VISITVortex Hudson Valley Summer 2023

Rhinebeck | Hudson | Hopewell Junction | Tannersville | Red Hook | Pleasant Valley | High Falls

All Roads Lead to The Plaza

visit vortex

our mission is to help stimulate the local economy by promoting and introducing the faces behind independently owned businesses and organizations.

VISITvortex is a celebration of each season and a portal to the great people and places of the Hudson Valley. Sharing the very best of local.

Jesse Marcus

Melissa Hewitt

Jane Anderson

Melissa Hewitt, Melissa Orozco

Jesse Marcus, Alisha Dingee

Melissa Orozco

Rachel Collet

Erik Dungan

Anne Pyburn Craig

if you’d like to advertise in this quarterly magazine or on the website, please call us at 845-687-3470. ©2023 visitvortex

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summertime fun Entertainment

by anne pyburn craig

There’s absolutely nothing like summertime in the Hudson Valley. Like art? Fine wine? Fruit? Horses? Car racing? Want to bring the kiddos to pet a goat or drink award-winning whiskeys? With our

suggestions, you can do something different and amazing every weekend all summer long; to do it all, you’ll need to add on a few midweek excursions. Adventures and warm welcomes guaranteed.

ACCORD SPEEDWAY

Old-school dirt-track auto racing happens here every Friday night, all summer long. There’s a snack bar, beer and hard seltzer; wear sunglasses and maybe a hat (things get dusty) and pick favorites to cheer for among the competitors putting pedals to the metal in seven racing divisions. Bring a bandana and maybe even earplugs and get ready for a good ol’ time.

299 Whitfield Road, Accord

845-626-1494, accordspeedway.com

BAILIWICK ANIMAL PARK AND STABLES

Located on 300 acres in Catskill, Bailiwick was founded as a riding stable in 1963 and remains family-run. Guided mountain trail rides for every level of rider, pony rides, and a 40-acre animal park with over 30 domestic and exotic critters—from cuddly bunnies to Bengal tigers—are available on a drop-in basis; to take a riding lesson, play paintball on the five-acre wooded field, or camp, you need a reservation.

118 Castle Road, Catskill

518-678-5665, bailiwickranch.com

BROOKLYN CIDER HOUSE

Created by an inspired brother/sister team, this cidery has revitalized a vintage Hudson Valley orchard and added a farm stand, tasting room, and pavilion. Live music happens every Saturday afternoon; you can nosh on wood-fired pizza, burgers, and small bites, and wash it down with award-winning cider made using their own apples and wild yeast for a flavor that’s pure Hudson Valley.

155 N Ohioville Road, New Paltz

845-633-8657, brooklynciderhouse.com

EMERSON KALEIDOSCOPE

Created in a former grain silo, the Kaleidoscope offers a unique visual and auditory experience. It was once named World’s Largest by the Guinness folks (in 1997). This July will see the debut of a brand-new, flower-themed Kaleidoshow: a story told through music and fascinating fractals. Since it’s located at the Emerson Resort and Spa, you can shop, eat, and get a facial or massage without getting back in the car.

5340 NY-28, Mt Tremper, 845-688-5800 emersonresort.com/worlds-largest-kaleidoscope

HISTORIC HUGUENOT STREET

A 10-acre living history museum on the oldest street in the US to retain its original houses, HHS tells the stories of the Huguenot families who were the first New Paltz settlers, alongside the stories of the indigenous folks and African American slaves whose lives intersected with theirs. There are seven historic stonehouse museums, a reconstructed 1717 French church, the Huguenot community’s original burying ground, and a replica Esopus Munsee wigwam.

81 Huguenot St, New Paltz 845-255-1660, huguenotstreet.org

HUDSON DISTILLERY & GRISTMILL

The 230-year-old Tuthilltown Gristmill got a fresh blast of historic relevance in the early 2000s, when a man named Ralph Erenzo fought to establish New York’s farm distillery law and brewed up the state’s first (legal) batch since Prohibition. Take the tour, taste some Hudson Four Grain Single Barrel, Half Moon Gin, or Apple Vodka (or try them crafted into cocktails at the bar) and explore the glorious meadows and walking trails beside the Shawangunk Kill.

14 Grist Mill Lane, Gardiner 845-419-2964, hudsonwhiskey.com/en-US/distillery

HUDSON RIVER MARITIME MUSEUM

The Maritime Museum is packed with exhibits that speak to the river’s industrial, maritime, and ecological history and offers classes in wooden boat building, sailing, and rowing. You can also take a wide variety of themed tours aboard the Solaris, a 100 percent solar-powered craft, from educational expeditions focused on indigenous history, shipwrecks, lighthouses, and industrial history to sunset and wine-tasting jaunts focused on sheer fun.

50 Rondout Landing, Kingston

845-338-0071, hrmm.org

KAETE BRITTIN SHAW

This showroom and exhibition space features functional cast porcelain tableware and vases, hand-built porcelain vases, platters, lanterns, and cups, and mixed media works that combine handbuilt porcelain with river wood from the Rondout Creek, as well as an array of outdoor sculpture. Shaw’s works have been exhibited all over the US and featured in magazines since the 1970s.

1415 Route 213, High Falls

845-687-7828, kaetebrittinshaw.com

KELDER’S FARM

With over 30 attractions, Kelder’s takes agri-tainment to the next level, starting with Chomsky the World’s Largest Gnome. There’s a farmstand and pick-yourown opportunities, hayrides, food in the Pizza Barn and adult refreshment at the Loading Dock Tap Room, and much more: a Candy Cannon and an Apple Cannon, a Fishing Pond, a Petting Zoo, and all manner of things to jump and bounce on, climb up, slide down, and marvel at that your younguns will delight in for hours.

5755 U.S. Route 209, Kerhonkson

845-626-7137, keldersfarm.com

SHADOWLAND STAGES

Shadowland Stages is a renovated art deco theater showing professional productions of contemporary plays & musicals. It was started in 1985 by a collective of actors from NYC who moved to Ellenville and started producing theatre in a former vaudeville era space on the main street in town. In addition to its mainstage summer season, the theatre offers year-round programming and educational opportunities in their newly renovated, air-conditioned, historic venue.

157 Canal St, Ellenville

845-647-5511, shadowlandstages.org

MAGIC HILL

This wonderland of Midcentury goodies—vintage furniture, home decor, lighting, fashion and art—is a great place to browse and snack, a micro-department-store that features a juice bar and coffee shop. Upstairs, and open by appointment, is a gallery featuring impressionist works by co-owner Bruce Mishell.

328 Wall Street, Kingston 917-539-8057, magichillmercantile.com

OPUS 40

Dubbed “one of the largest and most beguiling works of art on the entire continent” by Architectural Digest and nicknamed the “Stonehenge of America,” the core of Opus 40 is a seven-acre sculpture created around and on a bluestone quarry by the multi-talented Harvey Fite. Come explore his megalithic magnum Opus, marvel at his works, and bring a picnic; besides the stone masterwork, there are various other sculptures and a small indoor gallery on the 63-acre site.

356 George Sickle Road, Saugerties

845-246-3400, opus40.org

PINKWATER GALLERY

An extraordinarily warm and welcoming gallery featuring a collective of contemporary women artists living and working in the Hudson Valley and Catskills, Pinkwater installs a new show every other month in which the gallery welcomes a guest artist, whose work is shown “in conversation” with the work of the collective’s artists.

56 North Front Street, Kingston pinkwatergallery.com

PROSPECT HILL ORCHARDS

Prospect Hill is a seventh-generation family farm that’s been running a pick-your-own operation since 1982. In summer, you can gather peaches, apricots, plums, and nectarines (cherries end July 4, and apples and pears start in mid-September). They’ll even lend you a ladder. Simple Earth Cuisine’s Full Moon Dinners happen here each month; reserve early.

340 Milton Turnpike, Milton 845-795-0001, prospecthillorchards.com

RAIL EXPLORERS

Steel wheels on steel rails make for a smooth, easy pedal that’s free of obstructions and traffic; plus, there’s no need to steer, so you’re free to soak up the view.

Rail Explorers’ Catskills Division offers an 8-mile, round-trip excursion along the Esopus Creek, on the tracks of the historic Ulster and Delaware Railroad. Rail Explorers’ Cooperstown Division offers two choices: the 12-mile Milford Track, or the 8-mile Charlotte Valley Express.

Catskills, Cooperstown

877-833-8588, railexplorers.net

SHAWANGUNK WINE TRAIL

There’s nothing like some mighty fine wine to bring joy to the world. The 13 wineries on this trail offer fine wine indeed, all of it served up for the tasting amid some of the finest scenery on this earth, in settings as unique as the wonderful vintners who create them. Ten transportation partners offer options that mean you can tour without having to draw straws for designated drivers.

845-256-8456

shawangunkwinetrail.com

STONE WINDOW GALLERY

Come marvel at handmade pottery by Brinton P. Baker, offered in his gallery that has been a cornerstone in Accord for over three decades. Elegant square plates, faceted mugs, and unique pieces abound, plus custom ceramics. Baker describes some of his work as “organic forms that look like Dr. Seuss went to Japan,” where he apprenticed with ceramicist Koichi Yamamoto for four and a half years.

17 Main Street, Accord

845-626-4932, facebook.com/StoneWindowGallery

WOODSTOCK BYRDCLIFFE GUILD

Byrdcliffe was the seed, planted in 1902, that sparked Woodstock’s growth into a famous art colony. The permanent collection includes nearly 200 examples of Arts and Crafts furniture, decorative arts, and two-dimensional works created during the Guild’s early-20th-century golden age; summer 2023 installations are “SELF: Portraits and Places” (through August 6) followed by “Here Now: Contemporary Photographers of the Hudson Valley.”

34 Tinker Street, Woodstock

845-679-2079, woodstockguild.org

WOODSTOCK GOLF CLUB

Join the club and experience this scenic jewel of a course, frequented by artists since 1929, along with streamside dining on the Sawkill Creek (the public is welcome) and professional-grade pro shop. This is the home of the nation’s longest-running golf tournament, the Woodstock Open. The founders of what was once called the Woodstock Country Club envisioned something exclusive and upscale. The artists prevailed, and the results are inclusive and fabulous.

114 Mill Hill Road, Woodstock

845-679-0432, woodstockgolf.com

WOODSTOCK MUSEUM

What better place to understand the seminal, dramatic time that was the 1960s than at the Bethel Woods Center for the Arts, site of the 1969 Woodstock music festival? There’s a permanent multimedia exhibit that tells the core story; the special exhibit for 2023, “The Place Where Peace Happened,” digs deep into the skills and tactics that made it possible for Wavy Gravy to exclaim, “We’re all feeding each other!” as a crowd of nearly half a million enjoyed four days of peace, love, and music.

200 Hurd Road, Bethel

bethelwoodscenter.org/museum

WOODSTOCK SCHOOL OF ART

Built and begun under FDR’s New Deal, this campus was leased by the New York City Art Students’ League in 1947 and became official headquarters for the WSA in 1980; pretty much throughout, it’s been run by artists for artists. You can study sketching, drawing, painting, printmaking, sculpture, and more in climate-controlled buildings with top-flight instructors, or just stop by to soak in this summer’s Instructors Exhibition of works by school faculty.

2470 Route 212, Woodstock

845-679-2388, woodstockschoolofart.org

meals and countless activities included in your rate, you’ll feel your stresses melt away.

Listen as music from a boat dock concert echoes across the water. Rejuvenate with a massage in our outdoor Lakeview Summerhouse. Rock scramble through the famous Labyrinth and Lemon Squeeze to a view you’ll never forget. Dive into Lake Mohonk, or feel the summer breeze from a stand-up paddleboard. All this, plus the highlights of a classic summer, with beach time, barbecue, and campfires under the stars. With

Enjoy Nature’s Beauty at Mohonk Preserve

Experience great hiking, running, biking, climbing, and birding. Explore nature on our carriage roads and trails. For information on trailhead access, day-use fees and memberships, visit mohonkpreserve.org. Memberships and day passes are available for purchase at our trailheads.

Photo: Magnolia Warbler by Karen Maloy Brady

Outdoors

explore the gunks

Shawangunk

Ridge.

Photo by Ruth Peterkin.

Fifty miles from end to end and over 2,000 feet high at its peak, the Shawangunk Ridge is the jewel in our crown, running alongside the Hudson Valley through four counties from the Catskills down to New Jersey. Sculpted by nature back in the Ice Age, its unique ecosystem rests on its very own kind of rock: Shawangunk Conglomerate, a sedimentary mix of sandstone and white quartz bound together by silica.

The Shawangunks (either a full pronunciation with soft vowels or “Shongum” is acceptable; once you’ve met them in person, you can go with “the Gunks” like the rest of us) contain multitudes of wonders. Swamps of several sorts, blueberries, ruins, subtly sparkling boulders that look tossed by giants at play. Dwarf pines twisted into natural bonsai. Five sky lakes clear as the air.

According to the New York Natural Heritage Program, there’s more biodiversity here than anywhere else in the state, including three globally rare ecological communities. The Ridge is our icon, and locals have fought fiercely for its preservation, turning away a proposed Marriott Hotel in the ’80s and a proposed housing development in the early 2000s; of its 50,000 acres, about 40,000 are now protected land.

In 1869, a man named Albert Smiley purchased a 10-room

Sam’s Point Preserve.

Photo by Diana Richards.

inn, Stokes Tavern, and crafted the sprawling, stunning Mohonk Mountain House, our very own local castle. Albert had been the principal of a Quaker boarding school; it was his theory that beauty and isolation did humans a lot of good, and starting in 1895, he gathered great minds of the day together to discuss issues like world peace and fair treatment of indigenous folks, starting a tradition that continues to this day in the form of the nonprofit Mohonk Consultations.

Mohonk’s land preservation branch, the Preserve, protects about 8,000 acres beyond the 1,200 acres where the hotel sits. Albert’s twin brother, Alfred, purchased 2,200 acres of the ridge and started two more hotels, the Cliff House and Wildmere, beside “Coxing Pond,” which he rebranded as Lake Minnewaska. He’d later buy another 6,725 acres around Lake Awosting. It was Alfred’s property that would eventually become Minnewaska State Park Preserve, which now covers over 24,000 acres.

The Shawangunk Ridge

(loving called The Gunks) is the jewel in our crown, running alongside the Hudson Valley through four counties.

Mohonk Mountain House.

Photo by Ruth Peterkin.

Lake Awosting, Minnewaska State Park.

Photo by Yiwen Hang.

This is but the tip of the glacier. For some fascinating and granular Shawangunk Ridge history, check out the works of Marc B. Fried, an intrepid explorer who’s written several meticulously researched books on the subject that can be found within the local library system.

exploring the ridge

Thanks to the awesome glaciers that carved it out and to the foresight of the Smileys, the Ridge was never thickly settled or industrialized. A little logging, a little mining, and some berry-harvesting happened, without leaving much of a lasting mark.

But the Smileys did want their guests to get out into the woods and enjoy, and to that end, they con -

structed a system of carriage roads and footpaths. Within Minnewaska State Park are 35 miles of carriage roads and 50 miles of footpaths. The Mohonk Preserve cares for 70 miles of carriage roads and trails. Built to accommodate horses and buggies, the carriage roads are wide and mostly gentle, great for family hiking and biking; distance runners from all over the world come here to train on them. The foot trails are another story; some of them get wild enough to satisfy anyone’s thirst for adventure, and some of the world’s finest bouldering and technical climbing opportunities can be found here.

From

Sam’s Point at the state

park’s southern tip, where you’ll find the astonishingly cool (sorry!) Ice Caves and stunning Catskills views, to the

According to the New York Natural Heritage Program, there’s more biodiversity here than anywhere else in the state.

Split Rock at Mohonk Preserve.

Photo by Angelo Marcialis

High Point, Shawangunk Ridge.

Photo by Ultima Gaina.

Mohonk Preserve Visitor’s Center, where you can learn all about the ecosystem and the work of the Preserve’s Daniel Smiley Research Center, this part of the Gunks offers a vast array of choose-your-own-adventure summer fun. Mohonk Preserve offers five ma -

jor trailheads, and Minnewaska State Park Preserve has two major parking lots off Route 44/55 and another at Sam’s Point. All fill up quickly on prime summer weekends, so get here early. There’s really no better place to greet the morning anyway.

shawangunk ridge resources

MOHONK PRESERVE VISITOR CENTER

3197 State Route 44/55, Gardiner, 845-255-0919, mohonkpreserve.org

A great starting point where you’ll find maps and information along with a Sensory Trail, a Children’s Forest and a Butterfly Garden, along with exhibits, activities, and Tripod the Rescue Turtle.

MINNEWASKA STATE PARK PRESERVE

5281 Route 44-55, Kerhonkson, 845-255-0752

SAM’S POINT AREA

400 Sam’s Point Road, Cragsmoor

Weekend and holiday parking by reservation only; call 1-800-456-2267.

SHAWANGUNK MOUNTAINS REGION

New York/New Jersey Trail Conference

nynjtc.org/region/shawangunk-mountains-region

Sky Top Tower, Mohonk Preserve.

Photo by Scott Heaney.

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tips to maximize hiking fun Outdoors

by anne pyburn craig

Excited about hitting the trails this summer?

As with so many things in life, the right preparation is key.

Hiking is, hands down, one of the best activities out there: healthy for mind and body alike, offering near-infinite variety, and containing vast opportunity for bonding with family, friends, dogs, and miscellaneous higher powers of all descriptions.

Excited about hitting the trails this summer? As with so many things in life, the right preparation is key. We want you to come home from every excursion happy (if exhausted), having had the best day ever and eager for next time. To that end, read on to learn what you need to know.

We’d be remiss to not offer thanks to Trailkeeper, a fabulous source of outdoor guidance, and especially to Sullivan County Trailkeeper for equipment tips.

HIKING EQUIPMENT

Heading onto the trail in cutoffs and flip flops is a recipe for mosquito bites, sore feet, and sunburn. You don’t need to outfit like an Alpine climber to have a lot of fun in the Catskills and the Hudson Valley, but you do need a few good basics to ensure comfort, health, and safety.

You don’t need to outfit like an Alpine climber to have a lot of fun in the Catskills and the Hudson Valley, but you do need a few good basics to ensure comfort, health, and safety.

BOOTS

Happy feet make for happy hikes. To get the right boots, consider what kind of trails you want to conquer and what matters most to you. Materials matter. Leather is sturdy, heavy, and somewhat water-resistant. It does take longer to break in, so don’t attempt a 10-mile mountain expedition the first day you wear them. Synthetics break in faster, are lighter, and usually cost less. You may find they wear out faster, so it depends on your priorities.

Unless wading is a big part of the plan (and wading can be wonderful!) don’t try to go waterproof. It’s also air-proof, meaning your feet will get hot and sweaty on dry land. For shorter, easier hikes, you’ll want a low or mid-rise boot. If you’re heading up a serious mountain or planning to bushwhack through brush, mid or high is the way to go for better ankle support and greater protection.

Make sure the fit is perfect, keeping your foot right where it belongs—having your toes bumping into the front of your boot, your heel sliding around, or a pinchy place may seem like no big deal in the store, but it’ll become a very big deal indeed after the first couple of miles. Wear your hiking socks to try them on, and take a good little walk around the store, not three paces.

SOCKS

Avoid cotton. It traps moisture. Choose a good merino wool if you want organic fiber, or check out the nifty synthetics that are designed to wick moisture away from your skin.

CLOTHING

Most public places, even thickly forested ones, will take a dim view of hikers showing up in just boots and socks. The good news is, just about anything you own that’s comfy and warm or cool enough will be fine.

Layers are the key to all-weather comfort. In summer, that means an inner layer that wicks sweat away from your skin and a lightweight, but water- and wind-proof, outer layer in your pack in case it turns cool or rainy.

Long, loose, light-colored pants are great protection from scratchy brush and—more importantly—ticks. You can get the zip-apart kind and convert them to shorts when you’re out of the undergrowth.

ACCESSORIES

The lovely thing about hiking is how little you really need. A pack that will hold your lunch, water bottle, and windbreaker is really about it, although a lot of people like to carry a walking stick or trekking pole to help navigate rough terrain.

Choose the right size pack. Big camping ones will get annoyingly burdensome on a day hike. A smaller daypack should hold both the essentials mentioned above and a

journal, sketchbook, insect repellent, and sunscreen. Toss a whistle and a flashlight in there if there’s even a slight chance of getting lost, delayed, or injured. It’s a whole lot easier to blow a whistle for help than to yell over and over.

The shoulder straps of your pack should be padded and wide, not pinchy and cutting into you. Straps for your hips and/or chest will offer better weight distribution and comfort. Look for well-stitched seams, durable fabric, and at least a couple of outer pockets to keep, say, your water bottle in easy reach, plus an inner pocket that will keep things like keys and wallet orderly and secure.

Wear sunglasses and a sun hat: Your eyes and hair will thank you.

HIKING ETIQUETTE

The woods might be a lot less people-y than the sidewalks, but the people who are there deserve full consideration—as do the native critters and plants who are sharing their space with you. Mastering a few time-tested guidelines will make you a good citizen of the forest instead of the main character in someone else’s horror tale.

KNOW YOUR

RIGHT OF WAY RULES:

On multi-use trails, horses and bicycles have right of way. As on the road, keep to your right so people have room to pass on the left. People headed uphill have the right of way over those headed down. Give a polite word of warning if you’re about to pass someone who seems unaware of you; pay attention to those who need to pass you and grant them as much room as you can.

KEEP THE WOODS PEACEFUL: Talking quietly isn’t just a kindness to any other people and animals around, it also maximizes your chances of glimpsing wild critters. Put your cell phone on vibrate, or just turn it off. Skip the music, and listen to the birds and the breezes.

If you have a big group, all of this peaceful stuff will just be easier to maintain if you split up into smaller groups of three or four. Saying hi to people you encounter is basic good manners out here—so is warning them of an upcoming mud hole or downed tree. Besides making for a friendlier forest, this precaution means that you’ll remember having seen each other and can aid rescuers should any of you suffer misfortune.

…AND CLEAN: Tuck a bag into your backpack that you’ll use not just to pack out trash of your own, but to collect any trash you find. If you see major dumping or vandalism, report the location to whichever agency is in charge of the land you’re on.

MIND THE RULES: If fires or dogs aren’t allowed, leave the matches and the pup at home. If they say “no motorized vehicles,” they mean it. Don’t fish or hunt without a license or out of season; it’s unkind to wildlife, and if a ranger spots you, you will probably face arrest and a hefty fine.

If camping is part of the plan, make sure it’s allowed. If you’re wilderness camping, camp off the trail on a level, solid patch, and take care not to squish the vegetation. Keep your privy-hole (aka outdoor latrine) at least 100 feet away from streams or lakeshores.

MOST OF ALL, BE KIND TO EVERYTHING AND EVERYONE. Avoid any unnecessary breaking of branches or digging of holes, and don’t dam up the stream “for fun.” It might seem fun to you, but a lot less so to any reptiles, fish, or amphibians that are just trying to raise families there.

If you’re given a chance to help another hiker, take it. Know the trail and share your info, even your food and water if someone’s in a bad way. We’re all guests of Mama Nature in these fine forests—make sure that, if she had a voice, she’d be inviting you to come back anytime.

Clove Cottages

Outdoors

places to dip your toes

(

and dunk your body )

by anne pyburn craig

There’s nothing as refreshing as leaping into the water when the weather’s hot, whether you bring a picnic and a sunbrella and set up camp for hours or just stop

off for a quick, cooling dip after a hike or a shopping spree. The Hudson Valley offers tons of places to splash—and we’re sharing some of our favorites. Wilcoz Memorial Beach. Image from seeswim.com

Even if there’s a lifeguard there, play it safe: Don’t jump or dive in unless you’re certain of the depth, and watch your footing on slippery surfaces.

We’re listing only spots that have infrastructure set up for public swimming, such as restrooms where you can get changed. Other places may look tempting, but you can run afoul of irate property owners or park rangers, which can sour a lovely afternoon pretty quickly. And public swim spots have been vetted thoroughly for hazards. Nonetheless, even if there’s a lifeguard there, play it safe: Don’t jump or dive in unless you’re certain of the depth, and watch your footing on slippery surfaces.

Etiquette at public swim spots is pretty much what you’d expect. Keep the dog (if permitted)

leashed. Don’t crowd anybody, don’t splash anybody, and if smoking is permitted (it usually isn’t) and you wish to indulge, make sure no one is downwind and that no kids are watching. If you must have music, headphones are a good idea, or set up away from the crowd and keep the volume under 5-ish. And always, always carry out what you carry in.

All you really need is your towel and a cold beverage, but it’s kinda fun to bring a diving mask and explore the depths. Don’t worry, there’s nothing down there in the river or the lake that will mistake you for a snack.

A NOTE ABOUT POOLS

There exists a long list (too long to publish here) of towns, and several counties, that maintain lovely public pools for residents and neighbors. Check with your local government and they’ll steer you to the closest one; some offer day passes and others require seasonal membership. Taxpayer-funded pools need to accommodate taxpayer priorities; hours and days of general admission are often subject to the needs of swim lessons for kids, lap swimming for seniors, and swim team meets. Always call ahead and verify the hours before you jump in the car.

For those of us who like our water with a smidgen less chlorine, here’s a list of wonderful, pretty places where you can cool your heels (and the rest of you) in fresh, natural water: Many also offer campsites, nature programs for kids, and a plethora of other recreational possibilities.

LAKE SWIMMING

WEST OF THE HUDSON: Bear Spring Mountain Park in Downsville allows day guests to use its campground’s sandy swimming beach and nearby picnic area with tables and grills, and there’s a bathhouse for changing. The beach isn’t guarded, so please swim only in the marked area, and abide by the leaflet of safety rules you’ll be given when you arrive.

Little Pond, located in Andes, is a 13-acre lake with camping and day use areas. There’s a picnic area with tables and grills, an accessible pavilion and restrooms (there’s an accessible path to the sandy beach, too), and rowboat, paddle boat, kayak, and canoe rentals. Here, too, you’ll find no lifeguard but you’ll be given a list of safety rules.

Little Pond

Mongaup Pond in Livingston Manor, at 120 acres, is the largest body of water in the Catskill Forest Preserve that isn’t a reservoir for New York City. (Can’t swim in those.) The beach is open for swimming when lifeguards are on duty, so you’ll want to call ahead to get the hours right. Like Bear Spring and Little Pond, Mongaup offers robust DEC amenities: access for the disabled, restrooms with flush toilets and showers, a picnic area with tables and grills, and you can rent rowboats and canoes.

North South Lake in Haines Falls offers a designated swimming beach that’s open during lifeguard hours. Besides the picnic areas (there are two), flush toilets, and hot showers, you’ll find a playground and rowboat, canoe, kayak, and paddle boat rentals; and there’s a nifty short hike to a glorious view. Good access for folks with disabilities.

Minnewaska State Park Preserve is a gem in the heart of the Shawangunks; an easy trail around the lake offers gorgeous views, so consider taking it eastward (hang a left from the parking lot) and you can savor this with the reward of a refreshing dip at the end. You can swim or scuba dive, or do some bouldering between dips. Dogs aren’t welcome on the small sandy beach, but leashed ones can explore the trails with you.

Belleayre Beach in Pine Hill has a two-rope system; when no lifeguard’s on duty, you’re asked to stay within the first rope. There’s boating, kayaking, stand-up paddleboarding, picnicking, horseshoe pits, volleyball, and fishing here, too; you can buy a season pass and make this your summertime base of operations. Check the calendar for craft activities.

Mongaup Pond

North South Lake

Photo courtesy of greatwesterncatskills.com

Minnewaska State Park

Belleayre Beach

EAST OF THE HUDSON:

Canopus Lake at Clarence Fahnestock State Park in Carmel offers a wide, flat, sandy beach against a gorgeous backdrop. The parking lot fills up quickly on beautiful days, so get here early; there are rowboats to rent and shady picnic groves, and the 14,000-acre state park full of trails to explore.

Harriman State Park in Sloatsburg has two beaches among its 31 lakes, so you can pick a favorite or alternate your scenery while you explore 200 miles of hiking trails, two public camping areas, miles of streams, and much more.

Rudd Pond and Copake Falls, both in Taconic State Park, are sandy beaches with clear water swimming, fishing, boat rentals, and the full array of state park recreational options including fascinating trail networks along the Taconic Mountain Range with a wide variety of terrain and spectacular viewsheds.

There’s nothing as refreshing as leaping into the water when the weather’s hot.

Canopus Lake

Harriman State Park

Photo courtesy of seeswim.com

Photo courtesy of seeswim.com

Rudd Pond

Wilcox Memorial Park in Stanfordville features two small refreshing lakes surrounded by a sandy beach set within 614 acres of rolling hills, serene woodlands, and open fields. There are restrooms with hot showers, picnic tables and pavilions, boat rentals, and fishing along with athletic fields, a playground, nature trails, and a disc-golf course in case you want to get heated up before you jump in and cool down.

Lake Taghkanic State Park, located in Ancram, offers swimming in a gem of a lake amid lush forests and rolling hills. There are hot showers and hiking, fishing, biking, picnicking, playgrounds, and rowboat and paddleboat rentals.

RIVER DIPPING

Thanks to a wonderful human being named Pete Seeger, a determined bunch of fisherfolk, and their friends and admirers, the big, beautiful Hudson is a clean, safe place for a dip. Here are the spots:

Wilcox Memorial Park

Photo courtesy of seeswim.com

Lake Taghkanic State Park

Ulster Landing County Park

Photo courtesy of seeswim.com

WEST SHORE: Ulster Landing County Park – A sandy beachfront offering hiking trails, grills, a boat launch, playgrounds, lifeguards, and sports areas.

Kingston Point Beach, maintained by the City of Kingston, was once an amusement park where city residents spent many a happy weekend. It’s a good bit quieter now; though it still draws crowds on a hot day, there’s room for plenty of fun-seekers. You can swim or launch a kayak or canoe in this protected cove; note the water-smoothed chunks of red brick mixed with the sand, relics of this shoreline’s industrial past.

EAST SHORE: The River Pool in Beacon is a unique, kid-friendly enclosure that makes the river every bit as safe as a backyard pool. It’s also the home of the most serious river-swimmers of all; in August, there’s an organized swim from Newburgh to Beacon, escorted by kayaks. Last year, 143 swimmers made the crossing, raising funds to keep the Pool splashing.

Kingston Point Beach

River Pool

Croton Point Park

Croton Point Park is a 508-acre park peninsula on the east shore of the Hudson River offering year-round events and activities with facilities for camping, hiking, and swimming. Open weekends and holidays only beginning Memorial Day weekend. 10am-6pm. Lifeguard on duty. Admission $8; $4 with Westchester County Park Pass. Croton Point Avenue, Croton-on-Hudson. 914-862-5290

MISCELLANEOUS MOISTURE: You can take a dip in the Esopus Creek at Saugerties Village Beach , where you’ll find a well-maintained sandy area, a dock to swim out to, and lifeguards watching over everyone from 10 am-6 pm. There’s a kayak/boat launch, a fishing area, and restrooms.

SplashDown Beach in Fishkill bills itself as “America’s Biggest Little Water Park” and has a Travelers’ Choice “Best of the Best” award to prove it. Spend the day enjoying 14 attractions ranging from a tot-friendly “Shipwreck Lagoon” to zero-gravity half-pipes and four-story-high slides for the thrill-seekers among us.

Photo by Nancy Campbell

Saugerties Village Beach

SplashDown Beach

Outdoors

fly - fishing in the western catskills

by anne pyburn craig

When people who love the meditative outdoor art of flyfishing talk about the streams and lakes of the Western Catskills, you can hear the reverence in their voices.

Part of that is because the area is the birthplace of American dry-fly fishing: the art of casting “flies” created from feathers and animal hair to imitate insects that fish like to eat. A writer named Theodore Gordon, originally from Pittsburgh, discovered the Sulli -

van County Cats in the late 19th century. An avid fisherman, Gordon had some flies sent to him by an English friend in 1890. He took to the waters of the Neversink and the Beaverkill, made a close study of what the fish there liked to eat, and customized the flies to suit their tastes. Later, he would craft his own, teaching himself the art of tying by studying The American Angler’s Book and corresponding with British experts.

Gordon died in 1915, a reclusive expert

on fish and bugs living in a house in Bradley, one of the communities that was flooded when the Neversink Reservoir was created. His articles in the Fishing Gazette and Forest and Stream opened up a whole new world of angling, and became the first chapters in a story that is still being written over 100 years later. Much has obviously changed since then, but the sparkling waters of the Catskills still offer what is universally considered some of the best fishing on the continent, especially when it comes to flies.

If you’ve never tried this kind of fishing, the art may seem a bit overwhelming at first. Don’t fret. There’s

a for-dummies guide out there, a vast array of YouTube vids, and—best of all—there are quite a few expert guides and outfitters in the area who can help you gain the confidence to, um, get your feet wet.

You’ll need a fly rod and fly reel (experts seem to agree that graphite rods and metal reels are best), and specialized fly line. The backing is a thick and often colorful line that fills your reel; the leader starts with a matching thickness and thins down to match the much thinner tippet, which is nearly invisible in the water. It’s possible to purchase a rod and reel combo that includes all of this, but talk to an expert first; sizes vary depending on the kind of fishing you plan to do.

The Western Catskills is the birthplace of American dryfly fishing: the art of casting “flies” created from feathers and animal hair to imitate insects that fish like to eat.

You’ll also want a net, a flyfishing vest that keeps you organized, waders for getting to the best spots, and polarizing sunglasses.

Next, you’ll need to master the poetry of the flyfishing cast. It’s a graceful move that allows you to propel an object that weighs next to nothing out onto the water’s surface, where it will entice a passing trout. The best way to learn the technique is by watching it done, and maybe getting a little expert coaching.

You’re ready! The waters of the Beaverkill, Willowemoc, Neversink, Delaware, and more await you, inhabited by plenty of brook, brown, and rainbow trout. You’ll find them in and around the towns of Livingston Manor, Roscoe, East Branch, Hancock, and Deposit.

Once you get the knack of the cast, be prepared to become addicted to this peaceful, artful sport, famed for its blend of Zenlike relaxation and visceral satisfaction.

Fly Fishing the Catskills, DEC handbook: dec.ny.gov/docs/fish_marine_pdf/ffthecatskills.pdf

Best Fly Fishing Spots in the Catskills: visitthecatskills.com/fly-fishing

The sparkling waters of the Catskills still offer what is universally considered some of the best fishing on the continent.

FALAFEL, SABICH, SALADS & MORE

by anne pyburn craig

Nothing compares to grilling over an open fire.

Camp stoves have their uses, especially if you just want to perk up a quick pot of coffee or heat some soup. But to truly enjoy the flavor of eating outdoors, nothing compares to grilling over an open fire.

These days, there are all kinds of tools available to make the experience simple and fool-proof, including nifty gadgets like tripods from which you can suspend cast-iron Dutch ovens, and South American Asado Crosses capable of supporting an entire lamb. But you don’t need a major investment to start cooking over the fire—a grill that fits your firepit, a cast-iron pan, tongs, gloves, and the ability to get a fire going are all you really need.

In some cases, you can even dispense with the grill. Every kid, and the kid in all of us, deserves the experience of impaling a hot dog or marshmallow on a sturdy green stick and holding it over the fire till it’s done to perfection. Even for this, there’s a knack to having the right sort of fire.

Lump charcoal is helpful here. If you’re using wood alone, you’ll want to build your fire up from kindling and twigs to larger hunks of seasoned hardwood that will burn hot for a while. For steady heat, coals are better than flames, so start your fire at least 45 minutes before you intend to start dinner and let it burn to a bed of glowing coals.

Not sure how to get a fire going? Location is key. You want to make sure your firespot has at least eight feet of clearance on all sides and above. (You do NOT want to accidentally melt a power line or singe a low branch.) Build a U-shaped perimeter from rocks or green wood; stand up a taller “chimney rock” at the farthest point of the U and it will channel the smoke up and away from your eyes.

You’ll first need tinder: dry grass, wood shavings, or crumpled-up paper. Make a small, loose ball of tinder and then construct a sort of conical “tipi” around it from small dry twigs, known as kindling in this context. (A loose grid shape works too. Just make sure your burnables are loosely packed enough to allow air to flow.)

As the twigs catch, you simply add larger ones to the structure until it collapses into a blaze, then add some larger hunks, preferably oak, ash or hickory. In 45 minutes to an hour, you’ll have a glorious bed of hot coals. Using a poker of some sort (a green stick works; so does almost

anything clean that won’t burn), push the coals together toward the back of the U, leaving a lower pile toward the front. Presto! You now have high, medium, and low heat zones. Place your grill on the rocks, making sure it’s flat and will hold steady. You’re all set to cook some exceptionally delicious treats.

Steaks, chops, chicken pieces, and burgers are simple. Just pop ‘em on the grill. It’s a good idea to have a spray bottle handy in case the dripping juices create rogue flames. Veggies can be pre-seasoned and wrapped in foil for grilling. Whole potatoes can be wrapped in foil and cooked directly on the coals. So can corn on the cob, or you can leave the husks on (eliminating a rather bothersome prep task) and soak in water for half an hour, then throw your ears directly onto the grill.

For things that need more containment, cast iron is best, and a long-handled spoon is essential. Digital meat thermometers take the guesswork out of doneness. Kebab skewers are wonderful—

A grill that fits your firepit, a cast-iron pan, tongs, gloves, and the ability to get a fire going are all you really need. load ‘em up with shrimp, chunks of marinated meat, or your favorite veggies.

Cooking over an open fire is a mindful process. You’ll want to make sure the heat stays even, banking the coals as they wane to keep the heat focused where

you need it. Even heat distribution is more important when you’re baking over an open fire, which is entirely possible using a cast-iron muffin pan or Dutch oven. (For baking, you may want to do your measuring and mixing indoors and bring your pan of batter out when it’s set to go.)

Now for the best part: Pile the cooked goodies on a platter, use the tongs to remove the grill (you can lean it on your chimney rock if you want) and toss on a couple of logs to convert to evening campfire mode while you’re feasting. Bon appetit!

Local Eatery

asia , stone ridge

by anne pyburn craig photos by rachel collet

If you haven’t been to Asia yet, you’re missing out on something very special. No, we don’t mean you need to renew your passport and save up for a flight—although if you have the resources to do so, we hear there is much there that will amaze and delight. We’re talking about Asia Stone Ridge, where owner Michelle Aw and her team will pamper you with fresh, clean flavors that are an experience in themselves—right here in the middle of Ulster County.

Aw grew up in the small town of Kampong Langkap in Malaysia, where her grandparents relocated after migrating from China. She went to college in Malaysia and mastered accounting, which was her first U.S. job title when she arrived in Queens, NY—but it wasn’t long before Aw found her way up the Hudson and began focusing on food.

Her first venture, the Kingston Wok, is still serving well-loved Asian Fusion fare on Ulster Avenue. And

At Asia Stone Ridge, owner Michelle Aw and her team will pamper you with fresh, clean flavors that are an experience in themselves— right here in the middle of Ulster County.

when the cozy building just off Main Street that had been the French Corner came up for sale, Aw and her partner opened her dream spot, calling it simply Asia.

The pan-Asian bistro is true to Aw’s ideals, offering familiar Chinese classics, sushi, sashimi, Thai,

and Japanese delicacies along with a full bar. There are vegetarian dishes, gluten-free options, and “Revolution Diet” dishes prepared without oil or cornstarch. There are a dozen cooked and half-a-dozen raw varieties of Maki rolls (hand-rolled is an option) and another 14 choices of House

Special rolls: from the Golden Sweet Potato Tempura Avocado Roll to the Out of Control Roll (spicy tuna mango roll; topped with salmon and avocado, honey lemon sauce, and red tobiko).

There’s a Malaysia Beef Rendering, a beef stew slow-cooked

“We just want to keep on doing what people love. We want everyone to leave happy.”

– Asia Owner Michelle Aw

with coconut curry over vegetables. And while there may be somewhere else in the Hudson Valley to eat Unagi-Don—broiled smoked eel over rice—we’re not sure where that is, and we can’t imagine it’s any better. Service is superb, with a laid-back, on-point vibe that makes each guest feel special and welcome.

Asia serves a level of cuisine that you’d be lucky to find in a much larger city, much less a stone’s throw from Main Street in Stone Ridge. “This is a staple for us,” writes reviewer Rhonda284 on TripAdvisor, in a review entitled “Surpasses Chinese food in NYC.” “Food is consistently great. Love the wonton soup, roast pork wonton noodle soup, chicken with string beans or black bean sauce, anything in garlic sauce, and every Chinese dish we’ve had there! Can’t find Chinese food like this in our neighborhood in Manhattan!!!! Also, the staff is amazing, and make you feel at home.” Other reviewers proclaim the sushi excellent and note that the Pad Thai has a “subtle zip.”

When Asia shut down for a time during the pandemic, locals collectively held their breath, but it wasn’t long before Aw was back up and running.

Stone Ridge, she says, reminds her ever so slightly of Langkap—much is different, but both towns are tightknit and loving, and she’s happy to have found a niche here, where people deeply appreciate the authenticity she quite literally brings to the table.

“We just want to keep on doing what people love,” she says. “We want everyone to leave happy.”

It’s working. “What an absolute great surprise!” writes another visitor from Manhattan, this one a Yelper. “I had the best General Tso’s chicken ever at this place. You know when you order this at most Chinese restaurants you get a lot of batter and a bit of chicken... Just the opposite here. Tasted fresh, was really wonderful.” So until such time as we can arrange a tour of the Eastern hemisphere, and probably forever, we’ll just be deeply grateful that Michelle Aw has brought Asia to us.

Photo: Forged in the North

Local Eatery

high falls cafe

Whenyou’re lucky enough to know where to find a great pub, life’s just better. Topnotch eats and drinks are part of the recipe, but then there’s that secret sauce: the warm vibes of a community living room, where you’re likely to run into favorite neighbors and make new friends just by pulling up a stool at the bar. Season liberally with great live music, and you’ve got that rare gem of a spot that makes a blah day better and a good evening

fabulous, satisfying your hunger on levels that transcend food.

Such a place is the High Falls Cafe, and it’s been that way ever since Buffy and Brian Gribbon nurtured what began as a groovy little breakfast and lunch spot in the center of that hamlet (which has long carried the sorta-tongue-in-cheek nickname of Center of the Universe) back in 2005. From its earliest days, the place has had that charismatic

by anne pyburn craig photos by rachel collet

now in n . marbletown

The High Falls Cafe has been a rare gem ever since Buffy and Brian Gribbon nurtured what began as a groovy little breakfast and lunch spot in the center of that hamlet.

chemistry, partly in the kitchen—where Brian’s Culinary Institute of America degree and use of the best fresh local flavors come into play—and partly at the bar, where Buffy’s sense of humor and deeply genuine warmth brew positive vibrations.

Not long after they started doing the breakfast and lunch riff, complete with eight varieties of Eggs Benedict and Brian’s stellar Hollandaise sauce, they became aware that the Center of the Universe had a black hole of sorts where the nightlife ought to be. People wanted a place to gather in the evening without having to go out of town, so the Gribbons instituted dinner service followed by live bands and dancing. Soon, High Falls locals and folks from far and wide were coming out to the big little Cafe not just to relish Brian’s breakfasts, burgers, and pasta, but to spend a fabulous Saturday night.

After 11 years in a second location, the place that makes so many people feel at home finally has a forever home of its own—out on Route 209 in North Marbletown in the former Marbletown Inn.

After just a few years in their first location, the Cafe had to relocate deeper into the forest, moving to Stone Dock Road. To everyone’s delight, they’d developed a loyal following that didn’t mind driving a little farther to keep the party going. “A lot of people thought we’d closed,” says Buffy Gribbon. “And it took a couple of years to get established out there, but once we did, it was a really happy place for us.”

Now, after 11 years in that second location, the place that makes so many people feel at home finally has a forever home of its own—out on Route 209 in North Marbletown in the former Marbletown Inn. After a triumphant farewell to the Stone Dock spot over New Year’s weekend, the Gribbons set about renovating their new location’s interior and had the doors open for a soft-opening celebration by March 1.

“Every night’s been amazing, and St. Patrick’s weekend was just mind-blowing,” says Gribbon. “That was the first night we did our full live music thing—we wanted to work the kinks out a little first. We ripped some stuff out and turned the space into one big room with a big wraparound horseshoe-shaped bar, and our musicians chipped in and bought us a great sound system. And everyone has just been so happy for us. All the credit

goes to our friends and regulars—everybody’s helped us so much.”

It’s the kind of loyalty that can’t be faked, only earned—and the Gribbons have nurtured it for years, holding youth sports banquets, donating to good causes, helping keep everyone fed by working with Ulster County’s Project Resilience during the pandemic. Gribbon volunteers with Rondout Valley High School’s WISE (Individualized Senior Experience) program, even now that their own kids have graduated. All of it has been the making of a vital and brilliant extended family—exactly what Buffy and Brian were hoping for when they relocated their young family from Mahwah, NJ to Ulster County back in 2002.

“Our kids are involved now, and they want this to continue,” says Gribbon. “So it becomes a legacy thing. Casey is 28 now,

and she manages the bar; Patrick is 25 and he doesn’t have a formal job title but he’s a huge help with the heavy stuff. Jamie’s 22, and she’s been waitressing; she’ll be bartending more when Casey goes out on maternity leave in a few months. It’s a pretty busy year.”

Now that the interior reno is done and the doors are open, it’s time to consider the possibilities. Gribbon has plans for an herb garden, among other plantings. And the new location has a pizza oven. “That’s new for us,” she says. “We’re never going to be a pizzeria, but we’ve definitely been making dough, doing tastings, and planning to add some fun stuff like stromboli and garlic knots. I think we’ll be able to step out of the box, get a little more creative.”

Given that the “box,” for the High Falls Cafe, has always meant a scratch kitchen

“There are lots of new neighbors here now...but it all settles as everyone gets to know each other and that small-town feeling comes back, where everyone helps each other out.” – Buffy Gribbon, Co-owner

turning out 90 percent house-made everything, including seven varieties of sauce on pasta night, eight on wing night, creative salads, superb starters (Littlenecks in garlic basil broth, anyone? Spring rolls? Trad nachos, or would you prefer yours Irish style?), 10 good beers on draft, mimosa flights, and way too much more to list, it’ll be interesting to see what “a little more creative” will look like. We already know it will taste ambrosial and sound amazing.

So stop in for a Sunday breakfast, a wing night, or a burger any evening. (There are five kinds of burgers, besides a build-your-own option.) Come

have dinner and stay for outstanding blues, rock, or bluegrass, or to play some trivia. “But please, if you need a table, call us for a reservation,” says Gribbon. “We don’t ever want to frustrate you; you’re the reason we do this, but especially when we have events, there’s only so much room and it does fill up quickly.”

All in all, the transition has been a smooth one, and the Gribbons couldn’t be happier with their new permanent location. “We were petrified that the renovations would take forever,” Gribbon says, “but we had so much amazing help. A couple of people remarked that it had the feel of an

old-fashioned barn-raising. I’ve used that term to explain how it went, because it really did take the village to pull this off. There are lots of new neighbors here now, just like there were after 9/11, but it all settles as everyone gets to know each other and that small-town feeling comes back, where everyone helps each other out. It’s a good thing—a really good thing.”

Local Eatery

first capital poke bar

by anne pyburn craig photos by rachel collet

Want a quick, delicious meal full of nourishing variety? Tired of the same old, same old? Come to Uptown Kingston and you’ll find colorful, expertly prepared

poke bowls at First Capital Poke Bar, where you can build your own concoction from a long list of top-notch ingredients, or try one of the house Signature Bowls.

Poke is, in the words of proprietor Max Glausen, “a traditional Hawaiian dish made of fresh fish, limu (seaweed), inamona or kukui nut (candlenut) and sea salt. From its original form, Poke has evolved into a local ‘must have’ at every social event, celebration or gathering. Poke, once thought of like a pupu or appetizer, is now commonly eaten as a meal in the form of a Poke bowl—fresh Poke on a bed of hot, steamed rice, or on a fresh, crisp salad.”

Watching his mom cook and asking endless questions was a big part of Glausen’s childhood in Bedford County, Virginia; despite that upbringing, by the time he turned 14 he thought he’d probably want to become a marine biologist. Instead, he found himself on Long Island washing dishes at the Cull House in Sayville, and by 15, he was promot-

ed to line cook. After high school graduation, he interned at David Burke Kitchen in SoHo and then, back on Long Island, under chef Anthony Robertucci. It was through Robertucci that he met sushi master Makio Idesako.

In 2013, Glausen enrolled in the Culinary Institute of America at Hyde Park; in August of that year, Idesako asked him to help open a Hudson Valley restaurant, SushiMakio in Kingston. “It was an opportunity I didn’t want to miss,” he says. “There was something enticing about this cuisine that was not as well known to most people around. I knew I could cook Italian, French, or New England cuisine, but this was something challenging and it really caught my imagination.”

While working full time at SushiMakio, he

Poke, once thought of like a pupu or appetizer, is now commonly eaten as a meal in the form of a Poke bowl—generally fresh tuna on a bed of hot, steamed rice, or on a crisp salad.

finished up his associate’s degree at the CIA, where he’d eventually return for a bachelor’s degree in business management with a concentration in Asian cuisine. To deepen his understanding, he spent a semester at the CIA’s satellite campus in Singapore, falling ever more in love with Asian flavor.

“I spent $2,000 on my first Japanese knife set,” he says. “And I decided to spend the first two weeks of my first overseas journey in Japan, learning more about the culture and cuisine I’d become so infatuated with.”

In Singapore, “a melting pot for culture from all over

the world—there were mosques down the street from synagogues, there were foods you’d be hardpressed to recreate in the States,” he says. Glausen soaked all of that up while studying the cuisines of Japan, China, and Korea along with the pan-Asian influences of the spice trade and the Silk Road on the region’s tastes. Back home, he received his BA in 2016, still working full time at SushiMakio.

There he met fellow CIA student Joe Geurrero, a native of the Polynesian island of Saipan. Geurrero had lived in Hawaii and cooked Japanese cuisine there for a time.

“There was something enticing about cuisine that was not as well known to most people. I knew I could cook Italian, French, or New England cuisine, but this was something challenging and it really caught my imagination.”

– Proprietor, Max Glausen

“There were some things that I taught him, but a lot more that he taught me,” says Glausen. “We wound up being roommates for a good part of a year. Hawaiian Poke was starting to trend, and I showed him a video that I saw online where the sauce they were using on this ground fish was mayo-based. He said ‘Bruh, that’s not Poke.’ He then proceeded to collect a few ingredients (soy sauce, wasabi, grated ginger, and sesame oil) to make a simple vinaigrette. He then took large cubes of fish, mostly yellowtail or tuna, tossed them in the vinaigrette, and served it over a bed of daikon with scallions as a garnish. It was simple, savory…the perfect bite.”

In spring 2017, he won a scholarship funded by the Japanese Department of Agriculture, Forestry, and Fisheries, and

spent another nine months in Japan, starting with three weeks of language school and five weeks of culinary school before interning at Ginza Sushi-Ko Honten, the second-oldest sushi restaurant in Ginza, where Michelin-starred chef Masa Takayama was trained. “They asked me to stay at the end, but I had already made a commitment to MakioSan,” says Glausen.

Returning to SushiMakio in March 2018

as executive chef, he helped his mentor grow the business while simmering a plan for a place of his own one day. His dream was to open an Izakaya, a Japanese pub; he’d grown very fond of them living in Japan, and felt that Kingston deserved a good one. A pop-up version at the Stockade Tavern was a big hit in February 2020.

First Capital Poke opened its doors in October 2020— amid the shifting and volatile pandemic regulations— and was popular from the start.

One month later, of course, COVID devastated the restaurant world. SushiMakio shut down for three months; Glausen helped his boss reopen, navigating the paperwork for pandemic PPP loans.

Having tried a couple of Poke bars in Albany and believing he could do better (“cocky attitude,” he now reflects) he formed his business in July 2020 with $25,000 in startup funding. “I learned very quickly that being an owner-operator was no cake walk,” he says. “It took two months working night and day to renovate and clean the old Wildebeest space while maintaining my job at SushiMakio.”

First Capital Poke opened its doors on October 10, 2020—amid the shifting and volatile pandemic regulations—and was popular from the start. “Through 2021, business continued to grow as we developed more snack menu items and rice balls,” he says. “My sister, Annie, joined the team to help, eventually becoming general manager.”

tous decision to leave his job at SushiMakio. “And in November, we added the ramen portion of our concept, which led to a dramatic increase in overall sales.”

Clearly, New York’s first capital was ready for the bright, clean flavors of the cuisine that had won his heart.

Follow First Capital Poke Bar on Instagram to be kept advised of the current seasonal specials; there are three each month, repeated each year. And if you’ve never experienced a Japanese-style pub, you’re in for a treat one of these days.

“I want to get a wine and beer license,” says Glausen, “so I can start getting people accustomed to fine sake. That way, Kingston will be ready when I finally open my Izakaya concept.”

first capital poké bar

310 Wall Street, Kingston 845-514-2801

firstcapitalpokebar.com

In October 2022, he made the momen-

We are located in the heart of The Catskill Mountains. We carry Minnetonka Moccasins, chimes, puzzles, local books & maps, gemstones, homemade fudge, jewelry, candy, t-shirts, games, crafts and so much more. We are packed to the rafters with fun, practical, and hard-to-find merchandise. Come visit us for a unique shopping experience.

OUR HOMEMADE FUDGE IS WORTH THE TRIP! nesteggshop.com

the

shops

emerson Shop Locally

at

by anne pyburn craig photos by rachel collet

Half an hour west of Kingston, out amidst the High Peaks of the Catskills, you wouldn’t necessarily expect to find a shopping mecca beside the pretty country highway. But the Catskills have a way of confounding expectations, this one included. At The Shops at Emerson, located at the Emerson Resort & Spa, you’ll find a shopping experience that’s as warm

and welcoming as any old-time Main Street and as fresh as next week. And it all started with the creation of the World’s Largest Kaleidoscope.

“It’s designed to be an experience,” says manager Marci Smith. “We offer a little bit of everything, but it’s not like walking into a big corporate box. It’s more like an

old-school downtown, more curated, but still authentic.” Starting with original developer Dean Gitter’s desire to add a Kaleidostore, the Shops—set in a reinvented vintage barn—have blossomed into truly artful retail.

There are fine furnishings and decor, a toy store with a focus on art and education (and the biggest Jellycat plush selection in the Catskills!), and boutiques for men, women, and kids. There are luxuriant bath and body products, and a General Store offering fine, locally crafted foods—maple syrup, honey, teas, jellies, jams, dips, sauces, specialty chocolates—along with

kitchenware, gadgets, and linens. There’s the Kaleidostore, where unique and collectible kaleidoscopes offer a whole new look at the world, and Waldo’s: offering Catskills-themed souvenirs and gear, locally themed books, snacks, and sundries. All of it is presented atop hand-laid brick and beneath huge vintage beams, taking the indoor shopping experience to a level the malls you remember never dreamt of reaching.

Of course, you’re on a resort property—meaning there’s a full-service spa and the classically crafted contemporary cuisine of the Woodnotes Grille just a

At The Shops at Emerson, located in the Emerson Resort & Spa, you’ll find a shopping experience that’s as warm and welcoming as any old-time Main Street and as fresh as next week.

stone’s throw away, and meaning you are cordially invited to stay the night if you wish. But if you’re seeking special gifts for special folks, or just want some retail therapy with an old-school vibe, the Shops are worth a trip in their own right. “Locals day is every Thursday: Present your state ID/drivers license showing you’re from Ulster, Greene, or Delaware County, and you get 20 percent off,” says Smith. “We’re loved by travelers, but we love to have locals come and enjoy the place—the shopping, the food, the yoga classes, the spa. We welcome everybody.”

Hungry? The Emerson’s Spa Bites offers sandwiches, sal-

ads, soups, and bowls; there’s outdoor seating and a full bar, and you can dine in or order up a takeout picnic for your hike. But do allow plenty of time for browsing. Shops like Melina’s Boutique and the Three Ems—a selection of styles for girls 7-14 that’s curated by property owner Emily Fisher’s fashion-forward granddaughters—deserve to be relished. Furnishings and home goods are arrayed in thoughtful vignettes to spark your decor dreams. The Kaleidostore, of course, is unlike anything you’ve ever seen.

So is the Kaleidoshow, an immersive art experience , in what—as far as anyone knows—is

“We offer a little bit of everything, but it’s like an old-school downtown, more curated, but still authentic.”

- Manager, Marci Smith

the World’s Largest Kaleidoscope. The 60-foot-tall former silo was converted in 1996, designed by award-winning kaleidoscope artist Charles Karadimos. Step in, sit down or lean on the wall, and let yourself be transported into a world of flowing fractals and music; the current multimedia show focuses on flowers, which pair very well with kaleidoscopes indeed ( “The Earth Laughs in Flowers” is a new show debuting July 22 ). You can add the Kaleidoshow to your shopping experience for a mere $5; kids under 12 are free.

At the Shops, you’ll find merchandise at a variety of price points and the Sale Barn, where you can purchase clearance items from all the stores at discounts of up to 50 percent. Cus-

tomer service is a big priority here: Not sure what you need? They’ll be your personal shoppers, and gift-wrap your finds while you wait. “We take customer feedback to heart and we try to stock our stores with just what you’re looking for,” says Smith. “And we hire people who love what they do. Stop in and check us out—I don’t think there’s anywhere else quite like this.”

the shops at emerson

Emerson Resort & Spa

5340 Route 28

Mount Tremper, NY

845-688-2828

emersonresort.com/theshopsatemerson

If you’re seeking special gifts for special folks, or just want some retail therapy with an old-school vibe, The Shops are worth a trip in their own right.

• shop our gift boutique

• therapeutic massage

• organic skincare and waxing

• gift certificates

73 crown st. kingston, new york birchkingston.com 845-331-7139

MICHAEL BORIS CLOTHING

917 • 403 • 0478

Friday • Saturday • Sunday 117 Warren Street • Hudson • New York

Local Spirits

tuthilltown spirits distillery

by anne pyburn craig

Want to experience the heart of the craft distillery revolution, while enjoying one of the region’s most beautiful and historic sites? Come to Grist Mill Lane in Gardiner for a visit to Tuthilltown Spirits, where fine spirits are distilled under the flagship of fifth-generation

Scottish family William Grant & Sons alongside the Shawangunk Kill, in the shadow of the ridge.

Now the birthplace of Hudson Whiskey, the Gristmill’s evolution as a premier distillery began in 2003 when it was purchased by Ralph Erenzo, a passionate climb -

At the Tuthilltown Gristmill, fine spirits are distilled alongside the Shawangunk Kill creek under the auspices of fifth-generation Scottish family Wm Grant & Sons.

er and Shawangunks fan who first thought he’d make the lovely property into camping and lodging for his fellow rock jocks. The campground didn’t go through but with a bit of research, he tapped into the agricultural license of the land and started NY’s first distillery since the repeal of prohibition and ultimately, NY’s first Bourbon.

After Prohibition was repealed in 1933, the laws

and license to distill in the state of NY were rather prohibitive; there were no distilleries until 2003, when Tuthilltown Spirits was founded by Erenzo and partner Brian Lee. This was followed by their creation of the Hudson Whiskey brand in 2005. All of this was done while working to get the state laws and licensing changed. They hit that summit in the mid-2000s, paving the way for the growth of New York state distilled bev-

erages and creating a new market for New York farmers, especially as farm distilleries are required to use 75 percent New Yorkgrown ingredients.

In 2010, the brand was purchased by venerable distillers William Grant. “The entire team at Tuthilltown bring an incredible passion to what they do and possess an entrepreneur-

ial spirit that we will whole-heartedly encourage,” chief executive Simon Hunt told the BBC News at the time. Not long after that, Jacob Tschetter turned from big-city bartending to traveling the state as a Brand Ambassador, promoting and selling the brand across the state —and now, in 2023, he’s creating and curating the visitor experience at the brand’s birthplace.

“I loved the educational and creative aspects of brand work,” he says. “The William Grant & Sons team appreciated and valued my hard work, and then when this role opened up, I saw the opportunity to put a lot of my concepts and inno -

vations to work and really make the home of Hudson Whiskey as great as I knew it could be.” Just stepping onto the property, with its preserved 18th-century structures and lovely meadows beside the creek, is inspiring. This past winter, renovations were done, making the visitor experience even better. “We’re renovating the previous visitors’ center and have moved our current tasting room and bar into the gristmill, which gives more space for people to hang out,” says Tschetter happily.

Guests tour the operation and then choose a flight of six tastes from an à la carte selection of whiskeys, vodkas, liqueurs, and gin: If your

Now the birthplace of Hudson Whiskey, the Gristmill’s evolution as a premier distillery began back when it was purchased by Ralph Erenzo.

timing’s right, you may be invited to taste Limited Edition small-batch productions like the Hudson xSeries. You can also take the guided Bourbon Renewal Tour, which offers a deep dive into the history and the distilling process, a full tour of the distillery including a rick house where whiskey ages in new American oak barrels, finishing with a personalized tasting experience often featuring distillery exclusives.

Beyond the ryes and bourbons, Tschetter is always proud to have people taste the chocolate and coffee liqueurs. “They’re really tasty, and they’re huge right now,” he says. There are corn and apple vodkas, and two styles of gin: “We have our Juniper Jack, more of a London style with a really solid palate, and then we have our Citrus Moon gin for people who aren’t crazy about the juniper flavor—it’s got a lovely citrus note and tastes great on its own or mixed into a beautiful martini or a

The bar offers a selection that’s creative, approachable, and surprising. “We’ve leaned into our creative side,” says Tschetter. “We’ve always focused on making affordable, solid drinks; and we’ve been adding some more elevated cre -

Negroni sour.”

Farm distilleries had been illegal in New York state since Prohibition, but Ralph Erenzo founded his Hudson Whiskey brand and fought to get the law changed.

ations, so you can come in, have fun, and taste a little of that New York craft cocktail experience at a much more affordable price.” There’s an on-site taco truck, and you’re welcome to bring a picnic and explore the 36-acre property. This summer, the distillery is hosting a FARMERS & MAKERS MARKET EACH SATURDAY from 10am-2pm, hosting topnotch local bakers, makers, growers, and producers. As the season unfolds, there are plans for live music events, workshops, immersive cocktail experiences, and more.

If you’re planning a wedding or event, Hudson Whiskey offers something very special: Come in, choose your own barrels to blend, then design your own custom label. With your wedding colors, your names, and a photo and some text on the back, complete with a QR code that you can add to invitations and wedding website. Come visit Hudson Whiskey in Tuthilltown—there’s a lot of love and beauty distilled into these spirits.

CA$H 4 GOLD cocktail recipe

INGREDIENTS

2 Parts Hudson Bright Lights, Big Bourbon Whiskey

3⁄4 Part Fresh Lemon

3⁄4 Part Honey Syrup

INSTRUCTIONS

Build all ingredients in a cocktail shaker, shake with ice. Strain into a tumbler glass over ice. Garnish with a lemon wheel. Enjoy!

tuthilltown

spirits distillery

14 Gristmill Lane, Gardiner 845-419-2964

hudsonwhiskey.com

by anne pyburn craig

this is beacon , ny Eat. Stay. Play.

The little city of Beacon, home to just under 14,000 people, is splendidly located—it’s tucked between a waterfront groomed into lovely parkland and a mountain to explore, all of it walkable from the Metro North stop. In between those two glories is a fiesta of shopping, eating, and drinking that has something for everyone.

If you make it to the top of Mount Beacon, you’re on the site where rebel troops lit signal fires to warn the valley of British incursions. On a clear day, you can make out the New York City skyline in the far distance. (From 1902 till 1978, there was a single-gauge Incline Railway to the summit that I blame for my mild lifelong acrophobia.)

Trail from Scenic Hudson’s Long Dock Park to Dennings Point, where you can contemplate industrial ruins juxtaposed with the glorious Newburgh Bay. You’ll pass the Beacon Sloop Club, founded by modest Beacon neighbor Pete Seeger, winner of five Grammy awards, notorious in the ’50s, world renowned beginning in the ’60s, and one of the most important players in the battle to bring this glorious river back to life.

The city was a thriving manufacturing hub till the 1960s, at one point holding the title of “hat manufacturing capital of New York State.” To get a feel for the history here, take a walk out the Riverfront

When DIA:Beacon took over a former box factory on the waterfront in 2003, opening one of the largest spaces in the US exhibiting modern and contemporary art, it was all the spark Beacon needed to shake off its post-industrial malaise. Artists—some from the metro area, others from, well, everywhere— moved in in droves and did what artists do best: beautify and invigorate. Main Street has evolved to serve them; this is a jeans-and-T-shirts town filled with intelligent fun.

Mount Beacon.

Photo by Scenic Hudson.

shop

LAST OUTPOST STORE is a great place to pick up locally-themed T-shirts and mugs, several scents of beard oil, and accessories you’re unlikely to find elsewhere such as a brass compass and a pair of deerskin gloves. The store’s merchandise is a blend of local artistry and vintage finds geared toward a sustainable outdoor lifestyle and presented with an Old World flair. 314 Main Street, Beacon lastoutpoststore.com

HYPERION JEWELERS founder David Boswell began his adventures in precious stones and metals with a much-loved store in a mall in New York’s Southern Tier. Nowadays, Beaconites enjoy his full-service shop, where they can do anything you need done to a piece of jewelry, buy any gold and diamonds you don’t need, and make you a custom creation using natural, conflict-free, and eco-conscious components. Veterans, military, and first responders get a discount. 482 Main St, Beacon 845-800-1382, hyperionjewelers.com

KING + CURATED: Every piece you’ll find here is designed and made in-house and exclusive to the store: earrings inspired by starbursts and half-moons, custom cuff bracelets in raw brass, long-link paperclip chains and anklets that can be fused on for a forever feel. The store is a passion project; you’ll be warmly welcomed in a space that’s intentionally designed to feel like an elegant living room, and see a selection they describe as “from affordable to aspirational.” 530 Main Street, Beacon 845-440-3368, kingandcurated.com

HUDSON VALLEY GOLDSMITH was named Best Custom & Socially Responsible Jewelry by HudsonValley magazine in 2019; its creators, David and Sara, started as craft show gypsies before opening their first small shop. Today, a carefully selected team of goldsmiths crafts some 1000 custom pieces a year, and offers a curated selection from 20 fellow artists; all materials are earth-friendly, and David and Sara take pride in paying their helpers a living wage. 226 Main Street, Beacon 845-440-7894, hudsonvalleygoldsmith.com

NOURISH NATURAL SOAP COMPANY

is dedicated to improving both your skin and how you feel living in it, using fine, all-natural essential oils and fruit extracts that refresh you inside and out. Try the Sea and Sand or Honeycomb soaps, and you’ll see what they mean. There are a lot of choices: bars, bath bombs, shower steamers, and more, all handmade with love and care.

263 Main Street, Beacon 845-440-3922, nourishnaturalsoap.com

HEALTHY IN COLOR is a strong, knowledgeable ally in the quest to eat right and enjoy it. Their fresh, organic, and nutrient-rich plant-based offerings will boost your energy and immunity; the menu is designed with an eye to helping conscious eaters, including those coping with hypertension, high cholesterol, and diabetes. Their hand-crafted smoothies, cold-pressed juices, bowls and salads will delight your taste buds.

259 Main Street, Beacon 845-440-6221, healthyincolor.com

BAJA 328 TEQUILA BAR & Southwest

Grill stocks over 130 top-shelf varieties of the iconic beverage that pairs so well with good times, such as the live entertainment they provide every weekend. “Tequila may not solve all your problems,” they admit on their website, “but we’d like to give it a shot.” Try a tasting flight and you may find they’ve succeeded. A wide, delicious selection of Southwestern delights are house-made with fresh ingredients.

328 Main Street, Beacon 845-838-BAJA(2252), baja328.com

QUINN’S: Live music, bar, Japanese soul food is quinn-tessential Beacon, a cultural hub for all things cozy and cool, with weekly jazz sessions and other eclectic music. Wash down your Japanese seaweed salad, ramen, or shrimp katsu with a glass of authentic sake, or pair a hot dog dressed in kimchi with a fine craft beer, and stick around to discover bands with names like Telepathic Moon Dance and Scary Mountain Wizard.

330 Main St, Beacon 845-202-7447, quinnsbeacon.com

KITCHEN SINK SUPPER CLUB hosts Chefs Tasting Menu dinners each Friday and Saturday night, with communal seating, wine pairings, and house cocktails that will turn strangers into friends in no time flat. The rotating menu changes every four weeks or so, giving these chefs-on-a-mission ample opportunity to explore the wonders that can be created when fresh local ingredients meet globally inspired recipes. 157 Main Street, Beacon 845-765-0240, Kitchensinkny.com

BROTHER’S TRATTORIA is a favorite for artisanal Northern and Southern Italian cuisine, offering a lunch menu with all kinds of thoughtfully made wraps, sandwiches, and paninis and an extensive, elegant selection of entrees for dinner. Grab some pizza in the front room, or reserve a table in the splendid Tuscan Dining Room and finish out your evening with a top-notch cocktail by the fire in the bar room.

465 Main Street, Beacon 845-838-3300, brotherstrattoria.com

THE ROUNDHOUSE is a splendid reclamation of 200-year-old industrial spaces, remade as luxe accommodations with enormous thought and care. All around the property, you’ll find historic photos telling its story. Today, everything—tables, light fixtures, fencing, tiles—is crafted by local artisans and set off by reclaimed wood. There are glorious waterfall views all over the place, and a wide selection of well-appointed, Midcentury Modern-inspired rooms.

2 East Main Street, Beacon, 845-765-8369, roundhousebeacon.com

DIA:BEACON MUSEUM The DIA Art Foundation was founded by and for artists in New York City in 1974; the goal was “to help artists achieve visionary projects that might not otherwise be realized because of scale or scope.” Opened in a repurposed Nabisco box printing factory in 2003, the Beacon location, an easy, 10-minute walk from the Metro North stop, is one of 11 sites in the US and Germany. Its 160,000 square feet of exhibition space, lit by 34,000 square feet of skylights, offers unique opportunities; you can see Andy Warhol’s 350-linear-foot Shadows here, and a whole lot more.

3 Beekman Street, Beacon 845-440-0100, diaart.org

HIKING MOUNT BEACON is reasonably challenging; you’re gaining 1,000 feet in altitude, but there are switchbacks that make it a lot less vertically overwhelming. At the parking lot, you’ll find a handy convenience store, bike rack, EV chargers, and a PortaPotty. Follow the Casino Trail (red blazes) to the 200 iron stairs, from the top of which you’ll get your first view; stay with the red blazes up to the ruins of the casino and the Incline Railway’s summit. On the other side of the ruins, pick up the red blazes again—another 500 vertical feet gets you to the fire tower, with even more spectacular views.

788 Wolcott Ave, Beacon hudsonvalleyhikes.com/hikes/mt-beacon

Meet The Owner

chbo drums

Humans have always loved to bang on drums. New research indicating that drumming speeds healing, boosts immunity, and helps release emotional trauma

is no surprise to percussionists— they’ve always known how good it makes them feel. In New Paltz, people drawn in by drumming have a wonderful resource at their fingertips: CHBO Drums, an old-

school shop where the rhythm and the sound are everything.

After attending Berklee School of Music and constantly touring, Chris moved to New York City and immediately landed in the downtown session scene. “I had a day job, an internship designing percussion instruments for an international company, and I was hustling gigs in the evenings

images by rachel collet

and meeting all kinds of people,” he says. “Coming there, after the mountains of North Carolina, was like walking into a Fellini film. It was magic.”

He met and married his wife Julie, a designer. The couple and their two sons lived in Brooklyn; however, after exploring the Hudson Valley, they built a second home in Kerhonkson. Bowman’s skill at designing and building studios— he’s built 250-plus of them, some as distant as Malaysia—was in high demand. “Building studios, playing gigs, and being a dad, it was a lot,”

he says. “It was controlled chaos, and I loved it.” In the early 2000s, the family moved to Ulster County full time.

After living in the community for a couple of years, Julie created what would become a musical and culinary legend: Jack and Luna’s Café offered superb lunches and catering and live jazz each month.

Chris continued building studios locally. “These days, I still do consulting, and I teach acoustical classes on Zoom for NYU and Eastman School of Music.”

In New Paltz, people drawn in by drumming have a wonderful resource at their fingertips: CHBO Drums, an old-school shop where the rhythm and the sound are everything.

“I wanted someplace to go a couple of days a week and have some fun. So I just opened up a kooky little drum shop, and people sought me out.”

- Owner Chris Bowman

Ten years ago, Bowman located a little shop in New Paltz down by the river and the Rail Trail. “I wanted someplace to go a couple of days a week and have some fun,” he says. “So I just opened up a kooky little drum shop, and people sought me out.”

The building recently sold, and he quickly learned that New Paltz really didn’t want him leaving town. His new location, at the corner of Main Street and Oakwood Terrace, gave him 1,800 square feet to fill with percussion instruments of all kinds. “I’ve got just a boatload of stuff in here,” he says. “I’ve got a whole Sonic Energy Corner full of singing bowls and tuning forks, world music stuff. I have a lot of vintage American-made gear, stuff from the ’50s, ’60s and ’70s that’s become collectible, and then I have new small kits for beginners. I sell a lot of

djembes, and gongs for all sorts of purposes, from yoga classes to a real estate brokerage that wanted a gong to hit when they closed a big sale.”

“Our drum instructor, Sal, teaches private lessons in our house studio. He organizes performance events for the kids, gets them into bands, and just, everything about it feels good,” says Bowman. “People come in to look at the latest gear, try stuff, hear my crazy old musician stories. I do repairing, refinishing and consignment. The whole mission is to hook you up with what you need and what you’ll love to play. People these days will go online and make a purchase based on a sound bite, a sample—and

then it shows up and it isn’t what they expected because they never actually heard the instrument, they heard something from their computer speaker. Shopping a brick-andmortar store is a completely different experience.”

“I get a ton of college students and I love them—they’re so wide-eyed and on fire with it,” says Bowman. “I’ve added a lot of my painting and sculpture to my space. Walking into the space feels more like a gallery with vintage, collectable drums and percussion mingled with my art. I love the way music and art form a common denominator—you can be anyone, from anywhere, look like

“I love the way music forms a common denominator—you can be anyone, from anywhere, look like anything, you don’t even need a common language because music...transcends everything.”

- Chris Bowman

anything, you don’t even need a common language because art is that. It transcends everything.”

When a newbie enters the shop, says Bowman, “the first thing I tell them is, I’ve been doing this a million years and there’s no right or wrong. I’m going to share with you what I’ve learned, but you’ll never hear me say, ‘This is the only way to do it’ because it’s just one of so many ways, and the right way for this individual is going to come from inside them.”

Besides running CHBO, Bowman still plays jazz. “I just did a heavy avant-garde gig down in Brooklyn. Last week, I was part of a big benefit concert in Rosendale. I just finished working on a record up in Boston and played a harmolodic concert there at the end of the year. It’s just balancing the things out and having fun.

“This is my bliss, and sharing it just makes it better. I believe you have to keep moving—do something

every day that makes you happy. If you’re not having fun, that’s on you, you know?”

chbo DRUMS

1 South Oakwood Terrace, New Paltz

Hours: Wed - Sat: 11am-5pm 917-217-3107

chbodrums.com

by anne pyburn craig photos by rachel collet

If you’re near Woodstock and have a household or garden project planned, you need to know about Houst Hardware. If you’re near Woodstock and need sporting goods, pet supplies, housewares, camping gear, or a chess set, you need to know about Houst before you go trekking out of the hills to the big boxes. For that matter, if you just happen to be visiting Woodstock and don’t need anything in particular, but just want to authentically experience the town, we highly recommend a trip to Houst. Just walking through the door will transport you to another time, or perhaps another reality, in which retail is the way it’s supposed to be.

Woodstockers love Houst with a passion, not least because they can get so many of life’s necessities there.

As the slogan on the webpage says, there’s something for everyone here. But it’s deeper than the things on the shelves and in the bins. It’s the welcome from people who sincerely care about what you need and will help you find it swiftly and sweetly.

“Mom & baby friendly store!” writes a Google reviewer. “I arrived with my stroller, the man at the front promptly offered help. He gave concise directions for where to find what I needed, and the easiest way to get there with my stroller. Thank you for being accessible to everyone.”

Walking through the door at Houst Hardware will transport you to another time, or perhaps another reality, in which retail is the way it’s supposed to be.

“Just a typical day at Houst,” writes local guide Tim Delaney. “I walked in with a bolt, needed a longer one with the same thread, and they helped me find it in two minutes. That’s the way it is there, and has been for the many years I have been going there. Plus, of course, they have all the usual hardware/ yard/home repair stuff for simpler needs!” Yet an-

other reviewer was astonished when, on running into problems setting up the scaffolding they’d rented there, they called the store for guidance—and ended up receiving hands-on, in-person help at no extra charge. It was 1932 when Henry O. Houst, a master elec-

trician and father of six whose wife was facing a life-threatening illness, made the bold move of opening a store. Originally named the Tinker Shop, it was a place where you could find electrical or plumbing items and get them fixed—or catch a movie in the small theater. (His wife, Anna Mae, would recover and handle the office work for years.)

“There’s always been that general store vibe here.”

- Jody Bryan, CEO and President

“There’s always been some interesting side business,” says CEO and president Jody Bryan. “In the ’60s and into the ’70s, there was clothing, mainly Levi’s jeans. Then, into the ’90s, there was auto repair. Nowadays we do equipment rentals. And there’s always been that general store vibe.”

Bryan’s been working at Houst since just before she turned 18. When her mother married Ned Houst, nephew of Henry’s daughter Ruth, she’d already been there a few years

and grown accustomed to the warm vibes and varied array of merchandise. Ned, who’d been managing Houst since the mid1960s, had had opportunities in the corporate world—but Woodstock won out, and he never looked back. Now, he still does some of the bookkeeping, but has been turning the reins over to his stepdaughter and her husband John Despres, a native Woodstocker with memories of shopping at Houst as a kid and now runs the equipment rental business.

As the slogan on the webpage says, there’s something for everyone here.

It’s been a gradual transfer, far more evolution than revolution.

Bryan and Despres are firm believers in the core mission and human-centric nature of the business. One thing Bryan’s done just recently is work with Nan Tepper Design to revamp the website with the new slogan, “There’s something for everyone at Houst!”, and artwork from Thorneater Comics creator Will Lytle. Besides the slogan and the graceful art, there’s a sly, mellow wit that one suspects Henry might have appreciated: On their website, for example, scroll your computer mouse over a sketch of a birdfeeder and the words “Birds not included” are revealed. The other change Bryan’s made, staying closed on Sundays, began during the pandemic and has worked out well for every-

one—well, almost everyone. Customers occasionally fuss, but Bryan says that looking out for her team—some of whom have decades on the job—is key to maintaining the quality of service that only comes from folks who have quality of life. “It was just before Easter Sunday in 2020, and we were packed; I mean, it felt like half the population of New York City was in Woodstock,” says Bryan. “Just hordes of people, and not very comfortable. I made the decision to close on weekends for a month, to give everybody some breathing room, let us all take a step back. After that month, we reopened on Saturdays. But I have people who’ve been here for years and years. They’re not really replaceable, and it’s good for all of us to have one day a week when none of us have to worry about it.”

Bryan imagines that those who experience Sunday hardware emergencies probably head over to a different store, but it’s all good. Down the line, Bryan and Despres hope to find their own successors— people who can share the passion for small-town retail that’s been keeping Houst vital for over eight decades.

tinue that organizational culture into the future. It’s not just about us, me and John. It’s a co-creation between everyone who works here and everyone who walks through our doors. The whole vibe, the usefulness and friendliness, is a group project—and it’s important to us to keep that going.”

“We’re in the center of town, and this really is still a small town, even if it does feel like half of New York State lives here these days,” Bryan says. “And it feels like we’re one of the remaining vital components of that small-town feel. So it’s a priority of ours to find a way to con -

So whether you’re in search of fasteners, hand tools, paint, pet supplies, or a board game to pass a pleasant rainy afternoon, come on into this down-to-earth heart of town and immerse yourself in the art of hardware, Woodstock’s lowkey center of peace, love…and nuts and bolts.

houst hardware

4 Mill Hill Road, Woodstock 845-679-2115

housthardware.com

Play Time

festival fun 2023

by anne pyburn craig

Summer around the Hudson Valley and Catskills means time for all manner of shenanigans. Some gems have been a-polishing for decades; others are new and taking off like rockets. Either way, you can’t go wrong at any of these extremely varied celebrations, so let the good times roll.

BELLAYRE MOUNTAIN SUMMER CONCERTS

Fridays from July through September

At Belleayre, the mountain at the northwest tip of Ulster County, there are summer concerts every Friday from July through September; movie nights at Belleayre Beach, and the annual “Brews and Views” fest in autumn. If you’re going to be in the area, think about a Season

Pass here — it comes with endless rides on the Catskill Thunder Gondola and a lot more.

181 Galli Curci Road, Highmount

845-254-5600, belleayre.com

COLONY WOODSTOCK

July 1: International Reggae Day Celebration

July 16: Vaudeville Frolic

August 4: Dolly Parton-Inspired

Country Western Diva Dance Party

The Colony is a refreshed Woodstock icon offering great live music and entertainment every weekend all summer long, or you can experience the most organic side of the scene at the renowned Monday Open Mic nights. Come for dinner and stay for the show; sip your choice of beverage in a lovely beer garden.

22 Rock City Road, Woodstock

845-679-ROCK (7625), colonywoodstock.com

HONEST BROOK MUSIC FESTIVAL

July 15-August 13

The Honest Brook Music Festival is a series of classical concerts held in a converted dairy barn, surrounded by lush perennial gardens and beloved by performers for both its acoustic glories and the audience it draws. There’s something different every weekend from July 15-Aug 13; curators have a knack for spotting up-and-coming young, unknown talents who go on to stun the musical world, so come hear the next stars first, right here in the Western Cats.

Honest Brook Road, Delhi

607-746-3770, hbmf.org

MAVERICK CONCERTS

Every Sunday from June through September

The oldest, continuous summer chamber music festival in America, Maverick Concerts have an award-winning tradition of fine sounds that’s over a century long. Shows happen every Sunday from June through September in a gorgeous, hand-built hall; they’ve begun adding some jazz and contemporary to the mix in recent seasons. They also host Maverick Family Saturdays: free, interactive, shorter shows designed to engage all ages.

120 Maverick Road, Woodstock, maverickconcerts.org

CATSKILL MOUNTAIN SHAKESPEARE

July 15-30

Dive into the timeless works of the Bard up in Hunter, where they’ll be producing both classic text and new work initiatives at Catskill Mountain Shakespeare from July 15-30. Gather outdoors and under the tent for the fourth season of As You Like It, and groove on the interpretations of experienced, professional talent. “Love is (after all) merely a madness,” so come get you some of the finest flavor.

7970 Main Street, Lanesville (Hunter)

catskillmountainshakespeare.com

Rich Wade Photography

HUDSON VALLEY ART WEEKEND

July 21-24

The Upstate Art Weekend, begun in 2020 with just 23 participants, drew well over 100 the following year and continues to thrive. It’s created with the conscious intention of bringing together locals and visitors around our shared love of the arts, and draws thousands. Art organizations, galleries, museums, residencies, and creative projects participate in a self-guided tour experience from July 21-24 that covers 10 counties—wherever you are up here, this festival is near you.

Upstateartweekend.org

POLLINATE: A COMMUNITY MASQUERADE

Saturday, July 22

Celebrate the pollinators with Circle Creative Collective’s Pollinator Masquerade. Dance under the stars dressed as birds, flowers, bees, butterflies, and nature spirits of all kinds. You can wear your own masks, crowns, and costumes created at home, join one of Circle’s mask-making workshops, or come to Circle’s Handmade Costume Market to find costumes made by local artists using upcycled and honorably harvested materials.

circlecreativecollective.org

BETHEL WOODS FESTIVALS

August 19-20

Bethel Woods Center for the Arts, the place where Woodstock happened, was reclaimed in the name of joy as a cultural and performing arts center and hosts epic good times of all sorts. A brand new one, the Catbird Music Festival, will happen on the original festival’s anniversary weekend (August 19-20), filling the natural amphitheater that shook the world with local eats, craft beer, and your favorite folk, indie, and Americana artists, as well as jam bands.

200 Hurd Road, Bethel, bethelwoodscenter.org

DUTCHESS FAIRGROUNDS

County Fair: August 22-27

It would be just plain silly to let a beautiful and well-appointed fairgrounds sit idle for much of the year, so the Dutchess County Fairgrounds hosts a wide and wild variety of celebrations. Besides the region’s biggest, boldest county fair, happening from August 22-27 this year, there will be crafts, vintage goodies, food and wine, and livestock taking turns on center stage all summer long.

6550 Spring Brook Avenue, Rhinebeck

845-876-4000, dutchessfair.com

DELAWARE COUNTY FAIR

August 14-19

For an authentic country fair experience, come help celebrate the 136th annual Delaware County Fair, happening August 14-19 this year. “We know agriculture, and we know fun,” it says on the website, and they absolutely do: The largest agriculture-centered celebration in the region typically draws about 80,000 visitors each year to partake of events, shows, contests, rides, cuisine and more. Come meet over 1,000 animals, and bring the fam.

Fair Street, Walton 607-865-4763, delawarecountyfair.org

QUAIL HOLLOW: WOODSTOCK NP ARTS CRAFTS

Sept 4, Labor Day Weekend

The Woodstock/New Paltz Arts and Crafts Fair has been growing and thriving since the ’80s. Each Memorial Day and Labor Day weekend, you’ll meet a juried group of many dozens of the finest makers anywhere. Prepare to be delighted by the many thoughtful touches—live music, great local eats and drinks, loads of demonstrations, and a Children’s Center.

249 Libertyville Road, New Paltz 845-516-4342, quailhollow.com

Pools, Spas & Patio Furniture

One Light...Changes Everything.

One Light...Changes Everything.

One Light...Changes Everything. E hi

One Light...Changes Everything. E hi

Custom Inground Pool Installations

Custom Inground Pool Installations

Large Selection of Patio Furniture

Large Selection of Patio Furniture

Salt Water Pools

1606 Ulster Avenue, Lake Katrine (Next to Adams) • 336-8080 www.aquajetpools.com

Salt Water Pools www.aquajetpools.com

Schedule your pool closing today

Free Pool and Spa Water Analysis

Free Pool and Spa Water Analysis

Family owned and operated for over 40 years

Family owned and operated for over 30 years

LET THE GOOD TIMES ROLL...

www.dutchessfair.com

The 177th Dutchess County Fair

Rhinebeck, NY

August 22 - August 27

Advance Discount Tickets For Admission, Ride All Day Wristbands & Concerts Are Available At dutchessfair.com

KIDS UNDER 11 FREE ADMISSION AT ALL TIMES

FREE PARKING!

Happy Trails and Bon

Sims and Kirsten Harlow Foster, Foster Supply Hospitality of the DeBruce, Arnold House Tavern, and Kenoza Hall are a 2023 James Beard Foundation Semi-Finalist for Outstanding Restaurateur.