Authors Frédéric Chevaillot, Paul Grobel and Jean-René Minelli have chosen 25 classic Écrins routes – graded between F and AD – that have come to be regarded as classics due to their quality, their altitude or, simply, their easy access. These routes provide the essential pleasures of mountaineering: getting off the beaten track, enjoying the pure mountain air and delighting in the charms of the high mountains. Most of these routes are at the boundary between hiking and technical alpinism and should be within the capabilities of any fit hiker-mountaineer. Routes and peaks featured include: the Aiguille du Goléon; the north ridge of the Aiguille Dibona; the south ridge of Pic Coolidge; the north-east face of the Meije Orientale; and the traverse of the Barre des Écrins ridge, plus many more. Each route features a detailed and comprehensive route description, a sketch map and a route summary detailing the start point, difficulty, timings, height gain, best time of year and the gear required. A conscious decision was made to limit the selection to relatively easy climbs, and so the routes described in this book – a mere fraction of the climbs in the magnificent Écrins Massif – should be within the capabilities of almost all mountaineers.
ISBN 9781906148829
9 7 8 1 9 0 6 1 4 8 8 29 >
629h VP - Ecrins Book (EN) 6.5mm OFC.indd 1
£14.95
MOUNTAINEERING IN THE ÉCRINS MASSIF – CLASSIC SNOW, ROCK & MIXED CLIMBS
Mountaineering in the Écrins Massif showcases the Écrins’ most beautiful summits through a selection of the area’s best lower grade snow, rock and mixed climbs.
ÉCRINS MOUNTAINEERING IN THE
MASSIF CLASSIC SNOW, ROCK & MIXED CLIMBS
Frédéric Chevaillot, Paul Grobel & Jean-René Minelli
09/01/2014 16:03
ÉCRINS MOUNTAINEERING IN THE
MASSIF
CLASSIC SNOW, ROCK & MIXED CLIMBS
A guidebook such as this can never be written alone, so the authors would like to thank everyone who helped them resolve uncertainties and overcome difficulties, especially: Denis Argentier, Bruno Bouchard, Jean-Louis Laroche, Florence Lelong, the Gaston Turc family, and our partners.
To all our friends who should have been here to enjoy this book but who departed too soon ...
Cover photo: View from the Ailefroide, looking across the Pilatte Glacier to Les Bans. Photos by Frédéric Chevaillot. Diagrams by Florence Lelong. First published in 2006 by Editions Glenat. Title of the original French edition: Alpinisme facile dans le massif des Ecrins © 2006, Éditions Glénat, 37 rue Servan, 38008 Grenoble, France. This English language edition first published in 2014 in the UK, Europe, India, South Africa, Australia and New Zealand by Vertebrate Publishing. Vertebrate Publishing Crescent House, 228 Psalter Lane, Sheffield S11 8UT, UK. www.v-publishing.co.uk All trade enquiries for this edition to: Cordee, 11 Jacknell Road, Dodwells Bridge Industrial Estate, Hinckley, LE10 3BS, UK. Copyright © 2006, Éditions Glénat. All rights reserved. No part of this work covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means – graphic, electronic, or mechanised, including photocopying, recording, taping or information storage and retrieval systems – without the written permission of the publisher, authors and editor. ISBN: 978-1-906148-82-9
Translated from the French by Paul Henderson (traduction@paulhenderson.fr). Produced by Rod Harrison, Vertebrate Graphics Ltd, based on an original design by Éditions Glénat. – www.v-graphics.co.uk
ÉCRINS MOUNTAINEERING IN THE
MASSIF
CLASSIC SNOW, ROCK & MIXED CLIMBS
Frédéric Chevaillot, Paul Grobel & Jean-René Minelli Translation by Paul Henderson
Vertebrate Publishing, Sheffield www.v-publishing.co.uk
CONTENTS
Introduction............................................................................... 6 1 Aiguille du Goléon: Via the Lombard Glacier.....................10 2 Pic Jocelme: South Face.........................................................12 3 Pic de la Grave: North Face..................................................14 4 Dôme du Monêtier: Pic de Pormillouse, Pic du Pif – Traverse................................................................16 5 Roche Faurio: South-East Face..............................................18 6 Pic Coolidge: South Ridge.....................................................20 7 Grande Ruine: Pointe Brevoort – North Face......................24 8 Tête de Lauranoure: North Slope & North-West Ridge....28 9 Pointes de la Pilatte: North Face & Ridge.........................30 10 Les Rouies: South-East Face & Traverse..............................32 11 Dôme de Neige des Écrins: North Face..............................36 12 Tête des Fétoules: North/North-East Ridge.......................40 13 Râteau (East Summit): South Ridge...................................44 14 Aiguille Dibona: North Ridge................................................48 15 Tête Nord du Replat: South-East Ridge..............................52 16 Roche Paillon: South Couloir & Traverse to Col Émile Pic......56 17 Meije Orientale: North-East Ridge.......................................60 18 Montagne des Agneaux: South-East Ridge........................62 19 From the Promontoire to the Aigle: Traverse of the North Face.....................................................68 20 Col Claire: North Face.............................................................70 21 Pic Central de la Meije: Doigt de Dieu North-East Face........74 22 Roche de la Muzelle: North Ridge & Traverse...................78 23 Mont Pelvoux: Traverse and Descent via the Glacier des Violettes................................................................82 24 Barre des Écrins: Traverse of the Ridge..............................86 25 Traverse of The Ailefroide: From the Orientale to the Centrale.........................................................................90 Practical information, hut access .....................................93 Lac du Sautey
L
Muzelle Hut Lac de la Muzelle
22
The circled numbers correspond to the routes listed in the table of contents. Each chapter includes a more detailed sketch map of the route in question.
1 Carraud Hut Valloire and the Maurienne
L Goléon Hut
P
L E. Chancel Hut
Aigle Hut
19
T
3
13
14 Alpe du Pin Hut
Promontoire Hut
15
Selle Hut
21 17
20 Alpe de Villar d’Arène Hut
Pavé Hut
Chatelleret Hut
Soreiller Hut
Adèle Planchard Hut
7
8
11
Lavey Hut
Lac des Rouies
Font Turbat Hut Olan Hut
Carrelet Hut
12
5
Écrins Hut
24
Glacier Blanc Hut
18
4 Lac de l’Eychauda
6
TempleÉcrins Hut
Col de la Lavey
25 Pilatte Hut
10
16
23 Pelvoux Hut
Sélé Hut
9
Pigeonnier Hut C du hale Gio t-H be ote rne l y
Bans Hut
2 Chabournéou Hut Vallonpierre Hut
Huts used as start points for the routes Other huts
INTRODUCTION THE CRADLE OF MOUNTAINEERING The Écrins Massif is a true cradle of mountaineering that has contributed to and followed the passing of trends and fashions without losing its fundamental character. Today, it is still an active hub for mountaineering in all its different forms. Easy Mountaineering showcases the Écrins’ most beautiful summits through a selection of the area’s best snow, mixed and ridge climbs. It also describes some wonderful, easy rock climbs on excellent rock. Our choice of routes was guided by the essential pleasures of mountaineering: getting off the beaten track, enjoying the pure mountain air and feeling close to the elements, that is, delighting in the charms of the high mountains. But it also provides a wealth of ideas for exploring the Écrins while gradually developing one’s mountaineering skills. The following pages present 25 climbs, rated between F and AD, described in ascending order of difficulty. Most of these routes are at the boundary between hiking and technical alpinism and should be within the capabilities of any fit hiker-mountaineer. Nevertheless, in order to climb safely it is essential to learn as much as possible about the mountain environment and to master a wide range of climbing techniques. The best way for beginners to develop their skills and become proficient mountaineers is to climb with a more experienced partner or a mountain guide. Climbing mountains is a wonderful experience, but only if you come back in one piece! At the Promontoire Hut, Gaspard the elder continues to watch over his mountain.
6
ABOUT THIS BOOK This guidebook describes 25 of the best easy climbs in the Écrins Massif. Each chapter begins with a route summary detailing the start point, difficulty, timings, height gain, best time of year and the gear required. These technical details are followed by the names of the first ascensionists, the date of the first ascent and an appreciation of the route’s character. The final section provides a comprehensive route description, illustrated with sketch maps and photos. This attention to detail makes this guide an invaluable source of information for budding mountaineers and more experienced climbers alike. The routes included in this book represent a mere fraction of the climbs in the area. More comprehensive information can be obtained from Snow and Mixed Climbs volumes 1 (2010) and 2 (due 2015) by Seb Constant and from the Oisans Nouveau, Oisans Sauvage Est (2011) and Ouest (2002) rock climbing guides by Jean-Michel Cambon (only available in French).
On the Glacier d’Armande, heading up to the Col Claire.
INTRODUCTION START POINT The routes are described starting from a car park, a bivouac or a mountain hut.
Ranging from F to D and then from 1 to 7, the technical grade indicates the difficulty of the hardest climbing/pitch on the route:
DIFFICULTY Each route is rated using the double-entry grading system introduced several years ago for ice climbs. The first grade (Roman numeral from I to VII) expresses the seriousness of the route, whereas the second grade (F to D then 1 to 7 for ice climbs, and from F to ABO for rock climbs) expresses the overall difficulty of the climbing. The technical difficulty of the hardest moves on rock climbs is rated using an Arabic numeral followed by a, b or c (from 3a to 9b).
SNOW, ICE & MIXED The seriousness grade, from I to VII, takes into account commitment, route length, remoteness, the difficulty of the approach and descent, the number of hard pitches, the quality of fixed gear and the exposure to objective dangers. The grade may be dictated by one or more of these factors: I: Short route, rapid access and easy descent. II: Longer or more technical route that may require extra care but with limited objective dangers. III: Long route, possibly remote, with a difficult descent. May be some objective dangers. IV: Very long route that should be undertaken only by experienced climbers. Some objective dangers. It may have a long approach and a complex descent. Retreat may be difficult. V: Long route on a big face with bold climbing. Climbers must have good technical skills (complex route finding, difficult to place protection, several difficult and sustained pitches). Retreat difficult. Long or difficult descent. Considerable objective dangers. VI: Route on a large face that may be climbed in one day by the best climbers. Nearly all the pitches are difficult and sustained. Rarely in good condition, complex route finding, poorly protected. Retreat uncertain. Long and difficult descent. A route that may be exposed to substantial objective dangers (seracs). VII: Even worse – or better – depending on your point of view!
8
F (facile): Easy route with no technical difficulties. PD (peu difficile): Moderately difficult route requiring proficient crampon technique and use of an ice axe. Belays may be required. AD (assez difficile): Quite difficult route with moderately steep slopes (45°–50°). D (difficile): Route with sustained slopes that are quite steep in places (50°–60°). Good climbing technique and skill in placing protection required. Grade 1: Long sections at 60°. Grade 2: Sections at 60–70°, with good protection. Grade 3: Sections at 70–80°, mostly on goodquality ice. Steep sections alternate with good rests where runners can be placed. Grade 4: Sections at 75–85°. May include short vertical sections. Generally good-quality ice and good belays. Grade 5: Sustained pitch with long sections at 85–90°. Very good technique required. Grade 6: At least one sustained pitch requiring excellent technique. Ice of variable quality. Belays and runners of dubious quality. Grade 7: Very hard. Excellent technique and a cool head are indispensable. X = risk ice may collapse, R = thin ice, M = mixed ground.
ROCK, FROM F TO ABO The overall rating of rock climbing sections takes into account both the technical difficulty and the seriousness of the climbing. The technical difficulty of the hardest moves is indicated by an Arabic numeral from 3 to 9, followed by a, b or c. Mountaineers are expected to be able to place nuts and cams and set up belays.
TIME Times are given for a party of two fit climbers of similar ability who have the technical skills needed for climbing the route in question. These times also assume good climbing conditions.
The Meije seen from the Lac du Goléon.
CONDITIONS – BEST PERIOD
CREVASSE RESCUE GEAR
Climate change has made the traditional concept of ‘season’ less and less valid, and snow conditions have become increasingly variable. As a result, the suggested best periods must be interpreted in the light of the actual conditions when the route is being envisaged. Reduced winter snowfall means that the snow routes described in this guidebook are best done as early as possible in the season (from early June). The best season for doing the rock routes has remained more stable and easier to predict. Whether you are intending to do a snow route or a rock climb, it is advisable to combine your own observations with advice from mountain guides, other climbers and hut wardens, and to check snow and weather reports.
Each member of the party must have a climbing harness, two ice screws, a threading hook (for ice threads), two mechanical rope clamps (tibloc, ropeman or similar) and two prusik loops, a long sling, a small pulley and four karabiners. Mountaineers are strongly advised to take a crevasse rescue course. Having ten metres of accessory cord in the bottom of your sack may greatly facilitate an unplanned retreat from a climb.
GEAR In addition to technical climbing gear, you will need warm clothing, mountaineering boots, rucksack, map, compass, altimeter, GPS, first-aid kit, radio or mobile phone, and food.
ROPES All obligatory abseils are noted in the text, giving their length. We recommend taking double ropes unless there are no abseils on the route, in which case a single rope can be used. The recommended length of rope is noted at the beginning of each chapter. Note: It is often advisable to have enough rope so you can abseil down the route if you are forced to retreat. Crampons should be fitted with anti-balling plates.
9
AIGUILLE DU GOLÉON (3427m) VIA THE GLACIER LOMBARD START POINT: Car park at 1880m at the end of the driveable track from Les Hières. GRADE: II/R. Long hike with a section on a glacier with few crevasses. The summit ridge is easy but exposed. TIME: 4hrs from the car park to the bivouac, 30mins for the summit. HEIGHT GAIN: 1545m. CONDITIONS: All year round. This is a wonderful ski tour in winter. GEAR: Crampons, ice axe, short single rope, harness, crevasse rescue gear. Not so long ago people believed the mountains were home to evil spirits, demons and other unnatural creatures. This ancestral fear has not disappeared completely, as many hikers and mountaineers find it hard to imagine spending a night in the mountains without the protection of a chalet or mountain hut. An ascent of the Aiguille du Goléon is the perfect opportunity for a first high-altitude bivouac. The climb is long but easy and the Glacier Lombard has very few crevasses. By bivouacking at the col above the glacier, the next day you can climb the final ridge at a leisurely pace and still arrive at the summit in time to catch the first rays of the morning sun.
And, with no rush to get back down, you can spend as long as you wish soaking up the outstanding views of the Meije and the Aiguilles d’Arves. It is not hard to ensure a bivouac is comfortable. All you need is good weather with no wind, good-quality gear and the discipline to ensure you pack only the bare minimum – food, water, stove and, of course, a camera. No need for a tent, just a camping mat, a warm sleeping bag and a bivvy bag. If there is a breeze, a low wall of stacked rocks will provide adequate shelter. The next day, before you head down, make sure you have left no trace of your night beneath the stars. Of course, the route can also be done after spending the night at the Goléon Hut or directly from the car park.
ROUTE DESCRIPTION Drive up the track from Les Hières (1782m), a tiny village above La Grave, to the car park after the hamlets of Valfroide and Pramailler. Follow the footpath along the valley floor, then go up the steep, glacier-carved slope to the Lac du Goléon (2438m). The Goléon Hut is on a small knoll just above the southern end of the lake. Continue past the lake and the ruins of the old Carraud Hut, then go up the steep scree or snow slopes (depending on the time of year) on the left to the Glacier Lombard. Cross the glacier, heading towards the obvious col at 3236m, to the left of the Bec de Grenier (good bivvy spot). Climb the ridge to the summit. Descend by the same route.
10
1
GALIBIER
3514
Above: On the summit ridge. Pic Bayle can be seen in the distance.
Glacier de Gros Jean
Aiguille Méridionale nale dd’Arve Arve Col
Aiguilles de la Saus Saussa Saussaz azz Lombard 3092
Below: Looking across the Glacier Lombard to the Aiguilles d’Arves.
Pointe te Salva Salvador vador dor 3202 320 2022
Col des Trois Pointes
Glacier Lombard Bec de Grenier 3298
Opposite page: The summit ridge.
Le Grand andd l Verdillon
Aiguille d’Argentière 3237
Le Petit L Pet Verdillon n
n
Val lo
ria
s du
au
cher
Ruins of the Carraud Hut
Côte
Ro
M
3427 3
Le
Aiguille A ig du Goléon G n du
Ro
La G r
ande
2480
Torre
c
he
Signal de La Grave 2446
de C
Le Serret des Morts
Les Rubans asse
Goléon Hut
Lac du Goléon 2548
2500
Pic des Trois Evêches 3116
To La Grave
Valfroide
11