Andorra

By Solange Hando

Andorra

Enclosed by the Pyrenees in a narrow valley between France and Spain, the principality of Andorra is one of the smallest states in Europe at just 15 by 18 miles. On the right bank of the Gran Valira, at over 3,000 feet, Andora la Vella is the highest capital, its tall buildings making the most of limited space. But beyond the duty-free shops of Escaldes, mountains and valleys spread across the land, so peaceful and unspoiled, it is nature at its best. Imagine seventy-two peaks in this mini-country, dozens of lakes glistening blue, rivers and wetlands and, for those in the know, fabulous ski slopes in winter and in the bright summer sun wonderful trails rambling from Mediterranean to Alpine zones. Family walks or challenging hikes, this is a well-kept secret, and with so much to explore in summer the only problem is knowing where to start. Rambling, climbing, horse riding, canyoning, fishing, the scenery unfolds all along the trails, catering for different abilities and sometimes joining the long-distance footpaths dotted with mountain shelters. In the south-east, close to the capital, MadriuPerafita-Claror is the country’s second most important river basin and a UNESCO site listed for its cultural landscape. Rising up to 9,530 feet at Portelleta Peak, the park stretches over seven miles and, with no traffic allowed, boasts 70% of Andorra’s 1,500 species of fauna and flora, including rare and endangered specimens. It’s sheer

delight for nature lovers: here a lonely mountain goat perched on a rock, there a family of boars scrounging in the shadows, marmots twittering in the sun, bearded vultures gliding overhead or a tiny goldcrest, ‘King of the Birds’ in local folklore. There’s a wealth of medicinal plants, mushrooms, flowers, trees and shrubs, thriving in their own microclimates according to altitude and soil, on sunny slopes or in the shade. Among the many trails is the ‘Mountain Path’ climbing up the Madriu valley, ‘the Mother River’, towards the distant peaks tackled by mountaineers. But even a morning trek from the capital is full of rewards, though steep in places. First there are fabulous views of the town far below, framed by peaks draped in eternal snow, then beyond the old bridge and foaming rapids is a nostalgic mule trail winding its way up through stones and rocks, as it has done for hundreds of years. At over 5,300 feet, the forlorn settlement of Ramio nestles among pastures and fields dotted with remnants of dry stone walls and huts. Lizards bask on the stones, butterflies flutter here and there then all is quiet until a thunderous roar sends shivers down your spine, the Madriu crashing through fallen branches and trees. But further up, beyond the conifers, the landslides and barren ridges, the valley opens out and the Fontverd refuge greets trekkers with flower meadows, rivulets and pools plus the young Madriu where they can dip their feet in freezing water. At 6,151 feet, it feels like a dream.