13 0 Part 111: Discovering Cancun ___________ begin the moment you enter the anteroom, with its comfortable couches and chairs and selection of fine tequilas and martinis. The scene continues into a candlelit dining room with padded side chairs and tables that shim mer with silver and crystal. Elegant plates of peppered scallops, truffles, and potatoes in tequila sauce; grilled lamb; or mixed grill arrive at a leisurely pace after the appetizer. The restaurant has both smoking and nonsmoking sections. After dinner, take a turn on the dance floor in the adjacent lounge, as a band plays romantic rhythms starting at 8 p.m. The Club Grill is the place for that truly special night out. A dress code is enforced: No sandals or tennis shoes, and gentlemen must wear long pants. See map p. 127. Ritz-Carlton Hotel, Blvd. Kukulkan, km 13.5. 'ff 998-881-0808. Reservations required. Main courses: $11-$40. AE, DC, MC, V. Open: Tues-Sun 7-11 p.m.
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Et Fis/, Fritan9a
$ Isla Cancun SEAFOOD/MEXI CAN
A chef from a five-star restaurant told me about the incredible fish tacos at this secret little spot. While the sign for this pescadillas (fish tacos) palace is big enough, it somehow blends into the Domino's Pizza fronting Blvd. Kukulkan. El Fish Fritanga can only be reached by going down the stairs between the buildings to a wonderful little plot of sandy beach below. The plastic tables and chairs are filled with locals who know they can get tasty seafood cocktails, fish. and shrimp tacos, and fish filets for literally a fraction of the price served at restaurants along the strip. The owner, David Aguilar Osorio, got his hands on his grandma's recipes and decided to start a place where the locals could eat affordably in this tourist-laden part of Cancun. It became such a popular spot that he expanded the size and developed a dinner menu, making this not only a great place for lunch, but dinner, too.
See map p. 127. Blvd. Kukulkan 12 (next to Marina Paradise Pier). 'ff 998-840-6216. Reservations not necessary. Main courses: $2-$13. AE, MC, V. Open: Daily 12:30 p.m. to midnight.
Et Pescador
$$ Ciudad Cancun SEAFOOD
El Pescador prides itself as one of the best restaurants for fresh seafood in El Centro - just ask the a'pron-dad guys standing at the entrance, talk ing up the menu to passersby, on this popular downtown pedestrian street. While a lot of the hustling of neighboring restaurants promising free cocktails with your meal can be ignored, El Pescador consistently deliv ers good seafood; attesting to this is the line that often forms here for a table on the street-side patio or the upstairs venue. Feast on shrimp cocktail, conch, octopus, camarones a la criolla (Creole-style shrimp), and charcoal-broiled lobster. Can't decide? Try a little of everything with the Zarzuela combination seafood plate, cooked in white wine and garlic. El Pescador also features a Mexican specialty menu.
___________ Chapter 10: Settling into Cancun
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See map p. 129. Tulipanes 28, offAvenida Tu/um. 'ff 998-884-2673. Fax: 998-884-3639. Reservations not accepted. Main courses: $5-$30. AE, MC, V. Open: Daily 11 a.m.11 p.m.
Et Rincon def Vino
$$ Ciudad Cancun WINE BA R / INTERNATIONAL/ TAPAS
The first wine bar in all of Cancun was the inspiration of owner Leda Gamboa, who loved wine and often had friends over to uncork and unwind over good food. It was getting to be quite the expensive pastime, so she paired up with friend Alejandro Acevedo and decided to make a living extending "friendly gatherings." The thatched-roof palapa terrace, accented with twinkling white lights and soft live music, creates the ulti mate romantic setting to share good wine and an array of delectable appe tizers. The all-white, iiber-chic, and air-conditioned interior displays original paintings on stretched canvas and comfortable white couches for lounging. Watching the owner warmly greet famous Cancun restaurateurs and well-dressed Mexican socialites, it's immediately apparent that this place is no secret among the "in" crowd. However, the scene is hardly pre tentious, and as Leda Gamboa so eloquently put it, "We don't try to pre tend here. Good wine is what you like." And there are plenty of choices, with wines ranging from California classics like Silver Oak and J. Lohr to an incredible selection of burgeoning wines from Mexico - the majority of the wines on the list costing around $30. (Live music 9:30-11:30 p.m. Tues-Sat.) See map p. 129. Alcatraces 29 (near Parque de las Palapas). 'ff 998-898-3187. Reservations recommended in high season. Tapas: $4-$10. AE, MC, V. Open: 6 p.m. to midnight. Closed Sun.
Labna
$$ Ciudad Cancun YUCATECAN
To steep yourself in Yucatecan cuisine and music, head directly to this show case of Maya moods and regional foods. The interior's dramatically high step ceiling is covered in jute fabric, to make you feel as if you are dining inside a Maya pyramid. Specialties served here include a sublime lime soup, poc chuc (marinated, barbecue-style pork), chicken or porkpibil (sweet and spicy barbecue sauce served over shredded meat), and appetizers such as papadzules (tortillas stuffed with boiled eggs in a green pumpkin sauce). Some nights these specialties are served buffet-style or if ordering a Ia carte, you can try The Labna Special, a sampler of four typically Yucatecan main courses, to get a taste of the traditional. The refreshing Yucatecan bever age, Agua de Chaya, is also served here, a blend of sweetened water and the leaf of the Chaya plant, abundant in the area, to which D'Aristi liquor can be added for an extra kick. Thursdays through Saturdays, follow your meal with a live musical performance by popular Maya artists. See map p. 129. Margaritas 29, next to City Hall and La Habicula restaurant, Santa Marfa. 'ff 998-884-3158. www. labna. com. Reservations accepted. Main courses: $5-$18. AE, MC, V. Open: Daily noon to 10 p.m.