EVENT
UK launch event WHEN THE WINES OF ALENTEJO SUSTAINABILITY PROGRAMME WAS PRESENTED TO THE UK TRADE IN MAY, ANDREW CATCHPOLE WENT TO DISCOVER MORE
THE EIGHT CERTIFIED PRODUCERS PRESENT AT THE EVENT: • Adega Mayor • Casa Clara • Casa Relvas • Herdade da Malhadinha Nova • Herdade de Coelheiros • Herdade dos Lagos • Herdade do Rocim • Herdade dos Grous 16 Vinhos do Alentejo
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s blind tastings go, the presentation of Alentejan wines at London’s Oxeye in May took quite a different and intriguing turn from the run-ofthe-mill. Against the backdrop of this hyper-sustainably run restaurant, the event opened with a walk-around snapshot of eight wines, with each representing some aspect of sustainability in the vineyard and/or cellar. To be fair, it was very much a guessing game, but this unusual opener did serve to highlight the progress that this region is making in all aspects green. The event was titled Wines of Alentejo – Leaders in Sustainability and had been organised to flag just how far this Portuguese DO has come since the introduction of its Wines of Alentejo Sustainability Programme (WASP) just 10 years ago. Modelled (with some local adaptation) on pioneering schemes in Chile and California, WASP represents by far the most advanced regionally encompassing sustainability scheme in any region of the Old World. As such, it provides a benchmark against which it must be hoped rival Portuguese and other European producing regions will set their own ambitious sustainability targets. Blind tasting done, each producer revealed which wine they had presented, discussing a particular aspect of sustainability as they did so. These included carbon-sequestrating work in the vineyards, organic practices, carbonreduction in the winery, water conservation, social sustainability and other facets besides. Francisco Mateus, director of the programme, was upbeat about how far Alentejo had come in terms of the number of producers and growers that had embraced WASP, while stressing that this was a long-term commitment for all. “We really had no idea how far we’d come on this journey in 10 years,” he said. “We’ve achieved good results, but are aware that the work will never be finished – each year there is
a new vintage, and the cycle starts again.” This was the first of a few live presentations of WASP, with similar events also initially scheduled to take place in Brazil and the US, targeting markets that are important to the region’s healthy and growing exports. The UK, though, was pinpointed as a first call, for a couple of rather strong reasons. “The UK has grown by 171% for us in the past two years alone, moving from our 10th export market to out fifth,” marketing director Tiago Carvana added. “But the UK is also very open to sustainability, the most open after the Nordics, so that is good as it gives producers that are not into sustainability a little push.” As if to prove the point, the calibre of attendees at the WASP event was high, ranging from the likes of Portuguese specialist importer Raymond Reynolds and the team from the sustainably-minded Marta Vines, by way of writers and communicators such as Peter McCombie MW and Ines Salpico, to the likes of Jo Locke MW of The Wine Society and David Morrison of Hallgarten & Novum. Sustainability Programme manager João Barroso then explained how Alentejo, with its warm, southerly climate, was already at the forefront of feeling the effects of climate change. “It is getting hotter and hotter in Alentejo,” said Barroso. “This is why, in 2015, we launched WASP, to support the [alleviation] of impact in the environmental and social sectors, as well as to protect and promote the economic performance of Alentejo wine itself.” Barroso also addressed the need for communication beyond the trade, to help consumers thread their way to greater understanding of what sustainability entails and embraces. This is especially important as there are so many differing strands to sustainability that it’s not always the easiest concept to explain. WASP has much to commend it and Alentejo certainly deserves the recognition due for its holistic sustainability programme.
