The Cellar Door: Issue 13. The Central Coast, California Dreamin' by Vanessa Shapiro

the

Cellar Door Wi n e and p ossi b i l i t ies by Banville & Jone s Wine Co.

THE CENTRAL COAST

California Dreamin'

Issue 13 October 2012 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; January 2013 www.banvilleandjones.com 1

California in every sip.

The sunshine does its part. Then we do ours. Welcome to California’s Central Coast – home of Sterling Vintner’s Collection.

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contents 25

Features

25 Eureka! Discovering California’s Central Coast Mike Muirhead gives you the lay of the land in California’s Central Coast wine region.

36 Loving Life in Paso Saralyn Mehta and Sylvia Jansen share their Paso Robles experience—with a little side trip to Santa Barbara’s Vintners’ Festival Weekend with Jill Kwiatkoski.

41 The Language of Wine: An Interview with Randall Grahm Gary Hewitt picks the brain of one of the Central Coast’s most innovative and experimental winemakers.

Cover: Dinner and wine at Chateau Julien Wine Estates, Carmel, CA. Photo by Randy Tunnell, courtesy of Chateau Julien Wine Estates.

www.banvilleandjones.com 5

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contents Columns 10 A Message from Tina Jones 15 Ask a Sommelier 18 Grapevine 20 Banville & Jones and Company 20

23 Behind the Label: Tablas Creek 28 Garyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Corner

Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s your phenotype?

30 Trending The new reign of Spain.

34 CornerVine Your step-by-step guide.

44 Banville & Jones Wine and Food Events Schedule 47 Holiday Gift Giving 48 Gluggy Little brother, big brother.

50 Banville & Jones Wine Institute 52 Culinary Partners 55 Test Kitchen The perfect meal and wine pairings for your holiday guests.

59 Sidebar Holiday Dinner

60 Shopping List 62 Holiday Picks

www.banvilleandjones.com 7

the

Cellar Door

DISCOVER THE

in the value of relationships. Our success is a result of your success.

EXPERIENCE

We believe

Publisher and Marketing Director Megan Kozminski megan@poisepublications.com Editorial Director Lisa Muirhead lisa@poisepublications.com Art Director Aubrey Amante, CR3ATIVE cr3ativegraphics@gmail.com Sales Associate Vanessa Shapiro vanessa@poisepublications.com

Contributors Tina Jones, Todd Antonation, Andrea Eby, Carol Fletcher, Traci Friesen, Sarah Kenyon, Jennifer Hiebert, Gary Hewitt, Sylvia Jansen, Jill Kwiatkoski, Jessica Lane, Pauline Lomax, Lynne Mavens, Ian McCausland, Saralyn Mehta, Mike Muirhead, Rob Stansel, Rick Watkins Published for Banville & Jones Wine Co. by Poise Publications Inc. 101-478 River Ave, Suite 707 Winnipeg, MB R3L 0B3 poisepublications.com

For advertising information, please contact megan@poisepublications.com Banville & Jones Wine Co. is a fine wine boutique in Winnipeg, Manitoba that specializes in promoting wine education and lifestyle. Opened by sisters Tina Jones and Lia Banville in 1999, it is located in a three-storey Tuscan-inspired facility that houses fine wine and accessories, an educational facility, and a private function room. Banville & Jones Wine Co. 1616 St Maryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Rd. Winnipeg, MB R2M 3W7 ph. 204-948-9463 banvilleandjones.com banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

710 Corydon Avenue Winnipeg, MB R3M 0X9 PHONE FAX

204 992.7200 204 992.7208

info@mgroup.ca

www.mgroup.ca

Printed in Canada by Transcontinental

HOPEFA MILYWINES SIN CE 1978 TREANA

LIBERTY SCHOOL

AUSTIN HOPE

WESTSIDE RED

PASO ROBLES, CALIFORNIA

w w w. h o p e f a m i l y w i n e s . c o m

CANDOR

Photo by Joel Ross Studios

a message from tina jones MY FAVES Less than a day after arriving in Santa Barbara I can recall thinking to myself, “My gosh—I cannot believe we have not visited here before!” Santa Barbara lives up to its nickname of the “American Riviera.” A beautiful climate, cultured arts scene, sophisticated wines, fabulous restaurants, and relaxed shopping are all within easy reach. It is a place where people carrying their surfboards stroll casually past upscale art galleries, all under towering palm trees framed by the blue sky. Santa Barbara is near the southern end of the fabulous California region known as the Central Coast. While the movie Sideways made its fame (and made Pinot Noir even more famous), the region between Los Angeles and San Francisco has been producing wonderful wines for a long time. And travel through the region is a delight! I invite you to travel with us to this magical place on our own continent! In this issue, Sylvia Jansen and Saralyn Mehta compare notes on their independent travels to Paso Robles; Gary Hewitt talks to the quintessential California wine pioneer, Randall Grahm; and Mike Muirhead explores the the wine, weather, and diversity of the Central Coast. Finally, on this page you will see what will now be a regular feature: “My Faves,” which includes some of my favourite highlights of the Central Coast! Salut!

Tina Jones

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1. Pierre Lafond Wine Bistro, Santa Barbara: A showcase for great wine and culinary art (516 State Street, pierrelafond.com) 2. Canary Santa Barbara Hotel: A boutique hotel, smack dab in the middle of town, with great ambiance and a rooftop pool (31 West Carrillo, canarysantabarbara.com) 3. Wine Cask Restaurant, Santa Barbara: In the historic El Paseo complex, and reputed to have the best wine list in town with beautiful food and wonderful service to match (819 Anacapa Street, winecask.com) 4. Santa Barbara Urban Wine Trail: A cluster of wineries in the neighbourhood known as the “Funk Zone” make great wine tourism accessible on foot and in town! (urbanwinetrailsb.com) 5. A self-guided Red Tile Walking Tour, Santa Barbara: Touching many of the city’s landmarks, strolling past unique shops, galleries and restaurants 6. 17-Mile Drive: Running along the coast through Pacific Grove to Pebble Beach, between Monterey and Carmel. Vistas, legendary sites, sea lions, and golf greens are a treat!

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ask a sommelier My wife has become sensitive to sulphites. I understand that some eco-friendly or organic white wines are sulphite free. Are there any great wines that are sulphite free? —Cheeraz Fouad Dear Cheeraz, Sulphites are a natural byproduct of yeast fermentation. Sulphites may also be added at all stages of production, from the vineyard to the bottle, to stop oxidation and keep fermentation clean (unwanted microbial activity makes good wine go very bad). Therefore, essentially all wines contain some level of sulphites. The terms “biodynamic” and “organic” do not necessarily mean that less sulphur is used in the winemaking process; these refer only to how the grapes have been grown. Some wines will have lower sulphite levels: look for the term “no sulphites added” or even “organic wine” (as opposed to organically grown grapes). If you are looking for a wine that advertises “no sulphites added,” we carry one in the store: Temple Bruer Shiraz (Australia). I also recommend Jonc Blanc (France) and Philippe Gilbert (France) wines for their minimalist sulphite additions. We are always learning about wines we carry—come and ask any of our wine experts who are familiar with wine production for their own recommendations. —Saralyn Mehta What does it mean when something is “estate bottled”? —Bea Spence

market, the term “estate bottled” (or its equivalent) has legal force (slightly different in different countries) and is an additional piece of information for the wine lover. “Estate bottled” has a specific meaning in some jurisdictions. In the United States, an estate bottled wine must come from the winery’s own vineyards, or at least from vineyards over which the winery has significant lease and control. In many jurisdictions, an estate bottled wine must be bottled on the estate before it leaves the property.

The French equivalent for “estate bottled” is “mis en bouteille au château” or “au domaine” or “à la propriété.” The Germans use the terms Erzeugerabfüllung or Gutsabfüllung, with similar meanings.

meant for early consumption that sell in large volume. If you are looking for a broader range of wine styles, there are many excellent wines in bottle format, sometimes from lesserknown regions, with similar pricing to boxed wines.

These terms are all intended by producers to signal to the consumer: “I grew the grapes; I was responsible for the harvest; I made the wine, and bottled it myself. Enjoy.”

Is there an appreciable difference in quality between reasonably priced boxed and bottled wines?

If you like a wine that is available in bag-in-box and intend to drink it in the near future, this format is an excellent option: it is usually a bit less expensive, has a lower overall environmental impact, and has the advantage of collapsing during pouring so as to exclude air that can rapidly oxidize the wine. It is perfect for the glass-a-day drinker.

—John Ford

—Gary Hewitt

The short answer is that boxed wines can be of comparable quality for

If you have a question for our Sommeliers, visit us at www.banvilleandjones.com/cellar.aspx

—Sylvia Jansen

Dear Bea, In the past, wines were often shipped from the producer in bulk, and merchants bottled the wine (sometimes blending it beyond recognition). Often, the merchant’s name was more prominent on the label than the producer’s, if the producer’s name appeared at all. In today’s wine

their price, but the selection of wines is limited. Direct tasting comparisons of the same wine recently “bottled” under cork and in bag-in-box actually favour the bag-in-box format. The difference arises because of quality control issues with corks that negatively impact the taste of a small percentage of “cork finished” wines. However, the shelf life of bag-in-box wines is much shorter (6–12 months) due to oxygen ingress through the bag walls or the spout. For this reason, bag-in-box wines are usually consumer-friendly styles

Dear John,

www.banvilleandjones.com 15

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grapevine BANVILLE & JONES’S INSIDER TIPS ON WINE AND FOOD TRENDS

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Arkadash Bistro and Lounge has brought new life to a classic Winnipeg destination on Portage Avenue. Join Winnipeg’s Kelvin Peters and Chef Karen Peters for the newest experience in Mediterranean dining.

Discover Pinello frizzante, a semi-sparkling white from an ancient northern Italian grape variety. Fizzy, light, fresh, and fantastic: try Callegaro Francesca 2011 Antichi Reassi Pinello today!

Tina Jones would like to share something with you: the perfect cup of espresso. The illy Y1.1 Touch ($450.00) is calibrated to deliver the best single or double shot of espresso from the best coffee producer in Italy—every time.

Looking for organic Canadian cheeses? In the Banville & Jones’s gourmet food section, you will find several varieties of Quebecois L’Ancêtre cheeses, including aged cheddar, Parmesan, and creamy goat cheese. Modern technology meets traditional farming methods to create the 2011 winner of the Canadian Cheese Grand Prix.

Hy’s Steakhouse recently introduced iPad wine lists that can be arranged to suit diners’ needs by style, country, grape variety, or price. The list integrates with the restaurant point-of-sale and inventory systems, meaning that “out-of-stock” just got dropped from your server’s vocabulary.

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You can now post your CornerVine reviews in your Facebook feed. See page 44 for more CornerVine tips, or come into the store for a demonstration by one of our wine experts.

North America’s love affair with Pinot Noir has proven more than a one-night stand. Classic Pinot Noir as red Burgundy or as New World versions from California, Australia, New Zealand, and Canada are growing ever more popular with wine lovers.

Banville & Jones is excited to be working with The Velvet Glove at The Fairmont to help create a stellar wine list in a premier hotel destination! To celebrate this partnership, The Velvet Glove will be hosting a Winemaker’s Dinner featuring the wines of Tolaini Estates on October 25. See page 44 for details.

Amici Restaurant has opened a second location at Niakwa Country Club, bringing the signature North Italian cuisine that has made them a Winnipeg icon for more than two decades to Winnipeg’s South end.

Lolailo Winter Sangria ($7.99) will be hitting our shelves at the end of November! Winter Sangria combines the fruit flavours of sangria with the warm, aromatic spices of winter. Imagine a classic mulled wine— with a little Flamenco added!

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Friends of Banville & Jones: 1. Dean Hewitson and Gary Hewitt at Hewitson Estate Winery in Barossa Valley, South Australia; 2. Sylvia Jansen with Tommy Oldre of Tablas Creek Vineyard in Paso Robles; 3. Friends of Banville & Jones at the Some Young Punks Winemakerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Dinner; 4. Lisa Muirhead and Megan Kozminski of Poise Publications Inc., and Jill Kwiatkoski of Banville & Jones accept the People's Choice Award for The Cellar Door at the 2012 Manitoba Magazine Awards 5. Tina Jones congratulates Vic Leggero on his retirement after 12 years of service at Banville & Jones Wine Co.; 6. Justin Smith of Saxum Vineyards with Mike Muirhead in Paso Robles; 7. Jill Kwiatkoski in the Tempranillo vineyards of Hacienda Albae in the La Mancha region of Spain; 8. Tina Jones, Colin McBryde, Mike Jones and Jackie Stephen at the Some Young Punks Winemakerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Dinner.

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9. Keith Mugford, owner/winemaker, of Moss Wood in the Margaret River wine region of Western Australia; 10. Tina Jones and Jill Kwiatkoski visit Jose Manuel Mu単ecas Mu単oz and Carlos Mu単ecas, owners of Sanviver in Spain; 11. Kathy Schwartz, Independent Jewellers, and Lisa Muirhead, Poise Publications Inc., at the annual Advertisers' Wine Event for The Cellar Door; 12. Roger Belton, Belton Boisselle Benefits and Pensions, Dawn May, Prairie Chic Spa, and Shirley Martens, Blend Imports, at the annual Advertisers' Wine Event for The Cellar Door; 13. Gary Hewitt with David Hewitt at Dutton Goldfield in the Sonoma Valley; 14. Ken Aird, Ranger Insurance, and Megan Kozminski, Poise Publications Inc., at the annual Advertisers' Wine Event for The Cellar Door; 15. The Banville & Jones crew at a South African wine tasting garden party hosted by Paul and Shirley Martens of Blend Imports. www.banvilleandjones.com 21

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South Africa: THE SWARTLAND REVOLUTION Paul and Shirley Martens of Blend Imports specialize in bringing the best of South African wines to North America. This season, their portfolio includes a variety of delicious wines from the Swartland region. The Swartland, a sun-baked area with very arid rolling hills, is producing the next generation of amazing South African wine.

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behind the label: tablas creek By Saralyn Mehta, Sommelier (ISG), CSW planting. The result of all this loving care: spectacular ready-to-plant vines. Each year, new cuttings are sent from the French vineyard and propagated in the California nursery in order to expand the vineyard’s plantings. The reputation of these vines has spread throughout California, and they are now also sold to such prestigious producers as Bonny Doon, Ridge, and Terry Hoage.

Tablas Creek 2010 Cotes de Tablas Blanc Paso Robles, USA $32.99

Tablas Creek 2010 Cotes de Tablas Rouge Paso Robles, USA $34.99

WHEN LEGENDS COLLIDE What do you get when you blend the experience of fifth generation acclaimed Châteauneuf-du-Pape producers with that of a legendary American wine importer? The answer is one of the most consistently superior wineries of the California Central Coast: Tablas Creek in Paso Robles. Tablas Creek Winery is the brainchild of the Perrin family, famous for Château de Beaucastel wines, from the famed Châteauneuf-du-Pape region, and the Haas family, of the acclaimed American importing company, Vineyard Brands. Their fateful partnership stems from a relationship that began decades ago when Robert Haas, a young and determined importer, set out on a quest to bring quality French wines to the palates of Americans. He was fortunate to meet the Perrin family, and subsequently become the exclusive importer of Château de Beaucastel wines to America. As their relationship developed, Haas and the Perrin family increasingly discussed their mutual belief that California would be the perfect place

Tablas Creek 2009 Esprit de Beaucastel Paso Robles USA $45.99

to grow traditional Rhône varietals. In 1985, the partnership began with an extensive search for the perfect plot of land. They found it in a 120-acre property in west Paso Robles, less than 20 kilometres from the Pacific Ocean. From the limestone soils and Rhônelike climate, this seemed the perfect site. However, for this project, a perfect site was not enough; they also needed the perfect vines. They didn’t have to look much further than Château de Beaucastel! In 1990, the first vine cuttings were imported from France to start a lengthy, three-year quarantine process before they were proven healthy and fit for planting. In 1993, when the first cuttings were released to Tablas Creek, these exquisite cuttings had to be multiplied in order to build the quantities needed to plant the vineyard. The Tablas Creek nursery was a high-tech undertaking that involved multiplying the French vines, grafting them onto American rootstalk, housing them in greenhouses and shade houses, and eventually exposing them to sun and wind so they would be hardy enough for

With the vines planted, the real fun began. The vineyard practices are designed to mirror the practices at Château de Beaucastel. Densely planted vines, trellised low to the ground to take advantage of the rising heat from the rocky soil, are strictly limited to a small amount of bunches per year. Dry farming (i.e., without irrigation) much of the vineyard allows the vines to experience some stress, which strengthens them by forcing the vines to root deep in the soil. Tablas Creek achieved organic certification in 2003, and by 2010 much of the vineyard was being farmed biodynamically. The magic of Tablas Creek is in the bottle, but there is more to the magic than just the juice—it is how they interact with the Central Coast community. You can be part of the Tablas Creek magic at the vineyard with events like their annual pig roast or the Paso Robles Harvest wine tour weekend. They also share their love of winemaking all over the country at events like Montana Master Chefs and the Santa Fe Wine and Chile Fiesta. If you make time to read the Tablas Creek blog, you will feel like part of the family. Tablas Creek is a quality producer with an edge. This New World expression of Old World vines will make you long for each new vintage. From their entry-level Tablas Creek to their flagship wine, Esprit de Beaucastel, this international partnership brings the best of both worlds to your palate.

www.banvilleandjones.com 23

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Clockwise from left: Mission San Miguel Arcángel (Photo by Lynne Mavins); Vineyards on California’s Central Coast (Photo by Mike Muirhead); Bud burst in the California vineyards (Photo by Gary Hewitt).

Eureka! California is a big state with a lot of wine. In order to discuss the wines of California’s Central Coast, we need to talk about context. First, the state: California is the third largest state in the United States, and the most populous; if it were its own country, its GDP would rate among the top 10 countries in the world.

DISCOVERING CALIFORNIA’S CENTRAL COAST By Mike Muirhead, Sommelier (ISG, CMS), CSW Second, the wine. The United States is the fourth largest wine-producing country in the world, and if you removed all other 49 states (there are bonded wineries in all 50 states), California would still be the fourth largest producer of wine in the world. When you think of California, thoughts automatically go to Napa and Sonoma Valley; however,

combined, they account for only 12 per cent of California’s wine production! The Central Coast produces just over 15 per cent of the total production of grapes in California with over 36,500 hectares under vine and over 360 wineries located in many different appellations and climates. www.banvilleandjones.com 25

Left: Cypress trees dot the windswept Santa Barbara coast (Photo by Carol Fletcher); Right: Enjoy tasting rooms throughout the Central Coast.

The largest American Viticulture Area (AVA) is the entire Central Coast AVA. A wine made from grapes grown in this AVA and labelled “Central Coast” will normally contain grapes from several smaller AVAs within the larger AVA. (See the sidebar for more details about California’s AVAs.) In this overview, we are going to look at the major players from North to South along 400 km of California coastline.

THE TOUR

clone of the Chardonnay grape is the most planted Chardonnay clone in the The northern section of the Central United States. Coast is in the San Francisco Bay area, where Chardonnay is king, Travelling south on US 101, you and includes the counties of Contra will pass by some of the largest, Costa, Santa Clara, San Mateo, and most famous vineyards in the United the Santa Cruz Mountains. The States. Kendall Jackson, J. Lohr, County of Alemeda is notable as Costa Vineyard, and Arroyo are all the home of Wente Vineyards in the in Monterey County. Once again, Livermore Valley, the country’s oldest Chardonnay represents over 40 per contiguously family-owned vineyard, cent of the vineyards, and Merlot which started in 1883. The Wente

is not far behind. Sub-AVAs include Santa Lucia Highland, Arroyo Secco, and San Barnebe, which contains the largest contiguous vineyard in the world—an astonishing 1,740 hectares. To put this in perspective, it is 300 hectares larger than the entire appellation of Margaux, Bordeaux.

Santa Rita Hills every morning and the cooling effect creates the perfect weather for world-class Pinot Noir and Syrah.

Anyone who has travelled across the state can attest to the diversity of California’s geography: from ocean to desert, redwood forest to thriving Farther south on the 101, we run farmland. The Central Coast is a great into Paso Robles in San Luis Obispo example of how the different climates County. This is a region with a along the coast can produce an split personality due to its unique incredible diversity of wines. People topography. East of the 101, Cabernet from the South may tell you that you Sauvignon is king, and the sentimental don’t mess with Texas, but, in the favourite is Zinfandel. Large vineyards wine world, most will agree that it is dominate the landscape, and the pretty hard to beat California. warm, dry conditions are favourable Coastal winds have a huge effect on Central to rich, full-bodied reds. Every year, Coast vineyards (Photo by Lynne Mavins). Paso Robles holds its Zin Festival, which is a dream destination for any self-proclaimed Zin lover. West of the 101 is a different story. Here, the Templeton gap (a break in the coastal WHAT IS AN AVA? range that allows cool pacific breezes to cool the temperature significantly) creates the perfect conditions for Rhône varieties—Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Grenache. Stellar producers like Saxum, Tablas Creek, JUSTIN, Treana, and Caliza are making world-class wines in extremely small quantities. Finally, you will discover Santa Barbara County, where Pinot Noir and Chardonnay thrive. In the Santa Ynez Valley, hot days and cool nights create perfect weather for Cabernet Sauvignon and Rhône varieties. Along the coast, ocean fog covers the

An American Viticultural Area (or AVA) is the United States’ attempt at the European appellation system. The AVA is there to distinguish certain geographical, topographical, soil, and climate differences. It does not specify the grape-growing or winemaking process (or quantity made) unlike its European counterparts, which are more rigid in grape varieties permitted, yield, winemaking techniques, and minimum alcohol level required. It is a system that is fairly new, and not without growing pains. California, for example, has almost 200 AVAs, and many are sub-AVAs of larger regions. For example, Rutherford is a sub-AVA of Napa Valley, and Napa Valley is a sub-AVA of the North Coast AVA, much like a Russian nesting doll set. In order to carry an AVA, 85 per cent of the grapes in the wine must be from the identified AVA.

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gary’s corner By Gary Hewitt, MSc, CWE, SGD, AIWS

WHAT’S YOUR PHENOTYPE? You hate a wine; your friend loves it. Obviously, your buddy has no taste! Or, is beauty in the eye of the beholder? Tim Hanni and Virginia Utermohlen support the latter view, based on results from their wine consumer surveys, published in two articles for Practical Winery & Vineyard Journal: “Wine Market Segmentation Based on Taste Sensitivity” (Spring 2011) and “Sweet Wine: Consumers Give the Prompts—But are Wineries Listening?” (Summer 2012). Their surveys intentionally excluded wine trade professionals from the data (too much learned bias!), instead focusing on the broad-market wine consumer. Although a wine beholder’s impression is a complex mixture of innate tasting ability, tasting experience, culture, and emotional and physical state, the authors suggest all these factors build on four basic taster phenotypes (categories based on observable characteristics). What phenotype are you? Sweet: 21 per cent of women and 7 per cent of men who self-identify as enjoying wine prefer sweet wine! Picky eaters, conservative in

28 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

their wine and food choices, and unsure when choosing wine, they tend to drink wine less often. Their innate high sensitivity imparts a strong dislike of bitterness and high acidity, characteristics ameliorated by sweetness in wines. Their “great wines” contain 20–80 grams of sugar per litre (g/L) with a “sweet spot” around 30 g/L. Although sweet, their wines must be impeccably made and work with foods they eat on a regular basis. Lower alcohol, smooth, and fruity wines such as White Zinfandel, fine German Rieslings, fruit wines, Sangria, Moscato, and doux Champagne fit the bill. Delicate (hypersensitive): 38 per cent of women and 36 per cent of men live in a “vivid and intense sensory world” where high alcohol levels burn and bitterness is unpleasant. They avoid very strong flavours on their mission to find complexity and flavour intensity. Fans of balanced, light, fragrant wines with moderate alcohol, they drink traditional Italian Pinot Grigio, ripe Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, or red wines touched by sweetness. Members of this group sometimes “talk dry but drink sweet” and like wines with a sugar concentration of up to about 15 g/L. Smooth (sensitive): About 25 per cent of the population is happily predisposed to a wide range of wines from delicate to powerful. They may initially like powerful wines only to later embrace medium-bodied wines they come to deem “better balanced.” Although lured by full-bodied dry wines (up to 10 g sugar/L) with rich fruit

and flavour complexity, smooth phenotypes will explore many wines: from those made by modern methods, medium-bodied to big buttery whites, and silky, mediumbodied wines like Pinot Noir and Sangiovese to more powerful wines, as long as the tannins are smooth. Intense (tolerant): 16 per cent of women and 32 per cent of men love intense “the bigger the better” wines, especially reds. They want more of everything—colour, flavour, alcohol, tannin, and oak. They find pleasure in wines that more sensitive tasters may find too powerful. Tolerants taste high levels of alcohol as sweet, do not mind high levels of bitterness or tannins, and do not experience the metallicbitter clash of big wines with some foods. They want big wines at meals from beginning to end. Cognac, Scotch, strong black coffee, and cigars may also grace their table. The 100-point wine-rating system makes sense to tolerants, and validates their favourite wines. This is the current “aspirational” societal group: much wine industry marketing is directed squarely in their direction. There are a number of take-home messages from the Hanni and Utermohlen studies. First, no one phenotype is “better” than another; we are just different. Second, no single wine suits all people all the time. Third, remove the prejudice against certain wine styles; for example, welcome sweet wines at meals and embrace lovers of big reds as they imbibe their monster Cabernet with sushi or prawns. Fourth, and perhaps most importantly, drink the wines you like.

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trending By Andrea Eby, Sommelier (ISG, CSW)

THE NEW REIGN OF SPAIN Spain is no stranger to the limelight. Throughout the centuries, the wines of Spain have ridden the wave of trends that forever flow through the wine world. Revered by the Romans and adored by the “Sack”-loving Brits, Spain has been producing fashionable wines for centuries. The industry has also suffered its share of setbacks, but with the transition to democracy in the 1970s, the wine industry began to recover and good quality, affordable wines began to materialize in the export market. Eventually, pockets of serious, quality-minded producers emerged and the wine world sat up and took notice. Even as missionaries sailed from Spain’s shores in search of indigenous populations to convert, Spain was destined to be the converted. Modern-day wine missionaries, led by the likes of Robert Parker, flocked to Spain and began their own conversion process. Producers began making wines to suit the critics’ palates, hoping for big “Parker points” that would fuel sales. And for a time, sales surged; yet the soul of Spanish wine seemed to get lost along the way. Traditional long-term aging in American oak barrels increasingly gave way to shorter aging regimens in new French oak barriques. Wines with more ripe fruit and spice, higher extract and alcohol, and international grape varieties led to wines that were no longer distinctly Spanish. Just like last season’s clothing trends, Spanish wines began to fade from fashion. Today, Spain has regained its trendy status. Producers have begun to realize that, in order to stay competitive in this challenging market, they need to get back to the uniqueness that sets them apart from the sea of wines on the world market. Forgotten fields of ancient vines are being rediscovered and indigenous Spanish varieties are sharing the spotlight with well-known international grapes. Superripe, over-extracted, high-alcohol wines are being replaced by wines with balance and elegance (and often with less American oak influence). Regional expressions of Spain’s famous Tempranillo and Garnacha grape varieties can now be found. Other reds, such as Mencia and Cumal, have only just begun to reach foreign shores, but the demand for these seemingly exotic wines continues to grow. Stunning white wines are also being produced in regions of Spain where unique climatic conditions make it possible. The names Godello, Treixadura, Verdejo, and Hondarrabi Zuri may not yet be on every wine lover’s radar, but just wait—they will be. Wine bars in New York, London, and Hong Kong have entire sections of their wine list devoted to some of these evolving varieties. 30 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

Young Garnacha grapes in the Alconde Vineyard, Spain. (Photo by Jill Kwiatkoski). If you are ready to explore the “new” Spain, check out the latest additions to the Banville & Jones’s Spanish section. We do our best to bring you all of the trendy tipples that Spain has to offer, including a selection of Cavas and Sherries. Further research can also be conducted at Winnipeg’s own Segovia restaurant. With a strictly Spanish wine list, Segovia provides the ideal environment to explore the cuisine and wine of Spain. From the most conservative consumers to full-on wine geeks who are looking for the latest and greatest, Spain has something for everyone. And while Spain is definitely trending at the moment, its diversity guarantees that it won’t be short-lived. Unlike the latest fashion trends that often only live for a season before they wither and die, you will still be able to crack a bottle of Spanish wine and enjoy it once the fame has faded away.

MODERN SPAIN Try the following modern favourites: Bodegas Jeromín 2010 Zestos Malvar, Madrid DO ..............................................$15.99 Bodegas Pascual 2010 Heredad de Peñalosa Verdejo, Rueda DO..................................$16.99 Txakoli Arregi 2011 Arregi Getariako Txakolinak DO .......................................$21.99 Dominio Dostares 2010 Estay Prieto Picudo, Castilla y León VdT .................................$18.99 Telmo Rodriguez Gaba do Xil 2009 Mencia, Valdeorras DO........................................ $22.99

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YOUR STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE CornerVine is the social network for wine. Once you sign up for CornerVine, you will be able to browse the Banville & Jones inventory; track your personal purchases; share your tasting notes, wine ratings and reviews with selected contacts in the Banville & Jones CornerVine community; and receive notifications about products specific to your tastes.

5. CornerVine will call the number you have provided to confirm that you control the number. Click “Validate” when you’re ready to proceed. When you answer the call, the automated caller will request that you enter the sixdigit code that you see on the screen.

Follow these six easy steps to join our online community now: 1. Go to http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com. 2. Click the “Create Account” link in the upper righthand corner of the page.

6. After you have successfully entered the code, the status will change to “Validated” and CornerVine will begin loading your purchase history from Banville & Jones, as

3. Fill out all required fields and click the “Submit” button at the bottom. If you want to track your purchases automatically, you need to provide the phone number that is on record for your account at Banville & Jones. (If you don’t recall which number you have on file, just call us and ask: 948-9463.)

indicated in the message at the top of the screen with the green background. The process will take several minutes. Once all purchases have been loaded, the message will disappear. Note: If the process completes and you don’t see any purchases in your history, you may have used a number different than the one on record for your account at Banville & Jones. In this case, you can change your number by clicking the “Account Info” tab at the top of your profile. You’ll also need to repeat the validation process for the new number. If you would like our assistance getting to know CornerVine, simply come into the store, and we can sign you up and give you a digital tour.

4. You will automatically be logged in and taken to your profile page. Click the “Validate Number” tab at the top of your profile.

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Vineyards and the California sky at the Caliza winery on the Central Coast (Photo by Carol Fletcher).

Loving Life in Paso By Sylvia Jansen, Sommelier (ISG, CMS), CSW and Saralyn Mehta, Sommelier (ISG), CSW Saralyn Mehta and Sylvia Jansen both visited Paso Robles, CA—seven years apart. Saralyn’s visit was in 2005, while Sylvia toured in the spring of 2012. The wounded outlaw Jesse James came to Paso Robles on the California’s Central Coast to spend some time in the healing waters of the hot springs at his uncle’s hotel, the original Paso Robles Inn. Grapevines were already growing, thanks to the work of monks who pushed vine cuttings into the ground wherever they established a mission. Two centuries later, Paso Robles is still a destination for travellers wanting a civilized, wine-soaked break from the rest of the world. Paso Robles has the charm of a gentrified country town, with a slightly Wild West bent. Many buildings are no more than two stories, clad with dark wood, the sun is bright overhead, and a casual, relaxed atmosphere seems to come simply by breathing in the air. To prepare for their visits, both Sylvia and Saralyn practiced

36 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

Left: The historic Paso Robles Inn (Photo by Carol Fletcher). Right: The titular clay house at Clayhouse Winery, Paso Robles (photo by Lynne Mavins);

the Spanish pronunciation of the town, repeating “Paso Robe-less,” only to discover that most locals pronounce the name of their town “Paso Row-bulls” or even more simply, “Paso.” The town has progressed far from its frontier days, but is still casual and open. Downtown Paso is an established, friendly neighbourhood, with an upscale twist of fine dining and fine art within easy walking distance. Saralyn was impressed by the inclusiveness of the community: “Here I was, a new student of wine, arriving in one of the hot spots for wine in the USA. I had this idea that wine was so elegant, dignified, and in many ways inaccessible—but at my first appointment, the winemaker, dressed in old jeans, jumped out of his pick-up truck with his three-legged dog! I was completely put at ease. Everywhere I went people were respectful, generous with their time, and open to my hundreds of questions. The wines reflected the people: they were easy to enjoy, balanced, and unpretentious. I loved it!” Separate visits took both travellers to the same hotel: the historic Paso Robles Inn. Some rooms boast balcony hot tubs that draw their water from the same hot springs where Jesse James healed his bullet-riddled body. Like several other downtown hotels, the Inn is an easy stroll across the street to central City Park. City Park is the green space that anchors the downtown. Occupying an entire block between 11th and

12th streets, City Park is a haven bordered by a feast of artisanal California gifts, candy shops, art studios, restaurants, and an array of tasting rooms. Clayhouse is among close to a dozen wineries with tasting rooms in the downtown centre. The easy walk from hotel to tasting rooms means a safe and happy wine experience; when tasting is done for the day, the restaurant choices run the scale from casual to fine dining. Of the cuisine, Sylvia observes: “I think Paso Robles enjoyed farm-to-table dining even before the concept had a name. With such a burgeoning wine trade, living side-by-side with cattle ranches, farms, market gardens, and ocean fishing less than an hour away, Paso is a dream.” One of Sylvia’s lunches was an unhurried affair in the quiet outdoor patio of Thomas Hill Organics near City Park in downtown Paso. On one plate, smoked salmon, avocado, sunflower sprouts, and aioli were all cozied inside freshly grilled sourdough bread. It was a grilled sandwich gone gourmet. On another plate was a salad of fresh greens, grilled Brussels sprouts and kale, with a sprinkling of quinoa and a delicate dressing. A white Rhône-style wine was a beautiful match. As beautiful as the dining is, visitors to Paso are happy to discover that there is an avenue to some of the raw material for this wonderful food. Once a week, City Park buzzes with a farmers market, offering local olive oils, fresh produce, art, and artisanal creations.

www.banvilleandjones.com 37

Comparing experiences, Sylvia and Saralyn agreed that the one thing that changed in Paso over the intervening seven years between visits was the wine—both the styles and the numbers have blossomed. Since 2000, the number of bonded wineries in Paso Robles wine country has tripled, from 50 to more than 180. The area is a haven for smallholdings, boutique, and family-owned wineries. Winemakers are attracted to the potential of the place from elsewhere in California, as well as from further afield—“local” winemakers include talents from Europe, Australia, and South Africa, to name a few. When Saralyn visited, Tablas Creek was just developing wines from vine cuttings they had imported from their home property in Châteauneuf-du-Pape in southern France. By the time Sylvia arrived, Tablas Creek was enjoying a well-deserved stature internationally. From the Tablas nursery, grapevine cuttings have been sold and have helped immensely to seed a whole new range of Rhône-style wines throughout the area. Wines from the southern France-inspired Mourvèdre, Grenache, and Syrah (and blends of these) exist side-by-side with the California staples of Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon. For white wines, Paso wine lovers can choose from Viognier, Marsanne, Roussanne, and others alongside Chardonnay. Today there is a new elegance

Tablas Creek Vineyard (Photo by Gary Hewitt)

in the wines of Paso, driven by the positive energy that has existed for centuries. Happily, the price of a good Paso wine even today does not resemble a mortgage payment. After a day or two in downtown Paso Robles, Saralyn thought: “I could live here.” For Sylvia, another trip might be good: a few Paso restaurants remain to be explored.

MEDITERREANEAN – GOURMET ODYSSEY Come onboard L’AUSTRAL and experience an unforgettable journey to delight your discerning palate.

After the success of the first edition of Cuisine et Vins de France (the cuisine and wines of France), we are pleased to invite you on a new gourmet odyssey. Enjoy the gentle Mediterranean spring and a prestigious program organized by Irene KARSENTY, the Editor of Cuisine et Vins de France, who will be aboard accompanied by her guests. Experts from the editorial team will organize tasting sessions of fine wines and cooking workshops. Some of the most

famous French Michelin-starred chefs will prepare gala dinners accompanied by perfectly matched wines, selected by our expert Sommeliers. Amongst the entire Cuisine et Vins de France team, guest of honor, Emmanuel RENAUT, will accompany you through this fantastic food and wine journey. Come join us on this gourmet cruise between Andalucia, the Balearic islands and the Costa Brava onboard L’AUSTRAL.

All inclusiv e prices st arting from $3 ,300 per person. April 13 Sail from M – 20, 2013 alaga to M arseill – a gourm et odyssey… es

CENTRAL COAST BY THE SEA: SANTA BARBARA By Jill Kwiatkoski Santa Barbara is a gorgeous city filled with delectable restaurants, beautiful shops, and mesmerizing art galleries. Even better: an amazing wine scene is only a hop, skip, and a jump away! If you are new to travelling wine country or want to give a wine region a try, the Santa Barbara County Vintners’ Festival Weekend is the perfect introduction. The Vintners’ Festival is held annually in mid-April just outside of the city of Santa Barbara in the neighbouring communities of Lompoc or Los Olivos (the location changes each year). This wonderful wine festival showcases over 100 local wineries, who are so neighbourly that I am convinced they routinely borrow a tractor, hard working staff, or even a bit of winery advice from one another. The festival is held outdoors under big white tents where proprietors and winemakers call you over to talk your ear off about their latest and greatest vintages. The wine festival is not just jam packed with outstanding wines—local restaurants adorn each tent with food samples that pair amazingly with the local wines. The Vintners’ Festival surrounds you with all the glories that Santa Barbara wine country has to offer. Taking a drive through Santa Barbara wine country is as easy as squishin’ a grape! Take any side road off of the main highway (154 or 246) from Santa Barbara and stop in at any one of the many welcoming (and famous!) wineries. Taste their latest vintages, browse their shops, and talk wine all day long with people who truly love it.

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the language of wine: Interview by Gary Hewitt, MSc, SDG, AIWS

Randall Grahm is the rare winemaker who, through extensive writings in newsletters, blogs, and published collections, makes transparent a personal philosophy of wine and a career-long pursuit of ideals. His writings are whimsical, erudite, and funny even if thoroughly grounded in academic, practical wine industry detail. His Santa Cruz County winery, Bonny Doon Vineyard, known for its tongue-in-cheek labels, has undergone several incarnations. My own way of thinking about wine has been influenced by Randall Grahm, so it was with great pleasure that I caught up with him by phone from San Francisco. Gary Hewitt (GH) It seems to me that you were not born to wine, but came to wine, and became a modern-era pioneer in the Santa Cruz Mountain area of the Central Coast. What early decisions brought you there and how have these decisions affected your career? Randall Grahm (RG) Well, in retrospect, I think choosing a career in wine was a brilliant decision. I think it fits my temperament, being such an eclectic person, interested in a lot of different things—although there’s another term, and that’s attention deficit disorder. But what’s nice about my life as a winemaker is that I’m able to be intellectually stimulated by so many different kinds of experiences and challenges.

An Interview with Randall Grahm I ended up in the Central Coast partially because I went to school at UC Santa Cruz, loved the area, and wanted to stay there. There’s a certain open-mindedness in the area; the people are progressive, the politics are progressive, and there’s isn’t a lot of received wisdom about things. I don’t think I would last very long in places that are stuffier, that take themselves a little too seriously—Napa Valley, for example. On the other hand, had I the wit to figure out how to make wine in Europe, I probably could also have been very happy—although probably in jail, because things are so heavily regulated. GH Do you see great diversification in the current development in the Central Coast area? www.banvilleandjones.com 41

RG Yes and no. The Santa Barbara-Los Olivos-Santa Rita Hills area is quite interesting. There’s a fair amount of experimentation going on. Also, Paso Robles is a burgeoning area, with small, artisanal vineyards developing. Monterey County is still in the thrall of very large plantations, which have their purpose, but you’re not seeing many of the artisanal estates developing there yet. What I despair about the Central Coast sometimes is when it decides it has to be a Napa- or Sonomawannabe, or has to follow the latest hot trend, whether Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, or Syrah. I would like to see winemakers and growers take more chances and be more open to experimentation. However, I also realize that innovation isn’t always possible in these times, when money is tight; the wine business is so competitive and people are afraid to take risks. That’s the one thing that I’m not so crazy about in the wine business these days—just how utterly, brutally competitive it is.

you suggest as primers to the uninitiated wine lovers in our market in Winnipeg? RG Well, they’re all really good! [laughing] Years ago, I was always trying very hard to please wine critics and customers, and I overcompensated with over-made, stylized wines. What I’m finding now is that by backing off on my own stylistic efforts, and letting the wine sort of be itself, it’s a much more interesting, inviting wine for it. Virtually all the wines are subtle; they invite the taster in rather than hit the taster over the head. The Vin Gris is a good example of a restrained, elegant style; it’s Vin Gris, not a Rosé. The Syrah, Le Pousseur, is a really nice, restrained Syrah, with nice acidity, and it has an earthiness. The 2009 Contra is a really cool, mineralintensive wine from very old vines. It’s very much an Old World wine that’s somehow managed to find itself in the New World.

GH Quoting from the introduction to your autobiography, Been Doon So Long, you say: “and while the slightly INTERESTING THING manic quality of the marketing effort ABOUT WINE IS THE FACT may have in recent years gotten a bit ahead of itself—the words seemingly THAT IT’S NOT STATIC, IS THAT more clever than the wines—I am IT MOVES, AND THE MOST lately trying to find the appropriate balance that one seeks in a well-made INTERESTING WINES MOVE wine or a well-lived life.” Are you AND CHANGE THE closer to finding that magical balance?

THE MOST

GH In your writing, including in your book Been Doon So Long, you ground your discussion in philosophy, in classical literature. The book is a remarkable contribution, that seems very personal, almost soul-baring. How important is this backdrop for the context of wine?

RG I think it’s my attempt to make sense MOST. of what I’m doing and where I’m going—my RG I don’t know. I try to delude myself into process is that I have to think about it and talk thinking that I am. I’ve made plenty of wine over about it and look at it from every different angle, and the years, and the idea of continuing to make good wine, then look at it some more and talk about it some more even excellent wine, is just not that appealing to me. and then maybe I can figure out where I’m going with Unless I can make really distinctive wine, really special it. One issue we have in the New World is there is a sort wine that expresses a sense of place, to me, it’s just not of impoverishment of vocabulary to talk about wines. It worth the effort. So that’s where I’m trying to get to as seems ironic with so many wine writers out there, but we quickly as I can: having the ability to do something really still don’t have a really great vocabulary to talk about distinctive in the world of wine. That’s what enriches the experiences of tasting great wines. Parker and Wine our experience, and what makes wine magical: those few Spectator have given us one kind of language, one kind of bottles that are just unlike anything else you’ve ever had vocabulary, which is kind of bodice-stripping, overheated before. purple prose. It’s language for the boudoir. Language GH Which of your own wines do you feel is closest to about wine should be different. The most interesting that ideal? thing about wine is the fact that it’s not static, is that it moves, and the most interesting wines move and change RG I don’t think any of them is, unfortunately. However, the most. A great wine will be a very different wine from there are some really clever things we’re doing now. the first day to the second, two hours later, four hours We’ve got this technique that I accidentally discovered, later; it’s a constantly evolving experience. which is aging wine in demijohns [Ed. note: a large glass jar or carboy, commonly 25 litre capacity], which seems The other thing that wine writers avoid is that the to impart another dimension of texture to the wine as subjectivity of the experience is absolutely enormous. well as an extreme savouriness. We’re making a Cigare There is no such thing as an objective wine review. When Volant Réserve and a Cigare Blanc Réserve. That wine you read a wine review, you’re really reading as much is technically really interesting and absolutely delicious, about the critic as about the wine. I’m really interested in but I don’t think it replaces a vin de terroir. A vin de the interplay of wine tasting. What does the wine taster terroir is something that you just can’t easily find; it bring? What are the qualities of the taster’s attention and has to be an intentional activity. It starts with growing intention that inform the experience? your own grapes, planting them in a certain way and GH Which of your current Bonny Doon wines would cultivating them a certain way, to express the originality

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of the site. The problem is that, in the New World, we live in a culture of control. You have to step outside of the culture to get to this kind of wine that I’m thinking is most valuable. GH Randall, what would you like to say about the place where Bonny Doon winery is at the moment? RG Well, Bonny Doon winery is sort of poised—and it’s been “poised” for a while; my girded loins are getting a little tired of being so girded—to plant some really, really special vineyards. That’s the only logical next step. I’m not sure quite how or when we’ll get there, but that is where we have to go. That is most compelling for me; everything else just seems sort of banal. We have this wonderful site in San Juan Bautista that I’m planting slowly, slowly, slowly. I’d just like to accelerate the process if I could. GH So it sounds like it’s still a trip rather than a destination. RG It’s definitely a trip.

Banville & Jones is excited to offer these unique wines by Randall Grahm: Bonny Doon 2009 Contra, Old Vine Field Blend Central Coast, CA ($28.99) South France inspired, Carignan grape variety dominant Bonny Doon 2011 Vin Gris de Cigare Central Coast, CA ($28.99) Salmon-pink wine from gentle pressing of red- and white-skinned grapes Bonny Doon 2010 Le Cigare Blanc Arroyo Seco, Central Coast, CA ($40.99) Biodynamic Grenache Blanc-Roussanne white wine, concentrated and complex Bonny Doon 2009 Le Pousseur Syrah, Central Coast, CA ($40.99) Elegant, black fruits, spice and earth Bonny Doon 2008 Le Cigare Volant Central Coast, CA ($62.99) Homage to Châteauneufdu-Pape

2012_Independent_02_outl.indd 1

5/7/2012 11:01:56 AM

WINEMAKER’S DINNER: TOLAINI ESTATES Executive Chef Jeremy Langemann of The Velvet Glove in The Fairmont Winnipeg welcomes winemaker Pierluigi Tolaini of Tolaini Estates, Tuscany. On October 25, Chef Langemann invites you to share a menu customized to pair perfectly with each of Tolaini’s incredible wines. A perfect evening to indulge in wine, food, and conversation with the winemaker. Please call 985-6255 to book your reservation. Cost: $99.00, plus taxes and gratuities Thursday, October 25, 6:30 pm

Cooking Class

Wine & Flavours

Learn from the best! Banville & Jones Sommeliers team up with Winnipeg’s premier chefs to share recipes and wine pairings. Cost: $89.99 per person

Wine and food have a language all their own. Our Flavours events pair wines with small plates so we can explore how food changes wine, and vice versa, through an array of flavour pairings. Cost: $39.99 per person

Thursday, October 4: Elements Friday, January 25: The Velvet Glove

Photos by Ian McCausland

BANVILLE & JONES

wine & food

events schedule OCTOBER 2012 THROUGH JANUARY 2013

Friday, January 11

Luxury Tasting

Wine & Food Evening

Our Sommeliers open the doors to our specialities cabinets to explore some of Banville & Jones’s exclusive treasures. Cost: $99.00 per person

Banville & Jones invites you to join us for a new series of wine and food pairing! Our talented Sommeliers work with Winnipeg’s most talented chefs to create the ultimate pairing experience. Cost: $79.99 per person

Saturday, October 20: Northern Italy in the Cave Saturday, January 19: France in the Cave

An Evening of Wine, Food, and Photography Hosted by Tina Jones, Marisa Curatolo, and Pauline Boldt. Cost: $100.00 per person Thursday, November 8: Our Holidays Thursday, January 24: Our Resolutions Thursday, February 21: Our Escapes

Thursday, October 18: Pizzeria Gusto Saturday, October 27: Terrace 55 Sunday, January 13: Peasant Cookery Saturday, January 26: Urban Prairie Thursday, January 31: Terrace 55

To reserve a space or book a private wine tasting event, call 948-WINE. UÊ UÊ UÊ UÊ

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Tickets for events are non-refundable, but are exchangeable 14 days prior to the event. Events begin at 7 pm unless otherwise noted. Check with www.banvilleandjones.com for updates and information on event themes and dates. All prices subject to GST.

A toast to great relationships. At Ranger Insurance, we believe that the relationships we hold are our greatest asset. We value the ones we have with our staff, our business partners and our communities. Most of all, we cherish the ones we hold with clients like you.

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s n o i t a l u t ! a s r u g n o to

The Cellar Door is Magazine of the Year - Peoples Choice for 2012

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AMO ARGENTINA RGENTINA Issue 10 October ctober 2011 – January 2012

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SOUTH AFRICA A Wine Adventure

Issue 11 February – June 2012

For every $100 Banville & Jones gift card you purchase, receive the gift of an Eisch Breathable Bordeaux glass (value $29.99). Buy a $500 gift certificate and receive 6 glasses (value $179.94).

Issue 12 June - October 2012

This promo offer is valid for gift cards redeemed on your next visit. Promo ends December 31, 2012.

BANVILLE & JONES WINE CO. STORE HOURS Thank you to the Manitoba Magazine Publishers Association and all of our loyal readers and clientele.

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gluggy By Rick Watkins, CSW

little brother, big brother With the holidays almost upon us, many of us are considering splurging on a special wine. However, we usually think of gifting good wine to our boss, our spouse, or a best friend. Rarely do we think of splurging on ourselves. This holiday season, treat yourself and upgrade your wine of choice to version 2.0. Many wine regions make fantastic wines, but often we get stuck in the rut of buying the same wine over and over. We know we like it; we like the price point; and we are creatures of habit. In order to break us out of this routine, let us focus on three regions that make great wine at an entry level, and absolutely stunning wine when you get to taste their top cuvées. BURGUNDY

When you are seeking a Chardonnay, Burgundy’s is arguably the best in the world. Every style is represented in the region, from unoaked to wines that spend up to two years in French oak barrels. In Burgundy, location is everything. A basic Bourgogne, which can come from anywhere in Burgundy, can be a terrific bargain in great vintages like 2009 and 2010. Bernard Defaix makes a Premier Cru (one step down from Grand Cru) called Côte de Lechet in a half bottle for only $18.99. This is truly a bargain for a wine of this quality. However, when you are really ready to treat yourself, you must try the pinnacle of Burgundian wines: Grand Cru wines. Only a very tiny number of wines coming out of Burgundy are allowed to carry this title. Many Grand Crus cost $200 to $300, or more! A relative bargain is Bernard Defaix’s Grand Cru Vaudesir 2009, which clocks in at $82.99. This bottle is an unusual white that will need decanting, or if you want to save it for the future, 2–3 years in the cellar. CHILE

For decades, Chile has made oceans of inexpensive, yet quite good, wine. Recently, winemakers have

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started to identify regions and vineyards that are special, capable of making wines that can rival the best in the world. Colchagua Valley is such a place, and the Apalta vineyard in Colchagua might produce Chile’s greatest wines. Viña Ventisquero makes wines at all price points, and for $16.99 their Queulat Syrah offers a gorgeous mouthful of wine. However, the flagship wine, Pangea, will truly blow you away. When you consider that it costs $59.99 and is made by the legendary Australian winemaker John Duval, who made Penfolds Grange Syrah for over 20 years (that will set you back $400.00 a bottle!), you realize how special Pangea truly is. Drinking well immediately, John Duval advises that it will continue to improve for 15–20 years.

its red soil and the quality of its Cabernet Sauvignon. Majella winery produced its first wines in 1991 and is now known for making some of the best wine in the region. Although they make tiny quantities of wine, a special relationship forged between Banville & Jones and Brian Lynn, the owner and winemaker, means that we will always stock these gems. The Musician, their entry-level wine is a perennial bestseller at Banville & Jones. The Malleea, their top cuvée, is made only in exceptional vintages: none was made in either 2006 or 2007, and only 500 cases were made in 2008. It is a wine to sip and savour, as new aromas and flavours emerge over several hours in the glass. Brian believes this wine will only get better over the next 15–20 years and, at $72.99, it is worth the splurge!

AUSTRALIA

When you are out this holiday season, fighting the crowds, navigating parking lots with no empty stalls, sweating and sighing in long line-ups, and splurging on gifts for your family and friends, consider how much you deserve a little spoiling. Treat yourself to that holiday bottle and remind yourself: you are worth it!

In the 1980s and 1990s, Australia exploded onto the wine scene as a country that could make easy drinking, fruit-forward wines for a reasonable price. Since then, Australia has slowly been climbing the ladder of quality, and present-day Aussie wines are some of the best in the world. The Coonawarra region is famous for

Committed to the next generation of culinary leaders. In January 2013, we’ll open the Paterson GlobalFoods Institute, a state-of-the-art training facility that will allow us to contribute to Manitoba’s economic growth by increasing the number of skilled graduates working in the culinary and hospitality arts.

rrc.ca/culinary

BANVILLE & JONES

wine institute PROFESSIONAL SOMMELIER PROGRAM: A NEW ACCREDITATION! Welcome CAPS to Manitoba! Banville & Jones Wine Institute is pleased to announce a new accreditation, again raising the bar for Sommelier training in Manitoba! We are now offering programs accredited by the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers (CAPS). A national Sommelier organization, CAPS is part of the Association de la Sommellerie Internationale (ASI), to which 55 other member nations belong. With these new linkages, our internationally qualified instructors, and an exciting development for Professional Sommelier education, Banville & Jones will continue to be at the forefront of quality wine education in Manitoba.

BJWI WINE SPECIALIST 100 (REPLACES ISG LEVEL 1)

BJWI PROFESSIONAL SOMMELIER PROGRAM – CAPS & ASI CERTIFIED

(NO PREREQUISITE)

(PREREQUISITE IS BJWI WINE STEWARD 200 OR ISG 2 OR WSET® 3 AWARD IN WINES & SPIRITS OR EQUIVALENT QUALIFICATIONS, CONSIDERED ON AN INDIVIDUAL BASIS.)

This first level lead-up course to our Professional Sommelier designation is a dual certificate program including the world renowned WSET® Level 2 Award in Wines & Spirits plus introductory restaurant service. Duration: 2.5 hours, once a week for 8 weeks, 6:30 to 9:00 pm, plus 1 hour exam on the 9th week September 10, 2012 or January 8, 2013 Cost: $600 plus GST

BJWI WINE STEWARD 200 (REPLACES ISG LEVEL 2)

This Professional Sommelier Program is the in-depth, rigorous and challenging program leading to the Sommelier designation as recognized around the world by CAPS and ASI, which is based in Paris, France. This program is an intensive study into the world of wines, wine service and spirits. The course includes 25 classes, one full day per week, over 8 months; and also requires a 60-hour practicum under supervision, projects, case studies, tastings, and examinations.

(PREREQUISITE IS BJWI WINE SPECIALIST 100; OR ISG 1; OR WSET LEVEL 2 AWARD IN WINES & SPIRITS)

October 15, 2012 to June 17, 2013 Cost: $3,250 plus GST (payment plan available)

This advanced-level course is the prerequisite to the CAPS Professional Sommelier Program. This dual certificate program includes the world renowned WSET® Level 3 Award in Wines & Spirits plus intermediate restaurant service.

UÊ Register for all courses at Banville & Jones, 204-948WINE (9463) or inquire at bjwi@banvilleandjones.com.

Duration: 2.5 hours, once per week for 18 weeks September 2013 Cost: $1,200 plus GST

UÊ Gift cards are available for all Banville & Jones Wine Institute courses UÊ For full course descriptions, please visit www.banvilleandjones.com and follow the link to Wine Education. UÊ Watch our website for further information on the establishment of a CAPS Manitoba chapter!

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WINE APPRECIATION: BASICS PROGRAMS Wine Basics, Level 1

Beyond Basics, Level 2

This course is for anyone who enjoys wine and wants to know more. The two evenings focus on: tasting wines from major grape varieties, putting words to wine tastes, discovering how quality affects price, navigating restaurant wine lists, and the basics of food and wine. Classes run 7:00 to 9:00 pm in the Tuscan Room of Banville & Jones. January 9 & 16, 2013(Wednesdays) or February 6 & 13 (Wednesdays) Cost: $79.00, plus GST

An intermediate course that builds on the knowledge gained in Level 1. This course covers: why place matters, tasting through the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s main wine regions, as well as sparkling, Champagne, Ports and fortified wines. Classes run 7:00 to 9:00 pm in the Tuscan Room of Banville & Jones. February 27, March 6, 13 & 20 (Wednesdays) Cost: $159.00, plus GST

Register for Basics courses by calling Banville & Jones at 204-948-WINE (9463) or inquire at bjwi@banvilleandjones.com. Gift cards are available for all Banville & Jones Wine Institute courses.

RED RIVER COLLEGE SEMINARS Banville & Jones is partnering with Red River College to bring exciting wine seminars to their Continuing Education Programs. (Open to all)

North South East West (RRC course #SEMR 1026)

Aperitif to Dessert for Wine Enthusiasts (RRC course #SEMR 1027)

With a little knowledge of specific wine regions, you can predict the style of wines by knowing if the grapes grew in a cool or warm climate and if they come from the Old World or New. Led by a Banville & Jones Certified Sommelier, this workshop tasting includes 6 wines and is designed to enhance your ability to select wine styles with ease. Saturday, February 23, 2013 1:00 pm to 4:00 pm Cost: $59.00, plus GST

Stuck on a few familiar wines? Led by your Banville & Jones Certified Sommelier, learn tips for designing fabulous menus, based on great wine choices for each course, and how to relate one course to the next. Taste a broad range of wine styles (6 wines are included in this tasting) and discover how you can wow your guests throughout the meal. Saturday, May 4, 2013 1:00 pm to 4:00 pm Cost: $59.00, plus GST

Advanced Food and Wine for Chefs and Wine Lovers (RRC course #SEMR 1024) Significant Seven for Wine Enthusiasts (RRC course #SEMR 1025) Taste the wines and learn the signature styles from the seven most significant grape varieties in todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wine market. Seven wines, a Banville & Jones Certified Sommelier, and an entertaining afternoon of learning! Saturday, October 27, 2012 1:00 pm to 4:00 pm Cost: $59.00, plus GST

This workshop will examine emerging approaches to food and wine harmony. Through tasting vital components and wine styles, participants will learn how key ingredients and food preparations create either beautiful harmonies or disastrous consequences for the dining experience. This course is designed for chefs; however it is also appropriate for anyone passionate about food and wine. Thursday, March 21 or Monday, May 13 6:00 pm to 9:00 pm Cost: $59.00, plus GST

To register, go to the Wine Education tab at www.banvilleandjones.com and follow the link to Red River College registration.

www.banvilleandjones.com 51

culinary partners

529 Wellington serves only Canadian prime beef and fresh seafood, with impeccable service in an elegantly restored 1912 mansion on the banks of the Assiniboine River. Celebrating its 10th anniversary, 529 has quickly become a world-renowned icon in the restaurant industry. An exquisite menu and extensive wine cellar make for truly memorable food and wine experiences at 529. Just ask Brad Pitt or Jennifer Lopez!

Chef Louise Briskie-de Beer and partner Faiz de Beer love to share the fruits of their travels by bringing global cuisine with Manitoba flare to your palate. Cafe Savour’s atmosphere is as unique and delightful as the food, perfect for an intimate, formal dinner for two or a group of friends out to enjoy a casual evening of relaxing laughter. Open Thursday, Friday and Saturday starting at 5:30pm for dinner.

Terrace Fifty-Five mirrors the natural beauty of Assiniboine Park. Whether for an evening out, a leisurely lunch or a special event, this is the venue to match the occasion. With a regional menu that reflects Manitoba food culture, Chef Resch maintains a strong commitment to sustainable and renewable resources. Enjoy Canadian fish, produce, bison, lamb, and grains, beautifully paired with a unique wine list.

529 Wellington Crescent 204.487.8325

956 St Mary’s Road 204.254.4681

Unit B - 55 Pavilion Crescent 204.938.7275

Sam Colosimo welcomes everyone like they are family to his Italian bistro in the Exchange District: Brooklynn’s Bistro. Named after his adorable daughter, this destination offers fine dining, contemporary décor, authentic Italian food, and an impressive wine list. Brooklynn’s menu changes seasonally to offer the best regional produce, meat, and fish that Manitoba has to offer. Visit Brooklynn’s for lunch or dinner, or drop by Boa Lounge for an exciting night out. Buon appetito!

Chef partner Tristan Foucault has reinvented the menu on the corner of King and Bannatyne. Peasant Cookery goes back to the land with uniquely prepared Old World dishes and top-notch service. This is real food, freshly harvested, and the seasonal ingredients speak for themselves. Literally everything is made from scratch by Tristan and his team.

Step’N Out is the most uniquely intimate restaurant sur le boulevard in St. Boniface. The rich décor, personalized hand-written menu board, innovative cuisine, and wine list are inspiring and romantic, making loyal patrons out of most every visitor for 13 years. Travel the two minutes from downtown to experience their gluten-free options in the most unique ambiance in the city.

177 Lombard Avenue 204.415.4112

52 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

100-283 Bannatyne Avenue 204.989.7700

157 Provencher Boulevard 204.956.7837

Winnipeg’s premier sushi destination: Wasabi Sabi. For a bite of lunch onthe-go, or a long, lingering meal at the chef’s table, the Wasabi Group offers unforgettable sushi, appetizers, entrées, drink specials, and desserts. Visit Wasabi Sabi for Happy Hour, Monday to Saturday, 3 to 6 pm and choose from tuna nachos, spicy mango prawns, tuna goma ae, pizza sushi, assorted tempura or ginger crème brûlée, just to name a few. 3-1360 Taylor Avenue 204.415.7878

Amici at Niakwa Golf Club

Los Chicos Restaurante Y Cantina

Amici Restaurant

Mulligan’s Restaurant and Lounge

Arkadash Bistro & Lounge

Olive Garden Italian Restaurant

Bistro 1800 at Hilton Suites Winnipeg Airport

Purple Hibiscus

Pizzeria Gusto

Blaze Bistro

Rainbow Stage

Bombolini Café Dario

Red River College and Prairie Lights Restaurant

Diana’s Pizza

Rembrandt’s Bistro

Elements

Sabai Thai

Elkhorn Resort

Segovia

Earl’s Restaurant and Bar

St. Charles Country Club

Horfrost

Sukhothai

Hotel Fort Garry and Ten Spa

The Velvet Glove at the Fairmont

Hy’s Steakhouse

TR McCoy’s Italian Restaurant

Joey Kenaston

The Current at Inn at the Forks

Joey Polo Park

The Victoria Inn

Joey’s Only Seafood

Tony Roma’s

Le Cercle Molière

Urban Prairie Cuisine

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KITCHEN The traditional North American holiday turkey feast has the combined weight, complexity, and contrast of flavour that makes a bigger impact than roast turkey by itself. We asked our friend Chef Alan Shepard of Step’N Out Sur le Boulevard for his favourite turkey and side dish recipes for the holiday season. He obliged us with his simply perfect turkey recipe with savoury sausage stuffing, heavenly mashed potatoes, and parsnip and potato pavé. To the Banville & Jones Sommeliers, we put the challenge of giving us the ultimate holiday wine list that will pair with the diverse flavours of the three dishes. When surveying their options, they looked not only at the flavours of the recipes, but also the meal as a whole. “A good guideline is to match the weight of the wine to that of the food, so with such a weighty feast, the trick for wine pairing is to compromise,” notes Sylvia Jansen. To accommodate this feast, Sylvia and Mike Muirhead selected wines that offer bold flavours: white wines that have enough weight, acidity, and intensity to stand up to the flavours of the meal; reds that have a good fruit core without high tannins that might overpower the lighter dishes at the table.

the meal Serves 10–12

Roast Turkey One 10 lb. turkey, fresh or completely thawed Fresh thyme, rosemary, and sage Salt & pepper Preheat oven to 325°F. Remove neck and giblets from the bird (set aside for stock). Rinse bird well under cold water, and pat dry. Place bird in a large roasting pan. Lift skin, and stuff fresh herbs between the skin and breast. Season the whole bird with salt and pepper, then cover the wings with tin foil (shiny side down). Stuff the turkey with savoury sausage stuffing. Bake for 4–5 hours until golden brown. Remove herbs & carve. No need to baste and resist peeking in—you don’t want to lose any heat from the slow oven! If cooking the stuffing inside the bird, let the bird rest under a foil tent for 10 minutes before removing the stuffing. Carve and enjoy!

Savoury Sausage Stuffing 4–6 cups bone-dry bread crumbs 1 lb. ground pork sausage 1 large onion, minced 3 ribs celery, finely diced ¼ cup fresh sage, chopped Salt & pepper Optional for dressing cooked outside the turkey: ½ to 1 cup giblet or chicken stock Sautée pork sausage until brown and crumbly. Don’t drain off the fat (it will moisten your stuffing). Add onion and chopped celery, continue to sauté for 2–3 minutes. Add sage, salt, and pepper, mix well. Add sausage mixture to bread crumbs, mix well, and stuff in the bird (make sure you have removed the giblets!). If you hesitate to cook your stuffing in the turkey, cook in a covered baking dish for the same amount of time, but add ½ to 1 cup of giblet or chicken stock.

www.banvilleandjones.com 55

Heavenly Mashed Potatoes 10 large Manitoba red potatoes, peeled and quartered Â˝ cup butter Â˝ cup heavy cream 1-375 g package Mascarpone cheese Salt Boil potatoes in heavily salted water until tender. Drain (but save water for the gravy!). Mash the potatoes, adding softened butter and cream. Add Marscapone cheese and whip well. If you have a food processor, throw all ingredients into a bowl and hit it with the whisk attachment!

56 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

Parsnip and Potato Pavé 2 lbs parsnips 4 medium potatoes 1½ cups heavy cream 3 tbsp butter ¼ cup potato flour 1 tbsp fresh thyme, chopped 1 cup Swiss gruyère, shredded 1 tsp salt fresh ground pepper 1 onion, thinly sliced 1 tsp fresh garlic, minced

the wines MIKE AND SYLVIA’S WINES FOR THE FEAST

Preheat oven to 350°F. In a large saucepan on low heat, melt butter, and sauté garlic, onion, and thyme for 3–5 minutes. Add cream, and mix until bubbly. Add flour in small batches until a thick paste forms. Add cheese, salt, pepper and mix well. Set mixture aside. Peel potatoes and parsnips and cut into very thin slices using a food processor or mandoline. Add parsnips and potatoes to the cheese mixture, mix well, place in a buttered baking

dish, and cover with foil. Bake for 30 minutes, then remove foil and continue baking for another 30 minutes until golden brown. (This dish is so tasty, you should probably make two batches!)

Whites Cister Da Ribeira 2010 Branco Douro DOC, Portugal .............................................................$12.99 Terlan 2011 Terlaner Classico Alto Adige DOC, Italy....................................................................$21.99 Tablas Creek 2010 Cotes de Tablas Blanc Paso Robles, CA, USA ............................................................$32.99 Grosset 2010 Springvale Riesling Clare Valley, Australia ............................................................$38.99 Domaine Philippe Gilbert 2008 Les Renardieres Blanc Menetou-Salon AC, France ................................$42.99

Reds Backhouse 2011 Pinot Noir California, United States ......................................................$12.99 Telmo Rodriguez 2010 Vina 105 Cigales DO, Spain ..................................................................$17.99 Donna Laura 2007 Bramosia Chianti Classico DOC, Italy....................................................................$22.99 Barnett Vineyards 2009 Merlot Napa Valley, United States ......................................................$69.99 Majella 2009 The Malleea Coonawarra, Australia ............................................................$72.99 www.banvilleandjones.com 57

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204.668.8101

sidebar By Sylvia Jansen, Sommelier (ISG, CMS), CSW

HOLIDAY DINNER Face it: the holiday dinner is a challenge for wine pairing. It starts with the style of the holiday meal. Many celebratory dinners seem to have three incredibly large courses: there might be a starter, there is always some decadently rich dessert, and in between is a meal with innumerable dishes, of competing weight, texture, flavour, and temperature. I have often thought that the best Sommelier exam would be pairing wines for a holiday meal. My own answer to that exam question would start with the idea of the meal. At its core, the big holiday meal does far more than satisfy our collective hunger. It is an opening into the dimension of love. The wine pairing ought to support this expression of love, so some principles to consider are: Care: The meal you are about to enjoy was prepared by someone who has spent an inordinate amount of time on his or her feet, shopping, cooking, cleaning, cooking, baking, all without easy access to cappuccino or free wi-fi in a corner café. Even those who arrange for a catered dinner take a lot of care in organizing the meal. The wine should be selected with similar care. Wines for the holiday meal do not need to be the most expensive wine possible, but they ought to be selected in reference to the palates of the people arriving, and should be expressive enough to stand up to flavours shouting off the dinner plates. Creativity: For many people, the holiday meal is the same from year to year. If tradition dictates the same menu, you can offer interesting variety with new wine pairings. After all, many wines can work with the same dish, and there are new wine choices every year. The

California Merlot that worked with the turkey last year might be a Burgundian Pinot Noir this year. Or it might be a Tuscan Sangiovese-dominated gem. Have some fun! Generosity: My most vivid childhood memories of holiday meals are all about generosity. First, there was abundance: enough food was prepared to serve Henry VIII and fifty of his friends. Second, there was a generous spirit: there were often at least two meat dishes and numerous side dishes (because not everyone likes everything). Holiday hosts open their home to show their guests that they are special and that they are welcome. The wines should reflect this spirit, and there should be enough to go around, hopefully providing leftovers for the next day. Opening more wine for that one dinner than I open in an average week always turns out well. And on top of that I always try to have a wine that offers something special: it might be a magnum of something fun, or it might be an unusual dessert wine. But the abundance and generosity always say: “Eat, drink, taste, enjoy!” Celebration: Above all, the holiday meal is about celebrating with people you enjoy. There should be an air of celebration around dinner and around the wines. Many people are after something bubbly around holiday celebrations, and lots of wine writers are quick to offer “alternatives” to Champagne. Now, I love a good sparkling wine from anywhere, but on a special occasion, my alternative is Champagne. I try to select one from a producer who shows care, creativity, and generosity in how they make their Champagnes. Then I open it up for the people I love. So here’s to you, for a great holiday. www.banvilleandjones.com 59

shopping list Bacalhoa 2007 Moscatel de Setubal Colheita, DO Portugal $12.99 .......................................................................................... 62 Backhouse 2011 Pinot Noir California, USA $12.99 ................................................................................................................ 57 Barnett Vineyards 2009 Merlot Napa Valley, USA $69.99 ........................................................................................................ 57 Bernard Defaix 2010 Côte de Lechet Premier Cru, AC France (375ml) $18.99 ........................................................................ 48 Bernard Defaix 2009 Vaudesir Grand Cru, AC France $82.99 ................................................................................................. 48 Bodegas Jeromín 2010 Zestos Malvar, Madrid DO, Spain $15.99 ............................................................................................ 30 Bodegas Pascual 2010 Heredad de Peñalosa Verdejo, Rueda DO, Spain $16.99 ................................................................. 30, 62 Bonny Doon 2009 Contra Old Vine Field Blend Central Coast, CA, USA $28.99 .................................................................... 43 Bonny Doon 2011 Vin Gris de Cigare Central Coast, CA, USA $28.99 .................................................................................... 43 Bonny Doon 2010 Le Cigare Blanc Arroyo Sec, CA, USA $40.99 ............................................................................................ 43 Bonny Doon 2008 Le Cigare Volant Central Coast, CA, USA $62.99 ...................................................................................... 43 Bonny Doon 2009 Le Pousseur Syrah Central Coast, CA, USA $40.99 .................................................................................... 43 Cava Bertha 2010 Lounge Cava Brut Nature, Spain $24.99 ..................................................................................................... 62 Callegaro Francesca nv Antichi Reassi Pinello Colli Eugani DOC, Italy $16.99 ...................................................................... 20 Cesarini Sforza nv Tridentum Brut Rosé, Trento DOC, Italy $32.99 ........................................................................................ 62 Christmas baskets and custom crates starting from $20.00 ....................................................................................................... 47 Cister Da Ribeira 2010 Branco Douro DOC, Portugal $12.99 ................................................................................................ 57 Domaine de Grachies 2011 Blanc Cotes de Gascone IGP, France $11.99 ................................................................................. 62 Dominio Dostares 2010 Estay Prieto Picudo Castilla y Leon VdT, Spain $18.99 ...................................................................... 30 Domaine Philippe Gilbert 2008 Les Renardieres Blanc Menetou-Salon AC, France $42.99 ...................................................... 57 Donna Laura 2007 Bramosia Chianti Classico DOC, Italy $22.99 .......................................................................................... 57 Finca Sandoval 2003 Cuvée TNS Touriga Nacional/Syrah Manchuela DO, Spain (1.5l) $239.99 ............................................. 62 Grosset 2010 Springvale Riesling Clare Valley, Australia $38.99 .............................................................................................. 57 Hacienda Albae 2009 Essencia Syrah/Merlot Castilla y Leon VdT, Spain $12.99 ..................................................................... 62 Illy Y1.1 Touch Espresso machine $450.00 ............................................................................................................................... 20 La Massa 2007 Tuscany IGT, Italy $39.99 ................................................................................................................................ 62 L’Ancêtre Organic Cheeses $6.99–$10.99 ................................................................................................................................ 20 Lolailo Winter Sangria $7.99 .................................................................................................................................................... 20 Majella 2010 The Musician Cabernet Shiraz Coonawarra, Australia $17.99 ............................................................................ 49 Majella 2009 The Malleea Coonawarra, Australia $72.99.................................................................................................. 49, 57 Ployez Jacquemart nv Extra Quality Brut Champagne, France (1.5l) $129.99 .......................................................................... 62 Quinta do Infantado 2003 Vintage Port Covas do Douro, Portugal $79.99 ............................................................................. 62 Quinta de Ventozelo nv Tawny Reserva Port Portugal $23.99 ................................................................................................. 62 Simonsig 2011 Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon South Africa $13.99................................................................................................. 62 Simonsig nv Brut Rosé, South Africa $21.99............................................................................................................................. 62 Stratus 2010 Icewine Red Niagara on the Lake, Ontario (200ml) $51.99................................................................................. 62 Tablas Creek 2010 Cotes de Tablas Blanc Paso Robles, CA, USA $32.99 .......................................................................... 23, 57 Tablas Creek 2010 Cotes de Tablas Rouge Paso Robles, CA, USA $34.99................................................................................ 23 Tablas Creek 2009 Esprit de Beaucastel Paso Robles, CA, USA $45.99 ................................................................................... 23 Tedeschi 2006 La Fabriseria Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC, Italy $45.99 ..................................................................... 62 Telmo Rodriguez 2009 Gaba do Xil Mencia Valdeorras DO, Spain $22.99.............................................................................. 30 Telmo Rodriguez 2010 Vina 105 Cigales DO, Spain $17.99 .................................................................................................... 57 Terlan 2011 Terlaner Classico Alto Adige DOC, Italy $21.99................................................................................................... 57 Terlan 2009 Nova Domus Chardonnay/Pinot Bianco/Sauvignon Blanc Alto Adige DOC, Italy $48.99 ................................... 62 Thierry Germain 2007 L’Insolite Blanc Saumur AC, France $16.99 .......................................................................................... 62 Txakoli Arregi 2011 Arregi Getariako Txakolinak DO $21.99 ................................................................................................ 30 Vellum 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, USA $89.99 .................................................................................................... 62 Viña Ventisquero 2009 Queulat Syrah Gran Reserva Maipo Valley, Rancagua, Chile $16.99 ................................................... 48 Viña Ventisquero 2008 Pangea Syrah Apalta Vineyard, Colchagua, Chile $59.99 .................................................................... 48 Vergnes nv Blanquette de Limoux Carte Noir Saint-Hilaire, France $14.99 ............................................................................. 62 Vice nv Vodka/Icewine Canada (500 ml) $43.99....................................................................................................................... 62

Due to the nature of the wine industry, any prices and vintages listed in this publication, as well as availability of product, are subject to change and cannot be guaranteed by Banville & Jones Wine Co. 60 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

E S TAT E S Diego Bonato, the respected and passionate GM and Winemaker at Tolaini Estates in Tuscany, invites you to share Tolaini’s award-winning wines with your family and friends this holiday season. Diego brings great enthusiasm and expertise to every Tolaini vintage, creating award-winning wines for the world to enjoy. His passion for wine, food, family, and knowledge fuel his quest to create the perfect bottle of wine Available exclusively at Banville & Jones Wine Co. banvilleandjones.com 204.948.9463

“In winemaking, there are many different traditions, different styles of wine, and different technologies. Wine has so many diverse aspects, and we are always discovering something new. Every detail is made up of many other little details, and all those details combine to make it possible to get closer to a wine that we dream to make. This is what I love!” Diego Bonato, Winemaker www.banvilleandjones.com 61

holiday picks EVERY BANVILLE & JONES STAFF MEMBER HAS A WISH LIST OF GREAT WINES. ASK US ABOUT ANY OF THESE FAVOURITES ON OUR CURRENT SHORTLIST.

GREATEST APERITIF

GREATEST UNDER $15

party starters and appetite awakeners

wines that taste like more

Vergnes nv Carte Noir Blanquette de Limoux Carte Noir Saint-Hilaire, France .......... $14.99

Domaine de Grachies 2011 Blanc Cotes de Gascone IGP, France ................................. $11.99

Simonsig nv Brut Rosé, South Africa........................ $21.99

Hacienda Albae 2009 Essencia Syrah/Merlot Castilla y Leon VdT, Spain ................................... $12.99

Cava Bertha 2011 Lounge Cava Brut Nature, Spain ............. $24.99

Simonsig 2011 Sauvignon Blanc/ Semillon, South Africa ........ $13.99

Cesarini Sforza nv Tridentum Brut Rosé, Italy ................... $32.99 Illustration by Jessica Lane

GREATEST UNDER THE RADAR

GREATEST SPLURGE

GREATEST SWEET ENDING

not yet on the front pages (but should be!)

sometimes you just have to treat yourself

happy endings, happy guests

Thierry Germain 2007 L’Insolite Blanc Saumur AC, France ... $16.99

Terlan 2009 Nova Domus Chardonnay/Pinot Bianco/ Sauvignon Blanc, Italy ....... $48.99

Bacalhoa 2007 Moscatel de Setubal Colheita, Portugal .............. $12.99

Bodegas Pascual 2010 Heredad de Peñalosa Verdejo, Spain...... $16.99 La Massa 2007 Tuscany IGT, Italy .................................... $39.99 Tedeschi 2006 La Fabriseria Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC, Italy .......................... $45.99

62 http://banvilleandjones.cornervine.com

Vellum 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, USA ............... $89.99 Ployez Jacquemart nv Extra Quality Brut Champagne, France (1.5 litres) ............. $129.99 Finca Sandoval 2003 Cuvée TNS (Touriga Nacional/Syrah) Manchuela, Spain (1.5 litres) ........................ $239.99

Quinta de Ventozelo nv Tawny Reserva Port, Portugal, ....... $23.99 Vice nv Vodka/Icewine, Canada (500ml) .................. $43.99 Stratus 2010 Icewine Red Niagara, Canada (200 ml) ................ $51.99 Quinta do Infantado 2003 Vintage Port, Portugal ....... $79.99

unforgettable. spicy mango prawns

Happy hour at Wasabi Sabi Monday to Friday, 3pm â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 6pm. Also enjoy Oyster Nights at Wasabi on Broadway every Tuesday night and Happy Hour at Wasabi Sushi Bistro every night starting at 10 pm. For complete menus visit wasabigroup.com.

Wasabi on Broadway 588 Broadway Avenue 204.774.4328

Wasabi Sushi Bistro 105-121 Osborne Street 204.474.2332

Wasabi Sabi 3-1360 Taylor Avenue 204.415.7878

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