of us to say that they had been story. It is a place to keep your tasters at their fingertips. working on the same problem, notes, mark favourites, and we sat down and listened! discover new wines—either by --Ben MacPhee-Sigurdson, wine browsing our virtual shelves or columnist, Wine Access What eventually came out of that by reading the wine ratings from and Winnipeg meeting was what you know as Banville & Jones wine experts and your Free Press CornerVine, your online wine library. The friends. site was developed as a place where you can track your purchases, and also rate them, share them We invite you to visit CornerVine, check out what it with friends, and recommend them to people who has to offer, and read some of the Banville wine nerds’ share the same tastes. Once you register and validate notes (including mine!). It is very easy to use, but if your account, all of your Banville & Jones wine you have any technophobic tendencies, come see us at purchases will be immediately transferred to “My Banville & Jones Wine Co. We have a terminal ready Wines” on your personal CornerVine page. If you buy in-store to help you set up your account or simply give a bottle of wine Friday afternoon, by the time you get you a tour of all the features. If you have already been home and crack it, you can rate it on your personal on CornerVine, please give us your feedback in person site! My favourite part is that I can put notes up that or at wine@banvilleandjones.com.
See you online at http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com 62 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com
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culinary partners
529 Wellington serves only Canadian prime beef and fresh seafood, with impeccable service in an elegantly restored 1912 mansion on the banks of the Assiniboine River. Celebrating its 10th Anniversary, 529 has quickly become a world-renowned icon in the restaurant industry. An exquisite menu and extensive wine cellar make for truly memorable food and wine experiences at 529. Just ask Brad Pitt or Jennifer Lopez! 529 Wellington Crescent 204.487.8325
Sam Colosimo welcomes everyone like they are family to his Italian bistro in the Exchange District: Brooklynn’s Bistro. Named after his adorable daughter, this destination offers fine dining, contemporary décor, authentic Italian food, and an impressive wine list. Brooklynn’s menu changes seasonally to offer the best regional produce, meat, and fish that Manitoba has to offer. Visit Brooklynn’s for lunch or dinner, or drop by Boa Lounge for an exciting night out! Buon appetito! 177 Lombard Avenue 204.415.4112
64 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com
Chef Louise Briskie-de Beer and partner Faiz de Beer love to share the fruits of their travels by bringing global cuisine with Manitoba flare to your palate. Cafe Savour’s atmosphere is as unique and delightful as the food, perfect for an intimate, formal dinner for two or a group of friends out to enjoy a casual evening of relaxing laughter. Open Thursday, Friday and Saturday starting at 5:30 for dinner. 956 St Mary's Rd 204.254.4681
Winnipeg’s favourite pizzeria! Pizzeria Gusto’s uniquely Italian pizza dough, imported wood-burning oven, and unique, fresh ingredient combinations will please pizza lovers of every palate. Much more than a pizza joint, this eatery offers delicious salads, mains, wines, and desserts, served by gracious staff in a warm, welcoming atmosphere. Visit their fabulous patio this summer to experience the best sparkling wine menu in the city! 404 Academy Road 204.944.8786
Chef partner Tristan Foucault has reinvented the menu on the corner of King and Bannatyne. Peasant Cookery goes back to the land with uniquely prepared Old World dishes and top-notch service. This is real food, freshly harvested, and the seasonal ingredients speak for themselves. Literally everything is made from scratch by Tristan and his team. 100-283 Bannatyne Avenue 204.989.7700
Terrace Fifty-Five mirrors the natural beauty of Assiniboine Park. Whether for an evening out, a leisurely lunch or a special event, this is the venue to match the occasion. With a regional menu that reflects Manitoba food culture, Chef Resch maintains a strong commitment to sustainable and renewable resources. Enjoy Canadian fish, produce, bison, lamb, and grains, beautifully paired with a unique wine list. Unit B - 55 Pavilion Cr 204.938.7275
Amici at Niakwa Golf Club Amici Restaurant Arkadesh Bistro and Lounge Bistro 1800 at Hilton Suites Winnipeg Airport Bistro 7 ¼
Step’N Out is the most uniquely intimate restaurant sur le boulevard in St. Boniface. The rich décor, personalized hand-written menu board, innovative cuisine, and wine list are inspiring and romantic, making loyal patrons out of most every visitor for 13 years. Travel the two minutes from downtown to experience their gluten-free options in the most unique ambiance in the city. 157 Provencher Boulevard 204.956.7837
Winnipeg’s premier sushi destination: Wasabi Sabi. For a bite of lunch onthe-go, or a long, lingering meal at the chef’s table, the Wasabi Group offers unforgettable sushi, appetizers, entrées, drink specials, and desserts. Visit Wasabi Sabi for Happy Hour, Monday to Saturday, 3 pm–6 pm and choose from tuna nachos, spicy mango prawns, tuna goma ae, pizza sushi, assorted tempura or ginger crème brûlée, just to name a few. 3-1360 Taylor Ave 204.415.7878
Blaze Bistro Bombolini Café Dario Diana’s Pizza Elements Elkhorn Resort Earl’s Restaurant and Bar Horfrost Hy’s Steakhouse Joey Kenaston Joey Polo Park Joey’s Only Seafood
Los Chicos Restaurante Y Cantina Mulligans Restaurant and Lounge Olive Garden Italian Restaurant Prairie Ink Café Rainbow Stage Rembrandt’s Bistro Sabai Thai Segovia Spuntino Café St. Charles Country Club Sukhothai TR McCoy’s Italian Restaurant The Current at Inn at the Forks The Victoria Inn Tony Roma’s Urban Prairie Cuisine
C H E • H D’O P • P P • W
I’ A A Y
.ASC. • (204) 477-1897
TOLAINI ESTATES
TUSCANY
“I love grapes, I love wine. The wine world is so complex that most people cannot imagine. In winemaking, there are many different traditions, different styles of wine, and different technologies. Wine has so many diverse aspects, and we are always discovering something new. Every detail is made up of many other little details, and all those details combine to make it possible to get closer to a wine that we dream to make.
This is what I love!” — DIEGO BONATO, WINEMAKER, TOLAINI ESTATES
Diego Bonato is the respected and passionate GM and Winemaker at Tolaini Estates in Tuscany. Diego brings great enthusiasm and expertise to every Tolaini vintage, creating award-winning wines for the world to enjoy. Diego was born into wine. His 6-hectare family vineyard in Colli Euganei, Veneto, has been tended by four generations of Bonato men. After completing his degree in enology, Diego travelled and learned the art of winemaking. He first worked at Tolaini as a cellar hand in 2006, and after travelling and working the Australian wine harvest, he returned to Tuscany in 2008. Available exclusively at Banville & Jones Wine Co.
Diego has an incredible team of four winemakers, bringing with them international experience and education from the Old and New Worlds. He also has the privilege of working with some of the biggest names in winemaking, including world-renowned winemaker Michel Rolland and famous Italian viticulturist Andrea Paoletti. His passion
banvilleandjones.com • 204.948.9463
for wine, food, family, and knowledge fuel his quest to create the perfect bottle of wine.
sidebar Cape of Good Bubbles By Sylvia Jansen, Sommelier (ISG, CMS), CSW The serious fun of sabrage (Photo by Carol Fletcher)
When my overnight in London en route to South Africa coincided with a Wines of South Africa show, it was good fortune. Even before I set foot on South African soil, I visited with producers, tasted their wines and, just like everyone else, matter-of-factly spit into barrel-sized vases of sawdust and sand. I methodically moved around the room among members of the British wine scene. (Was that Steven Spurrier, the famed British wine writer, waving to me? Or was he just drying out his glass?) In the middle of the room was the Platter’s Five Star Table, named for the top scoring wines in the five-point system of the respected South African wine review, Platter’s South African Wines. Close to fifty wines stood in rows. I made my way around the rectangle, tasting, spitting, dumping, and madly writing notes. When I rounded a corner after a couple of dozen wines, I came upon two five-star sparkling wines—what the South Africans call MCC (Méthode Cap Classique, their term for the same production method as Champagne). I tasted one, then the other. In my amazement, I tried another sample of each, barely holding to my obligation to spit after every taste. I looked around the room. Why was everyone not lining up behind me to taste these beautiful wines? Where was Steven Spurrier now that I really wanted to talk to him? These five-star treats were elegant and beautifully textured with orchard fruit, lemon drops and buttery, toasted baguette notes, and the finish danced their paths across my palate for what seemed like minutes. Good sparkling wine is a rare treat, because there is a lot of fizz out there that just does not cut it. I knew from tasting through the Banville & Jones’s sparkling section
that South Africa could do it well. These wines were further proof that South Africa has the capacity for good fizz. I made it my mission to taste as many more as I could while I was visiting the country. My South Africa included a tour through their sparkling wines. Luckily my travel companions were game to experiment with sabrage, the tradition of lopping off the top of a bottle of bubbly with the largest knife available. As we took turns over the course of the tour, a knife in one hand and a bottle of bubbly in another, we had more than a few chances to sample what they had to offer. Many South African producers are doing sparkling, and many are doing them really well. A few are doing them ridiculously well. Good sparkling wine is a complex process. The traditional method starts with high-acid, low-alcohol base wine. When yeast and sugar are added, the wine is bottled, laid on its side, and the winemaker walks away (for South African MCC, for at least 12 months; in Champagne, for at least 15 months or more, depending on the category; it can be years). A second fermentation starts, carbon dioxide is produced and it is absorbed into the liquid. Finally, the sediment from spent yeast cells is removed from the bottle without losing the wine. The bottle is sealed with a large cork, partly exposed, secured with a wire cage, and sent to market in the same bottle that took it through the second fermentation. Since returning home I have re-explored the South African sparkling wines in our store collection, just to satisfy myself that we have a good collection of the fizzy done well. And we do. So here’s to you, waving with my glass.
www.banvilleandjones.com 67
shopping list A.A. Badenhorst 2011 Secateurs Chenin Blanc WO Swartland, South Africa $17.99.......................................... 45 A.A. Badenhorst 2008 Red Blend WO Swartland, South Africa $37.99 ............................................................. 47 Bokisch 2009 Tempranillo Lodi, USA $26.99...................................................................................................... 35 Bokisch 2011 Garnacha Blanca Lodi, USA $19.99.............................................................................................. 35 Bon Cap 2010 The Ruins Pinotage WO Robertson, South Africa $14.99........................................................... 41 Bon Courage Rosé Cap Classique WO Robertson, South Africa $29.99.............................................................. 40 Bon Vivant BBQ Sauces and Rubs $9.99............................................................................................................. 18 Bouchard Finlayson 2010 Blanc de Mer WO Western Cape, South Africa $22.99.............................................. 21 Bouchard Finlayson 2010 Sauvignon Blanc WO Walker Bay, South Africa $27.99.............................................. 21 Bouchard Finlayson 2009 Sans Barrique Chardonnay WO Walker Bay, South Africa $29.99............................. 21 Bouchard Finlayson 2008 Missionvale Chardonnay WO Walker Bay, South Africa $35.99................................. 21 Bouchard Finlayson 2009 Galpin Peak Pinot Noir WO Walker Bay, South Africa $59.99 ........................... 21, 40 Burge Family Wines 2008 Garnacha Barossa Valley, Australia $39.99................................................................ 47 Château Bouscassé 2008 Jardins Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh AOC, France $22.99..................................................... 46 Coriole 2010 Sangiovese McLaren Vale, Australia $22.99............................................................................. 35, 70 Domaines Félines Jourdan 2010 Picpoul de Pinet Languedoc AOC France $13.99 ............................................. 18 Falernia 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Elqui Valley, Chile $12.99............................................................................. 70 J. Bouchon 2007 Mingre Maule Valley, Chile $46.99.......................................................................................... 70 Lammershoek 2010 LAM Syrah WO Swartland, South Africa $21.99 .............................................................. 47 Luis Felipe Edwards 2010 Gran Reserva Sauvignon Blanc, Chile $17.99............................................................ 45 M. Chapoutier 2009 Bellaruche Blanc Côtes du Rhône AOC, France $16.99.................................................... 46 Moffett 2008 Screenplay Napa Valley, USA $66.99............................................................................................. 35 Mullineux 2010 Family White WO Swartland, South Africa $31.99................................................................... 46 Post House 2009 Blueish Black WO Stellenbosch, South Africa $20.99.............................................................. 41 Provenza 2010 Tenuta Maiolo Lugana DOC Lombardy, Italy $19.99................................................................. 45 Renacer 2010 Enamore Mendoza, Argentina $34.99.......................................................................................... 70 Tablas Creek 2009 Esprit De Beaucastel Red Paso Robles, USA $72.99 ............................................................ 35 Tamber Bey 2008 Deux Chevaux Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, USA $59.99............................................... 70 The Lackey 2011 BBQ Red Blend, South Australia $16.99................................................................................. 47 Thelema 2008 The Mint Cabernet Sauvignon WO Stellenbosch, South Africa $50.99........................................ 40 Vincola Botter 2010 Ogio Pinot Grigio, Italy $10.99.......................................................................................... 70 Wine Sceptre $159.99.......................................................................................................................................... 18
Due to the nature of the wine industry, any prices and vintages listed in this publication, as well as availability of product, are subject to change and cannot be guaranteed by Banville & Jones Wine Co. 68 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com
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top picks
Gary Hewitt
Mike Muirhead
Jennifer Hiebert
Coriole 2010 Sangiovese McLaren Vale, Australia $22.99
Falernia 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Elqui Valley, Chile $12.99
Renacer 2010 Enamore Mendoza, Argentina $34.99
New World intensity embraces classic perfumed Sangiovese aromas of cherry, red berries, fennel, and warm earth. Wide-ranging flavours hang on a frame of taut tannins and give way to a long juicy finish. Open 30–60 minutes ahead of time or put a few bottles in your cellar to drink over the next 5–6 years. Coriole’s experience with this tricky variety shows!
This Falernia Cabernet is one of the best values in the store. Nestled in the only Chilean valley that runs east to west, the Elqui Valley, this vineyard gets the coastal breezes that produce very balanced, luscious fruit. This Cabernet is complex with easy tannins, black currant, and blueberries. It totally over-delivers for the price, and will be one of my go-to wines for grilled steak this summer.
In time for the celebrations of June, the marvelous Enamore will put a smile on the evening. This fourgrape blend from Argentina is made using a traditional winemaking technique with a modern twist. Enamore has beautiful aromas of fruit and spice with a smooth, complex finish. So grab your favourite glass and pour yourself something wonderful!
Jill Kwiatkoski
Tina Jones
Traci Friesen
J. Bouchon 2007 Mingre Maule Valley, Chile $46.99
Tamber Bey 2008 Deux Chevaux Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, USA $59.99
Vincola Botter 2010 Ogio Pinot Grigio Italy $10.99
J. Bouchon's iconic wine is well balanced with soft tannins, bold fruit and spice notes—it leaves you wanting more. Mingre represents J. Bouchon’s winery, their love and passion for winemaking, and their respect for the Maule Valley terroir that surrounds them.
One of our new stars in the Napa line-up! From their prestigious Yountville vineyard named Deux Chevaux (two horses), this stylish Cabernet is dark and intense, beautifully full bodied, with lots of ripe fruit, cassis, cocoa, and layers of texture. Decant a bit before dinner and it just sings out of the glass!
Ogio is a light but crisp Pinot Grigio with subtle hints of fruit. At this great price, you really can’t go wrong! With the weather getting warmer, it is the perfect on-yourdeck-after-work drink to enjoy with good friends around the barbeque.
70 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com
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