4 minute read

A Guide to Wooden Floors

1

By Katherine Sorrell

Advertisement

A Guide to Wooden Floors

Laminate or solid, engineered or reclaimed, timber flooring is a classic choice that works in every room of the house. It’s less cold and hard on the feet than stone or tiles, better at repelling stains than carpet and is endlessly good-looking, whether in a period property or a new home.

Preparing for a new timber floor

Timber floors can be fitted anywhere in the house, on solid or suspended floors, although – because wood expands and contracts according to humidity – they’re often not advised for bathrooms or other wet areas. In this case, it’s best to stick to highquality engineered wood. Insulate the sub-floor before you start, and consider what effect the new flooring will have on your final floor level – which may affect thresholds and require doors to be cut across the bottom so they will open and close. When fixing the boards down, make sure to avoid any pipes and wires that run beneath the existing floor. To keep your final floorcovering pristine, avoid fitting it until all the ‘wet’ or dirty building work is complete.

What type of timber floor?

Laminate floorboards are usually made from a resin-impregnated decorative paper surface layer (with photographs of real wood), bonded to a thin MDF or chipboard core. With cheap versions it can be easy to spot the pattern repeat , and they’re not especially durable, but more expensive brands are very tough and come with long guarantees. Solid wood is exactly that – whatever type of wood it is composed of goes all the way through the board, so it looks and feels entirely natural and can be sanded again and again. Engineered wood (sometimes called multi-layer or, confusingly, laminated) is made from layers of solid timber or a veneer of solid timber on top of MDF, plywood, chipboard or softwood, with a balancing veneer beneath. Most are made up of either three or five layers, cross-bonded for greater stability. A top layer of at least 5mm allows for limited sanding if necessary. The advantage of engineered boards over solid ones is that they shouldn’t warp, gap, cup or bow. Reclaimed boards have a beautiful patina that simply can’t be replicated, and are the environmentally friendly option. They don’t come cheap, as they often require work to remedy problems such as woodworm, ingrained dirt and stains, dents and splits, variations in thickness or colour, broken

tongue and groove, and lots of old nails. When buying, always ask where the wood came from and how it’s been stored since it was reclaimed – timber that has stood outside for any length of time may be useless, and would need to dry out considerably before it could be used again. As a rule of thumb, pine is cheaper than oak, and narrower boards are cheaper than wider ones.

Style and finish

Most timber floors sold in the UK are made from European oak, which has a lovely grain and is very long-lasting. There are, however, many other choices, including beech, maple, ash, walnut, merbau, cherry and, of course, pine. As for finishes, options include stains, waxes, oils, varnishes and limewashes, each of which can subtly change the appearance of the final floor. An important consideration is the form and laying pattern of the boards. Both solid and engineered wood flooring is available as boards (in varying widths), strips (less than 10cm wide), smallish blocks (extremely strong) and parquet (like blocks, but thinner). While boards are traditionally laid parallel to one another, designers are increasingly turning to the contemporary effect of chevron and herringbone styles, while parquet has had something of a renaissance in recent years, with intricately patterned squares that look glamorous and dramatic.

3 2

LOOKING AFTER A WOODEN FLOOR

Wood floors don’t need a great deal of special treatment. The main thing to remember is not to let them get too wet, to install a good doormat and take off stilettos, which will punch small holes everywhere. Remove dust and grit regularly by vacuuming or cleaning with a soft broom. Mop occasionally, but don’t soak the wood or leave water sitting on it – wring the mop head as much as possible, then wipe over again with a dry mop. Using a proprietary cleaning product will make your floor look better and last longer – ask your retailer for advice. And don’t forget that a new wooden floor will naturally become darker or lighter as it matures.

1 Floorboards laid in a chevron pattern create a stylish base for a sophisticated room scheme.

Lottie grand sofa in Isla Kingfisher with darkened oak legs, £2,425; Brompton reading floor lamp in brass, £350; Matilda armchair in Imogen Holkham

Sand with pale oak legs, £795; Keswick square coffee table, £500; all Neptune: www.neptune.com. 2 This reclaimed teak, available in randomwidth planks, has been repaired and stained.

Woodworks by Ted Todd Rare Finds Dark

Colonial Teak, £POA, Ted Todd: 01925 284 496; tedtodd.co.uk.

3 A white-oil finish creates a clean, fresh look in this bright entrance hall. Oak White oiled brushed wood flooring, £72 per square metre,

The Natural Wood Floor Company: 020 8871 9771; naturalwoodfloor.co.uk.

104 Ampthill Road, Shefford, Beds SG17 5BB

This article is from: