8 minute read
Next level living Exploring the island of St Lucia
Next level LIVING
Set in St Lucia’s hills, Jade Mountain is a gem of a place
Words: Chris Jones
What does lionfish taste like? In truth, this isn’t something I’d ever previously considered. It’s not a menu item on any of the London restaurants I regularly visit. A recent stay at the spectacular Jade Mountain resort in St Lucia, however, gave me the answer. Reader, it’s delicious.
First, a bit of background. Lionfish, although stunning to look at, are generally bad news. Carnivorous, venomous and invasive, they have moved in from the Pacific and multiplied rapidly in the Caribbean Sea. The chefs at Jade Mountain resort, then, are mounting a defence by turning the tables – so the hunter is hunted – and serving up their flaky, buttery fillets as a succulent alternative to the more traditional snapper and other reef fish.
And so, as my partner and I enjoyed an impressive lionfish tasting menu at this stunning resort, we could comfortably say that we were doing our bit for the ecology of the planet. This kind of armchair activism seemed entirely inkeeping with the laid-back nature of the island of St Lucia itself.
The hotel is the realisation of the vision of owner architect Nick Troubestkoy, who’s created something that I’d wager is unlike any other hotel you’ve ever stayed in. Found at the end of an unassuming track on the outskirts of the archetypal St Lucian seaside town, Soufriere, even the approach is captivating. »
As you travel further and higher, round every bend and pothole, you start to get a sense of a complete escape to another world. And that feeling is confirmed as you are greeted at the discrete entrance.
Jade Mountain sits high above its sister resort, Anse Chastanet, bordered on one side by the glistening Caribbean Sea, and built into the luscious rainforest. As I take in the backdrop of the twin Piton mountains, I find myself struggling to recall a more breathtaking location.
The place feels like a tropical James Bond set, comprising a spider’s web of walkways and columns draped in greenery and bright cerise flowers, with glass of all colours glistening against the sky. Revolutionary architecture and natural beauty blur seamlessly to create a unique island hotel experience.
The walkways lead to the ‘sanctuaries’ and it becomes clear as you enter why the word ‘room’, or even ‘suite’, is inadequate. With just 24 sanctuaries at the resort, you feel like a truly valued guest – helped by a staff to guest ratio of three to one. There is also a major domo (head butler, trained by the British Guild of Butlers) on hand should you require their services.
Our ‘sanctuary’ offered a phenomenal view of the Pitons, framed by an open front, an expansive infinity pool, fauna and stone walls. The generous open plan layout felt extravagant yet relaxed, while the quality of local natural materials combined well with the finest fixtures and fittings. And not an electronic device to be seen. Bliss.
While I’m rarely an early riser on holiday, this place demands you do it at least once – sitting by the infinity pool to watch the most beautiful of wake-up calls as the sun rose above the Pitons was one of the most memorable moments of my trip.
Tempting though it is to linger in those lovely rooms, you should also check out the private (and secret) beach, which offers brilliant diving and snorkelling in the clear blue water of the Caribbean Sea.
Attention to detail
In the open-sided, low-lit restaurant at sunset, five courses of fresh seafood seemed entirely inkeeping with the enchanting, slightly otherworldly nature of the place. The moist, chunky texture of the lionfish proved to be versatile – my favourite being the fillet served with melt-in-the-mouth crispy pork belly, complemented by a 2009 Pinot Noir from Russian River Valley – just one of several well selected wines for each course.
It’s the little things, though, that make this place extraordinary. On learning that our departure time coincided with the gift shop closing for a lunch break, for example, our host opened it up so we could purchase the glass artwork we’d had our eye on.
With these sort of exacting standards, plus a setting that’s like nowhere on the planet, I would return in a heartbeat. So guys, let me know if that lionfish problem really gets out of hand. I’m ready to do my bit.
After the STORM
Just a few months after hurricanes shook the Caribbean, its islands are bouncing back
Words: Nigel Tisdall
Villa Marie
Villa Marie
While hurricanes are nothing new to the Caribbean – the word most likely derives from hurakán, meaning “god of the storm” in the language of the indigenous Taíno people – the two that struck this much-loved region in close succession last autumn were a nasty blow. The good news is that over 70% of these balmy islands were unaffected by the Category Five hurricanes Irma and Maria, including such favourite winter sun escapes as Barbados, Jamaica, St Lucia and Grenada.
As every business guru will tell you, setbacks are also opportunities. It's impressive how the islands that took a hit have responded, with residents and governments pulling together to get things back on track for the peak winter season. One example is Anguilla, the tiny British Overseas Territory that boasts some of the most mesmerising white sand beaches in the world. Last September it was being ravaged by 185mph winds, yet just a month later officials announced the island was not only open for business but that they would use this calamity as a chance to extend the airport runway in order to welcome larger aircraft.
Caribbean hoteliers have taken a similar bullish approach, although it will be several months before some top luxury resorts, with their impeccable standards, can re-open. In the British Virgin Islands, Sir Richard Branson's Necker Island will remain closed until October while Peter Island Resort won't open before December. And there is a clear determination to come back stronger and better. “The future is very bright,” affirmed Stephane Zaharia, general manager of Anguilla's CuisinArt Golf Resort & Spa, where the rebuilding will see the addition of several new rooms “with all bells and whistles.”
On the super-chic French island of St Barts, some of the first establishments to re-open – naturellement – were its gourmet restaurants. By mid-December boutique hotel Villa Marie St-Barth was once again serving foie gras and quenelle de mérou soufflée, while its rooms are set to open in March. “Incredible solidarity has been driving the island during the past few months,” reports Fabrice Moizan, general manager of the celebrated Eden Rock-St Barths hotel. While this prestigious property won't be welcoming guests till late 2018, its companion villa rental service is already back in full swing. Devotees of the island's Le Sereno Hotel will have an equally long wait, but Samy Ghachem, its managing director, is promising “an even higher level of luxury including a new restaurant and wellness facilities.” »
Silversands Jumby Bay
Jumby Bay
St Kitts Out on the glistening waves, the return to normality has been helped by the fact that boats are less dependent on shoreside facilities than hotels and resorts. “Everyone within the superyacht community – owners, crews, charterers, brokers, service providers and so on – has pledged to support the islands,” said Alev Karagulle from Burgess. The global brokerage reports that “an encouragingly high number of vessels have committed to the Caribbean season this winter,” while Sacha Williams at luxury yacht charter specialists Camper & Nicholsons said “the marinas in Antigua and The Bahamas busier than ever.”
Such confidence is striking, and the long-term appeal of the Caribbean with its heady marriage of sunshine, warmth, tropical beaches and vivid cultures – not to mention hit-the-spot rum punches – has not gone away. Before the hurricanes passed through the region was doing record business with annual tourism growing at 4.9% – higher than the global average – a buoyancy reflected in the huge investments the luxury travel industry is making here. It is significant that well-known hotel brands are seeking a larger footprint in the Caribbean – Park Hyatt recently unveiled its first property in the islands on St Kitts, Oetker Collection has acquired Jumby Bay Island in Antigua while Belmond Cap Juluca will open in Anguilla late next year.
Independent initiatives, such as the much-anticipated debut of Silversands Grenada in March, which will boast the longest swimming pool in the region, are equally impressive.
Without doubt, the Caribbean and its beautiful islands will be visited by more hurricanes, but that's not going to stop us enjoying fabulous holidays there. Soon after Hurricane Irma struck the British Virgin Islands, Diane Wildenstein, owner of the exclusive getaway Valley Trunk on Virgin Gorda, sent out a heartfelt message that said it all: “The Virgin Islanders are proud, strong, very interconnected and resilient people. Trees grow back, boats can be replaced, from the ashes, roses grow.”
