THE MAVO NEWS 25
lUESDAY, JULY 1, 2014
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Going Dutch
in Eindhoven TRAVEL FEATURE
NE1LL O'NEILL MANAGING EDITOR
T
lf HEever-increasingroutes fromIrelandWestAirport
Knock have opened up a world of opporttutity for local holiday-makers and curious travellers, and Ryanair's new service to Eindhoven in the beautiful and bustling province of Brabant, is giving a whole new meaning to the phrase 'Going Dutch'. Think of The Netherlands (it is politically incorrect to refer to thecountryasHollandasBillO'Herlihyfoundout duringtheWorld
people. Eindhoven, for so long considered to be in the shadow of Amsterdam, is a world centre of innovation and design. The city has a tradition of creation and industrial success oozing from its pores, and there is no escaping from the pioneering legacy of global behemoths like Philips, established in Eindhoven in 1891, in what was arguably the serránal moment in the city's history. The impact their establishment had on Eindhoven cannot be overstated, transforming it from a village to the fifthlargest city in The Netherlands, and a truc powerhouse of global industry. Eindhoven bas a thriving city centre with pedestrian streets, packed with shops, bars and international restaurants. The word cosmopolitan, often used to describe more banal locations, serves as an appropriate description, as Eindhoven is a cocktail of many INNOVATWE PEOPLE ONE of the most striking aspects across the south of The Neth- ingredients.Frombeinghometoindustrialandtechnologicalgiants ■ • continued page 26 erlands was the ambitious, educated and progressive nature of its Cup. Holland refers only to the countrys two biggest provinces) and we imagine windmills, tulips, clogs, stoned tourists enjoying liberol smoking laws and a legal sex industry. Of course the Dutch have all those things, and there are plenty who travel to the country of almost 17 million inhabitants, which remarkably, is only a little over half the size of the Republic of Ireland in area, to enjoy such freedoms. However, on a recent trip to Eindhoven and the surrounding Brabant region, a media delegation from the west of Ireland were awakened to what is really on offer in the original 'Low Country'.
26 THE MAVO NEWS
TUESDAY, JULY 1,2014
— kist] journalist in
Old Philips buildings
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Jenny McGudden tof The Sligo `Chamnion af Van Gogh's home
Piet Hein Eek
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Mural made entirely from spice in Eirldgewe
from page 25 and a truc intemational centre of design and innovation, it can also claim an educated population, excellent infrastructure, a rich cultural and, in particular, artistic heritage, museums, a successful sporting legacy, nightlife, children's amenities and much much more. The same is true of the wider province of Brabant, of which Eindhoven is one of the main chics. ombed heavily during the secondworld war, Eindhoven has risen from the ashes like a proverbial phoenix, and, while some of its historie core remains, it is essentially a modem city, with stand-out architecturally-designed buildings, a beating beert and an enthusiastic population. It is obvious that in the post-war years, instead of attempting to recreate the past, Eindhoven saw the merit of looking towards the Future, building a modem city. Ir was a template for progression and innovation, that is very much the essence of what Eindhoven is today.
B
MEMORABLE TRIP OUR delegation consisted of journalists from five regional newspapers on the Westem seaboard, and Roscommon, and with introductions swiftly conducted by Donal Healy at IWAK, we were on board a Ryanair 737 brimming with eager travellers for the short 90 minute (light to Eindhoven. The fact that the plane was jam packed on each leg, particularly with Dutch citizens, bodes well for the future success of this route, and the workbeing undertaken abroad to promote IWAK and Ireland's western region. Our primary hosts for the trip, Pim Sybesma and Erik Van Ger-
'077
yer bike'
For all of their many, many virtues, t don't think the Dutch quite understood the level of amusement and laughter that Harry Walsh from the Donegal News, along with Michael Daly from The Donegal Democrat, and I, gamered from the fact that my hired bicycle took a mysterious leave of absence near
Piet Hein Eek
Ein dh oven
win, work for the province of Brabant and the City of Eindhoven an insight into what was itself, and though promoting tourism and extolling the virtues of alluded to earlier about a a region that bas given so much to the world, yet not quite received young, progressive and the level of international recognition deserving of their tol!, may entrepreneurial-minded seem like a hard task, both region and city are in exceptionally populationinEindhoven good hands. and Brabant. The cider statesmen in our group, from Donegal,were parCRADLE OF MODERN MUSIC ticularly bowled over by WE had a packed itinerary, which on the first evening focused on this.More surpriseswould the lure of festivals in the region, and how the global cradle of follow! modem dance music has carved out a niche around some of its k VAN GOGH home grown talent. By default, we tend to stereotype dance music with negative MOSTpeoplewillhaveheard statue images inheiend, but inBrabant, it is akin to our traditional music. of Vincent van Gogh, seen a in Nuenen There are several companies whichplan festivals around the genre, ropey copy of 'Sunflowers' or and with icons of the industry like Tiesto and Hardwall native to maybe even looked to a 'starry the region, there is no shortage of interest in the events, which look night' and shed a tear to Don spectacular and extraorchfiarily well organised. McClean's ballad 'Vincent' about the WeweretreatedtoapresentationfromTimiClompBueters (Wish troublednutchartist. Ondaytwo,despite Outdoor), Laura van der Voort and Stem Nozza from Ex-trema beving suffered from first night syndrome,we Outdoor and Maghiel Koekkoek (Breda Live), and the only way to got Van Gogh full and frontal, and you couldn't describe what they do is that they create and execute with aplomb, but be intrigued by the life story of this destitute, and witbont any hint of trouble, professionally-run, fim, and rela- depressed and doomed maestro. tively cheap to attend festivals fortens ofthousands ofpeople every Such was his turmoil that recognised by few, and appreciated by year. Imagine a mess Céilf in a small rural town, with all the trim- fewer stilt suicide at 37 was a release for the clergyman's son. Howmings, 60,000 in attendance and1,000volunteersworking to ensure ever, taldng a stroll around his quaint home village of Nuenen, fitst smooth operation. Welt, multiply the atmosphere, elation and aes- beyond the city limits of Eindhoven, you could see his ghost everywhere, from the home in which he grew up, to the small church dicties by two, and you're beginning to get the picture. What they do is remarkably impressive, and the fact that our del- in which his father ministered, and the sights from where he drew egation was older than all thosebehind these different events gives inspiration for some of his most famous paintings, particularly the
the football stadium, meaning the last leg of oor Eindhoven City tour ended with me hitching a lift on the back of the bike being plloted by Harry breaking a phone along the way and nearty being kneecapped by hts dodgy steeringl Seriously though, cycling is the best way to gat around the city. Tens of thousands of locals do it daily, and can't all be wrong.
Centre of the creative world Aside from excelling in the design stakes, and with a record number of reglstered patents, far exceeding any other city, Forbes describes Eindhoven as 'hands-down the most inventive city in the world'. For several years now, the Intelligent Community Forum has ranked Eindhoven
as one of the world's most Intelligent communities. One of their recent inventions - the 3D printer - Is something that no amount of explalning could help us gel our heads around (there Is one currently printing a red house in The Netherlands). However, the timitless potential for its use makes t cie& to see how it might yet change the world, and all from a small city that also gave us the CD and numerous other creations that
THE MAVO NEWS 27
TUESDAY, JULY 1,2014
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The lrish delagation and their dutch guides, including Erik Van Gerwin on the right, in Eindhoven
Lunch in unique surroundings
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house,stillinhabited,where keep indulging!) and a rather different type of boat trip - a Binpeering in the window, he nendieze Canal tour under the historie city - which rook us back sawa peasant family peel- intime andgave a unique perspectiveof Den Bosch, complete with ing potatoes. its sprawling rampart, faitytale turrets and many towers. His story is truly haunting, and the Nuenen tour, includingforus,analfresco ENJOYING EINDHOVEN lunch at a stilt working THE next day we dedicated ourselves to all things Eindhoven, watermillheimmortalised cycling after Erik Van Gerwin and Sandra Megens through the in colour, Ina must do. streets of the city, like children after the pied piper of Hamelin. Where once there was industrial production on a large scale, old buildings now serve as theaters, exhibition spaces, design offices DEN BOSCH and workshops, craft houses, enterprise incubation centres, ultra THAT afternoon we were modem apartments and even restaurants. treated to a tour of another of The clever use of whole swathes of the city make for an interestBrabant's must see cities, the his- ing juxtaposition between Einhoven's rich industrial past and the toric s-Hertogenbosch, known col- prosperous future it is clearly heading towards. In whole districts, loquially, and less of a mouthful, as the aesthetically sterile facade oftwentieth centuryPhilipsproducDen Bosch.IncontrastwithEindhoveres tionbuildings remains uncompromised, a tribute tothecity's heady paceandmodemity,thisauthenticmedieval days of yore. Yet, these conceal a world of creative and modern city is full of gothic architecture, narrow cob- wonder, like a massive work of contemporary art and creativity, bled streets, and with the sun of early June maldng lurking behind a dusty old cover. a lengthy appearance, the striking and charming city of Their minimalist approach to utilising now defunct buildings in Jheronimus (Hieronymus) Bosch, the famous artist of the 1400's, once thriving industrial heartlaiads is mind blowing, with rooftop was in the full, but relaxing swing, of high summet gardens offering unparalleled vistas over the city and one restauA museum tour and a vink to the Cathedral, complete with its rant, uniquely, buik into the vast open space of an old industrial famous angle statue, denim clad and talking on a mobile phone unit. Ir was like dining in a silent engine room, where hunlcs of old (now if that isn't contemporary thinldng nothing is) on the roof, machinery and piping with boks the size of car wheels were left and stained glass window depicting the 9/11 attack on the World in situ, with tables nestled snugly under arching, rusting girders. Trade Centre, were followed by an ice cream in the bustling Mar- Paint missing off antdd wall was seen as a feature here, rather than ket Square, a Bossche Bol (typical regional treat - don't ask just a problern. It was refreshing and inspiring.
we encounter in our dal/ lives. One Dutch company, ASML, which invents and develops complex technology for high-toch lithography machines, has 12,000 employees on its campus in Eindhoven alone. Remarkably, thIs indudes 800 Idsh
graduates, who, according to two we chanced upon along our travels, were recruited, primarily as engineers, before they had even graduated from college in Ireland.
Social scene Endhoven is packed full of pubs, clubs and al marmer of venues, and with English spoken as freely as at home, you will never encounter a problem in such a tiend,/ place. The city has a graat variety to offer, from traditional Dutch pubs to hip and trendy bars to Irish pubs with sporting events shown live. Pubs and bars stay open until 2am from Sunday to Thursday, and until 4am on Friday
and Saturday nights. 'Stratumseind' is the longest and most vibrant pub street in The Netherlands. Prices are comparative to home, and the atmosphere is electric. Check out the very aptly narned 'Smal Ba? for goud natured banter with the locals. As a gastro destination, Brabant Province and Endhoven offer a reflection of their international make up, with all cuisines and palettes catered for Ina muttitude of cosy venues. You will never go hungry, even if you 'Go Dutch' on the bill!
in Den Bosch 1.
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There was a large indoor swing, a badminton court made of steel mesh, and features too numerous to mention. Eating was a secondary concern, as it had been the first evening, when we dined in a city-centre venue where everything in the restaurant was for sale. It was, literally, eating in a showroom, a simply hrilliant concept, and there were no menus, you went to the kitchen and picked your dinner with the chef. At home, over-zealous HSE inspectors would have a field day writing citations and closing down such places, bot we all wondered and eventually agreed, that it is the restrictive and over legislative approach of our own natron that leaves us devoid of any chance ofcreatingsuch anovelvenue onthese shores.Shame really, and no wonder there was no sign of recession or austerity in The Netherlands, where their approach to the same challenges and problems we face is to Invest in infrastructure and in their country and people, and to try and remain buoyant and prosperous in times of great economie hardship. On the face of it, no far so good for them. A visit to the large and very impressive modem gallery of art, opened especially to accommodate us, a trip to the jaw-dropping workshop and headquarters of internationally-famous designer Piet Hein EEK, a behind-the-scenes tour of the city centre stadium that is home to former European and UEFA Cup winners PSV Eindhoven (Philips Sports Club) and a sumptuous feast, were followed by a sojoum to Erik's local hostelry to completen real eye opening and very memorable day out in Eindhoven. With such a short, reasonably priced and accessible flight, consider the unique prospect of visiting the past and the future on one trip, consider Eindhoven and the Brabant Province. For ideas on wint to do in Eindhoven visit www.eindhoven365.n1
Flights Ryanair operates twice weekly flights to Eindhoven from Ireland West Airport Knook, departing every Tuesday and Saturday. The arport Is just ten minutes from Eindhoven City with convenient access to neighbouring dies such as Amsterdam and Brussels. There are now 28 international destinations avallable from Ireland West Airport Knook with leading airlines Aer Ungus, Germanwings, Flybe and Ryanair
as well as tour operator partners Concorde Travel, Sunway Flolidays, Joe Walsh Tours and Paul Claffey Tours. For more information visit their website www. irelandwestairport.com or fellow them on Facebook.00mArelandwestknock or on twitter @irelanctwest