4. Towns and villages

Many of the towns and villages in the Mourne region have long histories, with links to early churches, Norman castles and family estates.

Castlewellan, Hilltown and Rathfriland were developed in the mid-eighteenth century during expansion in the linen industry. Extensive linen bleaching took place in Castlewellan from 1749 and a mill was erected in 1829, the first mill in Ireland capable of spinning fine yarns. The first Earl of Downshire established Hilltown in 1766 as another centre for the linen industry but it soon lost importance in competition with nearby Rathfriland. All three towns were important market centres and were used by local farmers to sell livestock and produce and to host fairs. Smaller villages such as Kilcoo, Attical and Leitrim provided support to their local communities.

The waters off Dundrum Bay provided particularly good fishing grounds and numerous small fishing villages, such as Annalong, developed along the coastline. Dundrum’s trade was centred on the import of coal and export of wood. However, the south and south-east winds have always created hazardous sailing conditions in the Dundrum area and as trade increased the larger boats found more suitable ports. Kilkeel became the main fishing port and remains so to this day. The harbour has undergone a series of developments, which was of interest to Cecil Newman who thought that the presence of a working fishing fleet could be used as an attraction, as well as a source of employment and economic benefit to the wider community.

The setting of Newcastle, located between mountains and sea, has long been appreciated for its beauty. With a reputation for good bathing waters, hotels and spas were established here from the early nineteenth century. Cranfield is a good example of how smaller resorts developed in the 1950s. In addition to its fine beach, its wartime airfield provided a perfect foundation for a large caravan and camping area.

The larger towns of Newry and Warrenpoint have benefited most from industrial development and port facilities. In the case of Warrenpoint, this was combined with its early development of a flourishing tourist industry. Cecil’s photographs Cecil’s photographs reflect all these differing, and changing, aspects of towns in and around the Mournes.

4.4 Attical

Like many small settlements, Attical served the local rural population and provided essential amenities. Its setting within the rural landscape, at the foothill of the Mournes, is beautifully illustrated by the photograph on the back cover of this book. The garage shown here has been replaced since the photograph was taken. (N-201)

4.5 Bryansford Petrol Filling Station 17.5.66

Bryansford, which is thought to be have been named after Bryan Magennis, was developed in association with the Tollymore Estate and housed many of its workers. At the time this photograph was taken the small village consisted of two churches, a shop and this filling station, for many years owned by the Douglas family. (N-153)

4.6 Castlewellan – Upper Square

A town plan for Castlewellan was commissioned by the Annesley family in the mid eighteenth-century and originally consisted of the upper and lower squares connected by a wide street. The Upper Square was designed to be the market square with a market house, now occupied by the public library, in the style of a church. (N-089)

4.7 Castlewellan – Lower Square

Cecil and his colleagues considered Castlewellan to be a good example of town planning and effective as a market and service centre. He was particularly fond of the Lower Square, lined with chestnut trees, which he thought created an attractive impression that should be maintained. (N-085)

4.8 Cranfield

Cranfield has long been popular with holidaymakers and their caravans, drawn to it by the superb beaches at the mouth of Carlingford Lough. Cecil and his team of technical officers recommended that there should be comprehensive recreational development here to include caravans, camping, car parking and picnicking. (N-211)

4.9 Dundrum Harbour

Historically, Dundrum Harbour was an important port until it closed to commercial activities in 1984. The East Downshire Steamship Company was based here, exporting wood and importing coal. Occasionally a passenger vessel called in, such as the Isle of Lewis shown here. In the foreground are Cecil’s three children, Michael, Pat and John. (N-021)

4.11 Hilltown Hotel

Wills Hill, Marquess of Downshire, established Hilltown in 1776, during the development of the linen industry. The original Downshire Arms on the left, and the old market house, with the clock tower, have been developed into self catering accommodation, along with a popular bar and restaurant. Built in 1828, the market house’s architect was Thomas Duff who was also responsible for the court house in Newry. (N-889)

4.12 Kilcoo Nov ’67

Kilcoo is one of the many small villages Cecil studied with a view to planning its future development. At the time of his 1970 survey it is described as having a church, school, shop and a few houses. (N-157)

4.13 Kilkeel Square, April ’67

Cecil was particularly concerned about increases in traffic volume within the Mourne area. In his survey in 1970 he proposed that options for the relief of traffic from Kilkeel’s Lower Square be explored sooner rather than later, since the nature of its ribbon development and incised river beds would limit available alternatives. Shown here on the left is the Stella Maris Café, owned by the Morgan family, now occupied by Fisher & Fisher, solicitors. The building on the right was Murphy’s Grocery Stores, now closed and unoccupied. The road between the two buildings is the Mountain Road. (N-220)

4.14 Kilkeel – Nets & Fishing Fleet Feb 68

(N-242)

4.15 Fish boats Kilkeel Aug ’67

(N-260)

4.16 Kilkeel Fishing Fleet May ’68

(N-254)

4.17 Fishing boats & bows Feb ’68

(N-255) Kilkeel has had a long association with the fishing industry that has proved not only an economic asset but also an attraction for visitors. However, largescale offshore fishing is comparatively recent. The inner harbour was built in the mid-nineteenth century and extended in 1916. Above: The Greenisle shown here was one of the first of a series of modern boats, designed and built in Buckie, Scotland, for the Chambers family of Annalong. The boat next to it could be the Green Hill. The third boat, Green Pastures, was sold to New Zealand in 1965. These images can be compared with Pat Hudson’s – for instance. Below: The Bonnie Roy and Maud Chambers both appear in his photographs (Part 1, Chapter 6). (N-242, N-254, N-255 and N-260)

4.18 Leitrim 29.5.66

This image, taken from the Backaderry Road, shows the bridge over the Leitrim River and in the background the spire of the Church of the Immaculate Conception, which was completed in 1874. (N-013)

4.19 & 4.20 Newcastle – Main Street North and Main Street South March ’68

These two views of Main Street show this popular resort as it was in the 1960s – the promenade has since been attractively developed but traffic congestion continues to be a problem, especially in the summer months. (N-406 and N-402)

4.21 Newry Canal & old houses June ’67

Newry Canal was the first summit level canal (one connecting two separate river valleys) in the British Isles. Completed in 1742, it played a very important role in developing trade and industry in the town. Mills and warehouses were established on its banks, as can be seen on the left side of this photograph. Wealthy merchants traded in linen, coal, salt and other commodities. (N-578)

4.22 Newry, Albert Basin

The Albert Basin was established in the mid-nineteenth century and improved the port of Newry, enabling larger ships to gain access. This benefited the linen industry in the town and enabled many merchants to trade in coal and other goods, with their own ships. This area is now the location of the Quays Shopping Centre. (N-581)

4.23 Newry Town Hall and river Oct ’67

Newry town hall was designed by William Batt and built in 1893 in Classical style. It sits on the picturesque bridge across the Clanrye River, which is the historic boundary between the counties of Armagh and Down. The posters along the river include advertisements for beer, Oxfam and a career in the Army. (N-509)

4.24 Newry – Linenhall Square Open Space June ’67

The name of this square refers back to the importance of the linen industry in Newry in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. The area was also known locally as ‘the Barracks’ since the houses had been converted from military quarters. The community was changing again when this photograph was taken, as many families were being re-housed on new estates. The square was then completely demolished. (N-554)

4.25 and 426 Newry – Lower North Street 6 ’Oct 67 and Lower North Street 4 Oct ’67

Cecil took a series of photographs of Lower North Street in October 1967, showing rows of derelict shops, which have since been demolished. These were some of the oldest houses in Newry and the area once the thriving hub of the original town. Right: Note the poster, declaring it a ‘Heinz Souperday’ (N-519 and N-520)

4.27 Newry, Margaret Square

Compare this photograph with the one taken about twenty years earlier by Pat Hudson (Part 1, Chapter 4, H-86). While F Moore & Co still occupies the corner site, you get a sense of the pace of life getting faster, the range of cars increasing and signage and adverts becoming bolder. Check the time on the clock with Pat Hudson’s photograph! The clock was later removed but one of its faces is now in the Newry and Mourne Museum Collection. (N-928)

4.28 Newry – Merchant’s Quay – traffic jam June ’67

Until the middle of the twentieth century, cargoes of timber, sugar, grain and spirits were transported along Newry Canal and unloaded here. Cecil has illustrated the level of traffic congestion on Merchant’s Quay, which runs from Buttercrane Quay to Sugar Island. At this time it was the main road through Newry from Dublin to Belfast. (N-571)

4.29 & 4.30 Rathfriland

With a history dating back to the seventeenth century, Rathfriland is typical of a Plantation-period settlement and has been an important market town for the surrounding area. Above: This view on the left is of Market Square, with the market house behind the war memorial. The substantial building on the centre right is the former Northern Bank building, currently for sale. Right: This photograph shows Main Street. Stewart and Gibson’s hardware shop is still in business but Gamble’s and Watson’s have closed since the photograph was taken. (N-879 and N-882)

4.31 Rostrevor – Kilbroney River Feb ’68

This view of Water Street, taken from Bridge Street, shows the Kilbroney River on its approach to Carlingford Lough. The river is a designated Area of Special Scientific Interest (ASSI) due to the importance of its underlying geology. (N-864)

4.32 Rostrevor – Textile Factory Aug ’68

The textile industry in Rostrevor dates back to the early nineteenth century. Traditional small-scale production has continued alongside the development of these larger factories. Cecil and his team encouraged the promotion of local products for the tourist market. (N-859)

4.33 Warrenpoint Square – Sunday

While Warrenpoint was a relatively quiet town during the week, on Sundays it was quite different as you can see here from all the cars parked in the Square. People flocked from Newry and the surrounding area to enjoy the beach and have ice cream and teas. (N-816)

4.34 Warrenpoint – Omeath ferry

Despite proposing numerous developments in Warrenpoint, including the introduction of a car ferry terminal, Cecil and his team recognised a place for small leisure boats and the tradition associated with the Omeath ferry. Fortunately, others must have agreed because a small passenger ferry still operates between Warrenpoint and Omeath, on the Carlingford Peninsula, in the summer months. (N-842)

5.1 Longstone & Binnian

Standing 2.4 metres high and composed of granite, the now solitary Long Stone at Moneydarraghmore may once have stood alongside three other stones to form a chambered grave (Evans, 2005). Three other standing stones in Co Down are also known as ‘The Long Stone’. (N-328)