The brave new world of fashion
i n t r o d u c t i o n This fashion portfolio aims to discover a trend that has been on the market this last season: autumn/winter 2009. The trend is entitled “The Brave New World of Fashion” by trend expert David Wolfe from The Doneger Group. This portfolio will examine this trend on several levels, such as Haute Couture, Prêt-a-Porter (Ready to Wear) and street style. It will also showcase inspiration boards for this trend and descriptions throughout the portfolio. The theme of this fashion portfolio is centred around space, the universe and stars as these reflect the best the idea of something NEW (this trend) within something EXISTING (fashion), and are the most related to fashion which is cyclical, presents constant changes, and have a high level of effect on society.
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Inspiration Boards Glamorous Depression
80’s on full power
Fashion Haute Couture Ready to Wear Hungarian Designers Accesories Own Interpretation
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Glamorous Depression
The great depression refers to the breakdown of the US economic system. It started with the “black Friday” in 1929 and lasted around a decade. Recover from this situation came by the Second World War and the 40’s. People in this bad, depressing situation were stuck on TV and the old Hollywood glamour was born. Ordinary people were inspired and motivated by Hollywood actresses and new York socialites such as Katherine Hepburn or Lucien Lelong’s wife Natalia Paley.
Beautiful love stories of the 30’s and 40’s
Hollywood swept the whole world.
These years were filled
with long bias cut dresses, draped silk and satin materials with a sophisticated attitude. big names in fashion: Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli, Lucien Lelong, Madelaine Vionnet.
The Eighties on Full Power
Fashion in the 80 suggested more than one trends. We are looking to describe the “working Girl� trend. This trend was all about big shoulders, small waist, suits for women.
TV shows were the biggest in-
spiration for the ordinary women such as Dallas and The Dynasty. The dynasty was one of the biggest Produced TV shows ever as producers recognized the importance of fashion in series. They observed that many women were inspired by them so styling became the essential part of the show. Lady Diana, Joan Collins, Margaret Thatcher and the Working Girl Movie were also very inspirational at the time and also now while looking back.
We are able to spot the trend in Haute Couture Collections of the Paris runway. Many of them used the 80’S working girl image and the sophistication of the 1930’s as inspiration. We can see many accentuated shoulders on suits and dresses. Materials that were mainly used are l e a t h e r, f u r, f e a t h e r s a n d s h e e r / s e e through fabrics. Dresses are long, trousers are wide legged, shoulders are accentuated, the colour is black and the skin is not explicitely shown.
Alexis Mabille
Armani PrivĂŠ
G i v e n c h y
V a l e n t i n o
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The trend we are aiming to illustrate is a mixture of the “Old Hollywood Glamour” and the eighties “Working Girl” attitude. The main characteristic of this style is a sophisticated grown up attitude. The interpretation of this trend on the runway featured many see through garments. The use of materials that can cover up the whole body while also not covering it was very popular and was present at many of the shows at the New York, London, Milan and Paris runways both at Haute Couture and P r ê t á P o r t e r. T h e m a s s i v e a p p e a r a n c e o f t h e v e l v e t , fur and leather is also noticeable. Many designers used them as part of their collections to create the fabulous look reminiscent of the 30’s and also the 80’s by creating wide shoulders and elegant, long feminine dresses. Velvet clothes were usually long and covered up most of the body. Designers used fur in many unusual ways such as fur tops, cardigans and snoods (new on the runway this season). Fur coats were used in colors and shapes that are reminiscent of the 80’s as they are usually short but at the same time give a glamorous outlook. Leather was used also in long sleeved dresses, gloves, thigh high boots, skirts and they were either quilted or cut and draped in interesting ways. They have wide shoulders, long sleeves and are loose fitted. Shoes were often thigh high boots or ankle boots and a lot of them with platform soles. T o s u m m a r i z e t h e t r e n d : d r e s s e s a r e l o n g e r, s h o u l d e r s a r e w i d e r, a t t i t u d e i s m o r e s o p h i s t i c a t e d w i t h g a r m e n t s that cover up the whole body now, and are of several layers. The main color is black. The “IT” bag is over; the main focus of fashionistas is now on bold jewelry and crazy shoes.
Hermes
Louis Vuitton
Alexander McQueen
Marc Jacobs
Dolce & Gabbana
Karl Lagerfeld
Roksanda Ilincic
Maison Martin MArgiela
Hussein Chalayan
Hussein Chalayan
Shoulders Accentuated
MaxMara
Alexander McQueen
Miu Miu
Junya Watanabe
Louis Vuitton
Kenzo
Hermes
Nicole Fahri
Dropped Hemline
Cavalli
Valentino
Hussein Chalayan
Versace
Yves Saint Laurent
Dresses and evening wear that cover you up
Gianfranco Ferre
Balmain
GBCB
Burberry
BCBG
Balmain
Armani
Chloe
Chloe
Bottega Veneta
Bottega Veneta
Betty Jackson
Balmain
velvet
Ralph Rucci
Alberta Feretti
Bernard Chandran
Dell Acqua
Andrew GN
Andrew GN
Byblos
Dell Acqua
Christian Lacroix
Bora Aksu
Alberta Feretti
s e e t h r o u g h
Betty Jackson
DKNY
r Dell Acqua
Burberry
Alexander Wang
Dell Acqua
Burberry
Dell Acqua
Antonio Berardi
Anne-Valerie Hash
Alexander Wang
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Alberta Feretti
l e Blumarine
Balmain
t h Blugirl
e Emilio Pucci
Andrew GN
Ann Demeulemeester
a r
Alberta Feretti
f a s h i o n
Nanushka
Dora Mojzes
Use Unused
Dora Abodi
Kata Szegedi
H u n g a r i a n
D e s i g n
The designers featured in this portfolio are the biggest names amongst the young in hungary. Kata szegedi is the best up and coming Hunagrian designer (won the prize), Dora Abodi is beginning to get known in the USA, and recently even style Bubble has had a post about her creations. she has been invited to a off schedule new york fashion show where she presented her collection in font of industry people, and received great reviews. Use Unused is a formation of designer, they are the oldest and most established amongst the yung designers. Dora Mojzes is a young designer as well who graduated from MOME, Budapests Arts University and she is also getting to experinece international recognition. and the last designer is Nanushka. She is hungarian as well but she hd graduated at LCF. her collections are very relaxed, almost even sporty. her inspiration for this collection was the partly the eighties. web pages: www.kataszegedi.com, www.doraabodi.com, www.use.co.hu, www.doramojzes.com and www.nanushka.com.
Chanel
Roksanda Ilincic
Givenchy
Burberry
Albino
Dolce & Gabbana
John Galliano
Armani
Chanel
Blumarine
bold accessories
Michael Kors
Fendi
Ashish
Armani
G l o v e s
Louis Vuitton
D&G
Antonio Berardi
Gianfranco Ferre
Dolce & Gabbana
Roberto Cavalli
Giles
Ferragamo
BCBG
Chanel
C r a z y S h o e s
These clothes are my own designs. The first one is a lace ensemble and the second one is a black see through jumper with a huge necklace (necklace is designed by dora, a fashion student). They convey the ideas of the “Brave New world of Fashion� trend, they are black, they are sleek and look sophisticated. These are my interpretations of the all black trend.
c o n c l u s i o n There are always several trends on the catwalk every season. From this last A/W 09 season the Doneger Group spotted a trend that they entitled the brave new world of fashion. The trend is new as there are many changes such as hemlines dropped, meaning that skirt and dresses are beginning to get longer, new materials are used, and the attention is on new items like shoes and accessories/jewellery instead of the “IT” bag. The portfolio shows that in this trend (that is reminiscent of the 80’s working girl and the 30’s Hollywood glamour) how many sub trends, aside of shapes and silhouettes, are present such as materials and accessories. Every clothes featured in the portfolio is a part of this trend, but are grouped under different themes, such as material and garment type.
b i b l i o g r a p h y
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Images: Runway images for international designers: www.catwalking.com for hungarian designers: their own webpages: www.kataszegedi.com,
doramojzes.com and www.nanushka.com inspiration board images: google background images: www.sxc.hu
Text: Homepages of fashion houses, google research about decades.
r e f e r e n c e s
www.doraabodi.com,www.use.co.hu, www.