Sips & Nibbles

Vitis Staff

Liquidity Wines is one of the wineries in B.C.’s newest sub-GI, Okanagan Falls.

Liquidity Wines photo

B.C. BURSTING WITH NEW WINE REGIONS

It’s time to draw a new map for British Columbia’s wine country.

This summer, the B.C. Ministry of Agriculture approved four new wine regions—properly known as geographic indications—as well as B.C.’s second sub-GI.

The ministry formally recognized the Thompson Valley, Shuswap, Lillooet and the Kootenays as new geographic indications under the Wines of Marked Quality Regulation.

It also named Okanagan Falls as the province’s second sub-appellation, following Oliver’s Golden Mile Bench in 2015.

OK Falls winds north along the east bench of Skaha Lake, across the water to Kaleden and south over the rolling hills above Vaseux Lake. It includes such prestigious wineries as Painted Rock, Liquidity Wines, Blue Mountain, Meyer Family and Syncromesh and comprises some 150 hectares of vineyards producing more than 1,100 tonnes of grapes annually.

These are the first major changes to B.C.’s wine regions since 1990, when Vintner’s Quality Assurance rules delineated the Fraser Valley, Okanagan Valley, Similkameen Valley, Vancouver Island and Gulf Islands.

Why does this matter? Well, for one thing, it provides more land for winemakers, which means more wine for us to drink. But it also makes B.C. a more serious player in the world of wine, with greater competition, better focus and a more astute understanding of what makes each region’s wines distinctive.

Along with these approvals, Wines of Marked Quality Regulation now prohibits the use of unregulated geographical locations on B.C. Wine Authority members’ wine labels.

Other changes will be coming soon, all designed to enforce quality of the end product. And we can expect to see more sub-GIs as well. Already, the Naramata Bench has put a proposal before the B.C. Wine Authority, which may be decided this fall.

This is good news for winemakers; even better news for wine consumers.

Photo courtesy of Elsa Macdonald

MASTER OF HER CRAFT

In August, Canada added another Master of Wine to the join the likes of B.C.’s Rhys Pender and Barbara Philip: Elsa Macdonald, the Ontario-based director of wine education at Arterra Wines Canada and member of the national board of directors for the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers.

Macdonald is one of 10 new MWs certified this year by the Institute of Masters of Wine, bringing the global total to 380 talented palates based in 30 countries.

The 2018 additions are: Almudena Alberca MW (Spain), Barbara Drew MW (UK), Olga Karapanou Crawford MW (USA), Regine Lee MW (UK), Elsa Macdonald (Canada), Thomas Parker MW (UK), Lindsay Pomeroy MW (USA), Nicolas Quillé MW (USA), Job de Swart MW (Netherlands) and Tim Triptree MW (UK).

Becoming a Master of Wine involves understanding all aspects of wine and passing one of the most rigorous examinations in any field. It comprises intensive theory and practical examinations, as well as the submission of a final research paper. For more info, visit mastersofwine.org.

BEAUTIFULLY BIODYNAMIC AT SUMMERHILL

Gabe Cipes leads the biodynamic initiative at Summerhill Pyramid Winery, the first in B.C. to achieve Demeter certification.

Tarynn Liv Parker photo

Three decades ago, Kelowna’s Summerhill Pyramid Winery was B.C.’s first to go organic. Now it’s become the first B.C. winery to go officially biodynamic with the release of its initial Demeter-certified bottlings, the 2017 Summerhill Vineyard Riesling and Grüner Veltliner.

Demeter International, which was established in 1928, is the world’s largest certification organization for biodynamic agriculture. Certification is a difficult achievement, and one that must be renewed annually.

Biodynamic is similar to organic farming in that it rejects the use of synthetic chemicals, but it goes a whole lot further. It means treating the whole farm as a living organism through crop rotation, composting, interplanting, seed saving and using animals to assist with composting and pest control. It also takes into account influences of the moon and other planets.

The result is a healthy soil, healthy plants and vibrant, flavourful wines. As Summerhill’s CEO, Ezra Cipes, writes on the winery website, “When we make wine biodynamically it is proof of the vitality of our vineyard.”

TANGLED IN TRADE WARS

Every wine-producing nation in the world has direct sales within its own country. Canada needs to correct this so that we can start to create a level playing field with the rest of the world. —Tony Stewart

Wine has such a romantic image, it’s sometimes easy to forget that it’s also a business, and a serious one at that.

Not in 2018, though.

This year, two major free-trade issue have had enormous potential to affect—for good or ill—what we drink and how much we pay for it.

First, there was the interprovincial trade case known as Comeau. In October 2012, a New Brunswick man named Gerard Comeau attempted to transport a few cases of beer across the border from Quebec, in contravention of the New Brunswick Liquor Control Act. After police nabbed him (and his beer), the New Brunswick Provincial Court determined that the law was a trade barrier violating section 121 of the Constitution Act of 1867, sending the case to the Supreme Court of Canada.

Much to the disappointment of consumers, winemakers and merchants alike, on April 19 the Supreme Court decided against Comeau, determining that that Section 121 does not impose absolute free trade across Canada. In other words, it slammed the door on direct-to-consumer purchases of wine across Canada, making it easier to buy a Pinot Noir from, say, Tasmania than one from Prince Edward County.

“Every wine-producing nation in the world has direct sales within its own country,” said a disappointed Tony Stewart, proprietor & CEO of Quails’ Gate Winery. “Canada needs to correct this so that we can start to create a level playing field with the rest of the world.”

And then there’s NAFTA, the North American Free Trade Agreement, which has swept up dairy, softwood lumber, car manufacturing and wine in its uneasy wake. As the fractious negotiations continue, wine is still at issue.

Earlier this year, the U.S. requested a World Trade Organization dispute settlement panel following a complaint lodged in September 2017. It is over what it perceives as B.C.’s unfair rules regarding wine sales in the province’s grocery stores, which only permit 100 per cent B.C. wine on shelves.

“While not surprised given the current stall in NAFTA negotiations and the U.S.’s earlier WTO complaint against B.C. practices, we remain puzzled how they have been harmed as the U.S. has a wine trade surplus of $450.6 million,” said Miles Prodan, president and CEO of the BC Wine Institute. “Still, we need to take their concerns seriously and we have been proactive in working with all levels of government to address the concerns of this, and other trade issues.”

Discussions continue. Meanwhile, it’s enough to drive a wine lover to drink.

CANADA AND U.S. WINE BY THE NUMBERS

According to the BCWI, wine produced in Canada represents 32 per cent of total sales domestically while imported wine owns 68 per cent of the market. Canada is the U.S.’s second largest wine export market by value, after the European Union.

Since the Canada-U.S. Free Trade Agreement (CUSFTA) was signed in 1988:

• U.S. wine import value to Canada has tripled to 21.4% of total imports.

• U.S. wine sales market share in Canada have doubled to 14.2% (VQA wine is 10%).

• U.S. wine brand listings in Canada have experienced double digit growth over the past 30 years.

• U.S. wines have experienced 13% average annual wine sales value growth in Canada, every year for the past 30 years.

• U.S. bottled wine imports have experienced 10% average annual wine sales value growth in Canada, every year for the past 30 years since the signing of the CUSFTA.

• In B.C., U.S. bottled wine imports rank #1 in value at $60 million, and #1 in volume at 7.5 million litres.

CALENDAR

Thirsty? Add these wine-soaked events to your calendar.

OKANAGAN FALL WINE FESTIVAL

Sept. 27 to Oct. 7 – The biggest party in the valley features more than 100 events at wineries and restaurants, as well as signature events including the WestJet Wine Tasting, the BC Lieutenant Governor’s Wine Awards and Cropped, which boasts more than 250 local wines, food and live music. thewinefestivals.com

EAT! VANCOUVER FOOD + COOKING FESTIVAL

Nov. 5 to 10 – The 16th annual foodie fest features a series of collaboration dinners between local and celebrated North American chefs, as well as signature events such as the EAT! Harvest Party, which will feature the wines of Washington and Oregon states. Don’t miss this unique opportunity to sample seldom-seen vintages from our neighbours to the south. eat-vancouver.com

CORNUCOPIA

Nov. 8 to 18 – Head to the hills for 10 days of wine, spirits, beer, food and fresh mountain air at Whistler’s annual celebration of food and drink. Indulge in winemaker’s dinners, the Crush and Poured grand tastings, exceptional food and drink seminars, and so much more. whistlercornucopia.com

DINEOUT VANCOUVER FESTIVAL

Jan. 18 to Feb. 3, 2019 – Start the New Year right with a full 17 days of delicious dining. Aside from dozens (and dozens) of restaurants offering bargain prix-fixe menus, the fest features BC VQA wine pairings and brunches, as well as food tours, cocktail masterclasses and global guest-chef collaborations. dineoutvancouver.com

VANCOUVER INTERNATIONAL WINE FESTIVAL

Feb. 23 to March 3, 2019 – Clear your calendar for North America’s greatest wine fest. California is the theme region for the 41st annual shindig, which features an anticipated 50 events at 25 venues, as well as the not-to-be-missed international tastings, where more than 700 wines will be poured. vanwinefest.ca