Niagara Falls

Travel

Niagara Falls By Solange Hando

Straddling the Canada-US border, Niagara is one of the ‘World’s Big Three’, alongside Iguazu and Victoria, and for sheer power and popularity it is top of the list in North America. Draining the waters of Lake Erie into Lake Ontario, the river is only thirty-six miles long but awesome from end to end. The Natives called it ‘Great Thunderer of Waters’, honouring the god dwelling in the cataract. According to historians, the first Europeans to view the Falls were a French explorer and his priest who spoke of waters that “foam and boil in fearful manner”. There was twice as much water in those days, prior to hydro-electricity production, but as you approach the Falls Mother Nature still sends shivers down your spine. Three falls will take your breath away. On the US side are the American Falls and beyond Luna Island the Bridal Veil with the best overall view from the Observation Tower. Then comes Goat Island with its shuddering Cave of the Winds and on the other side the Horseshoe, the biggest fall, 2,600 feet across and almost entirely on Canadian territory. It captures 90% of the water rushing over the ledge and drops 187 feet. How much water over the Falls? Almost enough to fill a million baths a minute, they say, but on March 29th 1848 it all stopped as ice blocked the upper river. This was the first time the Falls were completely frozen, having tumbled and roared ever since the Great Lakes were created at the end of the Ice Age and water carved its way towards the Atlantic. The best panorama is from Canada but cruising below the Falls is stunning from either side: turbulent water, rocks, islands, spray all around, then expect to get really wet (cape provided) when you reach the Horseshoe. It’s exhilarating and a highlight worth queueing for. Other attractions (Canadian side) include a ‘Journey Behind the Falls’ – follow the tunnels and see the Horseshoe plummeting right in front of you – and the Skylon Tower for a bird’s-eye view of the Falls and the legendary Rainbow Bridge between the two countries. Then there are tales of daredevils who challenged Niagara, among them the amazing Blondin who performed myriad antics on a tightrope and sixty-three-year-old schoolteacher Annie Taylor who achieved the first successful barrel jump over the Falls. Tourist facilities are available on both sides but ground adjacent to the Falls has been secured for permanent parkland, with flowers and trees adding their own charm according to season. There’s a State Park on the American side and, along the escarpment in Ontario, a biosphere reserve listed by UNESCO. Meanwhile, beyond the Falls the river follows its course through a dramatic gorge, over six miles long, all rapids and whirlpool, before flowing into Lake Ontario in the pretty town of Niagara on the Lake. Erosion has slowed down in modern times so the Niagara Falls might be with us for another 50,000 years.