A Day at the Crag

Ask anybody where to find the best sport climbing in North America, and most people won’t say the Central Oregon desert. But most people are wrong.

Known as the birthplace of modern American sport climbing, Smith Rock State Park is just 30 minutes north of Bend. With towering basalt cliffs and endless blue skies, the area features some of the most spectacular climbing routes in the world. There are literally thousands of established routes to choose from, with options for everyone from pro climbers to first timers—even the kids.

Some of Smith Rock’s most renowned routes and climbing areas include Monkey Face, Mesa Verde Wall, The Dihedrals, and others providing a variety of challenges for all skill levels.

Smith Rock State Park encompasses 651 acres on the Oregon high desert plateau, which hovers around 3,000 feet in elevation. Hiking trails offer spectacular views of the surrounding area, including the Crooked River winding its way through the park.

Smith Rock’s major rock faces are composed of compressed volcanic ash reaching a height of up to 550 feet. The picnic and tent camping areas sit on top of the rimrock, offering dramatic views of the Crooked River, climbing routes, and climbers.

Want to try your hand at climbing? You’ll find several outfitters and climbing schools in the area, equipped to have your whole family safely scaling rock faces in no time. You’ll also find gear shops and restaurants nearby to ensure you have everything you need to safely enjoy your adventure. But don’t feel like you need to scale cliff walls to fully appreciate Smith Rock. Lots of hiking trails require no ropes at all. Keep an eye out for eagles, osprey, otters, deer, and other wildlife in the area, especially along the stunning Crooked River.

Though Smith Rock is a year-round climbing destination, summer temperatures can reach 100 degrees, and winter temperatures often hover around freezing. Spring and fall are the most popular climbing months. The park and walkin tent camping are open year round. A $5 day use permit or a current state park camp receipt is needed for each vehicle. Yearly permits are available for $30, and day use permits are available from the self-service pay stations.

Keep in mind that Smith Rock is a popular attraction and parking can be challenging in summertime and on weekends. Beat the crowds and visit Smith Rock on a weekday, or consider carpooling to reduce congestion. It’s also crucial to stay on marked trails to protect the fragile landscapes at Smith Rock. Take plenty of photos, but please leave only your footprints!

Interested in other climbing areas around Central Oregon? In addition to Smith Rock State Park, Bend offers several other, lesser-known pockets of superb climbing. Check in with one of the local guides or shops for suggestions and directions to other climbing locations in town.

VISITBEND.COM/CLIMB

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