the
Cellar Door Win e an d p o ss i b il i t ie s by Banvi l le & Jo ne s Wi ne Co.
Cabernet Sauvignon
the king of grapeS Issue 16 October 2013-January 2014
years est.
1883
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contents 23 36
Features 22 Banville & Jones Top 50 Cabernets The Banville & Jones Sommeliers were challenged to name the top 50 Cabernet Sauvignons, resulting in a veritable Bucket List for Cabernet lovers.
36 At the Root of Napa’s Great Cabs: An Interview with Andy Beckstoffer Sylvia Jansen goes directly to the source in an interview with Napa Valley’s premier Cabernet Sauvignon grape grower, Andy Beckstoffer.
40 Sterling Cooper and Cab
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Andrea Eby explores how and why Cabernet Sauvignon became, and remains, the most popular grape variety in the world.
Thank you to our loyal readership for voting The Cellar Door Manitoba’s Consumer Magazine of the Year in 2011 and 2012!
Cover: Cabernet Sauvignon grapes on the vine (photo courtesy of Moone-Tsai Wine) www.banvilleandjones.com 5
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contents Columns 10 A Message from Tina Jones 14 Ask a Sommelier 18 Banville & Jones and Company 27 Chef Profile Q&A with Chef Alan Shepard of Step’N Out
30 Gary’s Corner 44
Why Cabernet Sauvignon loves steak
34 Behind the Label Majella Wines
38 Trending The accidental trendsetter
39 Especially for You Banville & Jones Christmas Baskets and Gifts
44 le tre Napa Valley
51 Gluggy The glugger’s guide to mulling
52 Banville & Jones Wine and Food Events 54 Banville & Jones Wine Institute 57 Sidebar Overdressed?
58 Culinary Partners 61 Shopping List 62 Top Picks
www.banvilleandjones.com 7
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Cellar Door Publisher and Editorial Director Lisa Muirhead lisa@poisepublications.com Graphic Design Shane Garrett | www.STG54.com Ad Design Ryan Germain Advertising Sales Director Vanessa Shapiro vanessa@poisepublications.com
Contributors Tina Jones, Todd Antonation, Jennifer Battcock, Pauline Boldt, Jen Brownridge, Marisa Curatolo, Andrew Eastman, Andrea Eby, Carol Fletcher, Gary Hewitt, Sylvia Jansen, Dylan Keats, Jill Kwiatkoski, Rebecca Lechman, Ian McCausland, Saralyn Mehta, Mike Muirhead, Rob Stansel Published for Banville & Jones Wine Co. by Poise Publications Inc. www.poisepublications.com
For advertising information, please contact vanessa@poisepublications.com. Banville & Jones Wine Co. is a fine wine boutique in Winnipeg, Manitoba that specializes in promoting wine education and lifestyle. Opened by sisters Tina Jones and Lia Banville in 1999, it is located in a threestorey Tuscan-inspired facility that houses fine wine and accessories, an educational facility, and a private function room. Banville & Jones Wine Co. 1616 St Mary’s Rd. Winnipeg, MB R2M 3W7 ph. 204-948-9463 www.banvilleandjones.com
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Photo by Pauline Boldt
a message from tina jones My FavEs 1. Visiting Napa Valley is one of my all-time favourite destinations. The wine and food culture is fabulous! 2. Local restaurants are the perfect place to pair your favourite Cabernets, whether with an elegant prime steak at 529 Wellington or a gourmet burger at Market Burger. The best! 3. Staying and playing at my family’s vineyard in Tuscany, with a glass of vibrant Tolaini Valdisanti. Being in Tuscany opens all of your senses to magical levels. 4. Surprising friends with a new Cabernet gem. 5. Searching the world for my next favourite Cab!
Why is Cabernet Sauvignon the wine that some people love, and some love to hate? Well, Cabernet Sauvignon is a serious wine. A quality Cabernet can raise a simple meal to an art form. It can be aged in oak, and come out even more seriously delicious than when it entered the barrel. And it can be something very special: I cannot think of a Napa Valley Cabernet that is not elegant. Cabernet is also a successful, serious wine. It is the royalty of Bordeaux grape varieties. It is the wine that has raised the Napa Valley to unheard-of heights. When wine-producing countries want to hit the world stage with a winner, Cabernet Sauvignon is almost always in the mix. It is the wine that can put a producer on the map. Perhaps Cabernet’s terrific commercial success makes it a target for those wine lovers who say they want something different. However, when I am treating my friends to something special, it is Cabernet Sauvignon that I tend to pull out of the cellar. I know people will love it—even those who say they do not! This issue of The Cellar Door celebrates this noble grape variety. Our Sommeliers have collaborated on a list of the 50 best Cabernets available today; Gary Hewitt gets technical on why Cabernet is so fabulous with food; Andrea Eby gives us some insight into its prestige; and I take an afternoon on a patio in the Napa Valley with my friends of le tre to celebrate its elegance. Enjoy!
Tina Jones
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ask a sommelier It is my Champagne birthday coming up (also my 30th) and I would like to share a bottle with my husband. What would you would recommend for a Champagne under $100? We would just be drinking it as is, or perhaps with cake. —Kristen Perry Dear Kristen, How great to have an occasion that warrants a great bottle of Champagne! There really is something magical about great bubbles. You could spend hundreds of dollars on a bottle of Champagne, b u t t h e go o d news is that you don’t have to. My three favourites are all under $100. At the top of my list is Chartonge-Taillet nv Heurtebise Brut Blanc de Blancs ($78.99)—a bold and memorable choice. On the more elegant side is PloyezJacquemart 2005 Extra Brut ($85.99). Last, but certainly not least, is the Champagne that made me a believer in bubbles: BillecartSalmon nv Brut Reserve ($64.99). I promise that any of these three are worthy of toasting your Champagne birthday. —Saralyn Mehta I have seen a few new “low-calorie” wines on the market. What makes these “low calorie” and are they any good? —William Stewart “Low-calorie” wines are essentially wines with low alcohol content, and can come to the market through two
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different processes. In one process, wine is manipulated via spinning cone or by reverse osmosis, which removes the alcohol through technology. Some producers have advertised these as low-GI (Glycemic Index) or lowcalorie wines, as alcohol is the major source of calories in wine. Some feel this process strips away certain flavour components of the wine, and in truth, wine needs alcohol to feel balanced. Another option is naturally lowalcohol wines that have been produced by picking grapes that are ripe, but also have lower natural sugar content. These wines come in at about 10.5–12% alc/vol. They are very food-friendly, but can also be enjoyed by themselves. They often leave the palate clean and refreshed. It is amazing the difference that 3% less alcohol can make to the calorie count of your wine. Naturally lowalcohol wines are like light beer, but with all the flavour! Low-alcohol wine is available in red or white. Our favourites are: the Australian Miranda Wines’ Summer H u e s S h i ra z o r S u m m e r H u e s Sauvignon Blanc (both $17.99) and the French Les Domaines Auriol So Light Merlot or Terret Blanc/ Sauvignon Blanc (both $13.99). —Mike Muirhead I am hosting my first family Thanksgiving dinner! There will be 12 adults coming, and they all like wine! How much wine should I plan for? Can you give me a couple of
suggestions for a traditional turkeyand-ham-type dinner? —Ann Karam Thanksgiving dinner is one of my favourite holiday dinners to enjoy— the bounty of fall on your plate and a vineyard’s harvest swirling in your glass. The perfect white wine for Thanksgiving, in my opinion, is Grüner Veltliner. We carry two of my favourites—Rabl Spiegel Grüner Veltliner ($23.99) and Laurenz V. Friendly Grüner Veltliner ($19.99). This beautiful Austrian gem is quite unique—medium body, crisp acidity with notes of minerality, citrus, and almost a peppery finish on the palate. For the red wine lovers, don’t despair and please, don’t overpower your beautiful turkey with a heavy red! Slightly earthy with notes of black cherry and spice, the Blue Mountain Pinot Noir from the Okanagan ($31.99) is one of my favourites; for a lighter-style wine, try the Ventisquero Reserva Pinot Noir, from Chile ($12.99). Both whites and reds pair beautifully with turkey or ham and will be a hit at your dinner table. As for quantities, the general rule for dinner is half a bottle per person, so for 12 people you will need to buy (or assign) a minimum of six bottles. I think it’s always better to be on the safe side—so I always buy one or two extra bottles, just in case. Good luck hosting your first Thanksgiving! May the turkey be juicy and the wine pair perfectly. Enjoy! —Jill Kwiatkoski
If you have a question for our Sommeliers, email us at wine@banvilleandjones.com, or find us on Facebook and Twitter @BanvilleJones
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6 8 Friends of Banville & Jones: 1. Sylvia Jansen, Dr Bruce McFarlane, and Michelle McFarlane; 2. Ă&#x201D;sten Rice, Jill Kwiatkoski and Ken Aird; 3. Giselle and Wayne Sage, Margaux Miller, Tina Jones, and Wade Miller; 4. Tina Jones and Kathy Schwartz; 5. Lisa Muirhead and David Schmeichel; 6. Brittni Reimer, Pauline Boldt, Sean Marek, Chris Voogt, Marisa Curatolo, and Jihan Aquino; 7. Irene Preston, Anya Lobreau, Francis Lobreau, Peggy Brooke and Pauline Boisselle; 8. Megan Kozminski, Roger Belton, and Tina Jones.
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14 9. Adam and Julia Jones at Tolaini Estates, Tuscany; 10. The executive of the Manitoba chapter of the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers: Christopher Sprague, Andrea Eby, Sharon Steward, and Sylvia Jansen; 11. Marisa Curatolo of le tre; 12. Rebecca Lechman, Rick Watkins, Todd Antonation, Kim Barrett, and Gary Hewitt enjoy the wines of South Africa with hosts Shirley and Paul Martens of Blend Imports; 13. Charles Baker of Stratus Vineyards, Niagara, with Tina Jones; 14. Kathy Milne, Pauline Lomax, April Frego, and Marlene Dawson in Tuscany; 15. Chef Tim Palmer of The Velvet Glove served delectable fare in Banville & Jones through the month of June.
www.banvilleandjones.com 19
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banville
& jones
Top 50 Cabernets In an issue devoted to the king of grapes, the Banville & Jones Sommeliers could not pass up the opportunity to offer our readers the definitive list of our top 50 Cabernet Sauvignons.
BOLD& Beautiful
Majella 2008 Coonawarra, Australia $47.99
Vellum 2008 Napa Valley, USA $69.99
Benziger 2008 Sonoma County, USA $34.99
Moss Wood 2011 Read all about Prof and his wines in Behind the Label on page 34.
Amy’s Blend Margaret River, Australia $41.99
Joseph Phelps 2007 Innisfree Napa Valley, USA $44.99
Hindsight 2010 Napa Valley, USA $34.99
Tamber Bey 2008 Deux Chevaux Yountville Napa Valley, USA $59.99
Mollydooker 2011 The Maitre D’ McLaren Vale, Australia $41.99 With less than 1,800 cases made in 2008, Banville & Jones is more than lucky to be able to offer this iconic wine to our customers.
Sutherland 2008 Elgin WO, South Africa $27.99
Some Young Punks 2010 Fierce Allure McLaren Vale, Australia $39.99
Charles Melton 2006 Barossa Valley, Australia $49.99
Bennett Lane 2006 With as much character as the enigmatic trio of “punks” that make it, this single-vineyard offering has a dark, brooding character that will charm even the most reserved wine lover
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Napa Valley, USA $67.99
Bure 2009 Duration Oakville, Napa Valley, USA
Hidden
GEMS Tahbilk 2007
We would call this a sentimental favourite but this wine always over-delivers. Making the top of three of our five Sommeliers’ lists, Burge offers Barossa fruit with Old World sensibilities.
Our top-selling Cabernet in the store. McManis’s family-run operation is into its fifth generation of grape growers. This wine has been a Winnipeg favourite for over eight years, and consistently offers a taste of California Cab at a great price.
Victoria, Australia $25.99
Burge 2005 Homestead Barossa Valley, USA $39.99
A long-time favourite and leader in Chile, Luis Felipe Edwards have been pushing the boundaries of Chilean winemaking for almost 40 years. This go-to wine is perfect for the Cabernet lover in your family.
Cannonball 2009 California, USA $29.99
Falernia 2010 Elqui Valley, Chile $12.99
Paso Creek 2011 Paso Robles, USA $20.99
McManis 2011 California, USA $19.99
J. Bouchon 2008 Reserva Especial Maule Valley, Chile $18.99
Bogle 2011 California, USA $20.99
Luis Felipe Edwards 2010 Gran Reserva Colchagua, Chile $17.99
Domaine Astruc 2011 Reserva Pays d’Oc, France $18.99
Falernia 2009 Number 1 Elqui Valley, Chile $27.99
Perez Cruz 2007 Liguai Maipo Valley, Chile $47.99
This Cab was voted the highest value Cab in the store by our wine experts. Always punching above its weight class, this Southern France offering has been a best seller since it made its debut five years ago.
Lange Twins 2009 Lodi, USA $18.99
Redwood Creek 2011 California, USA $13.99
Big, bold, rich, and luscious. This family-owned and operated vineyard uses their agricultural background and the experience of world-renowned winemakers to produce this stunner. With only 400 cases produced of the 2008 vintage, stock up while it lasts!
under the
RADAR
Coriole 2011
Hacienda Albae 2007
Redstone McLaren Vale, Australia $21.99
60/40 Castilla, Spain $21.99
Joel Gott 2011
Heartland 2009
815 Napa Valley, USA $29.99
Langhorne Creek, Australia $25.99
Hill Family Estate 2010
Simonsig 2011
Napa Valley, USA $ 64.99
Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot Stellenbosch, South Africa $11.99
Jax 2007 Napa Valley, USA $49.99
Iconic
under $100 Tolaini 2008 Valdisanti Toscana IGT, Italy $49.99
Grosset 2007 Gaia Clare Valley, Australia $62.99 Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hard to explain an Australian wine with a Bordelais soul. This Bordeaux blend offers brooding tannins while young, and will spoil the patient when it matures. A masterpiece.
Bacio DiVino 2009 Janzen To Kalon Vineyard Napa Valley, USA $99.99
Hewitt Vineyard 2007 Rutherford Napa Valley, USA $85.99
Moone-Tsai 2009 Napa Valley, USA $98.99
Faust 2010 Napa Valley, USA $69.99
Ehlers 2010 120/80 Napa Valley, USA $71.99
Giant Steps 2010 Harryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Monster Yarra Valley, Australia $46.99
From people deeply in love with their Napa Valley home, and deeply in love with each other, comes a wine we deeply love! MaryAnn and Larry Tsai are the fine couple responsible for Moone-Tsai Cabernet Sauvignon, a wine that unfolds with beautiful fruit, complexity, and elegance in a full frame.
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cabicons
This was the dark horse of the competition: Benziger is a biodynamic vineyard whose wines are powerful yet very balanced. Wonderfully textured tannins with a rich berry core, these wines are classic in every sense.
Ducru-Beaucaillou 2006 St. Julian AOC, France $290.99
Cos d’Estournel 2005 Saint-Estéphe AOC, France $473.99
Benziger 2006 Tribute Sonoma Mountain, USA $129.99
Dominus Estate 2009 Napa Valley $256.99
Joseph Phelps 2009
We first tried this wine in Napa 10 years ago and knew we had to bring it back to Winnipeg for 529 Wellington. It is a monster of a Napa Cab with big, rich fruit and a vanilla, mocha finish. The label is made from part of the cask used to age the wine!
Insignia Napa Valley $369.99
Rubicon Estate 2006 Cask Rutherford, USA $89.99
Tenuta dell’Ornellaia 2005 Ornellaia Bolgheri DOC Superiore, Italy $248.99
Moss Wood 2007 Moss Wood Vineyard Margaret River, Australia $115.99
One of Australia's most revered Cabernets, this Western Australia gem breaks the mould with an intense style that rewards long-term aging with grace. This is a favourite on Langton's wine classification.
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chef profile
Alan Shepard, Step’N Out Sur le Boulevard Our garden was actually featured in Manitoba Home & Garden this summer and was on the Winnipeg Symphony Orchestra Garden Tour in July. Signature dish: Everyone loves the pumpkin ravioli appetizer. Favourite wine: Majella Cabernet Sauvignon Favourite kitchen gadget at home: I have a pickle slicer that I use all the time to finely slice vegetables for garnishes. Favourite cookbook: The Joy of Cooking. You can find it in any used bookstore, and it is timeless as a reference book in the kitchen.
Photos by Ian McCausland
Most famous person you have served: In the restaurant, we have served Richard Gere, Patrick Swayze, Susan Sarandon, Blythe Danner, and Adrienne Clarkson when she was Governor General, to name a few! You can come in and see their photos and many others on our walls. Favourite dish as a kid: My mom used to make an amazing chicken goulash with haluski (dumplings).
Chef Alan Shepard and partner Verna Judge have developed a loyal following in the last 15 years. Alan’s internationally inspired menu features not only local, fresh, and gluten-free ingredients, but focuses on good food; his specialties are fish and seafood. The 36-seat restaurant is as unique as its menu. Ornamental shoes (a signature motif) and framed photos of famous stars that have enjoyed Alan’s cuisine decorate the intimate space— in fact, many consider Step’N Out to be Winnipeg’s most romantic restaurant. In August 2013, Winnipeg Free Press food critic Marion Warhaft confirmed what we already know: that “everything about the place is five stars.”
First meal you remember that made you interested in food: My parents loved to entertain, and my mom used to make these amazing lobster bouchées that I would sneak off the tray at parties. Your favourite place to eat on your day off: The barbeque in my back yard!
The secret ingredient in your fridge: I always keep a bottle of wine close by. If you weren’t a chef: I would be a landscaper or a gardener. When Verna and I aren’t here, we are in our happy place: our back garden.
www.banvilleandjones.com 27
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and enjoy the rich savoury flavour. While chewing, sip your wine… Wow, the fruit is more intense, but where did the tannins go? They are bound to protein: your whole mouth feels juicier and the wine tastes softer, less grippy.
Why Cabernet Sauvignon Loves Steak Small berries and thick skins epitomize high-quality Cabernet Sauvignon grapes—each a small packet of sugar-rich pulp wrapped in a tough envelope rich in dark blue pigments and astringent tannins. Crush the berries and ferment the wine while keeping the skins submerged. Allow warmth and the rising alcohol to fully extract all the goodness from the skins. Perhaps barrel-age the wine in fine French oak to soak up vanilla, spice, smoke, and mocha-chocolate notes. Et voilà, a classic oak-aged Cabernet Sauvignon with full body, intense blackcurrant and dark fruit flavours, refreshing acidity, warm alcohol and lots of tannins—higher levels than in most other wines. The tannins dry your gums and make your tongue feel rough against the roof of your mouth. They bind to the lubricating proteins in your saliva to take away that slippery feeling. They give wines a tactile structure, a sensory dimension beyond taste and smell in which touch is essential. Imagine a young vigorous Cabernet filling your mouth and drying your lips and gums. Take a bite of grilled steak (or, if you are vegetarian, a firm grilled Portabello mushroom)
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Now, consider the fat marbling of a great steak. It creates succulence but also coats your mouth and all its bushy little taste buds. Your first mouthful of steak is full of flavour, but the next seems subdued, lacking full sensory impact. If you rinse your mouth between bites with a dilute solution of alcohol, say 13–15%, the usual range for good Cabernets, the fat is washed away and taste buds are liberated. Then, Cabernet’s acidity refreshes the palate and stimulates saliva flow. Essentially, alcohol and acid recalibrate your palate for more, more, more. Next, taste the richness of your steak (or mushroom!): the complex meaty flavours, the charred surface. Steak’s rich savoury flavour wants a full-flavour wine, one with weight, intensity, even complexity. Again, Cabernet Sauvignon delivers. Packed into a full-bodied Cabernet, you can find notes reminiscent of fresh green bell pepper, green or black olives, fresh tobacco leaf, and cedar—all savoury elements to complement the meat. If your Cabernet also spent time inside new French oak barrels, flavours of nutmeg, clove, smoke, coffee, and chocolate may dance with and echo the charbroil of a seasoned, seared steak. Are you drooling yet? Ah, but not all Cabernets are created equal—nor are steaks!—and herein lies an incredible diversity of
tastes. Warm climates boost fruit and alcohol; cool climates increase herbal notes and acidity; and each region expresses unique traits or terroir. Vintages vary and Cabernet Sauvignon wines change with time. Tannins that are assertive in youth bind with one another and with pigments to transform the wine into softer, sometimes silky, elegance. Likewise, youthful fruitiness yields to a mellow complexity. Some wine drinkers prefer the vigour of youth; others like the mellowness of age. Yet, even over time, Cab’s underlying structure allows it to jive with a delicious steak. Cook up a favourite steak and open a great Cab to eavesdrop on the titillating details of their marriage— how they support, complement, and charm each other; how age matters; and most importantly of all, why Cabernet Sauvignon loves steak.
The Styles of Cabernet Medium weight and herbal Falernia 2010 Elqui Valley, Chile ($12.99) Full, rich, and true Coriole 2011 Redstone McLaren Vale, Australia ($21.99) Powerful and richly oaked Hewitt 2007 Rutherford, Napa Valley USA ($85.99)
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OOOOO
behind the label: majella wines By Mike Muirhead, Sommelier (ISG, CMS)
Majella 2011 The Musician Cabernet/Shiraz Coonawarra, Australia $24.99
Majella 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra, Australia $47.99
They call him “Prof.” Brian Lynn, the owner of Majella, is one of the biggest personalities in the wine world—with wines to match. Prof and his brother Tony made their first wines under the Majella label in 1991, producing 600 cases of Coonawarra Estate Shiraz under the watchful eye of winemaker Bruce Gregory. Twenty-two years later, Majella is one of the most highly regarded and most awarded wineries in Australia; it claims a spot in the “Outstanding” classification on Langton’s classification of Australian wine—the standard for consistent quality and ranking at auction. When asked what makes the region perfect for Cabernet, Prof always goes back to the land: “Coonawarra is still one of the greatest—dare I say the greatest?—vineyard areas in the world to grow and make Cabernet Sauvignon. Our aim at Majella is to continue to produce the very best wines we can. We have a very good patch of dirt in Coonawarra, nicely mature grape vines, and a great team of people. You can rest assured that our wines will only get better. The future looks exciting.” The future is exciting: with over 60 ha (150 acres) of mostly Cabernet and Shiraz under vine (they also have plantings of Riesling and Merlot), the wines of Majella are created exclusively from estate fruit. Having a very manageable size of winery and the ability to control the quality of their fruit on mature vines means a sustainable future and consistency over the coming years. The Musician is the perfect introduction to the Majella
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Majella 2008 The Malleea Cabernet/Shiraz Coonawarra, Australia $79.99
style. This wine was created to give wine lovers the house style in an approachable (both stylistically and monetarily) format. Made of 55% Cabernet and 45% Shiraz, this wine brims with fresh red fruit, a bit of black pepper, and smooth, round tannins. Coonawarra is known for their Cabernet, and Majella’s Cabernet is a Banville & Jones favourite (indeed, it ranked in the top five of our Top 50 Cabernets on page 22). The wine has trademark blackberry, blueberry, and fruit cake notes that are consistent through most of Majella’s wines. Its fine tannins and juicy core give it a long life in the bottle—though it is almost too good not to open right away. Majella’s flagship wine is The Malleea (an Aboriginal word meaning “green pastures”). This Cabernet/Shiraz blend is chosen from the ripest parcels from their oldest vines and sees the most careful treatment in the winery during fermentation and aging in fine French oak barrels. This wine is ripe and robust, with dark red fruits, black olives, a hint of mocha, and lifted vanilla in the background. It is made to last, and can be kept for 10–15 years with proper cellaring. Tasting this wine is experiencing one of Australia’s icons. So why do they call Brian Lynn “Prof”? I have heard a couple of stories that involve his all-knowing history of everything Coonawarra. I have also heard that it is because of the professor-like spectacles he wore at university. Whichever origin story is correct, I do know that if I want to taste outstanding Coonawarra Cab, I will always turn to the Prof.
WORLD DISCOVERY
At the Root of Napa's Great Cabs:
An interview with Andy Beckstoffer Interview by Sylvia Jansen, Sommelier (ISG, CMS), CSW Andrew “Andy” Beckstoffer is a giant in the world of wine. He is the founder, chairman, and owner of Beckstoffer Vineyards and its farming companies in California. His company is the largest seller of premium wine grapes in the Napa and North Coast areas, owning more than 1,200 ha (3,000 acres) of vineyards in the Napa Valley, Mendocino County, and the Red Hills of Lake County. Beckstoffer Vineyards include some of Napa’s most historic and prized vineyard properties. Beckstoffer himself makes no wine, but the fruit from his vineyards makes its way into some of the most prized wines of Napa. Sylvia Jansen spoke with him recently from his offices in the Napa Valley. Sylvia Jansen (SJ) Andy, thanks for speaking with us! This issue is all about Cabernet Sauvignon. Can you give us an overview of your work and your background with Cabernet?
At that time, if you were going to be in the premium table wine business, you needed to be on the North Coast, and in Napa in particular. I thought, if Napa Cabernet Sauvignon could be successful, the wine business could Andy Beckstoffer (AB) Of the 3,000 be successful, because Napa was the acres of vineyard we grow, almost 730 leading edge. ha (1,800 acres) of that is Cabernet Sauvignon. We grow about 500 acres of that Cabernet in the Napa Valley— We are the farmers. We don’t probably more Cabernet than anybody. tell them how to make wine, We grow a lot of it, and we have been and we don’t let them tell growing it for a long time. SJ How did your long history in Napa start? AB In the mid-to-late 1960s, I was in the acquisition department of a corporation—I guess I was the acquisition department. We were investigating the California wine business, and one of the things our chairman said was: “Don’t tell me it doesn’t look good. I know that! Tell me what’s required to make it an attractive acquisition.” At that time, there was very little dry table wine sold, and almost no premium table wine. We saw the opportunity to develop the premium dry table wine business. We knew we had to acquire a supply of the right grapes, even though we were not quite sure what those right grapes were! They turned out to include Cabernet Sauvignon.
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us how to grow grapes.
of premium dry table wine business to people. And they would say, sure, I believe your numbers, I’d like to invest—but who is going to farm it? We could find farmers to farm 30 acres in the old way, but could not find anybody to farm a hundred acres in a new way that dealt with the inefficiencies. So I set up a farming company. Then I had an opportunity to buy the farming company. I spent 1968 in the San Joachim Valley with farmers in all the little towns in California. I found I liked the farmers—and I liked the land!
SJ What was your new approach? SJ What makes Napa special for AB We grow grapes in a sustainable Cabernet Sauvignon? way. We are not organic or AB We have the Mediterranean biodynamic, but we farm sustainably climate, and we also have the soils— and we approach it in a very highalluvial fans that create permeability. tech way. This is very intense farming, Cabernet Sauvignon needs well- paying attention to the environment on drained soils. But Napa also had a each individual bunch of grapes—the culture of quality wine dating back to light, heat, leaves, and the uniformity the 1850s and 1860s. of ripening. SJ Why did you decide to step into SJ You sell all of your fruit. Do your grape growing? clients negotiate how you do things in the vineyard? AB In the late 1960s, when we bought Beaulieu and Inglenook wineries, I AB No. We control the farming. The came out as part of the winery team, winery gets to determine when the but we did not have enough grapes. grapes are picked at harvest time. We So I got the job of going around the try to select really great winemakers, country and explaining the economics who work for people who understand
quality. Once we do that, we put it in their hands. If it doesn’t work out, we will not sign another contract. But we are the farmers. We don’t tell them how to make wine, and we don’t let them tell us how to grow grapes. SJ When did Beckstoffer become publicly recognized as a grower of premium grapes? AB Up until the late 1980s and early 1990s, making wine here was what I call the period of the “Magic Chef.” The winemaker (the Magic Chef) would bring wine in from all sorts of areas, blend them and produce great wines. It really showed off the skill of the winemaker. Well, when phylloxera hit in late 1989 and in the early 1990s, we changed everything around growing grapes, and, I believe, took over leadership of the viticulture. We had begun to accumulate some of the great terroirs: vineyards such as To Kalon, Dr. Crane, and Las Piedras. We began to emphasize what was going on in the vineyard. Vineyard designates (identifying vineyards and terroir) showed that the vineyard is a great contributor to quality in the wine. Yes, the winemaker is important, but the emphasis shifted from the winemaker to the vineyard. At that point, our brand began to emerge, and people began to really know it. SJ How do you feel about the high alcohol levels in wines today? AB I think alcohol levels over 15% are too high. There are two reasons why I think that. One is that wine needs to complement, not compete with, food; when the alcohol gets too high, it competes. Now, these are still delicious wines because they are well-balanced, high fruit, but I think we could use a little more elegance. I am also concerned that these high-alcohol wines may not stand the test of time, which is important for a great wine region like Napa Valley. We have to show what Cabernet Sauvignon can be, that it can be the royalty that we all think it is. SJ How do you respond to critics who blame grape growers for high alcohol levels, who say they push ripeness levels too high and send in fruit that is too ripe?
AB Well, the winemakers force us to do that. That, and wine critics—ask them to do it! We [grape growers] don’t like all this hang time! SJ You produce a lot of fruit and work with many winemakers. What do you enjoy when you are drinking white wine? AB Well, I like Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blanc with a little bit of oak—not too much! I like Sauvignon Blanc that is melon-style, wet and wild! SJ Is it too sensitive a question to ask you what your favourite red wine is? AB Not at all—Cabernet Sauvignon! And I like it with a little age—it’s great!
Beckstoffer and Napa Valley • Napa Valley vineyard property is among the most valuable: one acre of prime Napa Valley vineyard property can be sold for $300,000. By contrast, a fringe-area vineyard in a less suitable California location might go for $35,000 to $75,000 per acre. • Beckstoffer forged an early, historic agreement on grape pricing that tied the price of grapes to retail bottle price: for example, the price for a tonne of Beckstoffer grapes would be 100 times the current retail price of a bottle. The producer of a $250 bottle of fine Cabernet Sauvignon from a Beckstoffer vineyard would pay at least $25,000 for a ton of that fruit. (The average price of basic Napa Cabernet Sauvignon is about $5,000 per tonne.) • In 1989, Beckstoffer led the Napa Valley Grape Growers in establishing the Winery Definition Ordinance, requiring that 75% of grapes used in Napa Valley wines must come from the appellation. • Since 2006, 96 wines produced from Beckstoffer Vineyards have received scores of 90 or higher from wine reviewers.
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(accidentally) trending By Saralyn Mehta, Sommelier, (ISG)
T
here are certain words that you will probably never hear associated with my name. “Techie,” “fashionista,” and “trendy” make that list. I don't have a Facebook account; my son regularly has to help me with my iPhone; and I am pretty sure that if I looked hard enough, I could find a blazer with giant shoulder pads hiding somewhere in my closet. Let’s just say that the irony was not lost on me when I was assigned this trending article. Sometimes, though, others see things in you that you don’t see in yourself. It appears that my great love of Napa Cab means that I can finally stand up and shout from the rooftops: “I am trendy!” My elation was short-lived when I really started to think about what made me believe I was on the cutting edge of Cab trends. Is Napa Cab really trendy, or is it like the Chanel of the wine world: classic and never out of fashion? Cabernet has held the top spot in the wine world—no matter where it is from—for as long as anyone can remember. Could my love of Napa Cabs drop me smack dab in the middle of the cool kids club? More importantly, did I really want to be there? Did I want to be the Sommelier equivalent of Chanel, creator of the classic suit, or Jean Paul Gaultier, creator of the cone bra? Couldn’t I be both? Then I came up with a theory: most great new trends are really just a play on classic building blocks, and my latest wine fascination falls right in line with that hypothesis. Over the past few years, we have increasingly seen Napa blends that are built around classic Napa Cabernet, but with a twist. My first foray into one such creation was Hendry Vineyards Red Wine, a blend of Petit Verdot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Yes, this is a list of classic
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Bordeaux blend grapes, but it is the California sun and soil that gave this classic the modern twist that quickly made it one of my favourites. Next was Screenplay, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Syrah, and Viognier. Once again, I was in love. Could these blends continue to win me over or was it a two-time fluke? I needed to know! I kept tasting and the hits kept coming: Blackbird Arise (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc); Bennett Lane Maximus (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, and Cabernet Franc); Quintessa (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Carménère); and my newest favourite, Hill Family Barrel Blend (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Sirah, Zinfandel, and Syrah). It seems to me that these winemakers share a fundamental truth of the same secret and use it in their own creative way: If you take something classic and blend it with a passion for something different, you can create something new that just might be able to steal the spotlight. I will never be sure if what I love could become a trend. What I do know is that if you love something enough, your passion for it can become infectious. The passion passed on by these winemakers by way of these amazing Napa blends has hit a note with me. They manage to keep their roots in the past, but put a stamp of originality on them to create something great. Now that I think about it, I might have just the right thing to wear with that crazy blazer hiding in my closet.
Holiday gift giving
MADE EASY! Banville & Jones Christmas Baskets and Gifts Sweet Treats – $60.00 Savoury Samples – $60.00 Wine & Cheese – $90.00 Festive Favourites – $130.00 Holiday Reds – $150.00 Decadent Delights – $250.00 2-Bottle Gift Box: Sister Act – $45.00 One-Bottle Gift Bag: Solo Red or Solo White – $20.00 * Custom baskets are also available in-store! * Email us 24/7 at wine@banvilleandjones.com to order your basket. * Next day delivery available on orders over $200 * Detailed descriptions of the baskets can be found on our website: www.banvilleandjones.com
1616 St Mary’s Rd. Winnipeg 204-948-WINE (9463) Regular Hours Monday to Friday 10 am to 8 pm Saturday 10 am to 6 pm Sundays and holidays 11 am to 6 pm Holiday Hours Monday to Saturday 10 am to 9 pm Sundays and holidays 11 am to 6 pm Christmas Eve 10 am to 4 pm Christmas Day Closed Boxing Day 12 pm to 5 pm New Year’s Eve 10 am to 5 pm New Year’s Day Closed
sterling cooper and cab By Andrea Eby, Sommelier (ISG, CSW)
The vineyards of Luis Felipe Edwards, Chile (courtesy of Luis Felipe Edwards)
Elvis. Oprah. Madonna. Prince. Cabernet. Few of us have the star power necessary to pull off the single moniker. There are proliferations of double-barrelled grape varieties out there, but only Cabernet Sauvignon is universally recognized by its first name. So why is it that most of us have heard of Cabernetâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and more importantly, why do most wine newbies feel somewhat compelled to like Cabernet Sauvignon? Is it because we think successful people drink Cab? Or we have the impression that anyone who loves wine should automatically love Cabernet? Maybe. Its steady march toward world domination makes one think that somewhere in Bordeaux there is an army of advertising executives who have devoted their lives to promoting Cabernet Sauvignon. Judging from its current position at the top of the charts, one would assume that Cab (as its known to its close friends) has been around forever, slowly expanding its holdings and buying up real estate around the globe. However, in the context of grape varieties, Cabernet is one of the new kids on the block, having evolved in the 17th century when Bordeaux vignerons noticed a new grape in their fields. At first, such an occurrence likely prompted little more than a few raised eyebrowsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;after all, most grape varieties are quite prone to spontaneous mutations and the occurrence was not uncommon. However, this offspring of Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc was different. A handful of farmers quickly realized that this new grape variety had serious potential. The vines seemed hardier; their grapes had thicker skins and seemed more resistant to rot and frosts. Farmers who saw the potential ripped out existing vineyards and replanted with this new variety.
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UNREAL. Migration Season at FortWhyte Alive
Sunset Goose Flights
Open until Dusk, Wednesday – Sunday, September 18 – October 20 Arrive at FortWhyte 30 minutes before sunset to witness this spectacular migration ritual. Learn about the goose migration during our nightly interpretive presentation. Enjoy a BBQ and concessions available on the south deck of the Interpretive Centre. Admission after 5 pm: Adults: $5 Seniors: $4 Children: $3 Carload: $12
Dinner and a Show
Clockwise from top: The Tolaini Estate vineyards in Tuscany (photo by Tina Jones); Grosset Gaia Vineyard in Clare Valley, Australia (courtesy of Grosset); Majella Cabernet in barrel, South Australia (courtesy of Majella Wines)
For the few visionary vingerons, the decision to re-plant with Cabernet Sauvignon paid off. Soon neighbouring farmers were buying cuttings from the pioneers and Cab’s ascendancy began in earnest. By the middle of the 19th century, Cabernet Sauvignon was ruling the roost in Bordeaux. That is not to say that other grape varieties were not present. Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Carménère, Malbec, and Petit Verdot all shared the stage; however, Cabernet Sauvignon quickly became the star of the show. Trial and error proved that the variety rose to its true potential in the deep gravel bed soils of Bordeaux’s Left Bank. Names such as Château Lafite, Château Latour, and Mouton Rothschild soon became synonymous with the world’s best Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines. As the wine industry grew, so did the quest for the perfect Cabernet Sauvignon. Winemakers around the globe endeavoured to create wines as impressive as those from Bordeaux. New World viticulturists in particular quickly realized that Cabernet Sauvignon was relatively easy to grow and seemed to thrive in a wide variety of soil conditions. Warmer regions such as Napa Valley soon developed a reputation for producing 100% Cabernet wines, considered an anomaly in the cooler, wetter Bordeaux region. These New World versions of Cab tended to be riper, richer, and smoother than their Old World counterparts. At first, critics were skeptical, believing that Bordeaux’s reds could never be rivalled.
Reservations available Wednesday through Sunday, September 21 – October 26 Enjoy spectacular lakeside views of the setting sun and thousands of migrating geese as you dine on a delicious three-course meal prepared by the Buffalo Stone Café. To reserve, call (204) 989-8370 $40/person (includes tax & gratuity)
For Private, Group and Corporate Bookings, please call (204) 989-8353
www.fortwhyte.org/ sunsetgooseflights Sponsored by:
Above: Harvest in the Moone-Tsai vineyards (courtesy of Moone-Tsai Wines)
The 1976 Judgment of Paris competition changed all that. Much to the dismay of critics and some of Bordeaux’s most famous châteaux, a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon was judged to be the top red wine. Suddenly, New World Cab was a force to be reckoned with and the race to supremacy was on. Since 1976, Cabernet’s popularity has continued to grow globally. What Cab lacks in overall acreage, it certainly makes up for in prestige. Some of the world’s most successful wineries owe their fame and fortune to the little grape that could. Proud parents Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc probably never imagined the effect that their romantic liaison would ultimately have on the world of wine. Trendy grape varieties may come and go, but one thing remains constant: there will always be room at the table, and in the cellar, for a nice bottle of Cabernet.
Hailing Cabs around the World COONAWARRA The trifecta of terra rossa soils, accessible underground springs, and cooling ocean breezes all contribute to the formation of world-class Cabernet, famous for its distinctive eucalyptus notes. The Majella Cabernet Sauvignon is the perfect introduction to Coonawarra Cab—a hedonistic powerhouse of cassis, eucalyptus, and toasty oak. Tuscany Italy’s love affair with Cabernet Sauvignon began in Piedmont, where it was originally used as an illegal blending partner to beef up paler Nebbiolo wines, such as Barolo. Cab’s bad boy image continued as it expanded into Tuscany. Winemakers began experimenting by adding Cabernet Sauvigon to their Sangiovese-based wines. The wines were such a success that a new category of wines known as “ Super Tuscans” emerged. For a true taste of “Super Tuscan,” try our very own Tolaini Valdisanti, an alluring combination of New World fruit and Old World structure. Chile Cabernet Sauvignon can be found growing in nearly every South American country, yet few have managed to create as many award-winning examples as Chile. Proficient at producing both boutique bottlings and Cab for the masses, Chile can do it all. Often displaying a unique savoury herbaceousness, Chilean Cabernet is a great pairing for all types of barbequed fare. Treat yourself to the Perez Cruz Liguai from Chile’s Maipo Valley.
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Your table is ready Whether you’re in the mood for an elegant, upscale dining experience, or a quick and convenient meal, Red River College has you covered. Featuring food prepared and served by RRC students, Jane’s restaurant provides an exciting addition to the downtown dining scene, while injecting new vibrancy and life into the Exchange District.
janesrestaurant.ca PH: 204.632.2594
Don’t have time for a sit-down meal at Jane’s? At the Culinary Exchange, you can sample an array of breakfast and lunch specials, as well as a selection of fresh graband-go options, including sandwiches, soups, and salads.
CULINARY EXCHANGE
Le Tre
is
Tina Jones Wi n e S p e c i a lis t
Marisa Curatolo C h e f & F o o d s t y lis t
Pauline Boldt P h o t o g r a p h e r & c r e a t iv e d i r e c t o r
le-tre.com
*
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wine, food & photography
napa valley Le tre is Tina Jones and friends Marisa Curatolo and Pauline Boldt. They create an ongoing resource for simple, elegant experiences: travel, wine insight, recipes and visual inspiration. Le tre recently travelled to the Napa Valley to enjoy a few days of touring, food and wine.
www.banvilleandjones.com 45
For me, Napa Valley is the place I think
There is something wonderful about
of when I think about quality Cabernet
travelling to such a beautiful place, picking
Sauvignon! Napa Cabernet is so full
up a few perfect ingredients for a moveable
and lively; it is complex and velvety;
feast, gathering around a picnic table,
and yet each producerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Napa Cabernet
and enjoying a glass of fine wine produced
has its own identity. And Napa itself
right there!
is all about the quality of each experience. It is a place where the culture is artisanal food, wonderful restaurants, and wine unmatched anywhere. The backdrop is beautiful landscape, vineyards line the roads, there is a natural abundance of great ingredients, and each town has its own special charm. The experience is magical.
The three friends of le tre travelled to the Napa Valley (an easy drive from San Francisco). Marisa organized our market excursion, I arranged for an amazing Cabernet Sauvignon and a picnic table overlooking the valley, and Pauline caught the images of an afternoon of pure luxury. â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Tina Jones
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Foc u s o n Fl avo u r s : Cabernet S au vig n o n an d F r i en d s pl at e
Prime New York steak, Parisian gnocchi, carrots, parmesan, snap peas, sauce Bordelaise
wine Tamber Bey 2008 Deux Cheveaux Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, USA $59.99
Redd Restaurant, Yountville Napa Valley
Pepper-crusted filet medallions, truffle shoestring fries
Moone-Tsai 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, USA $98.99
Market Restaurant, St. Helena
Funghi crimini, shiitake and beach mushrooms pizza
Tolaini 2008 Valdisanti Tuscany, Italy $49.99
Tra Vigne Restaurant, St. Helena
Superior farm lamb, garden squash, pepper condimento, eggplant, medjool dates
Moss Wood 2011 Amyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Blend Cabernet Sauvignon, Western Australia $41.99
Farm Restaurant, Carneros Inn, Napa valley
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2012-12-19 9:17 AM
gluggy By Rob Stansel
The Glugger’s Guide to Mulling Winter will soon be upon us, dear gluggers, and so we must turn our attention to a most pressing matter: keeping warm. Thankfully, wine can help, and warm wine is even more helpful. Welcome to Mulling 101. Those of you that prefer to discern the terroir in your glass need not apply. Mulling, to the certified wine nerd, is a kind of blasphemy. “If the winemaker wanted her wine to taste like cinnamon, she would have tossed a few sticks into the fermentation tank,” such a person might argue. Indeed, it should come as no surprise that this rather simple act of warming, spicing, and sweetening one’s wine is less popular in France than in Scandinavia, where it is affectionately known as glögg (pronounced “gloog”), and amongst the English, who seem to have no problem serving their Cabernet with a cardamom pod or two, ladled into a plastic cup, with a dash of sloe gin and a stray piece of tinsel. So let the purists bah-humbug about the corrupting influence of cinnamon sticks. Mulling isn’t for everyone, but it’s certainly for the merry. In Frank Capra’s It’s a Wonderful Life, the bartender at Nick’s is somewhat taken aback by a request for mulled wine, “heavy on the cinnamon, and light on the cloves.” An optimistic angel’s tipple, the film suggests; cynics like George Bailey will take their Bourbon doubled, and fast. Dickens, too, a century before, thought that a “bowl of Smoking Bishop”—a Victorian take on mulled port—would be the perfect drink for a converted Ebenezer Scrooge to sip on at the end of A Christmas Carol. It’s heart warming, literally. And if there’s something particularly festive about mulling, gluggers rejoice, because there’s something particularly thrifty about it too: there’s no need to break the bank on a bottle when it’s bound for the saucepan. Mulling is quite simple, really. Most recipes call for a bottle of hearty red; an assortment of sweet spices such as
cinnamon, cardamom, cloves, and nutmeg, even a vanilla pod or star anise, if you like; a hearty scoop of sugar (caramelized, preferably); and a choice bit of fruit. Citrus is no friend to mulling, some will say, but other mullers disagree. Modern foodies might flock to Jamie Oliver’s recipe, which calls for clementines, lemon, and lime. Traditionalists might prefer to stick to Mrs. Beeton’s recipe from her 1869 Book of Household Management, which dispenses with the citrus but recommends serving one’s wine “with strips of crisp dry toast”—an English food pairing if there ever was one. Toast or tinsel, a dash of cinnamon or none at all: this holiday season, gluggers who wish to be mullers should experiment festively and often. Banville & Jones’s wine experts will be happy to help you select the right bottle.
MULLED WINE ON HAND If DIY mulling isn’t your style, that’s okay! Banville & Jones carries a Winter Sangria ($15.99 for 1.5L)—mulled wine in all but name— that’s sure to please. Spanish winery Bodega Sanviver was named “Hot Brand of 2012” by Impact Databank, a leading beverage brand analyst. (If you had a glass or two or three of their summer brew—you know, that bright yellow box you came looking for in May that had a permanent place in your refrigerator from June until September— then you’ll know why!) The winter brew is equally tasty, but it’s infectiously fragrant too, with baking-spice scents reminiscent of Christmas cake. At your next holiday party, drain a bottle or two into your slow cooker and bring it up to a simmer on low heat; the aromas that waft out of your kitchen will have your guests coming back for another plastic cupful or three.
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Ph
oto
s by
Ian M cCausland
Wine & Food Evening Banville & Jones invites you to join us for a new series of wine and food pairing! Our talented Sommeliers work with Winnipeg’s most talented chefs to create the ultimate pairing experience. Cost: $79.99 per person Friday, October 4: Terrace in the Park Sunday, October 27: Peasant Cookery Thursday, November 7: All Seasons Thursday, January 9: Bistro 7 ¼ Saturday, January 18: The Current (downstairs) Friday, January 24: Elements Sunday, February 2: Peasant Cookery Saturday, February 8: Terrace in the Park (downstairs) Thursday, February 13: Amici Restaurant Thursday, February 20: Wasabi Sabi
banville & jones
wine & food
events schedule october 2013 through january 2014
le tre: An Evening of Wine, Food, and Photography Store owner Tina Jones, chef Marisa Curatolo, and photographer Pauline Boldt have teamed up as “le tre” to bring together their three art forms in a memorable evening of education, laughter, friendship, and, of course, amazing food and wine! Cost: $100.00 per person Thursday, January 23
Cooking Class Learn from the best! Banville & Jones Sommeliers team up with Winnipeg’s premier chefs to share recipes and wine pairings. Cost: $89.99 per person Thursday, October 24: Elements Friday, January 10: Cafe Savour Thursday, January 30: Rembrandt’s Bistro Wednesday, February 26: Bistro 7 ¼
Luxury Tasting Taste the luxury when our Sommeliers open the doors to our specialities cabinets to explore some of Banville & Jones’s exclusive treasures. Cost: $99.00 per person Friday, November 1: Old and New World Collide! Friday, January 17: New Year, New Flavours Saturday, February 15: Soulmates: Perfect Blends (In The Cave!)
Click on the Taste and Learn tab at www.banvilleandjones.com for updated information on Food and Wine Events. To reserve a space or book a private wine tasting event, call 948-WINE • Tickets for events are non-refundable, but are exchangeable 14 days prior to the event. • Events begin at 7 pm unless otherwise noted. • Prices do not include taxes.
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unforgettable. spicy mango prawns
Happy hour at Wasabi Sabi Monday to Friday, 3pm â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 6pm. Also enjoy Oyster Nights at Wasabi on Broadway every Tuesday night and Happy Hour at Wasabi Sushi Bistro every night starting at 10 pm. For complete menus visit wasabigroup.com.
Wasabi on Broadway 588 Broadway Avenue 204.774.4328
Wasabi Sushi Bistro 105-121 Osborne Street 204.474.2332
Wasabi Sabi 3-1360 Taylor Avenue 204.415.7878
banville & jones
wine institute WE’RE 10 YEARS OLD... and growing We have realized our goal to be the leader of wine education in Winnipeg for everyone from the keenly inquisitive to the aspiring professional Sommelier, and our efforts continue. We have groomed new instructors, diversified our programs, and created new educational alliances. Graduates of our programs are shaping the Manitoba wine scene. Our diploma graduates hold influential positions within the hospitality industry throughout the province.
MANITOBA’S NEWEST SOMMELIERS The class of 2013 Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers completed their program early this summer. Nine months of intense study, tasting, assignments, and exams; 60 hours of hands-on service; and a tough final certification exam on theory, blind tasting, and service have honed the skills of a band of intrepid new Sommeliers. Our February issue of The Cellar Door will celebrate Winnipeg’s newest Sommeliers!
NEW RED RIVER COLLEGE-BJWI ALLIANCE RRC’s new School of Hospitality and Culinary Arts facility, which includes Jane’s Restaurant in the Paterson GlobalFoods Institute, along with the appointment of Keith Muller as Dean, have raised the school’s profile and renewed excitement in Manitoba’s food scene. RRC recognized BJWI as the industry leader in the field of wine education by inviting us to join the Hospitality and Culinary Arts program starting in fall of 2013. Instructors from BJWI have created an exclusive wine appreciation and service course spanning semesters over the two-year RRC program of study. The program will provide students with the essential knowledge of wine needed in today’s hospitality world. Upon completion, students may choose to demonstrate their high level of knowledge by writing a WSET® certification exam through the Banville and Jones Wine Institute.
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WINE APPRECIATION: BASICS PROGRAMS Wine Basics, Level 1
Beyond Basics, Level 2
This course is for anyone who enjoys wine and wants to know more. The two evenings focus on: tasting wines from major grape varieties, putting words to wine tastes, discovering how quality affects price, navigating restaurant wine lists, and the basics of food and wine. Classes run 7:00 to 9:00 pm in the Tuscan Room of Banville & Jones. Course offerings: October 3 & 10 (Thursdays) or January 15th & 22nd (Wednesdays) or February 12th & 19th (Wednesdays) Cost: $79.00, plus GST
An intermediate course that builds on the knowledge gained in Level 1. This course covers: why place matters: tasting through the world’s main wine regions; as well as sparkling, Champagne, Ports and fortified wines. Four nights of classes run 7:00 to 9:00 pm in the Tuscan Room of Banville & Jones. Course offerings: October 16 to November 6 (Wednesdays) Cost: $159.00, plus GST
Gift cards are available for Banville & Jones Basics classes.
CERTIFICATION PROGRAMS Wine Specialist 100 (No prerequisite: acceptance on a first-come basis) WS 100 is an entry-level program for wine enthusiasts and for people interested in restaurant, hospitality, and wine trade vocations. Based on the world-renowned WSET® Level 2 Award in Wines & Spirits, the program also includes basic instruction in restaurant wine service. Topics include the WSET® Level 2 Systematic Approach to Tasting; significant grape varieties; factors that influence wine styles; major wine regions; sparkling, sweet and fortified wines; spirits; food with wine matching; and basic wine service. WS 100 is the first of two prerequisites for the BJWI-CAPS Professional Sommelier Program. Duration: 2.5 hours, once a week for 8 weeks, 6:30 to 9:00 pm, plus a 1.5 hour exam on the 9th week. Course offerings: starting January 6, 2014 (Mondays) or April 7, 2014 (Mondays) Cost: $600 plus GST
Wine Steward 200 (Prerequisites: WS 100; WSET® Level 2 Award in Wines & Spirits; ISG 1: acceptance on a first-come basis) WS 200 is an advanced-level program for wine enthusiasts and for people interested in restaurant, hospitality, and wine trade vocations. Based on the world renowned WSET® Level 3 Award in Wines & Spirits, the program also includes intermediate instruction in restaurant wine service. WSET® Level 3 builds on the topics of WSET® Level 2 to create a greater depth of knowledge and experience. WS 200 is the second of two prerequisites for the BJWI-CAPS Professional Sommelier Program. Duration: 2.5 hours, once a week for 18 weeks, 6:30 to 9:00 pm Course offering: starting September 15, 2014 (Mondays) Cost: $1,200 plus GST
BJWI Professional Sommelier Program—CAPS Certified (Prerequisites: WS 200; or WSET® Level 3 Award in Wines & Spirits; or ISG 2: acceptance based on individual applications) The PSP is an in-depth, rigorous, and challenging program recognized by the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers (CAPS), a nation member of ASI (Association de la Sommellerie Internationale). The course is built upon six modules: Production Methods, Sensory and Wine Styles, Wines of the Old World, Wines of the New World, Spirits and Other Beverages, and Sommelier Management. Students must also arrange a stage consisting of 60 hours of practical experience under supervision in a restaurant-hospitality environment. Upon successful completion of coursework and stage, students may challenge the CAPS Sommelier Certification Exam to obtain their professional Sommelier designation. Offerings: A PSP was finished in June 2013: the next PSP start date is TBA. Cost: $3,250 plus GST
Register for all courses at Banville & Jones, 204-948-WINE (9463) or inquire at bjwi@banvilleandjones.com. For full course descriptions, visit banvilleandjones.com and click on Taste and Learn.
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TOLAINI
DIEGO BONATO GM AND WINEMAKER
TOLAINI ESTATES TUSCANY
THE WINES OF TOLAINI ESTATES ARE AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY AT
BANVILLE & JONES WINE CO. BANVILLEANDJONES.COM • 204.948.9463
Photo by Carol Fletcher
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By Sylvia Jansen, Sommelier (ISG, CMS), CSW
overdressed? There was a time not so long ago, when it was stylish to impart “oak character” into many wines, both fine and ordinary. Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Chardonnay, anonymous blends from anywhere—these were marketed as having “oak influence” or “a touch of oak.” Oak was the extra dressing that went onto wines before going out to market. This was also the time when “oak character” became synonymous with “high quality.” In other words, oak was good. Then we fell out of love with oak. We wanted to be done with the added dressing. Chardonnay wines began to show up on retail shelves and restaurant wine lists as “unwooded” or “unoaked.” A whole new line of wines, red and white, bragged about being lovely because they were “naked.” In other words, oak was bad. So what is a wine lover to think? The fact is that oak has been used in winemaking for hundreds of years. Oak has the happy combination of being supple enough to bend into shape (such as a barrel or large cask); hard enough to be durable over many uses; and watertight enough not to leak (glue is not even required between staves of a barrel). Oak barrels or tanks can be made in many sizes: as small as 225 litres, or even smaller, or as large as 30,000-litre casks. Coopers finish barrels by “toasting” the insides, in part to add another taste dimension. Winemakers can order their barrels with light toast (to impart more woody, “oaky” character into the wine) or heavy toast (to impart spicy, toasty, espresso-like character). Oak can make a fine wine even finer. The subtle interchange of oxygen with wine through the walls of the barrel, the softening of harsh young red wine tannins,
and (where the wood is new) the added character of toast, spice, vanilla, and other flavours from the barrel, all add something to the finished wine. Over the course of an aging period (sometimes several years), oak aging can lend a mellow, smooth mouthfeel and complexity to a wine. This aging is an important reason why the vintage date on a quality red wine is a few years behind the same producer’s white wine. The character of wine that has undergone oak aging is difficult to achieve through any other method. Mind you, people try. “A touch of oak” can be achieved by using staves of oak secured inside a stainless steel fermentation tank, lending a bit of oak character without the expense, and admittedly without the subtle influences of the barrel. The same can be said for throwing oak chips into a fermentation tank. Think about the bargain Chardonnay that promises “oak influence.” Chances are that wine did not spend six months, or even five minutes, in a $1,000 oak barrel. Oak or no oak? Well, the answer to this question, like the answer to most wine questions, is that it depends. Some wines are best without ever seeing oak—just ask any Riesling lover. But some wines are positively magical with it. The star of this issue, Cabernet Sauvignon, is one of these. With its deep colour, aromatic fruit, and high tannin levels, quality Cabernet Sauvignon loves to relax for a year or two in small oak barrels, becoming beautiful by dressing down the rough edges and dressing up the spice and smoothness. The effect can be a lovely wine that shows up for the party dressed stylishly, without being either naked or overdressed. So here’s to you, stylishly. www.banvilleandjones.com 57
culinary partners 529 Wellington serves only Canadian Prime beef and fresh seafood, with impeccable service in an elegantly restored 1912 mansion on the banks of the Assiniboine River. Celebrating its 10th Anniversary, 529 has quickly become a world-renowned icon in the restaurant industry. An exquisite menu and extensive wine cellar make for truly memorable food and wine experiences at 529. Just ask Brad Pitt or Jennifer Lopez! 529 Wellington Crescent 204.487.8325
Chef Louise Briskie-de Beer and partner Faiz de Beer love to share the fruits of their travels by bringing global cuisine with Manitoba flare to your palate. Cafe Savour’s atmosphere is as unique and delightful as the food, perfect for an intimate, formal dinner for two or a group of friends out to enjoy a casual evening of relaxing laughter. Open Thursday, Friday, and Saturday starting at 5:30 for dinner. 956 St Mary’s Road 204.254.4681
Step’N Out is the most uniquely intimate restaurant sur le boulevard in St. Boniface. The rich décor, personalized hand-written menu board, innovative cuisine, and wine list are inspiring and romantic, making loyal patrons out of most every visitor for 13 years. As Marion Warhaft of the Winnipeg Free Press noted, “Everything about the place is five stars.” 157 Provencher Boulevard 204.956.7837
Winnipeg’s premier sushi destination: Wasabi Sabi. For a bite of lunch onthe-go, or a long, lingering meal at the chef’s table, the Wasabi Group offers unforgettable sushi, appetizers, entrées, drink specials, and desserts. Visit Wasabi Sabi for Happy Hour, Monday to Saturday, 3 pm–6 pm and choose from tuna nachos, spicy mango prawns, tuna goma ae, pizza sushi, assorted tempura or ginger crème brûlée, just to name a few. 3-1360 Taylor Ave 204.415.7878
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With a bright, sunny view of The Forks, The Current is the perfect place to wind down after work or host visiting guests to the city. Experience a deliciously Canadian gourmet menu, complimented by an award-winning wine list. The lounge also offers live Jazz Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings. 75 Forks Market Road 204.922.2445
Amici at Niakwa Golf and CC Amici Restaurant Bistro 7 ¼ Blaze Bistro Bombolini Brooklynn’s Bistro Café 22 Café Dario Chew Diana’s Pizza Elements Elkhorn Resort Earl’s Restaurant and Bar Fitzroy Greenwood Inn & Suites Horfrost
Chef partner Tristan Foucault has reinvented the menu on the corner of King and Bannatyne. Peasant Cookery goes back to the land with uniquely prepared Old World dishes and top-notch service. This is real food, freshly harvested, and the seasonal ingredients speak for themselves. Literally everything is made from scratch by Tristan and his team. 100-283 Bannatyne Avenue 204.989.7700
Step into the Atrium of the Assiniboine Park Pavilion and you will find yourself in the warm and inviting atmosphere of Terrace Restaurant. Chef Resch and WOW! Hospitality offer a one-of-a-kind seafood experience to Winnipeg: the very best quality fish and shellfish that have been harvested using sustainable, environmentally friendly methods. Unit B - 55 Pavilion Cr 204.938.7275
Hotel Fort Garry and Ten Spa Hy’s Steakhouse Jane’s Restaurant and Red River College Joey Kenaston Joey Polo Park Joey’s Only Seafood Le Cercle Molière Los Chicos Restaurante Y Cantina Mano a Mano/Teo’s Market Burger Mulligan’s Restaurant and Lounge Olive Garden Italian Restaurant Pizzeria Gusto
Purple Hibiscus Rembrandt’s Bistro Sabai Thai Segovia Southwood Golf and Country Club South Beach Casino & Resort St. Charles Country Club Sukhothai Swiss Chalet The Velvet Glove at the Fairmont TR McCoy’s Italian Restaurant The Victoria Inn Tony Roma’s Urban Prairie Cuisine
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MAKE GROWTH THE OXYGEN OF YOUR BUSINESS. LANCE HURTUBISE President and CEO, Vintage Group
BUSINESS BANKING IS ABOUT A SHARED PERSPECTIVE. At Canadian Western Bank, we see the world the same way as our clients. As a result, we take the time to understand your business and provide banking solutions suited to your business needs. Discover insights and learn more at theworkingbank.ca.
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Winnipeg Kenaston
230 Portage Avenue Winnipeg, MB R3C 0B1 (204) 956 - 4669
125 Nature Park Way Winnipeg, MB R3P OY6 (204) 452 - 0939
pURChaSe yoUR WIne onLIne Too busy to stop by? We can help! http://www.banvilleandjones.conervine.com Contact us before 10aM, and we will deliver to your doorstep that same day!
delivery is available within city limits Monday to Saturday from noon to 5 PM, and is free for orders of $200 or more before tax. For information about registering for Cornervine, contact banville & Jones wine Co. at 204.948.9463.
shopping list All the top 50 Cabernet Sauvignons listed on pages 22–24 are available at Banville & Jones. Ask a Banville & Jones wine expert to recommend their favourite off the list! Bennett Lane 2008 Maximus Napa Valley, USA $51.99….........................................................................................................38 Billecart-Salmon nv Brut Reserve Champagne, France $64.99...................................................................................................14 Blackbird 2009 Arise Napa Valley, USA $66.99…....................................................................................................................38 Blue Mountain 2011 Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley, Canada $31.99.........................................................................................14 Bodegas Munoz 2011 Artero Macabeo La Manca, Spain $10.99...............................................................................................62 Bodega Sanviver nv Lolailo Winter Sangria, Spain $15.99........................................................................................................51 Bodega Torre San Millan 2011 Gorrebusto Tempranillo Rioja, Spain $11.99...............................................................................62 Bon Cap 2012 The Ruins Chardonnay Viognier Robertson, South Africa $14.99…...............................................................62 Bon Courage 2013 Unwooded Chardonnay Robertson, South Africa $14.99.......................................................................…62 Chartonge-Taillet nv Heurtebise Brut Blanc de Blancs Merfy Champagne, France $78.99........................................................14 Coriole 2011 Redstone McLaren Vale, Australia $21.99…........................................................................................................30 DFJ Vinhos 2011 Red Vega Douro, Portugal $12.99….........................................................................................................62 Falernia 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Elqui Valley, Chile $12.99…................................................................................................30 Hendry Vineyards 2007 Red Wine Napa Valley, USA $55.99….................................................................................................38 Hill Family 2011 Barrel Blend Napa Valley, USA $31.99…......................................................................................................38 Hewitt 2007 Rutherford, Napa Valley, USA $85.99…..........................................................................................................30 Laurenz V. 2011 Friendly Grüner Veltliner Vienna, Austria $19.99…........................................................................................14 Les Domaines Auriol Fine Wines nv So Light Merlot France $13.99…....................................................................................14 Les Domaines Auriol Fine Wines nv So Light Terret Blanc/Sauvignon Blanc France $13.99…....................................................14 Majella 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra, Australia $47.99…...................................................................................34, 42 Majella 2011 The Musician Cabernet/Shiraz Coonawarra, Australia $24.99….......................................................................34 Majella 2008 The Malleea Cabernet/Shiraz Coonawarra, Australia $79.99…........................................................................34 Miranda Wines 2010 Summer Hues Shiraz Victoria, Australia $17.99….....................................................................................14 Miranda Wines 2011 Summer Hues Sauvignon Blanc Victoria, Australia $17.99…...................................................................14 Montalto 2010 Nero d’Avola Sicily, Italy $11.99…................................................................................................................62 Moon-Tsai 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, USA $98.99…...........................................................................................49 Moss Wood 2011 Amy’s Blend Australia $41.99......................................................................................................................49 Perez Cruz 2007 Liguai Maipo Valley, Chile $47.99…............................................................................................................42 Ployez-Jacquemart 2005 Extra Brut Champagne, France $85.99…............................................................................................14 Quintessa 2007 Rutherford, Napa Valley, USA $219.99….......................................................................................................38 Rabl 2011 Spiegel Grüner Veltliner Kamptal, Langenlois, Austria $23.99…...............................................................................14 Screenplay 2009 Red Wine Napa Valley, USA $66.99…........................................................................................................38 Tamber Bey 2008 Deux Cheveaux Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, USA $59.99….............................................................49 Tolaini 2008 Valdisanti Tuscany, Italy $49.99…..............................................................................................................10, 42, 49 Ventisquero 2011 Reserva Pinot Noir, Chile $12.99…...............................................................................................................14
Due to the nature of the wine industry, any prices and vintages listed in this publication, as well as the availability of the product, are subject to change and cannot be guaranteed by Banville & Jones Wine Co.
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* CUSTOMER PICK *
top picks
Gerry Hochman
Rebecca Lechman
Jen Brownridge
DFJ Vinhos 2011 Red Vega Douro, Portugal $12.99
Bodegas Munoz 2011 Artero Macabeo La Manca, Spain $10.99
Montalto 2010 Nero d’Avola Sicily, Italy $11.99
Finding a well-balanced wine that works with or without food and isn’t one-dimensional is difficult. Finding one for $12.99 is even more rare. This Portuguese palate pleaser is rich and full-bodied, yet smooth and not too heavy. It blends Touriga Nacional with Touriga Francca and Tinta Roriz, added for their aromatics and structure. Great as “your” house wine or for any occasion!
Famous for its role in the production of Cava, the Macabeo grape stands alone in this wine to produce a lovely little budget-friendly white. Lots of apricot, citrus, and floral notes combine with good acidity to make it an easy sipper. It’s a perfect pairing for a relaxed autumn night at home with some snacks, a comfy blanket, and a movie.
This superb Nero d’Avola is from the Agrigento Hills in Sicily. Cassis, black pepper, and tart blackberries round out this rustic Italian classic. A fantastic food wine, it pairs perfectly with aged cheese and the heartiest winter fare. The Montalto Nero d’Avola is a terrific value and will be a great addition to your holiday entertaining.
Jennifer Battcock
Dylan Keats
Sylvia Jansen
Bon Cap 2012 The Ruins Chardonnay Viognier Robertson, South Africa $14.99
Bodega Torre San Millan 2011 Gorrebusto Tempranillo Rioja, Spain $11.99
Bon Courage 2013 Unwooded Chardonnay Robertson, South Africa $14.99
Bon Cap Organic Wine Cellars has been growing grapes for over 70 years, and produced their first wine in 2002. This unoaked wine is made with 53% Chardonnay and 47% Viognier, and offers the fresh flavours of apples, peaches, and honey. Malolactic fermentation introduces a creamy mid palate with a long, lingering finish.
The beautiful cherry red colour and intense floral aromas of this Tempranillo are followed by delicious red fruit flavours with just the right amount of spice. A great sipping wine, this Spanish red is also very food friendly. Bring it out on your next BBQ night.
From a great producer in Robertson, South Africa, this is a beautiful, fresh wine, with lots of personality for the price. With tropical and citrus tones, good weight, and balanced acidity, this gem will be enjoyable with anything from Thai lettuce wraps to pork roast.
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MARIC HOMES 339-2035 • marichomes.com
CHBA 2012 NATIONAL SAM AWARD WINNER