Australian motorcyclist august 2016

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UBBERY GLORY! CHECK OUT OUR BIG TYRE GUIDE OF 2016

ARS ID E : T E IN E E R F

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YAMAHA XSR900 THE WOLF THAT LURKS WITHIN

PIRELLI DIABLO ROSSO III A SPORTS TYRE THAT CAN TOUR!

TOUR SRI LANKA DISCOVER THE RARE AND THE BEAUTIFUL

MURDER & MAYHEM! WHO TAKES THE BULLET?

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AUS $9.95 (Inc GST) NZ $10.95 (Inc GST)

DUCATI X DIAVEL WHEN THE DEVIL RIDES

THROTTLE ROLL 2016 / INDIAN SCOUT 60 / WELLINGTON NP, WA / MUSTANG SEATS FACTORY TOUR / HARLEY-DAVIDSON ROADSTER / BULAHDELAH, NSW / TEAR-OUT MAP: VICTORIA DON’T FOLLOW THE NORM / BORIS ALMOST DIES / LESTER AND THE REACTOR

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“THE WINDSWEPT MOTORCYCLIST ESCAPES FROM REALITY TO DISCOVER BEAUTY AND RICHNESS OF INSTINCT”. DR CLAUDIO COSTA.

CONTENTS

SPORTING A LOT OF FUN. PAGE 52

SPECIAL FEATURE TYRES You always need rubber

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TESTING DUCATI X DIAVEL 5HGHÀQHV ZKDW D FUXLVHU LV PHDQW WR EH YAMAHA XSR900 :ROI LQ D UHWUR VNLQ HARLEY-DAVIDSON ROADSTER 5D]] WKH VSRUWVELNHV INDIAN SCOUT 60 :KDW·V LW DOO DERXW

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TRAVELLING SRI LANKA 7KH UDUHVW RI WKLQJV D QHZ DQG GLIIHUHQW GHVWLQDWLRQ BULAHDELAH No bull PUB OF THE MONTH 0XUGHU DQG 0D\KHP WELLINGTON NATIONAL PARK $ JUHDW OLWWOH GLVFRYHU\

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TEAR-OUT MAP PICTURESQUE LIMESTONE 7LPH WR JHW GLUW\ LQ 9LFWRULD

A WOLF LURKS WITHIN. PAGE 36

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EVENTS THROTTLE ROLL %LNHV PXVLF DQG KDYLQ· D JRRG WLPH INTERMOT 2016 *R \RX·OO HQMR\ LW

82 96

TECHNICAL PIRELLI DIABLO ROSSO III &KDQJLQJ XS WKH VSRUWV W\UH ZRUOG LONG TERMERS 5L]RPD·HULQJ WKH 6FUDPEOHU

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DIRECTLY INSPIRED AND DEVELOPED FROM THE CHAMPIONSHIP WINNING WORLD SUPERBIKES OF TOM SYKES AND JONATHAN REA, THE 2016 NINJA ZX-10R IS THE CLOSEST THING TO A FACTORY SUPERBIKE KAWASAKI HAVE PRODUCED YET.

Your Ninja... Your Kawasaki.

kawasakiaus

www.kawasaki.com.au

CONTENTS

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MUSTANG FACTORY Only the very best for your derriere

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USED & REVIEWED Only the very best for you

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BEHIND THE COUNTER Who is behind the counter at BM Motorcycles

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EMERGENCY Never make it so, again

EVEN MORE FUN 8

EDITORIAL He says to ride!

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GRIZZLING Shouldn’t he be hibernating?

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NEW IN THE SHOPS Spend it all!

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BACK ISSUES You want them, come get them CLASSIC MORRIS Put them in the brain reactor, Lester! WHAT SAY YOU Yes, we all want to know BIKE PRICES Ever changing world of pricing BEAR FACED Don’t just follow the norm BORIS Skippy almost got rid of him! SUBSCRIPTIONS Get us delivered to your door, every month

GOOD TIMES ROLL ON. PAGE 82

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NEWS Those men of steel

100 103 107 111 113 114 PIRELLI BRING THE

MAGIC. PAGE 46

Australian Motorcyclist

Australian Motorcyclist Magazine

Australian Motorcyclist Magazine

@AusMotrCyclist

PLEASE ENJOY AUSTRALIAN MOTORCYCLIST RESPONSIBLY AND ADD THIS ISSUE TO YOUR COLLECTION, OR DONATE TO YOUR LOCAL DOCTOR/HAIRDRESSER/DENTIST. MOST BACK ISSUES ARE STILL AVAILABLE. VISIT THE WEBSITE TO ORDER:WWW.AUSMOTORCYCLIST.COM.AU OR DROP US A LINE AT CONTACTUS@AUSMOTORCYCLIST.COM.AU AND GET WHAT ONLY AUSTRALIAN MOTORCYCLIST CAN GIVE! 6

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XSR700 Garage Metal or Forest Green

XSR900 Garage Metal or Rock Slate

EDITORSPEAKS Editor Stuart Woodbury Editor Emeritus J Peter Thoeming Sales Manager Mal Jarrett mal@ausmotorcyclist.com.au

what’s he blabbing on about now?

Photo Editor Nick Wood Designer Amy Hale Photographers Nick Wood Photography, Half-Light Photography Contributors Robert Crick, Mike Grant, Jacqui Kennedy, Robert Lovas, Phil Gadd, Boris Mihailovic, Lester Morris, The Possum,Guy Stanford, Stuart Strickland, Michael Walley, Colin Whelan Editorial contactus@ausmotorcyclist.com.au Subscription enquiries www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au info@ausmotorcyclist.com.au 0412 220 680 or 0418 421 322 Printer PRINTED IN AUSTRALIA Distributor Gordon and Gotch Australian Motorcyclist Magazine is published by Australian Motorcyclist Magazine Pty Ltd. PO Box 2066, Boronia Park NSW 2111 Phone 0412 220 680 or 0418 421 322. This publication is copyright. Other than for the purposes of research, study, criticism, review, parody or satire and subject to the conditions prescribed under the Copyright Act 1968, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted without the prior written permission of Australian Motorcyclist Magazine Pty Ltd. Opinions expressed within this publication do not necessarily represent those of Australian Motorcyclist Magazine Pty Ltd. No responsibility is accepted by Australian Motorcyclist Magazine Pty Ltd or the editor for the accuracy of any statement, opinion or advice contained in the text or advertisements. Readers should rely on their own enquiries in making decisions tailored to their own interest. *Recommended retail price Copyright © Australian Motorcyclist Magazine Pty Ltd ACN 161 432 506 ISSN 2201-5442

We encourage you to keep or recycle this magazine.

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FROMTHEBEAR

GRIZZLING TOUGH JUSTICE

The Justice Minister of the German State Brandenburg has resigned. So, you might well ask, what? Well, back in 2010 he apparently used a truck belonging to the State to transport his broken-down 6X]XNL *6; 5 IURP WKH RIÀFH to his usual bike shop. Admittedly, the RIÀFH LV LQ %HUOLQ DQG WKH ELNH VKRS LQ Leipzig, so he put 502km on the truck – and he didn’t repay the calculated cost of 435.30 Euros. So he quit - voluntarily. Now let’s see, what would you have to do here to be forced to quit (nobody leaves of their own accord)? For the same fate to befall a Minister in an Australian government he (or she) would probably have to pick up and deliver the bike by helicopter – and have silver service while on board‌

That’s good so far, Gaston. Now let’s try it with the bike off the centrestand.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY, WASP

0D\ \RX Ă \ IRU PDQ\ PRUH \HDUV 9HVSD Enrico Piaggio patented the design of the ubiquitous scooter designed by Corradino d’Ascanio on the 23rd of $SULO 7KDW PDNHV WKH 9HVSD \HDUV \RXQJ , KRSH ,¡P DV Ă€W DQG IXQ DV 9HVSDV DUH ZKHQ , UHDFK WKDW PLOHVWRQH

I HATE TO STEAL YOUR THUNDER, TEX‌

You might be aware of my mate Tex and his mate, the Dog on the Bike Bundy.

One of our contributors (or possibly ex-contributors‌) reckons that this sign proves I’ve been moonlighting, especially since the birthday is so close to mine‌

7H[ DQG %XQG\ KDYH VSHFLDO RIÀFLDO exemption from the law prohibiting carrying canines on motorcycles and have become famous on their many charity runs. But now Mary Thorn from Florida has hit the headlines with her on-board pet Rambo, an‌ alligator. $FWXDOO\ 5DPER QR ORQJHU ÀWV LQWR WKH FKLOG VHDW WKDW 0DU\ KDG ÀWWHG WR KHU Suzuki. At 1.8 metres long, Rambo can now only watch and dream, perhaps of a bike of his own‌

BMWS TO REPORT CRASHES

Take me to your kibbles, Earthling, or suffer the consequences. Nanoo nanoo.

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“Hello? Is this the emergency call centre? This is a BMW R 1200 GS. I’m lying in the gutter‌â€? That call is not far off. From next year on, BMW will begin

WR ÀW H&DOO WHFKQRORJ\ WR VRPH RI LWV bikes as an optional extra. When it senses a heavy impact, the system automatically calls and indicates location and direction of travel. False alarm can be countered within a 25 second delay, and the call can be sent manually, for example if the rider is calling help for someone else. The eCall system is becoming popular with car drivers in Europe. What do you think, will it catch on with riders here? One limitation might be that it works over the mobile phone network, and Australia is by no means all covered by that.

Peter ‘The Bear’ Thoeming

WHEN YOU RIDE A LEGEND, YOU BECOME ONE.

®

The new Harley-Davidson Roadster™ has arrived, and it’s already legendary. Stripped to the essential elements, the raw power, agility and garage-built custom style of this pure riding machine will shatter every mould. Become the legend you were meant to be.

FROM $19,495 RIDE AWAY. JOIN THE FIGHT. h-d.com.au/darkcustom © H-D 2016, Harley, Harley-Davidson and the Dark Custom logo are among the trademarks of H-D U.S.A., LLC. Overseas model shown.

#LiveYourLegend

NEWS

RECORDS TUMBLE 2016 Isle of Man TT This year’s Isle of Man TT saw lap records tumble with the new outright lap record set by Michael Dunlop at 133.962mph! Total race times also fell in both the RST Superbike and Pokerstars Senior TT – both won by Dunlop. Ian Hutchinson was the man of the meeting, taking home three winners trophies, winning both Supersport races on his Monster Energy Yamaha R6 and the Superstock title on his Tyco BMW S 1000 RR. Ivan Linton won the Lightweight TT and Kiwi, Bruce Anstey won the SES ZeroTT (for electric bikes). The rivalry between Ian Hutchinson and Michael Dunlop came to a head in the post-race press conference of the Senior TT where Hutchy said that he was “disgustedâ€? with the comments made by Dunlop over the second 6XSHUVSRUW UDFH ZKHUH D UXPRXU Ă HZ around that Hutchy had illegal pistons – when they weren’t. Hutchy went on to say that the organisers would need to apologise to him before he would return to the TT again – this came forthwith with the Technical Director apologising for anything that was said. Dunlop took it on the chin (sort of), which we assume only enraged Hutchy even more. Both riders are the ones to beat at the moment and both are pegging to be the highest winners of TT trophies. The score at the end of this year’s TT

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– Hutchy 14, Dunlop 13. Three Aussies contested the solos this year – Cam Donald, Dave Johnson and Alex Pickett. All three had their share of grief, but Dave Johnson had WKH KLJKHVW SODFH Ă€ QLVK RQ WKH 1RUWRQ with 7th and a 130+mph lap in the RST Superbike race. Cam Donald got 10th in the 1st Supersport race and had troubles in the other races and Alex Pickett got 31st in the 1st Supersport race with mechanical issues in the 2nd. On a sad note, four racers lost their lives this year. Aussie, Dwight Beare (Sidecars), “Spirit of the TTâ€? award winner, Paul ‘Shoey’ Shoesmith (Superbike, Superstock, Supersport, Lightweights), Ian Bell (Sidecars) and Andrew Soar (Superbike). Shoey’s

death shook up Johnson and Pickett, having both been riders for him in the past and being great mates. A sad end to an otherwise amazing 2016 TT.

KINGS OF FINKE KTM and Toby Price KTM Australia’s Desert team took all three steps of the podium at the Tatts Finke Desert Race, with Dakar Rally winner, Toby Price winning Finke for WKH WK \HDU LQ D URZ 1RW RQO\ WKDW Price completed his Ironman challenge of competing in both car and bike events. In his Stadium Truck, Price À QLVKHG QG RYHUDOO VW LQ FODVV DQG smashed the race record on the bike with a 3:46:55 total race time – what a champion!

NEWS

generation 1050cc triple engine, a suite of rider-focused technology the new Tiger Sport is not an everyday motorcycle – it’s the motorcycle you will want to ride every day. See your local Triumph dealer.

‘DISFINKELY’ ALICE

GET YOUR CARD Motorcycle Crash Card A motorcycle CRASH Card has been launched across NSW on 26 June. The card, placed in the lining of the helmet carries a rider’s personal and medical details. A sticker on the outside of the helmet alerts emergency services to its presence. Riders are also reminded not to attempt to remove another rider’s helmet. The card facilitates easy access for attending emergency services to vital medical and personal information at a crash scene. It saves emergency service personnel valuable time and assists with treatment, especially when the rider is unconscious or unable to communicate. Visit www.hornsby.nsw. gov.au/crashcard for your free card!

REDEFINED SPORT Triumph Tiger Sport The new 2016 Triumph Tiger Sport KDV EHHQ GHVLJQHG WR UHGHĂ€ QH WKH

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meaning of versatility and deliver the best of all worlds - from real sporting prowess, with more performance and thrilling riding characteristics - to milemunching touring, with more comfort and capability for hassle free long distance riding pleasure - to the simple fun and practical needs of everyday get on and go riding. Featuring a host of developments, including the next

Ride back to Alice – Indian Motorcycle A 2800km journey from Sydney to Ian Moss’ home town of Alice Springs raising funds and awareness for Black Dog Ride arrived late afternoon to a typical stunning red centre sunset and a township in the grip of motorsport fever for the weekend’s Finke Desert Race that took place. Ian Moss said “it’s been a long but enjoyable day on the ELNH JLYLQJ PH SOHQW\ RI WLPH WR UHĂ HFW DV , KHDG KRPH , DP WKULOOHG WR Ă€ QDOO\ get here and can’t wait to perform some songs from my new album Nashville Sessions for family, friends and fans at the Finke Desert Race.â€? Bidding for a Limited Edition Jack Daniel’s Indian Chief Vintage for the Black Dog Ride charity saw the eventual winner take it home at around $52,000. Visit www. indianmotorcycle.com.au and www.blackdogride.com.au

DON’T RISK YOUR HONDA ALWAYS DEMAND HONDA GENUINE PRODUCTS DOT 4 Brake Fluid

Honda Glare Combo Pack

HP Coolant - Green

HondabriteTM Spray Cleaner & Polish

Honda HP4 10W-30

Chain Cleaner

Chain Lube with Moly

hondagenuine.com.au

Contact/Brake Cleaner

Honda GN4 10W-30

LAUNCH

DUCATI X DIAVEL & X DIAVEL S X MARKS THE PLOT; DUCATI TURNS THE CRUISER WORLD UPSIDE DOWN WORDS STUART PHOTOS IKAPTURE

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The gentleman

www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au

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LAUNCH

D

ucati released the Diavel a few years ago as a part cruiser, part performance machine, and “released” is the right word. But despite its thinly-veiled aggression, the original Diavel was just a stepping stone. The factory’s full-on attack on the cruiser market has now been released with the introduction of the X Diavel and X Diavel S – proper cruisers, but not as you or I know cruisers, Jim... Ducati markets the X Diavel as “the gentleman and the bastard”, meaning that you are a gentleman off the machine and ride like a cut bastard on it. I assume. For the launch we were utter gentlemen by suiting up and dining at Ducati ambassador Matt Moran’s, Aria restaurant. Demonstrating the other side of the bike’s personality, even Matt couldn’t resist the inner ‘bastard’ coming out and started his shiny new X Diavel S in the middle of the restaurant. I’m

“TORQUE HAS BEEN SIGNIFICANTLY INCREASED OVER THE PREVIOUS MODEL AND YOU MIGHT NEED TO CUFF YOURSELF TO THE GRIPS TO GIVE YOURSELF A CHANCE OF KEEPING THEM ON THE HANDLEBAR” sure a number of guests in the other dining areas would have been… well surprised to put it mildly. There are three major design features of the new X Diavel that shift the Diavel platform right into the cruiser market. They are the forward pegs, belt drive and the torquey, stump pulling motor. The engine is no longer a donation from one of Ducati’s sports bikes. It is still an L-twin, of course, but

Yes, Matt Moran is a happy chappy having just taken delivery of his X Diavel S!

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LEG

BACK

CHEST

速

Adventure and boundless spaces: what the D-Stormer was designed for. With incredible versatility, this jacket can be used in extreme heat just as in intense cold: the modular construction that allows you to remove the thermal lining and waterproof and breathable membrane D-Dry速, are combined with an innovative ventilation system, which provides a modular control of airflow on the back, combined with ample ventilation on the chest and arms. Characterized by a look inspired by the world of rally, with many adjustments and pockets, D-Stormer will be the perfect companion on longer trips just as between the curves of the Alpine passes. D-Stormer is for use with Teren D-Dry速 pants and D-System Evo D-Dry速.

AUSTRALIA Cassons Pty Ltd P: +61(0)2 8882 1900 F: +61(0)2 8882 1999 E: enquiries@cassons.com.au W: www.cassons.com.au NEW ZEALAND Northern Accessories Ltd- New Zealand E: sales@northacc.co.nz W: www.northern.co.nz

LAUNCH

Stuart is wearing a Shoei NXR helmet, M2R jacket, Dririder Stealth gloves, Draggin jeans and Sidi Vertigo boots.

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The Bastard

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Australian Motorcyclist 2017 IoMTT self- guided tour

Cam Donald

Alex Pickett

WHEN: From Tuesday May 2 – Tuesday 11 July, 2017 (or longer by arrangement with Get Routed) CONTACT: Dave Milligan dave@getrouted.com.au 0412 689 849 and/or 03 5625 9080.

LAUNCH

Diavel might not handle as well as previously, or as well as many of the more fancied speed machines. You’d be wrong. Ducati has given the X Diavel 50mm adjustable DLC (Diamond Like Coating) coated forks and an adjustable monoshock with remote reservoir. Combine this with 40 degrees of lean angle and you can motor the X Diavel much faster than you might think. And depending on your inner bastard, you might well round up and laugh up those boy-racers on the latest and greatest sports bikes. Stop! No problem; the X Diavel is ÀWWHG ZLWK WKH ODWHVW %UHPER FDOLSHUV (M4-32 for standard and M50 for the 6 DQG %RVFK &RUQHULQJ $%6 They offer extreme levels of stopping power and it’s excellent KDYLQJ WKH FRUQHULQJ $%6 LQ FDVH things go wrong. Seeing it’s a cruiser, you would probably like the X Diavel to cruise with you out on the open road. Ducati has you covered; cruise control is ÀWWHG DV VWDQGDUG ,W LV QRW D QRUPDO ÀWPHQW RQ FUXLVHUV EXW LW ZRUNV ZHOO Further advanced electronics that come standard on the X Diavel include traction control, a selection of riding modes, hands free communication through the 3.5� TFT coloured dashboard, ride by ZLUH D %RVFK ,08 ,QHUWLDO 0HDVXUHPHQW 8QLW DQG RI FRXUVH WKDW FRUQHULQJ $%6 A seriously enjoyable new feature is DPL (Ducati Power Launch). This is

a launch control device if you feel the need for superfast takeoffs. There are three levels of the DPL, and it is a lot of fun to use. Controlling the various features and functions is done via the red-backlit handlebar switches which look extremely cool. Accessories can be bought individually or in one of the “packsâ€? Ducati has organised. Choices are 6SRUW 7RXULQJ RU 8UEDQ RU \RX could get all three. That would make the X Diavel look even more DPD]LQJ HVSHFLDOO\ ZLWK WKH Ă€ WPHQW of the forged aluminium rims, which look even sexier than the standard wheels! To match the style of your X Diavel, created with the genuine accessories, you can also get a full UDQJH RI ; 'LDYHO DSSDUHO 8UEDQ DQG FODVV\ LV WKH ZD\ ,¡G GHVFULEH WKH range – perfect for “the gentlemanâ€? (or “ladyâ€? for that matter) hidden away somewhere inside you. The Ducati X Diavel and X Diavel S both produce a paradigm shift in the cruiser world. Anyone after a custom, individual motorcycle that handles better than any other cruiser on the market, is faster than any other cruiser on the market and has the ability to tour as well as any RI WKHP , VD\ UHOHDVH \RXU LQQHU bastard and to hell with the standard PRGHO 5RE EHJ VWHDO WKH H[WUD Ă€ YH grand and get the S version and JLYH HYHU\RQH WKH Ă€ QJHU DV \RX EODVW them off the road on your exquisite custom cruiser.

SPECS

DUCATI X DIAVEL & X DIAVEL S PRICE: $27,490 & $32,490 (plus on-road charges) WARRANTY: Two years, unlimited distance SERVICING INTERVALS: Every 15,000km or 12 months ENGINE: Liquid-cooled L-twin cylinder, 4-stroke, 4 Desmodromically actuated valves per cylinder BORE x STROKE: 106 x 71.5mm DISPLACEMENT: 1262cc COMPRESSION: 13.0:1 POWER: 114.7kW @ 9500rpm TORQUE: 128.9Nm @ 5000rpm TRANSMISSION: 6-speed, wet PXOWL SODWH VOLSSHU FOXWFK EHOW Ă€ QDO GULYH SUSPENSION: Front, 50mm inverted fork, adjustable preload, compression and rebound, travel 120mm. Rear, monoshock, adjustable preload and rebound, travel 110mm. DIMENSIONS: Seat height 755mm, weight 247kg (wet), fuel capacity 18 litres, wheelbase 1615mm TYRES: Front, 120/70/ZR17. Rear, 240/45/ZR17 FRAME: Tubular steel trellis BRAKES: Front, twin 320mm discs with radial four-piston ABS calipers. Rear, 265mm disc, dual-piston ABS caliper. FUEL CONSUMPTION: N/A THEORETICAL RANGE: N/A COLOURS: Matt Black (standard), Glossy Black with matt black stripe and red pinstripe (S) VERDICT: REDEFINING “CRUISERâ€?

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OWN THE

ROAD

H-D.COM. AU/OWNTH EROAD

3.99% P.A.*

LOW RATE FINANCE NOW ON SELECTED HARLEY-DAVIDSON BIG TWIN MODELS UNTIL 31ST JULY

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COMPARISON RATE 5.99% P.A.† *Finance to approved consumer applicants on a secured fixed rate loan product. Finance is under a consumer fixed rate loan with a 48 month term. 10% deposit required. No Balloon available under this offer. † Comparison rate is based on a 5 year secured consumer fixed rate loan of $30,000. WARNING: This comparison rate is true only for the examples given and may not include all fees and charges. Different terms, fees or other loan amounts might result in a different comparison rate. Credit criteria, fees, charges and terms and conditions apply. Terms and conditions available on request. Subject to suitability. Harley-Davidson Finance is a registered brand name of Harley-Davidson Financial Services International, Inc. and is operated under sub-license by St.George Bank - A Division of Westpac Banking Corporation ABN 33 007 457 141 AFSL and Australian credit license 233714. Offer begins 1 June 2016 and expires on 31 July 2016. Applications must be submitted and approved by 31 July 2016 and vehicles must be delivered by 15 August 2016. Offer available on all Harley-Davidson models excluding Street, Sportster and CVO models. While stocks last. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer. © H-D 2016. Harley, Harley-Davidson and the Bar & Shield logo are among the trademarks of H-D U.S.A., LLC.

TRAVEL

SERENDIPITY DISCOVERING SRI LANKA BY ACCIDENT AND SAGACITY

“DOMINEDEFENDENOS CONTRA HOSMOTORESBOS” A D GODLEY

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M

ost recently its name was Ceylon; in ancient times it was called Ceilao, Zeylan, Taprobane… and Serendip. By way Horace Walpole, it supplied the word serendipity. Walpole derived the word from the tale of the “Three Princes of Serendip”, who “were always making discoveries, by accident and sagacity, of things they were not in quest of.” That describes quite nicely my recent couple of weeks in the teardropshaped island the size of Tasmania. With a population somewhat larger than Australia’s,

The countryside is lush and green

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Sri Lanka was always going to provide experiences to write about. But I didn’t expect quite the number and variety I found.

LET’S GET PHYSICAL

Yes, let’s get the basic facts over with. The island is relatively close to $XVWUDOLD LW¡V D WKUHH KRXU Ă LJKW IURP Singapore, which probably makes it the second-closest all-round motorcycle destination after New Zealand. It is certainly far closer than Europe or the USA. The countryside LV Ă DW DURXQG WKH HGJHV DQG LQ WKH north, with outstanding mountains in the middle. The mountains have wonderful names like The Knuckles Range, Bible Rock and Adams Peak. Another one, Namunukula, gives you a foretaste of the Sri Lankan predilection for long names. The trouble is that many names sound a bit like English words or phrases; every time I heard or saw Batticaloa couldn’t help thinking of “batty koalaâ€?. At sea level, Sri Lanka is clearly tropical with average temperatures around 27 degrees. Upland areas are cooler and more temperate with a yearly average around 16-20 degrees. At the coast the March-June season experiences temperatures up to 33 degrees, while November-January is around 24 degrees. Distinct wet and dry seasons are caused by the Yala monsoon in the western and southern regions from May to September and the Maha monsoon in northern and eastern Sri Lanka from October to January. The climate is at its most enjoyable in the drier seasons; the best time to travel to the west, south and upland areas of the island is during December to March, while the recommended travel season for the east coast region is April to September. You don’t necessarily have to stick to those dates, though! Sri Lanka has good, if terrifying, public transport. The red government buses are everywhere, mostly where you don’t expect them, and they care naught for right of way nor much for courtesy. They are the top predators, and you’d better not forget it. Most

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transport is taken care of by tuktuks, little three wheelers powered by anything from 50cc petrol engines to big diesels. A comprehensive rail network links major and many minor cities and towns. Propelled by diesel electric locomotives, the trains often combine passenger and freight cars. Old steam locos must hold happy memories for many people, because they are displayed all over the island. If you’re a steam train spotter I suspect you’d be in paradise. Well, you’re damn near in Paradise anyway, but the steam locos would make it even better!

RENT THE ROAD

I didn’t know this as my guide Rohan and I left Colombo on our 5R\DO (QĂ€HOG 6LQJOHV EXW 6UL Lanka’s roads come in only two kinds: they are either excellent or execrable. There really is nothing much in between. The road east and VRXWK LV RI WKH Ă€UVW NLQG DQG VWD\HG good pretty much all the way to our overnight stop in Hambantota on the south coast. And along the way I made the acquaintance of Rambo, a huge wild elephant. But let’s take it in order. Anyone who knows Colombo will try to get out as early as possible in the morning. In our case that was 5.00am, and we were only just in time. 7KH WUDIĂ€F ZDV DOUHDG\ EHJLQQLQJ WR build up as we reached Maharagama on the outskirts of the city. The WURXEOH ZLWK &RORPER WUDIĂ€F DQG WKH WUDIĂ€F LQ WRZQV RI DQ\ VL]H LV WKDW LW is just as impenetrable to motorcycles as it is to cars, mainly due to the three wheeler tuk-tuks but also to bicycles, cars, buses, vans and trucks. Let me explain. You may remember that you were taught the concept of “owning the roadâ€? when you were learning to ride. The idea is that you position yourself on the road in such a way that you control a sort of safety ]RQH DURXQG \RXUVHOI ,Q 6UL /DQND if you tried to “own the roadâ€? you ZRXOG LQVWDQWO\ Ă€QG \RXUVHOI VKDULQJ possession with two bicycles, three tuk-tuks and a bus. At least; possibly there would also be a few pedestrians.

This means that you only ever rent a piece of road, you don’t own it; the WUDIÀF LV FRQVWDQWO\ D VRUW RI PRYLQJ gridlock, highly competitive but surprisingly always good-natured. But that’s why we were leaving town early. 2QFH RXW RI WKH WUDIÀF RQ D JRRG road and able to devote some time to looking around – but still watching out for buses coming the other way overtaking tuk-tuks overtaking cars overtaking bicycles (and giving them less than a metre and a half of room!) – we found ourselves in something pretty close to paradise. Lush vegetation is everywhere and the views to the hills on one side and WKH à DW IHUWLOH FRDVWDO SODLQ RQ WKH other were almost overpowering. This is good land, and except where the elephants rule the roost (now there’s an interesting image) it is worked carefully and comprehensively. There’s not much spare ground. Sri Lankans work hard, and they deserve a breather after their long civil war. I wish them the best. But hang on; we’ve only just started‌ I was beginning to get used to the ZD\ WKH RQFRPLQJ WUDIÀF FDOPO\ claims as much of the road as it needs, and relaxing. Then, rolling along through the countryside and trying to take it all in, especially the bright, colourful roadside fruit stands, I suddenly noticed that Rohan was no ORQJHU LQ P\ PLUURUV 7KH (QÀHOG KDG stopped, but friendly locals took us to a mechanic literally a hundred metres away down the road and he replaced a blown fuse and sent us on our way.

ELEPHANT IN THE ZOOM

Just after lunchtime, we were riding along the Udawalawe Reservoir when I spotted a collection of cars and minibuses stopped by the roadside. Well, on the road, actually. Nobody really bothers to pull off the road in Sri Lanka. But in this case I could see why; just alongside the road, kept away from the vehicles and people by nothing more than a thin oneVWUDQG HOHFWULF IHQFH ZDV D VL]HDEOH elephant. This, Rohan explained, was Rambo and there were strict rules

against feeding him. The people from the vehicles were of course doing exactly that, and he had enough food in front of him to allow him to be highly selective with his trunk. Ah, banana. No, not quite ripe… what about this one? Hmm, maybe… ah, watermelon… good, good…

Accommodation is varied and pleasant.

Go see Sri Unlike most of my trips, this one was not an organised tour. It was a research run – Rohan, who hails from Sri Lanka but now lives in Sydney, is considering starting motorcycle tours of the island. He asked me to come along on a ride and give him some feedback. My feedback to him was simple – do it – but of course there was more detail to it. <RX·OO ÀQG PRVW RI WKDW LQ WKH VWRU\ -XVW LQ case I haven’t made myself clear, here is my recommendation to you – do it. Sri Lanka is that rarest of things, a new and different destination; unlike anywhere else I’ve ridden and full of things to discover. One of the things you’ll discover is just how many risks you’re prepared to WDNH LQ WKH WUDIÀF« Most of our accommodation was in motel-style places and was perfectly acceptable – even if the showers can be a bit unreliable. But when it’s hot you only want a cold shower anyway! Food is varied and slightly spicy; the locals think it’s really hot, but it’s nothing like some Indian food. Sri Lanka is relatively unexplored by Western motorcycle travellers because it isn’t really on the way to anywhere else. Let me tell you, it doesn’t need to be.

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mm, rambutans‌ He should be called Riley, because he was certainly living the life of.I used my zoom lens to get a photo – just in case the wire failed‌ there can’t be many other places where you can get this close to a wild elephant. Further south, not far from Hambantota, we passed enormous DUWLÀFLDO VDOW SDQV ZKHUH RFHDQ ZDWHU evaporates and the salt is collected DQG UHÀQHG +DPEDQWRWD LWVHOI KDV a kind of shabby joviality, catering mainly for European (including Australian) surfers and divers. Our hotel fronted the ocean and I sat at a table outside my room with a drink and tried to imagine what this place would have looked like when the

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tsunami roared ashore at Christmas in 2004. We had a quiet evening‌ Here’s a tip: beer bottles in Sri Lanka come in two sizes. Choose the smaller one, commonly called a “pintâ€?. In the big one, the beer will be warm before \RX¡UH Ă€QLVKHG Retracing our route for a while we continued north through more or less Ă DW FRXQWU\ FURVVLQJ /XQXJDPZHKHUD National Park, noted as elephant FRXQWU\ %\ QRZ WKH WUDIĂ€F KDG cleared up and much of the still excellent Chinese-built road was empty. There is a lot of wildlife here and elsewhere in Sri Lanka, ranging all the way down from elephants by way of deer and wild pigs to monkeys and small rodents, but you see little

of it during the day. “It’s not a good idea to ride at night,â€? said Rohan, in the understatement of the week. We passed a pile of green, steaming elephant dung in the middle of the road which well and truly reminded me just how big the tuskers can be. Rohan was keen to make sure that we didn’t linger‌ we did see a family of the pachyderms in the distance, feeding quietly. Towards the end of the day we hit a bit of drizzle as we climbed into the mountains. We stopped at the impressive Rawana Ella waterfall for pictures despite the rain. This is a special place, apart from being beautiful to look at. It seems that one

of the bad guys among the Hindu gods, Ravana, abducted Sita the consort of good god Rama, and took her to Sri Lanka. Rama sent monkey god Hanuman to look for her and he found her at this waterfall. I looked, but while I saw many good-looking young women I didn’t see any Hindu goddesses. Maybe you have to be a monkey. There were quite a few of those, looking pretty busy looking but I suspect they were after food not goddesses. After a night in a pleasant and comfortable b&b and dinner at a WHUULÀF OLWWOH UHVWDXUDQW LQ (OOD ZH headed back down the mountain to see the waterfall in sunshine and then continued west through

the high country. Overnight was at Rivendell, a stylish new guesthouse overlooking the Castlereagh Reservoir and extensive tea plantations. You can pick them by the big, multi-storey processing sheds (tea factories) dotted among the tea bushes.

TWO FOR TEA

I didn’t know that it was the British who brought tea cultivation to Sri Lanka. They also kickstarted the other major cash crops, coffee and rubber. Today we rode through almost endless tea plantations, completely unmistakable for the soft, rounded shape that the cropped bushes give the hills. Tea likes well-drained soil, and it covers vast stretches of upland

Sri Lanka. Tea plantations also exist in some lower parts of the island, but they produce poorer quality tea according to Rohan’s friend Kenny Congreve. There is an upper elevation limit to tea production, too, and we reached it when we came to the entrance of Horton Plains National Park. This was also where , ÀUVW HQFRXQWHUHG WKH FXULRXV EXW understandable entry fee policy which charges foreigners about ten times as much as locals. Sri Lanka, after all, depends on tourist rupees. The park is dedicated mostly to deer, and we saw a few of those. But it’s also an LPSUHVVLYH SODFH IRU WKH à RUD ZLWK open, windswept grasslands and twisted, stunted trees.

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We stopped at a small shack high in the hills where a woman was making IUHVK URWL WKH Ă DW EUHDG WKDW¡V HDWHQ everywhere in Sri Lanka with a dash of ground chilli. Washed down with a local soft drink the roti was pleasantly crunchy and tasty. Stopping for tea (of course) Kenny, D VFKRRO IULHQG RI 5RKDQ¡V ZKR LV a tea taster and quality manager, continued my education. I had a cup of quite strong tea without milk or sugar (or lemon, which is what I usually have) and found it smooth to WKH ODVW GURS 1R ELWWHUQHVV OLNH D WHD EDJ FXSSD 6R WKDW¡V ZKDW UHDOO\ JRRG tea is like. More tea plantations accompanied us as we turned east the next day. As ZH GURSSHG EDFN WR WKH OHYHO FRDVWDO SODLQ WHD ZDV UHSODFHG E\ ULFH DQG YHJHWDEOHV DQG D IHZ VWUHWFKHV RI WKH EUXVK WKDW I had learned to recognise as elephant country. We stopped at a large temple complex at Kataragama and I discovered that the tempting fruit GLVSOD\HG IRU VDOH E\ WKH VLGH RI the road was intended as offerings for the temples; everyone was EULQJLQJ ODYLVKO\ GHFRUDWHG GLVKHV of fruit which they were handing to WKH SULHVWV 1RZ KHUH¡V VRPHWKLQJ interesting: the temple complex had a Buddhist shrine next to a Muslim one, next to a Hindu one. I was told that the Christian chapel was just RXWVLGH WKH ZDOOV 6UL /DQND FDQ EH D UHPDUNDEO\ HFXPHQLFDO SODFH /DWHU in Kandy, I noted that the YMCA, the YMBA and the YMMA were practically next door to each other‌ Riding up the east coast the next PRUQLQJ ZDV UHDOO\ HQMR\DEOH 7KH road spends a lot of time on the VHDIURQW DQG EHWZHHQ WKH SDOPV WKH VDQG WKH PDQ\ Ă RZHUV WKH EULJKW JUHHQ SDGG\ Ă€HOGV DQG WKH FKDQFH RI VSRWWLQJ HOHSKDQWV LW¡V DOO UDWKHU LG\OOLF :KDW¡V OHVV LG\OOLF LV WKH WKRXJKW WKDW just one elephant can destroy six PRQWK¡V ZRUN LQ D QLJKW LI LW JHWV LQWR D IDUPHU¡V Ă€HOG

CSI MAHIYANGANA

We eventually turned inland again, RQ RXU ZD\ EDFN WR WKH PRXQWDLQV

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Maybe these people could have used a real bridge instead of an airport.

Build it, and‌ If you think that Australia’s pollies, sorry, parliamentarians, are good at pork barrelling, you haven’t met their Sri Lankan mates. Just one example: apart from its main airport near Colombo, the island has a complete, modern and fully operational $210 million international airport in the south called MattalaRajapaksha.This airport LV HIIHFWLYHO\ FORVHG 7KHUH DUH QR Ă LJKWV WR or from it except for occasional visits by Flydubai, a budget carrier. Nobody else ZDQWV WR Ă \ WR RU IURP LW %XW ² JXHVV ZKDW ² LW LV LQ WKH KRPH GLVWULFW RI WKH H[ President, and it was built during his rule. The nearby town, Hambantota, is a sleepy VXUĂ€H KLSSLH KDQJRXW NLQG RI OLNH D WLQ\ UDWKHU WDWW\ UXQGRZQ² DQG GLG , PHQWLRQ VOHHS\" ² %\URQ %D\ \HDUV DJR 5HFHQWO\ the airport earned 16,000 Sri Lankan rupees in an entire month.That’s a hundred and twenty dollars. Puts National Party projects into perspective, doesn’t it‌ and in Sri Lanka, corruption takes many other forms as well. It’s a real shame.

and then Kandy. The road became variable, and for a stretch we followed an ancient canal that connects two lakes or “tanks�, as the locals call them in the Indian fashion. Where there were potholes and patches, there were usually lots of potholes and patches so I learned to get used to the rough and enjoy the smooth. It was hot, as it had been all the time except high in the mountains,

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Rohan trawls for deer up on Horton Plains National Park.

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and we stopped for a cold drink. Unfortunately that’s not so easy. Most Sri Lankan country stores (and there are thousands of them) have a refrigerator. But it’s usually turned right down, presumably to save electricity, so cold drinks are actually more like cool-ish or lukewarm drinks. But then the jig was up. I noticed the cops by the side of the road with their standard Yamaha 600cc police bike, waiting in the shade of a couple of trees. They were not WKH Ă€UVW SDLU ,¡G VHHQ %XW WKLV WLPH one of them stepped into the sun and held up his hand to stop me. I had been warned not to hand over any original documents, so when he asked me for my driver’s licence I pulled a photocopy from my tank bag. Unfortunately I had not counted on the rain we’d had; the once neat copy was now a seriously tatty piece of half-dissolved damp paper. To his credit, the policeman took it and peered at it quizzically before asking for the original. I told him that it, and my passport, were “back in the hotelâ€?. He shook his head and waved Rohan and me on. Next came the famous eighteen hairpins of Mahiyangana which took us back up into the highlands. This road would stand comparison with any mountain road in the world, with one reservation: you’re likely to encounter a tuk-tuk, a car or even a bus coming the other way on the wrong side of the road. That can be‌ disturbing when you’re leaned right over and scrabbling for traction among the light dusting of gravel.

KANDY MAN

Kandy, the beautiful old city in the KLJKODQGV LV EHVHW E\ WUDIÀF OLNH any other Sri Lankan town or city, but somehow it all seems more relaxed. It may have been helped by the hotel where I was staying; another of Rohan’s school friends owns and runs the Mahaweli Reach Hotel, which is a wonderful place to relax from the busy-ness outside. Overlooking the river after which

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it is named, it consists of carefully designed buildings and gardens surrounding a large asymmetric swimming pool. And the barman makes whisky sours to kill for. I was so relaxed during my stay that I totally forgot to send Rohan’s clothes, which he’d left with me while he stayed at his club, off to the laundry with mine. He is not going to let me forget that, I suspect… The quality of the rooms and the food matches everything else about the hotel, and I treasure the memory of sitting high above the river on a landing having dinner by lamplight in the gathering darkness. One reason for the time I’m spending on the Mahaweli Reach Hotel is that it illustrates the difference between chain hotels – Hilton, Sheraton – and familyowned places which always offer that something extra. Unlike Colombo, which I’d cheerfully miss, I would strongly recommend that you visit Kandy. Have a gin and tonic in the upstairs bar of the colonial-style Royal Bar & Hotel in the middle of the city, too. Top place. We took the road north from Kandy to Matale, and shortly afterwards turned east on a narrow and fairly rough road. It was worth every patch and pothole, though, for the views over the Knuckles Ranges, named because that’s exactly what they look like. A snack stop at a café precariously hugging the hillside gave me a chance to recover from the road. Eventually we returned to the (usually Chinese-built) network of excellent roads that knits Sri Lanka together and continued to make our way north. This is open country with only small settlements and we made good time. Despite that, Rohan was a little concerned as we reached Giritale. He had intended to show me the ruins of the ancient city of Polonnaruwa to the east, but it was getting late – at least for Sri Lanka. “This is elephant country,” he said as we turned west instead on our way to Sigiriya, “and it’s best to be off the road by 3.00pm.” That sounded like

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Eating, as usual – it’s a ZRQGHU KH VWLOO ŸWV LQWR WKH suit. (Photo Rohan Sourjah)

Wearing it out I am making the most of my Venting Suit from BMW. In hot, humid weather it is unbeatable and it looks pretty good to – and that’s saying something when I’m the model! My Shark à LS IURQW KHOPHW DQG %0: YHQWLODWHG boots did a great job too.

good sense to me. Those buggers are big, and the heat made them what Rohan called “crankyâ€?. We had a chance to see just how big they are a little later when we came across a pair of domesticated elephants being scrubbed in a river. Sigiriya is a 200 metre high rock S\ORQ VHW LQ Ă DW FRXQWU\ WRSSHG by the remains of a palace (or a monastery) and surrounded by H[WHQVLYH JDUGHQV DQG IRUWLĂ€FDWLRQV The climb is a bit of a job (do it in the morning before it gets hot) but the effort is well worth while, both to see the amazing wall paintings and to get an idea of the engineering effort expended here, back in the 5th Century. I agree with the locals who call it one of the wonders of the world. There is a chance that it may be closed to tourists, so climb it while you can! Next morning we allowed ourselves time; our day’s destination was the

ancient capital ofAnarudhapura, not far away to the north. Rohan still wanted to get there early, and once we had arrived I understood why: Anurahapura holds a remarkable number of historic ruins and temples, including the tallest stupa (one of those semi-circular domes with a small tower no top) in the world. I got to see people going to WKH WHPSOH RIIHULQJ VDFULÀFHV DQG praying; a wonderful opportunity. We had dinner with another of Rohan’s school friends and his family. They own a Yamaha shop, and discussing the differences and similarities EHWZHHQ 6UL /DQND DQG $XVWUDOLD ÀOOHG the evening. It seems that there isn’t really all that much difference! The largest capacity bikes allowed to be registered in Sri Lanka are 400s. Anything larger, according to one grinning local informant, was seen by the police as a threat to their monopoly on power with their 600cc Yamaha police machines. This was why Rohan and I were riding 350cc 5R\DO (QÀHOGV QRW FF %XOOHWV Don’t worry if you bring your own bike; it doesn’t seem as if temporary imports are restricted.

HOME RUN

And then it was all downhill, or south anyway‌ we left Anuradhapura next PRUQLQJ WKLV WLPH ZKHQ WKH WUDIÀF had had time to get going – or maybe I should say stopping – but the city has fewer than 70,000 inhabitants VR WKH WUDIÀF MDP FRXOG RQO\ JHW VR bad. Then we were on the road to

the coastal city of Puttalam. Another good run, with only one major town and a few small places to slow the ride. A bike is the perfect way of getting DURXQG 6UL /DQND EHFDXVH \RX Ă€QG yourself concentrating on the world around you, and here you get to see a lot of things – people working in WKH SDGG\ Ă€HOGV ELUGV ² RRSV FRSV hiding in the shade again –and lots of other animals including monkeys. The dogs have a lot of road sense, although you see the occasional one with three legs. Rohan said, “Of course they have road sense. They’re alive.â€? People spend a lot of their lives by the roadside, either selling stuff, walking along or working in WKH Ă€HOGV 7KH\ KHUG ZDWHU EXIIDORV and the kids wander to and fro from school. Sri Lanka has a very high literacy rate; in fact, education in general is highly regarded. The run south from Puttalam to Colombo was the least interesting part of the ride, with one town snuggling up against the next and very little evidence of anything other than day-to-day commerce. Mind you, it was still interesting to mix it with the trucks, buses and everpresent tuk-tuks; you would never JR WR VOHHS LQ 6UL /DQNDQ WUDIĂ€F We left the main road for a while in Negombo and stuck to the coast road, which was less crowded and took us past some relics of Dutch rule. Coming into Colombo we followed a canal for a few kilometres that also had touches of Dutch-ness. No, don’t ask me what that means; go and see it and you’ll know. And then it was all over. It’s funny to think that the place is no bigger than Tasmania; it certainly seems bigger with all those people. People, by the way, who were unfailingly friendly and welcoming, and who didn’t ever hassle me the way they do in some other countries. Keep an eye on our pages, especially TOP TOURS, for news of Rohan’s organised tours. I can guarantee already that you will have a wonderful, and serendipitously enjoyable time.

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BIKETEST

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YAMAHA XSR900 PSYCHODELIA WORDS STUART PHOTOS NICK WOOD

L

ady Caroline Lamb described Lord Byron as “Mad, bad and dangerous to know.” She might have said the same about this bike… Based on the insane Yamaha MT-09 the release of the retro XSR900 makes it a ‘psychodelic’ ride, man! Psychotic power, combined with improved handling and retro and customisable looks is just what the spin doctor ordered. It’s also a bike I’ve longed for – an understated powerhouse that makes me giggle (uh oh – the sub) when I just sit on it! On top of the equipment of the MT-09 which it’s based, the XSR900 has been given traction control and ABS. To be

honest, I don’t like either of them on this bike, they can spoil the insane fun that can be had. Luckily you can turn the traction control off, but you can’t disable the ABS and the front cuts in too early for the super powerful radial mount package the bike wears. Not to worry; there’s always a way of disabling the ABS (not that you should! – I’m not suggesting that!) If you want the added safety of the traction control there are two settings and off, and both work well if you do switch it on. The MT-09 has been in desperate need for better suspension, and this bike has it in what Yamaha describes as “XSR dedicated

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37

BIKETEST

suspension settings”. No one was able to enlighten me further as to what they actually did, so it could be springs only, or an entire revision. To me it feels like WKH\·YH SXW À UPHU VSULQJV IURQW DQG UHDU and revised the valving for a smoother action. Either way the handling of the XSR900 is bang on the money and adjustable both front and rear if you ZDQW WR À QG D À QHU VHWWLQJ MXVW ULJKW for you. The short wheelbase of the XSR900 will save you money on wear to the front tyre. Get used to it, it is hard to keep the front wheel down, even with the traction control switched on. The engine is unchanged from the MT-09, however the power modes (A, Standard & B) have been revised to give smoother delivery. When I rode the MT-09 I noticed the rather direct acceleration, especially when in mode A.

Stuart is wearing an Rjays Carbon helmet, Dririder Scrambler jacket and Held Satu gloves.

Brother customiser Not only has the MT-09 been turned into the XSR as you read in this test, but the extremely popular MT-07 has also been given the XSR treatment. Predictably called the XSR700, this LAMS approved model looks similar to the XSR900 but is lighter and able to be ridden legally by Learner and Provisional riders. If the XSR700 had been available when it came time to purchase the MT-07 I bought, I would have opted for the XSR version.You really can customise it into your own personal bike, which is great.

38

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1

YEA

rrp inc gst

Booster $79.95

Polar Control II $69.95 rrp inc gst

AUSTRALIA Cassons Pty Ltd P: +61(0)2 8882 1900 F: +61(0)2 8882 1999 E: enquiries@cassons.com.au W: www.cassons.com.au NEW ZEALAND Nothern Accessories Ltd E: sales@northacc.co.nz W: www.nothern.co.nz

rrp inc gst

NT

rrp inc gst

Y

nteed

H20 III $69.95

Tornado $79.95 rrp inc gst

Evo III $59.95

TY

Ice Lord $89.95

a

RA

AN

a gu

r

R R

WA R

A

rrp inc gst

Tempest III $59.95 rrp inc gst

Mens Sizes

Female Sizes

Genuine Leather

Knuckle Protection

Thinsulate Thermal Insulation

Hipora -100% Breathable & Waterproof

Stretch Panels

Reflective Material

BIKETEST

“PSYCHOTIC POWER, COMBINED WITH IMPROVED HANDLING AND RETRO AND CUSTOMISABLE LOOKS IS JUST WHAT THE SPIN DOCTOR ORDERED" Shades of YICS – who remembers that? The revision has taken away the jerkiness at a light constant throttle, which is perfect. An assist and slipper clutch has also been added for smoother riding and it works well with the triple cylinder characteristics. It’s also made the clutch lever a bit lighter which is always welcome. Ergonomics seem to be very similar to the MT-09’s but the XSR900 is all about the retro look and customisable features and the tank is a little wider at the rear. In light of this, Yamaha has an extensive OLVW RI DFFHVVRULHV WKDW FDQ EH À WWHG XS to the XSR900 (and XSR700). The two main accessories that really change the look of the XSR900 are the Ultrasuede seat and the Seat Cowl. To further ‘retro-ise’ the look you can get canvas luggage, a low position handlebar and bar end mirrors. The other accessories in the range are detail type pieces, but you can also get a range of exhausts to get the exact look you’re after. Still in GHYHORSPHQW LV D FDUERQ À EUH KHDGOLJKW cowl which was on display at last year’s Sydney Motorcycle Expo. Styling sees the use of metal, rather than plastic. The tank and rear guard on the XSR900 are made from aluminium and the silver of the version we tested is actually not paint but brushed aluminium. You also get aluminium headlight stays, a round retro styled

headlight, stitched two-level seat, a 12V socket underneath at the under-tray and the thing you’ll be looking at most is the new, offset round TFT digital instrument dial. Two colours are available, the ‘Garage Metal’ we tested, but also a lovely Rock Slate which is a mid-metallic blue. Yamaha is promoting the fact that you can convert this into your very own by painting it another colour, or XVLQJ YDULRXV PHWDO À QLVKHV WR JHW WKH look you’re after. The target customer for the XSR900 (and 700) is someone who appreciates heritage style with performance. I’m not sure the ‘hipster’ crowd Yamaha appears to be targeting will be after this kind of thing (or prepared to pay for it), whereas general riders like you and me will be looking to get our bums on an XSR with enthusiasm. If you want to see what can be done with an XSR, check out Faster Sons, Wrenchmonkees and Roland Sands Design. All three have created beautiful motorcycles, if retro custom is your thing. Or, you might like to do a tribute bike, just like the job that Yamaha Motor Australia has done with both the 700 and 900. The 700 has been turned into a ‘DT1’ look and the 900, an RZ350 which I fell in love with as soon as I saw it. So, it’s time to get the tools out of the toolbox and start tinkering with the ‘psychodelic’ Yamaha XSR900, all the while knowing that you have an amazing performance motorcycle underneath the changeable skin.

Special and delightful. Pity they made them out of pre-production models.

YAMAHA XSR900 PRICE: $12,999 (plus on-road charges) WARRANTY: Two years, unlimited distance SERVICING INTERVALS: Every 10,000km or 12 months ENGINE: Liquid-cooled three cylinder, 4-stroke, DOHC, 4 valves per cylinder BORE x STROKE: 78 x 59.1mm DISPLACEMENT: 847cc COMPRESSION: 11.5:1 POWER: 84.6kW @ 10,000rpm TORQUE: 87.5Nm @ 8500rpm TRANSMISSION: 6-speed, wet multi-plate slipper clutch, FKDLQ À QDO GULYH SUSPENSION: Front, 43mm inverted fork, adjustable preload and rebound, travel 137mm. Rear, monoshock, adjustable preload and rebound, travel 130mm. DIMENSIONS: Seat height 830mm, weight 195kg (wet), fuel capacity 14 litres, wheelbase 1440mm TYRES: Front, 120/70/ZR17. Rear, 180/55/ZR17 FRAME: Diamond cast aluminium BRAKES: Front, twin 298mm discs with radial four-piston ABS calipers. Rear, 245mm disc, single-piston ABS caliper. FUEL CONSUMPTION: 5.41 litres per 100km, premium unleaded THEORETICAL RANGE: 258km COLOURS: Rock Slate, Garage Metal VERDICT: PEEL THE SKIN OFF THIS PSYCHO!

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TRAVEL

BULAHDELAH ROCK ’N’ ROLL

WORDS/PHOTOS THE BEAR

B

ulahdelah means Big Rock, which LV D WHUULÀF QDPH IRU LW EHFDXVH D ELJ URFN LQ WKH IRUP RI $OXP Mountain, overlooks the town. It XVHG WR EH PLQHG IRU DOXQLWH DQ RUH RI DOXP ZKLFK LV ZKHUH WKH QDPH FRPHV IURP , KDG QHYHU KHDUG RI DOXP until I started writing WKLV VWRU\ EXW LW WXUQV out that it has a vast QXPEHU RI XVHV ,W was once sold in WKH IRUP RI VW\SWLF SHQFLOV WR VWRS EOHHGLQJ DQG FDQ HYHQ EH WXUQHG LQWR jewellery. Isn’t that fascinating" 6WRS WKH PRDQLQJ EDFN WKHUH 1H[W WLPH \RX VWRS LQ %XODKGHODK RU SDVV LW RQ WKH QHZ 3DFLÀF +LJKZD\ VHFWLRQ \RX·OO EH DEOH WR VD\ WR \RXU DGRULQJ OLVWHQHU HLWKHU E\ LQWHUFRP RU IDLOLQJ WKDW E\ VKRXWLQJ ´<RX PLJKW QRW NQRZ WKLV EXW WKH $ERULJLQDO

42

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SHRSOH XVHG WR FDOO WKDW ELJ URFN %LJ Rock, and the early settlers mined it WR PDNH SHQFLOV WR VWRS EOHHGLQJ DIWHU

VKDYLQJ +HOOR" %ORRG\« JRQH WR VOHHS DJDLQ µ But that’s okay. Wake them with the

news that you are considering a visit WR :LOOEHH 7RSV WR KDYH D ORRN DW WKH HGLEOH VQDLO IDUP FDOO -RKQ RU 'HE RQ RU 0D\EH they do takeaways! But that’s not in Bulahdelah, LW·V XS DORQJ 0DUNZHOO 5RDG on the way to Gloucester. 1RERG\ JURZV VQDLOV LQ WRZQ DV IDU DV , NQRZ 7KH WRZQ ZDV SUREDEO\ EXLOW originally to service WKH $OXP 0RXQWDLQ mine. Barges used WR FRPH XS WKH ULYHU to collect the mineral. 7KHVH GD\V WKH WUDIÀ F is the other way with SHRSOH KLULQJ KRXVHERDWV DQG KHDGLQJ GRZQULYHU WR %RPEDK Broadwater and the other Myall lakes. ,W ZDV WKLV DQG WUDYHOOHUV RQ WKH 3DFLÀ F +LJKZD\ VWRSSLQJ IRU IXHO IRRG RU D QLJKW·V VOHHS WKDW PDGH WKH WRZQ SURVSHU (YHQ WRGD\ LW PDNHV D JRRG

stop if you’re heading north and get away late from Sydney – it’s only two and a half hours by the highway – or if you’re coming south and it’s getting a bit too late to push on to the smoke. It’s a bit early to tell what the new 3DFLÀ F +LJKZD\ E\SDVV ZLOO GR WR Bulahdelah. There are quite a few “for sale” signs on businesses around town, but I suspect that the town will not only survive but prosper. It’s the main turnoff to the beautiful Myall Lakes, and it’s a good base to check out a number of other attractions as well. So let’s see where you might like to roll around the rock!

DEVIL’S HILLS

This is a range of, well, hills predictably enough, between the Bucketts Way at Booral south of Stroud, and Bulahdelah. It’s not a brilliant road as far as condition is concerned, but it is fun to ride. Beware – there is one hairpin which can easily catch out any young players. If you’re

coming from the south, from Sydney or Newcastle, say, take the Bucketts Way and then cut across to the Bulahdelah Way rather than going up the (not very interesting) highway. The only services are at either end.

WOOTTON WAY

North of Bulahdelah, this is the old highway which was replaced by the freeway. It has some dual road and

riding it is a bit of a strange experience because it is practically unused. Beware the surface; moss grows on it, deep leaf mulch makes it slippery and water runs across it, often marked by lichen growth. Eerie but interesting. There is a rest area on the western side of the road, below Sullivans Gap, which is actually quite nice now it doesn’t get much attention any more. It has SRWHQWLDO IRU FDPSLQJ 7KH ELJ Á RRGHG

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TRAVEL

WKH %URDGZDWHU DQG RQ GRZQ WR Hawks Nest and Tea Gardens. This URDG PDNHV D JRRG DOWHUQDWLYH ZKHQ returning to Sydney or Newcastle; it is sealed but can get a bit sandy when the wind blows. There are FDPSLQJ RSSRUWXQLWLHV RQ WKH ODNH shore and also, if you don’t mind walking a bit, on the sea side. There are gas barbecues, tables and toilets DW 0XQJR %UXVK

DIRT RIDING

$OO DURXQG %XODKGHODK LQ 0\DOO 5LYHU %XODKGHODK DQG :DQJ :DXN 6WDWH )RUHVWV WKHUH DUH IRUHVWU\ DQG RWKHU WUDFNV ZKLFK YDU\ LQ GLIĂ€ FXOW\ but are all fun to ride. If you’re on a road bike and it’s been raining LW¡V SUREDEO\ DQ LGHD WR OHDYH PRVW of these tracks to dirt bikes; just remember your limitations. You can H[SORUH D ORW RI WKLV QHWZRUN EXW GRQ¡W JHW LQ RYHU \RXU KHDG /LWHUDOO\ DQG Ă€ JXUDWLYHO\ KD KD 7KHVH URDGV DQG WUDFNV JR DOO WKH ZD\ XS WR Gloucester if you like. As always in forestry areas, beware log trucks!

BACK IN TOWN

gums and other old growth forest make this worth seeing if you’re a greenie.

THE GRANDIS

Tallest known tree in NSW, this à RRGHG JXP LWV W\SH QRW D GHVFULSWLRQ WRZHUV PHWUHV RYHU the forest between the Wootton Way and the freeway. It can be UHDFKHG IURP HLWKHU E\ ZD\ RI JUDYHO roads with reasonable surface. The access road from the Lakes Way SDVVHV XQGHU WKH IUHHZD\ LQ D ELJ arched tunnel that makes a good SKRWRJUDSK\ EDFNGURS )URP WKH other side the turnoff is marked on the eastern side of the Wootton Way, quite close to the southern end. The *UDQGLV KDV D SLFQLF DUHD WRLOHWV DQG D YLHZLQJ SODWIRUP VR \RXU ERRWV don’t destroy the tiny roots it relies on for water.

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%XODKGHODK LV D FRPSDFW SODFH ZLWK PRVW RI WKH VHUYLFHV \RX¡OO need on Stroud Street. I won’t list DOO RI WKH FDIpV EHFDXVH , GRQ¡W really know how they differ, but I UHFRPPHQG WKH SXE WKH 3ORXJK MYALL SHORES 5LJKW RQ WKH WLS RI %RPEDK 3RLQW DV D SODFH WR VWD\ 7KH\ DOVR KDYH and stretching back to the west OXQFK DQG GLQQHU VHYHQ GD\V SUHWW\ LV WKLV KROLGD\ SDUN ZLWK FDELQV PXFK WKH XVXDO SXE IRRG EXW ORWV FDPSLQJ DQG VR RQ 7KHUH¡V D FDIp RI LW DQG D SOHDVDQW HQYLURQPHQW DQG VKRS 7KH ORFDWLRQ LV TXLWH RYHUORRNLQJ WKH ULYHU WR HDW LW beautiful. You can rent canoes and 5RRPV DUH SODLQ EXW FKHDS DQG ND\DNV FDOO IRU UHQWDOV DQG WKH\¡OO OHW \RX SDUN \RXU ELNH LQ D WKH SDUN LWVHOI ORFNHG XS FDUSRUW EHKLQG WKH SXE &DOO 7KHUH LV D SKDUPDF\ and a bakery just down the road. BOMBAH POINT ECO COTTAGES 1RW IDU IURP WKH KROLGD\ SDUN 2Q WKH FRUQHU RI %XODKGHODK :D\ WKH (FR &RWWDJHV SURYLGH D PRUH and Crawford Street is the Visitor VSHFLĂ€ FDOO\ HFRORJLFDO H[SHULHQFH ,QIRUPDWLRQ &HQWUH RU 3KRQH IRU LQIRUPDWLRQ www.bulahdelah.net.au , which in and bookings. P\ H[SHULHQFH LV XVHIXO DQG KHOSIXO 7KHUH LV IXHO LQ WZR VHUYRV XS RQ WKH %XODKGHODK :D\ DQG WKH QXPEHU BOMBAH POINT FERRY 'HSDUWLQJ HYHU\ KDOI KRXU EHWZHHQ RI WKH FDUDYDQ SDUN LV DP DQG SP WKH IHUU\ On the web, see www.greatlakes.org. connects the Myall Shores holiday DX RU GURS DQ HQTXLU\ WR WRXULVP# SDUN ZLWK WKH URDG WKDW UXQV DURXQG JUHDWODNHV QVZ JRY DX

1(: =($/$1' /,9( 7+( '5($0 5,'( 1(: =($/$1' /,9( 7+( '5($0 5,'( 1(: =($/$1' /,9( 7+( '5($0 5,'( 1(: =($/$1'

Start your ride from Christchurch, New Zealand, Gateway to the Glorious Southern Alps ‡0RWRUF\FOH 5HQWDO ‡*URXS DQG &OXE 7RXUV ‡)XOO\ JXLGHG 7RXUV ‡,QGHSHQGHQW *36 7RXUV

outh Contact S \FOH RWRUF 3DFLÀF 0 D\ IRU 7RXUV WRG eals er d some sup UV PEHU 7RX H F H ' U X RQ R

rbiketours.co.nz ´<RX GRQ·W QHHG WR JR RII URDG WR KDYH D JUHDW DGYHQWXUH KLUH DQ LPPDFXODWH 6RXWK 3DFLÀF 7ULXPSK +DUOH\ +RQGD 6X]XNL RU %0: DQG OLYH \RXU GUHDP µ

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T YR EL AU N C H

Drive it in hard on the front brake with loads of grip and grind that rear brake lever, Stuart!

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PIRELLI DIABLO ROSSO III HOTTER THAN THE DEVIL HIMSELF

WORDS STUART PHOTOS PIRELLI

T

he Pirelli Diablo Rosso II has been a hugely successful tyre for the brand over the past few years, but the release of the new Diablo Rosso III looks to make this success even greater with more grip, longevity, feedback and wet performance. I headed to Sepang to give the tyres a good workout and to enjoy the World Superbike round with Pirelli – the RIÀFLDO W\UH VXSSOLHU The new Diablo Rosso III has moved up from being a ‘Road Sport’ classed tyre to an even sportier version that can also handle some track work – an all-round sports tyre if you’d like to call it that.

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47

TYRELAUNCH

The designers of the Diablo Rosso III targeted riders of sportsbikes and powerful naked bikes who ride up to 15,000km a year, use their bikes for all occasions - for bike rallies, track days and trips away. The tyre is even designed for those who use their bike in crappy weather - damp, cold and wet roads, rain and so on. Making an even sportier tyre suitable for this wide range of conditions is all down to technology - a high energy structure and special compounds. If we start with the carcass of the tyre, its stiffness has been increased for a more consistent feel. The cord used is tighter in the front tyre versus the rear to help give a larger contact patch on the roadway. The compound used in the front tyre is 100% Silica, whereas the rear uses a 70% Silica and Carbon Black mix. This gives the front and rear combination a consistent mileage range and performance throughout their life. You’ll also notice a new, aggressively styled tread pattern. The grooves all combine to give fast warm up, grip in all conditions and consistent performance over a long period. I keep saying ‘consistent’ and this is a big thing with tyres. If you have a tyre that “goes-off ” when it gets hot, or doesn’t warm-up fast

48

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to give you grip, your safety, or enjoyment of your motorcycle will be reduced. With the Diablo Rosso III, consistency across the range of conditions you might want to subject it to helps make your riding safer and of course much more fun! To add to the fun factor, lean angles wit the Diablo Rosso III have been increased from 45 deg to 52 de 7KH SURÀ OH RI WKH tyre has been changed (+2.5% higher) to giv the increased lean angle but also to give a wider footprint on the ground at all lean angles. During the launch I enough to have a chat with the three “product testers” who actually put the tyre through its paces during design and pre-production. They told me about the way you can push this tyre quite hard in adverse conditions and I certainly found that RXW GXULQJ WKH À UVW VHVVLRQ on the track, which was wet/half-dry from an overnight storm. I rode an Aprilia Tuono in WKLV À UVW VHVVLRQ DQG I was quite surprised at just how hard I could push it. Turn in was light and precise and rear grip was good. For my second session I jumped onto a Ducati Hyperstrada which was a bit overwhelmed on the track. I ground both the rear brake lever and gear lever pretty much off, followed by a lot of the footpegs. I guess you could put this

down to the excellent lean angles and grip you can achieve with the Diablo Rosso III. By the third session the track had dried out and I grabbed a BMW S 1000 RR, so did a number of exracers attending the launch. I was quite chuffed to say I only had an ex-500GP rider a couple of seconds ahead of me and a bunch of ex-Suzuka 8hr racers behind me! Despite overwhelming the front ABS on the BMW in Race mode, the feel from the Diablo Rosso III allowed me to not run wide, just crank it over and get on with turning fast laps. The rear did get a little squirrelly in the last couple of laps, but I’d more

put that down to my size with the rear shock being under-sprung. )RU WKH IRXUWK DQG ÀQDO VHVVLRQ , grabbed a Kawasaki ZX-10R, in this FDVH D PRGHO 3LUHOOL ZDQWHG WR VKRZFDVH WKH 'LDEOR 5RVVR ,,, DV EHLQJ QRW RQO\ IRU WKH ODWHVW DQG JUHDWHVW EXW DOVR D W\UH WKDW ZRUNV ZHOO DQG LPSURYHV ROGHU PRGHOV 8QIRUWXQDWHO\ , ERLOHG WKH IURQW EUDNH ÁXLG RQ P\ WKLUG ODS DQG FRPLQJ LQWR turn four at Sepang, which is a high speed entry (about 230km/h) and EDVLFDOO\ D VORZ nd gear right-hander, WKH IURQW EUDNHV GHFLGHG WR IDLO $ ELW RI D SXFNHU PRPHQW EXW , SXOOHG LW XS MXVW LQWR WKH JUDYHO WUDS ZLWK WKH UHDU

EUDNH DQG EDQJLQJ LW GRZQ WR ÀUVW , JRW JRLQJ DJDLQ RXW RI WKH GHHS JUDYHO trap, coming back into the pits straight DZD\ 8S XQWLO WKLV SRLQW ,·G HQMR\HG ULGLQJ WKH HDUO\ PRGHO =; 5 7KHVH ZHUH UHQRZQHG IRU EHLQJ DQLPDOV WR ULGH DQG , ORYHG WKH LQVDQH SRZHU GHOLYHU\ RQ WKH H[LW RI FRUQHUV , FRXOG DOVR KROG D YHU\ KLJK FRUQHU VSHHG ZLWK WKH =; 5 IHHOLQJ PRUH OLNH LW ZDV RQ VOLFNV WKDQ D URDG W\UH ² JUHDW MRE 3LUHOOL $IWHU DOO WKH VHVVLRQV , ZDV VXUSULVHG WKDW QRQH RI WKH W\UHV KDG EDOOHG XS DV \RX ZRXOG H[SHFW 7KH FRPSRXQGV KDYH UHVXOWHG LQ H[FHOOHQW ZHDU , FDQ RQO\ LPDJLQH WKDW RQ WKH URDG WKH

Hard to see it, but the track is wet and slippery.

ORQJHYLW\ RI WKH 'LDEOR 5RVVR ,,, ZLOO EH VRPHZKHUH DURXQG NP :H·OO JUDE D VHW RI WKH 'LDEOR 5RVVR ,,,·V WR ÀW WR RXU ORQJ WHUP <DPDKD 07 WR VHH KRZ WKH\ KDQGOH GD\ WR GD\ OLIH +DYLQJ ULGGHQ IRXU GLIIHUHQW ELNHV LQ D YDULHW\ RI FRQGLWLRQV , FDQ VD\ ,·YH FRPH DZD\ YHU\ LPSUHVVHG ZLWK WKH QHZ 3LUHOOL 'LDEOR 5RVVR ,,, ,W VXUSDVVHV WKH 'LDEOR 5RVVR ,, PDNLQJ WKH ,, IHHO PRUH OLNH D VSRUW WRXULQJ W\UH WKDQ D VSRUWV W\UH *UDE D VHW \RX·OO ORYH ¶HP

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49

TEAR OUTMAP#42

LIMESTONE BAZZA!

TAKE THE PICTURESQUE DIRT ROUTE

A

dventure is back for this issue and what a picturesque route we’ve got for you! Total distance – 180km Time – Around 4-5 hours (allowing for sightseeing along the way) Road conditions - Snowy River Shire Depot Reception on 02 6451 1000 This is a particularly easy route to navigate, although just after the snow season the dirt can get a little slippery in spots. However the main purpose of riding this particular piece of dirt country is the scenery – it is simply stunning. For this ride you could base yourself in either Benambra in Victoria, or Jindabyne in NSW, but we started in Benambra (after coming from Omeo) and made our way over to Jindabyne.

BENAMBRA

Benambra town centre is at the intersection of Gibbo Street and Limestone Road, at an altitude of some

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700m. The town has a population of around 150, although most residents live on farms and properties out of the actual town. From its early days Benambra has been regarded as a premier agricultural area, specialising in both sheep and cattle farming. The timber industry employs a small number of people in harvesting, handling and transportation of the logs to mills in other areas. Mining was RQFH DOVR D VLJQLÀ FDQW HPSOR\HU LQ WKH area, but only occasional forays are currently conducted. For the tourist, the area offers beautiful mountain scenery, crystal FOHDU WURXW ÀVKLQJ VWUHDPV DQG DQ assortment of picturesque bush walking trails, including those of the Alpine National Park. The town of Benambra is also on the shores of Lake Omeo which can also serve as a tourist attraction, however this lake only irregularly holds water at present. During wetter times a pier and public toilets were built at the top end

of the lake furthest from the town where the lake is at its maximum depth. The depth varies when full from about 3m at the top end to about 1m at the town end, where the ODNH ZLOO Ă RRG DFURVV WKH VHDOHG URDG The Benambra Store (03 5159 9209) offers a range of supplies and services including fuel (normal unleaded only when I passed through), however please note the opening/closing times: Store Opening Hours: Mon - Thurs 7.30am to 6pm Friday 7.30am to 8.30pm Saturday 8am to 4pm Sunday 9am to 4pm Public Hols 9am to 4pm

SUGGAN BUGGAN

Suggan Buggan lies on the edge of the Snowy Mountains. This is wild lonely country which can be bitterly cold in winter. The town’s name came from the Aboriginal expression ‘bukkan bukkan’ which was a term

used to describe “bags made from grass�. Not “bags made for grass.� THINGS TO SEE: Suggan Buggan Schoolhouse In 1865 Edward O’Rourke constructed the old school house which still stands today. The smaller of the two rooms was for a tutor named Ballantyne who was hired to teach O’Rourke’s thirteen children. A man named Tom Dillon, who worked for the family, is buried in a grave at the top of the hill near the school house. He was a ticket-of-leave man; a convict who was granted freedom of lodging and occupation within a given district until the end of his sentence. Snowy River National Park To the east is the Snowy River National Park. At its southern tip is the picnic area on Moresford Track where a short walking trail leads to an impressive view of Raymond Falls. Further north, on Varney’s Track, is Hicks Property which is ideal for camping although it lacks any facilities. A dirt track leads to Jackson’s Crossing on the Snowy River and the lower reaches of Rodger River are also there to be investigated. South of Wulgulmerang is a road which will take you along a signposted route to within walking distance of a spectacular lookout over

Little River Gorge, one of the deepest in the state. Two kilometres west is a short walking track that leads to the Little River Falls. Further east is the McKillops Bridge area, on the banks of the Snowy River, which is an ideal locale for swimming and relaxing in summertime. Wild horses live in the park and can sometimes be seen.

INGEBYRA

Mostly just a landmark for this trip, but if you wanted to stay somewhere and get your “Snowy Mountain Man� on, you can stay at Old Ingebyra Homestead and go horse riding just like The Man from Snowy River. Or you could try to replicate his feat on your bike. No? Visit: www.snowyriverhorsebackadventure. com.au

WALLACE CRAIGIE LOOKOUT

$ WHUULÀ F SODFH WR EUHDN XS \RXU ULGH This vantage point over the most southern precinct of the National Park offers superb views along the river, and vistas of rugged ranges that are constantly changing throughout the shifting light of day. In winter, you may even see snow fall on the summits. %ULQJ D SDFNHG OXQFK DQG À QG D picnic table beneath the trees. This spot is popular with photographers, so don’t forget to bring your camera

for some spectacular shots. Some onsite interpretative material will help you understand what you’re seeing. Wallace Craigie lookout is good to visit at any time of year, though the best time for birdwatching is summer, when a variety of local species circle overhead.

JINDABYNE

Located on the road to Kosciuszko National Park and perched on the edge of a meandering lake, Jindabyne and its surrounding towns in the Snowy Mountains make a great base for exploring the region. This is a town that has just about all necessities and all the fuel you’ll need. Local towns Berridale, Adaminaby and Dalgety offer plenty of things to see and do, as well as ample restaurant and accommodation options to suit visitors of all ages, lifestyles and budgets. They’re also great places to hire everything you need for the snow from fashion to equipment. ,Q ZLQWHU WKH ORFDO VQRZÀ HOGV within Kosciuszko National Park- Thredbo, Perisher Valley, &KDUORWWH 3DVV DQG 6HOZ\Q 6QRZÀ HOGV become busy. In summer, check out other options that include abseiling, rock-climbing, PRXQWDLQ ELNLQJ KRUVH ULGLQJ DQG à \ À VKLQJ WRXUV \RX FDQ WDNH OHVVRQV

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LAUNCH

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"FOR THE AUSTRALIAN LAUNCH WE SET OFF FROM THE CENTRE OF CANBERRA, RIDING PAST THE POLLIES GIVING THEM THE BIRD AND THEN SETTING OFF FOR THE HILLS TO GIVE THE QUITE WIDE FOOTPEGS A WORKOUT"

HARLEYDAVIDSON XL1200CX ROADSTER TIME TO GET SPORTY, CRUISER

WORDS STUART PHOTOS ADAM MCGRATH

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LAUNCH

H

arley-Davidson has roots in dirt track racing going back many years, DQG WKH 0RWRU &RPSDQ\ KDV Ă LUWHG with a number of models over the years which have tried to take on a sporty nature. The XR1200 could really have taken H-D into the sports world if they had pushed the design further. Now, H-D has released the Roadster; intended to be a sportier cruiser for those who want a bit of a mix of essentially cruiser, yet with decent handling and braking power. That’s what the Roadster offers. For the Australian launch we set off from the centre of Canberra, riding past the pollies giving them the bird and then setting off for the hills to give the quite wide footpegs a workout. Powering the Roadster is the 1200cc rubber mounted Evolution engine, which performs just nicely for its size. But the two main changes to this model that allow it to handle better, far and above any other H-D Sportster, are the premium emulsion technology rear shocks with screw-style preload adjustment, and the 43mm inverted front forks with premium cartridge dampening technology and a special triple clamp design. To complete this package the steering geometry has been UHYLVHG IRU IDVWHU WXUQ LQ $QG Ă€QDOO\ to assist with fast turn in and overall handling, a set of lightweight, offsetsplit 5-spoke cast aluminium wheels have been added. I quite like their offbeat look, yet from a distance they look just like a normal set of 10-spoked wheels. Handling is just as H-D had intended. The Roadster can be ridden with gusto but you’ll need to remove the “hero-blobsâ€? and then wear down the footpegs to get to the point where they no longer touch down so easily. A day of spirited riding through your favourite VHFWLRQ RI URDG ZLOO Ă€[ WKLV XS To stop all this fun, the single disc front of a ‘normal’ Sportster just wasn’t

Stuart is wearing a Shoei J.O open face, Ugly Fish sunnies, Segura Retro jacket, Ixon HP Pro 2 Contest gloves, Draggin Next Gen jeans and Sidi Way Mega Rain boots.

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SPECS

HARLEY-DAVIDSON XL1200CX ROADSTER

JRLQJ WR FXW LW VR + ' Ă€ WWHG WZLQ discs up front and they allow excellent braking power for all us sporty riders out there. Add in ABS front and rear and this is a very safe package to have at your disposal. The riding position has also been given a more ‘sporty’ feel, with a lower handlebar and a special sculpted seat to help lock you into the bike at speed. For individual styling, the Roadster has been given a chopped rear fender for a tidier/custom look and the timing cover LV Ă€ QQHG 7KHUH DUH D QXPEHU RI FRORXUV available but the Velocity Red Sunglo got the most attention. Customising the Roadster is easy with a

Of course we can’t show you the shot of Stuart giving the pollies ‘the bird’.

truck load of genuine H-D accessories available. You can change the whole look of the bike just by changing to the CafÊ solo seat, blacked out Screamin’ (DJOH 6WUHHW &DQQRQ PXIà HUV DQG WKH Screamin’ Eagle heavy breather air cleaner, which is a great start to making it yours. If you want a cruiser that has some sporty capabilities, yet has style that only a Harley-Davidson can give, then check out the Roadster and towel up some more fancied machines through the twisties.

PRICE: $19,495 (ride away) WARRANTY: Two years, unlimited distance SERVICING INTERVALS: Every 8000km or 12 months ENGINE: Air-cooled V-twin cylinder, 4-stroke, 2 overhead valves per cylinder BORE x STROKE: 88.9 x 96.8mm DISPLACEMENT: 1202cc COMPRESSION: 10.0:1 POWER: N/A TORQUE: 98Nm @ 3750rpm TRANSMISSION: 5-speed, wet PXOWL SODWH FOXWFK EHOW À QDO GULYH SUSPENSION: Front, 43mm inverted fork, non-adjustable, travel 114mm. Rear, dual-shock, adjustable preload, travel 81mm. DIMENSIONS: Seat height 785mm, weight 259kg (wet), fuel capacity 12.5 litres, wheelbase 1505mm TYRES: Front, 120/70/R19. Rear, 150/70/R18 FRAME:Tubular steel BRAKES: Front, twin 300mm discs with dual-piston ABS calipers. Rear, 260mm disc, dual-piston ABS caliper. FUEL CONSUMPTION: N/A THEORETICAL RANGE: N/A COLOURS:Vivid Black, Black Denim, Velocity Red Sunglo, Billet Silver/Vivid Black VERDICT: GET SPORTY

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PUBOFTHEM ONTH

MURDER AND MAYHEM! OH, AND A PRETTY GOOD PUB WORDS/PHOTOS COLIN WHELAN

S

o anyway whenever I head out searching for a memorable adventure with a great pub and some colourful locals, I always have one over-riding thought: Will this be an experience that sticks, or will it be a succession of empty promises? And as I headed out to Tottenham, the town closest to the geographical centre of NSW, on the trail of a couple of killers, I realised nothing could’ve been more appropriate than wondering:

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Is this going to be a classic week or am I just chasing pie in the sky? It’s around 550km from Sydney via Mudgee, Narromine and Albert to Tottenham and in that there’s some GDPQ ÀQH ULGLQJ SOXV D IHZ UHDOO\ decent stops. I overnight camp at Lake Windemere out from Rylestone on the way out and get to Tottenham just on 3 in the arvo, plonk the Triumph XC beside the splendid pub and take a walk around the CBD. It ain’t huge and I’m just taking in the

town but I’m also looking for traces of the two old Wobbly blokes who brought my wobbly knees to this old mining town. 'RZQ WR WKH SRVW RIÀFH WKHQ DFURVV WR the old servo and the police station next door, then back up to park, across to the mini mart. As I’m about to head to the café which shares the main corner, I stand back and wait for the WUDIÀF WR FOHDU 7KLV HQWLUH WUDIÀF FRQVLVWV RI -XQH RQ her electric buggy zooming diagonally

RATED 3 OUT OF 5 HELMETS

Tottenham Hotel, Umang Street Tottenham NSW 2873 T: 02 6892 4211

across and headed for the community notice board. T notice board sits between t town’s café and a closed old whose front window is dom old photo of a bloke sitting his wattle and daub hut. On a clear autumn arvo, J shoot the breeze for a bit a about the murder. A hundred years ago two the International Workers o (known as, ‘Wobblies’) wer

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P UBOF THE MONTH

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Tune in There are some seriously good clips of folks singing Preacher and the Slave on YouTube. For me the standouts are by the one by Chris Buhalis and Joe Glazer. But the actual song, “Joe Hillâ€? is also chilling. Best versions are by Paul Robeson, Bruce Springsteen and Pete Seeger But if you’re interested in this stuff, search for ‘Preacher Slave Harry McClintock’ for a performance by the Ă€UVW SHUVRQ WR UHFRUG WKH VRQJ appropriately in Portland Oregon, home to the original ‘Skid Row’. I have links to all these on my online version of this article at: www.motorbikenation.com $QG D Ă€QDO SRLQW WKDW ULGHUV ZLOO appreciate, especially those who have followed Campbell Newman’s VLAD laws, (Otherwise known as: Criminal Law (Criminal Organisations Disruption) Amendment Act 2013) PM Billy Hughes despised the IWW and in 1916, seeking to kill them off, his government brought forth the Unlawful Associations Act whose third clause declared: The following are hereby declared to be unlawful associations, namely:(a) The association known as the Industrial Workers of the World The more things change the more they stay the same!

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Roland Kennedy arrest warrant.

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+LOO ZDV QRWKLQJ LI QRW LQYHQWLYH DQG VR KH XVHG WKH WXQHV RI WKH 6WDUYDWLRQ $UP\ DV WKH EDVLV IRU KLV VRQJV DQG HIIHFWLYHO\ XVHG WKHLU EDQGV DV EDFNLQJ DUWLVWV +LV PRVW IDPRXV VRQJ ZDV 7KH 3UHDFKHU DQG WKH 6ODYH D UHZRUGLQJ RI WKH 6DOYRV¡ ´,Q WKH 6ZHHW %\ DQG %\Âľ DQG D GLUHFW DWWDFN RQ WKH HPSW\ SURPLVHV RI %LOO %RRWK¡V PRE $QG KHUH¡V VRPHWKLQJ H[WUD WR FKHZ RYHU DV \RX¡UH HQMR\LQJ D KRW SLH DW &RZDQ RQ WKH 2OG 3DF RU PD\EH DQ DSSOH RQH DW %LOSLQ ,Q ZULWLQJ WKH VDUFDVWLF ELWWHU FKRUXV WKLV PLOLWDQW LPPLJUDQW EHFDPH WKH Ă€UVW SHUVRQ WR XVH WKH SKUDVH ´SLH LQ WKH VN\¡ DQG KHQFH WKH DSSURSULDWHQHVV RI P\ OHDYLQJ 6\GQH\ PXVLQJV You will eat, bye and bye In that glorious land above the sky Work and pray, live on hay You’ll get pie in the sky when you die (that’s a lie)

Anyway, June Buggy reckons there’s no monument to this episode in the town and points out Pat’s house a bit down the hill. Pat’s with the local historical society and takes me up to their rooms in the community hall and we go through their great collection. In it’s a photo of Rolly Kennedy with the Tottenham Brass Band. Generations of interested RLO\ À QJHUV KDYH WRXFKHG KLV IDFH QR doubt accompanied by a sound track of, ´WKDW·V KLP µ DQG KDYH UHQGHUHG KLV KHDG almost unrecognisable. I head back up to the pub where Rick the boss is on duty for a quick cleanser. He bought the place in 1979 after a (yep you guessed it) motorcycle prang meant he could no longer work. There’s Tooheys and XXXX Gold on tap plus a decent range of stubbies. Wine comes in those small glass and a half bottles. There’s no restaurant as such but Rick’s wife Debbie who helps run the joint, cooks dinner when there’s a demand. If you’re headed here with a group, ring ahead! There’s no gambling or pool table in the bar. This is a talking place! I head upstairs and to check in to a forty buck balcony room. Two sharing will set you back sixty. Like ten of the other dozen rooms this is a twin with two singles and the door opens straight out onto the ‘randah. (the RWKHU KDYH D GRXEOH EHG

$OO URRPV KDYH DLU FRQ EXW QR KHDWLQJ DQG HYHU\ EHG KDV DQ HOHFWULF EODQNHW <RX·OO À QG DOO WKH PDNLQJV IRU D EUHZ in the common room plus cereal and WRDVW KRQH\ MDP DQG YHJHPLWH 7KH fridge has a freezer to take all camelbak bladders. Comfortable! , PRYH WKH ELNH DURXQG LQWR RQH RI the three woodsheds at the end of the PDVVLYH EHHU JDUGHQ LI RQO\ WR VDYH myself dragging all the unlockable crap off it and upstairs. , OHDYH P\ MDFNHW DQG KHOPHW DQG RWKHU sundry detritus on bar and head out for a chat with Richard, a few doors the street. He’s the grandson of the bloke

Joe Hill gunshot wounds / Ricky at Tottenham Hotel

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P UBOF THE MONTH

in the shop front picture in front of the wattle and daub house. He explains how this fella, his dad’s dad had arrived in Tottenham on his bicycle in 1906 and decided to make it his home. Richard has those outback eyes that À[ RQ \RX WU\LQJ WR IRFXV WKURXJK \RXU UHWLQDV DQG LQWR \RXU VRXO ZRQGHULQJ LI \RX FDQ EH WUXVWHG 6L]LQJ \RX XS

Found one, but not the other Fearing demonstrations by the IWW, the NSW government forbad Kennedy or Franz being buried in Sydney and condemned them to unmarked graves in Bathurst. After leaving Tottenham I headed down there and on a dank drizzling afternoon and wandered through the cemetery.After two hours, in the Catholic section I found what must be the anonymous grave of Roland Kennedy, bereft of any marking or tribute. I stood and tried to imagine the burial a century ago. Despite another hour over in the Church of England sections, I had no VXFFHVV LQ Ă€QGLQJ )UDQN )UDQ]¡V UHVWLQJ SODFH ,¡OO WU\ DJDLQ

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0HDVXULQJ \RXU UHVSRQVHV $QG WKHQ UHOD[LQJ DV WKH\ RSHQ XS WKHLU VHFUHWV their stories, their memories and their open wounds. These are the people who share stories rather than just tell them. For three hours we talk. He tells of KLV IDWKHU EHLQJ FDSWXUHG LQ 6LQJDSRUH DQG EHLQJ VHQW WR &KDQJL RI ZRUNLQJ on the Burma railroad. He tells of how for 2 years no word came from his dad DQG KRZ KLV JUDQGIDWKHU FRQYLQFHG KLV only son had perished, died of a broken KHDUW MXVW VL[ PRQWKV EHIRUH Ă€QDOO\ a letter arrived: a year before the war ended, and his emaciated son returned fatherless to Tottenham. He shows me his father’s secret war diary, pencilled into tiny notebooks and he shows me a photo of his dad in a UXJE\ OHDJXH WHDP LQ 6LQJDSRUH EHIRUH the fall and tells how only 7 returned‌5 of the players died at the hands of the Japs on the Burma Railway and another LQ WKH Ă€QDO EDWWOH IRU 6LQJDSRUH $QG WKHQ DV , DP OHDYLQJ KH KDQGV PH D ZHOO Ă€OOHG IRROVFDS PDQLOOD HQYHORSH EHDULQJ ´2Q +HU 0DMHVW\¡V 6HUYLFH 7KH &RPPDQGHU RI 3ROLFH 7RWWHQKDP 6WDWLRQ 16: Âľ DQG VD\V ´, WKLQN \RX¡OO Ă€QG WKLV VWXII LQWHUHVWLQJ Âľ %DFN DW WKH SXE ,¡YH PLVVHG GLQQHU so Ricky offers to call back Debbie EXW ,¡P JRRG 0\ VWXII ¡V DOO VWLOO RQ WKH EDU LQFOXGLQJ P\ ZDOOHW DQG NH\V DQG , VFKOHS LW DOO XSVWDLUV DQG RQFH RXW RQ WKH ÂśUDQGD , open the envelope.

7RWWHQKDP¡V FRSSHU VKDIWV PLJKW EH FORVHG EXW WKLV LV D JROGPLQH LW FRQWDLQV FRSLHV RI WKH RULJLQDO DUUHVW ZDUUDQWV for the Kennedys and Franz, photos of Herb Kennedy, copies of contemporary QHZV FOLSSLQJV D PDS RI WKH WRZQ DQG it contains copies of the records of LQWHUYLHZ 2K DQG D SKRWR RI WKH FRS shop with the window hole made by the EXOOHWV ,W WDNHV D ZKLOH WR VXFN LW DOO LQ ,Q WKH PRUQLQJ , Ă€QG WKH EDWKURRPV are well kept and the hot water seems HQGOHVV ZLWK JUHDW SUHVVXUH , PDNH D brew and enjoy it on the ‘randa, my back WR WKH FDUHVVLQJ VXQ , JR WKURXJK WKH HQYHORSH DJDLQ DQG , EDVN LQ WKH JHQHURVLW\ RI VSLULW RI people like Richard and think, ´%XJJHU PH FRPLQJ RXW WR WKH EXVK DQG KRSLQJ IRU DPD]LQJ GD\V DLQ¡W MXVW pie in the sky.â€? The Tottenham Hotel rated in the PLGGOH RI WKH WKUHH KHOPHW FDWHJRU\ RQ RXU 0RWRUF\FOH )ULHQGO\ 6FDOH GUDJJHG down by a lack of a full time restaurant and some bar facilities. &RXQWHULQJ WKLV ZDV WKH FOHDQOLQHVV RI the place and the helpfulness of Rick DQG 'HEELH ,W KDV D VWUDQJH ODFN RI atmosphere with its walls empty ‘cept for a couple of old footy photos and seems to portray an attitude of, ‘we don’t have a lot but what we have is yours.’ ,W¡G PDNH D YHU\ GHFHQW EDVH IRU D weekend ride for bikers who’re into RSHQ EDFNURDGV WRXULQJ

IND ICATO R AN D PO SIT ION

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RIDE NEW ZEALAND

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GET ROUTED Ph: (03) 5625 9080 dave@getrouted.com.au

www.getrouted.com.au ABN: 98055447869

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61

TE C HNICAL

SCRAMBLER PLUS WORDS THE BEAR PHOTOS RIZOMA/THE BEAR

G

eorge S. Kaufman, the American critic, after seeing a forest planted by a friend reportedly said “This is what God could have done if He’d had the money.� We are inclined, after seeing our completed Rizoma Scrambler, that “This is what Ducati could have done if they’d had the money.� That’s not a criticism of Ducati. After all, not everybody will want to change their Scrambler the way we have – or at all! And of course the changes cost money. Ducati had to build the bike to a price that you and I could afford. And the current Scrambler is a beautiful piece of work anyway; but leave it to Rizoma, another Italian company, to make it even better looking. Take a look at what we’ve done, and let us know what you think. We suspect that Ducati might have been able to do this – but then we wouldn’t have had the fun of personalising their product.

THE CONCEPT Anybody can bolt accessories onto

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a bike. I’m sure you’ve seen bikes that are carrying just a bit too much bling without telling much of a story. We looked at the impressive Rizoma catalogue and the Scrambler supplement and we could see a very interesting and consistent bike emerging from the available range. The words that came to mind were ‘slick’, ‘smooth’ and ‘slim’; altogether ‘striking’; so welcome to the “5S� Scrambler. The way this project worked out was interesting. A lot of bikes are changed by accessories in small, incremental ways; the total effect is there, but it’s subtle. The BMW GS we equipped with accessories from the same manufacturer a few issues ago is a case in point. There is nothing very subtle about the effect of the changes we made to the Scrambler. Just about every time we replaced something, we found that we had changed the entire look of the bike. Before we could get into the Rizoma catalogue, we needed a few other changes (we have reported on these). Some of them, like the headlight guard and the black tank panels, came straight

CHECK OUT PROJECT “5Sâ€?, THE SCRAMBLER WITH ALL THE EGG out of the Ducati parts catalogue. Some came from our favourite parts suppliers, such as the seat which is from Mustang in the USA and is a lot more comfortable than the original. And VRPH Ă€QDOO\ ZHUH PDGH IRU XV OLNH WKH Ikon shock with its red spring. So, the 5S Concept was built on a solid base. But we weren’t ready for the full effect that the Rizoma parts would have, not just because they were beautiful in their own right, but because they each added something to the bike‌ Let’s take it from the front.

FRONT FENDER ZDM129A Yes, it’s what we call a mudguard. This is made of brushed aluminium and unpainted, and probably made the biggest difference of all the parts

ZH Ă€WWHG 5HPRYLQJ WKH VXEVWDQWLDO DPRXQW RI UHG IURP WKH IURQW ZLWK WKH VWDQGDUG JXDUG DQG LWV LQWHJUDWHG VWD\V KDV ORZHUHG WKH ELNH ² RQO\ YLVXDOO\ EXW VLJQLĂ€FDQWO\ ² DQG PDGH LW ORRN ERWK PRUH FRPSDFW DQG PRUH DJJUHVVLYH 1RW LQ D EDG ZD\ , KDVWHQ WR DGG , GRQ¡W HQWLUHO\ XQGHUVWDQG KRZ VXFK D VLPSOH FKDQJH FRXOG PDNH VXFK D ELJ GLIIHUHQFH EXW WKHUH \RX JR 2QH RI WKH PRVW LQWHUHVWLQJ WKLQJV DERXW FXVWRPLVLQJ LV VHHLQJ WKH XQH[SHFWHG UHVXOWV \RX FDQ JHW $WWUDFWLYH DV WKH VWDQGDUG IURQW JXDUG DQG WKH FDUERQ DOWHUQDWLYH IURP 'XFDWL DUH , ZRXOG QRW JR EDFN WR HLWKHU RI WKHP QRZ WKDW ,¡YH VHHQ WKLV JXDUG

What’s in a name? You might wonder why we have been rattling on about Rizoma so much recently. This is the third story about the company and its products in a row. This came about because of

EDFN DQG WR WKH FHQWUH ZKLFK LV MXVW DERXW WKH RQO\ WKLQJ , GRQ¡W UHDOO\ OLNH DERXW WKLV 5L]RPD JHDU , WKRXJKW WKH RII FHQWUH ELQQDFOH ORRNHG JRRG DQG LQGLYLGXDO $K ZHOO DV WKH\ VD\ \RX¡YH JRW WR WDNH WKH URXJK ZLWK WKH VPRRWK 6R WR VSHDN

arrangements that were made at quite different times. The factory story was a follow-up from the BikeBiz R nineT project we looked at a while back; I visited the factory in Milan in November last year. I made arrangements for the Ducati project at the time, but it took a while to get it all organised and get the parts and the bike together. The opportunity to prepare the R 1200 GS with BikeBiz, meanwhile, came while we were still sorting things out with the Ducati - so ZH VOLSSHG LW LQ ÀUVW At any rate, all three stories can

“URLOâ€? GRIPS GR221B 6PRRWK DQG YHU\ LQGLYLGXDO WKH EODFN RI WKH JULSV LV VHW RII EHDXWLIXOO\ E\ D FKRLFH RI FRORXUHG DQRGLVHG ULQJV ZKLFK FRPH LQ UHG EOXH DQG JROG *ULS LV JRRG \RXU KDQGV ZLOO QRW VOLS RQ WKHVH $QG WKH\ ORRN WHUULĂ€F RQ WKH HQGV RI WKH WDSHUHG EDU

FORK TUBE GUARDS ZDM134B

happily stand on their own, and the fact that they came so close together doesn’t change anything about the way they were done. By the way, if you’re the lucky bugger who buys that R 1200 GS from BikeBiz, get in touch and tell us what you think. The Scrambler is not for sale.

6OLFN DQG D ELW PRUH KDUG HGJHG WKDQ WKH RULJLQDOV WKH )RUN 7XEH *XDUGV FRYHU WKH VDPH DUHD EXW GR LW LQ DQ DQJXODU DQG VKDUSHU ZD\ 7KHLU DSSHDUDQFH JRHV ZHOO ZLWK WKH EUXVKHG DOXPLQLXP JXDUG %\ WKH ZD\ WKH ´$¾ DW WKH HQG RI D SDUW QXPEHU PHDQV ´QDWXUDO PHWDO RU EUXVKHG FKURPHG¾ ZKLOH WKH ´%¾ PHDQV ´EODFN¾

CONICAL HANDLEBAR (WITH RISER KIT) MA006B/AZ203B 7KH ORRN RI WKH ELNH ZDV FU\LQJ RXW IRU D EODFN KDQGOHEDU ´&RQLFDO¾ LV ZKDW ZH PHDQ ZKHQ ZH VD\ ´WDSHUHG¾ DQG WKH EDU KHOSV WR OLJKWHQ WKH ORRN RI WKH ELNH GHVSLWH EHLQJ EODFN 7KH ULVHU NLW DOVR UHORFDWHV WKH LQVWUXPHQW ELQQDFOH

“RRCâ€? BRAKE & CLUTCH LEVERS LBR503B/LCR503B ,V WKHUH VXFK D WKLQJ DV SRHWU\ LQ HQJLQHHULQJ" ,I WKHUH LV WKHVH OHYHUV ZLOO UDQN ULJKW XS WKHUH ZLWK WKH Ă€QHVW KDLNX 7KH\ DUH VSDUH DQG DOPRVW VNHOHWDO EXW YHU\ FRPIRUWDEOH DQG VWURQJ 7KH VPDOO FRORXUHG KLJKOLJKW \RXU FKRLFH RI DQRGLVHG WLQW VHW WKHP RII QLFHO\

“DRIFTâ€? MIRRORS (WITH ADAPTERS) BS400B/BS411B :K\ ´'ULIWÂľ" :KR NQRZV" , VRPHWLPHV WKLQN WKDW FRPLQJ XS ZLWK QDPHV IRU QHZ SURGXFWV PXVW EH RQH RI WKH PRVW GLIĂ€FXOW MREV DURXQG (VSHFLDOO\

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T E C H N I C AL

since it’s easy to make mistakes. Who at Toyota knew when they were coming up with the name of the MR2 that “emmerdeux� apparently means “shitty� in French? These mirrors have a faint blue tinge which makes them look quite special, and both their shape and mechanism are spot on.

VLJQLÀFDQW FKDQJH DIWHU WKH IURQW guard. Not that you can see all that much of it at the best of times, but it tidies up the area behind the forks beautifully and gives the lower front of the bike a solid, strong and integrated look. The circular window adds to the quirky look; it matches the windows in the timing belt cover. The regulator and the horn move to the side with the air box’s installation.

is good-looking, comfortable and effective, but Rizoma has done that with these pegs. The black-and-alloy ÀQLVK ORRNV ULJKW DQG WKH WHHWK DW WKH edges both hold your boots in place and, because they’re a fair way apart, make a comfortable platform for your feet. It’s nice that they are also reminiscent of dirt riding pegs; that ties in with the Scrambler look.

“CAFÉ RACERâ€? FUEL CAP TF124B

“CLUB� AND “CLUB S� TURN SIGNALS (WITH CABLE KIT) FR155B/FR150B/EE079H

COOLER COVERS ZDM125B

Bigger means brighter does not apply to these smart, small and very slick little indicators. While they are tiny in physical size, they are enormous in light output. I wouldn’t be game to say that drivers could not miss them – drivers can miss a Ă€UH HQJLQH LI WKH\¡UH QRW SD\LQJ DWWHQWLRQ – but these indicators will give them less of an excuse. I would happily have something like this on all of my bikes. And of course the small bullet shapes tell their own story.

Oil coolers and radiators often need, and deserve, protection. The Scrambler doesn’t have a radiator, but part of this set does an excellent job of protecting the oil cooler. It is strongly made and integrates well with the left-hand front of the bike. The horn and regulator sit at the bottom, much more neatly than they appear in their standard locations. 7KH RWKHU ÀWWLQJ WKDW FRPHV ZLWK WKLV NLW covers a space on the other side of the bike and tidies that up.

I know that the fashion these days is for old, Le Mans style hinged fuel caps. I like them, too. But for the Scrambler, this à XVK ÀWWLQJ FDS VHHPV PRUH DSSURSULDWH It doesn’t lock, but opens with a keyring attachment that Rizoma supplies. Neat and a bit special.

ENGINE OIL FILLER CAP TP008R

AIR BOX ZDM127B

“TOURING� FOOT PEGS PE622B

This is probably the second-most

It isn’t easy to make something which

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You could wear this little red anodised beauty as a piece of jewellery, but please don’t; it keeps the oil in the Scrambler’s engine. Having it wired up might look like a bit of overkill, but what the hell; if

I do ever decide to race the bike, some of the necessary work is already done‌ Frankly, we have replaced the oil ÀOOHU FDS IRU ORRNV 7KH VPDOO VSODVK RI red breaks up the black of the HQJLQH YHU\ QLFHO\

I know that some people think that off-centre plates are not allowed, but in fact the law only concerns itself with the visibility of the plate, and this RQH PHHWV WKH UHTXLUHPHQWV 7KDW¡V what my engineer says, anyway, and KH¡V WKH H[SHUW 7KH VXSSRUW DOVR XVHV exactly the same mounting points as WKH RULJLQDO RQH

PRUH SDQDFKH 2QFH \RX NQRZ LW H[LVWV \RX¡OO ZDQW LW 7KDW PHDQV QRZ

TIMING BELT COVER ZDM123B You should see the size of the aluminium block they start with when WKH\ PLOO WKHVH WKLQJV 2QFH GRQH WKH\ are lighter than the originals, they have windows and in black they visually tie together the right-hand side of the HQJLQH UDWKHU QLFHO\ ,W¡V DOO SDUW RI WKH RYHUDOO ORRN

CHAIN GUARD ZDM124B 7KH VKDUS ORRN DOPRVW ZURWH ´VKDUS shapeâ€?) of the chain guard suits its ORFDWLRQ SHUIHFWO\ ,Q EODFN LW DOPRVW disappears except for a kind of angular SUHVHQFH FRYHULQJ WKH FKDLQ :KDW GRHV WKDW PHDQ" ,¡P QRW VXUH DQG I wrote it!), but I do like the look of the chain guard, even if it is QRW DW DOO REYLRXV

RIZOMA STICKERS, TANK AND REAR GUARD (PART NUMBERS UNKNOWN) 7KH VWLFNHUV ZHUH QRW UHDOO\ D SDUW RI WKH FRQFHSW EXW WKH EODFN ´U¾ RQ WKH tail looks really good in my opinion, and the sticker on the tank suits the ORRN WRR -XVW DERXW DOO RI WKH SDUWV with the exception of some of the EUDFNHWV DQG WKH VWLFNHUV DUH PLOOHG IURP ELOOHW DOXPLQLXP $OO LQ DOO with the help of Ducati, Mustang , ,NRQ DQG DERYH DOO 5L]RPD ZH KDYH FOHDUO\ PHW RXU 6 3URMHFW WDUJHW 2XU 6FUDPEOHU LV œVOLFN¡ œVPRRWK¡ DQG œVOLP¡ DOWRJHWKHU œVWULNLQJ¡ /RRN IRU PH RQ WKH URDG ,¡OO EH KDSS\ WR WDON WR \RX DERXW LW

Credits $OO RI WKH Ă€WWLQJ ZDV GRQH E\ 6WXDUW DQG KH VD\V WKDW \RX¡G QHHG D PRGHUDWH DPRXQW RI PHFKDQLFDO VNLOO LQ RWKHU ZRUGV VLJQLĂ€FDQWO\ PRUH WKDQ , KDYH WR GR WKH MRE ,¡G VXJJHVW \RX JR WR VRPHRQH OLNH %LNH%L] DW 3DUUDPDWWD 5RDG *UDQYLOOH 16: IRU

REAR BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER (WITH BRACKET) CT115B/CT455B While the new master cylinder might look small and delicate, it is in fact mounted securely and out of the ZD\ RI SRWHQWLDO GDPDJH ,W¡V VPDOOHU DQG PRUH LQ WXQH ZLWK WKH ELNH¡V GHVLJQ WRR

SPROCKET COVER ZDM133B ,W¡V VPDOO LW¡V EODFN LW¡V DOVR OLJKW DQG UDWKHU QLFHO\ VKDSHG 7KH 5L]RPD sprocket cover does much the same job as the original, but it does it with

KHOS 7KH\ VWRFN D ODUJH UDQJH RI 5L]RPD SDUWV DQG WKH ZRUNVKRS EORNHV DUH YHU\ KHOSIXO ,I \RX¡UH QRW LQ RU QHDU 6\GQH\ \RX PLJKW OLNH WR WU\ \RXU ORFDO 'XFDWL VKRS 6HYHUDO RWKHU ELNH VKRSV LQ $XVWUDOLD

“OUTSIDE� LICENSE PLATE SUPPORT PT527B 7KH PDLQ SRLQW RI VLGH PRXQWHG number plates is to tidy up the rear end of the bike, and this one does a JRRG MRE :LWK LWV VPDOO EXW EULJKW OLJKW LW LV DOVR HIIHFWLYH DW QLJKW 2ND\

VWRFN 5L]RPD , VXJJHVW \RX JR WR ZZZ UL]RPD FRP IRU ORFDWLRQV )RU GLUHFW FRQWDFW ZLWK WKH IDFWRU\ LQIR#UL]RPD FRP ZLOO JHW \RX D TXLFN UHVSRQVH

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TRAVEL

WELLINGTON NATIONAL PARK WINTER WONDERLAND

WORDS THE BEAR PHOTOS HARLEY-DAVIDSON

F

unny that the park is named after Arthur Wellesley, the Duke of Wellington. The eponymous dam that is its centrepiece was built to supply water for the mining and railway yards at nearby Collie – and Wellesley detested the railways because “they allow(ed) the damn people to move about too much�. It’s not recorded what he thought of mining. He also detested the people in general, and became a member of White’s Club in London just so he could stand in one of its bow windows when it rained and “watch the damn people getting wet�. Still, he did help the 71 year old Generalfeldmarschall Gebhard

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Leberecht von BlĂźcher, nicknamed “Marshal Forwardsâ€?, to win the battle of Waterloo. Wellington National Park is a beautiful part of the world with PDJQLĂ€FHQW VWDQGV RI MDUUDK PDUUL DQG blackbutt forests. Most people would probably not think of WA as a land of forests, and of course for some 98 per cent of its land area they’d be right. But down in the southwest the place makes up for all the sand and rock, the growing conditions for the big trees are perfect, and the forest is home to a ZLGH YDULHW\ RI Ă RUD DQG IDXQD Wellington in particular is popular all year round, with the spring show of

ZLOGĂ RZHUV PDNLQJ LW D SKRWRJUDSKHUV¡ paradise. But it doesn’t need to be ZLOGĂ RZHU VHDVRQ HYHQ LQ ZLQWHU GHHS in the cool gorge and forests of the Collie River Valley, the river tumbles over granite boulders and forms deep pools worth exploring on foot or in a canoe. You can enjoy the cool crisp days, with the evenings a perfect time WR VLW DURXQG D FDPSĂ€UH ´:KDW FRXOG be better than the smell of dinner FRRNLQJ RYHU WKH Ă€UH"Âľ DVNV RQH RI the WA Department of Parks & Wildlife brochures. The West Aussie authorities are quite accommodating RI Ă€UHV DQG ZLOO HYHQ UHFRPPHQG ZKHUH \RX FDQ JHW Ă€UHZRRG LI LW¡V QRW

DYDLODEOH LQ WKH SDUN &DPSÀUHV DUH XVXDOO\ SHUPLWWHG LQ WKH SURYLGHG ÀUH ULQJV RQO\ EHWZHHQ $SULO DQG 1RYHPEHU EXW ÀUH UHVWULFWLRQV PD\ EH LPSRVHG DW DQ\ WLPH <RX FDQ XVH \RXU RZQ OLTXLG RU JDV IXHO EDUEHTXHV RU VWRYHV DW DQ\ WLPH XQOHVV D WRWDO ÀUH EDQ KDV EHHQ GHFODUHG $V ZHOO ERWK 3RWWHUV *RUJH DERYH WKH GDP DQG +RQH\PRRQ 3RRO EHORZ LW KDYH IUHH JDV EDUEHFXHV DORQJ ZLWK WKHLU SLFQLF WDEOHV DQG WRLOHW IDFLOLWLHV +RQH\PRRQ 3RRO FDPSJURXQG RQ WKH EDQNV RI WKH &ROOLH 5LYHU LQ :HOOLQJWRQ )RUHVW KDV LQGLYLGXDO FDPSJURXQGV IRU WHQWV DQG VPDOO

FDPSHUYDQV )RXU VLWHV DUH VXLWDEOH IRU D VLQJOH VPDOO WHQW WKUHH IRU WZR VPDOO WHQWV HLJKW IRU D ODUJH WHQW DQG ÀYH IRU WZR ODUJH WHQWV (DFK KDV DQ DGMDFHQW VSDFH IRU RQH RU YHKLFOHV ZKLFK ZLOO WDNH D QXPEHU RI ELNHV +RZ PDQ\ LV D QXPEHU" +RZ JRRG DUH \RX DW SDUNLQJ" 6HYHUDO RWKHU SLFQLF DUHDV OLH DORQJ WKH VFHQLF ÀYH NLORPHWUHV RI /HQQDUG 'ULYH ZKLFK IROORZV WKH &ROOLH 5LYHU EHORZ WKH ZDOO RI WKH :HOOLQJWRQ 'DP 7KH\ LQFOXGH WKH 5DSLGV /RQJ 3RRO %LJ 5RFN DQG /LWWOH 5RFN 0RVW RI WKHVH ORFDWLRQV KDYH SLFQLF WDEOHV EXW QR WRLOHW IDFLOLWLHV 0RVW VLWHV KDYH ZRRG EDUEHFXHV 7KH

XQLTXHO\ :HVWHUQ $XVWUDOLDQ VSRUW RI ´PDUURQLQJµ LV DOVR D SDUN DFWLYLW\ 7KH VHDVRQ IRU WKHVH VPDOO EXW WDVW\ FUXVWDFHDQV LV XVXDOO\ LQ -DQXDU\ RU )HEUXDU\ ,QIRUPDWLRQ RQ ÀVKLQJ UHJXODWLRQV DQG EDJ OLPLWV LV DYDLODEOH IURP ZZZ ÀVK ZD JRY DX $QRWKHU UHFRPPHQGHG IHDWXUH RI WKH 1DWLRQDO 3DUN LV WKH ¶.LRVN DW WKH 'DP· FDIp ZKHUH \RX FDQ VLW RYHUORRNLQJ WKH ZDWHU VWRUDJH DQG KDYH PRUQLQJ RU DIWHUQRRQ WHD RU OXQFK ,W·V RSHQ 7KXUVGD\ WR 0RQGD\ DP SP DQG HYHU\ GD\ GXULQJ VFKRRO KROLGD\V (PDLO FRQWDFW# NLRVNDWKHGDP FRP DX 1HDUE\ 3RWWHUV *RUJH LV D ODUJH DQG

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TRAVEL

spacious campground and day use area on the shoreline of Wellington Weir. It is a peaceful and shady spot amidst the jarrah/marri trees right by the water, with views out across the lake. “The name ‘Potters Gorge’ is misleadingâ€? explains a WA booklet ´DV LW LV D Ă DW FOHDULQJ DQG WKHUH DUH QR gorges nearby. The scenery is pleasant and scenic but not spectacular like you’d expect from a gorge. Apparently there was once a gorge nearby, but it was submerged beneath the surface of the lake after the dam was built.â€? Oh. Bummer. Still, it sounds all right, doesn’t it, gorge or no gorge. There are gas barbeques in the `day use` area for the use of all visitors. 3URYLVLRQV LQFOXGLQJ Ă€UHZRRG DQG fuel are available in Collie. You cannot make bookings, so park authorities recommend that you be prepared with an alternative place to stay in case there is no suitable site available. “You will equally enjoy the national park if you prefer wondering (sic) through the forest on sunny winter days or snuggling at night by a cosy log Ă€UH Âľ VD\V :$¡V 3DUNV :LOGOLIH :H¡UH just wondering what happens if you get too FORVH WR WKDW FRV\ Ă€UHÂŤ But both as a stopover on the way between Margaret River and Perth, and as a destination in its own right, Wellington National Park is a top place. Just don’t move about too much, or the ghost of Arthur Wellesley might come and stare at you.

Collie Visitor Centre 156 Throssell Street, Collie WA 6225 Phone: 08 9734 2051 Email: info@collierivervalley.org.au 3DUN 2IĂ€FH 147 Wittenoom Street Collie WA 6225 Phone: 08 9735 1988 Monday to Friday 8.30am to 4.30pm Closed weekends and public holidays https://parks.dpaw.wa.gov.au/park/ wellington#sthash.dDcl6M7z.dpuf

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LAUNCH

INDIAN SCOUT SIXTY

SAME, BUT DIFFERENT – SORT OF

"IN HIS LAMENT HE IS LIKE AN ANIMAL. FOR INSTANCE, THE COYOTE IS SLY, SO IS THE INDIAN." BLACK ELK, OGLALA LAKOTA SIOUX (1863-1950)

I

WORDS STUART PHOTOS JEFF CROW

hadn’t ridden the Indian Scout before, The Bear attended the ODXQFK ZKHQ LW ZDV ÀUVW UHOHDVHG DQG all I’d heard about was the fun engine. So then when I found out about the new Scout Sixty, I was at a loss to understand why Indian would release a less “fun” version of the Scout. It was only when I rode both bikes back to back that I understood… The Scout is basically the company’s take on what a modern 1920s model

Stuart is wearing an Rjays Platinum open face, Ugly Fish sunnies, Segura Retro jacket, Dririder Stealth gloves, Draggin Next Gen jeans and Sidi Vertigo boots.

Indian Scout might look like. The “big” Scout’s 1133cc powerhouse engine is certainly a fun thing to have between your legs, but how does the reduction of 134cc in capacity (to 60 cubic inches, hence the name) affect the Scout Sixty? Essentially, the Scout and Scout Sixty

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LAUNCH

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Try not to smile too hard, Stuart!

are the same motorcycle, sharing frame, suspension and braking components, except for the engine capacity and gearbox. There are also some cosmetic details that separate the two models. The Sixty has a blacked out engine, versus the chrome cam covers of the Scout. The handlebar and the headlight are another distinction between the two models – blacked out on the Sixty for a more understated look. Indian Motorcycle sees the Sixty as D ´Ă€ UVW WLPHUVÂľ LQWURGXFWLRQ WR WKH brand. It’s an urban stylemaster, just with a smoother, linear acceleration band, rather than the intense power of the full blown Scout. And there is the 5-speed gearbox rather than the 6-speed DV Ă€ WWHG WR WKH 6FRXW 7KH GLIIHUHQW ratios tucked away in the gearbox make the Sixty easier to manage in an urban environment for any level of experience. There are a couple of extra differences between both models; the Sixty has a black seat, wheels, frame and swingarm. These are all cosmetic differences designed to set the Sixty apart from the Scout. Handling and manoeuvrability continue to be easy to manage thanks to the low centre of gravity. Combine that with the low 643mm seat, and the Sixty can be managed by riders of any size. Here’s a tip: taller riders might like to move the pegs forward a little. The Scout Sixty is ripe for customising, with many accessories available to FUHDWH D XQLTXH ORRN DQG Ă€ W 6W\OLVK ZLUH ZKHHOV DQG D Ă RDWLQJ VROR VDGGOH create a new silhouette, and plenty of Ă€ W NLW DFFHVVRULHV WDLORU WKH FRQWUROV WR the rider, including seats, handlebars and footpeg relocators, while additional accessories such as saddlebags will allow you to get away from the hustle and bustle to really enjoy the relaxed nature of the Sixty. The Indian Scout Sixty is a relaxed rider’s dream. I reckon you should ride both the Scout and Scout Sixty back-toback as I have done to see which one takes your fancy. If you’re an inner city dweller who maybe occasionally hits the long and winding road, I reckon you’ll go the Sixty.

SPECS

INDIAN SCOUT SIXTY

PRICE: $15,995 (plus on-road charges) WARRANTY:Two years, unlimited distance SERVICING INTERVALS: Every 8000km or 12 months ENGINE: Liquid-cooled V-twin cylinder, 4-stroke, DOHC, 4 valves per cylinder BORE x STROKE: 93 x 74mm DISPLACEMENT: 999cc COMPRESSION: 11.0:1 POWER: 58.2kW TORQUE: 88.8Nm @ 5800rpm TRANSMISSION: 5-speed, wet PXOWL SODWH FOXWFK EHOW ÀQDO GULYH SUSPENSION: Front, 41mm telescopic fork, non-adjustable, travel 120mm. Rear, dual-shock, adjustable preload, travel 76mm. DIMENSIONS: Seat height 643mm, weight 255kg (wet), fuel capacity 12.5 litres, wheelbase 1562mm TYRES: Front, 130/90/16. Rear, 150/80/16 FRAME: Cast aluminium BRAKES: Front, 298mm disc with dual-piston ABS caliper. Rear, 298mm disc, single-piston ABS caliper. FUEL CONSUMPTION: N/A THEORETICAL RANGE: N/A COLOURS:Thunder black, Pearl white, Indian Motorcycle red VERDICT: SIXTY’S A WINNER

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S P E C I A L F E A T U R E TYRES Oi! You want tyres, I’ve got tyres, ol’ chap! / Why are you laughing? I’ll PDNH WKHP ¼ W¨VRPHKRZ

aboard one of these incredibly exciting but staggeringly uncomfortable bikes I described the experience as being like straddling a tractor while someone tries to hammer a rubber bung up your backside. That is still a good description, as long as we remember that the tractor was – and is - a superb motorcycle as well. Fuel lines are made of rubber, too, in some cases; mostly in older bikes. Some do not like ethanol, and although it doesn’t seem as if they’ll melt when in contact with it, they can harden and possibly crack. But back to the round, black things. My most memorable experience with rubber (no sniggering at the back there) came on a trip to Queensland with a mate aboard his R 60 BMW. $W RQH VWDJH ZH À [HG D OHDN LQ WKH IURQW WXEH 7KHQ ZH À [HG LW DJDLQ :H À [HG LW WKUHH WLPHV DOO XS %\ WKH third time, the tube had acquired so much pinch damage that it was useless. The problem, you see, was that it was butyl, not rubber. We had been using standard repair methods – sticky patches – and while they work a treat on rubber tubes, they do not work on EXW\O RQHV :H À QDOO\ GLVFRYHUHG WKDW and bought a new tube, but by then the tyre itself had sustained so much damage that it was useless in turn and we had to buy a new one as well. And a condom would have been no help whatsoever. PT

N

WE ALL NEED THEM AT SOME POINT

ow that The Bear has sort of, “lightened” the mood, or maybe confused you with his introduction I have compiled the latest offerings from the various tyre distributors, which is what this special feature is really about – tyres! SW

A

BRIDGESTONE

RUBBERS somewhat less than reliable colleague of mine once suggested that condoms could be used for emergency petrol transport. I imagine that this is possible (maybe?), but I would just add his warning that they should not be used

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for their original purpose afterwards. But of course there are other things in the motorcycling universe that are made of rubber. A quick trip to the planet “Italy” will reveal its use for the seat of the Moto Guzzi Le Mans Mark ,,, :KHQ , UHWXUQHG IURP P\ À UVW ULGH

www.mcleodaccessories.com.au T30 EVO Created in response to motorcyclists wanting touring tyres that deliver

grip when leaning the bike over. Additionally, the new tread pattern works well in both wet and dry road conditions.

reassuringly consistent and comfortable performance on both wet and dry surfaces yet still offer plenty of fun, the new T30 EVO sport WRXULQJ UDGLDOV UHGHÀ QH ULGLQJ SOHDVXUH and safety. It builds on the acclaimed T30’s quick response and superb stability to deliver more traction and control, particularly on wet surfaces, through the use of new-formula compounds and re-engineered designs.

Bridgestone fuses the MotoGP heritage of the Battlax brand and the highly acclaimed all around excellence of the Battle Wing brand to create tyres that deliver enhanced traction and stability, particularly on wet surfaces, and greater durability. These adventure radials were extensively tested in a myriad of conditions on European roads to ensure sportier, yet safer, performance on all roads, in all weather conditions.

DUNLOP www.monzaimports.com.au

S21 Bridgestone’s aim with the sporty S21 was to develop the world’s best Hypersport radial tyre; provide the highest level of performance, extreme OHDQ DQJOH KLJK FRQĂ€ GHQFH LQVSLUHG cornering with extra-long extended mileage. Upgrade the ‘full spectrum’ of overall usage; dry road plus wet road performance, sure footed braking and high speed stability. Sounds good, huh! A40 For the ever-evolving, new-generation of sophisticated adventure bikes,

AMERICAN ELITE Since 1984, Harley’s have rolled out of the factory with Dunlop tyres. Designed with Harley, for Harley, and crafted in the U.S.A., the new Dunlop American Elite is the recommended tyre for any touring Harley made in 2009 or newer. Multi tread construction places a durable compound in the middle, where we put most of our kilometres on. Side compounds are softer for greater

SPORTMAX Q3 With the new Sportmax Q3 rear W\UH 'XQORS KDV WZHDNHG UHÀ QHG and improved the art to deliver race quality grip and long lasting wear. Showcasing Dunlop’s new Carbon Fibre Technology (CFT), the Q3 features stronger sidewalls and higher temperature tolerances to withstand high horsepower abuse. Almost over engineered for the street, the Sportmax Q3 represents the best technology for the demanding sport rider who also enjoys track days.

ROADSMART III Dunlop’s new GT tyre for grip and performance that’s stronger for longer.

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T Y R E S SPECIAL FEATURE

HEIDENAU www.heidenautyres.com.au

Whether its long haul touring or demanding road-riding - RoadSmart III offers precision handling and stability without compromise. The innovative new tread design and nano technology compound provide maximum grip and performance on both wet and dry roads whilst delivering superior mileage. From heavy large-capacity GT’s to the latest spritely mid-size twins, Dunlop’s RoadSmart III offers it all.

AVON

www.proaccessories.com.au

TRAILRIDER Designed with a new super rich Silica compound using the very latest compounding technology to enhance wet grip, with multi-compound treads on radial rears to enhance mileage and grip, interlocking three dimensional points hidden in the sipes to improve VWDELOLW\ DQG JULS OLPLW WUHDG Ă H[ DQG allow the tyre to warm up quickly and high tech carcass construction and next generation compounds that deliver superb grip and handling. Designed for those adventure touring riders that do 90% on-road, 10% off-road. STORM 3D X-M High performance sport touring plus extended mileage. The X-M version will deliver 15%-20% extra mileage compared to the Storm 2 Ultra, with the X-M featuring interlocking three dimensional points hidden in the sipes

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K79, K69 & K74 – D.O.T APPROVED KNOBBIES

to improve stability and grip, OLPLW WUHDG à H[ DQG DOORZ the tyre to warm up quickly, high performance single and multi-compound super rich silica tread enhances wet grip (SRS), superb handling and stability characteristics and a tri-compound extrusion (TE) on rear W\UHV 7\SLFDO À WPHQW H[DPSOHV DUH Suzuki Hayabusa, BMW K1300GT, Honda VFR 1200, Kawasaki GTR1400 and Suzuki GSX1400, just to name a few.

COBRA Aimed at the power cruiser/ touring/custom market, the Cobra incorporates sports tyre technology for nimble handling, incredible stability and longevity – perfect for touring, extra wide sizes for custom bikes and an excellent durable compound for increased mileage. Also available in a white wall tyre designed for the Thunderbird LT – 150/80R16 front and 180/70R16 rear.

Hit the off-road trails with plenty of grip, and tyres that are D.O.T approved from Heidenau! The K79 is a front tyre built for soft and sandy surfaces. The special knob design allows superior acceleration and stability in the softest of terrain; the K79 is designed to not clog with dirt whilst rotating thus maintaining the most rubber on the ground. The K69 tyre has been specially developed for use on hard, stony ground. Its excellent cornering stability is achieved by the lateral tread blocks and extremely steady carcass. Superior grip and acceleration is possible thanks to the tyre’s outstanding self-cleaning effect. The all-rounder K74 has it all. In combination with a stable carcass, the open pattern provides excellent grip and performance in any situation. The K74 is a D.O.T approved tyre designed for use in all conditions and is road OHJDO ,W¡V DOVR DYDLODEOH LQ Ă€ WPHQWV IRU 17â€? and 18â€? rims. Couple the K74 UHDU ZLWK . IURQW Ă€ WPHQW IRU the best D.O.T approved road legal combination.

K60 SCOUT The K60 Scout is the most unique tyre tread on the market with varying patterns between the sizes. The K60 Scout is manufactured to cater specifically for the needs of each different fitment. Through changes to the tread and carcass the K60 Scout brings better performance on and off road over the K60 Enduro. With the improved tread and compound, the Scout delivers better cornering stability and wet weather grip on the pavement, but like his predecessor delivers off road as well.

SHINKO

“VERGE 2X”. This exciting range sports state of the art steel belted carcass construction and dual compound rubber. This means a harder compound rubber is utilised in the centre of the tyre offering durability for high mileage and softer compound rubber is utilised on the edge or the shoulder of the tyre for optimum grip while cornering… The best of both worlds!

wall the Shinko SR777 tyre offers fantastic value for money for the twin and cruiser rider.

www.shinkotyres.com.au

VERGE 2X Shinko announces their new radial sport touring tyres, dubbed 016

SR777 The Shinko 777 tyre has been specifically designed for cruiser machines and is available in a multitude of sizes to fit many V-Twin and metric cruiser models across all brands from Harley Davidson to Suzuki. Available in both black side and white side

E804/805 BIG BLOCK The 804 (front) / 805(rear) series features an aggressive 40% on road

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T Y R E S SPECIAL FEATURE

and 60% off road pattern for better dirt riding performance, without sacrificing pavement grip. An aggressive tread pattern provides excellent wet and dry adhesion and the compound resists tearing while off road. Made with a four-ply nylon construction.

PIRELLI

SCORPION TRAIL 2 A new path for adventure, this new Pirelli tyre for the latest generation of adventure touring riders sees increased mileage, improved wet grip with an incredible performance consistency throughout its entire lifecycle.

www.linkint.com.au

DIABLO ROSSO III Are you ready for the next level? Yes, well grab a set of the new Diablo Rosso III. Pirelli technology direct from the World Superbike Championship with unprecedented handling for a new generation of sporty behaviour. Bi-compound with wide side soft stripe offering full grip starting from mid-lean angle, large footprint area for improved adherence and optimal grip in all conditions.

ANGEL GT Claimed number one for mileage in sport touring tyres. 100% Italian Gran Turismo, bi-compound for excellent wet performance and grip. Top handling capabilities, typical of the Pirelli DNA with new (A) front and rear versions for heavier bikes, plus new Adventure bike sizes.

www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au

NIGHT DRAGON Cruiser touring tyre that gives you Pirelli performance. Constructed to fit both HarleyDavidson and metric cruiser bikes and to meet the increased engine sizes, torque/power needs of today’s big cruiser motors. Crafted for predictable feel and feedback, mixed with a compound for high mileage and extreme grip at full lean and full throttle.

MICHELIN

www.gasimports.com.au

DIABLO STRADA Economically priced sport touring tyre with a combined front and rear profile designed for a neutral

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response and a functional pattern for performance consistency throughout the tyre’s life.

ANAKEE WILD Anakee Wild offers exceptional

durability and road/off-road resistance thanks to radial technology and optimised tyre thread depth. A proportion of the patterns groove edges are bevelled, forming scoops which facilitate the clearance of mud and grit. As the tyre wears, the amount of rubber in contact with the ground increases, providing added grip, thanks to the angled surface of these scoops.

high speed. A unique longitudinal tread pattern maximizes water evacuation and grip on wet roads and the longevity of the Commander II is even greater over the previous version.

METZELER

www.gmotoimports.com.au POWER SUPERSPORT EVO Enhanced front tyre agility for greater confidence, plus a rear tyre that benefits from the same new Michelin Act construction as that developed for the Michelin Power Cup and Michelin Power Slick tyres. The Supersport EVO is also more manoeuvrable thanks to new compounds and Michelin 2CT and 2CT+ technologies, while also delivering outstanding grip on dry and wet roads. COMMANDER II No compromises on handling and stability along with a new, ground breaking look and premium sidewall treatment. Built with a highly dense, more rigid tyre carcass, which helps deliver excellent feedback and handling, along with Aramid tread plies on the rear tyre that resists centrifugal growth, along with weight savings which provides perfect stability, even at

ROADTEC 01 Roadtec 01 is the latest evolution of Metzeler sport touring tyres which, with respect to its predecessor, the Roadtec Z8 Interact, has among its strong points an improvement of grip on wet and low-grip surfaces, an increase in mileage (+10%) and a high degree of adaptability to different bikes, riding styles and weather conditions.

TOURANCE NEXT The new Tourance Next is specifically designed for the latest generation of enduro street and adventure touring motorcycles. Dual-compound on rear sizes, to combine excellent grip on wet and extended mileage with modern profiles and structures to enhance advanced electronics, ABS, active suspension systems, riding modes and traction control.

SPORTEC M7RR One of the newest members of the Metzeler brand derived from the experience gained in road racing activities, the M7RR is designed to offer high levels of handling and safety, including wet, bumpy and dirty tarmac.

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TE C HNICAL

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RIDE ’EM PHILOSOPHY AND MOTORCYCLE SEATS WORDS THE BEAR PHOTOS MUSTANG SEATS

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here are two ways of looking at the price of something. There’s the cost itself – how many dollars do I need to cough up? And then there’s the value – what am I getting for the money? Over recent years we have been trained by the retail establishment to concern ourselves ZLWK WKH Ă€ UVW ZD\ 7KH VHFRQG KDV EHHQ ignored, in the hope that we will assume that all products are the same. The result is that we buy a lot of crap, really cheap. ,I \RX¡UH KDSS\ ZLWK WKDW Ă€ QH %X\ your kids a dirt bike for $800; they will probably be sick of it and wanting a QHZ ; %R[ E\ WKH WLPH LW GLVLQWHJUDWHV VL[ PRQWKV RU D \HDU DIWHU \RX EX\ LW anyway. A win-win, right? %XW QRW HYHU\ERG\ VHHV OLIH WKDW way. Instead of buying a lot of stuff, necessarily of low quality, these people are more likely to consider their choices carefully and buy less, but high quality. 7KH QHW HIIHFW RQ Ă€ QDQFHV LV WKH VDPH you don’t need to be rich to do this. The effect on life satisfaction can be very different. All right, let’s leave that pinned there for the moment and move on to motorcycles. %LNHV DUH PDGH WR ZKDW WKH LQGXVWU\ calls “price pointsâ€?. For this kind of ELNH IRU H[DPSOH D PDQXIDFWXUHU FDQ H[SHFW WR FKDUJH WKLV PXFK 7KH PRUH respected your brand, the more you can

charge but there is still a limit. Given that you also want a certain SURĂ€ W PDUJLQ IRU \RXUVHOI and your dealers, that sets the amount you can spend to build the bike. And if you use the EHVW DYDLODEOH SDUWV \RX ZLOO HDVLO\ Ă€ QG yourself over that amount. %XPPHU You need to cut costs. And what better place to do that, than where your customers are least likely to notice it? A lot of people never ride bikes as hard as they could be ridden. So, cut costs on suspension. Anybody who rides hard enough to need better suspension can always buy some in the aftermarket and probably would anyway. Ditto for seats. Few riders go out for really long, multiday rides. And if they do, they can buy an AirHawk. %XW LI \RX FDUH DERXW WKH ZD\ \RXU bike looks as well as the comfort it offers – life satisfaction, see above ² WKHQ \RX Ă€ QG \RXUVHOI ORRNLQJ IRU an aftermarket seat. These seats cost money, but if they’re made right they offer comfort, looks and longevity. Value. Take Mustang seats. Here is their own description* of where they came from, and what they do. “After one too many uncomfortable days in the saddle, Mustang’s founder Al Simmons decided there had to be a better alternative to stock motorcycle seats. An engineer by degree and training, Al founded Mustang in 1980. Over the years, Mustang has grown to be a worldwide leader in the design and construction of aftermarket motorcycle seats and accessories for Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki, Kawasaki, Victory, 7ULXPSK ,QGLDQ %0: DQG +DUOH\ Davidson motorcycles. “For over 30 years, Mustang has had an unwavering focus on quality and customer satisfaction. They handcraft the most comfortable seats available for both riders and their passengers, all under one roof in their state-of-the-art facility in Three Rivers, Massachusetts. No one is more dedicated to building a better seat than Mustang. Each Mustang seat or accessory comes with a one-year

The formula Why are aftermarket seats usually better, apart from the price point explanation above? Back to Powersport University’s material from Aftermarket Seats 101. “Mustang subscribes to three pillars of success when it comes to making a better seat: quality, comfort and style. Mustang seats start with a quality baseplate designed and manufactured at their plant in New England.The foam is mixed (using Mustang’s secret formula) and then molded (sic) to ensure all-day comfort. Of course good looks are important, too, so all Mustang seat covers are designed, cut and sewn to match the lines of each particular make and model of motorcycle.The baseplate, foam and cover combine to create the highest quality, most comfortable seat without compromising style.� Makers of good products don’t need to rubbish their competition, and you can see in the quote above that Mustang doesn’t criticise OEM seats. They just explain why theirs are better. See more at www.mustangseats.com, and if you’re in the US you can contact Mustang to arrange a tour of their historic factory only 75 miles west of Boston and 150 miles from New York City.The two hour tours are by reservation only; they can accommodate groups from 2 to 24, and they promise you will ride away with an entirely new awareness of what you put between you and your bike. To schedule a tour time, call 800-243-1392 toll free from North America, 413-668-1100

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T E C H N IC AL

warranty and relentless commitment to customer service.” Of course anybody can make claims. But with Mustang you sense that it’s true – and the pictures they sent me back that up. “Mustang designs, makes the components and builds all of its seats right here in the USA. Every single Mustang seat is made in the United States by true craftsmen who take pride in transforming the highest quality raw PDWHULDOV LQWR D ÀQLVKHG SURGXFW« 7R this day, the brand remains true to its New England roots, ensuring what they build feels and functions as great as it looks.” My uncle Erich was the adopted son of the village blacksmith and when I was growing up I spent a lot of time in the smithy, watching horseshoes being made, farm appliances being repaired and things like hinges being forged. Everything that left that smithy was KDQG PDGH DQG HYHU\WKLQJ UHÁHFWHG the skill of the smith and carried the guarantee of his reputation. I feel a bit like that about Mustang. Well, who knows; maybe I’m over the top with this story. I haven’t even EHHQ WR 7KUHH 5LYHUV DQG WKH 0XVWDQJ factory, although it’s on my to-do list when I’m in the US. But I love this kind of thing, people who care about their product making something that’s special for them, and that will become special for the owner. Let’s face it, there are few things on a bike that we appreciate more than comfort for our backside. And here’s a tip straight from the Bear’s jaws. All of my bikes (with the exception of the Chinese-built Sachs MadAss) have Mustang seats, made in the USA, just as all of them have Australian-made Ikon suspension. I’m not saying that these are the only brands that are good YDOXH 7KDW ZRXOGQ·W EH WUXH 7KHUH DUH others, and your idea of value might well differ from mine, too. Some are cheaper; some are more expensive. And still good value. It’s always your call, as it is mine. *From Powersport University’s introductory course on Mustang Seats. PSU was set up to educate retailers about products s old by Motorsport Aftermarket Group, owners of Mustang.

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Merino Wool Thermalz – Topz and Pantz Trek 3 Reactor Thermal Sleeping Sleeping Bag Bag Liner

Jetboil (gas not included)

Headliners, Balaclava, Nekz

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Get your hands in some two finger

Andy Strapz approved gear is specially selected and tested for quality and motorcycle friendliness.

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Extra Length Sokz Avduro and Expedition Pannierz

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RIDING THE OTTOMAN EMPIRE , IN GUIDED MOTORCYCLE TOURS

TOUR DATE 2016 OCT 02 - 13

IGHLIGHTS

TURKEY ISTANBUL

GREECE

Troy ÇANAKKALE Pergamon

Göreme and Cappadocia

TURKEY

BERGAMA

NEVSEHIR Ürgüp Güzelyurt

KONYA SELÇUK/EFES Ephesus

Aphrodisias Myra MARMARIS Knidos Patara Beach KAŞ Sea Mediterranean

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Göreme Cappadocia Ürgüp Güzelyurt Konya Side Temple of Apollo + Myra

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EVENT

THROTTLE ROLL 2016

BIGGER, BETTER AND A DAMN GOOD TIME WORDS/PHOTOS NICK WOOD

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hrottle Roll, which is now in its third year, has become quite a street party. Popping out from Sydenham train station with my partner Amy, we could hear the bands playing and smell the street stall food being served from various mobile contraptions. The venue is perfect for a motorcycle event of this nature. Railway Parade which is just down the slip road from Sydenham railway station, offers plenty of space and

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a wall which fronts a scaffold that displays an array of chopped up bikes from all makes and models on three levels. The cafĂŠ racer scene has become one of the biggest growing markets to hit the industry and has brought into it a new generation of bikers that see motorcycles as part of a fashion statement, just as the mods and the

URFNHUV GLG EDFN LQ WKH ODWH À IWLHV DQG early sixties. Anyone who has not seen the movie Quadrophenia should do so and will understand the whole feeling

of being part of a sub-culture. The beards, the tattoos and the leather are just another statement but in this time – they call themselves hipsters. Now comes the bikes - just about anything that can be ridden has seen the angle grinder. At times I had to look carefully to identify what the original bike once was. Even dirt bikes were not off the menu to these back street mechanics. Stripping just about everything that can be legally removed and replacing with parts that would have a minimalistic German engineer craving for more. Gaping holes in the chassis that were once there, was…something. The event kicks off with a 105km rumble through the inner west of Sydney. Not sure if all the bikes would have made the whole 105 clicks looking at the size of some of the petrol tanks

but that’s part of the fun I suppose. They are not meant to be practical motorcycles. The venue supports parking for loads of bikes and thankfully Marrickville is still relatively free of parking vultures so the whole area was festooned with weird and wonderful interpretations based on the premise of a motorcycle. I must say that some of the bikes looked like death traps anything above 80km per hour but so what. As the afternoon rolled on into the evening, Amy and I sat down and had the best pizza I’ve ever eaten out of a cargo container. Big thanks to Josh RQ WKH 5R\DO (QÀHOG VWDQG IRU WKH IUHH meal tickets and BTW, Amy loves her new T-shirt. The crowd was friendly and come 4pm the rockabilly dancers started cracking a whip to the sound of bands from another generation. I

really love sub-cultures and the way it PDNHV SHRSOH ÀW LQ ZLWK VRPHWKLQJ DQG this was no exception. I haven’t seen a DA* in many years but there were a few out on display this afternoon. A number of manufacturers turned out their retro styled machinery – Moto Guzzi unveiled the new V9 Roamer and Bobber, Yamaha showcased their recently released XSR DQG DQG 5R\DO (QÀHOG VKRZHG off the new 350, a couple of the 500s and the Conti GT. Everyone was able WR ´JHW D VHOÀHµ VLWWLQJ RQ WKH ELNHV LI they wished, but all-in-all Throttle Roll 2016 was about having a party in the street, celebrating life and custom motorcycles. I can’t wait for next year’s event! * DA is a style of haircut fashioned by the rockers and greasers of the 1950s.

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NEWINTHESHOPS

VERSATILE Ventura – Kawasaki Versys 650 - Price – From $399 (packs), $349 (panniers) Make your Kawasaki Versys 650 even PRUH YHUVDWLOH ZLWK WKH ÀWPHQW RI Ventura bike-packs and the exciting new Bonneville pannier system. A UDQJH RI SDFNV DUH DYDLODEOH DORQJ with the panniers. Check them out at your local bike shop or visit www.kenma.com.au

‘HELD’ THEY DO IT? Held Satu gloves - Price $185 7KRVH H[WUHPHO\ FOHYHU IRON DW +HOG Biker Fashion continue to amaze us. Take this new winter/mid-season JORYH WKH ¶6DWX· 1RW RQO\ LV LW ZDUP DQG ZDWHUSURRI EXW LW KDV WR EH WKH

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lightest-weight/thinnest winter glove on the market. Packed with all the IHDWXUHV \RX ZDQW DQG QHHG YLVLW ZZZ heldaustralia.com.au to purchase.

RAINING BRIGHTLY Held Rano rain jacket and Tempest rain pants - Price $120 (jacket), $100 (pants) A common complaint we get is that PRVW ¶RYHU· UDLQ JHDU LV ZDWHUSURRI IRU PD\EH RQH RU WZR ULGHV EXW QHYHU D ORQJ WHUP SURVSHFW 1RZ ZKDW GR \RX GR WR FRPEDW WKDW" +HOG KDV WKH DQVZHU 1RW RQO\ ZLOO WKH 5DQR MDFNHW DQG 7HPSHVW SDQWV NHHS \RX GU\ WKH\

ZLOO GR VR IRU PDQ\ \HDUV WR FRPH Visit www.heldaustralia.com.au to purchase.

PUTT, PUTT TO VROOM, VROOM! Latest from Delkevic Exhausts /RDGV RI QHZ SURGXFW LV DYDLODEOH IURP 'HONHYLF H[KDXVWV )URP WKH WKRXVDQGV RI H[KDXVWV DOUHDG\ LQ VWRFN WKH\ KDYH DGGHG VOLS RQV IRU WKH %0: ) 5 <DPDKD ;65 ;7 DQG ;7 +RQGD &% 7ULXPSK 6WUHHW 7ULSOH 7LJHU ;& DQG 6SULQW 67 DQG 6X]XNL·V *6; 5 . 1 )XOO V\VWHPV DUH QRZ DYDLODEOH IRU WKH .DZDVDNL .= *7 DQG =HSK\U =5 & DQG +RQGD·V &%) 9LVLW

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GOLDEN DRAGON Kuryakyn Dragon Wings for Honda Gold Wing - Price - $189.99 US The most versatile air management system available for the sometimes hot to ride Honda GL1800 Goldwing and F6B models. Three separate vents per side offer easy adjustability by hand and lock securely into place in four different positions via springloaded mechanisms. Dragon Wings are made from durable injection-molded polycarbonate that’s

VKDWWHU UHVLVWDQW DQG À QLVKHG ZLWK D stylish light smoke tint. Thorough testing performed by Kuryakyn Product Development engineers led WR D ZLGH UDQJH RI YDULDEOH DLUÁ RZ settings that can be dialled in to suit the needs of virtually any rider, regardless of riding conditions. &ORVH WKH YHQWV WR GLUHFW DLUÁ RZ around the fairing and rider in cool weather, or open them up for a refreshing breeze when temperatures soar. Visit www. kuryakyn.com to purchase.

RIGHT TO THE CORE Dainese D-Core Thermal shirt & pants - Price $109.95 (short), $99.95 (pants) The perfect thermal underwear to face even the coldest temperatures, with a range of use from -20°C to 10°C, this shirt and pants from Dainese is made IURP HQYLURQPHQWDOO\ IULHQGO\ À EUH and 100% recyclable. They have an HUJRQRPLF À W ZLWK D VHDPOHVV EXLOG for superior comfort, armor pad for

added comfort on contact areas, active moisture management with loads more comfort features and excellent design. Four sizes are available - XS/SM, MD, LG and XL/2XL, and two colours – Black/Red, Black/Grey. See your local bike shop or visit www.cassons.com.au

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USED &REVIEWED

SHOEI X-SPIRIT III Road n race with this beauty Price - $1149 plus visors. Tear offs $12.95 (pack of 5) Shoei helmets are at the premium end of the helmet spectrum and for good reason. There is no skimping on materials, and the design work that results in both the structure and the artwork on the helmet you buy is outstanding. You can feel that whenever you wear a Shoei. I now have a full set of Shoei helmets for all my riding: cruising, road, adventure and racing, with the latest addition being the all-new X-Spirit III. It’s Shoei’s top

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line helmet, designed for racing, but it can also be used on the road. It’s a helmet for those who DUHQ·W ZLOOLQJ WR VDFULÀFH D single detail when it comes to high-end performance. Hand crafted in Japan, the new X-Spirit III is a super-lightweight, ECE 22.05 approved pure race helm

It really is damn light! My Large size weighs in at only 1400grams. It features an adjustable rotating liner to increase upper vision in a racer’s crouch. I also found that useful because I don’t like a helmet that sits low down near the eyebrows. Add the EQRS (Emergency Quick Release system) and a host of other updates which have been developed in conjunction with Marc Marquez and Bradley Smith, both of MotoGP fame. $HURG\QDPLFV KDYH EHHQ VLJQLĂ€ FDQWO\ improved over the outgoing X-Spirit II. The X-Spirit III is designed for exceptional stability at speeds well over 300km/h! I can attest to the stability as I wore this helmet while at the Pirelli launch at Sepang where I got to around 270km/h and it felt like I was only doing 200! It’s the most stable helmet I’ve worn on a race track, I could stick my head up from behind the screen at the end of the straights and not get blown all over the place. That’s just what you want, and on the road this is the most aerodynamically stable helmet I’ve ever worn, too. The removable and washable 3D Max Dry liner is supremely comfortable, but also very supportive, which is needed if you’re riding at high speeds. The liner can be switched from “roadâ€? to “raceâ€? within a minute. This sees the helmet sit up a little higher on your forehead, for more vision when crouched down. Have a look at Marc Marquez when he’s on the start line for a race and you’ll see near his entire forehead. No, he doesn’t have a massive forehead, it’s the race position of the

X-Spirit III that makes it sit like that for better vision. I also like that there are a number of different sized liners and cheekpads available so that you can JHW WKH DEVROXWH SHUIHFW Ă€ W 6R PXFK VR WKDW ,¡G KDYH WR VD\ WKLV LV WKH Ă€ UVW helmet available to the general riding SRSXODWLRQ WKDW FDQ EH Ă€ WWHG OLNH D custom made racers helmet. 9HQWLODWLRQ DOVR VHHV DQRWKHU Ă€ UVW IRU a motorcycle helmet, you now also get cheek ventilation. Yes, you read it right – cheek ventilation! And not only that, all of the multiple vents on this helmet are designed to work at high speeds (and low). I

7KH &:5 ) Ă DW UDFLQJ YLVRU IRU WKH X-Spirit III is Pinlock ready, and this is included with the helmet and made for extra vision by sitting higher up on the visor. It is also tear-off ready, and you can get those in multiple packs. , Ă€ WWHG RQH WHDU RII ZKLFK LV ZKDW , normally do for short circuit racing, and it worked really well. The visor also features a double-lock. So, when you close the visor there is a secondary “slideâ€? that you can move up to give extra security for high speed work. I am quite particular about helmets, I guess they’ve saved my life the few times I’ve crashed and a lot of that FRPHV GRZQ WR WKH Ă€ WPHQW DQG TXDOLW\ of the materials used. That’s why I trust Shoei and especially the new X-Spirit III for my racing, and sometimes I’ll wear it on the road, but only on special occasions. It’s my pride and joy and you should make it yours too. The X-Spirit III is available in a range of solid colours ($999), graphics ($1149 as you see here) and Replicas ($1199). Sizes range from XS to XXL and you can get clear, yellow hi-viz, dark smoke and transition visors, along with the tear-offs. See your local bike shop or visit www.mcleodaccessories.com.au SW

GLOVE TACTS

didn’t sweat in this helmet nearly as much as I expected to when at Sepang. Normally on hot days on a race track I get the occasional sweat drip onto my visor under hard braking, but there was hardly any sweat to speak of, which which really knocked my socks off. It was only when I’d stopped in the pits and taken my helmet off that I started to sweat!

Tacky, but in a good way Price - $14.99 Have you ever hated that your motorcycle gloves don’t work when you want to use your GPS

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USED&REVIEWED

highly recommended IURP PH *UDE D SDFN IURP 6PDUW 0RWRUF\FOH Accessories and get sensitive! www.smartmotorcycle DFFHVVRULHV FRP DX 6:

DRIRIDER SCRAMBLER JACKET Understated vintage style Price - $399.95 ,I \RX·UH DIWHU D stylish, yet understated everyday jacket that’s ZDWHUSURRI DQG reasonably warm, then the new Dririder 6FUDPEOHU MDFNHW ZLWK a detachable 75 gram thermal liner is what you need. 7KH RXWHU VKHOO RI WKH MDFNHW LV PDGH IURP a 700 Denier

smartphone? Well, here’s a cheap VROXWLRQ ZLWK WKH À WPHQW RI Glove Tacts! *ORYH 7DFWV DUH SDWFKHV PDGH RI D conducting material that makes your glove/s able to activate touch sensitive screens. The two patches contained in the Glove Tact packet simply stick WR WKH À QJHU V \RX·G OLNH WR FKRRVH , SXW RQH RQ P\ OHIW KDQG LQGH[ À QJHU ZKLFK WRRN DOO RI WHQ VHFRQGV WR À W Now my previously un-touch-sensitive gloves are touch sensitive! Just like that. *ORYH 7DFW FODLPV \RX JHW D OLIHWLPH connection, the patches are guaranteed to stick, are machine washable and have DZHVRPH GXUDELOLW\ DQG , GRQ·W GRXEW WKDW IRU D VHFRQG , ZDV D OLWWOH VFHSWLFDO DW À UVW WKLQNLQJ LW ZRXOG SHHO RII DIWHU D FRXSOH RI GD\V EXW QR , ZDV ZURQJ The Glove Tact has stayed in place and works a treat, so they come very

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0D[WH[ ZLWK DQ RLO FRDWHG YLQWDJH VW\OH and bronze stitching highlights. There is CE armour in the shoulders and elbows DQG DQ (9$ EDFN SDG IRU SURWHFWLRQ which you might like to replace with something more protective. You get a GHWDFKDEOH ZDWHUSURRI OLQHU WRR 7KH thermal liner zips into this; it cannot be À WWHG E\ LWVHOI LW PXVW EH À WWHG WR WKH ZDWHUSURRI OLQHU À UVW 7KHUH LV D PHVK FRPIRUW OLQHU LQ ERWK WKH MDFNHW DQG WKH ZDWHUSURRI OLQHU DQG WKHUH DUH DGMXVWHUV WR JHW WKH ULJKW À W DW WKH ELFHSV IRUHDUPV ZULVWV DQG ZDLVW <RX DOVR JHW VRPH OLJKW SHUIRUDWLRQ IRU DLU YHQWLODWLRQ LQ ZDUPHU ZHDWKHU %XW WKH IHDWXUH , OLNH PRVW DERXW WKH 6FUDPEOHU MDFNHW LV WKH RSHQ FROODU 6L]LQJ LV D WRXFK ODUJHU WKDQ ZKDW ,·YH KDG EHIRUH ZLWK 'ULULGHU VR , UHFRPPHQG WU\LQJ WKLV RQH RQ EHIRUH SXUFKDVLQJ WR JHW WKH FRUUHFW VL]H IRU \RX 7KHUH·V D ZLGH UDQJH RI VL]HV IURP ;6 ;/ LQ WKH EODFN RU 6 ;/ in the brown.

To show you how much I like the Dririder Scrambler jacket, it has become my everyday jacket because of its practicality and understated vintage style [It goes with his understated vintage look – the sub]. Grab one from your local bike shop or visit www.dririder.com.au SW

BEARLY HERE A quick word from the departure lounge If you’re wondering why the load of product testing has fallen on Stuart’s shoulders lately, it’s because I’ve been Ă \LQJ DURXQG WKH SODFH HYHQ PRUH WKDQ he has. Not to worry, though, I’ll be back when I’m back; as you read this I will probably just have climbed out of the plane back from Spain and my IMTBike tour of the north of that FRXQWU\ 6R KDQJ LQ DQG \RX¡OO Ă€ QG out all about such beaut products as Honda’s super-warm hoodie and Rjays wet weather suit. It has Ă XRUHVFHQW SDQHOV ² ZDWFK PH MXVWLI\ my choice when I’ve always ranted DJDLQVW Ă XRUR 37

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TE C HNICAL

BEHIND THE COUNTER

BM MOTORCYCLES - RINGWOOD,VIC

A

s Pseudo Echo once sang, ‘ Yes I love an adventure, it’s something to pass the time...’ After 33 odd years in the industry (some odder than others!) most of servicing BMW’S, anyone could expect or even forgive Chris Roberts of BM Motorcycles (Vic) of snicking it into top gear, setting the cruise control and watching the world go by. However, Chris obviously hadn’t read the script and far from sitting back and enjoying the fruits of his labour, he has expanded his successful business into the Adventure equipment market. Recognising the rising popularity of Adventure Riding, Chris decided to dedicate the majority of his showroom to not just a camping display, but also to categories which include bike maintenance and setup and brands such as EXPED, Rocky Creek Design, Sea to Summit, ONE PLANET, Helinox, Ortlieb, CamelBak, Kreiga and of course Touratech, just to name a few.

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But Chris wasn’t content with just re-laying the store and adding some new products to his range. Part of his grand- plan was to employ Evelin Ritschl to manage this area of his business. Eve, originally from Germany, moved to Australia about ten years ago and set about exploring this big wide land. An avid Adventure motorcyclist, Eve currently rides an F700GS and a Suzuki DRZ250. Eve’s passion for the great outdoors led her to working with Touratech, who are based in Carboor, in the foothills of Victoria’s High Country, and as such she has had an excellent grounding in discovering just which products do and don’t work. “Having tried and tested many of the products that are on the market, I was able to select those that I can personally recommend” says Eve. “This way we have been able to rationalize our range and help our customers take the guesswork out of what products best suit Adventure Riding i.e. quite often someone will buy something based on price, and

it’s not until they are in the harsh outback environment that it’s trueworth can be tested and often it is too late once you are freezing because you bought the wrong sleeping bag or riding gear”. Chris has been in the current premises for 19 years and collectively his team (James, Mick, Adam & Eve) have over 100 years of BMW experience between them. They pride themselves on being Victoria’s largest independent supplier of BMW spare parts, servicing and repair work.

BM Motorcycles can be found at: 5 Heatherdale Road Ringwood,Vic. Phone: 03 9870 3807 E: Info@ringwoodmotorcycles.com.au Website: www.bmmotorcycles.com.au

TRAVEL

STRANDED!

NO NEED TO BE

WORDS THE BEAR

, SRVHG IRU WKLV VKRW IRU UHDVRQV , KDYH QRZ IRUJRWWHQ ,W LV QRW LQWHQGHG LQ DQ\ ZD\ WR LPSO\ WKDW 7ULXPSKV DUH XQUHOLDEOH LQ IDFW WKH\ DUH ZHOO EXLOW DQG UREXVW ELNHV

I

’m going on a motorcycle trip, dear. What could go wrong? Well, heaps, as it happens. Not as much as a few years ago, admittedly. Your BMW will no longer chew up the diaphragm of its Bing carburettor because it doesn’t have a carburettor at all, least of all a Bing. Your Triumph won’t melt its battery and your Ducati won’t vibrate all of its light bulbs to

7HUUL¼F UHSDLU NLW EXW RQO\ IRU WXEHOHVV W\UHV ,I \RX³UH WXELQJ \RX³OO QHHG WKH 7\UHSOLHUV NLW RU D FDQ RI VHDODQW / 7\UHSOLHUV³ &RPSOHWH 7XEHG 0RWRUF\FOH 7\UH 5HSDLU .LW ,W³V DV ELJ DQG VWURQJ DV LWV QDPH LV ORQJ

scrap. Even your Harley won’t chew up its electrics. Most of these things have Gone Before and would be Pushing up

Daisies if they weren’t still scattered through the shelves of bike wreckers. Those that are still being made are far more reliable and unlikely to leave you

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This little beauty can save you a staggering amount of work, especially if you’re running big, fat tyres that need ELJ IDW DPRXQWV RI DLU WR LQ½ DWH

If you’re riding this, the only thing you’ll need is a box of matches‌

Andy’s amazing full-on First Aid kit is a bit PXFK IRU VROR RU VPDOO JURXS WUDYHOOHUV 7KHUH LV D VPDOOHU NLW %XW LI \RX WUDYHO ZLWK D ELJJHU JURXS WKLV LV WKH ZD\ WR JR

standing by the side of the road. And yet, and yet‌ it pays to be prepared. I have travelled with some interesting people. One of them had a pannier full of prescription drugs. It contained‌ hell, I don’t have the faintest idea what it contained. All I know is that it was a riot of coloured FDUGERDUG ER[HV ZLWK ´VFLHQWLĂ€FÂľ names on them, and there was a clear plastic folder in the lid of the pannier which contained all the prescriptions – just in case any of the boxes ran out. Another good mate had both panniers Ă€OOHG ZLWK PHDOV WKDW KLV ZLIH KDG

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p p g Tupperware containers, complete with heating instructions on crepe tape on the lids. In France, the country that gave the World the modern concepts of democracy and freedom at the cost of countless deaths by guillotine, the latest French Revolution has led to motorcyclists being required to wear a certain percentage of day-glo on their jacket, carry a breathalyser (honest to Gaston!) and a hi-viz vest (pillions QHHG RQH WRR VWLFN Ă XRUR SDWFKHV with a minimum combined area of 18cm2 to their helmets in IRXU VSHFLĂ€ HG SODFHV DQG VSHDN OLNH Peter Sellers. Oh, all right, I lied about the last one. I think. I dare say that any sensible person would agree that none of those things are truly essential in France, except

p p p aking like Peter Sellers so the locals will understand you. None of these things are vital anywhere else, either, unless you enjoy doing FORZQĂ€ VK LPLWDWLRQV LQ \RXU Ă XRURV ´+H\ \RX VHHQ 1HPR" %OXE EOXE Âľ So what should you carry, apart from your appropriately augmented toolkit? That, as well as the skills you might want to acquire, is the subject of a future story. Going out for a Sunday afternoon blast I’d take a tyre repair kit, for tubed or tubeless tyres as appropriate, but not much else. Going away for a fortnight to FNQ would be a bit different. So let’s ask the question another way. What is there that would be worth carrying under various circumstances? The suggestions below are not in order; I tried, but I couldn’t sort them properly. And we all know what happens when you sort things

Power Brick is not something you’d usually carry, unless you’re worried about the state of your battery. But for long trips, especially camping, it would be on my list.

If you’re riding one of these, you might need some dowel rod, a wood chisel and plenty of Aquadhere.

improperly, don’t we? The products or services mentioned below are suggestions only; there are often alternatives which might be just as good. I just don’t know them well enough.

MOBILE PHONE

First of all, take your mobile and make sure it’s charged or you can charge it from the bike. My Ducati Scrambler, for instance, has a USB socket under the seat for that purpose and my Sportster has a cigarette lighter socket for which I carry an adapter. Failing that, get an Australian MOTORCYCLIST Magazine Power Bank either from our website www. ausmotorcyclist.com.au for $19.95 or free if you subscribe. A mobile can replace almost all of the other gear I have listed here, under most circumstances. I know you’ll be carrying it anyway, but if I didn’t mention it I’d get letters again. Remember that phones will still allow you to make emergency calls if you’re outside your provider’s coverage – as long as you’re in someone’s coverage. Telstra still has the biggest footprint in Australia.

TYRE REPAIR KIT

MotoPressor Tubeless Tyre Repair Kit $69.95

Tyrepliers Tube Type Tyre Repair Kit $262.90 Motul Tyre Repair $22.90 A tyre repair kit of some kin goes without saying, even if it s just an aerosol can. You might be knocking the ozone layer around, but at least you’ll get home out of the nowdangerous sun. Bastard. All right, here’s how we roll: the MotoPressor kit is good for tubeless tyre repairs, and I tend to carry one of these when I’m out on the Scrambler. I like the multitool that comes with it, and the way it is packed into a neat neoprene (nobody ever seems to use oldoprene) bag. You can replace both the “strings” and the CO2 cylinders if you use them, so the kit has a practically unlimited life. See www. rockycreekdesigns.com.au . It might seem a bit expensive but it looks to be a quality product. And it’s pretty cheap compared to this next one… Tyrepliers has offered tough, highquality products for a long time and we have been using them for nearly as long. Tyrepliers gear is for when you’re not mucking around, out the back of nowhere and counting, ZKHUH \RX ZLOO GHÀ QLWHO\ QRW UHJUHW the cost. This kit for tubed tyres is designed to get you out of trouble no matter how much you’re in; unlike pretty much any other kit it includes

a strongly made bead breaker and impressive 300mm long tyre levers as well as replacement valves and even a complete valve with a patch attached. If you run out of CO2 cylinders, you FDQ XVH WKH LQÁDWRU DV D KDQG SXPS I unreservedly recommend Tyrepliers products; read more at www.tyrepliers. com.au . Finally, here’s salvation-in-a-can. Apply the nozzle of your Motul Tyre Repair aerosol can and moments later you will be on your way. Motul says that unlike some other similar products, theirs will not harm the tube or tyre. Get it from most motorcycle shops, and if you want more info read WKH FDQ ² , FDQ·W ÀQG LW RQ 0RWXO·V website. Maybe you ought to carry one of these at all times. You know the story: if you’re prepared, nothing will go wrong. Hah.

TYRE PUMP

MotoPressor Pocket Pump $49.95 It’s small and light, and it will save you a lot of time and effort when you need to pump up a tyre or anything else. You may need a specialised pump

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TRAVEL

Petrol shortage or strike? Here’s your answer – a gas conversion!

out of fuel. Yep, done this. Remember to add fuel before applying power brick in this case. More on the one in the photo which has a staggering range of connectors from www. rockycreekdesigns.com.au . It also has D EXLOW LQ Ă DVKOLJKW EXW LW GRHV QRW replace the Maglite below in all applications. If you know what I mean.

CABLE TIES

Free, probably. You’re bound (sorry‌) to have a few lying around. Check your local police station if you run out. Pack a few different lengths and widths, with a rubber band around them. Remember to replace the rubber band occasionally; they lose their ‘rubberiness’. Take ties in a bright colour; this will remind you where you have applied them and to check if more permanent repairs are necessary. to add pressure to your shocks. Well, unless you own a GoldWing. They have a compressor built in. Yay for GoldWings. See more about this, non-GoldWing owners, at www. rockycreekdesigns.com.au .

FIRST AID KIT

Aide Adventurer Large Group Kit $110 First aid kits are good for minor injuries like cuts or sprains. For anything more serious, use your mobile phone. Far more useful is a working knowledge of CPR and other hands-on help. The exception is out in the bush, where you can (because you may have to) treat even broken bones with a good First Aid kit – such as this one from Andy Strapz. You don’t necessarily want to call outside help even for a reasonably serious injury when you’re in the middle of nowhere. On the road or at a rally, the usefulness

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of a kit is usually restricted to the removal of splinters or the application of burn salve or Band-Aids, things for which Andy’s kit is also good. You can buy one (he also has a smaller, cheaper NLW DQG ÀQG D OLVW RI WKH FRQWHQWV RQ www.andystrapz.com .

POWER BRICK

MotoPressor Mini Jump Starter $98.95 I’ve had more than one experience of running out of trick-trick, as the young daughter of an ex-girlfriend used to call it. Yes, you’d think I would learn but there you go. Power bricks are good for camping, when you might easily drain your bike’s battery; for riding with friends who have not been looking after their batteries; and for helping strangers to start the bike whose battery they’ve drained by continually pressing the starter button when they’re actually

DUCT TAPE

Cheap at the price, whatever it costs. (Including left-handed duct tape.) &DEOH WLHV ZLOO Ă€[ DOPRVW HYHU\WKLQJ for the remainder there’s duct (or duck, both are correct) tape. And no, there is no such thing as left-handed duct tape. Or ‘duck-tape’. But you knew that. Take a bright colour in this, too, for the same reason as above.

LIGHTEN UP

And last but not least, Boris’ suggestion: a four or six D cell Maglite, strapped to the top of the tank bag for‌ various uses. I don’t know how much they cost. Mrs Bear gave me mine for my birthday. Big Maglite torches can be pressed into duty for a variety of uses, including providing light.

GET CAUGHT WITHOUT... LIGHTWEIGHT FOLDING BIKERZ CHAIR Âť Small enough to take with you on any ride!

Âť Weighs only 940g and holds up to 120 kg.

Âť Folds into a bag measuring

MAKING MOTORCYCLE INSURANCE SIMPLE

38 x 10 x 12cm (52 x 50 x 65cm when opened). Âť Almost assembles itself with self-locating shock cord techno

TYRE REPAIR KIT Âť A multi-tool to remove the

MOTORCYCLE INSURANCE SPECIALISTS Letting you Live Free and Ride Free for over 25 years.

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NEW ENGLAND INSURANCE BROKERS PTY LTD

MINI JUMP STARTER Don’t let yourself be stranded with a flat battery! This little lithium jump starter is pocket-sized, light, packs a real punch and will easily tuck into a tank bag, top box or pannier. Our mini jump starter comes with a recharging plug suitable for both YEAR BMW (merit) sockets and normal car E D W A R R type accessory sockets. Comes in a compact bag with all accessories including USB port and cable so you can recharge your phone, ipad or GPS. LIMIT

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AN

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offending object from your tyre AND to trim the plug after you’ve fixed your puncture.  A DynaplugŽ Ultralite repair tool including 4 plugs.  Three CO2 canisters.  An inflation tool.

EC5 ADAPTER The EC5 adapter can be connected to the Jump Starter and then to the Pocket Pump so there is no need to attach the Pocket Pump to the battery terminal if you have the Jump Starter! SEE THESE AND ALL NEW PRODUCTS ON OUR WEBSITE

WWW.NEIB.COM.AU admin@neib.com.au This Motorcycle Product is issued by &*8 Insurance Limited (ABN , AFSL ) trading as &*8 Insurance. You should read the Product Disclosure Statement (PDS) before deciding to purchase this product. You can obtain a copy of the PDS from our website (www.neib.com.au) or by phoning our ofďŹ ce.

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EVENT

SHOWTIME PERSONAL MEMORIES

INTERMOT Cologne Int. Motorcycle, Scooter and E-Bike

WORDS/PHOTOS THE BEAR

European customisers are less likely than Americans to limit their base bikes to Harley-Davidsons. / Wonderful way to advertise heated clothing‌ I think.

fair, 5-9 October 2016 Open daily from 09.00am – 18.00pm except on 07 October 2016: 09:00am - 20:00pm Hotline for visitors: +49 1806 022 522

L

et us set the Time Machine to 1980, Mr Hillyer, and the place – Cologne on the Rhine, the east bank just north of the Hohenzollern Bridge. We are at the Internationale Fahrrad und Motorrad Ausstellung, or IFMA. As you would have discovered if you read the most recent issue,

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this is the predecessor of today’s motorcycle exhibition INTERMOT. It ZDV DOVR WKH Ă€UVW RQH , DWWHQGHG DQG here I am about to see, among endless rows of booths selling bicycle gears and wheels, the launch of two of the most important motorcycles ever to see the light of day. One will return BMW to its glory days; the other will demonstrate that Munich was still too tentative in its designs. 7KH Ă€UVW RI FRXUVH LV WKH 5 * 6 the motorcycle which established the class of “large endurosâ€? or “adventure travel bikesâ€?. The other is the 1200

Katana, still a startling design and at the time completely outrageous. Designed by Hans Muth, originally IRU %0: LW ZDV EXLOW E\ 6X]XNL DV D show pony, but quickly turned into a production model when the company realised its impact. 7KLV ZDV DOVR WKH Ă€UVW WLPH , KDG attended a major motorcycle show, and to say that I was blown away would be putting it mildly. The show impressed me to the point where I would stay as long as I could in the evening and then wait at the gates in the morning to get back in. I continued to make my way to Cologne every second year, and ten years later I was rewarded by another spectacular ZRUOG Ă€UVW ² WKH QHZ range of Triumphs, fresh from Hinckley and still in their “Legoâ€?

A demonstration of the Bear’s First Law of Motorcycle Shows: when things are going well in the industry, the girls on the show stands are predominantly blondes.

form with interchangeable parts and matching engines. It only took another two years until Ducati made its move with the Monster. Designer Miguel Galluzzi said of the Monster that “All you need is: a saddle, tank, engine, two wheels, and handlebars,” which was of course not quite right – a dash of genius helped too. Management changes at the German motorcycle industry association meant that the show was moved to Munich from 1998 and renamed INTERMOT.

It broke its connection with the bicycle industry and concentrated on powered two wheelers. I’m not sure this was a good idea, at least the move; Munich is not as close to the centre of Europe as Cologne is, and numbers of attendees shrank. In 2006, the show returned to Cologne. Since then it has been thrilling motorcyclists and informing the industry in the new trade fair buildings on the old site, and I have been making the loyal trek across the Rhine from my various hotels to make sure I was up to date with all the latest from across the globe. Of course the outstanding local beer and relaxed atmosphere in the restaurants along the Rhine haven’t hurt, either… This year INTERMOT expects

The big hit at the 2014 INTERMOT was Ducati’s Scrambler. Hey, I bought one…

nearly 1000 exhibitors, 200,000 visitors and media from 105 countries, including me from Australia. The stars come out in a big way. Of course all the information from the major launches is available on the web as soon as it is released at the show, but there are many small manufacturers with fascinating goodies who are only accessible if you’re right there. Not to mention the roar of the engines and the smell of the crowd… Every year, I meet a few of our readers or advertisers over there for the show. Might be you this year!

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$XVʤUÉŞĘ™LĘ‹Éš

BACK ISSUES

It’s still possible to collect most issues: don’t miss the opportunity. And they only cost $12.00 each including postage; just visit the website and place your order – www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au; or drop us a line at info@ausmotorcyclist.com.au or PO Box 2066, Boronia Park NSW 2111 and Stuart or the Bear will look after you.

#1 March 2013 Collectors’ Edition / Tear-out map: Gold Country,Vic / The best motorcycle holiday / Bike tours you will love / Ducati Multistrada Touring / Triumph Street Triple R / BMW HP4 / Kawasaki Z800 / Suzuki Inazuma / Hyosung range / Suzuki DL650, BMW F 800 GS,Triumph Tiger 1050 / 6 touring essentials / 17 new bikes

#2 April 2013 Tear-out map: Sydney to Cowra / One Tank Touring – Australia the short way / Moto Guzzi California 1400 Touring / Triumph Trophy SE / Ducati Monster 1100 EVO / CF Moto 650NK / BMW C 650 GT / Go somewhere interesting in Australia / Dririder Vortex & Touratech Compaùero suits / Great Japan Road Trip / Commuting for fun

#6 August 2013 Tear-out map: Dorrigo delights / Get away on Ducati’s Hyperstrada / Coffee & cake in NSW Southern Highlands / Getting the most out of your bike / Great Alpine Road,Vic / Aprilia RSV 4R & RSV4 Factory / New Triumph Tiger Sport / MG Cali 1400 Custom / Yamaha R15 / Horizons Unlimited meeting / Dirty CafÊ Racer

#7 September 2013 Tear-out map: Margaret River, WA / Launching (but not yet riding)the new Indians / Save fuel / Special Feature: motorcycle travel – NSW, SA, VIC, QLD, NT, WA, Sth Island NZ, Route 66 / Throttle Roll / Classy customising / Suzuki Hayabusa / Aprilia Caponord / Kawasaki 1700 Classic / Pirelli Angel GT

#11 January 2014 Tear-out map: Moree, NSW / 2014’s new bikes straight from Milan / All about trailers / Triumph LAMS bike / H-D Super Glide / Yamaha MT-09 & MT-03 / BMW GS Safari Enduro / Part 3 of You Can Afford that Big Trip / Piaggio X10 / MOTOmania, your favourite cartoon, now every month / H-D Street 500 – Harley’s LAMS bike

#12 February 2014 Tear-out map: Barmah,Vic / Buyers’ guides: best Adventure bikes, top LAMS bikes / Triumph Explorer 1200 wire wheel / Honda CTX700N / Buy a Harley trike in Australia / Ural upgrade / Ride Alaska on a free bike / Meet Tex & Bundy / Bungle Bungles,WA / Two women and a BSA in 1952 / 10,000km with Grandpa

#16 June 2014 Two tear-out maps! Road: SE Vic & NSW, Adventure: Flinders Ranges / Top touring with BMW R 1200 RT / H-D Road King Classic / Spring is near – get ready / Katana memories / Touring all over Australia / H-D Fat Bob / The latest on Erik Buell / We launch MOTORCYCLIST tours / Choppers Australia / Ulysses shock

#17 July 2014 Tear-out maps: Road, Northern New England & Adventure, the Gibb River Road / Tyre Special / BMW RnineT / Ducati Monster 1200S /Triumph Commander LT / Yamaha Stryker & SR400 / Travel: Cairns, Bellingen, Alice Springs / New Buells and Benellis / We want a Yike Bike / Get the bike you want, not the one they build / Where can a postie bike take you?

#3 May 2013 Tear-out map:Adelaide Hills / Ride in comfort & safety in winter / BMW R 1200 GS Water Boxer / Riding Thunderbolts Way, the Flinders Ranges,Tasmania, Texas Qld / Kawasaki Versys 1000 / H-D Night Rod / Want to get into the bike business? / Husqvarna TR650 Terra & Strada / BMW F 800 GT / MG Cali 1400 Touring on tour

#8 October 2013 Tear-out map: Grampians / Huge summer clothing survey / BMW F 800 GS A / We ride the new Rushmore Harleys / H-D LAMS bike announced / MV Agusta F4 RR is beautiful / Triumph Daytona 675 / Ducati Multi GT / Perth to Darwin with the Bear / Yamaha TMax 530 / Time for a trailer? / A leg up for the country

#4 June 2013 Tear-out map: Murrurundi / All you need to know about helmets / Travel the Savannah Way, Sydney’s secret six destinations, Sabah’s sensational square, chase the cheese / Yamaha FJR1300A / Honda CBR500R / Kawasaki KJLR 650 / Triumph Tiger 1050 / Honda Goldwing F6B / Victory Boardwalk / KTM 390 Duke / Triumph Street Triple

#9 November 2013 Tear-out map: Texas, Qld / Christmas gift guide / Can a Harley make you happy? / BMW K 1300 S / Ducati Diavel Strada / Kawasaki 1400 GTR / Yamaha Bolt / Suzuki Gladius / Aprilia SRV850 / Piaggio Beverly / Retro compare: W800,V7 & Bonneville / Bellarine Vic, Doctors gap NSW, Adelaide River Road NT / The Black Stump

#13 March 2014 Tear-out map: Getting hot in NSW / All Aussie travels / Kawasaki Z1000 / Special features: camping gear, bike tours / Aprilia SRV850 vs Yamaha TMax / Ducati 1199 Panigale & Panigale S / Triumph Storm for touring / The Outback on a road bike / Tassie on a Postie / What happens at the big overseas bike shows?

#14 April 2014 Tear-out map: Brisbane and surrounds / We ride Ducati’s mighty 1200S Monster / Suzuki V-Strom 1000 / Enjoying commuting / H-D E;ectraglide on tour / Kawasaki Ninja 1000 / Avon 3D ultrasport tyre / One of the world’s best choppers / Dirt trip: Dargo to Bright / Travelling Qld, NSW & VIC / The light side of border crossings

#18 August 2014 Helmet Special / Tear-out maps: Adventure, Duck Creek Rd & Road, northern NSW / Electric Harley / Aprilia Caponord v Kawasaki Ninja 1000 / BMW S 1000 R / Ducati SF848 / Indian Vintage on tour / Kawasaki KLR 650 / Triumph Commander / Honda CBR 650F / Travel: Bombala, Oodnadatta Track, Riddoch +LJKZD\ 6$ /RRNLQJ IRU WKH À UVW oil well in California

#19 September 2014 Vale John Galvin / Indian Scout revealed / /DQH À OWHULQJ KRZ WR 7HDU RXW maps: Road, Outback NSW & Adventure the Watagans / Honda CTX1300 / Yamaha MT-09 / Kawasaki KLX150L / Honda 9)5 ) 8SJUDGHG 8UDO RXWÀ WV / Raider Motorcycles build your bike / Travel: NSW, New Zealand, California, Loaded Dog & Casper rallies / Twin Yamaha Bolts

#5 July 2013 Tear-out map: The best of Victoria / Bear’s Bucket List of Australian rides / The tyre advice you need / LAMS:Yamaha XVS650, Kawasaki Ninja 300, Husqvarna TR 650 Terra, Ducati Monster 659 / KTM 1190 & 1190R Adventures / Tassie travels / Honda CB500F / Suzuki C90T / Ural Adventure tour / Yamaha XV1900AT

#10 December 2013 Tear-out map: Mudgee, NSW / Special summer reading issue / We ride the Indians / Honda CB500X / BMW K 1600 GT two up / Yamaha Super Tenere / Victory Highball / Suzuki Burgman / Piaggio Yourban / A Duke in Scotland / Grey Nomads around Australia / Himalaya / Triumph Tiger Cub – Triumph Tiger what?!

#15 May 2014 Tear-out map: Central Tasmania / Toughest test: two CFMoto 650s across Oz and back in six days / Big winter clothing survey / BMW R 1200 GS Adventure – with water / Aprilia Tuono ABS / Ducati 899 Panigale / Touring BMW C 650 GT / Chicks get their kicks on Route 66 / Lithgow dirt / Hearing protection

#20 October 2014 Special feature Summer Riding: NZ, NSW,Vic / Boris joins us / KTM 1290 Superduke R / Suzuki V-Strom 1000 in the dirt / Ducati Multistrada Pikes Peak / Tear-out maps NZ and Tasmania / Melbourne’s Gasolina / Glenn McGrath on his bike / Wintersun Rally

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#32 October 2015 Special Feature: Mega luggage guide / Indian Roadmaster / Moto GuzziV7 / Aprilia RSV4 RR / Can-Am Spyder F3S / Ridden: 5 new 800s from MV Agusta / BMW S 1000 XR launch / Flexi-frame / Mongolia / Bridgestone’s T30 Evo tested / Our NZ Tour

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#29 July 2015 Special Feature: Improve your bike.Aprilia Caponord Rally,Victory Magnum,Triumph Tiger XRx, Yamaha Bolt C-Spec, Honda Valkyrie.Taylors Arm, the real pub with no beer.Travel: top of Oz,Victoria, NSW. Isle of Man pullout poster, we salute Aussie TT heroes. Pirelli Angel GT test. Savannah Way.

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#30 August 2015 All about tyres. Shipping your bike. Ducati Multistrada 1200 DVT, Yamaha R3. Maps:WA coast and inland NSW.Alpine Rally. Beautiful Bloody Balkans tour, Bridle Track NSW,Toompine pub. Commuting costs: Holden v Aprilia. Classic BMW R 7. Kuryakyn Sportster 72 – customising with the best

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#28 June 2015 Special feature: bike maintenance.Travel: Unknown Route 66, Cooma,Walcha, SA. Tear-Out Maps: Darling Downs, Tasmania East Coast.Triumph Tiger XCx,Yamaha MT-09 Sport Tracker, Suzuki V-Strom 650 XT. Comparo tourers Ducati, Kawasaki,Triumph, BMW & Yamaha. HOG 2015. GPS on your phone. Skill Master.

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#27 May 2015 Huge Winter Guide: 44 ways for you to stay warm / Six LAMS bikes from Kawasaki / Launch BMW S 1000 RR, R 1200 R, F 800 R / Inspect a Gadget / Horizons Unlimited get-together / Suzuki Burgman 200 / Tear-out maps: more around Omeo & Fraser Island / Adventure Film Festival / Melbourne-Sydney on a V-Strom 650 XT

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#34 December 2015 The old legend meets the new legend: Kawasaki H2 v Kawasaki H2 / KTM1290 Super Adventure / 2 delightful Sydney day trips / Map of Tasmania /Yamaha MT-07 HO / Not-A-Pub in Coober Pedy / The Bear’s Best of the West tour of USA / Beating the insurance company

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#25 March 2015 Tests Kawasaki Versys 1000 & H-D Street 500 / A girl’s tour of Oz / Visiting Brembo / Tear-out maps: following the Darling & back roads of Omeo / All about organised motorcycle tours / travel around Sydney and the SA Limestone Coast / Boris at Bombala / Zero supplies police bikes / Pub tales from all over

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#24 February 2015 Launch, Ducati Scrambler / Four new LAMS bikes:Triumph Street 7ULSOH (QÀ HOG &DIp 5DFHU .DZD Vulcan S, Mercury / Travel to the Alps,Tibet, New Zealand, Malaysia – and Australia! / Shinko tyre test / Tear-out maps: Coober Pedy & Bingara / Pimp your Beemer / Where to meet your mates all over Oz

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#23 January 2015 Rest of the 2015 bikes, from Milan / Indian Scout launch / Yamaha TriCity / CF Moto 650NK / Are sports bikes back? / Tear-out maps Putty Road & the Cape / Our Bombala Show / Melbourne-Adelaide the back way / The Bear travels with Edelweiss

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#35 January 2016 The best new bikes for the year from the Milan Show / Ducati Multistrada 1200 S DVT / Harley-Davidson S launch / New Ural cT combination / KTM 1050 Adventure / Horizons Unlimited in Boonah / Five Punts in Sydney / IsVision Zero, ZeroVision?

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CLASSICMORRIS Stick em in this reactor, Lester!

LESTER AND THE SLOW SAFARI WORDS LESTER MORRIS

I

t was a letter to the Editor in a copy of the British magazine ‘New Scientist’ which caught my eye, for I suggest it was much more revealing than the writer had intended it to be. It was a short missive following up a story in a previous issue about driverless cars. Part of the letter stated: “Some years ago research was carried out in Switzerland on maximizing the number of cars passing through WUDIĂ€F OLJKWV HDFK F\FOH 7KH RSWLPXP was found to involve a two-car space between all cars with ‘the whole line moving off simultaneously’ (my italic, LM). “In practice this is never going to happen (He’s so right about that – LM again) but we can each stop further back, so we can see where the rear wheels of the vehicle in front touch the ground, and move off as soon as the vehicle in front does.â€? Seems like a great idea, doesn’t it,

100

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but it is never going to work either because of what I call the ‘Slow Reactors’; those drivers who take several seconds for the penny to drop after the lights have changed to green before they decide to slot the car into Ă€UVW JHDU UHPRYH WKHLU ULJKW IRRW from the brake pedal and apply some pressure to the accelerator pedal with the same foot as they ease the clutch in and drift slowly away. It would be much more preferable if, like Grand Prix race car drivers, everyone took RII DW RQFH DV VRRQ DV WKH WUDIĂ€F lights allow us to do so, but this is real life so that is (truly) never going to happen. For some odd reason, GULYHUV RI FDUV Ă€WWHG ZLWK DXWRPDWLF gearboxes appear to be just as slow to react as drivers of cars with manual ones. We’ve seen this sort of thing at HYHU\ VHW RI WUDIĂ€F OLJKWV ZKLFK KDYH just gone red in our faces, for the driver at the head of the queue who

has just pulled up is by then either picking his nose and scratching his behind – or is it the other way around? – and has drifted off into Never-Never Land or is mentally sucking his thumb, only to come back to Earth again several seconds after the lights have changed before ² Ă€QDOO\ VORZO\ PRYLQJ RII DJDLQ Often the polite beeping of a car immediately behind is required as an awakening device to wake these Slow Reactors. 7KH Ă€UVW UDWH 6ORZ 5HDFWRU DW WKH head of the queue is usually followed several seconds later by another trickling driver, and then another one, all of whom appear to have been in a type of suspended animation or have gently wafted off into Dreamland during that short hiatus between the time the red light rudely interrupts our journey, and the green one at last lets it go on again. Slow Reactors each and every one

of them, which provides no surprise ZKHQ RQH RU DQRWKHU RI WKHP Ă€ QGV themselves being crashed into by another S.R. or have managed to crash into something else it took them too long to react to. It often means that, if one is unhappily driving the family car, by WKH WLPH ZH DUULYH DW WKH WUDIĂ€ F OLJKWV they have magically turned red in our faces again. This happens even though, as motorcyclists and thus automatically Rapid Pro-reactors we could see – from, say, ten or more cars back – a green light appear and have already begun to move slowly forward. We are then too often impeded, dare I say it again, by a S.R directly in front. Another one of the great GLVDGYDQWDJHV WR VPRRWK WUDIĂ€ F Ă RZ LV DOVR JHQHUDWHG E\ WKH 6 5 for these drivers seem, in general, WR EH XQDZDUH RI WKH WUDIĂ€ F ÂśUXOHV ¡ which apply in and/or approaching roundabouts. They will often slow perceptibly upon approaching these

devious devices and then stop for several seconds to allow a driver some distance away, but on their righthand side, to access the roundabout ahead of all who are immediately behind the S.R.. But it must be added that one advantage of this type of GULYHU¡V ODFN RI FRJQLWLRQ LV WKDW WKH\ all appear to be unaware of the width of their vehicles. This creates the priceless advantage bestowed upon us by Honda Highway which, as we are motorcyclists and usually perched upon two wheels, we can now (legally) use. This handy space between rows RI FDUV DOORZV XV WR Ă€ OWHU WR WKH KHDG RI WKH TXHXH DW WUDIĂ€ F OLJKWV :H FDQ then accelerate briskly away from the ÂśIUHLJKW WUDLQ¡ RI 6 5 V EHKLQG XV ZKHQ it appears safe to do so. :KHQ , SXUFKDVHG P\ Ă€ UVW motorcycle in 1947, which was a 1929 500cc OHV Model 18 Norton, I was not allowed to ride it because I was still at school, with my mother suitable KRUULĂ€ HG EXW P\ GDG GULO\ PHQWLRQLQJ it was in fact a Very Good Idea.

To digress, for years I referred to that Norton as an ES2, but that was not its correct nomenclature, because the Model 18 had exposed valve springs and pushrods. The ES2 nomenclature adopted for the later 500 single–cylinder machine with HQFORVHG YDOYH JHDU WKH Âś(6¡ LW KDV been said and then argued about) UHIHUULQJ WR ÂśHQFORVHG VSULQJV¡ WKH number 2 to the second design of WKDW IDPRXV ROG 1RUWRQ $W ZDU¡V end, the Model 18 continued, but with telescopic front forks and rigid frame, the more expensive ES2 ZLWK SOXQJHU UHDU VXVSHQVLRQ LQ all other respects, they were identical machines. If my long-suffering mother – of Ă€ YH ER\V ZDV YHU\ XQKDSS\ ZKHQ , wheeled that long-wheelbase Norton home, my dad seemed fairly relaxed about it. He reckoned he had good reason to be at ease with me riding PRWRUF\FOHV DERXW ÂśEXW DW VRPH WLPH LQ WKH IXWXUH¡ KH VDLG VWHUQO\ IRU he had ridden more than a few as a

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101

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young man himself. He often said that anybody who wished to drive a motor car should be required by /DZ WR Ă€ UVW VSHQG DW OHDVW VL[ PRQWKV ULGLQJ D PRWRUF\FOH LQ KHDY\ WUDIĂ€ F because he said that one learns more ‘road sense’ in about two weeks riding a motorcycle than one would ever learn in a lifetime of driving a car. ,W¡V D ELW RI DQ RYHU VLPSOLĂ€ FDWLRQ WR EH VXUH EXW LW UHPDLQV D 0DQWUD ZKLFK , KDYH KHDUG UHSHDWHG YHU\ many times in the motorcycle trade LQ ZKLFK , ZRUNHG ² RQ DQG RII , PXVW DGPLW RYHU PDQ\ \HDUV DQG it holds more than a little truth. A Slow Reactor riding a motorcycle can H[SHFW WR EH LQ DOO VRUWV RI VWULIH XQWLO that rider quickly learns to become a Âś5DSLG 3UR UHDFWRU¡ LQVWHDG DQG WKH sooner the motorcyclist achieves that ORIW\ SLQQDFOH WKH EHWWHU 5HVW DVVXUHG when one begins riding a motorcycle LQ JLYH DQG WDNH WUDIĂ€ F RU Ă DVKLQJ DERXW RQ WKH RSHQ URDG LQ XQNQRZQ WHUULWRU\ LW GRHVQ¡W WDNH PXFK WLPH WR EHFRPH D 5DSLG 3UR UHDFWRU QR matter how much of a dedicated Slow

Reactor one may have been initially! I reckon it is not a matter of KRZ IDVW RQH¡V UHĂ H[HV PD\ EH QRU KRZ DOHUW WR GDQJHU RQH LV IRU a car driver almost automatically IHHOV PRUH VHFXUH PRUH UHOD[HG DQG WKXV SRVVLEO\ PRUH VORZ WR react while ensconced within the womb-like embrace of a motorcar. 7KH VDPH SHUVRQ PD\ IHHO PRUH YXOQHUDEOH ÂśRXWGRRUV¡ ZKHQ SHUFKHG XSRQ D YHKLFOH ZLWK MXVW WZR ZKHHOV XQGHUQHDWK LW DQG , VXJJHVW WKLV almost automatically results in a much more heightened awareness RI ZKDW LV KDSSHQLQJ DURXQG RQH I have observed - indeed felt - this SKHQRPHQD PDQ\ WLPHV RYHU as most of us surely have when UHJXODUO\ VZDSSLQJ IURP IRXU ZKHHOV WR WZR DQG EDFN DJDLQ But it must be said that Slow 5HDFWRUV FHUWDLQO\ KDYH WKHLU SODFH LQ WKLV OLIH LI ZH FRQVLGHU WKH following scenario: Let’s say we are about to leave on Safari into 'DUNHVW $IULFD DQG DPRQJVW RXU JURXS DUH VHYHUDO 6ORZ 5HDFWRUV

of a variety of genders. Instead of KDYLQJ WKLQJV DW WKH UHDG\ WKHVH SHRSOH KDYH WDNHQ DQ HWHUQLW\ WR À QG WKHLU SDVVSRUWV DW DOO &XVWRPV FKHFN SRLQWV EHHQ VORZ WR SDFN WKHLU OXJJDJH WDUG\ DW EUHDNIDVW WLPH DQG have been late in boarding the bus to take us to the edge of the 6HUHQJHWL 3ODLQV IRU RXU ZHHN ORQJ Walking Safari. Three days into our entirely GHOLJKWIXO KLNH ZLWK ULà HV VOXQJ casually across several of our shoulders but with our heavily-laden SRUWHUV KRSHIXOO\ HYHU YLJLODQW ZH DUH VXGGHQO\ VHW XSRQ E\ D SULGH RI OLRQV ZKLFK KDV VSRWWHG XV D GD\ RU VR HDUOLHU DQG KDV FUHSW DKHDG RI XV with tis members hidden away in the shrubbery as they eagerly await to DPEXVK XV DV ZH DSSURDFK $V WKHVH UDSDFLRXV EHDVWV OHDS into our shrieking midst in an effort to consume us all we should then be grateful for the fact that we have had several unwary Slow Reactors amongst us; God rest their S.R. souls.

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Motorcycle Tours in

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WHATSAYYOU E LOVE TO HEAR FROM YOU, the letters are among the most keenly read parts of the magazine. Please try and keep letters down to no more than 300 words.Then you can read many, not just a couple.We do reserve the right to cut them and, unless you identify yourself and at least your town or suburb and state, we will print your email address instead. Please address letters to thebear@ausmotorcyclist.com.au or Australian Motorcyclist Magazine, PO Box 2066, Boronia Park NSW 2111. All opinions published here are those of the writers and we do not vouch for their accuracy or even their sanity!

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BAG WINNER BEAR OF MANY TALENTS

Hi Peter “The Bear”, Last Saturday we had a chance meeting at Gingers Creek café and I appreciated the friendly chat we had. This morning I was looking at my “200 Top Rides” atlas and I realised that you’re the author! It’s such a great book and map collection I just wanted to send a quick message saying “Thanks!”. Thanks for putting the book 50 METRES OF HAPPINESS

Dear Bear, You know that the availability of inner city parking for motorcycles is one (amongst a number) of my obsessions. Well, I have to say I was overcome with joy when I managed to secure a couple of hours earlier on Friday, and on the way back home, I saw a good 50 meters worth jam packed with bikes of all description. The only shade in an otherwise sunny afternoon, was that old mate on the Suzi couldn’t squeeze in. A quick calculation could probably give a 4 or 5 bike to car ratio, roughly À JXULQJ WKDW DERXW RGG SHRSOH were able to park and get on with the day compared to, perhaps, 7 or eight at the very most if they were car spaces… Liveable cities are about more than just public transport and timetables. It is about having fun as well, surely?

Although, I must say, you never see anyone being unhappy about getting off a crowded bus or train, especially if one has had to share close personal space and air with some of our more unique members of society. Cheers Tim Standen Worrigee NSW You can actually go as high as 6 bikes to a car, Tim, if it’s something like a 4WD. Full credit to Sydney City Council, the Lord Mayor, Clover Moore and City Manager Victor Franco, who saw the sense of adding motorcycle parking to encourage use of bikes and scooters. They commissioned me to prepare some recommendations and I am still proud of the effect – The Bear GETTING CULTURED

Dear Bear, I know that you are fond of quoting wise men and women of old. Here is something I read yesterday, a reminder hat what is happening Canberra is nothing new under the sun. It’s by Su Tung-P’o who ved from WR “Families, when a child s born

together. I hope you’ve done well out of it. And thanks for the friendly chat last weekend. It’s always good to learn a bit more about various bikes etc. If only we could ride them all eh?! ;) Kind regards, Dave Dennis Thank you, Dave. I enjoyed our chat as well. There are few things better than sitting in the shade somewhere like Gingers Creek, and shooting the breeze about bikes – The Bear Want it to be intelligent. I, through intelligence, Having wrecked my whole life, Only hope the baby will prove Ignorant and stupid. Then it will crown a tranquil life By becoming a Cabinet Minister. Thank you for getting me interested in reading things like Chinese poetry. I can’t read it in the original, but some of the translations really rock. Martin Mehane Marrickville NSW SCIENCE IN THE SIZZLING

Dear Peter <RXU UHDGHU LV QRW WKH À UVW ULGHU WR challenge the climate chamber study (ABC Catalyst) as ‘not representing real life riding’. It might seem weird and possibly mad, but there was science behind the details. We are challenging urban myths. The gear worn in the study is a well-known brand, all-season suit with the thermal liner removed. We used this suit because it is the type most commonly worn, particularly by new riders. We tested various types of riding gear on a sweating thermal manikin and this suit had the worst thermal management. We used that suit for human trials in the climate chamber to establish whether

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W HATSAYYOU

motorcycle protective clothing, worn in average Australian summer conditions, FRXOG FDXVH VLJQLÀFDQW WKHUPDO DQG cardiovascular strain and potentially impair rider safety. If we could not impose thermal strain with the worst-case suit, then it would not occur with more thermally HIÀFLHQW JDUPHQWV The purpose of the exercise bike was to replicate the physiological workload of riding a motorcycle in an urban environment. The actual workload was HVWDEOLVKHG IURP ÀHOG WULDOV ZLWK VL[ experienced motorcyclists at the Honda rider training centre at Kilsyth, Victoria. Workload was determined by measuring the riders’ oxygen consumption with gas analysis masks (Metamax) to establish the metabolic heat produced while riding. Compared to their preWULDO EDVHOLQHV WKH ULGHUV FRQVXPHG ÀIW\ percent more oxygen while riding, and used more in urban than rural riding. In the climate chamber trials, this was replicated by the rider cycling very slowly, (60 rev per minute), in order

to produce the equivalent level of metabolic heat as riding in an urban environment. The results from this series of studies have established that thermal discomfort due to wearing a motorcycle suit in hot conditions (35°C) could UHVXOW LQ VLJQLĂ€ FDQW SK\VLRORJLFDO VWUDLQ We also found this to be associated with increased fatigue, mood change and impaired cognitive performance, each of which has implications for rider safety. In relation to the question of standards, there is no intention or hidden agenda to introduce mandatory standards for motorcycle clothing in Australia. A rating system on the relative injury protection and thermal management of motorcycle protective clothing is currently being developed for Australia and New Zealand. This is because evidence suggests that rating schemes are more effective than standards for dynamically improving product quality. Who buys a one star car these days?

Finally, on a different point mentioned by your reader, Australia is not ‘in the process of accepting the European standard for helmets’, UNECE 22-05 is a global regulation for motorcycle helmets, not “a European Standardâ€?. Liz de Rome Deakin University Thank you for correcting the comment about the helmet standard, Liz, but I’m afraid the experiment still isn’t convincing for me as it clearly wasn’t for our reader. Caesar’s wife must be seen to be virtuous; experimental results must be seen to be‌ what, common sense? Always assuming they’re not about quantum questions – The Bear COLOUR PREJUDICE

Hey, Bear Motorbikes come in much more interesting and varied and bright colours than cars. Why? Sparky Rossmayne WA Because motorcyclists know how to have fun, PERFECTLY POSITIONED IN SUPREME RIDING COUNTRY

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EXQUIS ITE MORGA N 3-WHE ELER / BORIS: / RIZOMA THE GS / CAFE DEAR, OH DEAR, OH DEAR / PULLO UT MAP: STOP DELIGH TS / POTM: THE LIGHT HORSE HOTEL KIDDIN G AROUN D! / TOAD TOWN TO THE BUSH / OVERCOMIN

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and car drivers don’t. Does anyone out there have any other answers? – The Bear CULTURE SHOCKED STUART

Hi Stuart, I was disappointed to read that Tokyo didn’t meet your expectations when you were in Japan testing the Metzeler Roadtec 01. (An interesting test - I have a BMW R1200GS.) I lived in Tokyo for a total of 6 years a while ago, and have returned to holiday there three times since. I ZLOO DGPLW WKDW ZKHQ ZH Ă€ UVW ZHQW WR -DSDQ LQ RXU Ă€ UVW LPSUHVVLRQV were not good. Like you we saw a sprawling mass of industry and concentrated residential sites, and were initially depressed - culture shock, it’s called. I suppose it’s because the huge population is nearly all crammed into WKH FRXQWU\¡V OLPLWHG Ă DW ODQG DQG LQ particular the Kanto plain in which Tokyo is situated. But after a few months, that backdrop of ugliness disappeared as we learned to appreciate that the beauty of

o yo lies in the detail, and the city s quirkiness, variety, and contradictions came to the fore. All I can say is give the city a second chance: Go there with someone who knows it well and you will discover pleasures and have H[SHULHQFHV WKHUH WKDW \RX ZLOO À QG nowhere else. This is an interesting, and to my mind, accurate representation of Tokyo, the

TIMBERTOWN RESORT & MOTEL Cafe and Restaurant

ost Liveable ity, 2016 : https:// PRQRFOH FRP À OP DIIDLUV PRVW liveable-city-2016-tokyo/ George Spence Bowral NSW Hi George, Yes, the Roadtec 01 are certainly great tyres. Yes, I was hit with culture shock that’s for sure, but you are right, I’d have to spend a lot

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more time there to experience what I was hoping Japan to be and the video explains D ORW , ZDV JLYLQJ P\ À UVW WLPH EULHI YLVLW H[SHULHQFH EHFDXVH , WKLQN D ORW RI RWKHU SHRSOH ZRXOG SUREDEO\ IHHO WKH VDPH Cheers, Stuart. ON THE ROAD AGAIN

Howdy Having just relaunched my road biking muse after 20 years off (still kept a trusty XL250RC in the shed IRU WKH RFFDVLRQDO UHPLQLVFH , À QG to my surprise and delight that the Bear is still riding and writing. I was a passionate subscriber to Bike Australia back in the day and read every word on its pages. I’m enjoying a similar vibe from your 100 odd pages and the trip and tour stories are particularly inspiring. I would like to see some more critical comparisons though when road reviewing the bikes , they read a little like advertorials that the manufacturers may have paid for? A case in point from issue 39 reviewing the Triumph Street Twin and the

[Kawasaki] W800 in one issue without any direct comparison. I would have thought these 2 machines are in the same market and that prospective buyers (eg myself !) of a retro /naked mid-size $13k-ish twin would like to see your opinions voiced as a direct comparison. Meanwhile I’m loving my 2008 Honda Hornet 600 for the Adelaide Hills and beyond; it’s by far the best of the 6 bikes I’ve owned . I still love the hard copy mag format and the enticing cover pics, keep up the good work. Regards, Hugh Hugh Armstrong Stirling, SA Hello, Hugh, and I’m pleased to welcome \RX EDFN WR WKH UDQNV RI DFWLYH ULGHUV $V IRU \RXU ´DGYHUWRULDOµ DFFXVDWLRQ ZDVK \RXU W\SLQJ À QJHUV ZLWK VRDS :H GR XVH ELWV RI WKH PDQXIDFWXUHUV· PDWHULDO ² LQFOXGLQJ VRPH WHFKQLFDO VSHFLÀ FDWLRQV DQG SKRWRV ² but we always tell you the truth as we see LW ,I ZH GLGQ·W ZH·G EH IRXQG RXW SUHWW\

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TXLFNO\ $V IRU FRPSDULVRQV LW·V IDLUHU LI we consider bikes by themselves. You will KDYH QRWLFHG WKDW ZH GR UXQ TXLWH D IHZ FRPSDULVRQV EXW ZHOO DIWHU WKH ELNHV KDYH EHHQ UHOHDVH ,Q IDFW WKH FRPSDUR \RX·YH DVNHG IRU LV SRVVLEO\ FRPLQJ XS VRRQ ² 7KH %HDU TEXAS TUCKER TIME

I’m just reading No.3 and saw your reference to Texas, we ate there yesterday!! Peter Colwell Dubbo NSW -XVW IRU DQ\RQH ZKR GRHVQ·W NQRZ ZKDW 3HWHU LV RQ DERXW WKLV ZDV 7H[DV LQ 4XHHQVODQG DQG , ZDV PRDQLQJ DERXW VRPH DZIXO GULQNV EDFN LQ WKH 'DUN $JHV 2EYLRXVO\ WKLQJV DUH EHWWHU QRZ 7KH %HDU

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Great coffee, award winning breakfasts, friendly service and a locally inspired menu sets this fabulous cafe apart. Come in and see why we are the region’s most awarded café/restaurant! Bent on Food Café and Regional Food Store 95 Isabella Street Wingham NSW 2429 p 02 6557 0727 www.bentonfood.com.au Find us on facebook

SHORT ADELAIDE TOURS ON BENELLI BN600Rs Don’t have much time? We lead one-day or shorter tours on some of the best roads in the Barossa Valley, Adelaide Hills and Fleurieu Peninsula. Hire exciting BN600R Benellis. Visit www.radtours.com.au and click on the TOUR LOCATIONS button. 106

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NE WBIKEPRICES ew motorcycle prices go up, they go down. It can be hard to keep N track of all the changes. Australian Motorcyclist Magazine supplies you with all the latest up to date prices

APRILIA

DB11 BB3 DB8 OroNero

www.aprilia.com.au ROAD RS4 125 RS4 125 SBK Shiver Sport 750 ABS Dorsoduro 750 ABS Dorsoduro Factory ABS Mana 850 Automatic Tuono V4 1100 RR Tuono V4 1100 Factory RSV4 RR RSV4 RR Race Pack RSV4 RF LE Dorsoduro 1200 ABS ADV SPORT Caponord 1200 ABS Caponord 1200 Rally SCOOTERS Sportcity One 125 SR MT 125 Mojito 125 Scarabeo 200 ie Sportcity Cube 300 Sportcity 300 Street Scarabeo 300 ie SR Max 300 Scarabeo 500 ie SRV850

$5100 $6250 $12,990 $11,990 $15,690 $15,990 $23,000 $25,000 $25,000 $31,000 $31,000 $13,990 $21,490 $24,000 $2990 $3290 $4990 $4850 $6290 $6290 $6490 $6490 $8490 $14,990

BENELLI

www.benelli.com.au ROAD BN 302 Leoncino BN600i BN600S BN600GT BN600GTS BN600R BN600RS TnT 899 TnT 1130 R Tre-K 1130 ADV TOURING Tre-K Amazonas

from all the manufacturers currently in the country. Things like special deals, cashbacks, factory discounts and bonuses are ZKDW \RX·OO ÀQG %HDU LQ PLQG

$5590 $TBA $8990 $8990 $8990 $8990 $9990 $9990 $16,990 $22,690 $18,490 $19,690

$56,990 $72,888 $84,990

BMW

www.bmwmotorrad.com.au ROAD G 310 R F 800 R F 800 GT S 1000 R S 1000 RR R Nine T R 1200 R R 1200 R Sport R 1200 R Exclusive R 1200 RS R 1200 RS Exclusive R 1200 RT K 1300 R K 1300 S K 1300 S Motorsport K 1600 GT K 1600 GT Sport K 1600 GTL K 1600 GTL Exclusive ADV SPORT S 1000 XR ADV TOURING G 650 GS G 650 GS Sertao F 700 GS F 700 GS LS F 800 GS F 800 GS LS F 800 GSA R 1200 GS R 1200 GSA SCOOTER C 600 Sport C 600 Sport SE C 650 GT C 650 GT SE C 650 GT SE LS

$TBA $13,100 $16,300 $19,290 $22,990 $21,250 $21,950 $22,350 $22,350 $22,950 $23,250 $30,790 $21,990 $23,990 $28,990 $35,990 $36,490 $37,590 $42,500 $22,190 $9990 $10,990 $12,890 $13,140 $16,690 $16,940 $18,650 $21,950 $24,550 $13,990 $15,090 $14,990 $16,665 $16,465

www.bimotaaustralia.com.au ROAD DB5R DB10 DB9 DB9 S Tesi 3D Naked Tesi Race Café

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$2999 $3999

CF MOTO

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$2690 $2190 $5990 $7990 $3990 $4190

CONFEDERATE MOTORCYCLES

www.confederate.com.au ROAD X132 Hellcat X132 Hellcat Combat X132 Hellcat Speedster R131 Fighter R135 Wraith Combat

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DAELIM

www.daelim.com.au ROAD VJF250 SCOOTER Bbone Besbi S1

$4490 $3490 $2190 $3290

SCOOTER GP1 250

$6299

DUCATI

CAN-AM (BRP)

www.ducati.com.au

www.brp.com

*All prices are ride away ROAD Spyder RS SM5

$23,990 $23,990 $25,790 $28,890 $25,490 $28,990 $31,490 $39,990 $41,990

www.derbinoz.com.au

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BIMOTA

Spyder RS S Red SE5 Spyder RS S Wht SE5 F3S SM5 F3S SE5 Spyder ST S SE5 Spyder ST Ltd SE5 Spyder RT SM6 Spyder RT S SE6 Spyder RT Ltd SE6

DERBI

BRAAAP

ROAD Street Superlite 125 Mercury

all prices (unless indicated) exclude dealer and on road costs and some prices may have changed at the last minute as we went to the printer.

$19,990

ROAD Scrambler Sixty2 Scrambler Icon (Red) Scrambler Icon (Yellow)

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Scrambler Classic Scrambler Urban Enduro Scrambler Full Throttle Scrambler Flat Track Pro Hypermotard Red Hypermotard Black Hyperstrada Monster 821 Dark Monster 821 Red Monster 821 White Monster 821 Stripes Panigale 959 Red Panigale 959 White Hypermotard SP Monster 1200 Monster 1200 S Red Monster 1200 S White Monster 1200 R Red Monster 1200 R Black Diavel Dark Diavel Carbon XDiavel XDiavel S Panigale 1299 Panigale 1299 S Panigale R ADV TOURING Multistrada 1200 Red Multistrada 1200 S Red Multistrada 1200 S White Multi 1200 Enduro Red Multi Enduro Wht or Gry Multi 1200 S Pikes Peak

$15,490 $15,490 $15,490 $16,990 $16,990 $17,290 $17,990 $16,490 $16,990 $17,290 $17,990 $19,990 $20,490 $21,490 $19,990 $24,490 $24,790 $27,490 $27,990 $24,490 $30,490 $27,490 $32,490 $27,990 $35,490 $46,990 $23,990 $28,490 $28,990 $29,990 $30,290 $34,990

HARLEY-DAVIDSON www.harley-davidson.com

* All Harley-Davidson prices are ride away CRUISER Street 500 Street 500 SuperLow 883 Iron 883 Seventy-Two Custom 1200 Forty-Eight SuperLow 1200 Roadster Street Bob Low Rider Low Rider S Street Bob Special Wide Glide Fat Bob Switchback Softail Slim Softail Slim S Fat Boy Low Fat Boy Fat Boy S Softail Deluxe Breakout Heritage Softail Classic Road King

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Road Glide Special Street Glide Special Electra Glide Ultra Limited V-Rod Muscle V-Rod Night Rod Special CVO Pro Street Breakout Street Glide Road Glide Ultra Ultra Limited

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HONDA

http://motorcycles.honda.com.au ROAD CB125E CB300F CBR300R CBR300R ABS CB400 ABS CB500F CBR500R ABS CBR600RR CB650FL ABS CB650F ABS CBR650FL ABS CBR650F ABS NC750SA ABS VFR800F CBR1000RR CBR1000RR ABS VFR1200F ABS CTX1300 Goldwing F6B GL1800 Goldwing CRUISER VT400C CTX700NA ABS VT750C Shadow VT1300CXA Fury GL1800 Valkyrie ADV TOURING CB500X NC750XA VFR800X Crossrunner VFR1200X Crosstourer CRF1000 Africa Twin CRF1000 Africa Twin ABS CRF1000 Africa Twin DCT SCOOTER NSC110 Dio MW110 Benly PCX150 NSS300A Forza

$2299 $5699 $5249 $5749 $10,499 $7899 $8099 $14,999 $9999 $9999 $10,499 $10,599 $9299 $15,199 $16,999 $17,799 $17,799 $19,499 $27,299 $37,999 $9799 $9999 $12,299 $15,999 $21,999 $7999 $9599 $15,099 $18,299 $15,499 $16,999 $17,999 $2799 $3299 $4499 $7499

HUNTER

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$6990 $6990 $7299

HUSQVARNA

www.husqvarnamotorcycles.com.au ROAD 701 Supermoto

$TBA

HYOSUNG

www.hyosung.com.au ROAD GT650RL CRUISER GV650SL GTV650C

$7690 $8250 $8250

INDIAN

www.indianmotorcycles.com.au *All Indian Motorcycle prices are ride away CRUISER Scout Sixty $15,995 Scout $17,995 Chief Dark Horse $26,995 Chief Classic $28,995 Chief Vintage $31,495 6SULQJÀHOG Chieftain Dark Horse $34,995 Chieftain $35,995 Chief Roadmaster $38,995

KAWASAKI

www.kawasaki.com.au ROAD Z125 Pro Z250SL Z250SL ABS Z300 ABS Ninja 300 Ninja 300 SE KRT Ninja 300 ABS Ninja 300 SE KRT ABS ER-6n/nL ABS Versys 650/L ABS Ninja 650/L ABS Ninja ZX-6R Ninja ZX-6R 636 ABS Ninja ZX-6R 636 KRT W800 SE Z800 ABS Z1000 ABS SE Ninja 1000 ABS Ninja ZX-10R Ninja ZX-10R ABS Ninja ZX-10R Winter Ninja ZX-14R ABS Ninja ZX-14R ABS Ohlins 1400GTR ABS H2 CRUISER Vulcan S ABS Vulcan S ABS Café Vulcan 900 Classic Vulcan 900 Custom

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Vulcan 1700 Classic ABS Vulcan 1700 Vaquero ABS ADV TOURING KLR650 KLR650 Camo Versys 1000 ABS

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KTM

www.ktm.com.au ROAD 390 Duke 690 Duke 690 Duke R 690 SMC R 1290 Super Duke R 1290 Super Duke R SE 1290 Super Duke GT ADV TOURING 690 Enduro R 1050 Adventure 1190 Adventure 1190 Adventure R 1290 Super Adventure

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KYMCO

kymco.com.au ROAD CK 125 CRUISER Venox 250 SCOOTER Super 8 125 Like 125 Espresso 150 Like 200 Downtown 300i ABS

$2095 $5295 $2595 $2995 $2799 $3395 $7495

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MV AGUSTA

www.mvagusta.com.au ROAD Brutale 675 F3 675 Brutale 800 Brutale 800 RR Brutale 800 Dragster Brutale 800 Dragster RR Dragster RR LH44 F3 800 F3 800 RC Stradale 800 Turismo Veloce 800 Turismo Veloce Lusso 800 Brutale 1090 Brutale 1090 RR Brutale 1090 Corsa F4 F4 RR F4 RC

$15,799 $18,699 $18,699 $19,999 $20,499 $23,499 $36,880 $19,999 $23,490 $19,999 $20,499 $23,499 $19,999 $22,999 $27,999 $24,499 $33,999 $55,880

www.frasermotorcycles.com.au Commando 961 Sport Commando 961 Café Commander 961 SF

$29,990 $33,990 $35,990

PGO

www.pgo-scooter.com SCOOTER Ligero 150 X Hot 150

$3590 $3990

$4750 $4990 $5290 $6990

www.motoguzzi.com.au $12,490 $12,990 $14,990 $16,500 $16,500 $16,500 $19,490 $23,500 $24,000 $21,490

www.piaggio.com.au *Some Piaggio prices are ride away SCOOTER Typhoon 125 Fly 150 3V Liberty S 150 3V Yourban 300 BV 350 Sport Touring X10 350 X10 500

$2790 $3490 $3790 $9790 $8190 $9490 $9,990

ROYAL ENFIELD

ZZZ UR\DOHQÀHOG FRP DX ROAD Classic 350 Bullet 500 Classic 500 Classic Chrome Continental GT Himalayan

SUZUKI

www.suzukimotorcycles.com.au ROAD Inazuma 250 TU250X DR-Z400SM GSX-R600 SV650 GSX650F/LAMS GSR750 GSX-R750 GSX-S1000 GSX-S1000F GSX-R1000 GSF1250S Bandit ABS GSX1250FA GSX1300R Hayabusa CRUISER VL250 Intruder VL650 S40 VL800 C50T VZ800 M50 VZ1500 C90T VLR1800T C109RT VZR1800 M109R VZR1800 M109R Blk ADV TOURING DR200S DR650SE DL650 V-Strom DL650 V-Strom LAMS DL650 V-Strom XT DL650 V-Strom XT LAMS DL1000 V-Strom SCOOTER UK110 Address AN200A Burgman ABS AN650A Burgman ABS

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SYM

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PIAGGIO

MOTO GUZZI ROAD V7 II Stone V7 II Special V7 II Racer V7 II Stornello LE V9 Bobber V9 Roamer Griso 1200 SE CRUISER Calfornia 1400 Audace California 1400 Eldorado California 1400 Custom

$24,490 $26,500 $TBA

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LARO

ROAD R11 250 Venom 350 CRUISER Cruiser 350 Pro Street 350

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$6490 $7250 $7550 $7750 $8250 $TBA

SCOOTER Orbit 125 Classic 125 VS 150 Symphony 150 HD Evo 200 CityCom 300i Firenze 300

$2499 $2499 $2999 $2999 $4699 $5999 $6299

TGB

www.tgbscooters.com.au SCOOTER X-Race 150 Bullet 150 BellaVita 300i Xmotion 250

$3690 $3990 $6390 $6390

TORINO www.torinomotorcycles.com.au CRUISER Veloce 250

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TRIUMPH www.triumphmotorcycles.com.au *Some Triumph prices are ride away ROAD Street Triple 660 Street Triple ABS Street Triple R Street Triple RX Daytona 675 ABS Daytona 675R Bonneville Street Twin Bonneville T120 Black Bonneville T120 Thruxton Thruxton R Tiger Sport (new) Speed Triple S Speed Triple R Speed Triple SE 94 Speed Triple SE 94 R Trophy SE CRUISER America Speedmaster Thunderbird Storm ABS Thunderbird Nightstorm Thunderbird Commander Thunderbird Comm TT Thunderbird Comm LT Thunderbird Comm LT TT Rocket III Roadster ABS Rocket III Touring ABS ADV TOURING Tiger 800 XR Tiger 800 XRX/L Tiger 800 XRT Tiger 800 XC Tiger 800 XCX/L Tiger 800 XCA Explorer 1200 ABS Explorer 1200 Wire Wheel Explorer 1200 XRx Explorer 1200 XCx

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SCOOTER Primavera 125 3V Primavera 150 3V Sprint 150 3V Sprint 150 3V SE GTS 150 3V PX150 PX150 Touring 946 Bellissima 946 Armani GTS250ie FL GTS300 Super GTS300 Super Sport

VICTORY www.victorymotorcycles.com.au *All Victory prices are ride away CRUISER Vegas 8 Ball Gunner Highball Highball Flame Judge Hammer 8 Ball Boardwalk Boardwalk Red Hammer S Hammer S LE Jackpot Red Jackpot Orange Cross Roads Classic Cross Country Cross Country Ness Cross Country Tour Cross Country Tour 2-Tone Magnum Vision Tour

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BE AR F A C E D

THE CONDITION OF MUZAK (THANKS, MICHAEL MOORCOCK)

W

alter Pater wrote in 1886 that “all art constantly aspires to the condition of musicâ€?. What if it isn’t just art, but our lives as well? It’s an interesting analogy, even if it is nothing like what Pater meant when he wrote about Renaissance painting. Let’s consider our lives as being determined by three aspects, like a musical performance: the instrument is the world you were born into; the musical notation is your personal talents and limitations; and the measure of the music (as in, say, allegro ma non troppo) is the full set of cultural instructions and expectations which are meant to control ZKDW \RX GR ZLWK WKH Ă€ UVW WZR ,W LV QRW WRR GLIĂ€ FXOW WR GHVFULEH ZKDW happens in your life in these terms. You (the musician) try to make the most of the world (your instrument) in which \RX Ă€ QG \RXUVHOI XVLQJ \RXU WDOHQWV WKH notation) while going by the rules (the measure) that society issues. The trouble is that if you do that in our time, what you are more likely to be aspiring to is the condition of muzak, not music. Work, consume and die – and conform while you’re doing so. Be alert but not alarmed. Allegro ma non troppo. But there is a kind of music that exists without measure. Unmeasured preludes for harpsichord started appearing as long ago as 1650, and Louis Couperin is usually FUHGLWHG DV WKH Ă€ UVW composer to write them. You still have an instrument, of course, and you still get the notes, but how you play them – how long you hold them, and at what speed they follow each other – is up to you.

Let me suggest to you that unmeasured preludes for our lives are becoming more and more important in our excessively conformist and somewhat sad world as it spirals ever deeper into the beige. And of course (you knew this was coming, didn’t you?) motorcycling is an important part of the unmeasured preludes of our lives. Some time ago there was a whiny diatribe about the risks of motorcycling in the “Hecklerâ€? column of the Sydney Morning Herald. It expressed the opinions of much of the general public very well; they don’t like us and are too intimidated to take chances themselves and cannot understand those who do. This is the dominant paradigm; we are surrounded by lives that are constantly aspiring to the condition of muzak. But are we risk-takers dismayed? Well yes, we are a bit actually. It wouldn’t matter if the serial cardigans (thank you for that expression, Brother Boris) of the bureaucracy would just stick to worrying about their own lives; their own calm, sedate and repetitive tunes. But they won’t. Spurred on by shrunken souls like the SMH heckler, they intrude on our wild songs. Be afraid. The hobbling bourgeoisie and the bought-off workers are giving the bureaucrats more and more power. Power to run your and my life for us. Isn’t it odd that this should be happening in a country that prides itself on being free? Free? Look at the British. They blow up speed cameras and get them, or what’s left of them, removed. Look at the Americans. They don’t even allow speed cameras to be installed because they are against their Bill of 5LJKWV 7KHVH SHRSOH Ă€JKW and as a result they are free.

We, on the other hand, don’t and aren’t. We whinge for a while, playing the role of victim, and then give in. We don’t even remember how we have been insulted and enslaved when it comes to election time, and we put the same people who have shafted us back into power. Resist. Challenge and defeat the dominant paradigm. Attacks on our chosen recreation are nothing less than attacks on freedom itself. Yes, all right, I know that all sounds a bit dramatic. But‌ do you want to look back at some time in your dotage at a world so sanitised that it’s barely worth living in and think, “if only we’d made a stand then, this would not have happenedâ€?? The British and the Americans don’t have to say that, because they stood up to the overbearing authorities at the time. How does that old saw about resistance go? “They came for the smokers but I did not stand up for them because I had been told that their behaviour was bad for everyone around. They came for the drinkers and I did not stand up for them because I had been convinced that drink did nothing but create danger on the roads, and wife beaters. So when they came for us motorcyclists, there was no one left to stand up for us.â€? Stand up now. Join an activist motorcycle club, or even more importantly write to your State and Federal MPs and the Senators. Defend yourselves, or die in the trenches to the sounds of muzak. Oh, and you might be interested to know that even the company that owns the name “Muzakâ€? has dumped it because it did not have “the connotation that suggested that we have come a long wayâ€?. Even Muzak despises muzak. Peter “The Bearâ€? Thoeming

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BOR IS

GONE OUTBACK I

have just returned from a ride to $OLFH 6SULQJV ,W¡V WKH Ă€ UVW WLPH I’ve been there. Each time I’ve got to Port Augusta, I’ve just kept heading west instead of chucking a right. More fool me. Here I was expecting loads of nothing. What I got was one of the best rides of my life and some of the most vividly jaw-dropping scenery Australia can provide. And I have several confessions to make. I was riding pretty quickly for almost the whole way. This proved to be problematical between Glendambo roadhouse and Coober Pedy, a distance of 254km. Ordinarily, that kind of range is easily doable on a Victory Magnum or an Indian Classic. But you need to be cruising. I was not cruising. I was engaged in a throttle-pinning exercise of epic proportions with three other worthies. So it was a question of honour. And there was a kangaroo involved earlier in the day. So I was sore and smelly, and viewed variously by my companions as either a dead-man riding, some kind of undead zombie, or the risen Christ. You see, 160km out of Port Augusta I

hit a hopping shit-rat at 180km/h and I did not die. No, I do not know why I did not die. I certainly should have died, or at the very least have been maimed and on life-support for the rest of my life. But it did not happen like that. Instead, the beast literally exploded when the Victory Magnum centre-punched it. The bike shook itself like a bison, and then I just rolled majestically to a halt some 400metres after the impact with the mangled roo carcass draped, UDWKHU PDJQLÀ FHQWO\ DWRS WKH front mudguard. I was covered in shit. I was also covered in gore. And both my thighs and the middle of my back (they have a long and thick tail those things) are still bruised a fortnight later. But the bike stopped upright and I did not die, and that is the main thing. It would serve no good purpose for me to die in such a way in the Outback. Sure, there’s the insurance money, but an ignominious Death by Bounding Marsupial is a crappy way to go. What glory is there in that? Happily I was able to continue, because there happened to be a spare bike in the back of a truck that was following us. This was, after all, the fabled Ian Moss Back to Darwin ride put on by Polaris. So I got on that and on I rode. And I was very pleased I did, because the Outback needs to be done on a bike. I could have climbed onto the tour bus, or into one of the support cars, and nursed my battered body with cold beer and soft lounges for the remaining 900km to Darwin. But that’s no way to see the Outback, is it? On a bike you’re an integral part of that vast and amazing space. You are washed by the same wind that blows

over the endless plains and ancient rock formations. You are in it and part of it – a fast-moving speck in an ancient immensity bounded only by the curve of the horizon and your fuel range – which, I might add goes from some 260-plus-km (either on the Victory or the Indian) per tank, to about 180km when you’ve wound the speedo all the way to the other side of the dial. The only chance you have of getting from Glendambo to Coober Pedy is to slow down. Or you could carry a can of petrol. Or you could try slip-streaming your mate – which is lots of fun, but I found the constant adrenalin dump rather tiring. The other alternative is to hold your throttle to the stop until the fuel light comes on and then back off, which is what I decided was best practice. 7KH À QDO NP LQWR &RREHU 3HG\ was done at about 80km. The fuel light came on about 60km out and I literally halved my speed. The road rises as you near Coober Pedy. You know you’re getting close because the land around you starts to look like a million groundhogs have been making conical piles of dirt. It’s all rather surreal – a manmade redesign of the Outback, if you will. It didn’t really bother me on an environmental level. There is a lot of Outback out there. It’s OK if we dig up some of it in search of riches with which to buy whores and alcohol. As I hit that long rise, I started to imagine the Indian was beginning to miss in its search for fuel. It wasn’t, but how could it have any juice left? Surely there was nothing in that beautiful black tank but the vapours of long-dead dinosaurs? I put 20.5 litres into a 20.8 litre tank a few minutes later. If the servo had been at the other end of town I would have had to push the Indian. And I was in no state to do that. Do the Outback. Just mind the ’roos.

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JINDABYNE 10KM

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LIMESTONE BAZZA!

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tarting from the middle of Benambra, head south east riding along Limestone Road making sure you veer left a couple of kays out of town to continue on Limestone Road. From here you basically follow Limestone Road until its end, turning left onto Snowy River Road. Follow Snowy River Road north, through Suggan Buggan, across the border into New South Wales where you’re

now on the Barry Way. Again, you basically follow Barry Way all the way to the roundabout at Jindabyne, but make sure you stop at Wallace Craigie Lookout for a rest and/or the scenery. These are basic directions, but then again this is a pretty easy route to follow. Once you’ve read these, you can pretty much ‘follow your nose’ and you won’t get lost – nine times out of ten.

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COLLECT THEM ALL

Enjoy, pack for the time of year and don’t forget to check the road conditions! Total distance – 180km Time – Around 4-5 hours (due to sightseeing along the way) Road conditions - Snowy River Shire Depot Reception on 02 6451 1000

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