Upasana design studio, textile design, nift chennai by Vinay Kumar

GRADUATION PROJECT

SUBMITTED IN PARTIAL FULFILLMENT OF THE GRADUATION REQUIREMENT OF

BACHELOR OF DESIGN (TEXTILE DESIGN)

STUDENT: K.R.Vinay Kumar FACULTY GUIDE: Prof.Dr.M.K.Gandhi SPONSOR: UPASANA DESIGN STUDIO

BATCH 2012 -

2016

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE DESIGN NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY CHENNAI

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

JURY EVALUATION SHEET The evaluation jury recommends ………………………………………………………….. for award of Graduation from National Institute of Fashion Technology, Chennai after evaluating his/ her project ‘…………………………………………………..…..’ and fulfilling the requirements set by institute and jury members.

Mentor’s Signature

Jury Members Name …………………………………………… …………………………………………… …………………………………………… …………………………………………… …………………………………………… …………………………………………… ……………………………………………

Company/ Organization

Centre Coordinator

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Signature ...................................................................................... ...................................................................................... ...................................................................................... ...................................................................................... ...................................................................................... ...................................................................................... ......................................................................................

Remarks: ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………........................................................................................................................ ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………........................................................................................................................ ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………........................................................................................................................

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

Design for a change.

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

PREFACE ABOUT THE GRADUATION PROJECT The graduation project is the final academic project for the student, marking the end of the students academic career at National Institute Of Fashion Technology, Chennai. It is an opportunity for the students to showcase their expertise as independent paractitioners of design. It should reflect though the leadership manifested through creativity and innovation. The project should lead to a new knowledge creation and should align with broarder objectives of the institute. My graduation project, tuya was done at the Upasana Design Studio, consummating in a range of products originating from the leftover fabrics ie; product line of garments and bags by upcycling leftover fabrics.

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT This project is the result of collective effort of various people and iam grateful to each one of them for their support. I am grateful to the Upasana Design studio, for giving me the opportunity to work on my project. My special thanks to Uma Prajapati for her unrelenting mentorship inspiring me , critiquing me and challenging me at every step in bringinging up this project. I Tthank the production team and sampling team for coming to my rescue each time , especially Alli and Dinesh. My special thanks to Prof.Dr.M.K.Gandhi, for guiding me through the project. I thank him for not just the project duratiion but fro the guidance he has offered me throughout my years at NIFT; giving me the freedom to explore and offering new ways to approach design situations in various scenarios and my sincere thanks to Mr. Karthikeyan Balaraman and Ms. Darshini Sundar for being my inspiration and guiding me through the right track.

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

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GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

CONTENTS About N.I.F.T ----About Textile Design Dept ----Brief on Upasana ----Brief on Auroville ---Nature of Business ----Other Projects ----Oganisational structure ----Infrastructure ----Prototyping ----Production ----Product Line ----Product Analysis ----Marketing ----Analysis ----Market Analysis ----Project 1 ----Design Orientation ----Brief ----Market study ----Design Process ----Specification & Costing ----Final Products ----Project 2 ----Design Orientation ----Brief ----Market study ----Design Process ----Specification & Costing ----Final Products ----Conclusion ----Bibliography -----

11 13 15 17 20 23 30 33 34 37 38 40 43 46 48 54 56 57 61 71 106 118 127 128 129 131 140 168 172 183 185

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY National Institute Of Fashion Technology was setup in 1986 under the aegis of the Ministry Of Textiles, Government of India. It has emerged as the premier Institute of Design, Management and Technology, developing professionals for taking up leadership positions in fashion business in the emerging global scenario. NIFT has been granted statutory status under the act of Parliment of India in 2006, empoering the Institute to award degrees and other academic distinctions. It has set and academic standards and excelled in thought leadership by providing a pool of creative genius and technically competent professionals. It offers 7 under graduate courses and 3 post graduate courses, spread over 15 campuses in 15 cities namely Bhopal, Bengaluru, Delhi, Chennai, Mumbai, Hyderabad, Gandhinagar, Shillong, Kangra, Kannur, Kolkata, Jodhpur, Patna, Bhubaneswar, Raebareli.

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

TEXTILE DESIGN The Textile Design Programme at NIFT inculcates user-centric aproach and processes. Responsibility and concern towards the social, physical and ecological environments is emphasized in the process of developing innovative ideas. The Textile Design specialisation offered by the Department of Textile Design equips students with a broad spectrum of education in textiles while developing creativity, originality and design application in apparel and home fashion industries. As a part of the curriculum, every student has to undergo a Graduation Project with an industry or studio for a period of 18 weeks. I had the opportunity to work with a textile studio called Upasana in Auroville, Pondicherry. The brief that was given to me was to design and develop two ranges of hand crafted garments and accessories.

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

UPASANA

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

UPASANA DESIGN STUDIO Founded by Uma Prajapati in 1997, the Upasana Design Studio is situated in Auroville, Puducherry. Our mission is to create conscious sustainable fashion where we are taking care of our environmental cost and not passing it on to the future. For us, design is creative, problem-solving. Upasana was born out of Uma’s twin passions for sustainable clothing and Indian handicraft traditions.Upasana is a sanskrit word , it means sitting near. Following on Sri Aurobindo’s philosophy of Internal Yoga, Upasana believes that success is holistic. For us, design is creative, problem-solving. Any problem, be it post-tsunami trauma, farmer suicides, garbage littering, weavers losing their job, Upasana looks at social issues as a space to exercise for change. Out of these real problems were born the following projects: > Kapas – organic cotton project with families of Madurai > Small Steps – compact bags as an alternative to plastic bags > Varanasi Weavers – a project with the weaving communities of Varanasi > Tsunamka – a tsunami related project providing livelihood to fisherwomen > vParuthi – India’s local organic brand to support India’s organic farming community.

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

AUROVILLE - the city of dawn Auroville is a universal township in the making for a population of up to 50,000 people from around the world. The concept of Auroville - an ideal township devoted to an experiment in human unity - came to the Mother as early as the 1930s. In the mid 1960s the Sri Aurobindo Society in Pondicherry proposed to Her that such a township should be started. In 1966 UNESCO passed a unanimous resolution commending it as a project of importance to the future of humanity, thereby giving their full encouragement. Auroville is located in south India, mostly in the State of Tamil Nadu (some parts are in the State of Puducherry), a few kilometres inland from the Coromandel Coast, approx 150 kms south of Chennai (previously Madras) and 10 kms north of the town of Puducherry. A 109-hectare area to the north of the Peace Area, the Industrial Zone, a zone for “green” industries, is focused on Auroville’s efforts towards a self-supporting township. It will contain small and medium-scale industries, training centres, arts and crafts, and the city’s administration.

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

FOUNDERS Uma Prajapati Uma Prajapati was born in Bodh Gaya, the place where many centuries ago, Gautama Buddha found enlightenment. Trained at the National Institute of Fashion and Technology in New Delhi, she worked with many designers for the European fashion market. In her late/early twenties, the search for a meaningful life brought her to Auroville in 1996. Upasana was born out of Uma’s twin passions for sustainable clothing and Indian handicraft traditions. The company, which is today a leading sustainable fashion business in India, was created in 1997 with an initial investment of Rs. 2000 and a lot of determination. “ I will give you fashion, but I will make it my own way. ” Upasana has allowed Uma to unify her experience and passion to design for a change. She is sought as a role model for the sustainable fashion industry. She has spoken to national and international audiences about the social dimension of the fashion business. Upasana has allowed Uma to unify her experience and passion to design for a change. She is sought as a role model for the sustainable fashion industry. She has spoken to national and international audiences about the social dimension of the fashion business.

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

Manoj Pavitran A product designer from National Institute of Design at Ahmedabad, Manoj moved to Auroville in 1995 to continue his exploration of Sri Aurobindo’s teachings. Along with Uma, he co-founded Upasana to being near and offer his work to the Divine. He laid down the communications framework and designed the architecture of Upasana’s first office. Later, he conceptualized and crafted the ‘Tsunamika’ story along with the idea that became ‘Small Steps’. “ Upasana is unique because it actually applies the consciousness concept in a business setting and that too in a luxury sector like fashion. Consciousness begins with the integrity of the designer and people running the business. Upasana lives the message of social consciousness in the way the products are designed, leftover waste materials are used and how the villagers are empowered. It touches the lives of people involved so that they are nurtured and evolve along with the business too. ” Manoj is now involved in software development for Auroville community and pursues other educational activities where he can apply integral education at university level.

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

NATURE OF BUSINESS The firm specialises in creating a conscious sustainable fashion where environmental aspects are taken care of so that it can be passed on to the future generation as well. Upasana considers social issues as a platform with wide possibities to bring in change.Since its inception, the firm has undertaken several other socially concernd projects and also ventured into e-commerce , started taking part in various trade fairs across india as well as internationl fairs. It is also a active participating member at The Green People of India and allso supports Fair Trade. The other socially responsible projects: Kapas – organic cotton project with families of Madurai Small Steps – compact bags as an alternative to plastic bags Varanasi Weavers – a project with the weaving communities of Varanasi. Tsunamka – a tsunami related project providing livelihood to fisher women. Paruthi – India’s local organic brand to support India’s organic farm ing community.

RETAIL / E-COMMERCE / FAIR PARTICIPATIONS 20

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

TSUNAMIKA

PARUTI

TRANQUEBAR

JANAKI

VARANASI WEAVERS

SMALL STEPS 22

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

OTHER PROJECTS GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

TSUNAMIKA The project started as a trauma counseling effort for the fisherwomen in February 2005, after the tsunami. The initial aim of the project was to help the women of the affected region, overcome the trauma they experienced, by getting them involved in some creative handicraft work which could channelize their energy in a constructive manner. The Tsunamika project has been conceived by Upasana Design Studio, a garment design unit in Auroville, and mobilised in the coastal villages of Aurovilleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bioregion. Tsunmika is also the representating symbol of more than 600 coastal NGOâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s across India.

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

PARUTI – India’s local organic brand With ‘Paruthi’, Upasana decided to go organic in 2011. Upasana has been working with the organic cotton farmers under Kapas project for many years and decided to launch the brand in their support. Paruthi in Tamil means ‘cotton’. ‘Paruthi’ is the result of a sustainable business collaborative striving to protect and promote the fragile cotton communities of Tamil Nadu. Failed crops, increased competition, and unfair business practices have driven thousands of cotton farmers and weavers to despair. ‘Paruthi’ line of clothing is made using only the most ethical practices for the earth and the cotton communities of rural India. It has taken a fashion route to sustainibility and successfully launched a clothing line under “Responsible Fashion”.

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

TRANQUEBAR â&#x20AC;&#x201C; land of the singing waves Tranquebar is a project where Upasana strives to transform Tranquebar into a cultural tourism destination through restoring beauty and charm to this quiet coastal town in Tamil Nadu. Through training and marketing, we are engaging the local population, enhancing their skills in craft and bringing them into contact with visitors eager to buy their wares. In this way, the people can improve their livelihoods and feel proud of their roots at Tranquebar again.

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

SMALL STEPS – for a big change Small Steps is a green campaign which was launched as a solution to the environmental problem of plastic carry bags. We aim at telling people – ’Carry your own shopping bags’ and encourage them to avoid the usage of plastic bags. ‘Small Steps’ however, is more than just a bag. Women from more than 14 villages work to make the ‘Small Steps’ bags. ‘Small Steps’ believes that the solutions to our problems lie in every little step we take every day, altering our small habits to make a bigger change.

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

JANAKI – house of conscious living We celebrate handmade in India at Janaki! Janaki is a community of consumers, producers, designers and dreamers of a conscious lifestyle. Our dream is one of responsible design, luxury and excellence. We design products that connect luxury to grass root. Janaki’s collections of clothes are made in the finest organic cotton, khadi and handloom. The bodycare range is pure and organic. Janaki cares for you, our people and our planet.

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

VARANASI WEAVERS – continuing the thread of tradition Upasana began to work with the Varanasi weaver community in 2006 and later went on to introduce a brand called “Varanasi Weavers”. This project encouraged the weavers from this community to continue what they were best at – weaving. Upasana involves itself with the community through social intervention, design, communication solution and marketing. This project has been granted special permission by the UNESCO. Upasana has introduced Varanasi both nationally and globally, and has also brought many brands to work in the support of the weaver community.

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

ORGANISATIONAL HIERARCHY

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PANCHAYAT

SAMPLING

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CHECKING DPT

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GRAPHIC DESIGN

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STORE INCHARGE

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GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

ORGANISATIONAL STRUCTURE

uma prajapati CEO, Founder

siddharth

Small steps Incharge

meena

Stockroom manager

manoj pavitran Co-Founder

julie

Marketing & Upcycling

amudha

Store incharge

madhumita chandra Graphic designer

shuba

Janaki manager

dinesh

Production manager

geeta

Outreach

rama

Purchase & Reception

alli

Sampling head

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

INFRASTRUCTURE The studio is located amidst the enormous green belt of Auroville. It comprises of three red tile roofed buildings and is coocupied by a very aesthetic landscape around the buildings. The main office and the meeting point is occupied by the first building . The sampling department and the production unit is a placed adjacent to the main building. The store room, stock room and the checking department is on the other side of the production unit on a single story building accompined by the upcycling studio on the first floor. All together it is a secenic atmosphere to work here with a fish pond right in center of the work space. The Upasana Design studio Showroom is also in the same premises.

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

PROTOTYPING The prototyping team consists of six memebers , a pattern master , two tailors and thre embroidering ladies who takes care of the production part as well as the sampling. Prototyping team gets its instructions and design inputs from the creative head Uma, and also deals directly with the design team. new techniques, material manipulation, embroiderey and patterns are tried out on new prototypes before they are approved for going into production. About two to three new styles are protoytyped on everyday baisis and discussed during the morning panchayat meetings, decisions are made on how and what are to be done with the prototypes and the necessary steps are taken.

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

PRODUCTION With about two decades of being in the sustainable textile industry Upasana was able to deliver quality products to its customers which made them more wanting to get more of Upasana products , thanks to the production team lead by Mr.Dinesh. Production team comprises highly skilled & dedicated workers who are capable of delivering work on time. These workers have always been the soul of Upasana since the begining. It includes twelve skilled tailors , one pattern master and three helpers. The tailors are equipped with all the materials needed inside the production unit . Such as they have the yarn storage , fabric storage and the samples in the unit. Upasana uses complete organic cotton and natural dyed fabrics in making their products . Everyday all the waste collected are segerated and whatevr can be reused are reused. GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

PRODUCT LINE Upasana is one among the very few brands in India which focuses on susatainable fashion. The brand is known for its heritage of promoting traditional Indian textiles. The core pronciple of the brand is in beliving and creating a sustainable future throough fashion, creating clothes that go beyond beauty and vanity. The brands products are highly process driven by honest and clean manufactiring methods and techniques. The company’s efforts are strongly influenced by sustainability at all levels of its practice – from the use of indigenous cotton, zero waste production using upcycling and natural dyeing, and by adopting fair trade practises. The studio designs garments using traditional Indian textiles from different Indian states. It also works with khadi and uses organic cotton as a base material. Offers a range of women’s and men’s clothing, accessories and gifts produced sustainably. Upasana offers you a complete range of textiles using organic cotton , natural dyed and prints. It has alwys been fascinating people around the country producing clothes using diffrent textiles from all over India. Upasana respects each piece of textile as a piece of art , thus the clothes made out of it are always has got a value of an art piece. The use of vivid range of colors and silhouettes have made the brand stand out. 38

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

PRODUCT ANALYSIS Product line of Upasana is a unique and exquisit in its own way , the idea of bringing up a sustainable fashion is all seen in it. The combination of using organic cotton and naturally dyed fabric in their complete porduct line projects the diffrence between Upasana and other brands according to the materials used in making products. Upasana being an ethical brand, mainly focuses on every aspect of being sustainable & responsible to the society. It has always been to contribute back to the society more than what they take from it. As speaking from a brand aspect this is what is expected from a brand being sustainable and Upasana has nailed it. The brand Upasana not only produces garments but also is into accessories like bags and stoles , medicinal home furnishing products etc. They are not only making womens line but also have a mens line of collection. Upasana is also a brand which focuses on zero waste outcome , even the waste fabrics are upcyled into garments , bags and accessories. Upasana strongly works towards quality craftmenship and revival of traditional Indian textile skills, thsu the products of Upasana also has its own identity in the materials used as well as the techniques and sihouettes used. Begining with the color pallette used, Upasanaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collections mostly focuses on three categories, neutral , warm & cool colors giving a feeling of relaxed luxury , warmth, intimacy , Indian yet chic in a global style. 40

The scarfs made have a featiure of light weightness, kurthiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s at Upasna are more of and A-line patterns. A calligraphy line of collection which represents art form on textile in a very contemporary way printed on organic cotton using natural dyes gives a total uplift towards the thought of being conscious living. It is also known very welll for its zero waste management method where even waste fabrics are also converted in to a valuable piece of art. The upcyling collection at Upasana is unique collection that comes with a thought of being sustainable. Upcycling is basically mix matching and color blocking fabrics either in a symmetric or asymmetric way, thus each product made out of the left over textile is a uniques piece of itself. Being an sustainablly conscious brand, turning every piece of textile into a pieceof art Upasana products does comes with a price. Scarves and kuthis and simple dresses comes with a pirce tag between 1200 Inr to 5900 Inr, other valuable dresses and sets comes between 6000 Inr to 10000 Inr. Other range of products would be products using rare traditional textile techniques , these products comes between the range of 7900 Inr to 10900 Inr. Accessories range starts from 1100 Inr to 1900 Inr.

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

MARKETING As a brand Upasana is well known for the way it adapts to reach people, being a sustainably conscious brand Upasana promotes itself as an epitome of sustainable fashion. With the background of concrete story liine of being a sustainable brand Upasana never had to drag customers to it, whereas after heraring the story of Upasana and its founder Uma Prajapati , people started showing interest and following it on their own will. As all other brand Upasana also has its e-commerce platform where people can reach from diffrent corners of the world. It also has a facebook page and instagram pages where the daily updates at Upasana regarding upcoming collection or fairs etc are showcased. Mostly Upasanaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s words are carried over by people from diffrent places who come and visit Upasana at auroville. It also has a store at Auroville where the products can be accessed, and is also been showcased at diffrent fairs alll over India. Fairs such as Handloom Export Promortion Council Of India, Kitsch Mandi, Pause for a cause exhibition at Hyderabad, New Delhi, Kolkata, Pune, Craft Council of Andhra Prdesh and Telangana, World Fair Trade and man more exhibitions all over India. Another major form of its marketing and reaching people hers is doen by the campaings and awareness programmes done frequently , such as the Small Steps campaing , Varanasi weavers , Upcycling campaings etc. GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

FAIRS PARTICIPATION One of the major way for advertisment and sales of Upasana is its active participation in trade fairs and exhibitions all around India. According to Upasana taking part in fairs and exhibitions makes it easier for the brand to interact with the customers and the society to spread the awarness about conscious living as well as being sustainable. Being a brand that supports sustainable fashion it is the duty of Upasana to reach out people and make them aware about sustainable living. Taking part is exhibitions incude not only usual exhibitins and fairs , it includes the fairs of Craft Council of India , Handloom Export Promotion Council ,Pause for a Cause, Dastkari Haat and other fairs that promotes sustainability

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

ANALYSIS Upasana is an organisation that focuses on producing sustainably responsible design , all the clothes made at Upasana are a combination of organic cotton and naturally dye/printed fabrics. Upasanaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clothes are elegantly designed, finely tailored and are perfectly balanced between high-fashion and quirky. A lot of the womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clothes have layers, gathers and patches as the design house believes in upcycling leftover fabric swatches. The organisation completely belives in zero waste management , every single cloth made at Upasana is made sure that it i a socially responsible design. The collection at Upasana is manily out of all the traditional textiles seen around India, it not only promotes the textile but also supports the farmers and weavers for their livelihoood. Upasana not only produces garments but also is into accessories like bags and stoles , medicinal home furnishing products etc. They are not only making womens line but also have a mens line of collection. Upasana is also a brand which focuses on zero waste outcome , even the waste fabrics are upcyled into garments , bags and accessories. The colors used at Upasana are a wide range because of the use of most of the traditional textiles, but mainly Upasana focuses on cool , warm and neutral colors.

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

BRAND ANALYSIS HIGH END

MODERN/ CONTEMPORARY

LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES

ETHNIC

MIDRANGE GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

MARKET ANALYSIS S.W.O.T ANALYSIS STRENGTH : Brand focuses on ethic but contemporary traditional Indian textile products. WEAKNESS : Lack of huge production capacity and need more reach among people. OPPORTUNITY : Can expand into forein market as per the need of contemporary Indian accessories THREAT : Design language and themes being replicated/ adapted and sold at much cheaper rates. USER PROFILE Age Group : 20 years to 50

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

MARKET COMPETITION/ BHU:SATTVA Bhu:sattva is a popular Indian brand of organic clothing infused with natures serenity and mystique. Bhu:sattva believes in conserving the beauty of nature. Bhu:sattva is a Gujarat based organic clothing brand that makes use of fabric featuring natural fibers in order to exude a calm aura that soothes the senses. A completely natural and Organic clothing, Bhu:sattva is for those who desire to get attuned to natures mystical forces. The comfort that these organic outfits offer makes them great as prêt wear. Alternatively, they are quite a perfect luxury, couture clothing as well which leaves lasting impressions. With flowy and

Bhu:sattva is a brand which has “started green” instead of “going green”. The idea was to inculcate ethics and sustainability in the entire supply chain and thus come up with a Fair Trade Concept! Talking about supply chain, the core designing team & artisans, working together from the same platform, is the reason behind a strong backward integration of Bhu:sattva Fashion House.

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

MARKET COMPETITION/ RANGOLI Prema’s ingenuity comes through in the way she has fused the Tangail saree borders with other fabric to create dressy overtops. Pretty crochet trims and appliqué work further embellish the outfits. There is no dearth of accessories either - from wrist bands to neckpieces to scarves in a variety of shapes. Bags are made of traditional Indian fabrics, dressed up with sequins and even flowers made of fabric - not surprising since Prema is of French Carribean descent.

Her western eye has carefully zeroed in on the strengths of Indian fabrics and the rich colours, and she has created outfits that blend Eastern and Western styles bearing her unmistakable stamp. And, Prema’s USP? Ethical fashion - one that is environment-friendly and sustainable. The price ranges from Rs. 450 to Rs. 7,500.

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

MARKET COMPETITION/ ANOKHI Anokhi is distinguished by its prints and sense of designs, range of colours and product quality. For over 40 years, Anokhiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ideals have been those of conservation and development, through the input of design, marketing and project funding. The Company is well known as an alternative role model for good business practices, and the ongoing revival of traditional textile skills.

Anokhiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s designs blend contemporary sensibilities with traditions of excellence. Its designers seek the bold and the striking, the graphic and the colourful, using modern printing techniques to keep pace with a demanding and fast moving world market, keeping the spirit of resurgence always alive.

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

MARKET COMPETITION/ TRANSLATE Translate’ is a concept Apparel and Home Textile Design company in India that empowers regional Ikat artisans in transforming the traditional hand-loom weaving to contemporary outfits and home accessories. The primary focus of ‘Translate’ is to revive the ageold traditional art of Ikat; bringing it to a larger audience through weaving, designing, producing and retailing. ‘Translate’ plays a role in its own way, creating awareness for India’s rich heritage in handlooms through its sustainable, innovative, functional and sensible readyto-use Ikat products.

‘Translate’ primarily focuses on warp, weft and double Ikat that is almost on the brink of extinction. The outfits are classic, minimalistic with attention to detail and have more emphasis on effortless styling. All textiles at ‘Translate’ are hand-woven by our team of trained weavers and exclusively designed for each collection.

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

MARKET COMPETITION/ MOGRA DESIGNS Mogra by Sheena is a design label rooted in a passion for travel, crafts & easy style. The brand promotes fair trade and responsible sourcing. At Mogra, our vision is to journey along India, collecting memories, photographs and crafts that are indigenous to our land. We want to tell stories like theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve never been heard before; about the over-exploited block prints of Rajasthan and why the original is so much better, about abused Banjaran women and how they sew magical things in tiny rooms, about the significance of each piece of mirror worked into the Lambadi tribeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s costume, about the freedom of Khadi and about the tiny lanes in Banaras where God is present in each strand of silk; but most of all, we want to make people travel through their wardrobes.

Every piece made by Mogra carries with it generations of hand-me-down skills that artisans have perfected through decades of practice. Each piece has been painstakingly crafted and all fabrics are responsibly sourced.

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

PROJECT 1 KARIMA A collection of garments made out of fabric remanents where. This is socially responsible project inorder to give commercial value to the huge amount waste which was available in the company.

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

DESIGN ORIENTATION Upasana is a sociallly responsible textile design studio that produces garments and accessories out of organic cotton and naturally dyed/printed fabrics. Upasanaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s approach towards manufacturing textile products is being socially responsible with all the products manufactured. The studio is popularly known for its sustainable fashion and the way it promots the way of conscious living to its customers, it is also a place where zero waste management is practised. My inspiration for making the collection was the upcycling project at Upasana , and also the lump of left over fabrics that where stocked at Upasana. These fabrics where the leftover of the previous production batch , which now cannot b e launched because of the lesser quantity of it. Thus the idea of combiniing all the fabrics and coming up with a new range of unique piece came in. And also there where lump of cutting waste that where of no use and from that the idea of the second collection popped out.. Intervention made was the combined use of the leftover fabrics by color matchiching them and coming up with a new range of products, as well as the use of cutting waste leftovers to make accessories out of it.

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

PROJECT BRIEF Design a range of kurtis keeping in mind the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; s core principle of sustainable fashion and also develop a range of bags , incorporating the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s as well the customer requirements. The products developed should be associated with personal as well as socially responsible, thus exploring the qualitative idea of being sustainable.Products developed would serve as an experiment of being sustainable and conscious living.

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

ORIENTATION ON UPCYCLING Upcycling is a way of processing an item to make it better than the original. In the example of clothing, this is often taking something that doesn’t t or is stained/torn and refashioning a wearable product from it. Like all wastes, textile waste originates from the community via a number of streams including the bre, textile and clothing manufacturing industry, consumers, the commercial and service industries. These are dened as pre- consumer, post-consumer and production textile waste. The denition of textile waste in the context of this dissertation means textile waste and garment leftovers from the production and sale of clothing (pre consumer waste), In other words, all items whose usual next step in the life cycle would be landll or recycling. The main focus of the research is production waste. Textile waste suitable for fashion design can be divided into three groups based on their source: • Post-consumer waste • Pre-consumer waste • Production waste They each have dierent characteristics and potential for being used in fashion design. * Post consumer waste Post-consumer textile waste consists of any type of garment or household textile (such as sheets or towels) that the consumer no longer needs and decides to discard, either because they are worn out, damaged, outgrown, or have gone out of fashion. This category has typically been of reasonable to good quality garment that can be recovered and subsequently recycled by another user as second-hand clothing, 58

*Pre consumer waste Pre-consumer textile waste is manufacturing waste that is generated by processing bres, (be they natural or synthetic bres) and the production of nished yarns and textiles, technical textiles, nonwoven, garment and footwear, including o-cuts, selvages, shearings, rejected materials and/or B-grade garment. Whilst “cabbage” (over-estimated fabric metres and o-cuts of saleable size) has for many years, been resold into markets or made-up into smaller items, most pre consumer textile waste in Tirupur is simply sent to landll. Pre- consumer textile waste is usually “clean waste”. Firms either arrange their own waste disposal services or use council managed services and pay landll fees according to how much is dumped. Upcyling as a concept was rst used in the context of waste management. The source material in upcycling is usually gathered in the same region where production take place which, in turn, also contributes to resolving environmental and social issues related to the globalization of the fashion textile industry and its reliance on transportation. Implementing upcycling to create unique, one-o designs is playful and gives an easy opportunity to use a variety of types of textile waste.

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

HOW UPCYCLING CAN BE A SOLUTION FOR FABRIC WASTE ? The up cycling fashion movement centers on the creative reuse of discarded materials, including factory textile waste, vintage clothing and jewelry, and other reclaimed materials. This refashioning results in unique, one of a kind product that are sustainable. UPCYCLING FASHION WITH FABRIC LEFT OVER In this process, rather than modifying a complete, existing garment or accessory, artisans take waste from the fashion industry – things like textile remnants, bits of leftover leather, and other components – and upcycle them into a brand new piece of fashion. * Production waste It consists of leftovers from garment manufacturing, such as trimmings, proofs, leftover fabric, o-cuts, ends of rolls, etc. Production waste is the easiest material to use in upcycling because the volume produced is generally quite large and regular. Production waste that comes from the garment industry itself is a prospective input for upcycling – meeting the need both in terms of quantity and quality. A practical example of production waste is in context of my dissertation at AK design studio which involves fabric cut outs left after the garment is made. The ow of quantity is uniform in terms of fabric waste.

METHODS OF TEXTILE WASTE MANAGEMENT The concept of waste hierarchy refers to the 3Rs – reduce, reuse, and recycle– which classies waste management methods according to their desirability. This means that, ideally, waste generation should be prevented or reduced, and that generated waste should be recovered by means of reuse, recycling, and other recovery options, thus reducing disposal and landll operations. In the fashion textile industry, the aim of the waste hierarchy scheme is to extract the maximum practical benets from garments while generating the minimum amount of waste and causing the least environmental impact. The approach to implementing the 3Rs in the fashion textile industry can be briey described as follows: *REDUCE • Reduce means, in general, buying less and using less which is about designing clothes where no scraps are left after the pattern is cut out, can be classied as a reduce strategy. *REUSE Reuse deals with products in the same way as redistribution and resale. Reused garments include those that go to sorting centres, and, from there, to second-hand stores, and also items that are passed on from mother to child, sibling to sibling, between friends, etc. * RECYCLE Recycle is concerned with providing the manufacturer with re-processed raw material to use as an input to make new goods. Recycling material saves resources and usually uses less energy than the production of new material.

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

FABRIC WASTE AT UPSANA Waste fabric generation iat UPASANA :o Amount of waste fabric generated : 8-10 kgs per week o Maximum Lengths of waste fabric generated: Smallest remnants ranging from 5-7 inches to 1/4th meters & maximum lengths Â˝ to 1mtrs (hem cutoffs). o Types of fabrics: * * * * *

Otagnic Cotton Traditional printed fabric Indigo fabric Silk Jute

Initial usage of waste fabric :o Smaller fabrics were used for making tassles for garments. o longer fabrics were used as textured borders for other graments. o They are also used for in-house sampling.

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

MARKET STUDY

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

DOODLAGE Doodlage designs quirky high street fashion with minimal wastage of material. The founder, Kriti Tula decided to start designing clothes when she witnessed how much waste textile industries generated. Doodlage takes good quality industrial fabric waste and re-designs it to look chic. The label ‘doodlage’ is a blend of sustainable and exclusive high street fashion. They aim to merge innovative designs with sustainable technique of clothing to make fashion not just chic,but also Eco-friendly. They work at re-designing,re-constructing and re-cycling good quality second hand clothing and industrial waste. They make sure every product has it’s own identity in terms of cut,fabric,colou r defining the entire concept of individuality.

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

PAROMITA BAERJEE Initiated by a textile design graduate from the National Institute of Design (NID) Ahmedabad, the brand works closely with artisan and craft clusters around India narrating the saga of the craft persons and their weave through simple and effective garments. The garments are a mode of storytelling emphasizing the feel of the “handmade”. The brand stands for a global approach to local aesthetics based in the handloom sector of India. The brand is all about simple and effective garments in a variety of textiles , textures and techniques. The labels caters to Ethno-contemporary ready to wear and effective occasion-wear.

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

KAHAANI “Kahaani” is a clothing label launched by Neha Sangvi, an architect by profession. Everything around us has a story. They try mixing different stories and we have a radically new story! That’s what “Kahaani” is all about. They mix and match natural fabrics and weaves, and use industrial fabric waste and transforming them into comfortable contemporary clothing.

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

ITR BY KYATHI PANDE The label is launched by Khyati Pande, a design graduate from National institute of fashion technology. The word â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;ITRA (pronounced as I-tra) comes from the arabic word ittar, which means essence. E ach design is a crafted juxtapose of contrasting elements, unrestricted silhouettes a nd an eclectic mix of fabrics and textures, which blend perfectly together, to bring out a character in clothing.

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

AKKURI BY PURI Akuri by Puri is a designer label co-created by mother and daughter â&#x20AC;&#x201C; AKURI ByPuriPuri Smiley and Amrita that is the perfect blend of traditional Indian-wear with an eclectic mix of modernity to give you unique, ultra chic pieces Akuri Puri is a designer label co-created by mother and daughter â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Smiley and that trulybystand out. Amrita Puri that is the perfect blend of traditional Indian-wear with an eclectic mix of modernity to give youboundaries. unique, ultra chicout pieces Akuri by Puri transcends Born of thethat lovetruly for stand fabric out. and travel, you can wear these ensembles just about anywhere, anytime Akuri by Puri transcends boundaries. Born out of the love for fabric and travel, you can wear these ensembles just about anywhere, anytime

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

SHRADDHA NIGAM AND MAYANK Never having used non-Indian fabrics, television actors turned designers Mayank Anand and Shraddha Nigam pride themselves on sustainable luxury fashion. Starting off their line of womenswear in 2010, their goal was to give the country’s small scale artisans and craftsmen, whose businesses were suffering at the hands of imported western fabric, a platform to showcase their work. Built upon the philosophy of natural and organic clothing, their local weaves reuse, recycle, repurpose and recreate, earning their entire line the label of ‘upcycled fashion’.

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

analysis

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

REDEFINED DESIGNER BRIEF To develop textile art compositions inspired by basic geoometry ,particularly using organic cotton , which is then converted into a collection of kurtis using patchwork. The color theme given was Indigo dominant, natural white, orange grey, indigo yellow.

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

IDEA GENERATION

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

DESIGN PROCESS GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

THEME BOARD

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

INSPIRATION BOARD

>> Inspiration was taken from basic geometric shapes and from the mondrian art , which comprises of color blocking . The asymetric proportion of the shapes and how the colors are spread across evenly was the key element of inspiration. GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

MOOD BOARD

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

COLOR BOARD * All the colors in the boards can vary 50 tones darker / 50 tones lighter

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

COLOR COMPOSITIONS The basic idea was to develop color combinations using the leftover production waste fabrics at Upasana. Relevant color compositions where derived for the textile compositions from the stock of fabrics available , the compositions where developed by keeping mind the color theme given. Each composition has five fabrics with one main color in the middle , an accent color and supporting colors in the background, and the fabric weight was also taken in consideration so when stitched together the whole textile composition has an even fall to it.

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

>> Multiple options of color compositions where developed using the fabrics availabilty . Each composition comprises of five diffrent fabrics , which where selected according to the color, and fall of th fabric. 78

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

INITIAL LAYOUTS 50cm

100 cm

120cm

90cm

30 cm

60 cm

30 cm

30cm 10cm

280 cm

(1)

180cm

280cm

150cm

40 cm

90 cm

40 cm

10cm

120 cm 110cm

>> The initial layouts where developed using kepping in mind the mondrian art . These set of layouts where also derived with a constant thought of how evenly the fabrics can their colors can be incorporated on it . 82

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

40 cm

60 cm

40 cm

100 cm

100 cm 280 cm

180 cm

50 c m

200 cm

280 cm

50 c m

70 cm

30 cm 60 cm

40 cm

120 cm

>> Two layout compositions where used , one on which a short top and a long kurti can be cut and the other on which only one kurti can be stitched. GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

40 cm

40 cm 120 cm

30 cm

280 cm

200 cm

160 cm

80 cm

50 c m

80 cm

40 cm 120 cm

120 cm

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

20 cm

15cm

20 cm 20 cm

70 cm

100 cm

20 cm

75 cm

70 cm

20 cm

30cm

30 cm 60 cm

280 cm

160 cm

100 cm

70 cm 140 cm

75 cm

50 c m

120 cm

40 cm

20 cm

20 cm 60 cm

160 cm 280 cm

280 cm

90 cm

10 cm

80 cm

10 cm

70 cm

50 c m 20 cm

50 cm 120 cm

70 cm 120 cm

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

12 cm 12 cm

93 cm

45 cm

12 cm

90 cm

180 cm

30 cm

180 cm

50 cm

60 cm

40 cm

(11)

88 cm 130 cm

85 cm

40 cm

50 cm

70 cm

40 cm

30 cm

30 cm 150 cm

150 cm

>> The dimensions of both the type of layouts are 150cm x 130cm and 180cm x 150cm for one kurti and 280cm x 120cm for two kurtis. GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

70 cm 20 cm

80 cm

30 cm

70 cm

130 cm

80 cm

40 cm

30 cm

180 cm

50 cm

160 cm

75 cm

25 cm

45 cm

50 cm

45 cm

70 cm

20 cm 30 cm 150 cm

30 cm

150 cm

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

30 cm

20 cm

40 cm 180 cm

30 cm

(16)

90 cm

(15)

180 cm

80 cm

120 cm

100 cm

80 cm

30 cm

40 cm 60 cm

30 cm

45 cm

40 cm

45 cm

150 cm

30 cm 150 cm

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

180 cm

(25)

180 cm

150 cm

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

150 cm

130 cm

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

180 cm

150 cm

130 cm

150 cm

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

150 cm

(23)

180 cm

150 cm

120 cm

SELECTED LAYOUTS 70 cm 20 cm

80 cm

70 cm

40 cm

30 cm

180 cm

50 cm

160 cm

75 cm

25 cm

45 cm

70 cm

45 cm

150 cm

>> The selected layots are then assinged to respective color compositions and then the textile compositions are made ie; the final fabric for the kurti is made. 94

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

12 cm

93 cm

60 cm

280 cm

180 cm

200 cm

30 cm

180 cm

45 cm

12 cm

60 cm

100 cm

(11)

88 cm 130 cm

40 cm

85 cm

40 cm

30 cm

150 cm 120 cm

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

TEXTILE COMPOSITIONS The color compositions developed are now transferd onto the layouts that where explored. Points that where to be kept in mind while making the textile compositions where : >> The weight of the fabric >> Colors should be spread evenly >> No repeatition of same color on the adjacent boxes.

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100

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102

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PROCESS

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PROCESS OF MAKING

Selected compositions are matched with color compositions made and then sitched. The final textile composition made is then placed under a stencil layout of the garment and then the silhouette is cut out fro stitching. 104

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

70 cm

20 cm

80 cm

40 cm

30 cm

180 cm

50 cm 25 cm

25 cm

45 cm

70 cm

160 cm

75 cm

150 cm

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SPECIFICATION & COSTING

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SPECIFICATION Design No : UPAS001 Design name : aavanya Collection Name : karima Product : Kurti Materials : Organic cotton waste Number of fabrics : 5 Colors : Technique : Patchwork, Embroidery Accessories : Buttons

COSTING Mark up Material Washing Cost of patching Embroidery Cutting Checking Tags

: : : : :

800 1/2 metre:- 200 x 5 = 1000 50 1 metre:- 250 x 3 = 750 Running stitch :- 40/metre Buttons :- 40 : 150 : 100 : 10

TOTAL : 2900

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SPECIFICATION Design No : UPAS002 Design name : arivi Collection Name : karima Product : Kurti Materials : Organic cotton waste Number of fabrics : 5 Colors : Technique : Patchwork, Embroidery Accessories : Buttons

COSTING Mark up Material Washing Cost of patching Embroidery Cutting Checking Tags

108

: : : : :

800 1/2 metre:- 200 x 5 = 1000 50 1 metre:- 250 x 3 = 750 Running stitch :- 40/metre Buttons :- 40 : 150 : 100 : 20

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SPECIFICATION Design No : UPAS003 Design name : aveera Collection Name : karima Product : Kurti Materials : Organic cotton waste Number of fabrics : 5 Colors : Technique : Patchwork, Embroidery Accessories : Buttons

COSTING Mark up Material Washing Cost of patching Embroidery Cutting Checking Tags

: : : : :

800 1/2 metre:- 200 x 5 = 1000 50 1 metre:- 250 x 3 = 750 Running stitch :- 40/metre Buttons :- 40 : 150 : 100 : 20

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SPECIFICATION Design No : UPAS005 Design name : ayili Collection Name : karima Product : Kurti Materials : Organic cotton waste Number of fabrics : 5 Colors : Technique : Patchwork, Embroidery Accessories : Buttons

COSTING Mark up Material Washing Cost of patching Embroidery Cutting Checking Tags

110

: : : : :

800 1/2 metre:- 200 x 5 = 1000 50 1 metre:- 250 x 3 = 750 Running stitch :- 40/metre Buttons :- 40 : 150 : 100 : 20

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

SPECIFICATION Design No : UPAS004 Design name : ayal Collection Name : karima Product : Kurti Materials : Organic cotton waste Number of fabrics : 5 Colors : Technique : Patchwork, Embroidery Accessories : Buttons

COSTING Mark up Material Washing Cost of patching Embroidery Cutting Checking Tags

: : : : :

800 1/2 metre:- 200 x 5 = 1000 50 1 metre:- 250 x 3 = 750 Running stitch :- 40/metre Buttons :- 40 : 150 : 100 : 20

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SPECIFICATION Design No : UPAS006 Design name : azza Collection Name : karima Product : Kurti Materials : Organic cotton waste Number of fabrics : 5 Colors : Technique : Patchwork, Embroidery Accessories : Buttons

COSTING Mark up Material Washing Cost of patching Embroidery Cutting Checking Tags

112

: : : : :

800 1/2 metre:- 200 x 5 = 1000 50 1 metre:- 250 x 3 = 750 Running stitch :- 40/metre Buttons :- 40 : 150 : 100 : 20

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

SPECIFICATION Design No : UPAS007 Design name : nayana Collection Name : karima Product : Kurti Materials : Organic cotton waste Number of fabrics : 5 Colors : Technique : Patchwork, Embroidery Accessories : Buttons

COSTING Mark up Material Washing Cost of patching Embroidery Cutting Checking Tags

: : : : :

800 1/2 metre:- 200 x 5 = 1000 50 1 metre:- 250 x 3 = 750 Running stitch :- 40/metre Buttons :- 40 : 150 : 100 : 20

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SPECIFICATION Design No : UPAS008 Design name : anamika Collection Name : karima Product : Kurti Materials : Organic cotton waste Number of fabrics : 5 Colors : Technique : Patchwork, Embroidery Accessories : Buttons

COSTING Mark up Material Washing Cost of patching Embroidery Cutting Checking Tags

114

: : : : :

800 1/2 metre:- 200 x 5 = 1000 50 1 metre:- 250 x 3 = 750 Running stitch :- 40/metre Buttons :- 40 : 150 : 100 : 20

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

SPECIFICATION Design No : UPAS009 Design name : abalya Collection Name : karima Product : Kurti Materials : Organic cotton waste Number of fabrics : 3 Colors : Technique : Patchwork, Embroidery Accessories : Buttons

COSTING Mark up Material Washing Cost of patching Embroidery Cutting Checking Tags

: : : : :

800 1/2 metre:- 200 x 5 = 1000 50 1 metre:- 250 x 3 = 750 Running stitch :- 40/metre Buttons :- 40 : 150 : 100 : 20

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SPECIFICATION Design No : UPAS0010 Design name : atvika Collection Name : karima Product : Kurti Materials : Organic cotton waste Number of fabrics : 5 Colors : Technique : Patchwork, Embroidery Accessories : Buttons

COSTING Mark up Material Washing Cost of patching Embroidery Cutting Checking Tags

116

: : : : :

800 1/2 metre:- 200 x 5 = 1000 50 1 metre:- 250 x 3 = 750 Running stitch :- 40/metre Buttons :- 40 : 150 : 100 : 20

GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

SPECIFICATION Design No : UPAS001 Design name : Collection Name : Product : Kurti Materials : Organic cotton waste Number of fabrics : 5 Colors : Technique : Patchwork, Embroidery Accessories : Buttons

COSTING Mark up Material Washing Cost of patching Embroidery Cutting Checking Tags

: : : : :

800 1/2 metre:- 200 x 5 = 1000 50 1 metre:- 250 x 3 = 750 Running stitch :- 40/metre Buttons :- 40 : 150 : 100 : 20

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FINAL PRODUCTS

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COLLECTION-2 PROJECT 2 Oviya The collection of bags made using fabric waste incorporating textile techniques on it.

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DESIGN ORIENTATION Upasana is a sociallly responsible textile design studio that produces garments and accessories out of organic cotton and naturally dyed/printed fabrics. Upasanaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s approach towards manufacturing textile products is being socially responsible with all the products manufactured. The studio is popularly known for its sustainable fashion and the way it promots the way of conscious living to its customers, it is also a place where zero waste management is practised. My inspiration for making this collection was to use the left over cutting waste from the production into saleable product , thus the idea of making textile surface using these cutting waste was proposed. These waste are larger in quantity and each surface made is an can be an art piece from the waste. After a couple of brainstorming the idea of taking inspiration from the paintings and converting them into an art piece using diffrent textile techique was proposed. Considering the colors used by Upasana the art pieces where produced in a series of warm, neutral and cool colors. Converting into an art piece was a challeng because of the various textile technique possibility that where aavailable, and also keeping in mind that, these are to be mass produced.

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BRIEF To design a collection of bags with the available fabric waste at UPASANA. Textile swatches using diffrent textile techniques are to be developed which will be implemented on the surface of the bags.

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Otagnic Cotton Traditional printed fabric Indigo fabric Silk Jute

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MARKET STUDY

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PABIBEN The main objective of PABIBEN is to develop entrepreneurship among women artisans to strengthen their social and economic status, and provide platform to make them capable to think and to choose, use their maximum creativity in their work. Their only mission is to develop a strong viable business model for women artisans, and to empower these women to shape their own future, and those of their families and future generations.. To develop a strong viable business model for women artisans, and to empower these women to shape their own future, and those of their families and future generations. Most of the designs has been inspired from tradition and nature and their day to day life. We believe and respect the traditional knowledge and wisdom, And give them a space to use their creativity by their hands, hearts and mind.

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TORANAM Toranam provides hand-crafted lifestyle products made by local artisans for that Indian touch to your home. Toranam comes up with products like handmade cushions, lampshades,bold carpets,traditional puppets, textile handmade bags,curtains etc. Their designs are purely handmade using textile techniques. They are inspired by colors,textures and everything around them.

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INDIA FAB & CRAFT JAGRITIRAJ is a Registered Not-For-Profit Organization Popularising Mathematics Education among school children based out of Delhi.

A non-profit organization established by leading Technocrates & academicians personalities with the aim of promoting mathematics General Knowledge & Science education, This idealogy is promoted by marketing and selling handmade products using textile techniques like patchwork,embroidery,cutwork etc.

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PURKAL shree sakthi Stree Shakti women’s self help group program serves as an income-generating opportunity for women who otherwise have limited employment opportunities in the rural communities of northern India. The women receive the full benefits of their labor and are able to produce a sustainable income in a fair trade environment, which ensures proper education, health and hygiene for them and their families.With inspiration from India’s colourful culture, the Stree Shakti artisans hand stitch quilt bed covers, silk comforters, children’s quilts, baby quilts, handbags, and home accessories.

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SANDUR KUSHALA KALA Situated in the Bellary District of Karnataka, Sandur Kushala Kala Kendra (SKKK) had its beginnings when twelve local Lambani women, from the thanda of Susheelanagar, were brought together to work as a group. The year was 1984 and this modest initiative heralded the start of a significant change in the lives of not only the Lambanis, but also other traditional crafts people who lived in and around Sandur. Today, about 500 artisans work with SKKK. It has helped twenty self-help groups to become active. And local craftspeople are benefiting from, and growing with the organisation. The major activities of Sandur Kushalakala Kendra are: 1. Lambani Embroidery 2. Dyeing 3. Khadi (Weaving and Spinning) 4. Sculpting in Stone & Working with Wood

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KALA RAKSHA Kala Raksha Trust, a grassroots social enterprise, is dedicated to preservation of traditional arts. We envision this broadly, as holistic encouraging of the creative capacity of the artist. Comprising artisans, community members, and experts in art, design and museums, Kala Raksha was founded on artisan initiative in 1993 in the desert region Kutch, in India. the Trust maintains a collection of heirloom textiles housed locally. Artisans participated in establishing Kala Rakshaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Museum. Thus it embodies a simple but revolutionary concept: involve people in presenting their own cultures.

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REDEFINED DESIGNRBRIEF A collection of bags should be designed inspired from anyone of the artists paintings. The artworks were replicated on fabric using textile techniques which was then developed into traditional bags for the brand UPASANA. Exploration of different artworks of artists around the world was done Replicating them onto fabric using different textile techniques, creating colour ways of the approved textile swatch and developing the swatch into a bag.

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IDEA GENERATION

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THEME BOARD

fragment spatter spread

shred

burst

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MOOD BOARD

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COLOR BOARD

PANTONE 7690C

PANTONE 1215C

PANTONE 710C

PANTONE BLACK 6C

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ART FROM AROUND

VAN GOGH Van Goghâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s drawings are special due to the fact that his depiction of figures, light, and landscape can be admired without the need for color. The artist drew using pencil, black chalk, red chalk, blue chalk, reed pen and charcoal, although he often mixed mediums when drawing. He drew on a variety of paper types and used any material available to him.

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Still is considered one of the foremost Color Field painters — his non-figurative paintings are non-objective, and largely concerned with juxtaposing different colors and surfaces in a variety of formations. Still’s arrangements are less regular. His jagged flashes of color give the impression that one layer of color has been “torn” off the painting, revealing the colors underneath.

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Leonid Afremov keeps the majority of his art politically neutral. His paintings are not offensive to anyone nor send any hidden messages. The paintings usually reflect certain personal memories and emotions. Leonid Afremov tries to draw the viewer to have a certain feeling rather than tell a story via the painting, or have the viewer see the world how he sees it.

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Most of his work starts as a blank screen in Photoshop that he gradually transform through adding color, brushstrokes, filters, and anything else that comes to mind. He sometimes manipulate digital photographs that Ihe had taken with an old camera that I bought a while ago. The Painting With Light technique is an outcome of my trial and error work with art and digital technology

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More than a combination of styles, his art is literally a song and dance. Before beginning a new work, Jun limbers his body in preparation, puts a hip-hop track on and dances in front of his blank canvas. He then runs towards the canvas and attacks it with spray cans, rollers, brushes and splatter. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a theatrical performance that often takes place before an audience, and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s one that is intuitive and immediate.

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Inspired by nature, organic forms and repetition, Eva Isaksen primarly works with thin papers, where she prints, draws, cuts up and mixes layers of beautiful delicate imagery on to her canvas. The result is these wonderful paintings and drawings that explore a love of colour, line, material, space and form. Isaksen likes to explore how art as a process is changing and growing just like the natural world that inspires her.

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Georgia Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Keeffe is one of the most significant and intriguing artists of the twentieth century, known internationally for her boldly innovative art. Her distinct flowers, dramatic cityscapes, glowing landscapes, and images of bones against the stark desert sky are iconic and original contributions to American Modernism.

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Wendy Brusca is a passionate photographer. She is an ardent fan of rustic textures, textural backgrounds, worn off art. The intricacy of the textures , colors and the look influences her art works and photography

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SELECTED ARTWORKS

MARK LAWRENCE

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INITIAL EXPLORATIONS GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

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>> Textile swatches made using waste bits of fabrics , which are cut into square pieces and then quilted on to the base fabric. GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

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>> Fabric waste that are cut into circles and then quilted onto the base fabric inspired fron the painting. GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

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>> Fabric pieces cut and then quilted on base fabric and then quilted on the main fabric inspired from the painting. GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

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>> Various textile techniques tried on fabric inspired from the painting GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

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>> Fabric paint and fabric dye used in diffrent ways to bring in the look of the painting. GRADUATION PROJECT K.R.VINAY KUMAR B.DES. TEXTILE DESIGN 2012-16 NIFT, CHENNAI

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SELECTED TECHNIQUES

>> This particular technique is done using fabrics cut into circular forms and then quilted on to the base fabric.

>> This particular technique is done by cutting fabrics into small triangular piece and then placed according to the color composition and quilted on to the base fabric.

>> This particular technique is done by making small slitss on the fabric and then random stitches over the fabric according to the color composition an then quilted onto the base fabric

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PRODUCT 1

SPECIFICATION Design No : Collection Name : Product : Materials : Technique : Trims : Colorways

UPABAG 001 Oviya sholder bag Organic cotton waste, muslin, organic cotton fabric Quilting , cutwork , applique, overlocking. Tassels, sling strap, zipper, eyelet, dog hook, adjuster.

COSTING Mark up Material Washing Cost of stitching/ quilting Embroidery

: 600 : surplus fabric : 50 organic cotton :50 : 50 : 200

: Running stitch :- 40/metre Tassels :- 50 overlocking :- 50 Cutting : 150 Checking : 100 Tags : 20 Zipper : 40 TOTAL : 1400

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PRODUCT 2 SPECIFICATION Design No : Collection Name : Product : Materials : Technique : Trims : Colorways

UPABAG 002 Oviya sholder bag Organic cotton waste, muslin, organic cotton fabric Quilting , cutwork , applique, overlocking. Tassels, sling strap, zipper, eyelet, dog hook, adjuster.

COSTING Mark up Material Washing Cost of stitching/ quilting Embroidery

: 600 : surplus fabric : 50 organic cotton :50 : 50 : 200

: Running stitch :- 40/metre Tassels :- 50 overlocking :- 50 Cutting : 150 Checking : 100 Tags : 20 Zipper : 40 TOTAL : 1400 170

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PRODUCT 3 SPECIFICATION Design No : Collection Name : Product : Materials : Technique : Trims :

UPABAG 003 Oviya sholder bag Organic cotton waste, muslin, organic cotton fabric Quilting , cutwork , applique, overlocking. Tassels, sling strap, zipper, eyelet, dog hook, adjuster.

COSTING Mark up Material Washing Cost of stitching/ quilting Embroidery

: 600 : surplus fabric : 50 organic cotton :50 : 50 : 200

: Running stitch :- 40/metre Tassels :- 50 overlocking :- 50 Cutting : 150 Checking : 100 Tags : 20 Zipper : 40 TOTAL : 1400

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FINAL PRODUCTS

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CONCLUSION The graduation project was a great learning experience not only from an academic point of view, but from an overall perspective. It gave me oppurtunity to understand the whole production process of the industry and also the process of making a product,keeping in mind the brand stand and also its client base. I learnt to take up a task and mould it in such a way that the product fits the company and its idealogy. I was given the oppurtunity to interact with the local people of Auroville,understand their culture ,morals and philosophies which was indeed an impeccable moments which will be cherished. I understood the working of the company, understand it from a commercial point of view and making my productâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;sWW commercially viable in the market. I learnt the significance of time and planning,which helped me go through the entire tenure of the graduation project constructive.

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BIBILIOGRAPHY www.upcyclethat.com hipcycle.com/what-is-upcycling www.refinery29.com/how-to-color-block https://www.quora.com/What-is-color-blocking www.portico.in www.fabinida.in www.listology.com/lukeprog/list/100-greatest-paintings-all-time-pics www.upasana.in rangdecor.blogspot.com rang-thecoloursoflife.blogspot.com planetsave.com/2011/12/.../10-awesome-independently-run-blogs-for-upcyclingidea

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