7 minute read
Tucson Day Trips
EXPLORING THE DESERT AND SKY ISLANDS OF SOUTHERN ARIZONA
BY AMANDA CASTLEMAN
Photos by Pete Gregoire unless otherwise noted
Birdwatching, historic sites, art galleries, and a growing wine scene are just a few of the reasons why Tucson tops many travelers’ bucket lists. Here are four day-trip itineraries that will help you navigate this dynamic destination and its neighboring communities.
Photo by Ray Cleveland
Rare Sky Island Bird Sightings
Sixty mountain peaks dot the landscapes from Mexico into the Southwest. These steep, isolated mountains create “sky island” sanctuaries above the Sonoran Desert floor. Their ecosystems change with the elevation, creating some of the world’s highest levels of biodiversity. Iconic conservationist Aldo Leopold loved this landscape. “To my mind these live oak-dotted hills, these pine-clad mesas spangled with flowers, these lazy trout streams burbling under great sycamores and cottonwoods, come near to being the cream of creation,” he wrote.
Over half of North America’s birds shelter in this archipelago, drawing buffs with binoculars. Madera Canyon, a valley high in the Santa Rita Mountains 42 miles south of Tucson, especially stands out. At least 15 species of hummingbirds flit here, including the continent’s tiniest feathered friend: the Calliope, which weighs as much as a ping pong ball. But the show-stopping “life list” star is the elegant trogon with its lemon-yellow beak, hibiscus-red breast and metallic-lime cowl tapering down its back. One of the most sought-after birds for birdwatchers, trogons often roost in the lower forest canopy. Some linger year-round, but most migrate here in early April and depart by late July. Listen carefully for their odd croaking call, delightfully at odds with their flashy, tropical-cocktail plumage.
Image: An Elegant Trogon Spotted at Madera Canyon
Art, History and Evocative Mission Ruins
Fifty miles south of downtown Tucson, the Santa Cruz River softens the desert into semi-arid grasslands. This lushness attracted Indigenous farmers — including the O'odham and Yoeme — for generations. In 1691, the now legendary Jesuit priest Eusebio Francisco Kino, commonly referred to as Father Kino, arrived in the territory to establish Catholic missions. He founded San Xavier del Bac Mission and its lesser-known sister to the south, Tumacácori – a National Historical Park today. “But there was no church here during Kino’s lifetime,” explains Anita Badertscher, the chief of interpretation and education at Tumacácori. “He just said, ‘yes, this is a good place for a mission.’” Tumacácori became the first mission in the territory now known as Arizona.
Today, visitors to Tumacácori can pause in the sweetly scented garden — shaded by olive, mesquite, and pomegranate trees — before exploring the serene grounds. Many early adobe structures have dissolved, but the ruins of a nevercompleted, early 19th-century, Baroque church remain. Park officials have preserved its sunbleached brick façade and faded interior frescos. The result? A feeling of mystery and sanctity, as nature gently erodes the architecture. From there, drive three miles north to the artsy village of Tubac or stroll there along the Juan Bautista de Anza National Historic Trail. The one-time presidio (fort) became Arizona’s first state park – and is home to both ruins and museum exhibits. Visitors also appreciate the atmospheric B&Bs, galleries, jewelry stores, and family-owned restaurants. Foodies shouldn’t miss the mole pipián rojo with pumpkin seeds at Elvira’s, an eatery that first began in Nogales, Mexico, almost a century ago.
Above: Tumacácori Mission
Below: Tubac and the Anza Trail
Image: Los Milics Vineyards
Photo by Bruce Racine Courtesy of Los Milics Vineyards
Arizona Wine Country
“The high Sonoran Desert is a dry, elevated climate that is very similar to the Mediterranean’s. A lot of Sicilian grapes are used in our wines – Spanish and southern French ones too,” explains Moniqua Lane, owner of Tucson’s new, boutique wine hotel, The Citizen.
To taste vintages among the vines, head 50 miles southeast to the town of Sonoita and its neighbor Elgin. The family-run Dos Cabezas WineWorks showcases two of the area’s powerhouse varietals — grenache and syrah — in its flagship rosé, handpicked and stomped by foot. The winery also uses its crush pad to bake pizzas, including a spicy number with smoked ham, caciocavallo cheese and shishito peppers.
The state’s oldest commercial winery lies nearby at Sonoita Vineyards, established in 1983. At an elevation of 5,000 feet among rolling grasslands, the property shelters between three mountain ranges, protecting it from frost and harsh winds. This allows crops to flourish, including Mission grapes, like Americas’ earliest vinifera variety. Used in wines for Catholic sacraments and now trending as a fortified dessert drink, you can sample vinifera at Sonoita Vineyards when you sip on the rich, portstyle Tiger’s Treat.
Los Milics is another highlight. A vast land-art installation greets visitors to this working vineyard and tasting room. Amid cutting-edge modern design, try two of the region’s signatures: pale aromatic malvasia bianca — thought to have ancient Greek origins — and bold mourvèdre with hints of sage and stewed berries.
The Town Too Tough to Die
In Tombstone, The Old West is still riding off into the sunset 75 miles southeast of Tucson. An 1877 silver strike made this dusty stretch a boom town. Chilled champagne flowed, as residents enjoyed theaters, debate clubs and even a roller rink.
But opportunity can open the door to trouble: 1881 saw the West’s bloodiest stretch of gunfights. Tombstone’s contribution was the infamous O.K. Corral shoot-out. Cattle-rustling cowboys and profiteering lawmen — including the Earp brothers and John “Doc” Holliday — squared off. In 30 seconds, three men died, and a legend began.
Today, some honor the town’s legacy by wearing period attire. On weekends and during festivals, the six-block historic area teems with bustles, cravats, frock coats and parasols. But the cosplay isn’t all about cowboys, Natives, and settlers. Re-enactors like Charles Hancock represent the Buffalo Soldiers, the Black cavalry and infantry regiments organized shortly after the Civil War. “We tell the story of their achievements,” he explains.
Tombstone’s ambiance continues at spots like Big Nose Kate’s Saloon, The Birdcage Theater, Goodenough Silver Mine, Wyatt Earp's Oriental Saloon, and even the world’s first target-shooting zipline with laser pistols. Or saddle up at Tombstone Monument Ranch, which leads trail rides past railroad trestles and prehistoric petroglyphs. Guests then snuggle up in its faux old-timey town, where theme rooms include a jail.
Courtesy of Tombstone Monument Ranch
Above: Tombstone Monument Ranch
Left: The O.K. Corral
Pete Gregoire [ SPONSORED CONTENT }
TUBAC
THE PLACE WHERE ART AND HISTORY MEET
VILLAGE OF TUBAC, AZ
TUBACAZ.COM
Nestled in the high Sonoran Desert just 45 minutes south of Tucson, discover the place where art and history meet: Tubac.
As the two-time recipient of the Best Small Town Arts Scene in USA Today 10 Best Readers’ Choice Awards, Tubac’s reputation as a premier arts destination spans the world over. Find one-of-akind treasures, such as fine art, jewelry, mesquite furniture, pottery, sculptures, and rugs at celebrated shops and galleries, including Cobalt Fine Arts, Old Presidio Traders, The Country Shop, Clay Hands, Hal Empie Gallery, Tubac Old World Imports, and Lone Mountain Turquoise Company.
Immerse yourself in the town’s storied past at the Tubac Presidio State Historic Park and Museum, Arizona’s first state park and the home of the first European settlement in Arizona. Step back in time while walking the nearly 275-year-old Juan Bautista de Anza National Historic Trail to Tumacacori National Historical Park, the site of Arizona’s oldest Spanish mission and an International Dark Sky Park.
As day fades to night, indulge in Southwestern fare at Tubac’s most celebrated restaurants, such as Elvira’s and The Italian Peasant, and El Barrio Kitchen all while experiencing the magic of fireflies dancing in the air. Then, lay your head to rest with lodging options ranging from bed and breakfasts and quaint inns to the AAA Four Diamond Tubac Golf Resort & Spa, a member of the Historic Hotels of America.
No matter what time of year you visit, be it during an event like the February Tubac Festival of the Arts or Luminaria Nights, you will leave feeling restored, enlightened, and excited to return. So why wait? Begin planning your trip to the walking Village of Tubac, where art and history meet.