Časopis za kulturu vina Magazine for culture of wine
Broj / Edition 6 • Cijena 30 kn / Price 5 €
Tema broja Topic of the issue
OPOLO: Vino koje se vraća Opolo's Comeback
MERLOT Interview:
Miljenko Grgić & Enver Moralić Cliff Rames
Sadržaj / Content IZDAVAČ PUBLISHER: Spectator d.o.o
VINSKA KNJIŽNICA NA INTERNETU WINE LIBRARY ON THE INTERNET
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MERLOT UDOMAĆENA SVJETSKA SORTA MERLOT NATURALISED WORLD SORT
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POVIJESNI SUSRET VINSKIH VELIKANA HYSTORIC ENCOUNTER OF FAMOUS WINE PRODUCERS
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MATUŠKO VINA - JEDNA OD NAJPOZNATIJIH HRVATSKIH VINARIJA MATUŠKO WINES ONE OF THE MOST PROMINENT CROATIAN WINERIES
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MEDEA MALVAZIJA MIRISI I OKUSI ISTARSKOG TERROIRA MEDEA MALVAZIJA AROMA AND TASTE OF ISTRIAN TERROIR
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SANGRIA VINSKA ČAROLIJA S PIRINEJSKOG POLUOTOKA SANGRIA WINE MAGIC FROM PENINSULA IBERICA
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MERANO WINE FESTIVAL VINSKI RAJ U ALPAMA MERANO WINE FESTIVAL WINE PARADISE IN THE ALPS
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RESTORAN VINARIJA JOSIĆ RESTAURANT WINERY JOSIĆ
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FOTOGRAFIJE: Jadran Babić
PIJEMO GA MI OD VIKA, NI POTRIBA DRUGO LIKA! WE HAVE BEEN DRINKING IT FROM TIME IMMEMORIAL AND THAT IS THE ONLY MEDICINE WE EVER NEEDED!
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E-MAIL: info@vinum.in
MAJETIĆ VINSKA KUĆA MAJETIĆ WINE HOUSE
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NERICA
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S PONISTRE SE VIDI DOBRIČIĆ DOBRIČIĆ COMES INTO VIEW FROM THE WINDOW
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CLIFF RAMES GLASNOGOVORNIK HRVATSKIH VINA U AMERICI CLIFF RAMES GLASNOGOVORNIK HRVATSKIH VINA U AMERICI
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OPOLO VINO KOJE SE VRAĆA OPOLO WINE COMES BACK
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MARIN RENDIĆ TALENT & PASSION
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VARENIK ZABORAVLJENA DELICIJA PUNA ZDRAVLJA I ENERGIJE VARENIK FORGOTTEN DAINTY FULL OF HEALTH AND ENERGY
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KAD NESTANE PČELA, NESTAT ĆE I ČOVJEKA IF HONEY BEES ARE GONE, MANKIND IS GONE
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AGRO ILOK VINA KOJA SE PAMTE AGRO ILOK WINES WHICH CAN’T BE FORGOTTEN
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SHERRY SPECIJALNA VINA SHERRY SPECIAL WINES
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PUTEVIMA VINA - HRVATSKA VINARSKA PRIČA THE PATHS OF WINE CROATIAN WINE STORY
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DVADESET GODINA SABATINE TWENTY YEARS OF SABATINA
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MOŽDA NISTE ZNALI... MAY BE YOU DID NOT KNOW…
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UREDNIK EDITOR: Želimir Bašić IZVRŠNI UREDNIK EXECUTIVE EDITOR: Žana Rubić SURADNICI ASSOCIATES: Bernard Kozina, Zvonimir Štimac, Mladen Ljubljanović, Branimir Pulić, Massimo Pasquarelli
WEB: www.vinum.in TEL PHONE: +385 091 22 65 818 FAX: +385 21 584 382 GRAFIČKA PRIPREMA PREPRESS: Studio Tempera
Časopis za kulturu vina Vinum in izlazi tromjesečno. Godišnja pretplata je 99 kn (poštarina uključena). / The magazine for wine culture ‘Vinum in’ is published quarterly. Annual subscription is 99 Kn (postage included).
Poštovani čitatelji! Dear readers! V
inum in, Hrvatski časopis za kulturu vina, uskoro će ući u treću godinu izlaženja. Naše vinogradarstvo svojom kvalitetom i tradicijom zaslužuje i više od jednog časopisa, ali na žalost i ovaj jedini susreće se s mnogim problemima i postavljenim zamkama, te podnosi stalne nebrige, pa je ostavljen da se sam bori sa svim olujama raznih vrsta, težeći opstojanju. Sve se to događa u vrijeme kad se nagoviješta nova kriza dalmatinskog, pa i ukupnog vinogradarstva, tko zna koja po redu. Pribojavajući se ukupnog vinogradarskog sutona, promatramo nebrigu onih koji su dužni i plaćeni nalaziti izlaze iz kriznih situacija. Gdje je briga za čovjekom, koji svoj život ima u kršu gdje je i kamen već umoran? Međutim težak je navikao na probleme koji ranjavaju i tijelo i dušu, i uzda se uvijek u sebe i svoju ljubav za lozom, i naravno u Boga. Nije poput onih koji svoje probleme prostiru po cestama, trate vrijeme pred zgradama ministarstava, blokiraju ceste i prijete pred kamerama. Nažalost oni bolje prolaze od upornog i vrijednog vinogradara, koji nikako da uvjeri političke glave da ono što kontinentu znači pšenica, to je za primorski kraj loza od koje među svih poljodjelskim kulturama na primorju, unatoč vinogradarskom sutonu, živi najviše pučanstva. Hrvatska je postala zemlja piva, a pune bačve vina, i to kvalitetnog, zovu na uzbunu. Vinum in želi dati svoj obol podizanju vinske kulture koja je preduvjet boljeg i ekonomičnijeg vinskog gospodarenja. Želimo čuti o ovom i Vaše mišljenje, pa očekujemo priloge koje ćemo objaviti ako se uklope u koncept časopisa
inum In, Croatian magazine for wine culture will soon enter its third publishing year. Our viticulture with its quality and tradition deserves even more than one magazine, but unfortunately even this one is faced with numerous problems and set-up traps, and is also submitted to constant neglect, so it’s left to fight alone against all kinds of storms, seeking existence. All this is happening in time when a new crisis of Dalmatian, as well as all viticulture, is announced, who knows which one in the row. Fearing from the total twilight of viticulture, we observe unconcern from those who are obligated and paid to find exits in crisis situations. Where is the concern for man whose life is in barren land, where even rocks are already tired? Still, peasant is used to troubles that wound body and soul, and he always believes in his love for grape-wine, and in God, of course. He’s not like those who spread out their problems across the streets, waste time in front of ministries’ buildings, block the roads and make threats in front of cameras. Unfortunately they are getting by better than determined and hard working wine-grower, who can never explain to political heads that what wheat means to continental regions, that is grapewine for coastal region. And despite the twilight of viticulture, most population in those regions lives from grape wine among all agricultural branches. Croatia has became the land of the beer while barrels full of wine, quality wine indeed, call for alert. Vinum In wants to give its contribution to improvement of wine culture which is prerequisite of better and more economic wine management. We want to hear your opinion on this issue as well, so we expect additions which we’ll publish if they fit in the magazine’s concept.
Želimir Bašić
Želimir Bašić ašić
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Vinska knjižnica na internetu
Piše: /Written by Deni Karelović
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izobilju knjiga i časopisa, koji su najčešće sponzorirani, prosječni vinoljubac se teško snalazi. Svijet je zahvaljujući prometnoj povezanosti i komunikacijama, osobito internetu, postao „globalno selo“. To su riječi koje često čujete. Kako je čovjekov „rok trajanja“ relativno kratak, a količina različitih proizvođača vina prevelika, treba pronaći način da uživamo u što boljim vinima, osobito nama dragim, ali i s dobrim odnosom cijena – kvaliteta. Štoviše željeli bismo što češće uživati u novim okusima. Jeste li se ikada kao i ja šetali nekom stranom vinotekom ne znajući što bi kupili? Kao što sam negdje pročitao, „osjećao sam se kao komarac u nudističkom kampu“. Jedan od načina da dođemo do takve vrijedne i pouzdane informacije jest korištenje interneta.
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n abundance of books and magazines, which are most oftenly sponsored, average wine fans can hardly manage themselves. Thanks to traffic linkage and communications, especially on the Internet, world became “a global village”. You often hear these words. Considering human lifetime is relatively short, and quantity of different producers is too large, we need to find a way to enjoy in best possible wines, especially in the wines we like, but with good price and quality ratio. Moreover, we would like to enjoy in new tastes as often as we can. Did you ever walked through a foreign winery not knowing what to buy, like I did? As I red somewhere, “I felt like a mosquito in the nudist camp”. One way to access this valuable and reliable information is the use of the Internet.
Wine Library on the Internet Internet raspolaže „svim i svačim“, samo morate znati pronaći ono što vam treba. Jedna od mojih omiljenih vinskih internet adresa je http:// tv.winelibrary.com/. Internet, čije smo blagodati odavno upoznali, i ovaj put nas na originalan način upoznaje s obiljem najdivnijih kapi. Radi se o vinskoj TV knjižnici, na kojoj možete vidjeti dnevni internet web-prijenos na temu vina. Prva emisija je snimljena 21. veljače 2006. godine, a do danas ih je snimljeno 938 (22.10.2010.). U svakoj emisiji se degustira, opisuje i ocjenjuje 3 do 4 vina, od ponedjeljka do četvrtka, a petkom 1 do 2 vina s tim da se petkom nastavlja odgovarati putem facebook-a, twitter-a i naravno elektroničke pošte. Gary Vaynerchuk kuša, opisuje i ocjenjuje vino i to multimedijalno. Po meni, glavni nedostatak interneta je nemogućnost prenošenja
Internet is abound of “anything and everything”, you just have to find what you need. One of my favorite Internet wine addresses is http:// tv.winelibrary.com/. Internet, whose benefits we have met long ago, this time in original way also introduces to us richness of the most magnificent drops. It is about TV wine library, on which you can see daily Internet web-broadcast on wine topics. The first episode was recorded February 21th, 2006, a till today (22.10.2010.) there are 938 episodes recorded. In every episode 3 or 4 wines are being tasted, described and evaluated, from Monday to Wednesday, and on Fridays 1 to 2 wines, therewith the program continues with responds via Facebook, Twitter and, of course, via electronic mail. Gary Vaynerchuk tastes, describes and evaluates wines, and he does it mul-
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osjeta okusa i mirisa, tako da Garyja vidimo na slikama, videu, čitamo njegove ocjene i sl., no nažalost ne možemo i sami sudjelovati u kušanju zaista interesantnih vina koje Gary i njegovi gosti odabiru. Njegovi video zapisi su neformalni, jednostavni, nepretenciozni, sadržajni, dopadljivi i korisni. Gary Vayenerchuk je inače Rus (rođen je u Babruysk-u, u bivšem SSSR-u, danas Bjelorusija) s kojim su roditelji, kada mu je bilo 3 godine emigrirali u SAD. Stranica nudi zanimljiv sadržaj i odlično je koncipirana. Naslovna stranica sadrži posljednju emisiju te niz poveznica. Na vrhu se nudi 7 izbornika. Redom od lijeva prema desno: About Gary, Past Episodes, TV Shows, Wine Club, Gary’s Ratings, Schwag i WL Network. U izborniku prošle epizode ponuđene su podpoveznice na emisije prema mjesecu i godini kada su snimljene, te sortirane prema državama, vinskim regijama i slično. Ističem poveznicu Croatia, gdje se nude dvije emisije. Prva 553. epizoda, snimljena 7. listopada 2008. u kojoj Gary kuša, komentira i ocjenjuje: Vivoda Malvaziju 2006., Mihalj Graševinu 2006. i Zlatan Plavac Barrique 2004., visoko ocijenjen s 90 bodova. Druga, 798. epizoda snimljena 11. siječnja 2010. s gostom Cliffom Ramesom (enologom koji očito voli naša vina, inače porijeklom Hrvat po ocu), nudi prikaz slijedećih vina: Bibich Debit Lučica 2006. (ocijenjena s 80-81 boda), Clai Ottocento Crno 2007. (ocijenjen s 92 boda!), Bura 2006. (ocijenjena s 91 boda), i Enjingi Riesling 2006. Izbornik TV Shows nudi poveznice na emisije u kojima je Gary gostovao. Wine Club sadrži mogućnost učlanjivanja na 3 razine i kupovanja mo mo
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timedialy. As far as I’m concerned, main Internet disadvantage is lack of possibility to bring over taste and essence, so we see Gary on pictures and video clips, we read about his evaluations and so on, but unfortunately, we can not participate in tasting of really interesting wines which Gary and his guests choose. His video recordings are informal, simple, unpretentious, eventful, likeable and useful. Gary Vayenerchuk is Russian by birth (born in Babruysk, ex USSR, today Belarus) and his parents moved in USA with him when he was 3 years old. The page offers interesting content and is excellently conceived. Homepage contains last episode and number of links. There are 7 menus at the top. In order from right to left: About Gary, Past Episodes, TV Shows, Wine Club, Gary’s Ratings, Schwag and WL Network. In the menu from the last episode, sub-links were offered accordingly to month and year when recordings were made, and sorted by countries, wine-regions and similar. I point out the Croatia link, where two shows are offered. One episode – the 553rd – was recorded October 7, 2008, in which Gary tastes, comments and evaluates these wines: Vivoda Malvazija 2006, Mihalj Graševina 2006, and Zlatan Plavac Barrique 2004, highly rated, gaining 90 points. The other show, 798th, recorded January 11, 2011, with Cliff Rames as a guest (enologist who obviously likes Croatian wines, Croat by his father), offers a review of these wines: Bibich Debit Lučica 2006 (rated with 80-81 points), Clai Ottocento Crno 2007 (rated with 92 points!), Bura 2006 (rated with 91 points) and Enjingi Riesling 2006. TV Shows menu offers links on shows with Gary as a guest. Wine club offers possibility of joining
vina koje Gary zastupa i preporuča po navodno povoljnim cijenama. Gary’s Ratings nudi tablicu s imenima vina, njihovom cijenom, Gary-jeve ocijene (do 100 bodova), opisom svakog vina, poveznicama na stranice tih vina, te poveznicu na Gerijevu prezentaciju ocjenjivanja i slično. U izborniku Schwag možete kupiti razne rekvizite poput majica s različitim slikama. I na kraju, izbornik WL Network nudi kupovanje vina, sudjelovanje u forumima te traženje slika vinskih etiketa.
the membership on 3 levels and buying wines which Gary represents, allegedly at very favorable prices. Gary’s Ratings offers a table with wine names as well as their prices, Gary’s ratings (up to 100 points), description of every wine, links to these wines pages, and link to Gary’s ratings presentation, and so on. In the Schwag menu you can buy various articles like t-shirts with different pictures on them. And finally, WL Network menu offers wine shopping, participation in forums and search of wine label pictures.
Koliko je Vaynerchuk popularan govori i podatak da je 2009. godine s Harperstudiom potpisao ugovor o tiskanju 10 knjiga za više od milijun dolara te objavio prvu u nizu pod nazivom Crush it! Ta je knjiga u prvim tjednima nakon objavljivanja postala najbolje prodavana web marketing knjiga putem Amazona, zatim na drugom mjestu New York Times liste najbolje prodavane knjige i na sedmom mjestu Wall Street Journal liste najbolje prodavane knjige. Ukratko knjiga nudi rješenje zagonetke: Kako se baviti poslom koji nas veseli i bez puno ulaganja putem interneta zaraditi puno novaca? Obzirom na sve navedeno, nema razloga ne vjerovati kako je Gary najpozvaniji da o tome piše.
How popular Vaynerchuk is tells us the information that in 2009 he signed a more that one million dollars contract for publishing 10 books, and he published the first one under the name Crush It! That book climbed No.1 best seller list on Amazon web market in first weeks of its release, then it opened second place on New York Times list of best sellers, and then it was on seventh place on Wall Street Journal list of best sellers. In short, the book offers a solution to the riddle: How to do a job we like and make a lot of money using the Internet without big investments? Considering all that is said, there is no reason not to believe that Gary is most competent to write about it.
Želio bih da ovaj tekst ne bude samo zanimljivo štivo već i poticaj za slanje naših vina Gary-ju na ocjenjivanje. Možete mu pisati elektroničkom poštom – on će vam sigurno odgovoriti. Štoviše, najljepše bi bilo kada bi i Hrvati imali sličnu internetsku vinsku knjižnicu. Za to vam treba video kamera, računalo, pristup internetu i naravno znanje i puno dobre volje.
I would like for this text not only to be an interesting reading but also the stimulation for sending Croatian wines to Gary for evaluation. You can write him via electronic mail – he will respond for sure. As a matter of fact, it would be best if Croats had a similar Internet wine library. For that you need a video camera, a computer, access to Internet and, of course, knowledge and lots of good will.
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U svjetskoj ampelografiji malo je sorti grožđa koje se uspješno uzgajaju u različitim vinorodnim područjima, a baš ta vrlina učinila je sortu grožđa merlota jako privlačnom. Zbog toga se posljednjih godina mnogo sadi, pa se proširio po cijelom vin vinogradarskom svijetu. 10
In world ampelography there are few grape sorts successfully grown in different vineyard regions, and exactly that quality made the Merlot grape sort very attractive. Because of that, it’s planted quite a lot in recent years, so it’s spread along the whole world of vineyards.
Pripremio / Written by Želimir Bašić
Udomaćena svjetska sorta Naturalised world sort
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va sorta svoje podrijetlo vuče iz Francuske, točnije smatra se da je „rođena“ u okolici Bordeauxa. Nakon Drugog svjetskog rata, kada se loza počela masovno podizati plantažno, merlot se ušuljao i u naše vinograde. Danas je u Hrvatskoj svrstan među preporučene sorte u mnogim podregijama, kako u kontinentalnom, tako i primorskom dijelu. Kao prvo zaštićeno vino od sorte grožđa merlot, u kategoriji vrhunskih vina, navodi se merlot iz Rovinja, a potom je zaštićen onaj iz Poreča i Bujštine. U Dalmaciji se ova sorta sadi posljednjih godina i predstavlja uvezenu sortu koja se najbolje udomaćila kod nas (u Petrovu polju, Vrgoračkom polju- Jezeru i u Neretvi ), te daje vino izuzetne kvalitete. Vino je tamne rubin crvene boje, ukus je pun i harmoničan, te ima blagu oporost i nenametljivu trpkost s usklađenim odnosom svih njegovih sastojaka. Merlot je kao sorta pokazao svoju osobnost karakteriziranu prilagodljivosti podneblju sadnje. Premda zadržava svoje genetske osobine kroz sortni buke, ipak klima i zemlja daju vinu ove sorte svoju posebnost, pa se merlot znatno razlikuje od područja do područja. Tako i dalmatinski merlot, uz buke koji dobi-
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omeland of this sort is France; more precisely, it’s presumed that it is “born” in vicinity of Bordeaux. After the World War II, when mass production of grape wines began in plantations, Merlot sneaked in into our vineyards too. Today it’s included among recommended sorts in many sub-regions, in continental as well as coastal areas. In the topwines category, as the first protected wine from the Merlot grape sort, Merlot from Rovinj is mentioned, and after that Merlot from Poreč and Bujština was also protected. In Dalmatia this sort is grown in the recent years and represents an imported sort which became the domesticated sort here (in Petrovo polje, Vrgoračko polje-Jezero and in Neretva), and which endows best quality wine. The wine is dark ruby color, with rich and harmonic taste, with mild bitterness and unobtrusive acerbity with coherent ratio of all its ingredients. As a grape sort, Merlot unveiled its own identity characterized by adjustability to plantation climate. Although it retains its genetic characteristics through sorting bouquet, still, climate and soil give this sort’s wine its individuality, so Merlot significantly varies from one area to another.
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va od sorte, iskazuje osobnosti sob obn ob n sredine u kojoj raz azl ta iz iz se uzgaja, što ga čini različitim od merlota ot ima im i d 13,5 drugih krajeva. Merlot najčešće 111 do vol%, alkohola, a u poslijednje vrijeme osl slij i me stavlja se na odležavanje u barrique Šiberri riq q bačve (Drniš, Dr b nik i drugdje), što mu d daje dodatnu vrijednost i punoću okusa. Poslužuje od užuje se na temperaturi temper 17-18 ºC, uz bolja jela od tamnog mesa i plave ribe. Neki podsjećaju na sličnostt merl merlota s cabernetom sauvignonom, međutim smatram da nemaju baš puno dodirnih točaka, jer je ovajj prvi mnogo mekši i znatno manje opor. U Bordeauxu je merlot znatno rasprostranjeniji od caberneta i prevladava u mnogim glasovitim vinima sljubljenih sorti ( Chateau Petrus, Le Pin Bordeaux, Prremieres Cotes i mnoga druga). dru Merlot erlot je rasprostranjen i u drugim vinogradarskim im zemljamaa širom svijeta, jer ga krasi rodnost, dobro mrazeve, a otporan je t, d o podnosi mraz i na različite bolesti. U našim krajevima ičitte lozne bo posljednjih njih ih je godina god masovno prihvaćen. Tako u Petrovom polju, u sklopu drniškog vinogortrovom p ja ova se sorta dobro prilagodila i daje izvrsne s rezultate. Vino je tamne granitne boje, okus je rezultat pun, harmoničan, te ima nenametljivu trpkost usklađenim odnosom svih njegovih s us govih sastojaka. Analitički podatci ovog vinaa su obično takvi da An je šećer reduciran od 1 do 4 g/l (suho), alkohol jje 11 do 13 vol.%, ukupnih upnih kiselina ima 4,5 do 7 g/l, te ukupnog ekstrakta rakt od 22 do 29,5 g/l. Zanimljivo je da se prva preradba grožđa sorte merlot iz Petrova p polja obavila 1990. godine, neposredno pred najveće ratne operacije n d n Tako je prva promocija u domovinskom ratu. Ta drniškog vina merlot obavljena drn bavljena u Splitu 1991, jer je u to vrijeme Drniš bio okupiran od srpske srpsk paravojske i vojnika JNA koji su na primitivan aravo i način, čin, u zaposjednutoj vinariji, punili vino u boce stavljajući stavljaj etikete s ćiriličnim natpisima. Etiketa ovog vog vina, vin koju danas krasi crtež djela kipara Ivana Meštrovića, kao da podsjeća da se Meštrov nedaleko vinogradaa merlota u dnu Petrova polja uzdiže mauzolej glasovitog kipara. Najveći broj vina s kontroliranim podrijetlom od sorte mer merlot priprema se u Istri, a određete u primorskom dijelu ni manji broj u Kutjevu K primor Hrvatske. u Petrovom polju nasaU Dalmaciji, osim os n di merlota se šire u Vrgoračkom polju-Jezeru, l oračkom po polju-Jeze Konavlima, a u posljednje nje vrijeme vrijem i na otocioto ma. Većina vina ina od grožđa merlot svrstana je u kvalitetna vina, na, ali ima ih nekoliko koja su zaslužila vrhunsku u ku kategoriju. Neka odležavaju odleža barrique bačvama. bar ma
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Thus,, Da Dalmatian Merlot, with the bouquet gained from fro rom m the sort, also shows characteristics of the areas where it’s grown in, which makes eas w it different from fro the Merlot from other regions. Merlot mostt of often contains 11 to 13.5% vol. alf cohol, and iss re recently aged in Barrique barrels (Drniš, Šibenik nik and elsewhere), which provides it with additional ion value and fullness in taste. It is served in temperatures from 17-18 ºC, with tem various kinds vario ds of o finer meals. that Merlot resemblance to Some people peo le remind re Sauvignon, but I think they don’t have Cabernet Sauv common, because the first is a lot softer much in com co less bitter. In Bordeaux, Merlot and significantly signif gnific is considerably more prevalent than Cabernet conside also prevails in numerous mixed sort wines and als (Chateau Petrus, Le Pin Bordeaux, Premieres (Cha Cotes and many others). C Merlot is also widespread in other viticultural countries around the world because its good cou fertility, good tolerance to frost, and is also resistant to var various grapevine diseases. In Croatia ions it is grea regions greatly accepted. Thus in Petrovo v polje, within the vineyards of Drniš, this sort sted and p is well adjusted provides excellent results. Wine is dark granite co color; taste is full, harbtrusive b monic, with unobtrusive bitterness and coherngredient This wine’s anaent ratio of all its ingredients. sug is reduced to lytic data usually says that sugar 1 to 4 g/l (dry), alcohol is 11 to 13% vol., total acids 4.5 to 7 g/l and total extract 22 to 29.5 g/l. p Interesting thing is that thee first processing of ovo polje po was carMerlot grape sort from Petrovo mmedia ried out in the year 1990, immediately before n Cro largest military operations in Croatian War st pro of Independence. Thus the first promotion of Merlot wine from Drniš took place iin Split in D as the year 1991, because at the time Drniš was nd JNA soldiers ldiers occupied by Serbian militia and ting wine-cellar, w ne-cellar, who bottled the wine in a besetting abels on o them in and in primitive manner put labels whi hich today to Cyrillic script. This wine’s label,l, which is w f ornamented by a drawing of a work from the mos ost reminds rem sculptor Ivan Meštrović, almost that eya yard in the bottom not far from the Merlot vineyard ds famo fam of the Petrovo polje ascends famous sculptor’s mausoleum. es with controlled MerLargest number of wines ed in Is lot origin is prepared Istria, and certain number in Kutjevo and coa coastal region of Croatia. a, with th In Dalmatia, the exception of Petrovo polje, Merlot plantations are spreading ghout Vrgoračko Vrgo throughout polje-Jezero, Konavli, nd recently on islands as well. Most wines and from Mer Merlot grapes are classified as quality wines wine ew which deserve deserv top wines, but there are also few quality label. Some age in Barrique barrels.
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Povijesni susret vinskih velikana
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Miljenko Grgić & Enver Moralić
Hystoric encounter of famous wine producers O
sunčane južne padine Pelješca sa svojim vinogradarskim položajima dramatično se spuštaju prema moru. Zeleni vinogradi i maslinici na škrtoj zemlji pričaju povijest i tradiciju ovog kraja kroz stoljeća. Puno znoja, truda, znanja treba da bi se u skladu s prirodom dobilo samo najbolje što ona može dati. Ljubav čovjeka i vinove loze je najbolji dokaz ovog sklada i ravnoteže, a Pelješac je živo svjedočanstvo ovog odnosa. S pogledom na okolne vinograde dolazimo do vinarije Trstenik na Pelješcu. Veliki vinski susret i trenutak za povijest. Dogodio se i taj spontani, srdačni trenutak susreta dva velika vinska vizionara, karizmatika hrvatskog i svjetskog vinarstva, vinare nevjerojatne energije, vizije, mudrosti…, pogađate susret gdina Enver Moralića i gdina Miljenka Mike Grgića. Nevjerojatne vizije i želje za napretkom hrvatskih obojice vina kod oboji j ce vinskih gazda gazda je upravo fascinantna. n na nttna.
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unny south slopes of island of Pelješac with its vineyard locations dramatically fall towards the sea. Green vineyards and olivegroves on parsimonious soil are telling a story about this region’s history and tradition through centuries. A lot of sweat, hard work and knowledge were required, in accordance with nature, in order to obtain only the best from nature. Man’s love for grapevine is the best evidence of this harmony and balance, and Pelješac is living testimony to this relationship. Viewing surrounding vineyards we come to winery Trstenik on Pelješac. It is great wine encounter and historical moment. And so happened this spontaneous and kind encounter between two great charismatic visionaries of Croatian and worldly wine production, two wine producers with amazing energy, vision, wisdom… you’re guessing right – the encounter between Mr. Enver Moralić and Mr. Miljenko Mike Grgić. Unbelievable will Unbe Un beli be liev li evab ev a le ab l vvisions isio is ions io ns and and w wil illl for for making maki ma king ngg progress pro rogr g es gr esss in Croatian wines in both of wine-lords wine-lord ds is just fasf sfa cinating. cinating g.
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Gospodin Miljenko Mike Grgić je navršio 87 godina, a gdin. Enver Moralić 75 godina. Njihova ambicija i želja za napretkom hrvatske vinske scene i stvaranjem svjetske klase hrvatskih vina za izvoz, upravo je nevjerojatna. Ono što možemo svi zajedno od srca poželjeti za njih je dobro zdravlje i uspjeh u nakanama da ostvare svoje vinske vizije. U to ne sumnjamo jer su to pokazali svojim dosadašnjim rezultatima i željama za napredak hrvatskih vina i hrvatskog vinarstva općenito.
ENVER MORALIĆ Gospodin Enver Moralić podrijetlom je iz Kotor Varoši, a djetinjstvo i mladost proveo je u Banja Luci, u skromnoj obitelji s mnogo djece. Majka je bila kućanica, rodom od srednjovjekovnih bosanskih banova Kotromanića, a otac vozač u autobusnom poduzeću. Završetkom Poljoprivrednog fakulteta u Zagrebu, mislio je da će raditi na zemlji, ali okolnosti su ga odvele na druga područja, najprije u trgovinu umjetnim gnojivom i sredstvima za zaštitu bilja, a potom u naftni biznis. Ljubavi koje nosi u sebi od djetinjstva su zemlja i poljoprivreda, a to je i razlog zbog čega ju je studirao. Želja za ostvarenjem tog dječačkog sna se počela i ostvarivati povratkom u Hrvatsku, prvo kupnjom starih i godinama napuštenih 50 hektara vinograda Brič iznad Kopra, koje ponovo sadi atraktivnim istarskim sortama. Gradi se novi najmoderniji podrum na Briču, u kojem se proizvode ekološka vina, koja mogu dugo dozrijevati i postići maksimum kakvoće. Preuzimanjem ikone hr-
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Mister Miljenko Mike Grgić just turned 85, and Mr. Enver Moralić is 75 years of age. Their ambition and will for making progress in Croatian wine scene and achieving world class export of Croatian wines is just unbelievable. What we can all wish to them from the bottom of our hearts is good health and success in their intentions to fulfil their wine visions. We have no doubts about it since they have shown it with their present results and will for making progress in Croatian wines and Croatian wine production altogether.
ENVER MORALIĆ Mister Enver Moralić is from Kotor Varoš by birth, and he spent his childhood and adolescence in Banja Luka, in modest family with lots of children. His mother was housewife, she was descendant from medieval Bosnian Banus family Kotromanović and his father was driver in a bus company. After finishing Faculty of Agronomy in Zagreb he thought that he will work on land, but circumstances led him to other fields, first in artificial fertilizer and protective material market and then in oil business. Land and agriculture are devotions he carries within himself since childhood, and they are reason why he studied them. Desire for this childhood dream realization started to fulfil with his return to Croatia, first with buying 50 hectares of old vineyards Brič beyond Kopar that were deserted for years, and which he planted again with attractive sorts. Also, the new and most modern wine cellar is built in Brič, in which ecological wines are produced, with capa-
Jedan od velikana u svjetskoj industriji vina, hrvatsko-američki vinar i enolog poznat diljem svijeta. Hrabrost koju je imao kada je sa ukupno 32 $ skrivenih u potplat cipele napustio domovinu i obitelj, višestruko se vratila kroz uspjehe i slavu koju je stekao na drugoj strani svijeta. Njegova su postignuća i uspjesi priznati u ožujku 2008. godine primanjem u Vintners Hall of Fame. Miljenko Mike Grgich primljen je u Kuću slavnih među prvim vinarima, zajedno s nekim od najistaknutijih ličnosti u svijetu američkog vina, kao što su Robert Mondavi i Ernest i Julio Gallo. Trebao je proći težak, dug i zaobilazan put prije nego što će moći proizvoditi svoje vino u Kaliforniji, u području doline Napa. Gdin. Grgić je usavršavao svoje metode u tehnologiji proizvodnje primjenjujući metodu koju je naučio još od svojeg oca: svakog dana budi bolji, čini nešto bolje. Rezultat takvoga pristupa bio je Chardonnay, berbe 1973., koji je Grgić proizveo za vinariju Chateau Montelena, vino proglašeno najboljim chardonnayem 8 bijelim vinom na slavnoj degustaciji održanoj u Parizu 1976. godine, i to kao prvo vino novog svijeta koje je pobjedilo na tom natjecanju. Ostalo je povijest. Grgich Hills vina nastavila su osvajati prve nagrade na natjecanjima diljem svijeta, a često su se služila na službenim večerama u Bijeloj kući. Gdin Grgić nikad nije zaboravio svoj rodni kraj i porijeklo, te se početkom 1990. vratio u Hrvatsku sa željom da joj na bilo koji način pomogne. Znao je da najveći doprinos može dati upravo razvoju hrvatskog vinarstva kroz ulaganja u hrvatska vina kako bi ona postala svjetska klasa. Godine 1996. Otvorio je vinariju Grgić Vina u Trsteniku na Pelješcu, gdje proizvodi vrhunska vina od sorti Plavac mali i Pošip.
MILJENKO GRGIĆ Mister Miljenko Grgić is one of great figures in world wine industry, Croatian-American wine producer and oenologist known all around the world. Courage he had when he left his country and family with 32 $ hidden in the sole of shoes paid back multiple times through successes and fame he achieved on the other side of the world. His accomplishments and achievements were recognised in March 2008, by his admittance in the Vintners Hall of Fame. Miljenko Mike Grgić became a member of the Hall of Fame among the first wine producers, along with some of the most prominent figures in the world of American wines, like Robert Mondavi and Ernest and Julio Gallo. It took hard, long and roundabout way for him to be able to produce his wine in California, in the Napa Valley region. Mister Grgić perfected his methods in production technology applying the method he learned yet from his father: every day be better and better, do something better. Result of such approach was Chardonnay, vintage 1973, which Grgić produced for Chateau Montena winery, the wine declared to be the best Chardonnay and white wine on famous degustation kept in Paris 1976, namely as the first new world wine which won the contest. The rest is history. Grgich Hills wines continued to win first prises in contests all over the world, and were often served in official dinners in White House. Mr. Grgić never forgot his homeland and his origin, so in the beginning of 1990 he returned to Croatia with desire to help in any way he can. He knew that the best way for him to contribute is exactly through investment in Croatian wines so they can become a world class. In the year of 1996 he started the Grgić Vina winery in Trstenik in island of Pelješac, where he produce top quality wines from Plavac Mali and Pošip sorts.
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MILJENKO GRGIĆ
bility of long aging and achieving highest quality. With taking over the icon of Croatian wine production – Kutjevo d.d. winery, and by investing in new technologies in wine department, leading grape sort in Croatia is affirmed, our strongest and most famous wine brand Graševina. By that, a great step forward in quality is done towards the very top of the best wines in Croatia, as well as new premium and ultra-premium wine lines development labelled by the de Gotho brand. Kutjevo is becoming most awarded Croatian winery, nationally and internationally, and the biggest exporter of Croatian wines with around 40% of total Croatian export. By stepping forward on world wine stage, as well as strategic positioning in quantities for large markets, Mr. Moralić buys Đakovačka vina d.d. company which represent modern and perspective winery for realization of these plans.
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vatskog vinarstva - vinarije Kutjevo dd i velikim ulaganjem u nove tehnologije u vinskom dijelu, afirmira se vodeća sorta grožđa u Hrvatskoj, naš najjači i najveći vinski brand Graševina. Time se čini veliki iskorak u kakvoći prema špici vrhunskih vina Hrvatske, kao i razvijanjem novih linija premium i ultra premium vina pod markom de Gotho. Kutjevo postaje najnagrađivanija vinarija Hrvatske u zemlji i inozemstvu, te najveći izvoznik hrvatskih vina s oko 40% ukupnog hrvatskog izvoza. Iskorakom na svjetsku vinsku pozornicu kao i strateškim pozicioniranjem u količinama za velika tržišta, gosp. Moralić kupuje i Đakovačka vina dd koja predstavljaju modernu i perspektivnu vinariju za ostvarenje ovih planova.
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Interview Vino ima moć stvoriti zajedništvo oko stola, oko ugodnih tema, a naročito oko konstruktivnih i vizionarskih pravaca (čitajmo globalnog vinarskog razvoja), što će se na ovom susretu zasigurno dogoditi.
Wine has power to create collectiveness around the table, around pleasant issues, and especially around constructive and visionary directions (that is global wine development), which will surely happen in this encounter.
• Kako gledate na trenutnu hrvatsku vinsku scenu s obzirom na kvalitetu hrvatskih vina ? Gdin M.Grgić: Kvaliteta hrvatskih vina se popravlja i vidi se napredak, ali stalno treba uvoditi nešto novo. Vinarija Grgich&Hils već 33 godine svake godine uvodi nešto novo i inovativno. Hrvatska vinska scena se razvija brže nego ranije, ali treba još ubrzati. Put kojim treba ići je praviti vina svjetskog glasa, od hrvatskih najboljih i do sada dokazanih sorti grožđa. Gdin E.Moralić: U prvom redu to se odnosi na graševinu, plavac mali i malvaziju. Nitko u svijetu ne može napraviti bolja vina od tih sorti osim nas samih. Treba slušati potrošača, distributera, raditi istraživanja tržišta, pratiti trendove kod potrošača.
• How do you see current Croatian wine scene regarding quality of Croatian wines? Mr. M. Grgić: Quality of Croatian wines is improving and progress is noticeable, but it’s necessary to introduce something new all along. For already 33 years Grgich&Hill winery introduces something new and innovative each year. Croatian wine scene development is faster than it uses to be, but it needs to be faster. The right way to go is to make wines with world reputation, from best Croatian and heretofore proven sorts. Mr. E. Moralić: That refers to Graševina, Plavac Mali and Malvazija in the first place. No one in the world can make better wines from these sorts than us. We have to listen to consumers, distributers, make market researches and follow the consumer trends.
• Da li gospodarska kriza, pad tržišta vina kao i velike količine novih vina na tržištu koje je teško prodati, mogu uzrokovati propadanje pojedinih vinara ? Gdin M.Grgić: Trenutna situacija i kriza su dosta otežali situaciju za vinare i potrošnju vina u Hrvatskoj. To ne znači da bi trebalo prestati raditi i proizvoditi vino. Treba se držati mudrosti naših starih: ’’ Tko radi tvrdo, osiguran je za život.’’ , ali na novi način u aktualnom trenutku: ‘’ Radi tvrdo, misli pametno, osiguran je uspjeh.’’. U današnje vrijeme nije dovoljan samo rad već treba i pametan pristup vinima u smislu marketinga i prodaje. • Kako se država odnosi na poticanje izvoza hrvatskih vina ? Gdin E.Moralić: Hrvatska država se odnosi maćehinski prema temi izvoza hrvatskih vina, ili drugim riječima birokratski i bez interesa. Ne pomaže izvoz. Na tu temu smo i bili organizirali Vinski Forum hrvatskih vinara u Kutjevu, da poboljšamo izvoz. Nadamo se da će ta naša inicijativa dati rezultate. • Koji je glavni razlog da država ništa ne poduzima u kontroli sivog tržišta vina i velikom uvozu rinfuznog vina iz Makedonije i ostalih zemalja? Gdin E.Moralić: Neorganiziranost u smislu sivog tržišta osim što šteti vinarima, jako šteti i hrvatskoj državi jer država gubi značajne porezne prihode. Nije dobro da država u ovoj krizi nije dobar gospodar u svome dvorištu, te da potiče ovaj
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• Can current economic crisis, wine market recession, as well as large quantities of new wines on market which are hard to sold, cause fall down for some wine producers? Mr. M. Grgić: Current situation and crisis have significantly aggravated situation for wine producers and for wine consumption in Croatia. That doesn’t mean that work and production of wine should be stopped… We must hold on to wisdom of our ancestors: “One who works hard is secured for life”, but in a new way in actual moment: “Work hard, think smart, and success is guarantied.” Nowadays work alone is not enough, smart approach to wines within the meaning of marketing and selling is required. • What is state’s attitude towards Croatian wines export stimuli? Mr. E. Moralić: Croatia demonstrates step-motherly attitude towards Croatian wines export issue, or in other words, in bureaucratic way and without interest. It doesn’t provide any help in export. We organised Wine Forum for Croatian wine producers in Kutjevo regarding this subject, in order to improve export. We hope that this initiative of ours will give results. • What is the main reason for the state not to take anything in its power to control grey market of wine and large import of bulk wine from the Republic of Macedonia and other countries? Mr. E. Moralić: Disorganization in terms of grey market, besides damage to wine producers, also makes damage to the state of Croatia because it looses significant tax incomes. It’s not good thing that, during this crisis, the state manages things
segment tržišta u plasmanu vina. Pretpostavka je da sivo tržište pokriva 50-60% ukupne potrošnje vina u Hrvatskoj. Uvoz rinfuznih vina iz Makedonije predstavlja glavninu vinskog uvoza u Hrvatsku. Jeftina vina nezadovaljavajuće kvalitete, ali vrlo niske cijene ruše image ostalih hrvatskih vina. Neke velike hrvatske vinarije najveći promet ostvaruju upravo na takvim uvoznim rinfuznim vinima koja pune u Hrvatskoj. To kod krajnjeg potrošača može stvoriti potpuno krivu sliku o vinima općenito, odnosno gubitka potrošača kao vinoljupca i uživatelja vina.
so poorly in its own backyard, and that it encourages this segment of wine market placement. It is presumed that grey market covers around 50-60% of total wine consumption in Croatia. Bulk wine import from the Republic of Macedonia represents most of the wine import in Croatia. Cheap wines with unsatisfactory quality, but with very low prices, lower the image of rest of the Croatian wines. Some big Croatian wineries make most of the trade just on this imported bulk wines they bottle in Croatia. That can create a totally wrong picture about wine generally in end consumers, or it can possibly lead to loss of consumers like wine fans and wine enjoyers.
• Na koji način vidite strategiju za izlaz hrvatskih vina na zahtjevna tržišta zapadne Europe ? Gdin E.Moralić, Gdin M.Grgić: Strategija je vrlo jasna. Ona treba početi od dna piramide, a to su vinari. Udruživanje vinara na regionalnoj razini u glavnim vinskim regijama: Slavoniji, Istri, Dalmaciji, a zatim zajedničkim snagama iskorak prema vanjskim tržištima pod istim brandom vinske zemlje Hrvatske. Iskorak prema vani treba graditi samo na kvaliteti i autohtonim specifičnostima koje imamo kao vinarska zemlja. Treba također znati prihvatiti sve izazove otvorenog tržišta i jake konkurencije na tim tržištima.
• In what way do you see the strategy for Croatian wines introduction to demanding Western Europe markets? Mr. E. Moralić, Mr. M. Grgić: Strategy is very clear. It should start from the bottom of the pyramid, and that is wine producers. Wine producers associations on regional level in main wine regions – Slavonia, Istria, Dalmatia, followed by unified effort to enter outer markets under the same brand of Croatia - land of wine. Entering foreign markets should be based solely on quality and autochthon specificities which we do have as a wine country. Also, we need to know how to accept challenges from open market and strong competition on these markets.
• Koje sorte bijelih i crnih vina imaju najbolji potencijal za izvoz ? Gdin E.Moralić, Gdin M.Grgić: Sorte koje imaju najveći potencijal su graševina, plavac mali, malvazija. Ne treba zanemariti sve druge sorte, ali ako govorimo o ozbiljnijim količinama onda su to navedene tri sorte. Da bi se osigurao uspjeh treba biti osigurana kvaliteta i dovoljna količina.
• Which sorts of white and red wines have the best potential for export? Mr. E. Moralić, Mr. M. Grgić: Sorts with biggest potential are Graševina, Plavac Mali and Malvazija. Other sorts shouldn’t be avoided, but if we talk about serious quantities, that would be three mentioned sorts. In order for success to be guarantied,
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• Jesu li naša vina i naše sorte grožđa poznati u svijetu ? Gdin M.Grgić: Ne. Svi dosadašnji pojedinačni plasmani hrvatskih vina na američko tržište nisu bitno utjecali na prepoznatljivost nas kao vinske zemlje i naših vina. Problem su nedovoljne količine vina za ozbiljniji izvoz, marketing koji ne postoji, te nemogućnost američkog potrošača da se direktno upozna kroz promocije i tasting sa našim vinima. Mnogo se investiralo u poticanje kapitalnih ulaganja i sadnju vinograda gdje su napravljeni pomaci, što je dobro, ali se s druge strane ni lipa se nije uložila u brendiranje Hrvatske kao vinske zemlje. Rezultat takve nerazmjerne i nepromišljene politike poticaja jest to da danas imamo pune podrume vina, što može dovesti do toga da se uruši kvaliteta vina tako što bi se dio vinara opredijelio za proizvodnju prosječnih vina. • Kako gledate na taj problem ? Gdin M.Grgić: Kad god jedan vinar uspije, to je uspjeh za sve vinare. Država treba da pomaže svakom vinaru , velikom i malom, na putu do uspjeha. Gdin E.Moralić: Često država nema sluha, a hrvatske vinare je teško sakupiti. Svaki vinar ima svoju filozofiju. Gdin M.Grgić: Slična situacija je bila i u USA prije 50 godina, ali malo po malo su tamošnji vinari shvatili da samo zajedno mogu ostvariti napredak. Dobar početak je pola puta. • Koliko trend porasta uvoza vina može ugroziti naše vinare ?
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adequate quality and sufficient quantity should be provided. • Are our wines and our grape sort known in the world? Mr. M. Grgić: No. Every present individual placement of Croatian wines to American market didn’t make significant influence on our recognisability as wine country and our wines. Problem is insufficient quantities for serious export, nonexisting marketing and lack of possibility for American consumer to directly meet our wines through promotions and tasting. There were significant investments in stimulations of vineyards planting and some progress have been made here, which is good, but on the other hand, not one cent wasn’t invested in branding Croatia as the country of wine. The result of such unequal and rash politics is that today we have wine cellars full of wine, which can lead to lowering the quality of wine in a way that some wine producers might destine themselves for average wine production. • How do you see this problem? Mr. M. Grgić: Whenever one wine producer succeeds, that is success for all wine producers. State should help each and every wine producer, big one as well as small one, on their way to success. Mr. E. Moralić: State often lacks the will, and Croatian wine producers are hard to unify. Every wine producer has their own philosophy. Mr. M. Grgić: Similar situation happened in USA some 50 years ago, but little by little wine producers there apprehended that only together they can achieve progress. A good start is a half way to success. How much can trend of increased wine import imperil our wine producers?
• Smatrate li da je jedno od mogućih rješenja udruživanje vinara ? Gdin E.Moralić, Gdin M.Grgić: To je jedini način i mogućnost jačeg nastupa prema vanjskim tržištima. Treba djelovati brzo i egzaktno. Vinari se trebaju objediniti pod zajedničkim interesom i direktno istupiti pred Vladu RH sa gotovim programom i ciljevima u kojima država treba pomoći.
• Do you think that wine producers association is one of possible solutions? Mr. E. Moralić, Mr. M. Grgić: That is the only way and possibility for stronger entrance on foreign markets. We need to act fast and exact. Wine producers must unite under mutual interest and step directly in front of Government of the Republic of Croatia with ready program and aims in which they need help from the state.
• Je li potrebno izabrati najbolja vina iz svih regija za nastup na svjetskom tržištu ? Gdin E.Moralić: Kvaliteta je sigurno prioritet s kojim treba nastupiti na vanjskim tržištima. Kutjevo dd izvozi 40% svih hrvatskih vina ukupno. Taj izvoz ne bi bio moguć da nemamo kontinuitet kvalitete koje potrošači cijene i vjeruju mu.
• Is it necessary to choose the best wines from all regions for entrance on world market? Mr. E. Moralić: Quality is undoubtedly the priority with which we should enter foreign markets. Kutjevo d.d. exports 40% of total Croatian wines. That export would not be possible if we did not have continuity of quality in which consumers trust and which they appreciate.
• Kako se dvije hrvatske regije mogu jače povezati (Dalmacija sa Slavonijom ) kako bi kvalitetan domaći proizvod došao do stola krajnjeg potrošača, odnosno turista koji će na osnovu enogastronomskog užitka stvoriti pozitivan, ili negativan dojam o Hrvatskoj ? Gdin E.Moralić: Kvaliteta se uvijek prepoznaje. Porijeklo, ili regija naglašavaju lokalne specifičnosti i one su bogatstvo i prednost. Glavni problem u Hrvatskoj je prevelika razlika cijene vina kod podrumara i cijene vina na vinskoj karti. Naručiti vino u velikoj većini restorana u Hrvatskoj često stvara nelagodu zbog cijene tog vina. Time nitko ne dobiva; niti vinar, niti ugostitelj.
• How can two Croatian regions connect better (Dalmatia with Slavonia), in order for quality domestic product to reach the end consumer’s table, or a tourist who will, based on enogastronomic enjoyment, gain positive or negative impression about Croatia? Mr. E. Moralić: Quality is always recognizable. Origin, or region, emphasizes local specificities and they are fortune and advantage. Main problem for Croatia are too large differences in prices of wine in wine cellars and in wine cards. Ordering a wine in great majority of restaurants often creates discomfort due to price of wines. No one gains by that; neither wine producer or caterer.
• U proizvodnji se dosta polaže na ekološku proizvodnju, kakav je smjer i trenutni nivo razvoja vaših vinarija u tom pogledu ? Gdin. E.Moralić: Vinarija Brič koju smo napravili i osnovali na samoj granici Slovenije i Hrvatske je zasnovana na kompletnoj biodinamičkoj i organskoj proizvodnji. Zemlja na kojoj je podignut vinograd veličine 35 ha je ‘prije sadnje bila ‘’djevičanska zemlja’’, jer na njoj nije nikad uzgajana bilo kakva kultura. Trend je u svijetu ulaganja u organsku proizvodnju, a i tržišni potencijal za ovakva vina je dosta velik i on je u uzlaznom trendu. Projekt jednog crnog vina od sorte Refošk kojeg smo nazvali ‘’Vinagra’’ je pokazao odlične rezultate u djelovanju na zdravstveno stanje organizma (antibakterijsko i antioksidativno djelovanje) kao i na poboljšanje krvne slike. Cijeli projekt je vođen od strane Medicinskog fakulteta
In process of wine production great deal is put on ecological production, what is direction and current level of development of your wineries in this regard? Mr. E. Moralić: Brič winery which we built and established on very border between Slovenia and Croatia is completely based on biodynamic and organic production. Land on which vineyard size 35 hectares was built, was “virgin soil” before planting because no culture was ever planted there. Investing in organic production is world trend, and also market potential for these wines is quite significant, and this trend is rising. A red wine project from Refošk sort we named “Vinagra” showed excellent results regarding effects on human health (antibacterial and antioxidation effect) as well as blood count improvement. The whole project was conducted by Faculty of Medicine in Split, led by Prof. Dr. Boban and his
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Mr. E. Moralić: Wine market is becoming more open and without stronger control from the state in bulk wine import, situation will undoubtedly become unfavourable for our wine producers. Import of quality wines is not questionable, because such wines surely represent a good standard of price vs. quality ratio, and with this standard our wines should compete and compare. Problem with import is that almost 90% import goes to bulk wines.
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Gdin E.Moralić: Tržište vina postaje sve otvorenije i bez jače državne kontrole u uvozu rinfuznog vina sigurno će se situacija razvijati nepovoljno za naše vinare. Uvoz kvalitenih vina nije upitan, jer takva vina ipak predstavljaju jedan dobar standard omjera cijena vs kvaliteta s kojim se naša vina trebaju natjecati i komparirati. Problem uvoza je što skoro 90% uvoza otpada na rinfuzna vina.
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Split, na čelu sa Prof.dr. Bobanom te njegovim timom. Vino će uskoro doći na tržište, a čak razmišljamo da ga ponudimo u veledrogerije kao lijek za poboljšavanje općeg stanja organizma i krvne slike. Gdin. M.Grgić: Vinarija Grgich Hills cijelu proizvodnju zasniva na biodinamičkim principima proizvodnje jer tu vidimo ostvarenje naše vizije razvoja i smjera u kojem želimo ići. Za primjer bi rekao da jako puno ulažemo u kućice za ptice koje rade jako korisne stvari u kontroli nametnika i štetnih insekata, te smo jako zadovoljni rezultatima. Ekološka proizvodnja ima i druga ulaganja i principe, te je ona dosta skuplja od konvencionalnog uzgoja vinove loze. Potrošački trendovi su okrenuti ovom načinu proizvodnje, jer potrošač danas želi znati i kako je grožđe odgajano u vinogradu.
team. Wine will soon enter the market, and we are even thinking about offering it to pharmaceutical wholesalers as a remedy for general system condition as well as blood count improvement. Mr. M. Grgić: Grgich Hills winery bases its entire production on biodynamical principles because in this we see the fulfilment of our vision of development and direction to where we want to go. For instance, I would like to say that we are investing quite a lot in bird houses, since birds are very useful in controlling parasites and other insects, and so we are quite satisfied with results. Ecological production requires other investments and principles also, so it is significantly more expensive than conventional grapevine planting. Consumer trends are turning to this way of production, because today consumer also wants to know how the grapes were raised in a vineyard.
• Vino je inspiracija za mnoge stvari, a najviše se povezuje kroz ljubav. Ljubav prema vinu, ljubav prema ženi; kako biste povezali te dvije ljubavi ? Gdin M.Grgić: Znate, muškarcu trebaju dvije stvari. To su dva ‘’w’’. Jedno je ‘’wine’’, a drugo je ‘’wife’’. Ženi trebaju tri stvari. To su tri ‘’m’’. Jedno je ‘’money’’, drugo je ‘’merlot’’ i treće je ‘’men’’. Gdin E.Moralić: Živjeli ! Vino je ljubav koja svake dolazeće godine daje novi zanos i radost.
• Wine is inspiration for many things, but it’s mostly connected to love. Love for wine, love for woman; how would you connect these two loves? Mr. M. Grgić: You know, men need two things. These are two “W”s. One is “wine” and the other is “wife”. Women need three things. These are three “M”s. One is “money”, second is “merlot” and the third is “men”. Mr. E. Moralić: Cheers! Wine is love which each forthcoming year gives new enthusiasm and joy.
predstavljamo
KNJIGA "MANE VINA" autor: EDMUND LEMPERLE
godina izdanja: 2009.
Uzrok manama vina su vanjski faktori, a prouzročene su fizikalno-kemijskim i fizikalnim procesima. Mane uzrokuju promjene organoleptičkih svojstava i utječu na kemijski sastav vina. Oni su posebice nebriga u toku berbe, prerade i njege vina, a očituju se uglavnom u pojavi nepovoljnog okusa i mirisa vina. Predgovor hrvatskom izdanju: KNJIGU MOŽETE NARUČITI PUTEM NAŠE REDAKCIJE NA KONTAKT Telefon: +385 21 582 480 Fax: +385 21 584 382 E-mail: info@vinum.in.
U vrijeme kad se u Hrvatskoj ulažu veliki organizacijski i financijski napori u podizanju suvremenih nasada vinove loze, koji će dati grožđe vrhunske kakvoće za proizvodnju vina, osjetili smo potrebu prevesti i objaviti ovu knjigu . Zašto baš knjiga ovog naslova? Danas se u Hrvatskoj proizvodnjom vina bave kako velike vinarske tvrtke, tako i mnoštvo malih ili nešto većih proizvođača. Tehnološka opremljenost i laboratoriji opremljeni adekvatnom opremom te stručnim osobljem, različito su dostupni tijekom procesa proizvodnje. Međutim svima onima koji se bave proizvodnjom vina zajednička je težnja proizvesti „velika vina“, vina pitka, užitna, pamtljiva, vina koja su preslika mikrolokacije (terroira). Ne zavaravajmo se, put je težak, na putu se pojavljuje mnogo zamki i nepoznanica i svjesni toga želimo vam pomoći dajući vam u ruke prijevod ove knjige. Ona će vam dati odgovore na mnoga pitanja koja ste često postavljali sebi, ali i drugima, jer niste bili u mogućnosti na hrvatskom jeziku pronaći odgovarajuću literaturu koja bi vam jednostavno
i lako razumljivo pomogla, prvenstveno u prepoznavanju mana vina. Knjiga „Mane vina“ napisana je izvorno za njemačko govorno područje, a objavljena je u jesen 2006. godine. Čitajući je vidjet ćete kako su vam sve opisane mane poznate, možda ste se s nekima u praksi susretali, a neke i otklanjali. Knjiga će vam posvijestiti važnost pravovremenog prepoznavanja svih onih pojava koje nisu karakteristične za vino, te da ih uz pomoć struke ili uz pomoć ove knjige što je moguće ranije otklonite, jer ćete na taj način uštedjeti vrijeme, a poglavito novac. U dobroj vjeri kako će vam knjiga samo u rijetkim prilikama biti od koristi, želim vam pomoći odnjegovati vino kojim ćete biti zadovoljni, štoviše, na koje ćete biti ponosni. Ako ste uspjeli, predlažem popijte decilitar vina u zdravlje ljudi koji su uložili trud u dobroj vjeri da će vam knjiga biti od pomoći. Živjeli! Urednik: Ante Miličević, dipl. ing. U Požegi, ožujak 2009.
Matuško MATUŠKO DINGAČ Posebno P b osunčano č tlo tl na jjužnim ž i padinama di poluotoka Pelješca: iznad djevičanskih uvala, na obroncima gdje su vinogradi na strminama nagiba i do 70%, u ekološki zdravom predjelu je dom Dingača. Preko 2800 sunčanih sati godišnje, uz morsku sol nošenu južinama, ljubi ovu specijalnu i kvalitetnu sortu grožđa. Dingač, odnjegovan u tišini hrastovih bačava, tamno rubin crvene je boje s ljubičastim preljevima, kristalno je bistar, punog i zaobljenog okusa, harmoničan, trpkast i slatkast.
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rno vino MATUŠKO DINGAČ - već je poznato i priznato u svijetu kao vrhunsko vino najplemenitije sorte s glasovitog položaja Dingač na Pelješcu. Ne zaostaje u kvaliteti ni Plavac Mali, poznate autohtone sorte Dalmacije, a slijede ga i ostala vina iz Matuško vinarije. U Matuškovim podrumima, duboko ispod zemlje, razvija se raskošan okus vina, koje svako jelo pretvara u gozbu. Bijela i crna Matuško vina, jednom kušana, postaju nezaobilazan dio kako svetkovina, tako i svakidašnjeg obroka. U malom mjestu Borak, neposredno ispod glasovitih vinograda, s onu stranu tunela Dingač, nalazi se konoba gdje ćete, kao malo gdje, moći uživati istovremeno u iznimnoj kvaliteti jela, začinjene sa extra djevičanskim, hladno prešanim Matuško maslinovim uljem i vrhunskom bijelom ili crnom vinu. Uz neponovljiv pogled i kristalno čisto more, tu je i jedna od najljepših prirodnih plaža na Pelješcu. Ovog ljeta otvoren je i drugi dio Matuškovih podruma, ukopanih duboko pod zemljom i uređenih u toplom i domaćem ozračju, o kojemu su dosadašnji posjetitelji već raznijeli glas kao o iznimnom doživljaju.
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ed wine MATUŠKO DINGAČ – is already known and recognized wine in the world as the top-line wine from most precious grapes from the renowned Dingač location in peninsula of Pelješac. Plavac Mali, made from a famous autochthonous Dalmatian sort, does not fall behind either, and other wines from Matuško vinery follow it. In Matuško’s wine cellars, deep under ground, magnificent wine taste develops, which turns every meal in to a feast. Once tasted, red and white Matuško wines become unavoidable part of festivities as well as every day meals. In a small place of Borak, directly beneath the famous vineyards, on the other side of Dingač tunnel, a tavern is placed where you can enjoy in the same time, like in very few places, in: extraordinary food quality, spiced with extra-virgin cold pressed Metuško olive oil, and top-line red or white wine. With unrepeatable view and crystal clear sea, there is also one of the most beautiful beaches in the peninsula of Pelješac. This summer, the second part of Matuško’s wine cellar was opened as well, embedded deep under ground and arranged in warm domestic environment, about which present visitors already spread the word as an exceptional experience.
vina - jedna od najpoznatijih hrvatskih vinarija wines - one of the most prominent Croatian wineries
MATUŠKO DINGAČ Partic Particularly Part iccul ular larly ly sun sun lit lit ground gro roun u d on o the the he south ssou outh ou th slopes ssllo lope pess of o peninsula of Pelješac: above virgin coves, on the slopes where vineyards are placed on acclivities which reach up to 70%, in ecologically healthy part is home of Dingač. Over 2800 sunny hours per year, with sea salt carried by south winds, kisses this special and high quality grape. Dingač, nurtured in the silence of oak barrels, is dark ruby color with purple shades, crystal clear, with full and rounded taste, harmonic, sourish and sweetish.
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MIRISI I OKUSI ISTARSKOG TERROIRA
AROMA AND TASTE OF ISTRIAN TERROIR
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alvazija je, suprotno popularnom mišljenju, stara sorta koja vuče korijene iz grčkog grada na Peloponezu – Monemvasie. Ključnu ulogu u širenju malvazije odigrali su Mlečani koji su ime toga grada prekrstili u Malvazija (“Malvasia”) i trs kojeg su ponijeli iz Grčke nazvali tim imenom. U doba Mletačke republike malvazija je stekla svoju popularnost, a kao dokaz tome činjenica je da su u to doba sve konobe (“osterie”) u kojima se posluživalo to vino bile zvane Malvazie. Danas je raširen uzgoj više vrsta malvazije (Malvazia delle Lipari , Malvazija nera di Lecce, Malvasia del collio friuliano...), ali je najpoznatija istarska malvazija. U tlu i klimi Istre je ovaj trs pronašao svoj idealni habitat, što se očituje i u mirisu i okusu ove malvazije. Oduvijek najpoznatije istarsko vino, u ranim je devedestim godinama valorizirano u svojim najtipičnijim formama te je dostiglo svoj puni sjaj. Danas je „malvasia istriana“ vrlo popularna te ima status jednog od najprepoznatljivijih hrvatskih vinskih brandova. Vinogradi malvazije Medea prostiru se na ukupno 27 hektara zemljišta na području općine Medulin, na južnom dijelu istarskog poluotoka. Trsovi malvazije rastu na odabranim pozicijama – na blago nagnutim terenima, osunčanim južnim i jugoistočnim padinama, te daju grozdove visoke kvalitete. Vinogorje naše malvazije smješteno je na posebnoj, dubokoj, degradiranoj crvenici koja vinu daje puniju boju, sa jasnim žutim odsjajem. Malvazija Medea reflektira sve poznate karakte-
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alvazija, contrary to popular belief, is an old variety that has its roots in the Greek town in the Peloponnese - Monemvasia. Key role in the spread of Malvasia was played by the Venetians who have renamed of the city in Malvasia and the vine which was brought from Greece called by that name. In the Venetian republic, Malvasia gained its popularity, and as a proof stands a fact that at that time all the taverns (“osteria”) which served the wine was called Malvazie. Today, the cultivation of several types of Malvasia is widespread (Malvazia delle Lipari, Malvasia Nera di Lecce, Malvasia del Collio friulian ...), but the most famous is Istrian Malvasia. This vine founds the soil and climate of Istria as an ideal habitat, which is reflected in the aroma and taste of Malvasia. Although always the most famous Istrian wine, in the early years of the nineties it has been valorised in it’s most typical forms, and has reached it’s full splendor. Today “Malvasia istriana” is very popular and has the status of one of the most recognizable Croatian wine brands. Vineyards of Malvasia Medea spread over a total of 27 acres of land in the municipality of Medulin, on the southern part of the Istrian peninsula. Vines grow in selected locations - on a slightly sloping terrain, sunny south and south-eastern slopes, and provide high quality clusters. Our Vineyard Malvasia is located on a special, deep red soil (crvenica) which gives to a wine a fuller color, with clear yellow glow. Malvasia Medea reflects all the known characteristics of its variety and this wine is a good fit in a diverse range of culinary delights. Thanks to the aforementioned growing factors, it has a prominent fruity
Medea Malvazija ristike svoje sorte pa se ova vina dobro uklapaju u raznolik spektar gastronomskih delicija. Radi prije navedenih karakteristika uzgoja, ističe se naglašena voćna aroma te pun, zaokružen okus. Medea malvazije vina su koja se uživaju tijekom dana; kao nezaobilazno lagano vino uz ručak; prijaju i uz večeru ili se degustiraju dobro ohlađena, kao aperitiv. Upravo je zato konstantno podizanje kvalitete jedan od naših prioriteta kod kojeg nema kompromisa. Malvazija Medea je, za razliku od ostalih istarskih malvazija, vrlo živahno i svježe vino. Žive je slamnatožute boje s zelenkastim odsjajem, sjajne tipične boje za malvazije “juga”. Mirisno je postojano vino s naglašenom notom bijelih cvjetova , posebice akacije. Uz lagano miješanje otvara se i na vidjelo izlazi aroma vinogradarske breskve (bijelog mesa) te citrusa – prvenstveno limete i žutog grejpa. Mirovanjem u čaši dominantni postaju upravo prije navedeni cvijetovi citrusa. Njegovi će atributi najbolje doći do izražaja kad se servira ohlađeno na 10-12 ‘C Malvazija Medea Montiron okusno je puna, zaokružena, s naglašenom notom mineralnosti koja joj daje ugodnu svježinu. Retronazalno dominira aroma bijelih cvjetova akacije i citrusa. Srednje je dugog završetka. Lijepo razvijenih “vinskih suza”, izbalansiranih slatkasto kiselkastih senzacija i nakon dužeg vremena mirisno je postojana u čaši. Odlično se nadopunjava uz tjesteninu s bijelim umacima i rižoto, a dobro rashlađeno pije se i samo, kao aperitiv.
aroma and full, rounded flavor. Medea Malvasia is wine for enjoying throughout the whole day, as the unavoidable light wine with lunch and with dinner, or to taste it good chilled as an aperitif. That is the reason why constantly improving the quality become one of our priorities in which there is no compromise. Malvasia Medea is, unlike other Istrian Malvasia, a very lively and fresh wine. Vivid color is straw yellow, with greenish reflections, and bright colors are typical for Malmsey “south”. It has stable fragnant with a strong note of white flowers, especially acacia. It gently opens itself in glass, and the aroma of vineyard peaches (white meat) and citrus fruits emerges out - mainly lime and yellow grapefruit. By standing in a glass, before mentioned flowers of citrus becomes dominant. His best attributes will come into play when it is served chilled at 10-12 ‘C. Malvasia Medea Montiron has full, rounded taste, with a strong note of minerality that gives it a pleasant freshness. Aftertaste is dominated by aromas of white flowers, acacia and citrus. It has a medium long finish. It is beautifully developed, “the wine of tears,” with balanced sweet sensation, and after some time becomes stable in the glass. It perfectly complements the pasta with white sauces and risotto, and also as a well-chilled aperitif drink.
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Piše: Želimir Bašić
Sangria
Odškrinuta tajna pripremanja Sangrije
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vako piće ima svoju priliku, ima tradiciju i običaj. Pića su pjevana i opjevana, dio su narodne osobitosti i folklora. O raznim pićima stoljećima traje narodna predaja, o njima se pišu knjige i reportaže, uvrštavaju se u turističke prospekte, a u slavu nekih upriličuju se i fešte. Većina pića vezana je za više zemalja, međutim jedno- sangrija- isključivo podsjeća na Španjolsku. I dok je Katalonski parlament odlučio zabraniti jednu od najstarijih okrutnih tradicija na Pirenejskom poluotoku - borbu bikova koja je svake godine privlačila milijune turista, i koja se održava od davne 1726., drugu tradiciju slaganja Sagrije Španjolci ljubomorno čuvaju gotovo u svim krajevima. Iako se pojavljuje u trgovinama pakirana u bocama, Sangrija se najčešće sprema neposredno, na licu mjesta. Receptura za pravljenje Sangrije je tajna koja se često ljubomorno čuva i prenosi od oca na sina. Zbog toga je teško reći koji su njeni sastojci, pogotovo jer postoji nekoliko vrsta sangnrjia, u ovisnosti od područja u kome se izrađuje. Međutim svi se slažu da je osnova vino kojemu se dodaje razno voće, voćni sokovi i likeri ili druge žestice. Počinje se od crnog vina, primjerice merlot ili cabernet sauvignon, iako se u nekim područjima priprema i na bazi bijelog vina. Na litru vina ide čaša stopostotnog voćnog soka te prema želji komadići voća, a to je najčešće jabuka i limun, ali zna se dodati i breskva, banana, kivi, dinja grožđe i naranča. Može se dodati i malo likera, ruma ili brandyja, te mineralne vode kako bi se mješavina malo zapjenila. Preporuča se Sangriju spremiti u hladnjak da odleži, jer će se tako okusi najbolje prožeti, a ako se priprema za neposrednu konzumaciju nužno je da je vino hladno i da se poslužuje sa dosta leda. Međutim pravu Sagriju možete piti jedino u Španjolskoj, posebno u Madridu Prisjećam se mog boravka u Španjolskoj kada sam poželio kušati sagriju. Upozoren sam da prava sangrija nije ona koja se nudi u bocama u stotinu varijanti i s različitim etiketama, za koje mnogi znaju reći da to „ nema veze sa izvornom sangriom“. Mnogi ističu da ako se želi doživjeti Španjolsku, sa svim njenim atraktivnostima, treba gucnuti gutalj Sangrije, jer ako se ne osjeti njen okus, niste ni osjetili Španjolsku. Oboružan korisnim savjetima i u društvu nekoliko prijatelja, pošao sam na prvu degustaciju Sangrije. Izabrali smo posjećeni bar u centru, jer su nam rekli da je tu Sangrija najbolja. Bo lokali se u Madridu, a prostor se obično Bolji
Vinska čarolija s pirinejskog poluotoka Wine magic from peninsula iberica
a Written by: Želimir Bašić
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Ako niste osjetili okus sangrije, ne možete osjetiti ni Španjolsku.
Secret of Sangria making revealed
If you have not tasted Sangria, you can not feel Spain either.
very drink has its opportunity, its tradition and its customs. There are songs written and singed about wine, and it is a part of national characteristics and folklore. There are national narrative going on for centuries about various drinks, there are books and reviews written about them, they are enlisted in tourist prospectuses and even fiestas are held in the glory of some of them. Most drinks are connected to many countries, however, one of them – Sangria – suggests only of Spain. And while Catalonian parliament decided to ban one of the oldest and most cruel traditions on Peninsula Iberica – bullfight – which used to bring some tourists over and which was held since 1726, the other tradition, tradition of preparing Sangria, Spaniards jealously treasure in almost all regions. Although it can be found in shops packed in bottles, Sangria is most oftenly prepared immediately, on the spot. Recipe for making Sangria is secret which is often jealously kept and passed from father to son. Because of that it is hard to say what the ingredients are, especially because there are few variations of Sangria, depending on region in which it is made. Nevertheless, everyone agrees that the base for making Sangria is wine in which various fruits, fruit juices and liquors or other spirits are added. Sangria making begins with red wine, such as Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon, although in some regions it is prepared on the basis of white wine too. One glass of 100% fruit juice goes in one liter of wine, and pieces of fruit at will, most often apple and lemon, but it can also be peach, banana, kiwi, melon, grape and orange. Some liquor, rum or brandy, and mineral water can be added in order for mixture to froth up a bit. It is recommended that Sangria is put in the cooler so it can age, because that way tastes can blend in the best way, and if it is prepared for immediate consummation it is necessary for the wine to bi cooled and served with lots of ice. However, you can drink real Sangria only in Spain, especially in Madrid. I remember my first stay in Spain, when I wished to try Sangria. I was warned that real Sangria is not the one offered in bottles in hundred variations and with different labels, for which many people use to say: “That’s got nothing to do with original Sangria”. Many people point out that if one wants to experience Spain with all its attractivenesses, one should take a sip of Sangria, because if you did not taste it, you did not feel Spain. Armed with useful advices and in accompanied by few friends, I went for my first Sangria degustation. We chose a frequently visited bar down the center, because they told us Sangria ria
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poslije zatvaranja. U potrazi za dobrom sangrijom, uputili smo se u jedan takav. Da smo na dobrom putu, podsjećao nas je pod – cijeli je bio prekriven otpacima. Gotovo sa samih vrata izustio sam naučenu rečenicu „Una Sangria por favor“, a konobar je lako prepozano da smo stranci. Vještina u pripremanju Sangrije veoma se cijeni, i s kvalitetom tog pića stječe se i razina ugleda ugostitelja, pa oni koji je znaju dobro pripremati vole se dokazivati. „Camarero“ je izvukao veliki zemljani vrč i vješto zaklonio vidik da ne bismo otkrili tajnu pripremanja pića. Ipak, tjerala me znatiželja, pa sam krišom provirivao. Pomagalo mi je i ogledalo na suprotnoj strani, pa sam uspio barem malo odškrinuli vrata te tajne. Poslužitelj je najprije ulio u vrč vino, pa dodao dvije prepolovljene naranče, potom iscijedio jedan limun i njega ubacio u vrč. Sve je dobro izmiješao i dodao malo papra i nekih drugih sastojaka, koje nisam mogao raspoznati. Iscijedio je, na kraju, neko mediteransko voće i sangrija je bila pripremljena za piće. Prvi gutljaj otkrio nam je da je piće specifične arome različito od svih poznatih. Vrlo je pitko i djeluje osvježavajuće. Španjolci ga, kako smo čuli, ne pije svakodnevno, ona je najčešće atrakcija za turiste i poslužuje se najviše u kabaretima uz flamengo. Vi će te pomoću naših recepata moći to pripremiti kod kuće i zamisliti da ste u Španjolskoj. čiste
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is bes best there. In search for good Sangria we went iin one of recommended bars in Madrid, where here floors are cleaned after closing hours. Floor in the bar told us that we are on the right way – it was all covered in rubbish. Almost as wa soon aas I entered I spoke the learned sentence: “Una Sangria por favor”, and the waiter easily recognized that we are strangers. recogn Art of Sangria making is highly valued, and in accord accordance to the wine quality goes the level of place’s reputation, so those who know how to make it like to prove themselves. “Cam “Camarero” pulled out a big pitcher and slickly blo blocked the view so we would not find out about the secret of the drink preparation. Yet, my cu curiosity made me peek stealthily. Mirror on the other side helped me with that, so I man managed to ajar the door to that secret. First, the se server poured the wine into the pitcher, then added two bisected oranges, and then squee squeezed out a lemon and threw it in the pitche pitcher. He mixed it all together well and added some som pepper and other ingredients which I was n not able to recognize. Finally, he squeezed out some so Mediterranean fruit as well and Sangria was w ready to be consumed. The first sip reveal revealed to us that it was the drink with speccific aaroma, different from all other known d drinks drinks. It is very drinkable and refreshing. As we heard, w he Spaniards do not drink it on a daily ba basis; it is mainly attraction for tourists and is s served most often in cabarets during flamenco. W our recipes you can make it at your home With and imagine im you are in Spain!
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Još nekoliko recepata za Sangriu • • • • • •
1 boca slatkog crnog vina, 1 boca soda-vode ili mineralne vode, 6 žlica šećera, 1 naranča razrezana na kriške, korica jednog limuna izrezana u obliku spirale, zdjelica puna kockica leda Sve skupa pomiješati
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1 bottle of sweet red wine 1 bottle of soda water or carbonized water 6 spoons of sugar 1 sliced orange spiral shaped lemon rind cup full of ice Mix altogether
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3 breskve na komade 1 jabuka na komade 100 gr dinje sve na komade 150 gr grožđa 150 ml konjaka 1 L crvenog vina 1 limun 1 naranča
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3 sliced peaches 1 sliced apple 100 grams of sliced melon 150 grams of grapes 150 ml of cognac 1 l of red wine 1 lemon 1 orange
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1,5 litra crnog vina 1 llitra soka od limuna 1 dl likera od voća (preporučamo Grand Marnier ) 1 dl gina 1 banana 1 breskva 1 jabuka 1 limun 3-4 žlice šećera (prema vlastitoj želji)
• • • • • • • • •
1,5 liter of red wine 1 liter of lemon juice 1 dl of fruit liquor (we recommend Grand Marnier) 1 dl of gin 1 banana 1 peach 1 apple 1 lemon 3-4 spoons of sugar (at will)
Bananu oguliti i narezati, također i jabuku, limun i breskvu s korom na komadiće i dodati u vino, te doliti liker i gin i dodati razmućeni šećer u vinu. Preporučamo ostaviti u frižideru da odstoji i ohladi se. Obvezno poslužiti sa ledom. Prema vlastitom ukusu dodati klinčića ili oraščića.
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Some more recipes for Sangria
Peel off and slice banana, apple, lemon and slice peach with the skin, add it to wine, then pour the liquor and gin in, and add sugar dissolved in wine. We recommend putting the wine into the cooler so it can age and cool off. Must serve with ice. Add cloves or nuts at will.
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Energija za pojedince koji su prosječnost zamjenili iskušenjem, lutanjem, erotikom i maštom. Iskra života zapaljena suncem na blagim obroncima Kraljevoga Brda, zaljevana moćnim Dunavom, do danas se rasplamsala u požar. Požar, koji se stoljećem širio poput divlje buktinje, pretvara se u strast, umješnost, vigor života, pokretačke energije, stvaranje ljubavi. Stoljeća su prošla od kada je posađen prvi čokot na obroncima koji nadvisuju Dunav, ali energija koja je tada zasađena sa prvim lozama, danas se manifestira u svakom gutljaju Iuris vina. Kako je moguće da vina imaju takvu energiju? Odakle takva mističnost u vinima? Odgovor je teško dati ali neprekinuta tradicija je zasigurno temelj poticaja stvaranja što boljih vina. Tradicija koja se očituje u pitomoj zemlji, koju je oblikovala ruka težaka, kaplje znoja, koje su zalijevale svaki pojedini čokot, pažljiva ruka koja je brala grozd, i iskustvo brižnih vinara koji su oblikovli, brinuli i čuvali taj dar prirode, vino, sve su to djelovi slagalice koja je vinariju Iuris uzdizala u strasti stvaranja energije.
1910 - 2010
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- wine festival vinski raj u alpama - wine festival wine paradise in the Alps
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itoreskni gradić na samom sjeveru Italije, Meran kako ga nazivaju Njemci ili Merano po Talijanima, u studenom je bio centar vinskog svijeta. Ovaj gradić okružen planinama i smješten na 3335 m nadmorske visine, koji pripada južnom Tirolu, već je 19-tu godinu za redom domaćin Merano Wine Festivala, na kojem se ove godine u 4 dana ispraznilo 30 000 butelja vina iz Italije i ostalih krajeva svijeta, te su se održala različita kušanja, prezentacije, seminari i nagrađivanja. Unatoč cijeni ulaznice od 80 eura za jedan dan ili 125 eura za dva dana, kroz dvorane i hodnike Kurhausa je prodefiliralo čak 4500 posjetitelja.
Čak 11 vrhunskih kuhara, svi redom iz Jenes Restaurateurs d’Europe, izvodilo je kulinarski show u Gourmet Areni u kojoj su se odvijali uzbuđujući dueli i servirali magični meniji. Kao što se očekivalo po iskustvu iz prethodnih godina, najveće komešanje je bilo u dvorani u kojoj su izlagali francuski vinari iz Bordeauxa. Mase
As expected by the experience from the previous years, the biggest stir was in the hall with French winemakers from Bordeaux. Wine lovers
Ove godine je sudjelovalo 664 izlagača (538 vinara iz cijelog svijeta, 91 tvrtki vezanih uz kulinarstvo, 15 proizvođača žestokih alkoholnih pića, 10 proizvođača piva i 10 vinskih turističkih odredišta.)
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erano, the picturesque town in the north of Italy, or Meran, as it is called by germans or the Italians, in November was the center of the wine world. This small town surrounded by the mountains and situated on 3335 m above sea level, which belongs to the South Tyrol, for 19 years is the host of Merano Wine Festival, whose guests and visitors this year emptied in 4 days 30 000 bottles of wine from Italy and other parts of the world, and they also held a different tasting, presentations, seminars and awards. Despite the ticket price of 80 euros per day or 125 euros for two days, more than 4500 visitors walked through the halls and corridors of the Kurhaus. This year the festival was attended by 664 exhibitors (538 winemakers from around the world, 91 companies related to cookery, 15 spirits producers, 10 manufacturers of beer and 10 wine destinations.) Even the top 11 chefs, all of them from Jenes restaurateurs d’Europe, performed an outstanding show in Gourmet culinary arena where they took place in exciting magical duels and served delicious menus.
vinoljubaca strpljivo su čekale da im se utoči par kapi prvoklasnih vina poput Chateau Angelus, Premier grand cru iz Saint Emiliona, jer su znali da već popodne neće imati za to šansu. Posebnost ovog šarmantnog festivala je i u tome što na njemu ne može izlagati bilo tko samo prijavom i uplatom. Sva prijavljena vina prethodno se ocjenjuju, da bi samo najboljima bilo dopušteno izlaganje. Hrvatsku su u tom elitnom društvu predstavljala samo dva, ali konkurentima ravnopravna predstavnika. Vinarija Saint Hills izlagala je s već naveliko hvaljenom ‘Nevinom’, mješavinom malvazije i chardonnaya, te ‘Dingačom’ koji je posebno za ovu priliku predstavljen malo ranije, ali ono sto smo kušali najavljuje novu zvijezdu na hrvatskom tržištu vina. U drugoj dvorani, odvojeno od Saint Hillsa izlagala je Marija Mrgudić iz Orebića., vjerojatno zbog toga što su njena vina uvrštena u kategoriju ‘ekstremnih vina i vinara’. Uz prekrasnu fotografiju Pelješca s padinom Dingač, Korčule i okoline u perspektivi koja obuhvaća 360 stupnjeva, Marija je izlagala svoj Postup Mare, te Dingač Bura i Dingač Kiridžija. Predstavnici susjednih država našli su se i u susjedstvu Saint Hillsa; najpoznatija srpska vinarija Aleksandrović te čak osam slovenskih vinara. Velika vina iz svih velikih vinskih zemalja, egzotična imena poput nekih vina iz Indije, vina kolekcije Rolland nastala pod budnim okom Michella Rolanda, jednog od najpoznatijih svjetskih vinskih stručnjaka koji savjetuje nekoliko vinarija diljem svijeta, uključujući i Saint Hills, biodinamička i biološka vina, pa i ona s oznakom ‘zerosulfiti’, šampanjci...VINSKI RAJ. Što se sprema za 20-tu obljetnicu Merano Wine Festivala sljedeće godine posebno nas raduje, te i sljedeće godine moramo što više toga vidjeti i degustirati !
patiently waited for few drops of the first-class wines like Chateau Angelus, Premier Grand Cru from Saint Emilion. The specialty of this charming festival is the fact that not anybodycan expose, just paying the registration fee. All previously reported wines are evaluated, it is only allowed to display the best. Croatia is in that elite group with only two outstanding representatives. Saint Hills Winery has exhibited with the already widely acclaimed ‘innocent’, a mix of Malvasia and Chardonnay, and ‘Dingač’ which is specially for this occasion presented a little earlier, but what we tried to announce, it is a new star on the Croatian wine market. In another hall, apart from Saint Mary Hills, Marija Mrgudić from Orebic exhibited her wine. Probably because these wines are listed in the category of ‘extreme wines and winemakers. Under beautiful photography with a slope of Dingač Peljesac, Korcula and the environment in a perspective that covers 360 degrees, Mary has exhibited her Postup Mare and Dingač Bora and Dingač Kiridžija. The representatives of the neighboring countries have found themselves in the neighborhood of Saint Hills, the most famous Serbian Aleksandrovic wineries and eight Slovenian winemakers. Among great wines from all the major wine countries, exotic names of some wines from India, wine collections and under the watchful eye of Roland Michell, one of the most famous wine expert who advises several wineries around the world, including Saint Hills, biological and biodynamic wines, and those labeled ‘zerosulphites’ champagne ... we experienced WINE PARADISE. What we expect for the 20-th anniversary of Merano Wine Festival, next year, make us especially pleased, as next year we have so much to see and taste!
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Restoran Vinarija Josić od gastro užitaka do prestižnih vinskih nagrada
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sjeveroistočnom kutu HrHrr-vatske, između Dunava i DraDrra D raa-ve, do mađarske granice, nalazi cee,, n aallazzi se se Baranja. Vinova loza se stoljećima ćima ći ma uzgaja uzg zgaj aja na na Banovoj kosi, uzvisini koja se proteže u smjeru zapad istok duž cijele Baranje. Rimljani su “kosu” zvali Zlatnim brdom, ne po rudniku zlata, nego po “zlatnoj kapljici” koja je oduvijek tekla iz njenih obronaka. Vino je tada bilo posebno cijenjeno jer je služilo za okrepu i veselje. Vinogradi su živjeli i za turske vlasti i preživjeli su do današnjnih dana. Obitelj Josić iz Osijeka 1999. godine u Baranji kupuje stari vinski podrum iz 1935. godine, dužine 42m. Obnavlja ga, ali zadržava tradicionalni izgled
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p po od drrum uma i oprema ga suvremenom podruma ttehnologijom. te eh hn nol olog olog ogijjo Istovremeno kupuju cca 1,6 ha 1, ha sstarih tariih nasada ta n 1,6 vinove loze. Kvalitetna viina na JJos ossić o ićev evvih evih hp roiz roiz ro izvvo o se od autentičnih baranjvina Josićevih proizvode skih skkih h sorti so orrti ti grožđa gro rožđ đa koja koja ko ja potječu p iz njihovih vinograda na Banovoj kosi. Vina JOSIĆ dosada su okrunjena brojnim zlatnim medaljama za kvalitetu te višestrukim nagradama za dizajn i potpuno originalan pristup opremanju boca vina etiketama na kojima se nalaze rijetke i ugrožene vrste ptica stanarica područja Parka prirode Kopački Rit. Brojne prestižne nagrade na natjecanjima uobičajene su, a ovogodišnji popis osvojenih nagrada do-
Restaurant Winery Josić from gastronomic delights to the prestigious wine awards
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n the northeastern corner of Croatia, between the Danube and Drava rivers, near the Hungarian border, Baranja is located. Vine has been growing for centuries on ‘Banova kosa’, the hill that stretches from east to west, along the entire Baranja. The Romans called this hill ‘The Golden Mountain’, not because of the gold mine, but because of the “golden droplets” which always flowe from its slopes. The wine was particularly appreciated, because it served for invigoration and delight. Vineyards have survived through the time of Turkish Empire and have lived until this day. In 1999. family Josić from Osijek bought an old wine cellar from 1935.,which is long 42m. They restored it and retained the traditional look of the basement, but with modern equipment and technology. At the same time they bought about 1.6 ha of old vineyards. Quality wines Josic are produced from authentic Baranja grape varieties originating from their vineyards on ‘Banova kosa’.
Josic wines have so far been crowned with numerous gold medals for quality, and multiple awards for design and completely original approach to equipping the wine bottle labels on which are rare and endangered species of resident birds in the Park of Nature ‘Kopacki Rit’. Numerous prestigious awards from competitions are common for them, and volume of this year’s list of awards speaks about their proven quality. On the evaluation of wine from Transdanubia and Slavonia - Ilok 2010, CUVEE Ciconia Nigra 2008 and 2009 won the gold. GRAŠEVINA selected harvest 2009 won the gold too, and GRAŠEVINA Terra Pannonium 2009 won great gold medal. They also won a gold plaque for the visual identity of wine Ciconia Nigra. In the international wine festival in Surduk 2010, GRAŠEVINA Terra Pannonium 2009 and GRASEVINA Terra Pannonium 2009 selected harvest, CA-
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voljno govori o već dokazanoj kvaliteti. S ocjenjivanja vina Podunavlja i Slavonije - Ilok 2010. osvojena su zlata za CUVÉE Ciconia Nigra 2008. i 2009., za GRAŠEVINU izborna berba 2009., te veliko zlato za GRAŠEVINU Terra Pannonium 2009., uz zlatnu plaketu za vizualni identitet vina Ciconia Nigra. Na Međunarodnom ocjenjivanju vina u sklopu Surduk festivala 2010. zlata su dodijeljena za Zlato GRAŠEVINA Terra Pannonium 2009. te izbornu berbu, CABERNET FRANC Ciconia Nigra 2009., za CUVÉE Ciconia Nigra 2009., a CABERNET SAUVIGNON Ciconia Nigra 2009. proglašena je šampionom crnih vina. U protekloj godini Restoran Vinarija Josić posluje izvrsno, na zadovoljstvo i užitak svih posjetitelja. Među brojnim događanjima, organizirali su nekoliko vrlo zapaženih koncerata poput onoga Hanke Paldum i Zvonka Bogdana, a tu praksu planiraju nastaviti i u budućnosti s renomiranim imenima.
OBITELJSKI PODRUM - JOSIĆ MBG: 2806968305028 Zmajevac - Baranja, Mountain 194 RESTORAN - VINARIJA JOSIĆ Tel: 031/734-410 Fax: 031/215-494 Rezervacije: 099/836-12 11 Marketing: 098 /466-727 Facebook: Vinarija Josić Blog: restoranjosic. blogspot.com E - mail: restoran@josic.hr Web: www.josic.hr
Na 43. međunarodnom sajamu turizma u Novom Sadu, koji se održavao početkom listopada Restoran vinarija Josić osvojila je veliku zlatnu medalja za kvalitetu, razvoj vinskog turizma i restorana. Međunarodni sajam turizma u Novom Sadu je jedan od vodećih sajmova te vrste u regiji. Restoran Josić, kao novost u ponudi, prvi je uveo besplatni autobusni prijevoz do restorana. Tu je i besplatni širokopojasni Internet za goste, što se posebno odnosi na poslovne ljude koji često svraćaju u Restoran Josić. U ponudu su uvrstili i salu za prezentacije i sastanke, opremljenu svom audiovizualnom opremom za organizaciju predavanja, prezentacija, također i u svrhu poslovnih sastanaka, a sve se to nalazi u ambijentu vinskog podruma te ostavlja poseban dojam na posjetitelje. Često se u pauzama organizira i kušanje biranih sorti nagrađivanih vina u kušaonici. Sve je veći trend dolazaka na team building u restoran, jer nudi i razne sadržaje poput zajedničkog kuhanja poznatih baranjskih jela, fiša, čobanca ili šarana na rašljama. Ponuda jela kod Josića razlikuje se od ostalih restorana zbog ponude različitih gastronomskih specijaliteta ovog područja poput carpaccia od pačjih prsa, dimljenih pačjih prsa sa žara, guščjih jetra, dimljene marinirane riječne riba i sl. Posljednji projekt pokrenuli su s partnerima Taxijem Cammeo - osim vrlo povoljne promotivne cijene prijevoza taxijem do Restorana i vinarije Josić, od rujna je moguće na području grada Osijeka naručiti vina Obiteljskog podruma Josić od 0 do 24 sata po vrlo povoljnim cijenama. Ne čudi da je restoran u samo godinu i pol dana postao pravi brand Baranje te je prema istraživanju Jutarnjeg lista proglašen najboljim restoranom u istočnoj Hrvatskoj.
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Predstavljamo vam nagrade za naša vina koja smo osvojili u 2010. godini: Ocjenjivanje vina Podunavlja i Slavonije - Ilok 2010 veliko zlato GRAŠEVINA Terra Pannonium 2009 berba zlato GRAŠEVINA izborna berba 2009 zlato CUVÉE Ciconia Nigra 2008 zlato CUVÉE Ciconia Nigra 2009 zlatna plaketa za vizualni identitet: Ciconia Nigra Me_unarodno ocjenjivanje vina u sklopu Surduk festivala 2010 Zlato GRAŠEVINA Terra Pannonium 2009 Zlato GRAŠEVINA Terra Pannonium 2009 izborna berba Zlato CABERNET FRANC Ciconia Nigra 2009 Zlato CUVÉE Ciconia Nigra 2009 Zlato CABERNET SAUVIGNON Ciconia Nigra 2009 – šampion crnih vina Rheinisher Weinkonvent e.V. - Weine aus dem nördlichen Kroatien “Zwischen den 3 Flüssen” Wein des monats - CUVÉE Ciconia Nigra 2009 vino mjeseca
FAMILY BASEMENT - JOSIĆ MBG: 2806968305028 Zmajevac - Baranja, Mountain 194 RESTAURANT - WINERY JOSIĆ Tel: 031/734-410 Fax: 031/215-494 Reservations: 099/836-12 11 Marketing: 098 /466-727 Facebook: Winery Josić Blog: restoranjosic. blogspot.com E - mail: restoran@josic.hr Web: www.josic.hr
BERNET FRANC Ciconia Nigra 2009 and CUVEE Ciconia Nigra 2009 were awarded with the gold , and CABERNET SAUVIGNON Ciconia Nigra 2009 declared as the champion of red wines. In the past year Restaurant Winery Josic was operating excellent, for the pleasure and enjoyment of all visitors. Among the many events, they staged several highly acclaimed concerts like the ones with Hanka Paldum and Zvonko Bogdan, and they plan to continue this practice in the future with reputable names. At the 43 International Tourism Fair in Novi Sad, which was held in early October, Josić Restaurant winery won a gold medal for high quality, development of wine tourism and restaurants. International Tourism Fair in Novi Sad is one of the leading trade shows of its kind in the region. Restaurant Josić first introduced free bus transportation to the restaurant, as a novelty in the offer. There is also free broadband internet for guests, which applies especially to business people who frequently visited restaurant Josić. The offer also include a room for presentations and meetings, equipped with all audiovisual equipment for the organization of lectures, presentations, and also for business meetings, and all this in ambient of a wine cellar with the atmosphere which leaves a special impression on visitors. The tasting of selected varieties of award-winning wines is often organised in breaks. There is a growing trend of tourist arrivals to team building in a restaurant. It offers various facilities such as common cooking of familiar dishes of Baranja, like fis, cobanac, or shepherd on carp. Meal offer at Josic differs from other restaurants because of the different culinary specialties in this area, such as carpaccio of duck breast, smoked and
grilled duck breast, goose liver, marinated smoked freshwater fish, etc. The latest project launched by the partners Taxi Cammeo is very good promotional price for the taxi to the restaurant and winery Josic, and from September it is possible to order wine of the Family Wine Cellar Josic to any part of Osijek, 0-24 hours, at very affordable prices. No wonder that the restaurant only a year and a half ago from opening became a real brand of Baranja and according to research of ‘Jutarnji List’, it is named as best restaurant in eastern Croatia. Introducing into the awards which our wines won in 2010: Evaluation of wine of Transdanubia and Slavonia Ilok 2010 GRAŠEVINA Terra Pannonium 2009 - great gold GRAŠEVINA selected harvest 2009 - gold CUVEE Ciconia Nigra 2008 - gold CUVEE Ciconia Nigra 2009 - gold gold medal for the visual identity: Ciconia Nigra International wine judging in Surduk Festival 201 GRAŠEVINA Terra Pannonium 2009 - gold GRAŠEVINA Terra Pannonium selected harvest 2009 - gold CABERNET FRANC 2009 Ciconia Nigra - gold CUVEE Ciconia Nigra 2009 - gold CABERNET SAUVIGNON Ciconia Nigra 2009 Champion of red wine Rheinisher Weinkonvent e.V. - Weine aus dem nördlichen Kroatien “Zwischen den 3 Flüssen” Wein des Monats - CUVEE Ciconia Nigra 2009 Wine of the month
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Pijemo ga mi od vika, ni potriba drugo lika!
Uz vina s korčulanske Čare se nazdravlja
With the wines from Čara there is a toast
We have been drinking it from time immemorial and that is the only medicine we ever needed! RUKATAC kvalitetno je vino dobiveno od istoimene starovijeke sorte grožđa (istoznačnice Maraština bijela) rasprostranjena jadranskim vinogorjima. U pojedinim ekološki povoljnim godinama na Čarskom polju može postići vrhunsku kakvoću. Vino je žuto zelenkaste boje, svježih diskretnih ali pikantnih sortnih mirisa koji u čarskom terroiru podsjećaju na svježe zdrobljenu rutu i mirisnu mediteransku livadu, finog je bukea, suhog i treperavo osvježavajućeg okusa.
RUKATAC It is produced from Rukatac ( Maraština ), a high quality Dalmatian grape variety from the fertile Adriatic vineyards. In ecologically favourable years on the Čarsko polje it can be of a top quality. The wine is of a yellow- greenish colour, discreet yet piquant varietal flavours reminiscent of freshly squeezed rue and scented Mediterranean meadow, it is of a nice bouquet, dry and of refreshing flavour.
POŠIP BIJELI domorodna je izvorna sorta otoka Korčule gdje se i najviše uzgaja, a nastala je spontanim križanjem Zlatarice bijele i Bratkovine bijele. Na položajima Čare daje prepoznatljiva kvalitetna i vrhunska vina koja se odlikuju terroirom svojega užeg proizvodnog prostora.
POŠIP BIJELI Is an autochthonous white wine cultivar that is primarily grown on the island of Korčula. It is a progeny of two other cultivars Zlatarica bijela and Bratkovina bijela. It gives recognizable quality and top quality wines that contain terrain features of the area from which they originate. The vine and the wine are authentic, native and original on this island.
Stoga Vam predstavljamo:
That is why we represent to you:
-POŠIP, kvalitetno vino koje se dobiva od grožđa proizvedenog u ekološki manje povoljnom okruženju čarskih položaja s dubokih, hladnijih i plodnijih tala. Ono je zelenkasto žute boje, slabije naglašene sortne arome, krepkog okusa užitne kiselosti i ugodne diskretne gorkosti. -POŠIP, vrhunsko vino dobiva se od grožđa proizvedenog na povoljnijim položajima čarskog okruženja. Zlatno je žute boje sa zelenkastim nijansama, dovoljno izraženim mirisom ugođenih sortnih značajki po rascvjetalom bajamu i makijskom raslinju, finog bukea (Bouqueta) kandirane narančine korice i rahlog tla crvenice (terra rossa), otmjeno punog, glatkog i sadržajnog okusa. „MARKO POLO“, vrhunsko je vino dobiveno od grožđa sorte Pošip bijeli s izdvojenih osunčanih položaja koji se odlikuju toplim, šljunkovitim škrtim tlima razvijenim na geološkoj podlozi drobljivih vapnenaca. Takovi okolinski uvjeti
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daju prepoznatljiv karakter ovom vinu. Zlatno je žute boje, skladnih, toplih, sortno prepoznatljivih nadahnjujućih mirisnih sastavnica po cvijetu bajama, makijskih aromata i gorke naranče, izraženog ljupkog bukea suhe smokve, pečenih bajama i vrijeskovog meda, mekano i puno, slasnog i bogatog umami okusa. Otok Korčula jedan je od najstarije naseljenih otoka hrvatskog Jadrana, što dokazuje množina kamenih pretpovijesnih gomila i gradina, spomenika mlađeg kamenog doba, od kraja sedmog tisućljeća prije Krista. Nastanjali su ga Iliri, Grci, Rimljani, Goti, Bizant, pa sve do doseljenja i etničke prevage i vladavine Hrvata i njihove bitke za opstojnost s Venecijom i drugim nepoželjnicama. Jedno od najstarijih naselja na Korčuli je mjesto Čara (Villa di Kzara) smješteno po sredini otoka. U njegovom se okruženju nalaze mnogi antički lokaliteti s arheloškim nalazištima nadgrobnih stella i rimskih ladanjskih kuća (villae rusticae) s ostacima kamenih, tjesaka, amfora, vrčeva… Sve te povijesne dokaznice jasno upućuju na veliku gospodarsku značajnost ovih otočkih prostora koji su u svim povijesnim i društvenim mijenama imali organiziran način življenja i gospodarenja okolišom. To potvrđuju i odrednice Statuta grada i otoka Korčule iz 1214. godine (Statuta et leges civitatis et insulae Curzulae) kojima se između ostalog strogo određuje ponašanje u čuvanju vinograda i proizvodnji grožđa. Dakle, otok je bogat vinogradima kao egzistencijalnom kulturom za koju se svake godine biraju pudari, čuvari vinograda (pudarius velcutas vinea).
POŠIP, quality wine that is produced from grapes produced in ecologically less suitable environment, from deep, cooler and fertile soils of the Čara area. It is of greenish- yellow colour, less emphasized varietal flavour, brisk taste and agreeable, yet discreet, bitterness. POŠIP, top quality wine, is produced from the grapes that grow on more suitable areas of the Čara area. It is of a gold- yellowish colour with green shades, varietal flavours of almond and macchia plants, of a nice bouquet of candied orange peel and terra rossa soil, of a gracefully full, smooth and substantial flavour. “MARKO POLO“ is a top quality wine from the Pošip bijeli grape cultivar, from sunny areas with warm, pebbly, arid soils developed on the area of crushed limestone. These environmental surroundings give this wine its recognizable character. It is of a gold- yellowish colour, harmonius, warm, recognizable scent flavours of almond flower, macchia aromas, bitter orange, lovely bouquet of dry figs, roasted almonds and ling honey, soft and full, delicious and of rich umami flavour. The island of Korčula is one of the oldest inhabitated islands in the Adriatic, with numerous
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U tom su milenijskom tradicijskom ozračju mnoge generacije otočana, nadasve marnih i vrijednih čarana sačuvale i njegovale kulturu uzgoja vinove loze, a do kultnih razmjera uzdizali proizvodnju grožđa i vina. Tu svoju sklonost i životnu opredjeljenost čuvali su u obiteljskim zadrugama, i na taj način gradili put zajedništva prema suvremenom zadrugarstvu. Ono se temelji na tradiciji utemeljenja prve zadruge na prostorima hrvatskih zemalja 1864. godine u Korčuli. Od tadašnjih do današnjih dana čarski je težak prošao različitim vidovima udruživanja, da bi danas u svojoj Poljoprivrednoj zadruzi „Pošip“, Čara pronašao svoje gospodarsko utočište i svoja kvalitetna i vrhunska vina, marom dobrog domaćina, u okružju oštre konkurencije, vrlo uspješno ponudio domaćem i svjetskom tržištu. A ta se kakvoća postiže čuvanjem i poštovanjem tradicionalnog nasljedstva i svrhovitog prihvaćanja suvremenih postupaka u proizvodnji grožđa. A ono proizvedeno s ljubavlju na čarskim položajima dospijeva u, s velikim odricanjem vinogradara izgrađenu zadružnu vinariju. Svojom modernom tehničkotehnološkom opremom i kadrovskom ekipiranošću i osposobljenošću, sve zahtjevnijem tržištu iz svojih „njedara“, uvijek poklanja velika vrhunska vina i tako hrvatsku enogastronomsku uljudbu uzdiže vrhovima nasladne ugode.. Stoga s vinima čarskog terroira nazdravljamo i poručujemo: „ Pijemo ga mi od vika ni potriba drugo lika!“ ZDRAVI I VESELI BILI !
stone archeological findings, from the Neolithic Age, from the end of the 7th millennium B.C. It was populated by the Illyrians, Greeks, Romans, Goths and Byzantines, up to the time when the Croats arrived and prevailed against Venice and others. One of the oldest settlements on the island of Korčula is a place called Čara ( Villa di Kzara ) in the middle of the island. There are many ancient sites near by with archaeological findings such as tombstones and Roman countryside villas ( villae rusticae ) with remnants of jugs, amphoras… This all shows a great economical value of this island, which had an organized way of life and environment management in all historical and social changes. This can be seen in the Statute of the town and the island of Korčula from 1214 ( Statuta et leges civitatis et insulae Curzulae ) that strictly determines the behaviour in maintaining the vineyards and in the grape production. This island abounds in vineyards as the most important culture for which pudari ( pudarius velcutas vinea ), the keepers of the vineyards, are chosen every year. In that old traditional surroundings, the generations of the islanders, hardworking and diligent people from Čara, have kept and nurtured the vine graft cultivation, and raised the concept of the grape and wine production almost to another level. They have kept their life choice in the family cooperatives and in that way paved the way towards the modern cooperatives. They are based on the establishment of the first cooperative in this area, in 1864 in Korčula. Since then, labourer from Čara has went through different forms of cooperation, only to find the economic refuge in the “Pošip“ Agricultural Cooperative from Čara. Through it, among severe competition, he presented his quality and top quality wines, as every good host would do, to the national and international market. That quality can only be achieved by preserving and respecting the traditional heritage and accepting modern day procedures in grape production. And that what was made with love in the Čara area is then transported to the cooperative vinery. With its modern technical and technological equipment, qualified staff, ever growing market demands, the vinery always gives top quality wines and in that way rises Croatian enogastronomy to a pleasant delight. Therefore, with the wines from Čara we say a toast: “We have been drinking it from time immemorial and that is the only medicine we ever needed“. CHEERS!
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Vinska kuća Wine house
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Majetic'
samom srcu Zlatne l latne doline,a podno obror rirode Papuk 20-tak km naka parka prirode o ožege,a udaljene od Požege,a svega nekoliko od kka kkuća Majetić Kutjeva,nalazi se Vinska Majetić. Gotovo cijele godine suncem okupano okruženo netaknutom prirodom u zelenilu vinograda,pruža se predivan pogled Vallis Aureu. Prepoznat od strane Rimljana kao i od mnogih osvajača koji su kroz stoljeća tim krajem,ovaj je dio Hrvatske u svijetu predstavljao užitak i odmor za dušu i tijelo. Plodna zemlja, povoljni klimatski uvjeti,marljiva i radišna ruka vinograda te znanje, ljubav i iskustvo podrumara kao plod daju prepoznatljiva,osebujna i naširoko poznata vina. Podrum obiteljskog gospodarstva Majetić sagrađen je po svim normama koje zahtjeva struka za dobivanje visokokvalitetnog vina , u duhu tradicije podrumarstva obitelji Majetić. Kapacitet i tehnologija jamac su uspješnog razvoja u stalnom procesu unaprjeđivanja vlastite kvalitete i tržišne pozicije.
I
n the heart of Golden Valley, at the foot of the slopes of National Park, 20-km away from Pozega, just a few kilometers from Kutjevo, there is Majer wine production. Almost all year round sunny valley, surrounded by beautiful untouched nature in the green vineyards, offers a magnificent view to Vallis Aurea. Recognized by the Romans, as well as by the many conquerors who passed through this area at the end of the century, the Croatian part of the world represented the enjoyment and relaxation for body and soul. A fertile land, favorable climate, diligent ad hardworking people of the vineyard and their remarkable knowledge, love and experience in wine production resulted in recognizable, distinctive and widely known taste of their wines. The basement of the family farm Majer, built by all standards required by the profession to obtain high-quality wines, in the spirit of family tradition of Majer Winery. The capacity and technology are a guarantee for successful development in a constant process of imp improving its quality and market positioning.
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Dopustite da Vam predstavimo vina Majetić, autohtoni hrvatski proizvod prikladan za uživanje, kako u vlastitom domu, tako i na poslovnim susretima. Dobrim poznavateljima vina otprije je poznato da grožđe odnjegovano u nadaleko poznatom kutjevačkom vinogorju, već stoljećima daje najkvalitetnija hrvatska kontinentalna vina. Znanje i tradicija obitelji Majetić u izradi vina, ovjenčana je brojnim nagradama na stručnim skupovima i natjecanjima. Odaberite nešto iz našeg ponuđenog asortimana i postanite dio velike obitelji ljubitelja vina Majetić.
RESTORAN / RESTAURANT Tradicionalna, čak i pomalo zaboravljena bakina kuhinja za suvremene ljubitelje dobrog zalogaja, to je kredo kreativne ekipe kuhara Vinske kuće Majetić . Za Vas su osmislili jelovnik koji obiluje starinskim receptima ali su na toj tradiciji izgradili i nekoliko sasvim novih kreacija. U ugodnoj atmosferi uz specijalitete domaće kuhinji našeg kraja i vrhunska vina Vinske kuće Majetić, uživajte u romantičnoj večeri za dvoje ili obiteljskom ručku; ugostite svoje poslovne partnere, organizirajte seminare; paleta ponude je široka. Traditional and even somehow forgotten granny’s kitchen for good food lovers, this is the credo of creative teams of Majer wine. They have created a menu which includes lots of old recipes but al built on this tradition, and a few new extraordinary creations, just for you. In the pleasant atmosphere of the native cuisine of our region and Majer wines, enjoy a romantic dinner for two or a family lunch; surprise your business partners, organize seminars, offer a wide range of products.
Let me introduce you to Majer wines, original Croatian product, suitable for enjoyment, both in our own home, and on business meetings. Good wine connoisseurs already know that grapes are cultivated in widely known Kutjevo vineyards, which, through centuries has been provided the highest quality of Continental Croatian wines. Knowledge and traditions of the Majer family in making wine are crowned in numerous awards at professional conferences and competitions. Choose from our range of products offered and become part of a large family of Majer wine lovers.
SOBE / ROOMS Novosagrađeni ugostiteljski objekat smješten u samom vinogradu, pruža svakom gostu potpuni doživljaj svim osjetilima,od kušaone vina u podrumu, preko izvrsnih domaćih Specijaliteta u restoranu, do noćenja i odmora u maštovito uređenim, živopisnim sobama u potkrovlju Vinske kuće Majetić. Newly-built catering facility situated in the vineyard, provides every guest a complete experience for all senses, wine tasting of wines in the cellar, through the excellent local food specialties in the restaurant, and later to rest in bed in imaginatively decorated colorful rooms. Wine in the attic of the Majer house.
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Nerica
S ara je od davnina posebnu pažnju pridavala vino voj lozi i vinu. Vina s ovog područja probali su austrijski carevi i Napoleonovi generali. Ona su se točila grčkim kolonistima i rimskim carevima, a ispričane priče vraćaju nas tisućljećima unatrag. Dio te priče, svojim vinima ispričat će nam i obiteljska p.z. "NERICA", u čijim se podrumima već generacijama s posebnom pažnjom proizvode vina taknuta uta toplinom Korčulanskog krajobraza i dugom gom vinarskom prošlošću. Uživajući u njima, osjetit ćete i ljubav koju čovjek s ovog prostora ora ulaže u nastajanje ove jedinstvene ne kapljice. Ona je generacijama osloonac i nada, sadržaj oko kojega su u se ljudi skupljali i ostajali zajedno, o, uz kojega su tugovali i veselili se. Živjeli i Vi s nama!!!
ince ancient times, people of Čara have dedicated a lot of attention to wine-growing and wine production. Both Austrian emperors and Napoleon's generals have tasted the wines from this area. They were poured into the glasses of Greek colonists and the Roman emperors, and the stories related to these wines date back millennia ago. The family agricultural cooperative "NERICA" will tell us a part of this ancient story, because this family has been producing wines in its cellars with special dedication for many a generation: the wines touched by the warmth of the Korčula Korču orču landscape and a long history of wine p production. Savouring Savo vo these wines, you will sense the love that people of this area have th for the creation of this unique drink. fo For generations, it has been sometF hing they relied on, their hope, soh mething that connected them and m made them stay together, something ma that accompanied both their sorrows and joys .Cheers!!! .C
Pošip - autohtono vrhunsko bijelo vino proizvedeno od sorte pošip s terroira - carsko polje, koje mu daje specifična i prepoznatljiva obilježja. Boje je zlatnožute sa zelenkastim odsjajem, izraženim sortnim mirisom te finog bukea, glatka i prepoznatljiva okusa.Vino podsjeća na cvjetne mirise bajama.
Pošip - top quality wine, is produced from the grapes that grow on more suitable areas of the Čara area. It is of a gold- yellowish colour with green shades, varietal flavours of almond and macchia plants, of a nice bouquet of candied orange peel and terra rossa soil, of a gracefully full, smooth and substantial flavour.
Č
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Nekad glasovito, pa potom napušteno vino vraća se na vinsko tržište poput feniksa
S ponistre se vidi
Dobričić comes into view from the window Piše: /Written by Želimir Bašić
Once well-known, and then forlorn wine is coming back on wine market like Phoenix
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obričić je stara sorta grožđa koja je po mnogo čemu jedinstvena u dalmatinskoj ampelografiji. Ova sorta je u prvom redu poznata po vinu izuzetne tamno crvene-rubin boje. Stručnjaci tvrde da je to jedna od najstarijih izvornih sorti Dalmacije, genetski predak najpoznatijeg dalmatinskog vina - plavca malog. Danas ga ima isključivo na otoku Šolti, i ne samo da je najrasprostranjeniji na otoku, već se često izjednačuje s vinogradarstvom Šolte. Tako je dobričić ostao vjeran Šolti, ali i Šolta dobričiću. Odlazim na Šoltu u društvu Joška Niskote i Ive Brkljačića iz Zadružnog saveza Dalmacije, da bi kušao dobričić iz obnovljenih vinograda. S broda promatramo ovaj ekološki očuvani biserni otok, koji se ispružio na morskoj pučini i podsjeća na brod, tu usidren da se njime igraju vjetrovi i valovi. Šoltansko vinogorje je jedinstveno i posebno zanimljivo. Tu su danas crne vinske sorte zastupljene s 92 posto, od čega je dobričić zasađen na 90 posto vinogradarskih površina, dok su ostale sorte prisutne simbolično (pla- v a c , okatac, ninčuša). Po tome je šoltansko vinogorje potpuno različito od drugih. Na otocima se vrijeme najčešće mjeri dolaskom i odlaskom brodske linije, a iskrcavajući se s bro-
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obričić is an old grape sort which is in many ways unique in Dalmatian ampelography. This sort is primarily known after extraordinary dark red-ruby color. Experts claim that this is one of the oldest Dalmatian native sorts, genetic ancestor to most famous Dalmatian wine - Plavac Mali. Today it can be found solely in island of Šolta, and not only it’s most prevalent in the island, but is often identified with viticulture of Šolta. That way Dobričić remained loyal to Šolta, and Šolta do Dobričić. I’m going to Šolta accompanied by Joško Niskota and Ivo Brkljačić from Copartnership union of Dalmatia (Zadružni savez Dalmacije) to taste Dobričić from renewed vineyards. From the ship we observe this ecologically preserved pearly island which spreads on the sea surface and reminds of a ship, anchored here for the winds and waves to play with it. Vineyards of Šolta are unique and especially interesting. Today, red wine sorts are represented here in 92%, of which Dobričić is planted on 90% vineyards’ fields, while other sorts are present symbolically (Plavac, Okatac, Ninčuša). Compared to others,
da na otok, razmišljam o prošlosti šoltanskog vinogradarstva. U arhivama o šoltanskom vinu ima malo podataka, no prvi koji je pisao o njemu ( moguće i o dobričiću ) bio je glasoviti pjesnik Marko Marulić, koji je s ovog otoka uputio prijateljima stihovnu pozivnicu da ga posjete. “Znaš, da na otoku stanujem, koji baš pridalek nije… Vesel došljake ću primiti i zagrlit sve ću ih redom… Prijani, gozba će naša ipak bogatija biti… Ribe iz obližnjeg mora, ča netom ih udicom zadi… Bit će tudi i pehari, pripuni rujnog vina , Kome se doliva svjež vodice hlađane mlaz.“ Prava je pomama za dobričićem nastala kada je vinograde uništila žiloždera, tada je naglo porasla potražnja za izrazito crnim vinima koja su se izvozila u Francusku. Trgovci su vrlo rano uočili da bi miješanjem francuskog vina s crnim vatrenim dobričićem, mogli stvoriti izvrsnu zamjenu za glasovita bordoška vina. Tada se šire nasadi dobričića sa Šolte u druga mjesta. Sadi se na otoku Hvaru gdje ga nazivaju čihovac, šoltanac i okručanac, na Braču je dobio ime plavac šoltanski, plavac veliki i slatinjanac, a oko Trogira i u Kaštelima još i šiljak i crljenak slatinski. Međutim kada se promijenio zahtjev tržišta i smanjio interes za tamnim vinima, a dobričić pokazao osjetljivost na peronosporu, napuštaju se nasadi ove sorte, tako da se sačuvao jedino na otoku Šolti. U luci nas čekaju naši domaćini, šoltanski vinari Željko Burica i Vicko Kaštelanac, koji nas vode razgledavati vinograde. Žalosno je danas gledati
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vineyards of Šolta are completely different in that way. On islands time is most often measured by ship lines arrivals and departures, and while landing on the island I’m thinking about the past of vineyards of Šolta. Not much data can be found in archives on wine from Šolta, but the first one who wrote about it (possibly about Dobričić too) was famous poet Marko Marulić, who sent invitation in verses from this island to his friends to visit him: “You know that I reside on the island, which is not to far… Joyful newcomers I will embrace and hug every one of them… Friends, our feast will surely be more abundant… Fish from the sea nearby, caught on the hooks just moments ago… There will be jugs as well, full of reddish wine… In which gush of fresh water is poured.” Real covet after Dobričić came when Phylloxera destroyed vineyards, so demand for distinctly red vines which were exported to France suddenly rose up. Merchants perceived quite early that, by mixing French wine with red fervent Dobričić, they could create excellent replacement for famous Bordeaux wines. Dobričić plantations then spread out from Šolta to other places. It is planted on island of Hvar where it is called Čihovac, Šoltanac and Okrućanac, on island of Brač it was named Plavac Šoltanski, Plavac Veliki and Slatinjanac, and around town of Trogir and town of Kaštela it is also known as Šiljak and Crljenak Slatinski. But when market demands changed and interest in red wines decreased, and
prekrasno šoltansko polje koje se rasteglo kroz cijelu kičmu otoka, od Gornjeg sela do Donjeg sela, i koje je nekad bilo gotovo cijelo prekriveno vinogradima, a danas je uglavnom zapušteno. Tek pokoji vinograd samo je spomenik vremena kada je ovo polje cijelo bilo zasađeno lozom. U jednoj šoltanskoj konobi, točeći vino iz prošlogodišnje berbe, ćakulamo o vremenima kad se šoltansko polje cijelo zelenilo pod vinogradima. Vicko Kaštelanac sjeća se kada je ovaj otok bio bogat vinogradarski kraj, i priča o vremena prije Drugog svjetskog rata, kada su godišnje berbe bile čak oko 300 vagona vina. „Neposredno nakon završetka ratnih sukoba, Poljoprivredna zadruga Grohote godišnje je otkupljivala na otoku između 30 i 40 vagona vina, a Poljoprivredna zadruga Gornje selo nešto manje. Pretpostavlja se da je toliko ostajalo i u obiteljskim konobama. No, od 1970. god. proizvodnja se vrtoglavo smanjuje, pa je zabilježeno da su zadruge 1987. otkupile svega 3 vagona“- prisjeća se vinogradar i umirovljeni upravitelj PZ Grohote Željko Burica. Danas se proizvodi svega oko vagon vina, isključivo za potrebe kućanstava, a nisu rijetki slučajevi da se prerađuje grožđe kupljeno na kopnu i drugim otocima. Šoltu je napustio veliki broj aktivnog stanovništva, a zapuštene vinogradarske površine u polju i po stranama nijemi su svjedoci zlatnog doba šoltanskog vinogradarstva. Prisjećam se da je dobričić kojega sam ranije pio uvijek je imao izraženu aromu, bio je gust i često previše opora okusa, trpak. Zbog mnogo ta-
Dobričić showed vulnerability to Plasmopora viticola, plantations of this sort were abandoned, so it remained preserved only on island of Šolta. Our hosts, wine-producers Željko Burica and Vicko Kaštelanac are waiting for us at the port, and then take us to visit vineyards. Today it’s sad to see beautiful Field of Šolta which spreads all along backbone of the island, from Selo Gornje to Selo Donje, and which was once almost all covered in vineyards, and nowadays is mostly neglected. Just a few vineyards here and there stand as a monument to times when all this field was planted in grape-wines. In a tavern in Šolta, while pouring wine from last year’s vintage, we chat about times when Field of Šolta used to be all green, covered in vineyards. Vicko Kaštelanac remembers when this island was rich viticultural region, and talks about the times before World War II, when annual vintages were even as high as 300 wagons of wine. “Immediately after the end of World War II, agricultural co-partnership Poljoprivredna zadruga Grohote was buying in between 30 and 40 wagons of wine per year, and agricultural co-partnership Poljoprovredna zadruga Gornje Selo somewhat lesser. It is estimated that equal amount remained in family taverns. But from the year 1970 production drops off drastically, so it is recorded that in 1987 co-partnerships bought only 3 wagons” - remembers Željko Burica, wineproducer and retired manager of agricultural co-partnership Poljoprovredna zadruga Grohote. ely el Today, only a wagon of wine is produced, solely
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Gledajući zapuštene površine nekadašnjih šoltanskih vinograda s uzvisine brežuljka Velika straža, u nama se rađaju emocije, nekome donose plač, a u meni bude pjesnika zaspalog još u srednjoškolskim klupama.
Došla mi je tuga stara Kad sa uspomenom progovaram. Još čujem šapat mora, Spominjem se mog škoja U tuđini teško se diše, A na škoju sve je tiše. Ljudi je sve manje, Žuljeva sve više. Tu je nono kamenje vadi, Nosi je zemlju, Tira je kozu, Sadija je lozu. Znojem je zaliva, Suzom je doliva. Uspomene još su svježe, To me za škoj veže. Gdje je rasla loza, Danas rastu drače. Zemlja plače, A mene boli sve jače. Padine i polje gledam, Sami kamen, loze nema. Bodu drače uspomene, Sve jače i jače. Gdje su rasle loze, Danas pasu koze. I rastu drače, A meni se plače. Za moga nona, Pa bio ja i mona, Potirat ću koze, Zasadit ću loze.
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nina nije baš uvijek bio ugodnog okusa, pa je bio prikladniji za bojenje drugih vina, kojima je trebalo popraviti boju, nego za potrošnju u čistom stanju. Ovakav okus je bio rezultat dugog maceriranja na dropu, čak do 15 dana. Takav dobričić je bio posebno dobar za sljubljivanje s plavcem i plavinom, pa je tako bio mnogo pitkiji nego kad se konzumirao sam. Dobričić je redovito bio vrlo ekstraktan, s 27 g/l, ali i s oko 5 g/l ukupnih kiselina, a sadržaj alkohola mu je najčešće bio oko 12 vol. posto. Tamno crvena rubin boja, koja se prelijeva u ljubičaste tragove kada se čaša zagiba, prava je karakteristika ovog vina. Zbog ove tamne boje, mnogi su stručnjaci dobričić držali najboljim vinskim “bojadisarom u Hrvatskoj”, a po nekima i u Europi. Zbog znatnog smanjenja nasada dobričića u Dalmaciji, postojala je opasnost da dođe do izumiranja ove značajne sorte, posebno vrijedne kao izvornog prirodnog vinskog “farbera”. Međutim, posljednjih godina Institut za jadranske kulture i melioraciju krša iz Splita provodi na Šolti program revitalizacije uzgoja dobričića, pa raste interes za sadnju loze ove sorte, a državni poticaji pomažu podizanju nasada, tako da postoji nada da će se očuvati ova bitna karika u našoj bogatoj vinogradarskoj baštini. U ugodnoj konobi Vicka Kaštelanca, u kojoj su i turisti česti gosti, kušamo dobričić pripremljen
for the household needs, and there are a number of cases of processing the grapes bought from continental regions or from other islands. Great number of active residents left Šolta, and neglected vineyard fields are silent witnesses of golden era of viticulture in Šolta. I remember when Dobričić that I used to drink had distinctive aroma; it was thick and often tasting too harsh, sour. Due to a lot of tannin it didn’t always taste pleasant, so it was more suitable for coloration of other wines which needed color enhancements than for consummation as a pure wine. This taste was a result of long maceration on drop, as long as 15 days. Dobričić made this way was especially suitable for melting into with Plavac and Plavina and was a lot more potable than when it was consumed by itself. Dobričić was regularly very extract, with 27 g/l, but also with around 5 g/l total acids, and alcohol content was most often around 12 vol. percent. Dark red ruby color, which glows in purple shades when the glass is moved from side to side, is this wine real characteristic. Due to this color, many experts held that Dobričić was the best “wine painter in Croatia”, and according to some, even in Europe. Due to significant decrease of plantations of Dobričić in Dalmatia, there was a danger from extinction of this important sort, especially valuable as authentically natural wine “dyestuff ”.
Watching lonesome surfaces of former vineyards of Šolta from the heights of the Velika Straža hill, emotions appear in us, for someone they bring tears on their faces, but in me they awoke poet that was sleeping from as long ago as school days.
The old sadness came to me, When I talk with recollection, I still hear the whisper of the sea, I remember my island. In the foreign country breathing is heavy, And on the island everything is calmer. There are less and less people, And more and more blisters. Grandpa used to pick stones there And carried soil, He walked the goat And he planted the grape-wines. He suffused it with his sweat, And with his tears he hosed it. Memories are still fresh, That’s what ties me to the island. Where the grape-wines used to grow Today there are weeds. Soil is crying, And it hurts me more and more. I look upon the slopes and the field, Only stones are there, no grape-wines. Thorny weeds of memories are stinging, Harder and harder. Where the grape-wines used to grow Goats graze today. And thorny weeds are growing, And I feel like crying. For my grandpa, Even if it make me a fool, I shall scatter the goats, I shall plant the grape-wines.
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However, Institute for Adriatic Cultures and Barren Land Melioration (Institut za jadranske culture i melioraciju krša) from Split is conducting the Dobričić revitalization program, so interest for this sort planting is growing, and state stimuli are helpful in building the plantations, so for now there is a hope that this important link in our rich viticultural heritage will be preserved. In Vicko Kaštelanac’s pleasant tavern, in which tourists are frequent guests, we taste Dobričić prepared by modern technology, under this sort’s restoration program carried out by experts from Institute for Adriatic Cultures from Split, led by Dr. Goran Zdunić. This wine, which is already bottled under its original label, is pronounced best on the evaluation of Dobričić, recently organized for the first time in Grohote, Šolta.
po suvremenoj tehnologiji, u okviru programa obnove ove sorte kojeg provode stručnjaci Instituta za jadranske kulture iz Splita, na čelu s dr. Goranom Zdunićem. Ovo vino, koje se već stavlja u boce pod originalnom etiketom, proglašeno je najboljim na ocjenjivanju dobričića, prvi put nedavno organiziranom u Grohotama na Šolti. Vino je sačuvalo granitnu boju sa ljubičastim preljevima, iako ne više toliko tamnu. Miris mu je bogat, s voćnom aromom, a u okusu je harmoničan, baršunast i s tek laganom oporošću i pritajenom agresivnošću, koja se dojmi kao osobnost i karakteristika vina. Vino je iznenađujuće pitko. Nije to više robustan, grub, naprasit, nepitak dobričić kojeg sam do tada poznavao, za kojeg sam uvijek tvrdio da se u njemu može uživati jedino ako se križa s mirnijim vinom. U usporedbi s ranijim dobričićem koji me asocirao na krasnog ali divljeg konja, ovog sam mogao usporediti s krasnim, divljim ali ukroćenim pastuhom. Uživali smo i u dobričiću Željka Burice u njegovoj novouređenoj konobi, spremnoj da se uklopi u vinsku cestu otoka. Njegovo vino je na tragu dobričića kojeg smo prvog kušali, i po kvaliteti i osobnosti. Odlazimo sa Šolte uvjereni da je dobričić spašen od odumiranja, a meni, gledajući s broda još jednom ovu ekološki prirodnu oazu, pada na pamet parafrazirati glasoviti stih pjesnika Jakše Fiamenga: „S ponistre se vidi Dobričić...“
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The wine kept its granite colour with purple shades, although not as dark as it use to be. Its sent is rich, with fruity aroma, and it tastes harmonic, velvety and with just a mild bitterness and latent flame, which gives an impression of this wine characteristic. The wine is surprisingly drinkable. It’s no longer a robust, rough, vehement, undrinkable Dobričić which I use to know till then, and for which I always said it could be enjoyed in only if mixed with more quiet wine. In comparison to earlier Dobričić which reminded me of a beautiful but wild horse, I could compare this one with a beautiful, wild, but tamed stallion. We also enjoyed in Željko Burica’s Dobričić in his recently restored tavern, ready to fit in the island’s wine road. His wine was on track of Dobričić we first tasted, by quality as well as by its distinctiveness. We leave Šolta convinced that Dobričić is saved from extinction, and to me, watching onto this ecologically natural oasis one more time from the ship, one thing crosses my mind – paraphrasing Jakša Fiamengo’s famous line: “Dobričić comes into view from the window…”
Spokesman of Croatian wines in America Glasnogovornik hrvatskih vina u Americi
Cliff Rames:
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liff Rames, našoj javnosti sve poznatiji promotor hrvatskih vina u Americi, jedan je od onih ljudi koji rade svoj posao s najvećim užitkom. Povezao je ljubav prema očevom rodnom kraju i strast za vinom, koja je počela upravo susretima s vinima Hrvatske za vrijeme boravaka u domovini. Danas radi kao ‘Certified Sommelier’ u hotelu Plaza u New Yorku, te vodi uspješan blog, twitter i facebook profil, sve pod nazivom ‘Wines of Croatia’, s ciljem podizanja svijesti i informiranja javnosti o Hrvatskoj, njezinim vinima, vinarima, vinskim regijama te autohtonim sortama grožđa. Njegova ideja vodilja je promovirati hrvatska vina diljem svijeta kao vina dostojna otkrivanja. Kao sve češći gost vinskih događaja u Hrvatskoj, nesebično dijeli svoja znanja i iskustva, i kako kaže, sve to radi iz ljubavi, za svoj gušt, u slobodno vrijeme i ne za novac, zato što to želi i zato što voli Hrvatsku. ‘Vjerujem da Hrvatska treba biti igrač na svjetskom vinskom tržištu i trudim se da dođe do toga’, kaže Cliff.
Interview
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liff Rames, promoter of Croatian wines in America, all the more known to Croatian public, is one of those people who do their job with utmost pleasure. He combined his love for his homeland with passion for wine, which began exactly during his encounters with Croatian wines during his stays in his fatherland. Today he works as ‘Certified Sommelier’ in Plaza Hotel, New York, and manages a successful blog, Twitter and Facebook profiles, all named “Wines of Croatia”, with a goal to raise awareness and to inform the world about Croatia, its wines, wineries, winemakers, wine-regions and autochthon grape sorts. His main idea is to promote Croatian wines around the world as wines worthy of being discovered. As all the more frequent guest of wine manifestations in Croatia, he unselfishly shares his knowledge and experiences, and, as he says, he does it all because of his love and for his pleasure, in his spare time and not for money, but because he wants to do it and because he loves Croatia. “I believe that Croatia should be the player in the world wine market and I try to make it happen”, says Cliff.
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• Kad i kako je vaš otac otišao iz rodnog kraja u Ameriku ? Moj otac, Miro, otišao je s otoka Murtera u Hrvatskoj kada je imao 16 godina, krajem 1950-ih godina. Bez ikakvog razloga, doista. Bila je to samo luda avantura jednog tinejdžera, avantura koje je zauvijek promijenila njegov život. On i neki njegovi prijatelji odlučili su brodom prijeći Jadransko more – do Italije i još dalje. Moj otac odlučio je otići u Švedsku. Čuo je da se tamo dobro živi i da ima lijepih žena. Ali uhvatila ih je talijanska mornarica, a moj otac i njegovi prijatelji poslani su u izbjeglički logor, prvo u Napulj a zatim blizu Rima. U Italiji je proveo tri godine. A onda su jednoga dana stigli nekakvi dokumenti od njegova ujaka iz New Yorka, pa je moj otac naposljetku poslan u Ameriku. Nikada nije stigao do Švedske. Da je uspio, možda bih ja sada imao plavu kosu. • Čega se rado sjećate iz djetinjstva, za vrijeme boravaka u Hrvatskoj ? U Hrvatsku sam prvi put došao kad sam imao 16 godina (iste godine imao je moj otac kada ju je napustio – neobično). Imam jako puno lijepih sjećanja iz tog nevinog vremena. Ali najradije se sjećam kada sam učio piti tursku kavu; kada sam se zaljubio na plaži u Slanici; i proslave mog šesnaestog rođendana na Murteru – dan kada sam također po prvi put doživio buru! • Kako ste došli na ideju promovirati hrvatska vina ? U Hrvatskoj sam navikao piti Dingač, a onda bih ga poželio po povratku u SAD. Ali u to vrijeme nisam znao gdje bih ga mogao naći u
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• How and when did your father left his homeland and went for America? My father, Miro, left his little island of Murter in Croatia went he was 16 years old, in the late 1950’s. There was no reason why, really. It was just the crazy adventure of a teenager, one which changed his life forever. He and some friends decided to cross the Adriatic Sea by boat – to Italy and beyond. My father decided that he wanted to go to Sweden. He heard that life was good there and the women are beautiful. But they were captured by the Italian Navy, and my father and his friends were sent to a refugee camp, first in Naples and later near Rome. He spent three years in Italy. Then one day some papers arrived from an uncle in New York, and finally my father was sent to America. He never made it to Sweden. If he did, maybe I would have blonde hair now. • What do you gladly remember from your childhood, during your stays in Croatia? I came to Croatia for the first time when I was 16 years old (the same age as my father when he left – unusual). There are so many great memories of that innocent time. But my favorites are learning how to drink Turkish coffee; falling in love at Slanica beach; and having my 16th birthday on Murter – a day when I would also experience my first ever “Bura” wind! • How did you come to the idea of promoting Croatian wines? In Croatia I got used to drinking Dingac, and then I would come home to the USA and wish for it. But at
SAD-u. Kroz moje pokušaje traženja hrvatskih vina u SAD-u shvatio sam da tamo postoji jako malo informacija o hrvatskim vinima, osobito na engleskom jeziku. Postavši sommelier prije nekoliko godina, odlučio sam iskoristiti svoje znanje i položaj kako bih promovirao hrvatska vina. Ali s obzirom da je tako malo informacija bilo dostupno shvatio sam da sam pronašao nišu koju treba popuniti, pa sam pokrenuo projekt “Wines in Croatia” (Vina u Hrvatskoj) kako bih podijelio svoju ljubav prema tim vinima i njihove priče sa svakim koga bi to moglo zanimati. • Što je vaša pokretačka snaga ? Puno toga me pokreće, ali prvenstveno želja da udovoljim drugima i pribavim nešto što će ih razveseliti ili uzbuditi. Zato sam postao sommelier. Vino usrećuje ljude, a ja uživam činiti ljude sretnima. Isto je i s projektom “Wines in Croatia”. Ljudi mi kažu kako su zanimljive informacije, koliko im se sviđaju moji članci na blogu, a onda – kada po prvi put kušaju vina, čarobno je promatrati njihov osmjeh. To je osmjeh iznenađenja i otkrića, i to mi pruža snagu i motivaciju da im pomognem doći do te točke. Zvuči sexy, zar ne? • Koja vina najbolje idu u Hotelu Plaza ? Iznenadili biste se. Luksuzna vina i vina iz osobne kolekcije, tzv. "library wines", (drugim riječima skupa vina) slabo se prodaju, čak i u Plaza hotelu. Plaza ih je čak prestala kupovati. Prosječna cijena boce vina u Plazinim restoranima kreće se između 75 i 165 dolara. Daleko najprodavanije vino je – šampanjac. Ljudi uvijek vole šampanjac. Nažalost, trenutačno nema niti jednog hrvatskog vina u ponudi u Plazi. Ali radim na tome da se to promijeni! • Što inače preferiraju Amerikanci ? Cijena uobičajenih vina koja se trenutno najbolje prodaju – u vinotekama – kreće se između 6 i 15 dolara. Argentinska vina su vrlo poželjna – sjajno se prodaju, a Malbec je vodeći među njima. I vina iz Čilea također su vrlo tražena, a i talijanska vina nastavljaju se dobro prodavati. U smislu novih, neobičnih regija, Austrija, Mađarska i Grčka sve su popularnije. Amerikanci najčešće preferiraju blaga vina voćne arome koja se odmah piju, koja su dobre kvalitete i sa razumnom cijenom. Kao i uvijek, Chardonnay je najprodavanije bijelo vino. Od crnih vina, Pinot Noir, Malbec iz Argentine, Shiraz, te talijanska crna vina se redom dobro prodaju. Prodaja francuskih vina uopće ne raste. A Hrvatska tek čeka da je Amerikanci otkriju. • Ima li interesa za hrvatska vina ? Za hrvatska vina ima prilično interesa i znatiželje, i to je sjajno. Ljudima se uglavnom sviđaju hrvatska vina i priče o Hrvatskoj. Ali sva ta "aktivnost" još uvijek se nije pretočila u veliku prodaju. Moramo raditi na tome s daleko bolje organiziranom promocijom s boljom podrškom. Također, moramo stvoriti i program kojega ćemo poslati američkim reporterima, kupcima vina i
the time I did not know where to find it in the US. Through the process of trying to find Croatian wines in the USA, I realized that very little information about Croatian wines existed, especially in English. When I became a sommelier a few years ago, I decided to use my knowledge and position to promote Croatian wines. But because so little information was available, I realized that I found a niche that needed to be filled, so I started the Wines of Croatia project to share my love for these wines and their stories with whoever would be interested. • What is your driving force? Many things, but mainly it is the desire to please other people and provide something that makes them happy or excited. That’s why I became a sommelier. Wine makes people happy, and it gives me joy when I am making other people happy. Same goes with “Wines of Croatia” project. People tell me how interesting the information is, how much they love my blog articles, and then – when they taste the wines for the first time, it is magic to watch their smile. It is the smile of surprise and discovery, and it gives me strength and motivation to help them reach that point. Sounds sexy, right? • Which are the best selling wines in Plaza Hotel? You would be surprised. Luxury, library wines (in other words, expensive) are not selling well, even in the Plaza. The Plaza has even stopped buying them. The average bottle price in the Plaza restaurants is between $75 – $165. The best selling wine – by far – is Champagne. People always love Champagne. Unfortunately, there are no Croatian wines currently offered in the Plaza. But I am working on changing that! • What do Americans usually prefer? In general wines that are selling best now – in wine shops - are bottles costing between $6 and $15. Argentine wines are hot – sales are crazy, with Malbec leading the way. Chilean wines are also hot, and Italian wines continue to do well. In terms of new, unusual regions, Austria, Hungary and Greece are gaining in popularity. Americans generally prefer soft, fruity, early-drinking wines that have good quality for a reasonable price. As always, Chandonnay is the best selling white wine. On the red side, Pinot Noir, Malbec from Argentina, Shiraz, and Italian reds are all doing very well. Sales of French wine are not growing at all. And Croatia is waiting to be discovered. • Is there any interest for Croatian wines? There is a lot of interest and curiosity, and that is great. People generally like the wines and the story of Croatia. But all this “noise” has not yet really translated into big sales. We need to work on that with more organized and better supported promotion. We also must create a program
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sommelierima na vinskim turnejama po Hrvatskoj. To je strahovito bitan dio strategije koji nedostaje. Hrvatska vina zbog svoje jedinstvenosti, priče, i visokih cijena MORAJU biti prodavana u restoranima osobno od strane sommeliera, u protivnom će jednostavno čeznutljivo venuti na vinskim kartama. Zanimljivi i uzbudljivi sommelieri su ključ uspjeha. Da bi to postigli na najbolji način, moraju doći u Hrvatsku i iskusiti čaroliju. • Kakva su vaša iskustva vezana uz vinarstvo u Hrvatskoj; vrline i mane ? Kao i u svakoj situaciji procjene niza proizvoda, postoje loši, dobri, bolji i odlični primjeri. Ali moja iskustva su uglavnom bila sjajna. Pozitivne stvari su jedinstveni hrvatski terroir i varijacije grožđa; ostrašćenost vinara, ekološki čista područja na kojima se nalaze vinogradi; i turizam koji pomaže da se strancima iskustvo hrvatskih vina eksponira. Bilo je nekih kritika da hrvatska vina sadržavaju preveliku količinu alkohola i da se previše osjeća hrastovina. Ponekad se slažem s tim, i da, vinari moraju biti pažljivi i sigurni da su njihova vina dobro izbalansirana. Ukoliko upotrebljavate hrastovinu ili imate veliki postotak alkohola u svom vinu, morate imati voćnu aromu i strukturu koja to podržava i usklađuje. No, moje je mišljenje da je većina vinara svjesna ovih problema i da eksperimentiraju. Ipak će trebati nekoliko godina prije no što neki od njih pronađu pravi stil. Problem je u tome što je vrijeme novac, pa nema puno vremena za eksperimentiranje. To nas dovodi do onoga što me najviše brine. Cijena. Hrvatska vina su redovito skupa. Da, može se naći nekoliko boca za manje od 20 dolara, poput Enjingi Fresh Graševina, Bib Bi b Debit i Riserva, te Vinarija Dingač Plavac, Bibić
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to send to American journalists, wine buyers and sommeliers on wine tours of Croatia. It is a very important piece of the strategy that is missing. Croatian wines, because of their uniqueness, story, and high prices MUST be hand-sold in restaurants by sommeliers or else they will just languish on the wine list. Interested, excited sommeliers are the key. To make that happen in the best way, they must go to Croatia to experience the magic. • What are your experiences regarding wine-production in Croatia; advantages and disadvantages? Like in every situation or product line-up, there are poor, good, better and excellent examples. But my experience has been mostly great. The positive things are Croatia’s unique terroir and grapes varieties; the passion the winemakers; the eco-clean areas where vineyards are present; and tourism, which help to expose outsiders to the Croatian wine experience. There has been some criticism of Croatian wines for too high alcohol or too much oak. Sometimes I agree with this, and yes, winemakers must be careful to make sure that the wines are balanced. If you use oak or have high alcohol, you must also have the fruit and structure to support them and harmonize the wine. But I think most serious winemakers are aware of these issues and are experimenting. It will still be some years before some of them find a style that works. The problem is time costs money, so there is not a lot of time for experimenting, which leads us to the biggest concern I have; the prices. Croatian wines are generally expensive. Yes, you can find a few bottles for
less than $20, like Enjingi Fresh Graševina, Bibić Debit and Riserva, and Vinarija Dingač Plavac, but many are more than $20 and even as high as $50, $65 and $90. That is a lot of money for a wine that many people have never tried or heard of. It also comes at a time when the average price of the best selling bottles in the US is $6 - $15. So we must think of very creative ways to market and sell Croatian wines abroad. But it would be better for the prices to come down. Hopefully they will eventually, as wineries improve their efficiency through technology and bring new vineyard plantings into production. ali mnoga vina su skuplja od 20 dolara, a dostižu cijene i do 50, 65, čak i 90 dolara. To je jako puno novca za vino koje mnogo ljudi nikada nije kušalo niti je čulo za njega. Također, ta vina se pojavljuju u trenutku kada se prosječna cijena najprodavanijih vina u SAD-u kreće između 6 i 15 dolara. Stoga moramo iznaći vrlo kreativne načine da ponudimo hrvatska vina na tržište i prodamo ih posvuda. Ali bilo bolje da se cijene snize. Nadajmo se da će se to naposljetku i dogoditi, kad vinari unaprijede svoju učinkovist kroz tehnologiju i krenu s proizvodnjom zasada iz novih vinograda. • Po vašem mišljenju, koje hrvatske sorte grožđa imaju najveći potencijal za proizvodnju vina svjetske klase ? Svi znaju za Plavac Mali i vole ga. On ima sjajnu povijest, i u pravim rukama to bi bilo jedno zaista sjajno vino. Stoga, naravno da mislim da ta sorta ima veliki potencijal. Vinari samo moraju paziti na razinu alkohola, koja može biti visoka i učiniti da vino bude loše izbalansirano. I preniskoj kiselosti treba posvetiti pozornost. Ali ove stvari se mogu kontrolirati u vinogradu novim tehnikama za gospodarenje vinogradima, a neki vinari već su počeli ostvarivati poboljšanja. Graševina je još jedna sorta koja, po mom mišljenju, ima veliki potencijal kao sjajno, cijenom dostupno stolno vino, kao kvalitetno vino, i kao desertno vino. Može biti svježe i suho i britko. Može biti zrelo, raskošno i blago. Može biti puno voća i minerala. I zadovoljava kriterije za vrlo intenzivna slatka vina. Ali berbe moraju biti kontrolirane i mora imati pravi terroir. Graševina ima najveći potencijal kao hrvatsko “gateway” vino za ulazak na inozemno tržište – vino s dobrom do odličnom kvalitetom koje je zanimljivo piti,
• Which Croatian grape sorts, in your opinion, have the biggest potential for the world-class wine production? Everybody knows and loves Plavac Mali. It has a great story, and in the right hands it makes a great wine. So of course I think there is a lot of potential with this grape. Winemakers must just be careful of the alcohol levels, which can be high and make the wines out of balance. Too low acidity is another concern. But these things can be controlled in the vineyard with new vineyard management techniques, and some winemakers have already started to make improvements. Graševina is another grape that I think has big potential as a great, affordable table wine, as a quality wine, and as a dessert wine. It can be fresh and dry and crisp. It can be ripe and lush and soft. It can be full or fruits and minerals. And it is capable of very profound sweet wines. But its yields must be controlled and it must have the right terroir. Graševina has the greatest potential as Croatia’s “gateway wine” – a good to great quality wine that is interesting and easy to drink and does not cost too much (less than $20). Other grapes that are showing great promise are Malvasia Istriana, Pošip, and Teran. A few more are still “work in progress” but I think very interesting to watch as potentially important players in the future are: Babić, Debit, Lasina, Malvasija Dubrovačka, Maraština, and Žlahtina. • Where do you see Croatian wines in the world market? In a similar category or class as with Austria, Greece, Hungary, Italy and some other regions like Priorat in Spain.
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koje se lako ispija i ne košta puno (manje od 20 dolara). Ostale sorte koje puno obećavaju su Istarska Malvazija, Pošip i Teran. Ima ih još nekoliko u kategoriji “radovi u tijeku” ali mislim da je vrlo zanimljivo promatrati potencijalno značajne igrače u budućnosti: Babić, Debit, Lasina, Malvazija Dubrovačka, Maraština i Žlahtina. • Gdje vidite hrvatska vina na svjetskom tržištu ? U sličnoj kategoriji ili klasi s Austrijom, Grčkom, Mađarskom, Italijom i nekim drugim regijama kao što je Priorat u Španjolskoj. • Postoje li neka naša vina koja se lagano etabliraju na američkom tržištu ili su na dobrom putu ? Vina Bibića, Enjingija, te Zlatana Plenkovića prisutna su na tržištu SAD-a već 4-5 godina i sva su utabala put u svojoj tržišnoj niši. Plenkovićeva vina su do sada vjerojatno imala najveći uspjeh i uživaju veliko priznanje. Ali Bibićeva su vina otvorila vrata mnogim drugima, zbog čega ih nazivam pionirima. Ali ono što je uzbudljivo nije prošlost nego budućnost. Nedavno su se na američkom tržištu pojavila vina mnogih drugih proizvođača kao što je Clai, Coronica, Karaman, Korta Katarina, Miloš, Pilizota, Saints Hills, Toreta i Zdjelarević. Mnoga od ovih vina još uvijek pokušavaju pronaći svoj put na tržište, ali sam uzbuđen zbog kvalitete i priče koju ta vina donose sa sobom. Sada samo moramo marljivo raditi na njihovoj promociji, provesti degustacije i ispričati njihove priče kako bi se Amerikanci mogli zaljubiti u njih. • Smatrate da su nam potrebna tzv. ‘gateway’ vina... recite nam nešto više o tome ? Portfolio ponude vina bilo koje zemlje mora sadržavati selekciju ne odveć skupih vina vrlo dobre kvalitete kako bi onima koji se prvi put susreću s njima što lakše omogućilo mjesto za početak. Netko tko nikada nije probao hrvatska vina i ne zna ništa o njima vrlo nevoljko će riskirati i izdvojiti 25 ili 65 dolara za bocu. Ali ukoliko su zainteresirani, vjerojatno će potrošiti 12 ili 15 dolara da vide o čemu se radi. Ako im se doista svidi, možda će drugi put kupiti bocu koja je nešto skuplja. Ako imaju dobra iskustva, možda će naposljetku kupiti bocu od 50 dolara za neku posebnu prigodu. Ali bez polazne točke, ili “gateway vina”, vrlo je teško privući nove potrošače i puno više novca mora se potrošiti na degustacije i marketing. • Kako vidite strategiju osvajanja američkog tržišta ? Na izložbi vina Vinistra ove godine sam zapravo održao prezentaciju o ovoj temi. O tome možete pročitati na: http://winesofcroatia.wordpress. com/2010/05/12/vinistra-2010-round-table-international-branding-of-croatian-wine/. Ali ono što je sada najvažnije je da se kreira službena marketinška organizacija za vino pod nazivom “Hrvatska vina” i da se krene s ozbiljnom, profesionalnom i dobro utemeljenom promocijom jjo m na ključnim tržištima kao što su New York,
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• Are there any Croatian wines which are slowly beginning to set up in American market or which are in a good way to be settled? The wines of Bibić, Enjingi, Zlatan Plenković have been on the US market for 4-5 years already and have each carved out niche markets. Plenković wines until now have probably had the greatest success and enjoy a lot of recognition. But the Bibić wines have opened a lot of doors to others, which is why I call them pioneers. But what is very exciting is not the past but the future. Recently the wines of many other producers have entered the US market, like Clai, Coronica, Karaman, Korta Katarina, Miloš, Pilizota, Saints Hills, Toreta and Zdjelarević. Many of these wines are still trying to find their place on the market, but I am excited by the quality and stories they bring with them. Now we just have to work hard to promote them, conduct tastings and tell their stories so that Americans can fall in love with them. • Do you think we need so called “gateway” wines... tell us something more about it? Any country’s portfolio of wine offerings must have a selection of less expensive wines that are of very good quality in order to give newcomers an easy place to start. Someone who never tried Croatian wine and does not know anything about it, will be very reluctant to take the risk and spend $25 or $65 for a bottle. But if they are interested, they probably would spend $12 or $15 to see what it is about. If they really like it, they may buy a bottle for a little more next time. If they have nice experiences, then eventually they may buy the $50 bottle for a special occasion; but without a point of entry, or „gateway wine“, it is very hard to bring in new consumers and much more money must be spent on tastings and marketing. • How do you see the strategy of winning the American market? At wine exhibit Vinistra this year I actually made a presentation about this subject. You can read about it here: http://winesofcroatia.wordpress.com/2010/05/12/vinistra-2010-round-table-international-branding-of-croatian-wine/. But what is most important now is to create a formal wine marketing organization under the “Wines of Croatia” banner and start with serious, professional, and well-funded promotion in the key markets, such as New York, Chicago, and California, as well as London and a few other places. I am ready to start and have created the role model for how Wines of Croatia can operate. While Wines of Croatia has achieved a lot in just one year, so much more needs to be done, and so much more can be done with the proper support. We need the dedicated and
Chicago, i Kalifornija, kao i London i još neka druga mjesta. Ja sam spreman početi i stvorio sam model, način na koji Hrvatska vina mogu raditi. Iako su Hrvatska vina postigla puno u samo jednoj godini, još se jako puno toga mora učiniti, i još jako puno toga se može učiniti uz pristojnu podršku. Potrebna nam je predana i kontinuirana podrška državnih agencija kao što su Odbor za turizam, Gospodarska komora i Ministarstvo poljoprivrede, u cilju stvaranja ozbiljnog, profesionalnog, kvalitetnog i održivog programa promocije. Ove agencije već su počele pružati neku podršku, i to je sjajno, a nedavno stvaranje nove udruge vinara pod nazivom “Wines of Croatia” je vrlo dobar i pozitivan korak. Većina drugih država koje proizvode vina imaju marketinšku podršku vladinih agencija. Danas sam, primjerice, dobio prekrasnu pozivnicu da prisustvujem godišnjoj grand degustaciji vina “Wines of Israel” u New Yorku. Taj događaj sponzorira Gospodarska misija u Sjevernoj Aamerici Izraelske vlade, Izraelski izvoz & Međunarodni institut za suradnju, izraelsko Ministarstvo turizma, i Atlanta Imports. Sanjam o danu kada će Hrvatska uživati takvu vrstu moćnog zastupanja u SAD-u. • Kakve marketinške akcije predlažete radi što bolje promocije hrvatskih vina ? 1. Utemeljiti službenu organizaciju “Wines of Croatia” s misijom podizanja svijesti o promociji hrvatskih vina diljem svijeta. Ja sam već otpočeo s tim. Vrijeme je da to prijeđe na iduću razinu. 2. Održati barem jednu veću manifestaciju grand degustacije vina Wines of Croatia u SAD-u svake godine, gdje se proizvođači vina i uvoznici mogu naći i razgovarati, te uliti svoja vina ciljanoj grupi sommeliera, kupaca vina i izvjestiteljima. 3. Stvoriti lijepe, artikulirane i profesionalno proizvedene marketinške materijale, uključujući i mape vinskih područja. 4. Imati budžet koji omogućava godišnje barem dva novinarska posjeta Hrvatskoj i jedno gostovanje odabrane grupe sommeliera koja bi posjetila hrvatske vinske regije i vinarije. 5. Konzultirati se s vinarijama u Hrvatskoj i informirati ih kako bi bile ažurirane i savjetovane o najnovijim tržišnim trendovima i uvjetima u zemljeama u koje izvoze. 6. Oformiti niz standarda za etiketiranje izvoznih vina. 7. Utemeljeti nacionalni program kontrole kvalitete poput “Istrian Quality” i njemačkih VDP programa. 8. Više se povezati s udrugama vinara i institucijama koje se bave edukacijom o vinima u SAD-u i drugdje. 9. Dovršiti i pokrenuti web-stranice Wines of Croatia.com i investirati u njihovu održivost, kao i druge društvene medije kao što su Twitter, Facebook i blog. Zapravo, očajnički mi treba netko da mi pomogne oko računa “Wines of Croatia” na Twitteru. Ja nemam vremena za to!!
continuous support of Croatian government agencies like the Board of Tourism, Chamber of Economy and Ministry of Agriculture in order to create a serious, professional, quality, and sustainable program of promotion. Some support from these agencies has already started, and that is great, and the recent creation of a new association of winemakers under the banner “Wines of Croatia” is a very good and positive step. Most other wine-producing countries have government supported marketing agencies. For example, today I received a beautiful invitation to attend the annual Wines of Israel grand tasting in New York. The event is being sponsored by the Government of Israel Economic Mission to North America, the Israeli Export & International Cooperation Institute, the Israel Ministry of Tourism, and Atalanta Imports. I dream of the day when Croatia will have that kind of powerful representation in the US. • What marketing actions do you propose in order to promote Croatian wines in the best possible way? 1. Establish a formal Wines of Croatia organization with the mission to raise awareness about Croatian wines and promote them around the world. I have already started this. The time has come to take it to the next level. 2. Have at least one major Wines of Croatia grand tasting event in the USA every year, where winemakers and importers can come and talk about and pour their wines for a targeted group of sommeliers, wine buyers and journalists. 3. Create beautiful, articulate and professionallyproduced marketing materials, including maps of the wine regions. 4. Have a budget that allows for at least two press trips to Croatia per year and one trip for a selected group of sommeliers to visit Croatia’s wine regions and wineries. 5. Consult with and inform the wineries in Croatia so that they are up-to-date and advised about the latest market trends and conditions in the export countries. 6. Create a set of labeling standards for export wines. 7. Establish a national quality control program like the “Istrian Quality” and the German VDP programs. 8. Get more involved with wine associations and wine education institutions in the US and elsewhere. 9. Finish and launch the Wines of Croatia.com website and invest in its sustainability, as well as in other social media such as Twitter, Facebook and the blog. Actually, I desperately need someone to help me with the Wines of Croatia Twitter account. I do not have time for it!!
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Č
Opolo
esto su situacije u životu nepredvidive. Tako već godinama kopam po arhivima i prelistavam novine da pronađem nepoznate zanimljivosti iz prošlosti dalmatinskog vinarstva, i teško dolazim do neobjavljenih i nepoznatih podataka, a onda nenadano informacija sama dođe. Nedavno, u smiraj dana prolazeći splitskom tržnicom, baš tamo gdje se inače prodaje grožđe, zaustavi me nepoznata osoba s pitanjem: “ Jeste li vi onaj što pišete o vinu?“. Nakon što sam sramežljivo klimnuo glavom, razvila se priča. Njegov djed je davno, tamo između dva rata, dobio nagradu na ocjenjivanju vina čak u Belgiji. Insistira da vidim diplomu, a kuća mu je tu preko puta. I tako doznajem nepoznati podatak: Mate Peribonio iz Splita dobi je Grand prix avce medaille d’or (Glavna nagrada s zlatnom medaljom) i to za vino „Opolo sa Lissa“ (Visa) na Međunarodnoj izložbi u Liege 1926. godine. Ponukan ovim podacima, dalje istražujem i utvrđujem da je to svojevremeno bilo vrlo respektabilno europsko ocjenjivanje vina, na kojem su dominirali uzorci iz Njemačke i Francuske. Eto, naš je opolo svojom kvalitetom nadvisio tada mnoga poznatija vina. Međutim nije to bio jedini slučaj da je dalmatinski opolo zadivio vinske poznavatelje. Tako je bio zapažen na gospodarsko-šumarskoj jubilarnoj izložbi u Zagrebu 1891. godine, a stručnjak Janko Ibler, u prikazu dalmatinskih vina je napisao :
Priča o posebnom vinu opolo, koje se isključivo proizvodilo kod nas, počinje mnogo ranije. Tako neki stručnjaci drže da tradicija opola seže još u antičko doba i da je u naš jezik ušao naziv još iz vremena grčke kolonizacije Jadranskih otoka. Naime, tvrdi se da ime dolazi od grčke riječi hapalos, što označava nježnost, kako se često opisuje okus opola. Međutim, iako je teško to prihvatiti, neosporno je da se u Dalmaciji od davnine, uz crna vatrena vina za sljubljivanje i srednje crna vina, proizvodi i opolo (šiler). Širenje proizvodnje opola vezuje se za izvoz vina u Francusku. Naime kada je filoksera tamo uništila velike vinogradarske površine, nastala je potražnja za tamnim gustim oporim vinima iz Dalmacije, koja su se dobivala od izvornih dalmatinskih sorti (ninčuše, dobričića i dr.) dugim držanjem na dropu, čak do 15 dana. Takva vina koji su francuski trgovci kupovali, nisu bila pogodna za direktnu konzumaciju, ali se križanjem s francuskim vinima dobivala idealna zamjena glasovitih francuskih vina. Kada je izvoz u Francusku prestao, došlo je do apsurda, jer je zbog obnove vinograda bilo na pretek vina ali koja nisu bila za direktnu konzumaciju. Tada se mijenjaju navike, i od sorti od kojih su se dobivala teška i vatrena vina, kraćim držanjem na dropu ili bez držanja uopće, dobivaju se pitkija,
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Piše: Zvonimir Štimac
„Stolna vina koja se u Dalmaciji nazivaju „opol“ priređuju se iz istih vrsta grožđa kao i crna vina. Ta su vina boje crvene, kao rubin, posve čista okusa, sasvim malo trpka, dapače ljupka, no dosta često oviše jaka. Imadu fin miris, osobito nakon dvije godine te mnogo naliče na Bordeaux vina.“
Opoli su najčešće tamnije ružičaste do svjetlije crvenkaste boje, ugodnog skladnog okusa, bez trpkih i gorkih sastojaka koji se najčešće izlužuju iz krutih dijelova grožđa dužom maceracijom. Zato je ovo vino izuzetno pitko, lagane ugodne arome, a najčešće ima oko 12 vol % alkohola, uz ukupnu kiselinu od oko 6 g/l. Opolo pristaje uz mnoga jela od bijelog i tamnog mesa, te uz sušeno i ne puno masno meso. Servira se na temperaturi od 14-16 stupnjeva Celzijevih.
V
The Opolo wines are most often of dark ruddy to light ruddy colour, of an agreeable harmonious taste, without sour and bitter elements, which most often derive from crude parts of the grapes by longer maceration. Therefore this wine is extremely potable, of a light pleasing aroma, most often with 12 vol % of alcohol and total acidity of about 6 g/l. Opolo wine goes with many dishes of various foods. It is served at a temperature of 14-16 degrees of Celsius.
Written by: Zvonimir Štimac
- vino koje se vraća wine comes back
ery often, situations in life are not predictable. So, for years now I have been digging through archives and browsing through newspapers in order to find the unknown interesting things from the past of Dalmatian wine production, finding it hard to obtain unknown and unpublished data, then suddenly information emerged by itself. Not long ago, one evening while walking down the market of the Split town, exactly at the place where actually grape is sold, a person stopped me with a question: “Are you the one that writes about wine?“. After my shy nodding, story unfolds. His grand-dad was, long time ago, between two wars, awarded the prize on the wine evaluation, even in Belgium. He insists that I see the diploma, and his house is there, right across from us. And that is how I found out the unknown information: Mate Peribonio from Split has won Grand prix avec medaille d’or (Main award with a gold medal) for a wine „Opolo from Lissa“ (island of Vis) on the International exhibit in Liege 1926. Prompted by this information, I investigated further and I established that, at the time, it was a very respectable European wine evaluation, where samples from Germany and France dominated. And there, our Opolo, with its quality, did overtop a lot of other, at the time well-known wines. However, this was not the only case when Dalmatian Opolo impressed wine experts. Thus Dalmatian Opolo was noticed at economic-forestry anniversary exhibition in Zagreb 1891 year, and the expert Janko Ibler, in his Dalmatian wines display wrote: “Table wines which in Dalmatia carry the name “opol” are made from the same type of grapes as red wines are made of. These wines have red colour, as Rubin, they taste completely pure, they are very little sour, even graceful, but often they are too strong. They smell nice, especially after two years and they carry great resemblance to Bordeaux wines“. Story about special wine Opolo, which has been produced exclusively by us, starts a lot earlier. So, some experts hold that Opolo tradition goes far back in antique times and that denomination entered our language from times of Greek colonisation of Adriatic islands. Namely, it has been said that its name comes from the Greek word “hapalo”, which means tenderness, as often it is said about Opolo characteristics. Although it is hard to accept it, it is undisputed that in Dalmatia from the times immemorial, along with zealous wines for kerning and medium red wines, Opolo (šiler) has been produced also. Expansion of Opolo production is related to export of wines to France. Namely, when phyloxera destroyed huge wine-grower plantations, demand increased for dark thick bitter wines from Dalmatia, which were raised from the authentic Dalmatian sorts (ninčuša, dobričić etc.) by long keeping in the must condition. Wines like those, which were bought by French merchants, were not suitable for direct consummation, but with their crossbreeding with French wines, ideal replacements of famous French wines were obtained. When export to France stopped, it came to absurd, because due to renovation of wineyard, there appeared a surplus of wines that were not suitable for direct consummama-
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tanja i prihvatljiva vina koja su se nazivala zajedničkim imenom Opolo (ime navodno dolazi od izreke „držim ga oko pola vremena na dropu“). Poznati stručnjak Stanko Ožanić također tvrdi da „od tada datira veća proizvodnja opola i bijelih vina“, i navodi dvije vrste opola: vatreni i srednji opolo, koja pripadaju grupi srednjih crnih vina i koristili su se za izravni konzumaciju. Dakle, opoli se proizvode od istih vrsta loze kao i crna vina, ali postupak priređivanja je različit. Crna vina u Dalmaciji su se držala na dropu čak i do petnaest dana, a opolo se pripravljao na način da se kom pustio vrijeti najviše 1-2 dana ili nimalo. Zbog toga se ova vina razlikuju od crnih ne samo po slabijoj boji, već i po manjem sadržaju ekstrakta. Opolo je tip vina koji se proizvodio diljem Dalmacije. Poznatiji su opoli iz Svirća na otoku Hvaru, iz Blata na Korčuli, Šibenika, a izuzetne kakvoće je i kaštelanski opolo. Posebno je bio cijenjen opolo priređen od grožđa iz Splitskog polja. Opolo se najviše proizvodio od loze sorti plavac mali i plavine, iako se u svakom kraju drukčije priprema. U nekim mjestima se ne proizvodi isključivo od crnog grožđa, pa se tako na otoku Visu s crnim sortama grožđa pomiješa i određeni postotak bijele kurtelaške, koja ovom vinu daje osobitu finoću i karakteristike. Stari je bio običaj u Splitu da se dobrim opolom počasti dragog gosta. Tako je car i kralj Franjo I, koji je 3. svibnja 1818. godine pohodio Split, posjetio stan dr. Karla Lanza da bi vidio zbirku antičkih medalja, a ovaj je neke najljepše darovao vladaru da se pohrane u carskoj zbirci u Beču. Prema predaji, domaćin je goste počastio vinom iz splitskog polja, posebno jednim opolom kojim su se splitski vinari dičili. Inače, carevi iz dinastije Habsburgovaca bili su veliki ljubitelji i poznavatelji vina, pa je i sam car Franjo Josip I, godine 1875. prilikom obilaska Dalmacije, posjeto Enološko društvo u Splitu. Dalje prema predaji, u ovom vinu je uživao i njegov sin jedinac nadvojvoda Rudolf sa suprugom Stefanijom, kada su 1885. godine posjetili Split. Svojim posjetom, prijestoljonasljednik je obilježio okončanje radova na restauraciji katedrale koju je finacirala tadašnja monarhistička vlast. a šaputalo se da je poslije svečanog otvaranja obnovljene prvostolnice Rudolf cijelu noć ispijao splitski opolo i svađao se sa suprugom Stefanijom. Prijestolonasljednik je bio liberalnih nazora, a Bečom se prepričavalo da mu provodi sa ženama i ispijanje dobrih vina nisu strani, pa je zbog svega toga često dolazio u sukob s ocem. Četiri godine nakon posjete Splitu, 29. siječnja 1889. godine, u lovačkom dvorcu Mayerling dogodila se tragedija kada je ubio ljubavnicu, prekrasnu 17-godišnju baronesu Mariju Večeru, a nakon toga pucao sebi u glavu što je kasnije bila inspiracija za mnoge priče, romane i filmove. Opolo, kao poseban izvorni dalmatinski tip vina, mn mnogi uvrštavaju među rose vina. Ipak, držimo da
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se radi o različitim tipovima vina, iako obje vrste mnogi stručnjaci stavlju u grupu ružičastih vina. Europski tip rosea ima različite boje, najčešće ružičasto-crvenkastu, dok je opolo svjetlije crvenkaste do tamnije ružičaste boje. Rose je u pravilu samotok, i to najčešće isključivo crnih grožđa (ili pak iz bijelih vina kojima se dodaje manja količina crnog vina), a opolo se najčešće proizvodi kratkim odležavanjima na dropu (jedan do tri dana). Prema tome, proizvodnja opola je tradicionalna i posebna u Dalmaciji, pa se opolo razlikuje od drugih ružičastih vina. Nakon Drugog svjetskog rata, dalmatinski opolo je bio traženi tip vina. Tada se pojedine robne marke prodaju u milijunskim serijama (‘Vaš Roko’ iz Dalmacijavina, s likom glumca B. Dvornika na etiketi) i izvoze se u mnoge zemlje (Plavac-opolo). Međutim, poslije dolazi do pada interesa, pa opolo dugo nije punjen u boce na organiziranom tržištu. Ovo vino sve više zamjenjuju vina proizvedena po postupku sličnom za proizvodnju vina rose (Šibenski rose, Zlatan rose, Benkovački rose itd ) koja su ipak različita od proizvodnje tradicionalnih dalmatinskih opola. U posljednje vrijeme, neki su proizvođači uvrstili opolo u svoj proizvodni program vinarije (Bol, Primošten, Bastijana iz Jelse i dr.) što daje nadu da će u našoj vinskoj ponudi opolo ponovno zauzeti ono mjesto koje mu po tradiciji pripada.
tion. Then habits changed, and from sorts from which heavy and zealous wines were gained, with shorter keeping in must condition or without such keeping at all, more potable, thinner and more acceptable wines were gained which all have one mutual name Opolo (as it is said, name comes from the saying „I keep it about half time in must condition“). Well-known expert Stanko Ožanić also says that „from that time, greater producing of Opolo and white wines starts“, and quotes two types of Opolo: zealous and medium Opolo, which belong to group of medium red wines and which are used for direct consummation. So, Opolo wines are produced from the same grapevine sorts as red wines, but the manufacturing process is different. Red wines in Dalmatia were held up to fifteen days in must condition, and Opolo wines were made in the way that must was allowed to ferment up to two days, or none at all. For this reason these wines differ from the red ones not only by minor colour, but by less extract contents. Opolo is a type of wine that has been manufactured alongside the Dalmatina highway. Very known are Opolo wines from Svirća on the Hvar island, from Blato on the Korčula island, from Šibenik, and Opolo from Kaštela region is of an exquisite quality. Especially esteemed was the Opolo wine from the Split field. The Opolo wine was commonly produces from the sorts Plavac Mali and Plavine, although each region has its own way of production. In some places it is not produced only from the red grapes, so on the island of Vis with red sorts of grapes a certain percentage of the white Kurtela sort is mixed in, which gives to this wine a special delicacy and fine characteristics. It was an old custom in Split to treat a dear guest with a good Opolo wine. So the tzar and king Francis I, who visited Split on May 3, 1818, visited also
the apartment of dr. Karl Lanz to see a collection of antique medals, and the doctor made a gift of some of the most precious to the emperor to be kept in the emperor’s treasure collection in Wienna. According to sayings, the host honoured the guests with the wines from the Split field, especially with an Opolo wine, on which the Split wine producers prided themselves very much. Namely, the emperors from the Habsburg dynasty were great lovers and connoisseurs of wines. Even the tzar Francis Joseph I, himself, in the year of 1875, while visiting Dalmatia, went to see the Enology Society in Split. Further, according to sayings, his only son the archduke Rudolf enjoyed this wine with his wife Stephany, when they visited Split in the year of 1885. By his visit, the heir to the throne marked the termination of the works on the cathedral renovation, financed by the then monarchist authority. The rumour was, that after the solemn opening of the renovated cathedral, Rudolf spent the night drinking the Split Opolo wine and quarrelled with his wife Stephany. The heir to the throne was of rather liberal attitudes, and through Wienna there were talks that associating with libertine women and drinking of good wines were not unknown to him, and that because of it he came into conflict with his father very often. Four years after his visit to Split, on January 29, 1889, in the hunting castle of Mayerling, a tragedy took place, when he killed the beautiful lover, 17 years old baronesse Marija Večera, and after that he shot himself in the head, which later became the inspiration for many stories, novels and films. Opolo, as a special, genuine Dalmatian type of wine, is put among rose wines by many. However, we think that it is a matter of different types of wines, although both sorts are put into the same group of ruddy wines by many experts. The European type of rose has different colours, most often ruddy-red, while Opolo wine is of the lighter to darker ruddy colour. Rose is, as a rule, made from one sort only, and most often exclusively of red grapes (or from white wines to which a smaller quantity of red wine is added), and Opolo is most often produced by a short staying in must condition (one to three days). According to than, the production of Opolo wine is traditional and special in Dalmatia, so that Opolo wine differs from other rose wines. After the Second World War, Dalmatian Opolo wine was a demanded type of wine. Then, particular trade marks are sold in series of millions (“Vaš Roko” - from Dalmacijavino, with a face of the actor B. Dvornik on the label) and are exported to many countries (Plavac-Opolo). However, later the interest falls down, and Opolo is not bottled for a long time on the organized market. This wine is more and more replaced by wines produced by procedure similar to production of rose wines (Šibenski rose, Zlatan rose, Benkovački rose etc), which are still different from the production of the traditional Dalmatian Opolo wines. Lately, some producers included Opolo into their wine-cellar production program (Bol, Primošten, Bastijana from Jelsa island and others), which gives hope that, in our wine offer, Opolo wine will again take the place which by tradition belongs to it.
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Marin Rendic Talent & Passion ...ili: kako su talent, strast, kreativnost i prvenstveno ljubav prema kuhanju poveli restoran Pepenero prema Michelinovim zvjezdicama ... how talent, passion, creativity and, above all - love for cooking, led Pepenero restaurant to the Michelin Stars rating
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ledajući reportažu s jednog kulinarskog događaja u Istri, nismo mogli ne zamijetiti svježinu i inovativnost kojom je zračila pojava Marina Rendića, mladog Karlovčanina sa novigradskom adresom, dok je s preciznošću znanstvenika i kreativnošću umjetnika pripremao poširana jaja s divljom istarskom šparogom. Njegovo istinsko uživanje u pripremi hrane rezultira istinskim uživanjem gostiju restorana Pepenero, smještenog u ekskluzivnom novigradskom hotelu Cittar, za koji se usmenom predajom širi priča da vrijedi preći i 400 km da bi se svratilo i uživalo u Marinovim jelima. Gostima pruža originalnost spajanjem najboljeg iz tradicionalne istarske kuhinje s modernim i elegantnim kuhanjem, pri čemu se služi i trendovskim tehnološkim postupcima, poput
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korištenja tekućeg dušika. Pripremajući jela od tradicionalnih istarskih namirnica, ali na posve nov način, Rendić se između ostalog koristi tzv. molekularnom gastronomijom , koja uz uobičajene tehnike pripreme hrane koristi i laboratorijske kemijske i fizikalne metode, pri čemu se dobivaju jela potpuno novih osobina, s iznenađujućim kombinacijama aroma, mirisa i tekstura. Jedan od najperspektivnijih mladih kuhara Hrvatske, otvorivši ovaj restoran, radom i kvalitetom zagazio je daleko prema Michelinovim zvjezdicama. Ime restorana (crni papar) je zajednički izbor supružnika Rendić, čime su naglasili svoju ljubav prema crnoj boji te začinima, a osim raznih vrsta papra, raznolikost njihove kuhinje naglašena je i korištenjem čak 12 vrsta soli. Vrstu, količinu i tajming stavljanja začina u jelo smatraju iznimno važnim momentom u kuhanju. Marinova najvažnija stavka jeste da namirnica mora biti svježa. ‘’Obožavam sve što dođe svježe ulovljeno iz mora: ribe, školjke, sipu, hobotnicu... zatim svježe povrće, voće i začinsko bilje, gdje kao favorita ističem domaći bosiljak’, kaže Rendić. Rezultat svega toga su nezaboravni, snažni i zamamni okusi, a potencijal je prepoznat i od strane Jeunes Restaurateurs
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hile we were watching TV report from the culinary competition event in Istria, it was inevitably to notice the freshness and innovation which radiated from Marin Rendic, a young chef born in Karlovac, resident at his Novigrad’s address, during his preparation of poached eggs with wild Istrian asparagus as he did it with the precision of scientists and creativity of artists. His true enjoyment in food preparation results with a true pleasure of Pepenero’s guests. The restaurant is located in the exclusive Hotel Novigrad Cittar, and the whisper spreads from mouth to mouth that it is not hard to cross more than 400 km to come by and enjoy in food prepared by Marin. He offers to his guests an original approach by merging the best of traditional Istrian cuisine with a modern and elegant cooking, where he
serves meals prepared using trendy technological procedures, such as freezing by liquid nitrogen. While he is preparing traditional Istrian dishes, but on an entirely new way, Rendić among other uses so called molecular gastronomy, which among the usual techniques of food preparation includes chemical and physical laboratory methods, where a meal gets completely new features, with surprising combinations of flavors, fragrances and textures. One of the most promising young Croatian chefs, after opening this restaurant, has stepped away close to Michelin stars with quality of his work. Name of the restaurant (black pepper) is a common choice of the Rendić spouses, and emphasizes their love for black colour and spices, and beside different kinds of pepper, the variety of their cuisine is highlighted by using as many as 12 kinds of salt. They consider that type, amount and timing of putting spices in the dish are extremely important elements in cooking. Marin’s most important item is the pure freshness of the food. ‘’I love everything that comes freshly caught from the sea: fish, shellfish, cuttlefish, octopus ... then fresh vegetables, fruits and herbs, where I underline domestic basil as my favorite”, said Rendić. The result is unforgettable, powerful and tempting taste and potential which were recognized by the Jeunes
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d’Europe, koji su uvrstili restoran Pepenero u svoju udrugu, što je prvi korak u dobivanju Michellinove zvjezdice. Ovaj tridesettrogodišnjak u svojoj dosadašnjoj, već iznimnoj karijeri može reći da je kuhao Angelini Jolie 2007. godine za vrijeme predstavljanja hrvatske nacionalne kuhinje u restoranu zgrade UN-a u New Yorku, ali ono što njega više raduje su prestižna priznanja i nagrade, kojima je njegov restoran uvršten među top-restorane u Hrvatskoj, a on među 5 najtalentiranijih kuhara Hrvatske. Među najdražim priznanjima nabraja svakako Jeunes Restaurateurs D’ Europe, 14 bodova u austrijskom vodiču Galt Millau, Najbolji novi restaurant 2009-TIME OUT, najveće priznanje Saveza kuhara mediteranskih i europskih regija - Majstor kuhar 1. reda, zatim 4 zvjezdice M Davora Butkovića u Jutarnjem listu, TOP Dav 2009 i TOP 2010 Istra Gourmet.,2011 Guida l’espresso. l’esp A kako ka tu njegov put prema izvrsnosti ne namjerava stati, tako se sada nalazi na stažiranju mjer jer u restoranu ARZAK,-3 MICHELLIN STAR r i osmom najboljem restoranu na svijetu smjeosm štenom u najjačoj regiji s najviše Michelinovih šten restorana na svijetu- San Sebastian u Španjolresto sto skoj, skoj a nakon toga ga čeka stažiranje u restoranu broj jedan na svijetu: NOMA u Copenhagenu. hage Tako Marin Rendić nastavlja svojim iznimnim radom rado i kvalitetom promovirati kulinarstvo, ugostiteljstvo i turizam Istre i Hrvatske. ugos
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restaurateurs d’Europe by including a restaurant Pepenero in their association as the first step in getting a Michelin star. This 30-year-old man can tell about his previous, already remarkable career, that he cooked for Angelina Jolie in 2007 during the presentation of Croatian national cuisine in the restaurant of the UN building in New York, but what pleased him more are the prestigious awards and prizes, where his restaurant was listed among top restaurants in Croatia, and he was chosen among top 5 most talented Croatian chefs. Among the favorite awards certainly are Jeunes restaurateurs D ‘Europe, 14 points in the Austrian Galt Millau guide, Best New Restaurant 2009-TIME OUT, the highest recognition from Chef Union of Mediterranean and Europian regions – First Order Master Chef, then 4 stars from Davor Butkovic in Jutarnji list, TOP 2009 and TOP 2010 Istra Gourmet, 2011 Guida L’Espresso. As Marin’s way to excellence does not intend to stop, he is now on an internship at a restaurant Arzak, -3 Michelin Star restaurant, and among eighth best restaurants in the world, located in the strongest region with the most Michelin restaurant in the world-San Sebastian in Spain, and thereafter, an internship at the restaurant of one of the world: NOMA in Copenhagen is waiting for him. That is the way how Marin Rendić continues his exceptional work and promotes quality cuisine, gastronomy and tourism of Istria and Croatia.
Četiri poznata i ugledna istarska restorana ušlo je u prestižnu europsku udrugu mladih kuhara Jeunes Restaurateurs d’Europe (JRE), koja je prvi korak za dobivanje Michelinove zvjezdice. Ostvarili su to restorani San Rocco iz Brtonigle, Damir&Ornela, Pepenero iz Novigrada, te Monte iz Rovinja. Ovi su restorani postali članovi asocijacije koja okuplja 350 ugostitelja iz deset zemalja i promiče poštivanje tradicije te kreativnost i inovativnost kod mladih kuhara pod motom talent&passion. Pročelnik županijskog odjela za turizam Denis Ivošević, koji je ujedno inicirao uključenje u ovu udrugu prije dvije i pol godine, smatra da je Hrvatska pri učlanjenju (zasluženo) dobila presedan jer je jedina članica koja je ušla u ovu asocijaciju a nije iz Europske unije, što je jedan od uvjeta za učlanjenje. ‘’Da bismo došli u poziciju da skupština JREa o nama raspravlja, trebali su nas predložiti članovi iz dviju drugih zemalja. Isto tako, da bi neki restoran postao članom JREa, potrebno je da je da bude uvršten u najmanje tri međunarodna i domaća gourmet vodiča, vlasnici ne smiju imati manje od 23 ili više od 37 godina i moraju promicati moto udruge talent&passion. Nas su predložili Slovenija i Italija koje su za nas i lobirale u posljednjih godinu i pol dana. Za njih je bilo bitno da uđemo u udrugu jer praktički nakon Udina i Vipave u Sloveniji završava ciklus restorana koji su članovi JREa, a i njima je interesu da se ono produži na Istru gdje već poznaju odabrane restorane”, kaže Ivošević. Tijekom 2010 i 2011 godine, pet će istarskih restorana udruženo, na čelu s Teom Fernetichem iz San Rocca, kojeg je na to mjesto predložila skupština JREa, sudjelovati na seminarima i radionicama i surađivati s ostalim restoranima članicama udruge iz drugih zemlja.Također će biti uvršteni u vodiče nacionalnih ogranaka JREa.
Four renowned Istrian restaurant have entered in the prestigious European association of young chefs Jeunes restaurateurs d’Europe (JRE), which is the first step to getting a Michelin star: restaurants San Rocco from Brtonigla, Damir & Ornela, Pepenero from Novigrad and Monte from Rovinj. These restaurants have become members of the association which brings together 350 restaurateurs from ten countries and promotes respect for tradition and creativity and innovation among young chefs under the motto ‘talent & passion’. Head of the County Tourism Department Denis Ivošević, who also initiated the inclusion in this association two and a half years ago, believes that Croatia, by joining the assotiation (deservedly), won a precedent because it is the only member that has entered into this association and is not from the European Union, which is one of the conditions for the membership. ‘’To come into a position that the JRE Assembly debates about us, we need to have a proposition from two members of other countries. Also, to became a JRE member, it is necessary to be included in at least three international and domestic gourmet guide, owners should not be less than 23 or more than 37 years old and must promote the motto ‘talent & passion’. We were suggested by Italy and Slovenia, they lobbied for us in the past year and a half ago. It was important for them that we enter into the association, because practically the Slovenian Udine and Vipava end the cycle of restaurants that are JRE members, and their interest is to extend it to Istria, where they already know these selected restaurants”, said Ivošević. During 2010 and 2011, five Istrian restaurants will jointly participate in seminars and workshops and collaborate with other members of the association of restaurants other countries, led by Teo Fernetich from San Rocco restaurant, who was proposed as a leader by JRE Assembly. They will also be included in the guides of national JRE branches.
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Varenik V
arenik, ili mast od mošta, usputni se proizvodi pri izradi vina. Recept za pripravu varenika je jednostavan i star je tisućama godina. Izdvoji se mošt od crnog grožđa prije početka fermentacije i kuha dosta dugo, na laganoj vatri, pazeći da ne ‘prostruji’, kako kažu Bračani. Ako je grožđe dobro, gradacije 19, kuha se dok se tekućina ne smanji na pola, a ako je lošije, gradacije 14, kuha se dok se ne smanji na trećinu. Krajnji rezultat je gusta, tamno smeđa tekućina, koja se ohlađena sprema u boce i čuva za korištenje tijekom cijele godine. I to je to, produkt grožđa, bez ikakvih dodataka. Čudesna prilagodljivost ovog ‘začina’ je u tome što podjednako oplemenjuje okus i slanih i slatkih jela. Kada se dodaju jedna do dvije žlice varenika u jela od mesa, pogotovo u umake, oni dobivaju posebno
Iako je od davnina poznat na Mediteranu, ovaj bezalkoholni dodatak jelima skoro je pao u zaborav, međutim zahvaljujući supetarskom Festivalu grožđa i vina, na kojem se posebna pažnja pridaje jelima s varenikom, ponovo su otkrivena njegova čudotvorna svojstva. bogatstvo i punoću okusa. S druge strane, dodatak u kolač dovodi do prekrasne harmonije okusa, a varenik u potpunosti može zamijeniti bijeli, konzumni šećer, kao znatno zdravija opcija. Tradicija kuhanja varenika prisutna je ‘u tragovima’ još na Braču, Korčuli, Pelješcu, Visu, u Makarskoj i u Skradinu. Turistička zajednica grada Supetra je prva počela poticati obnovu ove tradicije, s ciljem da se očuva priprava varenika i starih, tradicionalnih jela dalmatinskog kraja, poput ‘šugoli de mošto’, ‘pelješačkog čuktera’ ili ‘korčulanske lumblije’. Varenik je sastavni dio svih tih starih, zaboravljenih jela, a nije ga se slučajno dodavalo u brojna jela - oduvijek se znalo za njegovu hranjivost i ljekovitost. Koristili su ga još i stari Rimljani, pogotovo prije velikih napora poput marševa i bojeva. Naše bake su ga dodavale djeci u ‘zavajon’ – tučeno jaje, čime su im osiguravale dnevnu unos energije i brojnih vitamina. Davao se i mladencima uoči prve bračne noći, pogotovo mladoženji, ‘da ga ne izda snaga tijekom cijele noći’. I na kraju, ali ne manje važno, jela s varenikom se mogu jako zanimljivo kombinirati i s bijelim i s crnim vinima, što je razumljivo ako se
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Zaboravljena delicija puna zdravlja i energije Forgotten dainty full of health and energy
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arenik, or grease of must, is by-product during production of wine. The recipe for varenik preparation is simple and thousands of years old. Before starting of fermentation the must of black grapes is separated and cooked rather long on medium heat, paying attention that it does not “stream”, as the Brač people say. If the grapes are good, grade 19, it is cooked until the liquid is reduced to half, and if of lower quality, grade 14, it is cooked to reduction of one third. The final result is a very thick, dark brown liquid, which, when cooled, is put into bottles and kept for use during the whole year. And that’s it, product of grapes, without any additions. The magic adaptability of this “spice” is in fact that it equally improves the taste of salt meals as well as the sweet meals. When one or two spoons of varenik are added to meat meals, especially into sauces, they acquire special richness and fullness of taste. On the other hand, the addition to a cake leads to wonderful harmony of taste. Varenik can completely replace white consume sugar as a significantly healthier option. Tradition of cooking with varenik is also present “in traces” on islands Brac, Korcula, Peljesac, Vis, in Makarska and in Skradin. Tourist community of the Supetar town was the first one to enhance renewal of this tradition with a goal to preserve preparation of varenik and old, traditional meals of Dalmatian region, like “šugoli de mošto”, “čukter of Peljesac” or “lumblia of Korcula”. Varenik is an integral part of all those old, forgotten meals; and it was not being added into numerous meals by chance - it was known of old for its nutritious and curative properties. Even ancient Romans were using it, especially before great efforts as were marches and wars. Our grandmothers used to give it to children in “zavayon” - bitten egg, thus assuring daily portion of energy and numerous vitamins for them. It was also given to newly married couples before the first matrimonial night, especially to the bridegroom so that “energy does not betray him during the whole night”. And the last, but not the least important thing is that meals with varenik can be particularly combined either with white or red wines, which is understandable as it is compatible with various culinary combinations. Which wine goes with what meal, we will leave to you to decide upon, while visiting one of these places in Dalmatia, which still cherish their culinary authenticity. Varenik has not yet arrived on the shelves of the markets, and you can not find much of it in the world. Let us hope that
tako dobro uklapa u raznovrsne kulinarske kombinacije. Koje vino ide najbolje uz koje jelo, ostavit ćemo da prosudite sami, prilikom posjete nekom od ovih dalmatinskih mjesta koja još čuvaju kulinarsku autohtonost. Varenik još uvijek nije dospio na police trgovina, a nema ga mnogo ni u svijetu. Nadajmo se da će ovaj vitaminsko-energetski napitak uskoro zaživjeti na našem i inozemnom tržištu, kao delicija dalmatinskog kraja po kojoj također, među mnogim ostalima, možemo graditi svoju prepoznatljivost. Romantična ljubav Hrvatice i Francuza u tajnom receptu ‘Lumblije’ Lumblija je kolač s maslinovim uljem i varenikom, koji se peče samo u Blatu na Korčuli i Veloj Luci. Korčulanski recept je star oko 200 godina, a priča kaže da se između Napoleonovog vojnika – pekara i mlade djevojke iz Blata rodila ljubav. Odlazeći zajedno sa svojom vojskom iz Blata, mladi Francuz poklanja djevojci kolač uz riječi ‘ne m’oublies pas’, što znači ‘ne zaboravi me’, a djevojka pamti izgovorene riječi kao ‘lumblija’ i veže ih uz kolač i svoju uspomenu. Sastojci 1 kg brašna 1 kvasac (25 gr) 150 gr šećera 100 gr badema 100 gr suhih grožđica 100 gr maslinovog ulja 100 gr varenika 50 gr lozovače cimet, muškatni oraščić, vanilija, klinčić, aniš, korica limuna, sol vode po potrebi
Although it is well known since old times in Mediterranean region, this non-alcoholic addition to meals has almost fell into oblivion. However, thanks to Grape and Wine Festival in the town of Supetar, where special attention is paid to meals with varenik, its magic properties are rediscovered. this drink full of vitamins and energy shall soon find its place on the foreign markets, as a dainty of the Dalmatian region, by which also, among many other things, we can build our recognition. Romantic love between a Croatian girl and a French boy in the secret recipe “Lumblia” Lumblia is a cake with olive oil and varenik, which is backed only in place Blato on island Korcula and in place Vela Luka. This Korcula recipe is about 200 years old, and a story goes that a love story was born between a Napoleon’s cook and a young girl from Blato. When leaving Blato with the army, the young French boy gives a cake to the girl saying “ne m’oublie pas”, which means “don’t forget me” and the girl remembers the words as “lumblia” and relates them to the cake and her souvenir. Ingredients 1 kg flower 1 leaven (25 g) 150 g sugar 100 g almond 100 g raisins 100 g olive oil 100 g varenik 50 g brandy cinnamon, Muscat nut, vanilla, clove, fennel, lemon skin, salt water as necessary
PRIPREMA
PREPARATION
1. Umiješati kvasac, žličicu šećera, žličicu brašna i mlake vode. Ostaviti na toplom mjestu da nabubri.
1. Mix leaven, small spoon of sugar, small spoon of flower and lukewarm water. Leave at warm place to rise.
2. Grožđice oprati i namočiti u lozovaču. Bademe lagano prepržiti na tavi bez ulja (paziti da ne zagori!) i samljeti na krupno.
2. Wash raisins and soak into brandy. Fry almonds slightly without oil (pay attention not to burn them!) and grind to larger pieces.
3. U veliku posudu staviti prosijano brašno, šećer, vaniliju, te cimet, klinčiće, muškatni oraščić, aniš (samljevene i količina po želji) te koricu limuna i sol.
3. In a large bowl put sieved flower, sugar, vanilla and cinnamon, clove, Muscat nut, kennel (ground and in desired quantity) and lemon skin and salt.
4. Dodati grožđice s rakijom, bademe, te maslinovo ulje i kvasac, pa umijesiti srednje tvrdo tijesto dodajući varenik i mlaku vodu. 5. Pustiti tijesto na toplome sat, dva da se digne. 6. Premijesiti i podijeliti na pet dijelova. Oblikovati male okrugle kruščiće i staviti da se peku u ugrijanu pećnicu na 170 stupnjeva, oko 40 do 50 minuta. 7. Kad je tijesto malo ohladi, ali je još uvijek toplo, premazati ga varenikom i posuti šećerom. Najbolje jesti sljedeći dan. Kažu da je tajna uspješne lumblije u omjeru aroma cimeta, muškatnog oraščića, vanilije, klinčića, aniša i limuna. Ne smije se staviti ni previše ni premalo, a da li je omjer pogođen, zna se tek kada se ohlađeni kolač kuša.
4. Add raisins with brandy, almond and olive oil and leaven and make medium hard dough adding varenik and lukewarm water. 5. Leave dough in a warm place for one, two hours to rise. 6. Knead it again and divide into five pieces. Form small round loaves and put them into heated oven to bake on 170 grades C for 40 to 50 minutes. 7. When the cake is cooler but still warm, lay it with varenik and bespatter with sugar. It is best to eat it next day. It is said that the secret of a successful lumbia is in the right proportion of aromas of cinnamon, Muscat nut, vanilla, clove, kennel and lemon. There shouldn’t be too much, nor too little, and whether the proportions were correct it can be known when the cooled cake is tasted.
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Kad nestane pčela, nestat će i čovjeka
If honey bees are gone, mankind is gone POVIJEST Ivan Bračić, osnivač tvrtke PIP potječe iz pčelarske obitelji koja se pčelarstvom bavi još od 1930. godine, a sam osnivač od 1980. Svoju hobističku ljubav prema pčelama utkao je u PIP koji je osnovao krajem 1989. godine. Prvi su u regiji počeli, 94. godine, proizvodnju meda u vrećici za širu primjenu u ugostiteljstvu. 1999. godine pokreću proizvodnju proizvoda iz programa apiterapija, tehnološka prekretnica u razvoju tvrtke. U 2003. godini, nakon višegodišnjeg razvoja, pokrenuli su proizvodnju likera na bazi meda. 2008. u poslovnoj zoni Pisarovina, na kupljenom zemljištu, počinje projektiranje i ishođenje svih suglasnosti za gradnju novog modernog i funkcionalnog poslovno proizvodnog objekta naziva „Kuća meda“. Očekuju početak gradnje.
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U BIH-u od 2001., a u Srbiji od 2009. godine registrirane su i djeluju tvrtke kćeri, PIP-BH d.o.o. i PIP-APILAND d.o.o. U proteklih 20 godina PIP je u stalnom rastu i razvoju, danas grupa PIP zapošljava 72 djelatnika, od toga 20-tak visokoobrazovanih. PROIZVODI PIP proizvodi i nudi sve za pčelarstvo, literaturu, opremu, alate, hranu i lijekove za pčele. PIP-ova ponuda poznata je po širokoj paleti sorti i pakovina meda, konzumnog i meda za ugostiteljstvo. U 2009. godini razvili su novu robnu marku meda, „Zlatnu liniju meda“, posebno dizajniranu (premium). Poznate su i različite ekstenzije, med s dodacima (sa sokom limuna, brusnice, višnje, s lješnjacima i drugi). Coffeemed- medno sladilo za kavu, novi je proizvod, rezultat višegodišnjeg rada. Likeri na bazi meda (Sv. Ambrozije, Medona i Pater-stara medica) ponos su PIP-ove proizvodnje. Proizvodi programa Apiterapija rapija (za poboljšanje p zdravlja d lj ljudi) lj di) kruna k su strpljivog t pljivog lji rada d i rrazvoja j temeljenog na znanju, ostvarenog renog u vlastitom laznanjima boratoriju i pogonu, bitno potpomognuti otpomo hrvatskih znanstvenika i stručnjaka. čnjaka sastava, bez dodanih Svi proizvodi su prirodnogg sastav šećera, konzervansa i sličnih ih tvari. tvar
HISTORY Ivan Bracic, founder of PIP comes from apiarist family which is in bee-keeping business since 1930, and the founder himself since 1980. His hobbyist’s love towards bees has weaved in PIP which he established by the end of 1989. In 1994, as the first in region, they started production of honey packed in plastic containers for wider use in catering. In 1999 they started the production of products from apitherapy program, technological milestone in company development. In year 2003, after perennial development, they started the production of honey based liquors. 2008, in business area of Pisarovina, on purchased land, begins planning and gaining all licenses for constructing new modern and functional business productive project called “Kuca meda” (House of honey). They are expecting start of construction works. . From 2001 in Bosnia and Herzegovina, and as of 2009 in Serbia, company daughters PIP-BH d.o.o. and PIP-APILAND d.o.o. are registered and active. In the past twenty years PIP is in constant grow and development and today the group employs 72 employers, of which is about 20 highly educa at cated. PRODUCTS PR P PIP produces and offers everything for apiculture: P li te literature, equipment, tools, food and medicaments fo or bees. for PIP P PIP’s offer is well known for its wide palette of honeyy sorts and packages, honey for consumption and fo or catering. for In n 2009 they developed a new honey brand, “Golden n honey line”, especially designed (premium). Th T There are other well-known different extensions, h o honey with additions (with citrus juice, cowberry, so ou cherry, with hazelnuts and other). sour C Co Coffeemed – honey sweetener for coffee, it’s a new product, the result of perennial work. n Ho H Honey based liquors (Sv. Ambrozije, Medona an n Pater-stara medica) are pride of PIP’s proand du d duction. Pro P Products from Apitherapy (for health improveme m ment) are the crown of patient work and developme m ment based on knowledge, accomplished in own la ab laboratory and facility, significantly supported by kknowledge n of Croatian scientists and experts. All products are made from natural ingredients, A wit w without added sugar, preservatives and similar su ub substances. M MARKETING MA Marketing approach is implemented in PIP’s busiMa M nes n ness from long ago. Backbone of marketing is deve el velopment and education of its own sales staff, ed du education of sales staff in “extended sale”, and
PIP d.o.o. Bijenik 158 HR 10000 Zagreb www.pip.hr e-mail:pip@pip.hr Telefon: +385 (0)1 37 38 492 Telefaks: +385 (0)1 37 38 073 73
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MARKETING U PIP-u su odavno primijenili marketinški pristup u poslovanju. Okosnicu marketinga čini razvoj i edukacija vlastitog prodajnog osoblja, edukacija prodajnog osoblja u „produženoj prodaji“, te jako bitno edukacija korisnika i konzumenata njihovih proizvoda. To rade na dobro organiziranim predavanjima ciljnim skupinama (farmaceutima, pčelarima, trgovcima, konzumentima), u stručnim časopisima, obrazovnim i popularnim emisijama na radiju i televiziji. Promociju proizvoda obavljaju često, i to uglavnom u prodajnom prostoru kupca (ljekarne, prodavaonice i ugostiteljski objekti) u izravnom kontaktu sa postojećim i potencijalnim krajnjim kupcima ili konzumentima. Proizvodi robne marke PIP mogu se vidjeti na najzahtjevnijim mjestima prodaje i potrošnje kao što su: bolnice, vrtići, vojska, ljekarne, drogerije, „obiteljske ljekarne“, veterinarske ljekarne, poljoapoteke, trgovine, ugostiteljski objekti, hoteli, farmaceutska i konditorska industrija i drugdje. Oko 30% proizvodnje izvozi se na strana tržišta, u okruženju, te na zahtjevno europsko tržište. AKADEMIJA MEDA Akademija meda je, za sada, virtualni projekt sa ciljem da preraste u ozbiljnije forme. Cjeloživotno obrazovanje je nužnost i realnost, to je područje projekta Akademije meda. Obrazovanje svih u lancu, od primarne proizvodnje do konzumenta. Važna je spoznaja opstanka pčela, još je Einstein rekao: kad nestane pčela nestat će i čovjeka. Praksa i znanost potvrđuju doprinos pčelinjih proizvoda zdravlju čovjeka. RAZVOJ Stalnim razvojem proizvoda, u tvrtki PIP, uspijevaju pčelinje proizvode (med, propolis, matična
PIP d.o.o. Bijenik 158 HR 10000 Zagreb www.pip.hr e-mail:pip@pip.hr Telefon: +385 (0)1 37 38 492 Telefaks: +385 (0)1 37 38 073 +3
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very important, education of customers and consumers of their products. They do it in well organized presentations aimed at targeted groups (pharmacists, apiarists, tradesmen, consumers), in expert magazines, educational and popular TV and radio broadcasts. Promotion of products is done frequently, mostly in buyer’s points of sale (drugstores, shops, and catering facilities) in direct contact with extant and potential final buyers or consumers. PIP brand products can be seen in most demanding points of sale and consumption like hospitals, kindergartens, army, apothecaries, drugstores, “family apothecaries”, veterinary drugstores, agro-drugstores, catering projects, hotels, pharmacy and conditory industry and other. Around 30% of products are exported to foreign markets, in nearby surroundings and in demanding European market. HONEY ACADEMY Honey Academy is, for now, a virtual project with a goal to grow in more serious forms. Lifelong education is necessity and reality, and that is the project field of Honey Academy, education of everyone in the chain, from primary production to consumer. Deep knowledge of bees’ survival is important, like Einstein said long ago: if honey bees are gone, mankind is gone. Practice and science are confirming benefits of bee products on human health. DEVELOPMENT By continuous product development in company PIP they manage to adjust bee products (honey, propolis, royal jelly, pollen and other) to practical use with a view to improve human health (honey in plastic containers, honey with lemon juice in
mliječ, pelud i dr.), s ciljem poboljšanja zdravlja čovjeka, prilagoditi praktičnoj uporabi (med u vrećici, med sa sokom limuna u vrećici, proizvodi u pastilama, kapima, spreju i dr.) i zamjeni za proizvode ili sastavnice u proizvodima niže uporabne vrijednosti (šećer, umjetna sladila, bojila, arome, konzervansi i sl.). Konkretni primjeri: 1.) Niste mogli popiti u kafiću čaj s medom, od 1994. možete, zahvaljujući PIP-u. 2.) Higijenski je neprimjereno servirati krišku limuna uz čaj, u PIP-u nude med sa sokom limuna. 3.) Šećer treba izbjegavati gdje god se može, u PIPu nude Coffeemed-medno sladilo za kavu (posve prirodan proizvod) koje iznenađuje novim osjećajem dodane vrijednosti kavi, ne mijenjajući kavoljupcima harmoniju njena okusa, ali vrlo suptilno sljubljuje ukupne okuse u kavi. Likeri, u tri različita okusa, nemaju u sastavu dodani šećer, konzervanse i druge nepoželjne tvari. KVALITETA Oduvijek su veliku Pozornost davali kvaliteti svojih proizvoda, svi nose oznaku Hrvatska kvaliteta. Međunarodni certifikati ISO 9001 i ISO 22000 (HACCP) stvaraju preduvjete visoke kvalitete. Mnogobrojna domaća i međunarodna priznanja to potvrđuju.
plastic containers, pastille, drops and spray products, etc) and product supplements or integral elements in lower use value products (sugar, artificial sweeteners, dyestuffs, flavors, preservatives and similar). Concrete examples: 1.) You couldn’t drink tea with honey in coffee bar, from 1994 you can, thanks to PIP. 2.) It is hygienic unsuitable to serve slice of lemon with tea, in PIP they offer honey with lemon juice. 3.) Sugar should be avoided whenever possible, in PIP they offer Coffeemed honey sweetener for coffee (completely natural product) which surprises with its new feeling of additional value to coffee, without changing harmony of its taste to coffeelovers, but very subtly joins overall flavors in coffee. Liquors, in three different flavors, are without added sugar, preservatives or other undesirable substances. QUALITY In PIP they have always paid great attention to their products quality; they are all labeled with “Hrvatska Kvaliteta” (Croatian Quality). International certificates ISO 9001 and ISO 22000 (HACCP) are creating high quality prerequisites. Numerous domestic and international recognitions confirm that.
www.vinoteka.in
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Agro Ilok Vina koja se pamte Wines which can’t be forgotten V inorodni položaji smješteni na najboljim lokalitetima Srijemskog vinogorja, točnije na zapadnim obroncima Fruške Gore gdje grožđe uživa blagodati tople klime, te spoj tisućljećima građene tradicije, čovjeka i tehnologije, stvorili su uvjete dostojne vrhunskog vina. Nadalje, idealna pedo-klimatska harmonija, izuzetno pogodna za uzgoj vinove loze, refleksija Dunava, kao i ljudski rad, trud i znanje, pridonose činjenici da su vina „Mali Podrumi Ilok“ danas neizostavni asortiman brojnih trgovačkih i ugostiteljskih objekata, te vina koja kontinuirano traže ljubitelji vrlo istančanog nepca.
Osnova za proizvodnju je podrum kapaciteta milijun litara vina, 125 ha vlastitih površina vinograda, te 400 ha u kooperaciji sa već odavno tržišno potvrđenim sortimentom kao što su; Traminac, Graševina, Rajnski Rizling, Chardonnay, Frankovka, te Cabernet Sauvignon s posebnim naglaskom na izuzetne kasne berbe graševine i traminca koje su ujedno i vrhunac proizvodnje ove tvrtke. Zahvaljujući znatnim investicijama, te angažmanu i stručnosti svog tima ljudi „Mali podrumi Ilok“ svake godine iznova potvrđuju svoju postojanost i kvalitetu što dokazuju brojne medalje i priznanja na raznim vinskim sajmovima i izložbama, a to je ujedno i apsolutna potvrda sposbnosti enologa navedene tvrtke. „Agro Ilok d.d.“ je respektabilna, cijenjena i opće prihvaćena vinarija, koja zahvaljujući upravo lojalnosti svojih konzumenata zasigurno neće stati na spomenutim dostignućima.
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ine-rich locations are placed at best localities of Srijem vineyards, more precisely, on Fruška Gora west slopes where grapes enjoys the benefits of warm climate and combination of thousand years built tradition, man and technology, made the conditions worthy of premium wine. Moreover, an ideal pedo-climate harmony, very favourable for planting grapevine, Danube reflection, as well as human work and knowledge, contribute to the fact that today “Mali Podrumi Ilok” wines are unavoidable assortment of many trade and gastronomy facilities, and wines that is continuously sought after by wine lovers with aesthetic taste. Base for production is the cellar with million litres wine capacity, 125 hectares of their own vineyard surfaces, and 400 hectares in cooperation with, on market already certified, assortment like; Traminac, Graševina, Rajnski Rizling, Chardonnay, Frankovka, as well as Cabernet Sauvignon, with special accent to extraordinary late vintages of Graševina and Traminac, which are also the very best of this company production. Thanks to significant investments and its team expertise and efforts, Mali podrumi Ilok” confirm each year over again its stability and quality which is proved by numerous medals and awards on various wine fairs and exhibits, and that is withal an absolute confirmation of this company’s enologist’s competence. „Agro Ilok d.d.“ is respectable, recognized and generally accepted winery which surely won’t stop at mentioned accomplishments thanks to its consumers’ loyalty.
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Special wines Specijalna vina
Sherry S
Piše: / Written by Zvonimir Štimac
igurno se to i Vama dogodilo: poželjeli ste bijeli porto ili suhi sherry za aperitiv, a konobar Vam je rekao da porta nažalost nema i poslužio je cherry brandy. U ugostiteljskim školama se, na žalost, predaje premalo o vinima, pa nije čudo da se takve stvari dešavaju. U specijalna vina, pod čudnim nazivom likerska vina, ubrajamo Port, Sherry, Madeiru i druge. Sherry i Port polako osvajaju i naše tržište, a Madeira se upotrebljava većinom u kuhinji. Sherry vina su nastala početkom 19 stoljeća, kada Englezi zbog ratova i blokada nisu mogli uvesti tražene količine vina iz Francuske, pa su uvozili vina iz Španjolske. Transport jedrenjacima bio je dugotrajan i vino se kvarilo, pa se tražilo rješenje kako da se vino bolje stabilizira. Negdje oko 1800. godine netko je došao na ideju mirno vino pomješati sa vinjakom i tako ga stabilizirati. S vremenom su se razvile tri meto-
I
t surely happened to you too: you wished for white Porto or dry Sherry as an appetizer, and waiter told you they unfortunately ran of out Porto and served you Sherry brandy. Unfortunately, in catering schools little is lectured about wines, so it is no wonder these things happen. Special wines, under the strange name of liquor wines, include Port, Sherry, Madeira and others. Sherry and Port are slowly conquering our market as well, and Madeira is mostly used in cuisine. Sherry wines came into existence in early nineteen century, when due to wars and blockages British could not import required quantities of wine from France, so they imported it from Spain. Transport by sailing-ships was long and wine used to rot, so people were looking for solution for better wine stabilization. Somewhere around year 1800 someone came to an idea to mix still wine with brandy and stabilize it that way. In time, three methods and three different wines emerged. Sherry is produced in triangle region of Jerez de la Frontera, San Lucar de Barrameda and Puerto de Santa Maria, solely from Palomino no
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www.b-vama.com
SATOVI CORUM Ekskluzivan urarski brand CORUM, čija se ponuda sastoji od visokokvalitetnih satova inovativnog i karakterističnog dizajna, opremljenih sofisticiranim mehanizmom, povećao je proizvodnju limitarnog izdanja Grand Prix Corum 2010 satova. Ovaj se model prvotno izrađivao samo u 25 komada i to isključivo za švicarsko tržište, da bi uslijed velikog zanimanja i zahtjeva inozemnog tržišta, Corum povećao proizvodnju na 100 komada. Svaki sat ovog luksuznog branda podvrgnut je rigoroznim kontrolama kvalitete po najvećim standardima švicarske industrije satova, dok je raspon modela raspoređen u četiri osnovne linije - Admiral's Cup, Romvlvs, Corum Bridges i Artisans. Admiral Cup-ovi satovi prezentiraju drugu generaciju dizajna ovog modela koji je lansiran 1983. godine. Sat ima prepoznatljivo 12 stranično kućište koje je, kao i brojčanik ukrašeno mornaričkim oznakama umjesto brojevima. Blizak odnos između Admiral's Cup serije i jedriličarstva proizlazi iz sponzoriranja Mumm Admiral's Cup regate. Štoviše, samo ime kolekcije bilo je odobreno od strane Kraljveskog Ocean Racing kluba iz Londona, a serija Admiral's Cup modela dizajnirana u nekoliko varijanti.
BOL D’OR MIRABAUD presented by CORUM – LIMITED EDITION 35 PIECES
DUBINE MU NIŠTA NE MOGU TAG Heuer 500M Calibre 5 (43 mm) je posljednji dodatak kolekciji Aquaracer i predstavlja sportski sat namijenjen ekstremnim zahtjevima profi-ronjenja. Model odličnih performansi napravljen je da traje vječno, luksuzno je obrađen i predstavlja prestižni dizajnerski proizvod. Švicarci ističu da je najotporniji i najpouzdaniji sat svoje generacije, ali ujedno i profinjen jer se može rabiti za svaku prigodu i situaciju. Aquaracer 500M radi na dubinama do 500 metara, a jednosmjerni okretni prsten mu je važan sigurnosni faktor. Na kućištu od brušenog čelika promjera 43 mm je 6 gumba za lakše rukovanje u ronilačkim rukavicama, s time da na obojenoj kruni dvostruka brtva štiti od ulaska prašine i vode. Luminiscentne oznake na kazaljkama i simbolima, te sekundna kazaljka s narančastim vrhom, olakšavaju očitavanje vremena u tami ili pod vodom. Ima automatski ventil za ispuštanje helija što je namijenjeno profesionalnim roniocima koji dugo rade na velikim dubinama. Safirno staklo i poklopac otporni su na ogrebotine, a unutrašnjost kristalnog stakla je antirefleksijski obrađena. Sat ima TAG Heuer automatski 26-mm mehanizam Calibre 5 (ETA 2836-2), narukvicu (ili remen) s preklopnom sigurnosnom kopčom, kao i produžetak za nošenje preko ronilačkog odijela. Aquaracer se može kupiti u splitskim zlatarnicama B. Vama.
CALIBRE DE CARTIER Moderan i profinjen, Calibre de Cartier namijenjen je onima koji na ruci žele sat s karakterom i stilom, a imaju dovoljnu kunsku podlogu da ga sebi priušte. Iz Cartiera posebno ističu kako ga pokreće njihov prvi samostalno napravljeni samonavijajući mehanizam 1904MC. Osim vlastitog mehanizma, na njemu se mogu uočiti i ostale značajke satova ove tvrtke: rimski brojevi, crte za oznake satova na donjem dijelu, prepoznatljivo oblikovane Cartierove kazaljke, te Cotes de Geneve uzorak na rubovima brojčanika. Sami brojčanik je promjera 42 mm, a sat ima safirno staklo i nudi se u verziji čelika, kombinaciji čelika i zlata, ali i u čvrstoj izvedbi od ružičastog zlata. Calibre de Cartier vodootporan je do 30 metara dubine. U Splitu ga prodaje draguljarnica B. Vama.
de i tri različita vina. Sherry se proizvodi u trokutu Jerez de la Frontera, San Lucar de Barrameda i Puerto de Santa Maria, isključivo iz sorte Palomino Fino i Pedro-Ximenez i to na Solera načinu u kojem se sherry odgaja u tri reda bačava, s tim da u gornji red dolazi svježe vino koje se zatim pretače u srednji, a buteljira se iz donjeg reda. Ovisno o količeni Pedro-Ximenez mošta, Sherry je suh ( Fino i Amontillado), polusladak ( Oloroso ili Cream Sherry) i sladak (Raya). Iz položaja Carrascal potječe najfiniji, vrlo slatki Sherry Fino i Amontillado, koji se uživa se aperitiv ili uz jelo , a Oloroso kao digestiv, dok je Cream i Carrascal tipično desertno vino. Sherry se kao aperitiv služi volumena 1 dl, u posebnim čašama.
Fino and Pedro-Ximenez sorts, namely in Solera system by which Sherry is aging in three series of barrels, therewith new wine is put in the top one, and then it is poured in the next barrel down, and finally it is bottled in the end of the series. Depending on quantity of PedroXimenez must, Sherry is dry (Fino and Amontillado), lightly sweet, (Oloroso or Cream Sherry) and sweet (Raya). From the location of Carrascal originates the finest, very sweet Sherry Fino and Amontillado, which are consumed as appetizers or with meal, Oloroso which is consumed as a digestive, while Cream and Carrascal are typical dessert wines. As an appetizer, Sherry is served in 1 dl volume, in special wine glasses.
SHERRAY MANZANILLA
SHERRY MANZANILLA
Suhi i elegantni Sherry iz Sanlucar de Barrameda, malo slanast, sljubljuje se sa: škampima, kozicama, školjkama i bijelom ribom sa gradela, a kao apperitivo s prženim bademima i slanim kolačićima od lisnatog tijesta.
Dry and elegant Sherry from Sanlucar de Barrameda, somewhat salty, goes quite well with all sorts of fine main meals, and as an appetizer with fried almonds and salty cakes made from puffed pastry.
Služi se na temperaturi od 6 – 10º C.
It is best served at 6 – 10º C temperature.
SHERRY FINO
SHERRY FINO
U kalasičnom izdanju je suho, aromatičano vino boje jantara. Sljubljuje se s peradi u umaku s vrhnjem, Quiches (kolači na bazi vrhnja i jaja) i s ne previše aromatičnim tvrdim sirevima.
In its classic form it is dry, aromatic wine, amber in colour. It goes well with all sorts of meals especially with cream gravy, Quiches (eggs and cream based cookies), as well as not too aromatic hard cheeses.
SHERRY OLOROSO & CREAM
SHERRY OLOROSO & CREAM
Tipičan Sherry miris na flor (kvasac). Suhi se Oloroso sljubljuje s juhama i paštetama, a polusuha varijanta s kolačima i desertima.
Sherry has a typical flor yeast aroma. Dry Oloroso goes fine with soups and pates, while semidry version goes well with cakes and desserts.
Služi se na 14 – 15º C.
It is best served at 14 – 15º C temperature.
SHERRY PEDRO XIMENEZ I MOSKATEL
SHERRY PEDRO XIMENEZ I MOSCATEL
Slatki, topli i mekan, boje tamnog mahagonija. Sljubljuje se sa ČOKOLADOM, dakle desertima na bazi čokolade, kompotom od smokva i kolačima na bazi smokve, osim toga s tvrdim sirom (Parmezan, Comte, stari Gruyere).
It is sweet, warm and soft, dark mahogany in colour. It goes with CHOCOLATE, hence chocolate based desserts, fig compote and fig based cakes, and also with hard cheese (Parmesan, Comte, old Gruyere).
Služi se na 15 – 18º C.
It is best served at 15 – 18º C temperature.
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Igrano-dokumentarni film Miroslava Mirkovića
Putevima vina - hrvatska The paths of wine - Croatian O
vinu i vinogradarstvu u Hrvatskoj već se mnogo pisalo, ali hrvatski vinorodni krajevi, vinogradari i vinari zaslužuju mnogo više, i to ne samo radi isticanja posebnosti vinorodnih zona, vrijednosti i umijeća ljudi koji se bave vinarstvom, nego i strateškog promišljanja ove grane gospodarstva, koja Hrvatsku može dovesti na sam vrh proizvodnje vina u svijetu, naravno ne po količini već po kvaliteti i jedinstvenosti. Film „Putevima vina“ mladog redatelja i producenta Miroslava Mirkovića, koji je ujedno i scenarist, doista je „pun pogodak“ ne samo radi njegove umjetničke i dokumentarističke vrijednosti, nego i zbog mogućeg gospodarskog učinka, budući da je snimljen u vremenu teške gospodarske krize, iz koje nas mogu izvući samo strateške značajne grane proizvodnje, a time i izvoz. Film upozorava na jedinstvenost i posebnost te izvanredne mogućnosti proizvodnje vrhunskih vina s obzirom na prirodne blagodati, koje pružaju hrvatski krajevi i to ne samo na jednom području Lijepe naše, nego gotovo u svim krajevima od Prevlake do Iloka.
Premda se zemljovidni oblik Hrvatske može činiti neprirodnim, hrvatski vinogradarski krajevi dokazuju upravo suprotno. Naime, upravo zbog svog geografskog položaja i oblika Hrvatska je jedna od rijetkih zemalja u svijetu koja ima svih pet vinogradarskih zona, koje čak nema niti Francuska. Ove zone skladno prelijevaju jedna u drugu stvarajući vinogradarsku „ogrlicu“ na kojoj vrhunska vina blistaju kao raznobojni i „mirisni“ dijamanti. Redatelj Mirković je dobro uočio i u filmu izvrsno predstavio činjenicu da hrvatski vinogradi na svoj način poput lanca povezuju čitavu Hrvatsku, koju zbog toga možemo gledati kao jedan, jedinstveni, ali iznimno raznoliki vinograd. Nemoguće je navesti sve činjenice koje upućuju na ljepotu, raznolikost i sklad vinogradarskih krajolika, što redatelj i snimatelj u filmu nenametljivo predstavljaju i ističu, ali ne možemo ne spomenuti vinograde primoštenskog kraja u okolici Šibenika i Benkovca. Ovdje su vrijedni vinogradari, ograđujući zemlju suhozidima, podigli tope i zaštićene „kolijevke“ za svoje vinove loze, koje gledano iz zraka djeluju kao prave kamene čipke. Tajna njihove ljepote i sklada krije se u ljubavi kojom su vinogradari podizali suhozide da bi za trsove loza sagradili tople domove. Gledajući ove vinograde vidimo samo ljepotu, blagost i sklad te ništa ne otkriva tegobu, trud i žuljeve, koji su kao pečat otisnuti u svaki kamen vinogradarskih suhozida. Međutim, loza i njezini plodovi i te kako osjeć ćaju žuljeve svojih gospodara i zato im stostruko
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uzvraćaju obiljem ukusa, boje i arome u vinu, koje je najbolji lijek za umor i žuljeve vrijednih vinogradara, kao i svih ljudi dobre volje. Pred kraj ovog našeg filmskog hoda „Putevima vina“ treba naglasiti da se od davnine kroz tisućljeća, još od grčkih i rimskih vremena, u našim krajevima s vinom širila i civilizacija, o čemu je svjedočio i Ernest Hemingway rekavši da je vino jedna od najciviliziranijih stvari koje postoje. Također treba spomenuti i vezu zdravlja i vina, što je u starom rimu istica Marko Aurelije govoreći da vino produljuje život i zatvara rane na tijelu i srcu, a što su naši predci brzo spoznali i zato hrvatsko tradicionalno nazdravljanje vinom glasi „U zdravlje!“ S takvom zdravicom složio bi se Louis Pasteur koji je isticao da je vino najzadravije piće. S razlogom se stoga na kraju filma javljaju hrvatski vrhunski vinari, koji s vinom u čašama nazdravljaju želeći zdravlje jedan drugome i svima koji budu gledali ovaj film i uživali u njihovim proizvodima. Vrhunsku enološku stručnost enologa Franje Francema i Nataše Puhelek koji nas vode kroz film dopunjavao je glumac Igor Galo, koji je prirodnim i spontanim glumačkim umijećem, stručnim opisima vina i vinograda darivao poetsku dimenziju, koju vino zasigurno posjeduje. Poetska dimenzija koja nenametljivo „teče“ neprekidno kroz filmsku radnju ovom projektu daje umjetničku vrijednost, bez koje bi govor o vinu i vinogradarstvu bio osiromašen i nedorečen. Uspjeh koji mladi redatelj Miroslav Mirković postigao ovim filmom može zahvaliti i dobroj filmskoj ekipi koju je okupio. Zaslužuju stoga da ih se spomene, izvršni producenti filma su Sani Šola i Nenad Mirković, glazbu je skladao Kiril Džajkovski, direktor fotografije je Željko Guberović, snimatelji Slobodan Trninić i Branko Cahun. Glavni sponzori filma su Agrokor koncern, Privredna banka Zagreb, Kutjevo d.d., Ministarstvo poljoprivrede, i vinari koji su sudjelovali u projektu. Film je snimljen u produkciji Mandrak Produkcije. Zaključujući ovaj osvrt na filmsku „hrvatsku vinarsku priču“ treba još napomenuti da bi s obzirom na dokumentarnost filma netko mogao pomisliti na dosadno nizanje činjenica i podataka o vinarstvu i vinogradarstvu. Međutim, gledajući film doživljavamo upravo suprotno, jer u filmu osjećamo poticajnu životnost i gotovo sva naša osjetila izložena su doživljaju ljepote hrvatskih vinorodnih krajolika, obilju arome, boje i ukusa te životne radosti, koja izvire iz neposrednog susreta s čistom prirodom, pa moramo zajedno s Petronijem zaključiti: „In vino vita“ (U vinu je život.)
A feature-documentary by Miroslav Mirković
vinarska priča wine story
Piše: / Written by: Tin Kolumbić
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lot has been written about wine and viticulture in Croatia, but wine-rich regions, winegrowers and wine-makers in Croatia deserve much more, not only in order to point out to specifics of wine-rich regions, worthiness and skills of the people who are in the wine-production business, but also to emphasize strategic consideration of this economy branch, which can lead Croatia on the very top of wine-production in the world, of course, not by quantity, but quality and uniqueness. Film “The paths of wine” from a young director and producer Miroslav Mirković, who is also the movie writer, really is a hit, not only due to its art and documentary value, but also because of possible economy effect, considering it was shot in the times of huge economic crisis, from which only strategic branches of production can bring us out, hence the export. The film points out to uniqueness and specificity of this extraordinary possibility of topline wines production, taking into account natural benefits from Croatian regions, and not only in just one part of this beautiful country, but in almost all regions from Prevlaka to Ilok. Although geographical shape of Croatia might seem unnatural, Croatian viticultural regions prove exactly the opposite. Namely, exactly due to its geographic location and shape, Croatia is one of very few countries in the world with all five viticultural regions, which even France does not have. These zones are harmoniously transfused into each other creating viticultural “necklace” on which top-line wines glow as parti-colored and “fragrant” diamonds. Director Mirković has well perceived and excellently presented in the film the fact that Croatian wine-growers in their own way connect whole Croatia like a chain, and because of that we can look at it as one beautiful, unique, but exceptionally diverse vineyard. It is impossible to itemize all the fact pointing out to beauty, diversity and harmony of vineyard landscapes, which the director and cameramen unobtrusively presented and pointed out in the film, but we must mention vineyards from Primošten region in vicinity of Šibenik and Benkovac. Here, fencing their land with dry walls, hard-working wine-growers lifted up warm and protected “cradles” for their grape vines, which, seeing from above, look like real stone laces. Secret to their beauty and harmony is in the love through which wine-growers lifted up dry walls in order to build warm homes for their vines. Looking at these vineyards we see only beauty, tenderness and harmony, so nothing reveals hardship, hard work and blisters, which are imprinted in every stone of wine-growers’ dry walls like a signet.
However, grape vine and its yields certainly feel their masters’ blisters and in return they give them hundred times more in abundance of flavor, color and aroma in their wine, which is the best medicine for weariness and blisters in hard-working winegrowers and all people of good will. Towards the end of this film walk of ours along “The paths of wine”, it should be emphasized that from long time ago, through millenniums, from as long ago as old Greek and Roman ages, civilization spread along with wine in Croatian regions, about which Ernest Hemingway testified as well, saying that wine is one of the most civilized things that exist. The connection between health and wine also must be mentioned, which Mark Aurelius stressed out in old Rome, saying that wine makes us live longer and heals the wounds on our bodies and in our hearts, which ancestors of Croatian people recognized quickly, so the traditional toast before wine drinking in Croatia literary means “For good health”! Louis Pasteur would surely agree with this toast, because he pointed out that wine is the healthiest drink. Therefore, there is a good reason for Croatian wine-growers to appear in the end of the film, and make a toast with glasses risen in their hands, wishing good health to one another and to all those who will watch the film and enjoy their products. Superior enology skills from enologists Franjo Francem and Nataša Puhelek, who lead us through the film, was rounded by Igor Galo, the actor, who bestowed a poet dimension, which wine surely posses, with his natural and spontaneous competence, as well as professional descriptions of wine and vineyards. A poet dimension which unobtrusively “flows” continuously through the movie plot gives this project an artistic value, without which the speech about wine and viticulture would be depleted and incomplete. Young director Miroslav Mirković has gathered an excellent film crew which he can also thank on the success achieved with this film. Therefore they deserve to be mentioned, executive producers of the film were Sani Šola and Nenad Mirković, music was composed by Kiril Džajkovski, photography director was Željko Guberović, cameramen were Slobodan Trninić and Branko Cahun. Major sponsors of the movie were Agrokor Concern, Privredna banka Zagreb, Kutjevo d.d., Ministry of Agriculture, and wine-producers who participated in this project. Film was produced by Mandrak Produkcija. In conclusion to this review on “Croatian wine story” on film, it needs to be mentioned that, in consideration to documentary aspect of the film, someone could thought about boring sequencing of facts and data regarding wine and viticulture. However, we experience directly the opposite watching the film, because we feel stimulating vitality in the film, and all our senses are exposed to experience of beauty of Croatian wine-rich landscapes, abundance of aroma, color, taste and joy of living which spring out from direct encounter with virginal nature, so we must make the same conclusion as Petroni did: “In vino vita” (In wine is life).
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Što bi bila ova čaša, da vino ne združuje. Što bi bila radost naša, da sloga ne udružuje. Što bi bili mi Hrvati, da brat bratu čast ne vrati. (stihovi iz 1869. samoukog pjesnika Ive Vuletina iz Kaštela)
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abatina, Međunarodna manifestacija vinogradara i vinara već dvadeset godina združuje sve one kojima je loza u srcu, a vino teče žilama. Ova manifestacija stekla je već takve naklonosti da mnogi svoje poslovne kalendare kroje u skladu sa datumom održavanja Sabatine.
„Nije Sabatina jedna od najznačajnijih vinarskih manifestacija, već najznačajnija, i volio bi da ima više ovakvih susreta“. Sabatina u organizaciji Zadružnog saveza Dalmacije „začela“ se spontano, onako kako se često baš prave stvari stvaraju. Grupa vinogradara iz Čare, malog mjestanca u srcu Korčule i srce vinogradarstva, nakon iscrpljujućeg posla odlučili su da po završetku uspješne berbe to proslave između sebe. Iduće godine 1991. zaželjeli su da pozovu i goste na tu svoju proslavu, uglavnom one s kojima su surađivali tijekom godine ( djelatnike Dalmacijavina i ZSD-a) a neki su to iskoristili da budu blizu svojih simpatija. Zli jezici pripovijedaju da je ideju dao jedan Čaranin koji je htio na taj način domamiti jednu naočitu djelatnicu Dalmacijavina koja mu se sviđala Bilo kako bilo, prva proslava završetka berbe bila je burna i vesela pa je na kraju između tadašnjih organizatora (Ivana Krajančića, Ivana Tvrdejića i Luke Maralića i Joška Niskote) dogovoreno da ovo druženje postane tradicionalno i da se poveća broj sudionika. Tako je postavljen kamen temeljac najstarije vinogradarske manifestacije u Hrvatskoj. Međutim začetnici su željeli da te susrete povežu sa starom proslavom završetke berbe poznatoj pod nazivom Sabatina koja u Dalmaciji ima duge korijene. Naime dugo se u Dalmaciji završetak berbe nije slavio jer su kolonijalni odnosi bili takvi da je težak najveći dio uroda morao davati vlasniku zemlje, pa mu često nije ostajalo dovoljno za život te nije imao razloga za slavlje. Međutim kad su se ti odnosi popravili i nameti znatno smanjili, u razdoblju kada je Dalmacijom gospodarila Venecija, prve subote nakon završetka berbe grožđa (jematve) težaci su počeli slaviti ili tugovati, ovisno o rodu. te tež
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Jubilej najstarije vinogradarsko vinarske manifestacije u Hrvata
Na otvaranju 14. Sabatine Petar Čobanković ministar poljoprivrede, šumarstva i vodnoga gospodarstva , u pozdravnoj riječi rekao je:
Dvadeset godina Sabatine
What would be of this glass, if it wasn’t for the wine. What would be of our joy, if it wasn’t for our unity. What would be of us Croatians, if brothers didn’t honor each other.
Twenty years of Sabatina
Anniversary of oldest wine-growing and wine-producing manifestation in Croatia
(verses from 1869 self-taught poet Ivo Vuletin from Kaštela)
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abatina, international manifestation of winegrowers and wine-producers for twenty years now joins all those who bear grape-vine in their hearts, and all those who have wine flowing in their veins. This manifestation has already gained such acceptance that many people arrange their business calendars in accordance with the date when Sabatina is held. During the Opening of 14th Sabatina, Petar Čobanković, Minister of agriculture, forestry and water management, said in his welcome words: “Sabatina is not one of the most important manifestation, Sabatina is the most important manifestation, and I would like if there were more encounters like this.” Sabatina was “conceived” spontaneously in organization of Zadružni savez Dalmacije (Copartnership alliance of Dalmatia) in a way in which all the right things came to existence. A group of wine-growers from Čara, a small place in the heart of island of Korčula and a very heart of viticulture, decided after exhausting work to celebrate successful end of vintage between themselves. Next year, in 1991, they wished also to invite guests to their celebration, mostly people they cooperated with for the past year (Dalmacijavino and ZDS employees) and some of them took the opportunity to be close to their sympathies. Evil tongues say that the idea came from a man from Čara who was fond of a pretty Dalmacijavino employee and planned to lure her over in that way. Be that as it may, first celebration of the end of vintage was stirring and cheerful, so in the end, the then organizers (Ivan Krajančić, Ivan Tvrdejić, Luka Maralić and Joško Niskota) decided that this meeting should become traditional and that should be more attendees in the future. That way, headstone was laid for the oldest wine-growing manifestation in Croatia. However, originators wished to connect these encounters with old celebration of the end of vintage known as Sabatina, which has deep roots in Dalmatia. In explanation, the end of vintage was not celebrated in Dalmatia because colonial relations imposed obligation for peasants to give to their landlord most of the vintage, so quite often they were left with almost nothing to live on, and they had no reason to celebrate. However, when these relations improved and taxes were significantly lowered, in period of Venice governance over Dalmatia, first Saturday after the end of vintage, peasants started celebrating or wail, depending on vintage.
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Ta druženja su nazivali na talijanskom jeziku «sabato primo» (kao sabato santo-velika subota), jer ipak je tada u primorskim krajevima prevladavala upotreba ovog jezika. U hebrejskom (židovskom) postoji slična riječ – “sabat” (množina sabata), koja također označava subotu, a koja je preko grčkog jezika, gdje je formirana kao “sabaton” (dan odmora-subota), ušla u mnoge europske jezike u raznim varijantama, pa je i naša riječ subota dosta slična. Logično je zaključiti da se od te riječi, preko talijanskoga jezika, kasnije udomaćilo ime susreta vinogradara i vinara kao “Sabatina”. Nakon srednjeg vijeka, prema predaji, susreti vinogradara i vinara nastavili su se i za vrijeme austrougarske uprave nad Dalmacijom. Ovaj običaj, nakon drugog svjetskog rata obnovili su na kratko zadrugari na otoku Visu. Nakon osamostaljenja Hrvatske, još za vrijeme izolacije Dalmacije i velikih vojnih operacija, Zadružni savez Dalmacije službeno organizira ove susrete kao proslavu završetka berbe grožđa u Dalmaciji. Međutim vrlo brzo je to prestao biti susret samo onih iz primorskih krajeva, pa su se pridružili i vinogradari i vinari iz drugih krajeva, te je postala Hrvatska manifestacija, a kako su počeli sudjelovali i oni iz drugih država (od Crne gore do SAD-a) utvrđena je kao međunarodna. Posljednjih deset godina Sabatina je obogaćena brojnim aktivnostima, od ocjenjivanja vina i alkoholnih pića, izložbe vina, vinarske opreme i repromaterijala, do međunarodnih stručnih i znanstvenih skupova, kušanja mladih vina, komparativnih degustacija do studijskih izleta kroz obližnja vinogorja. te podjele osobnih
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They named this social events Italian name “Sabato Primo” (like Sabato Santo – Great Saturday) because in those days use of this language was prevailing in coastal regions. In Hebrew language there is a similar word – “Sabat” (Sabata plural), which also means “Saturday”, and which, through Greek language where it is formed as “Sabaton” (day for rest – Saturday), entered many European languages in various versions, so Croatian word for it is also “subota”. It’s logical to conclude that the name “Sabatina” later domesticated from that word through Italian language, as a name that represent wine-growers and wine-producers encounter. After the middleage, wine-growers and wine-producers encounters continued during the Austro-Hungarian governance over Dalmatia. After the World War II cooperative members renewed this custom for a short period of time on island of Vis. After the Croatia declared independence, during the time of huge military operations and isolation of Dalmatia, Zadružni savez Dalmacije officially organized these encounters as a celebration of the end of vintage. However, it soon stopped being the encounter only for the people from coastal regions, so other wine-growers and wineproducers from other regions joined in and it became Croatian manifestation. As participants from other countries (from Monte Negro to USA) started joining in, it was recognized as an international manifestation. In last ten years Sabatina was enriched by numerous activities, from wine and alcoholic drinks evaluation, wine, wine equipment and repro material exhibitions, trough international expert and scientific meetings, young wine tastings, comparative samplings, to studying excursions to nearby vineyards, and personal and collective awards allocations.
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i kolektivnih priznanja. Organizatori Sabatine odali su priznanja onima koji su dali doprinos vinogradarstvu i vinarstvu kroz znanosti i kulturu i to ne samo onima iz vinogradarskog kruga. Tako su priznanja dobili Edo Murtić,- slikar, Jakša Fjamengo- književnik, Davor Štambukkarikaturista, Maja Kobalt- novinarka TV, Staniley Stavski- gospodarstvenik iz Chcaga i mnogi drugi, ali su povelje dobili i anonimni ali vrijedni vinogradari i vinari koji su svoj život posvetili lozi i vinu. Danas u poplavi kojekakvih vinskih izložbi i sajmova, koje niču kao gljive poslije kiše( ali se mnoge ubrzo i ugase), Sabatina je ostala osebujna s nizom posebnosti. Ovo je jedina manifestacija koja se svake godine organizira u drugom mjestu i ima u svom sklopu veliki broj aktivnosti, od ocjenjivanja vina i jakih alkoholnih pića, okruglih stolova, sabora, stručno znanstvenog skupa u organizaciji Agronomskog fakulteta, do radionica i studijskog izleta kroz vinogorja. Manifestacija je jako vitalna pa svake godine unosi novine. Posljednjih godina u okviru Sabatine uvedene su nove aktivnosti: burza vina, radionica „O vinogradarstvu i vinarstvu popularno“ koju vodi Prof. dr. sc. Bernard Kozina, kao i ocjenjivanje otvorenih vina koje je izazvalo veliki interes vinara hobista. U Velikom vinogradarsko vinarskom leksikonu uz obrazloženje pojma Sabatine navodi se: “Cilj okupljanja… ove manifestacije je razmotriti i dogovoriti temelje za nove gospodarske odnose u poticaju razvoja ali i raspravljanju o aktualnim znanstvenim temama i primjeni tih saznanja u našim uvjetima, kao i dogovor un-
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Sabatina organizers rewarded those who contributed wine-growing and wine-production through science and culture, and not only those from viticultural milieu. Thus, these people were awarded: Edo Murtić – art painter, Jakša Fjamengo – writer, Davor Štambuk –caricaturist, Maja Kobalt – TV reporter, Staniley Stavski – businessman from Chicago and many others, but charters were also given to many anonymous but hard working wine-growers and wineproducers who dedicated their lives to grapevine and wine. Today, in the overflow of so-called wine exhibitions and fairs, which spring up like mushrooms after the rain (many of which soon vanish), Sabatina remained unique with a number of specificities. This is the only manifestation which is organized every year in a different place and has a great number of activities within its program, from wine and strong spirits evaluation, forums, assemblies, expert science meetings in organization of Faculty of Agronomy, to workshops and studying excursions trough vineyards. The manifestation is vital so that every year innovations are introduced. New activities are presented in the last years within Sabatina: wine exchange, workshop “Popularities about winegrowing and wine-producing” led by Prof. Dr. Sc. Bernard Kozina, as well as opened wine evaluation which raised great interest in hobby wine-producers. In the Veliki vinogradarsko vinarski leksikon (Big wine-growing and wine-producing lexicon) it is noted in explanation of the term “Sabatina”: “The goal of the gathering…in this manifestation is to give consideration and to make agreements on foundations for new economic relations in stimulation of development, but also to debate present scientific issues and application of these cognitions to our conditions, as well as making
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činkovitije suradnje s turističkom privredom“. Očekuje se da će ovogodišnja Sabatina, koja će okupiti one koji za lozu i od loze žive, pokušati dati odgovor na mnoga pitanja koja tište vinogradara i vinara. A domaćini u Splitu, Podstrani i Imotskome, koji prvi put ugošćuju sudionike Sabatine, nastojati će pružiti ugodan boravak i ukazat na svoju vinogradarsku i vinarsku tradiciju.
agreements on more effective cooperation with tourist economy”. It is expected that this year’s Sabatina, which will gather those who live for and from the grapevine, will try to give answers to many questions which trouble wine-growes and wine-producers. And hosts in Split, Podstrana and Imotski, who are hosting Sabatina attendees for the first time, will seek to provide a pleasant staying for them and to point out to their own wine-growing and wineproducing tradition.
SABATINE 1991.-2010.
SABATINAS 1991.-2010.
1.
ČARA (otok Korčula) 1991.
1.
ČARA (island of Korčula) 1991
2.
LASTOVO (Hotel Solitudo) 1992.
2.
LASTOVO (Hotel Solitudo) 1992
3.
OREBIĆ (Hotel Rathaneum) 1993.
3.
OREBIĆ (Hotel Rathaneum) 1993
4.
KORČULA (Hotel Marko Polo) 1994.
4.
KORČULA (Hotel Marko Polo) 1994
5.
JELSA (island of Hvar-Hotel Mina) 1995
6.
VIS (Hotel Issa) 1996
7.
CAVTAT (Hotel Croatia) 1997
8.
PRIMOŠTEN-DRNIŠ (Hotel Zora) 1998
9.
MLJET (Hotel Odisej-Pomena) 1999
5.
JELSA (otok Hvar-Hotel Mina) 1995.
6.
VIS (Hotel Issa) 1996.
7.
CAVTAT (Hotel Croatia) 1997.
8.
PRIMOŠTEN-DRNIŠ (Hotel Zora) 1998.
9.
MLJET (Hotel Odisej-Pomena) 1999.
10. SUPETAR (otok Brač-Hotel Kaktus) 2000.
10. SUPETAR (island of Brač-Hotel Kaktus) 2000
11. OREBIĆ (Hotel Rathaneum) 2001.
11. OREBIĆ (Hotel Rathaneum) 2001
12. BLATO (otok Korčula-Hoteli Alfir, Lipa, Feral i dr.)
12. BLATO (island of Korčula-Hotels Alfir, Lipa, Feral and other)
13. BOL (otok Brač-Hotelsko naselje Zlatni rat) 2003.
13. BOL (island of Brač-Hotelsko naselje Zlatni rat) 2003
14. ZADAR-BENKOVAC (Hoteli Borik) 2004.
14. ZADAR-BENKOVAC (Hotels Borik) 2004
15. DUBROVNIK (Hoteli Babin Kuk) 2005. 16. STARI GRAD (Hotel Arkada) 2006.
15. DUBROVNIK (Hotels Babin Kuk) 2005 16. STARI GRAD (Hotel Arkada) 2006
17. VODICE –DRNIŠ (Hotel Olympia) 2007.
17. VODICE –DRNIŠ (Hotel Olympia) 2007
18. KORČULA (Hotel Marko Polo) 2008.
18. KORČULA (Hotel Marko Polo) 2008
19. TROGIR- KAŠTELA (Hotel Medena) 2009
19. TROGIR- KAŠTELA (Hotel Medena) 2009
20. SPLIT -PODSTRANA I IMOTSKI (Hotelu Le Meridien Lav) 2010.
20. SPLIT -PODSTRANA AND IMOTSKI (Hotelu Le Meridien Lav) 2010
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Možda niste znali... May be you did not know… Hrvaštinazaboravljeno vino dalmatinske zagore
Hrvaština – forgotten wine of Dalmatian Zagora
U prošlosti, na području Sinjsko-vrličkog vinogorja, bilo je cijenjeno i traženo tradicionalno vino dalmatinske zagore- hrvaština, ili kako ga je domaće stanovništvo naziva rvaština. Nije poznato od kada se ovo osebujno vino proizvodi, ali se pretpostavlja da počeci njegove proizvodnje sežu u daleku prošlost. Ovo vino bilo je zapaženo i na gospodarsko - šumarskoj izložbi u Zagrebu 1891. godine. Hrvaština je posebna i po običaju da se proizvodi od bijelog i crnog grožđa. Korijen imena ovog vina neki traže u njegovom podrijetlu, a to je navodno selo Hrvace. Drugi drže da je vino dobilo ime jer se pilo prije hrvanja, da borci dobiju snagu. Neki pak tvrde da su ovo ime vinu dali susjedni narodi po Hrvatima koji su ga rado pili. Hrvaština se punila u boce do 1974. godine, a od tada je potpuno zaboravljena i ne može se naći na organiziranom tržištu. Jedino u rijetkim porodičnim podrumima dalmatinske zagore mogu vas ponuditi tradicionalnom Hrvaštinom.
Hrvaština – wine of Dalmatian Zagora, or, as locals use to call it, Rvaština, was highly valued wine and there was great demand for it in the past in the area of Sinj-Vrlika vineyards. It is unknown since when this exceptional wine has been produced, but it is presumed that its beginnings go deep in the past. This wine was also noticed in the economyforestry exhibit in Zagreb, in 1891. Hrvaština is also unique due to customary production from red and white grapes. Some people seek the roots of this wine’s name in its origin, which is, allegedly, village of Hrvace. Others believe that the wine gained its name because it was drunk before wrestling, in order for fighters to gain strength. Still, some claim that other nations named this wine after Croats (Hrvati) who gladly drank it. Hrvaština was bottled until 1974 and it was completely forgotten thereafter and can not be found in organized market. You can be offered by traditional Hrvaština only in seldom wine cellars in Dalmatian Zagora.
Trs star 200 godina
200 years old vine
Poznati stručnjak Sanko Ožanić zabilježio je u svom djelu ‘Prošlost dalmatinske poljoprivrede’ da je između dva rata našao trs, koji je bez potpore, narastao na visinu čovjeka. Imao je promjer 30 cm i davao je do 4 hl masta. Trs je Ožanić pronašao u okolici Sinja kod mjesta Hrvace. Procijenio je da mu je starost preko 200 godina.
A known expert, Sanko Ožanić, recorded in his work “Prošlost dalmatinske poljoprovrede” (History of Dalmatian agriculture) that he found a vine some time between two wars, which grew to the man’s height without any support what so ever. It was 30 cm in diameter and produced up to 4 hl of must. Ožanić found the vine around Sinj, near Hrvace. He estimated it was more than 200 years old.
Vrančić izumio posebnu vinsku prešu (slika Fausta Vrančića i slika preše) Poznato je da je srednjovjekovni znanstvenik šibenčanin Faust Vrančić u djelu ‘Machinae novae’ (Novi strojevi), koje je prvi put objavljeno u Veneciji 1615 godine, opisao mnoge svoje izume. Njegovi pronalasci obuhvaćaju 56 različitih naprava, uređaja i konstrukcija. Među značajnije opise iz spomenutoga djela spadaju viseći most, te Homo volans (lat. leteći čovjek), prikaz padobranca. Međutim malo je poznato da je izradio nacrt originalne preše za vino i ulje (“Torcular pro vino et oleo”). Tehničko rješenje je vrlo posebno i potpuno različito od dotada poznatih vinskih preša. Tadašnji tijeskovi najčešće su imali veliki balvan s vijkom. Vrančićeva presa ima koloturno dizalo pomoću kojeg se diže veliki teški kamen. Postepenim spuštanjem u drveni koš kamen je svojom težinom vršio pritisak na grožđe i tekućina se cijedila iz koša u posudu za prijenos iscjetka. Premda je ova vinska preša imala mnoge prednosti, posebno jer je može opsluživati samo jedna osoba, ipak, koliko je poznato, nije se ovakav tip preše puno koristio.
Vrančić invented a special press (slika Fausta Vrančića i slika preše) It is known that medieval scientist from Šibenik, Faust Vrančić, ih his work “Machine Novae” (New machines), which was first published in Venice in 1615, described many of his inventions. His innovations include 56 different devices, appliances and constructions. Wire-bridge and Homo volans (latin for flying man), display of parachutist, are among most significant depiction from the referred work. However, it is not well known that he also made a scheme of the original press for wine and oil (“Torcular pro vino et oleo”). Technical solution is quite special and completely different from then known wine presses. Wine presses in those days most oftenly had a big log with a screw. Vrančić’s press has a pulley hoist by which a heavy stone is lifted. By gradual lowering in wooden basket, the stone pulled a pressure on grapes with its weight and liquid drained from the basket to container for extract transfer. Although this wine press had many advantages, especially because it can be handled by only one person, for what is known, this type of press was not used much.
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