56 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — SEPTEMBER 2011
RETAIL DIARY I’m not sure about anyone else, but summer has flown by for me. It feels as though we only just unpacked our summer collections and now we’re simpering happily over the sea of autumn/winter deliveries arriving at a speed of knots. Where did the summer go? The answer, I think, is in “sale”. One of the reasons the season has seemed to just disappear is that high street and large online retailers went to sale so incredibly early. It was “new summer stock in now” and then moments later “huge reductions off all summer stock”. Speedy. Of course, I understand the goal of early sales and I’m happy to learn that many did make a positive impact to overall takings, but it’s not the easiest strategy for small independents to keep up with. Receiving stock slightly later than larger stores, and then shortening the selling window each season, has a huge impact. Without a doubt, it means dedicating more time and thought than ever before on when to go to sale, what products to include, how to mark down and what to do from there to keep your customers happy when the cut prices are gone. And more than that, how to keep the store (online or physical) fresh and interesting for your customers. Quite the challenge. It is difficult but, if you can get it right, it’s satisfying to find the balance of working with loyal customers to making the most of your short selling window before dipping in (slightly later than everyone else) to reductions. When we do go to sale, our customers know it will be worth the wait – not the scandalous 10 per cent off we saw in some big high street stores. Our customers expect too much and are too price-comparison-savvy now to tolerate a token reduction. We try to make sure that, for our semi-annual sales, reductions are significant and leave customers happy they snagged the bargain they might have been eyeing up all summer long. And with that, it’s “farewell summer” and on to the next…
FORUM —
RETAIL FORUM
Unconditional has unveiled its Northern flagship store with an exclusive VIP launch party hosted by DJ Jodie Harsh.
END OF AN ERA FOR GENE SUTCLIFFE Later this year, key independent retailer Gene Sutcliffe will retire after 42 years running her eponymous womenswear store in Accrington, Lancashire. The store began life as a corner shop 70 years ago before expanding over 10 adjacent cottages. Stocking labels including James Lakeland, Oui and Passport, the store will be left in the capable hands of daughter Caroline for the time being. “I have loved working with all our suppliers, staff and customers,” says Sutcliffe. “I may do a bit of consultancy here and there, so there is a chance you’ll see me on the circuit from time to time.” —
Head designer Philip Stephens returned to his Manchester roots with the label’s first regional store. The new store concept includes eccentric installations, catwalk images and vivid splashes of colour. Unconditional designs are known for their “London” attitude, fusing together edginess with ease and simplicity. Ethical materials are used to create striking silhouettes, with a focus on detail, which were well received at London Fashion Week. —
Fiona Kennedy, owner, Red Ruby Rouge, Belfast www.redrubyrouge.co.uk
HAVE YOU OPENED A NEW STORE, LAUNCHED A TRANSACTIONAL WEBSITE, ORGANISED AN EVENT OR HAVE ANY OTHER IN-STORE NEWS? THEN LET US KNOW BY GETTING IN TOUCH AT CAREY@RAS-PUBLISHING.COM.
We ask four retailers this month’s hot question
ARE YOU PART OF THE J.CREW? American high street label J.Crew has launched its first transactional UK website with a complete offer of women’s, men’s and children’s clothing. A favourite of First Lady Michelle Obama, the brand is valued at $3bn and aims to fill the gap between the high street and designer labels. Offering apparel, cashmere, bags, shoes and a bridal collection, the website – www.jcrew.com – is sleek and easy to navigate and offers a flat p&p rate of £9.95. —
Ted Baker launched its first Pashion boutique outside London in July at The Avenue at Manchester’s Spinningfields. The salon-style store measures 2,500 sq ft and reflects the aesthetics of the luxurious collection with silk walls, mirrored detailing and oakwood flooring. Design features include an installation created using different bits of mid-century furniture and a string art pattern displayed behind glass on the cash desk, bringing a touch of retro-cool. The boutique will showcase limited edition designs from the Langley collection, which is described as “the embodiment of feminine sophistication with a series of opulent detailing and digital prints”. —
WHAT WAS THE DEFINING MOMENT IN YOUR CAREER?
REGIONAL EXPANSION FOR UNCONDITIONAL
The latest news from the industry —
PASHION FOR TED BAKER
FORUM —
57 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — SEPTEMBER 2011
MY FAVOURITE SHOP... THE VILLAGE BICYCLE by Lauren Martin, senior account manager, Blow
KAREN SHAW Owner, Galerie, Staffordshire — “The launch night of Love KR last year was the defining moment. To finally start my own business in the industry I love was an amazing feeling.” —
“Somewhere that recently took my breath away was The Village Bicycle in Notting Hill. I can now say it’s one of my firm favourites, mainly due to the decadence that exudes from every orifice. Inspired by 60s vintage store Granny Takes a Trip, the décor is just as eclectic as the mix of brands that line the walls. Felder & Felder, Lulu Guinness and Craig Lawrence sit harmoniously side by side, while other random goods such as sunglasses, sweets and stickers are also available to purchase, meaning, regardless of your budget, you’ll be able to walk away with at least one fabulous thing.”
PAULA FITZPATRICK Owner, Love KR, Kensal Rise, London
JENNY LOCKTON Owner, Bohemia, Edinburgh
— “I worked in Morocco 10 years ago, and I loved working with artisan craftsmen and women. The success of the goods we import from Morocco means I am looking to wholesale our own Bohemia brand products.” —
— “Through opening Belle & Bunty, we were suddenly able to meet our customers face-to-face and gain instant reactions and feedback on the collections. For us, the customer is the focus of our design process.” —
ALICE SHREEVE Co-owners, Belle & Bunty, London
79-81 Ledbury Road London W11 2AG Owners: Willa Keswick Opened: 2011 Brands: Vintage, Mark Fast, Todd Lynn, Bodyamr and Felder Felder
— “The local newspaper has a ‘What are you wearing?’ feature asking people what their favourite store is, and hearing my own store mentioned is always a great feeling.” —