Understanding the terroir of Stellenbosch

Page 1


STELLENBOSCH TERROIR

VOLUME 2 | 2023

Understanding the terroir of Stellenbosch

Image courtesy of Bartinney

The terroir of the Stellenbosch wine district is dynamic, and diverse. While the Western Cape region is often described as Mediterranean, Stellenbosch is primarily a maritime Atlantic climate, heavily influenced by strong converging bay and ocean breezes. From the direction of Bottelaryberg to the west, the fresh Table Bay breeze penetrates 35km inland to provide a cooling and humidifying effect. From the south-east, the fierce False Bay winds drive across Cape Point, crashing against Gordon’s Bay, Schapenberg, peaks of the Helderberg, and the sandy plains of Faure, Raithby and Firgrove.

Averaging 25km per hour, the force of this wind restricts vigour and yields, providing intensity and finesse in the wines. The merging of the cool Benguela running down the West Coast and the warmer Agulhas current creates the strong Atlantic Oceanic wind, adding additional force and coolness to breezes coming off False Bay and Table Bay.

Stellenbosch is made up of a constellation of microclimates, dramatic topography and is home to some of the world’s most ancient soils. Stellenbosch’s time as an estuary coupled with the upper mountain run-off gives its lower lying vineyards soil complexity and depth.

The variety of exposures and elevations, from as low as sea level to well over 1 000m, and rainfall differences allows for a diversity of site expressions. Granite, shale and sandstone geology found across Stellenbosch shape the unique characteristics of the wines: from bright, tight and intense, to textured and expressive. An intricate web of rivers and perennial streams meander through the mountain ridges and undulating patchwork of vineyards.

To understand this unique and compelling terroir, we explore the history of Stellenbosch, head to all its four corners and explain the distinctive characteristics of its wines.

History of ancient Stellenbosch

950 - 550 million years ago

Sediments are deposited in an ancient ocean bordering the Kalahari craton landmass to become Malmesbury shale.

550 - 510 million years ago

Continental collision and volcanic activity cause the formation of the Cape Granite Suite, which plays a significant role in the geology of many Stellenbosch vineyards.

450 million years ago

Primary sandstones sedimentation of the Table Mountain Group atop eroding Malmesbury shales and granites of the Cape Granite Suite become the cliffs surrounding Stellenbosch today.

300 million years ago

Gondwana, the southern half of the supercontinent Pangea, develops a rift that separates South Africa from the Falkland Plateau. The rift floods, forming the Agulhas Sea and becomes the site for Cape Supergroup sediments.

250 million years ago

A collision of continents creates the Cape Fold Belt, producing much of the dramatic mountain scenery of the modern Cape, including Table Mountain and Simonsberg.

1.3 million - 300 000 years ago

40 000 - 20 000 years ago

The first signs of human habitation on Papegaaiberg and the slopes of Simonsberg. This is also when today’s gravels and colluvial soils form.

An ice age traps water in ice caps, dropping sea levels and exposing the continental shelf of South Africa, including many

parts of Stellenbosch.

14 000 - 10 000 years ago

The ice caps melt, causing the ocean to rise. The Botterlaryberg is reduced to an island, as Stellenbosch becomes an estuary.

10 000 years ago

Burials of the first San ancestors appear in the Coastal region and Stellenbosch.

2 000 years ago

Hunter-gatherer groups are assimilated or displaced by the Khoekhoen herders, nomadic pastoralists, who used the Stellenbosch area for summer grazing and fishing.

1709

Willem Adriaan, Simon van der Stel’s son, is granted Vergelegen and uses his power to turn it into the largest farm in the Cape.

1815

1710 - 1800

A lack of roads makes it hard to transport wine on ox carts from Stellenbosch to Cape Town. Few new wineries are established at this time.

The Cape becomes part of the British Empire. England becomes a market for South Africa’s best wines.

1867

Oude Libertas becomes the first co-operative by making wine from their own and their neighbours’ grapes.

1753

Stellenbosch counts more than a million vines, a quarter of the total plants in the Cape.

1850

Bottelary, Eersterivier, HottentotsHolland, Klapmuts, Moddergat and Stellenbosch make up the wards in the Stellenbosch district.

1859 Oidium first appears in the Cape.

1886

Phylloxera first reported in the Cape. The year before, South Africa sent an entomologist to Bordeaux, who claimed that South Africa’s autumns were too brutal for phylloxera to survive.

History of modern Stellenbosch

1925

Pinot Noir and Cinsault are crossed to create Pinotage. The first commercial Pinotage was only released by Lanzerac in 1959 with fruit from Bellevue.

1932

Chateau Libertas released at one shilling per bottle, moving away from the sweet, fortified wines popular at the time.

1971

Stellenbosch Wine Routes is established.

1973

The Wine of Origin scheme is introduced. Only 14 wine estates exist at the time.

1909

Steen (Chenin Blanc) and Green Grape (Semillon) are the two most planted grape varieties in Stellenbosch, followed by Hermitage (Cinsault). Other grape varieties include Sauvignon Blanc, Pontac, Cabernet Sauvignon, white French, and red and white Muscadel.

1964

After the “white wine revolution” swept through the Cape, Lieberstein becomes the most sold bottled wine in the world.

1973

Oude Libertas wines are the first in South Africa to indicate origin, vintage and variety.

1980

Devon Valley (1996),

Simonsberg-Stellenbosch becomes the first promulgated ward in Stellenbosch. This is followed by Jonkershoek Valley (1991), Papegaaiberg (1992), Bottelary (1996), Devon Valley (1996), Banghoek (2005), Polkadraai Hills (2006) and Vlottenburg (2021).

1994

Stellenbosch wines granted access to foreign markets after the first democratic elections in South Africa.

2012

Climate change data shows that Stellenbosch temperature increased by 1.5ºC over a 40-year period.

2019

Stellenbosch signs the Porto Protocol in a commitment to fight climate change.

2005

Single vineyard legislation is introduced and the wine estate system replaced with estate wine designation. By 2017, 207 units are registered for estate wine, of which 71 are located in Stellenbosch.

2017

The Stellenbosch Cabernet Collective is established to promote the regional variety.

2020

Stellenbosch is nominated world’s best wine region by Wine Enthusiast.

2021

Stellenbosch Wine Routes celebrates its 50th anniversary.

Stellenbosch terroir map

Northwards

Papegaaiberg ward & Plankenburgrivier area

Simonsberg-Stellenbosch ward

Banghoek ward

18 - 29km/h 76 - 250m

16 - 17°C 600 - 800mm

Northwards, the Papegaaiberg ward crests at 250m and comprises shale with granitic influence in the southwest, and sandstone to the south-east. Along the R304, the basins of the Simonsberg and eastern Bottelaryberg straddle the Plankenburgrivier. Here, the soils have an alluvial sandstone signature and deliver mineral notes. The hills on either side have deep red soils, influenced by shale, adding richness. The varying exposures on the hills continue over Kriekbult towards Joostenburgvlakte, providing abundant complexity. As you head closer to Klapmuts, soils take on a granitic profile, imbuing wines with restraint.

25 - 83km/h 101 - 1200m

13 - 18°C 600 - 1040mm

To the north-east along the R44, the towering 1200m peaks of the Simonsberg spawn the Klippiesrivier. Parallel to this, the Kromrivier absorbs the Plankenburg and joins the Jonkershoekrivier, forming the Eersterivier. The dramatic changes in elevation provide the perfect environment for swirling winds to cool the primarily south-west facing slopes during the growing season and harvest. The high rainfall enables dryland farming, while the decomposed granitic soils are deep, promoting fruit flavour and striking, compact tannins.

18 - 36km/h 250 - 720m

13 - 17°C 1000 - 2000mm

The once treacherous Helshoogte pass towards Franschhoek provides a gateway to the north-east in the Banghoek ward shaped by the river on its eastern flank. The ward is guarded by the southern peaks of the Simonsberg, and Botmaskop on the Jonkershoekberg. This provides a channel for strong mountain and bay breezes that limit yields, producing elegant dry wines with fine tannins and racy acidity. The vineyards here are steep and north-east facing with sandstone traits, and a band of granite running through the centre.

Eastwards

Jonkershoek Valley ward

Stellenboschberg and Blaauwklippen Valley area

Helderberg, Lourens River Valley and Schapenberg area

18 - 83km/h 140 - 954m

13 - 18°C 800 - 2000mm

Going east, the Jonkershoek Valley lies between the heights of the Banghoek ward and the terraces of the Stellenboschberg. The Jonkershoekrivier, fed by substantial rainfall, carves its way through the windswept gulley, creating a source for the Eersterivier. The mostly south-westerly facing slopes have a complex geology, with pockets of sandstone, and a core of shale surrounded by granite. The sedimentation produced by the waterways render rich, deep topsoils with a clay substructure, lending powdery tannins and fruit purity to its wines.

18 - 83km/h 46 - 1189m

16 - 18°C 500 - 2000mm

To the east of the R44 lies the Stellenboschberg with its cap of Table Mountain sandstone, rocky ridges and a granitic belly. As you head south, the Bloukliprivier, fed by the Moordenaars and Paradys tributaries, carves out a steep kloof of complex soil layers and terraces. The strong afternoon breeze from False Bay and dramatic rise in elevation constrains growth of the southerly facing vineyards. Balanced by moderate temperatures, wines here are refined yet have explosive fruit and texture.

25 - 83km/h 50 - 1080m

13 - 17°C 700 - 2000mm

The Helderberg has two orientations. To the northwest, the Bonterivier runs through its foothills towards the Eersterivier. The up to 500m vineyard altitude and granitic soils promote even ripening to deliver harmonious wines with structure and finesse. The south-east facing side is one of the windiest areas in South Africa. Here, the Lourensrivier splits its microclimate. In the valley, the south-western facing vineyards and deep ferric soils produce ageable, restrained wines. On the southern bank, the south-east facing Schapenberg vineyards rest on granite which, with a strong maritime influence, yields fruit intensity and freshness.

Southwards

Stellenboschberg and Helderberg basins

Vlottenburg ward and Eersterivier area

South-western Stellenbosch, Faure and Firgrove area

18 - 29km/h 20 - 120m

16 - 17°C 600 - 900mm

Directly south, and to the southwest of the Stellenboschberg and Helderberg, lie their respective basins. Above the Annandale Road, where the Bloukliprivier meets the eastern bank of the Eersterivier, the geology is mostly granite, with a seam of sandstone. South, the Bonterivier makes its way through Raithby to the Eersterivier, where the soils are mostly granitic. The complex layers of iron-rich subsoils provide optimal drainage. A temperate environment with north-west facing slopes make the wines complex even in their youth.

18 - 29km/h 0 - 175m

16 - 17°C 500 - 700mm

Following the bank of the Eersterivier south along the R310, lies the Vlottenburg ward. Its granite-derived soils and south-facing slopes (peaking at around 160m), produce complex, concentrated wines. As the river heads further southeast, the geology changes to a shale composition. The abundant sedimentation, humidity, and coolness from the Eersterivier and False Bay winds promotes refinement. The clay subsoils retain moisture, allowing longer hangtime, producing wines with intense flavour, weight, and vibrant fruit purity.

25 - 36km/h 0 - 100m

16 - 17°C 200 - 600mm

To the west of Polkadraai and Bottelary, the Kuilsrivier flows south down the western border of the Stellenbosch district. Near Vlaeberg, the soils transition in parallel bands from granite to shale, to decomposed sandstone closer to the river. These south to west facing vineyards continue in a crescent shape as the Kuilsriver drains into the Eersterivier. At this intersection, the low-lying sandy vineyards of Faure, Raithby and Firgrove reflect the harvest heat, promoting ripeness held in check by fierce onshore breezes to produce bold wines with purity.

Westwards

Devon Valley ward and Stellenbosch Kloof area

Bottelary ward

Polkadraai Hills ward

18 - 29km/h 50 - 414m

16 - 17°C 600 - 800mm

Passing Papegaaiberg, the Devon Valley Road splits its ward with a shale composition to the east and granite to the west. These hills have some of the greatest aspect diversity in Stellenbosch and are sheltered from sea breezes. Abundant sunshine exposure delivers intense wines with a diversity of site expressions. Along the M12 and into Stellenbsoch Kloof, the elevation and slope gradients steadily rise as you head towards the steep eastern crest of the Bottelaryberg. Here, the south to east facing vineyards and strongly sedimented granitic soils consistently produce rich and multi-faceted wines.

18 - 36km/h 100 - 412m

16 - 18°C 400 - 700mm

The Bottelary Road (M23) from Cape Town traverses this ward with a shale dominant geology to the north, gaining a more granitic and sandstone composition at higher elevations. The vineyards are primarily north and west facing. There is a strong influence from both bay breezes, especially on the hilltops. Though rainfall is relatively low, there is abundant humidity, giving rise to thin cloud cover that provides respite from the summer heat. This delivers powerful, textured wines with abundant fruit concentration.

18 - 36km/h 100 - 286m

13 - 17°C 500 - 800mm

As the M12 rises and dissects this ward, the Polkadraai Hills lie to the north where they connect with the Bottelaryberg. Underpinned by granite and shale geology, a range of soils comprising decomposed granite, gravel and clay provide ample drainage in wet winters and enough moisture to nourish vines during summer. As with other microclimates in the west, it is characterised by a diversity of elevations and aspects. The summits of the hills have an unguarded channel to the two bays, producing fresh and intense wines.

Chenin Blanc across Stellenbosch

Northwards Eastwards Southwards Westwards

White peach Baked apple
Apricot
Apple Pineapple
Apricot White peach
Apple Apricot
Peach Melon
White peach Apple
Pear Lemon
Body:
Body:
Body: Lemon

Shiraz across Stellenbosch

Northwards Eastwards Southwards Westwards

Plum Black, white pepper
Red cherry Dark chocolate
White pepper Cherry
Blackberry Violets
Plum
Blackberry Liquorice
Black, white pepper Dark cherry Plum Cranberry
Black, white pepper

Pinotage across Stellenbosch

Northwards Eastwards Southwards Westwards

Grippy, bold

Balanced, elegant, fresh

Tannin:
Tannin:
Tannin: Grippy, soft
Dark Plum
Baking spice Strawberry Plum
Baking spice Dark chocolate Red cherry Plum Red cherry Chocolate Baking spice
Dark cherry Plum
Baking spice Raspberry

Cabernet Sauvignon across Stellenbosch

Northwards Eastwards Southwards Westwards

Fine, firm

Balanced, fresh, concentrated

Elegant, structured, fresh

Tannin:
Blackcurrant Dark chocolate
Dried herbs Plum
Dark cherry Plum
Blackcurrant Earth
Sour cherry Dried herbs Tobacco Plum Cherry Tobacco
Blackcurrant Blackcurrant
Image courtesy of K. Crause
Image courtesy of Stellenzicht
Image courtesy of Kleine Zalze
Image courtesy of Pinotage Association
Image courtesy of Jaco Engelbrecht/Visual Viticulture
Image courtesy of Jordan
Image courtesy of Stellenrust

Vintage overview Stellenbosch

1960s

The 1960s was an era of blends, despite their stated single varietal claims. For example, many Cabernet Sauvignons had a large percentage of Cinsaut in them, as the big berries lubricated the small Cabernet Sauvignon grapes during crush. Despite the lack of resources and know-how, many wines from the 60s have aged remarkably well.

Best vintages: 1965, 1966

The 1970s were successful for Stellenbosch and marked by a rising popularity for Pinotage. In 1973 the Wine of Origin scheme introduced consistency, identity and quality standards across the district. The 1974 vintage in Stellenbosch is regarded as the finest in recent memory. Like other vintages of the mid-70s, while tasting ripe and rich when young, have demonstrated an ability to stay intact and improve with age.

Best vintages: 1972, 1974

Technological advances lifted the overall quality of wines in a decade that was characterised by several standout vintages in even years. Cabernet-dominated red blends in Stellenbosch continued to rise in status with the addition of Shiraz making a creative statement in the mid-80s. The decade ended with arguably the toughest vintage in recent history next to 2002.

Best vintages: 1982, 1986

With the opening of international markets, the 90s ushered in a new age of producers sourcing wine from multiple vineyards. It was a decade marked by variable vintage conditions with standout vintages occurring in early odd years. White wine rose to the fore as Stellenbosch Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay gained critical acclaim.

Best vintages: 1991, 1995

A greater era of flux ensued. Even harvest conditions shaped overall quality. Difficult vintages early on tested winemaking skills. However, 2005 was a turning point, with the decade ending on a high note in 2009 when even temperatures and the timing of sporadic rainfall extended the harvest as far as May, producing structured and ageable wines.

Best vintages: 2005, 2009

A decade starting with rain and ending in drought. Stellenbosch producers will never forget the threat of Day Zero. While conditions led to decreased yields and significant vine mortality, it also resulted in less disease, and small berries with deep concentration. The decade witnessed the first 100point score for South Africa which was achieved by a Stellenbosch 2015 red blend.

Best vintages: 2015, 2017

Recent Vintages Stellenbosch

Favourable conditions throughout the season resulted in an exceptional vintage. Whilst this was a turbulent year of COVID-19 and alcohol bans, resulting in a chaotic harvest, this will be remembered as a standout year for wine.

A cooler growing season than average resulted in a later than usual harvest. While crops were small, the quality of the grapes was outstanding, resulting in wines with good ageing potential.

A wet, cool winter and spring resulted in a slow but even ripening period, giving grapes the opportunity to develop in colour and flavour. Another classic Stellenbosch vintage.

Standout varietals: Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay

Standout varietals: Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon

Standout varietals: Pinotage, Cabernet Sauvignon

Acknowledgements

All information is based on the Wine of Origin Scheme 2022. Great thanks to everyone who participated in research tastings, as well as to the following people and organisations for their valuable contributions and advice:

Amanda de Klerk (Stellenbosch Wine Routes)

Bennie Howard (Veritas)

Bonita Floris (SAWIS)

Celeste Small (SAWIS)

Chris de Klerk (CADEK Media)

A/Prof. David Priilaid (UCT SMS)

Dr Edo Heyns (AdVini SA)

Elmarie Rabe (Stellenbosch Wine Routes)

Dr Etienne Terblanche (Vinpro)

Heinrich Schloms (Vinpro)

Dr Jonathan Steyn (UCT GSB)

Lorraine Geldenhuys (Elsenburg Agricultural Institute)

Michael Fridjhon

Michael van Deventer (Bergkelder)

Raphaela van Embden (Collectivantage)

Spencer Fondaumiere (SASA)

Turn static files into dynamic content formats.

Create a flipbook
Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.