Viva Travel Guides Colombia - Lower Magdalena River Valley Chapter by VIVA Publishing Network

Lower Magdalena River Valley

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Colombia Bogotรก - Valle del Cauca - Zona Cafetera - Tierra Paisa - Magdalena River Valley - Southern Colombia - Caribbean and Pacific Coasts - Eastern Colombia Llanos and Selva - La Guajira Peninsula

2nd Edition July 2009

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Lower Magdalena

Lower Magdalena Strategic and fertile are two words that describe the vast stretches of flood plain comprising the Lower Magdalena River Valley. This area, originally a strategic main route from the coast to the interior of Colombia, now prospers with some of the nation’s largest cattle ranches. Spend any time here and you’ll see that cattle farming is the dominant industry. Enormous ranches extend out of the towns along the river, and any journey you make will undoubtedly be delayed by a passing cattle train ambling along a major byway. As ranching is life to the people here, town festivals often resemble rodeos. The bull riding and drinking evoke scenes reminiscent of a long-disappeared American West.

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In the spirit of Colombian regionalism, most people in this area are referred to by other Colombians as costeños (from the coast). This name sticks despite the fact that towns like Mompós, Puerto Berrío and Barrancabermeja are located several hundred kilometers from the nearest shore. The relative misnomer is justified when you learn that residents of these towns are defined by the freshwater of the Magdalena River. From the smokestacks and nodding donkeys in Barrancabermeja to the silversmiths and Nazarenes in the austere Semana Santa of Mompós, the Lower Magdalena River Valley is an area you will not want to miss. The García Márquez-like idiosyncrasies and welcoming inhabitants will leave a lasting impression on any traveler. Updated: Mar 05, 2008.

Lower Magdalena

Highlights Well kept in its hard-to-reach location, Mompós (p.203) is one of the colonial jewels in Colombia’s opulent crown. The only one of its kind in Latin America, the Oil Museum (p.201) of Barrancabermeja is a good resource to understand the importance of the oil industry in Colombia. Take a ride on a speed boat up the Magdalena River for the full experience of this region’s activities and beauty. Updated: Mar 05, 2008.

History

As the Spanish colonial empire flourished, the main highway from principal towns and ports was directly connected to the river. Everything, including silver from the mines in Potosí and contraband from the Caribbean Islands, passed through these waters. During the drive for independence, the towns along the Lower Magdalena were pivotal in Simón Bolívar’s push for separation from Spain. Since Mompós and other settlements gained more income through contraband, which the Spanish crown was intent on curtailing, locals quickly sided with the Venezuelan-born liberator to join the fight against Spain.

When to Go

When planning your trip to Lower Magdalena, take into consideration the unrelenting heat, which rarely dips below high 20ºC (68º F). Travelers should be aware of when rainy seasons hit, since there is widespread flooding in the Lower Magdalena, and journeys can be delayed. Keep an eye out for floods in January and from April to May. Updated: Jan 21, 2008.

Safety in Lower Magdalena

Since the Uribe government has made special efforts to secure all major highways, most routes in the Lower Magdalena are safe. However, you are advised not to travel on the road from Medellín via Puerto Berrío to other destinations at night, since the paramilitaries have a large presence in these areas. Updated: Jan 21, 2008.

Things to See and Do

No visit to the Lower Magdalena is complete without some time spent interacting with the river. The Magdalena River is intrinsic to Colombian identity and has characterized Colombia’s history through thick and thin. The town of Mompós is the river’s main attraction. The outgoing traveler can explore beyond simple tourism and delve deep into the heart of Colombia with handsome churches and curious histories. Updated: Jan 21, 2008.

Lower Magdalena Tours Hostal Doña Manuela Hostal Dona Manuela is the one of the finest tour operators in Mompós. They offer city and wildlife tours of the local ciénagas, which let visitors marvel at the abundance of birds. Doña Manuela also runs a finca outside of Mompós with a swimming pool and horses. Tel: 5-685-5142, E-mail: mabe642@ hotmail.com. Updated: Jan 21, 2008.

Toward the end of the Republican era in Colombia, the Magdalena River started to change its course. Silt levels rose and many branches of the river became impassable by way of the old paddle steamboats. The importance of the river as a major highway diminished and towns formerly at the heart of trade routes became bare-boned and isolated.

Mompós Tour

In contemporary years, the Lower Magdalena has seen its fair share of violence from both paramilitaries and left-wing guerrillas. Barrancabermeja, in particular, has been at the heart struggles. Updated: Jan 21, 2008.

Accommodation quality varies considerably from town to town. Small port towns, such as Puerto Berrío and Puerto Boyacá, offer decent and relatively inexpensive hotels. These are much better than the cheapest, brothel-

Mompós Tour takes tourists from Cartagena to Mompós on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays in a fully air-conditioned minivan. Prices are steep, but if you only have a few precious days, this is a good choice. All the transportation is organized for you. Tel: 5-685-5142. Updated: Jan 21, 2008.

Lower Magdalena Lodging

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lower magdalena

Prior to Spanish occupation, this area was solely inhabited by indigenous tribes. Despite the injustices that have ocurred on their land, the current settlements in this part of the Magdalena River Valley are distinctly defined by their lack of hostility toward intruders.

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Puerto Berrío

like options. Mompós has a selection of overpriced hotels, and a few reasonable places as well. Barrancabermeja is an industrial capital and its hotels, though plentiful, cater to engineers sent to the city on a work ticket. Nonetheless, decent options are possible to find. Updated: Jan 21, 2008.

Puerto Berrío Alt: 125m Pop: 38,000 City Code: 4

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The first thing you notice upon arriving in Puerto Berrío is the staggering heat and humidity. Temperatures average above 30º C (87ºF). Once you have become more accustomed to the dank humidity that leaves everyone covered in a shimmer of sweat, you note the obvious absence of the typical hills. Puerto Berrío and the surrounding region are quite flat. Formerly, Puerto Berrío had greater significance as a transport hub for the rail network, moving coal and other products through Colombia. Now, the railroad service is gone and the town is little more than a vital port on the Magdalena River. All that remains are some forlorn tracks and a historic engine in front of the military base. In the past, Puerto Berrío was renowned for its bawdy whiskerías (brothels) and chicas de la vida alegre (prostitutes). These aspects of the town helped fill the role of transit hub, linking river and rail networks. This is still the case around the port area, where these establishments can still be found. Updated: Nov 26, 2007.

History

On the banks of the Magdalena River and the border between the departments of Antioquia and Santander, Puerto Berrío occupies a region known to Colombians as the Magdalena Medio. It has little in common with the rest of its department, but more in common with other settlements along the Magdalena. Founded in 1875 by Pedro Javier Cisneros, Puerto Berrío’s fate has been inextricably linked to business drawn there by its port and railway hub. In 1925, the town was all but destroyed by a fire. Due to the loss of the railway and the shifting river, Puerto Berrío is no longer the important hub that it once was. Updated: Nov 27, 2007.

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Getting To and Away From Puerto Berrío Bus There is no terminal per se, but all buses come to a halt on the main plaza in Puerto Berrío. This leaves you close to all hotels, banks and restaurants. There are three main transportation companies that make the trip to Puerto Berrío: Cootransmagdalena, Rápido Ochoa (mainly to Medellín) and Rápido Tolima (taxi services).

From Puerto Berrío: Per day

Arrive

Price

6 buses

Bucaramanga

$13

7 buses

Barrancabermeja

1 taxi

Honda

6 taxis

Ibagué

$12.50

26 buses

Medellín

$9-10.50

2 taxis

Puerto Boyaca

River Cootransfluviales Unidos has an office right in the port and runs chalupas (fast boats) to Barrancabermeja (2.5 hours) at 9 a.m. and 2:30 a.m. for $10. Tel: 4-833-3238. Trans Fluvial runs boats from Puerto Berrío to La Sierra at 7:30 a.m., 10:30 a.m., 1:30 p.m., and 4 p.m. Updated: Nov 27, 2007.

Safety in Puerto Berrío

Puerto Berrío is a relatively safe town. As long as you stay away from the port after dark, you should encounter little trouble. The most dangerous moments of any visitor’s trip is the time spent on public transportation. From time to time, the roads to and from Medellín and Barrancabermeja are closed due to military or guerrilla operations in the area. Updated: Nov 27, 2007.

Puerto Berrío Services Tourism Office There is no tourism office in Puerto Berrío, as you would suspect since there is little tourism industry here. Upon asking what there was to see in Puerto Berrío, this traveler received

Puerto Berrío the flummoxing reply from a hotel manager: “In reality there’s nothing.” Money In the Plaza Mayor there is a BBVA with ATMs and an adjacent Bancolombia with similar facilities. Keeping in touch There are plenty of call centers in which to make international calls, as well as three internet cafés. Edetel – in front of the military base. Enter.Net – On Ca. 54 between Cra. 4 and 5. Mundo Digital – On the corner of Ca. 54 and Cra. 5. Medical Pharmacies abound and a recommended clinic is located next door to Bancolombia. Updated: May 15, 2009.

Puerto Berrío Tours

Puerto Berrío Lodging

Puerto Berrío has hotels of all shapes, sizes and costs. Visitors should stay within a few blocks of Plaza Mayor and, if possible, avoid the cheaper options near the port where security comes into question. Many of the cheap port motels rent rooms by the hour. The hotels listed here are credible establishments that do not cater to the rent-by-thehour crowd. Updated: Nov 26, 2007.

Las Golondrinas (ROOM: $15-35) Right on the corner of the main square in Puerto Berrío, this is one of two recommended hotels in town. Rooms come with air conditioning, refrigerator, cable TV and darkened windows to keep out the blazing sunshine. Each room has a private bathroom (without hot water, since it’s unecessary here). Ca. 51 with Cra. 4. Tel: 4-833-4846. Updated: May 25, 2009.

Hotel Las Dos Palmas (ROOM: $20-25) Quite simply one of the best hotels in Puerto Berrío. Located a few blocks from a seedy port area and a few blocks from the main square and its conveniences, Hotel Las Dos Palmas has 20

rooms, all equipped with air conditioning (an absolute necessity in this sweltering town). If you’re arriving by bus, the hotel is four blocks away. Ca. 53, Cra. 2. Tel: 4-8333339 / 3338. Updated: May 19, 2009.

Puerto Berrío Restaurants

Those easily satisfied with an enormous and freshly blended fruit juice from a market stall ($0.50) will be more than happy in Puerto Berrío. There are many levels of restaurants to choose from, but keep in mind that the quality does not match that of Medellín. Cheap eats and lunchtime deals abound. Updated: Nov 26, 2007.

Chara (ENTREES: $2) Located beneath the Residencias Bahia, about a block back from the town square, Restaurante Chara is a functional and clean establishment. It won’t win any Michelin stars, but it will provide the traveler with a hearty and reasonably priced meal. A breakfast of calentao-rice, beans and meat goes for only $1.25 and you can enjoy a set lunch for roughly $2. Ca. 52, Cra. 4. Updated: Mar 27, 2008.

Las Dos Palmas (ENTREES: $2) On the ground floor of the hotel by the same name, this restaurant is a decent option for a quick breakfast. Lunch is a set menu ($2) and drinks are an additional $0.60. The restaurant is clean, the staff are attentive, the fans go some way to cooling you off and the TV blares at all hours. Ca. 53 and Cra. 2. Tel: 4-833-3339. Updated: May 19, 2009.

Fresas y Moras Frutería Ever tried nispero, uchuva or corozo? Come to Fresas y Moras Frutería. Here you can get your hands on a fine, fresh squeezed fruit juice, fruit salad or even a breakfast omelet. The staff at this street-corner restaurant are helpful and accommodating and will advise you on the fruits in season. Cra. 7, 5-18. Tel: 4-833-2679. Updated: May 25, 2009.

El Portón de los Frijoles The extensive menu and the quality of the food here have few rivals in town. Sit out in the still, humid air while sipping a cold beer and attacking a steak, or retreat to the dining room with soothing air conditioning. The restaurant specializes in grilled food. There is an emphasis on beef and fish dishes. The grilled river fish is particularly appetizing. Ca. 49, behind Bancolombia. Tel: 4-8327473. Updated: May 19, 2009.

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There are plenty of side-trips and activities from Puerto Berrío. Go to Puerto Olaya, where you can enjoy a plate of fish served with fried macho plantain and rice. El Zuam has one of the most beautiful places to swim. Take a nice trip in a lancha on the Magdalena river or just relax with a beer at La Malena.

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Casa Vieja On the corner next to Bancolombia, Casa Vieja sets out to be the elegant dining option in Puerto Berrío. It does reasonably well, too. The restaurant boasts shaded tables out front and a very keen eye for detail and decor. The dishes are not cheap, but you will find them to your liking if you are into seafood. Almost all speciality dishes include some sort of river fish, bagre in particular. Ca. 50 beside Bancolombia. Updated: Mar 27, 2008.

Barrancabermeja

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Alt: 126m Pop: 300,000 City Code: 7 Barrancabermeja is first and foremost an oil town. This detail is not lost on the visitor as a massive refinery looms large over this sweltering settlement on the Magdalena River. Temperatures rarely dip below 30ºC (85ºF) and are more often edging near 40ºC (105ºF). Barrancabermeja was the first city in Colombia with an international airport, since its refinery drew in prospectors from all over the world. To this day, the citizens talk of three different Barrancabermejas. The first being the refinery which is pretty much its own city, the second being the leafy and pleasant middleclass neighborhoods and the third being the poor barrios on the other side of the tracks. Barrancabermeja is a great place to mix it up with the locals. People are friendly and accommodating. Visitors will find themselves invited on day trips to nearby ciénagas. Swim in the cooling waters, enjoy various aquatic sports and lunch on freshwater fish. Updated: Feb 08, 2008.

History

Although Barrancabermeja has many remnants of small indigenous settlements, the town as it is now known was not created until the Spanish came along. Explorer Gonzalo Jimenez de Quesada named the area on account of the ravines (barranca means ravine in Spanish). Nowadays, Barrancabermeja is commonly called Barranca. The city expanded rapidly with the oil boom of the 1920s. During this time, Standard Oil moved in to occupy the highly profitable area. In addition to its petroleum history, the city has long been in the crossfire of the longrunning Colombian conflict with the ELN.

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This guerilla organization staked their claim to the region in the 1970s and 1980s, and later in the 1990s when the FARC arrived. In 1998, Barrancabermeja suffered a massacre signaling the paramilitary forces’ intent on making their presence felt. Updated: Feb 08, 2008.

When to Go

Barrancabermeja is inextricably associated with oppressive heat. Temperatures rarely drop below 30ºC (85ºF). The rainy season in September and October hardly alters the heat. Holidays and Festivals April - Reina Internacional de Petróleo pageant. August - Fiesta del Petróleo. Updated: Feb 08, 2008.

Getting To and Away From Barrancabermeja

Bus There is no bus terminal but most bus companies have offices near or on Carrera 6 in downtown.

From Barrancabermeja: To:

Departure

Price

Bucaramanga

every half hour

varies

Puerto Berrío

5:30 a.m., 6 a.m.

varies

Barranquilla

7 p.m., 9:30 p.m.

$35 -40

Bogotá

6 a.m., 10 a.m., 2:30 p.m., 9.30 p.m. 10 p.m. 10.30 p.m.

$35

Cartagena

7 a.m., 7 p.m. 8:30 p.m. 9 p.m.

$40 -46

Maicao

7 p.m.

$35

Cali

7 a.m., 3 p.m., 7 p.m. and 9 p.m.

$30

Medellín

8 a.m., 2 p.m., 10 p.m.

$35

Train A functioning train service runs from Barrancabermeja to Puerto Berrío daily at 5 a.m. and 1 p.m. Carriages are small and the journey takes three hours ($7.50). Tel: 7-602-7684.

Barrancabermeja River Since Barrancabermeja is on the River Magdalena, transport on the river is vital. Journeys are long and expensive. The two companies are Cootransfluviales and Transportes San Pablo. Puerto Berrio – 6:30 a.m. ($10). Gamarra – 7 a.m. El Banco (connection from here to Mompós) –five hours ($24). San Pablo – 9 a.m., 10 a.m., 12 p.m., 12:30 p.m. Magangue (connections to Mompós) – 6 a.m., nine hours ($40). Updated: Feb 08, 2008.

Safety in Barrancabermeja

Barrancabermeja Services

Tourism Office There is no official tourism office. For further information contact Corporacion Mixta de Promocion de Santander (Carrera 19, 35-02, Tel: 7-630-7589) or the Instituto Municipal de Cultura (Calle 30, 26-117, Tel: 7-634-1132). Money Banks are located throughout the city and cash machines are easily accessible. Keeping in Touch There are internet cafés throughout every district of the city. Medical Clínica Primero de Mayo, Cra. 21a, 47-30. Tel: 7-622-2468. Shopping All things considered, there is very little to shop for in Barrancabermeja. Due to the heat, sunblock, a hat or after-sun cream are easily found around downtown. Updated: Feb 08, 2008.

Things to See and Do

If you find youself in Barrancabermeja, there are probably one of three reasons why you have ventured to this oil town:

You are an engineer or an oil prospector brought in on a business gig. You are making the incredible journey by river from the Colombian coast to the interior or vice versa. You are lost or stranded. Despite all the negative comments you might have heard about the city—the oppressive heat or the ever-present silhouette of the refinery—Barrancabermeja has a few attractions to keep tourists occupied. The surrounding countryside, fed by the waters from the Magdalena River, is surprisingly beautiful. The large lakes nearby are good for day trips. Take a dip in the cool waters, waterski, jet ski or dine on fantastic fish dishes. During weekends, you’ll find that most barramejos descend upon these areas to escape from the heat. Updated: Feb 08, 2008.

Oil Museum Walk around the port of Barrancabermeja and the importance of the oil industry in Colombia becomes clear when you see the dozens of oil rigs that line the coast and the statue of Christ dedicated to oil. The Oil Museum (Museo del Petroleo), reportedly the only one of its kind in Latin America, gives a concrete idea about the city with the largest oil refinery in the country, the history of oil and the current progress of the oil industry. Look for the museum on the road to the center of Barrancabermeja, about 15 minutes out of town and right near where the crude oil refining process begins. Updated: May 15, 2009.

Ciénaga San Silvestre Likened to a freshwater “ocean,” the Ciénaga San Silvestre spans out from Barrancabermeja to as far as Puerto Wilches making it a vast body of water measuring nine square km. On the banks of San Silvestre, a 10-minute drive from Barrancabermeja, various water sports resorts have sprung up. At these family-friendly places you can swim in the delectable waters of the ciénaga, waterski, parascend and fish. Normally there is a beach volleyball court set up, a live band playing on the weekend and spaces to set up your own BBQ. Too much action? Take a hammock, string it up in the shade of some trees and have

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lower magdalena

Since the conflict has been forced out of the city limits and into other areas, Barrancabermeja has become a pretty safe place. However, visitors must use common sense. Travelers should be especially vigilant when withdrawing money from ATMs. There has been a recent surge of motorcycle-riding thieves who follow those who just took out cash and rob them as they exit their taxi. Updated: Feb 08, 2008.

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The River Train

“Peto, peto,” Doña Sorelly calls. She opens her milk can, steam from the corn drink escaping into this slightly cool morning. The toot of the autoferro’s horn warns of our imminent passage. We leave Barrancabermeja, entering this new day swaying, occasionally jolting down narrow-gauge tracks. Wheels upon rails sharply clack and rumble as we pass homes with still-sleeping families. Mango trees scrape our sides. The cloud-silhouetted dawn is just beginning to lighten. In the distance, on the banks of the Río Magdalena, refinery stack smoke and derrick flames billow. Lightning streaks the western sky. A thin rain sheens off bronze cacao leaves. This landscape begins to define itself as waterlilied swamps and stands of bamboo. Cattle rise, the dew and drizzle glistening on their hides. Passengers come, cargo goes. Slowly these villages and settlements we visit are awakening, stalls are mounted in the light of lamps. Garzas rise from their trees, white blips winging across the gray sky. There’s a hollow clatter as we cross over bridges above small rivers flowing to that great Río. Workers board, workers leave, it’s just another day to labor. This land, so flat, begins to undulate. The rain ceases, though the day is yet subdued. Thin-limbed, potbellied children stand in their golden-lit doorways, lethargically watching us shudder past.

lower magdalena

After Puerto Olaya, the Río Magdalena comes into view. Soldiers patrol the bridge we soon cross. The river glimmers silver and brown beneath us, its sandbars exposed. Swooshing, swaying, clattering past shack homes we arrive to our destination, Puerto Berrío. Check the Getting To and Away from Barrancabermeja section for the train’s latest schedule, or call the offices. Tel: 7-602-7684. a serious siesta in the breeze coming off the ciénaga. To keep costs down you could bring your own picnic. Make sure to bring plenty of sun protection and watch out for freshwater stingrays near the shore in dry season. Catch a taxi from downtown Barrancabermeja. Updated: May 14, 2009.

Barrancabermeja Lodging

The accommodation options in Barrancabermeja go from luxurious to seedy. At the high end of the scale, businessmen at the behest of oil companies lounge by swimming pools in the finer establishments. The next rung of hotels cater to the contracted engineers brought in for short-term jobs, these are typically decent and efficient places. Finally, there are the cheaper options downtown in the city’s Zona Rosa. Many are just fine, but the majority cater to people renting rooms by the hour. Updated: Feb 08, 2008.

San Cristobal (ROOM: $11-24) Although the San Cristobal is in the city’s Zona Rosa, the respectable hotel is definitely separate from the many seedy options. The price for one of the 40 rooms is cheaper if you choose a fan over air conditioning. The rooms are generally clean. All come with cable TV, a cooling option and telephone. To get there, catch any bus

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heading downtown and ask to be dropped off on Calle 50. Ca. 50, 12-36. Tel: 7-622-4346, Fax: 7-621-1163. Updated: Dec 19, 2007. Hotel Cacique (ROOM: $36-49) This hotel is really nothing more than a location for businessmen coming through Barrancabermeja. Rooms are standard, you could be anywhere, with TV, air conditioning and private bathrooms. Catch a taxi to have the driver negotiate his way through the myriad of streets in Barrancabermeja. Ca. 47, 1-14. Tel: 7-622-3350 / 621-4714, Fax: 7-622-6672, E-mail: hotelcaciquebarranca@ yahoo.es. Updated: May 13, 2009.

San Carlos (ROOM: $51-62) Just down the hill and around the corner from the Pipaton, the San Carlos is another hotel aimed at the engineering crowd. Each of the 30 rooms and seven apartments have air conditioning, cable TV, minibar, WiFi and a private bathroom. The San Carlos is functional but lacks character and feeling, it does exactly what is says on its card nothing more. It also loses customers to the Pipaton since they have the pool. Ca. 49, 5-104. Tel: 7-6022010, Fax: 7-622-4372, E-mail: reservas@ suhotelsancarlos.com, URL: www.suhotelsancarlos.com. Updated: May 4, 2009.

Mompós

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Carrera 10

(ROOM: $55-75) Located in the center of town, the Bachue underwent a complete renovation in August 2007 on everything down to tiling in the bathrooms and linen on the beds. The entry still has a 1970s feel to it, but the 40 rooms are top class , offering guests WiFi, air conditioning, a private bathroom and a refrigerator. Breakfast is included, and weekend rates are significantly lowered, as hotel occupancy drops considerably. Cra. 17, 49-12. Tel: 7-622-2599. Updated: May 14, 2009.

Often just referred to as “la 10,” Barrancabermeja’s Zona Rosa positively buzzes on Fridays and Saturdays. The pizzeria/bar, La Vía Lactea, has an open- air section, unintrusive music and is an ideal happy hour spot. The following clubs are all found on Carrera 10 and close to the Parque de la Vida: Amnesia, Evolution, Cucaracho, Seven, Amatista and La Ciudad. All of these play a variety of music and, for most, entry is free and beer is cheap! Cra. 10. Updated: Dec 19, 2007.

Pipaton

Café Bohemia

(ROOM: $65-85) This colonial-style building stands tall, giving great views over the Magdalena River. Once you stroll through its welcoming doors, you’ll note the swimming pool and the air-conditioned lobby. All rooms have WiFi, air conditioning, private bathroom, TV with cable, refrigerator and breakfast included. If coming in from the airport, call the hotel in advance and they will have a taxi pick you up free of charge. Av. del Rio, 47-16. Tel: 7-602-0250, Fax: 7-6020258, E-mail: hotelpipaton@reservashoteleras.com.co Updated: May 18, 2009.

Intimate places like Café Bohemia are beginning to spring up, diversifying the options available here. Small tables line the narrow establishment but take nothing away from its ambience. Come for a cocktail or a coffee or try some of their sandwiches. Café Bohemia may just be a perfect escape from Barrancebermeja within the confines of the city. Ca. 49, 19-30. Tel: 7-611-2575. E-mail: angelaperez@ hotmail.com. Updated: May 25, 2009.

Barrancabermeja Nightlife

The Zona Rosa, a string of clubs downtown, constantly produces loud vallenato music and salsa. Barrancabermeja does not have the same level of nightlife as Medellín or Bogotá, but prices are low and the entertainment value is premium. Updated: Feb 08, 2008.

Barrancabermeja Restaurants

The best food in Barrancabermeja comes fresh from the water. Head to the river banks, not far from the Cacique Hotel, to find a number of set-ups preparing delectable bagre and bocachica fish dishes. Go downtown to find anything else to eat.

Avenida del RÍo Avenida del Río is a great stroll for anyone with an appetite. A line of unnamed and numbered stalls along the riverfront specialize in local delicacies like sancocho de pescado, bagre and bocachica fish dishes. Don’t be put off by the backdrop of the massive refinery; this is the place to come to enjoy fish with the locals. On weekends, all of the stands are full to capacity. Choose a stand that suits you and settle in for a sumptuous feast. Updated: Dec 19, 2007.

Mompós Alt: 18m Pop: 31,000 City Code: 5 To visitors and locals alike, Mompós represents an older, forgotten, colonial Colombia. It is a city of tradition, family ties, and a mix of myth and religious piety. The culture remains largely untouched by the conflict found throughout the rest of the country. Some find it quiet, some find it rowdy, Mompós can be what you make it. Two hundred kilometers (124 mi) east of Cartagena, this island town is difficult to reach. However, it is well worth the effort. Colonial Mompós has been an UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1995. It is comprised of three long, whitewashed streets, which run parallel to the Magdalena River. Mompós’ stifling heat and backwater status do not create the most favorable place for tourists. However, anyone interested in colonial Colombia and the European Diaspora, or in observing one of Latin America’s most austere Semana Santa celebrations, should consider a visit. Updated: Feb 18, 2008.

Mompós History

Like similar colonial settlements, Mompós came about due to its favorable location along the Magdalena. The absence of unfriendly indigenous tribes also helped foster

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lower magdalena

Hotel Bachue

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Mompós

a successful colony. Mompós grew considerably during the colonial era, when the river was the fastest route to Honda, and subsequently Bogotá. It is said that more money passed through Mompós than through Cartagena, thanks to the bootlegging of precious metals, tobacco and alcohol to and from the Ecuadorian port of Guayaquil.

boost during December and January from family members who return for the holidays and tourists coming from the coast. Aside from these times, life in Mompós is pretty slow. The wet season stretches over the months of April, May, and September through October. Heavy downpours can keep normally high temperatures in the upper 20ºC (70ºF). Outside of these months, Mompós is hot and dry.

Getting To and Away from Mompós

Mompós is not easy to reach. However, through a combination of buses, taxis, water transportation and maybe a 4X4, any traveler can make it.

From the Caribbean Coast:

When to Go

The fastest (but most expensive) way to get to Mompós is to fly into Cartagena or Barranquilla and organize an interurban taxi to Magangue. From there, catch a motorized canoe across the river, then head on from Bodega to Mompós.

Semana Santa is Mompós’ one real high season. The streets are filled with Nazarenes and tourists from throughout Colombia. The normally sleepy town also receives an economic

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3 Planet Net B1

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Sleeping 4 5 6 7

Casa Hotel La Casona B1 Casa Hotel Villa de Mompox A1 Hostal Dona Manuela A1 La Casa Amarilla B1

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The 6th of August marks the Independence of Mompós. Around this date, revelers enjoy more than a few cold ones while watching the rodeos or listening to the booming street music. Updated: Feb 18, 2008.

The aforementioned are high points in the history of this colonial wonderland, but all this came to an end when the river somewhat changed its course and fluvial travel became less important. Updated: Feb 18, 2008.

Calle 16

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Simón Bolívar’s numerous stays in Mompós create another historical connection to Latin American history. While there, Bolívar raised an army of willing mompósino volunteers to aid in his march on Caracas. It is rumored that Gabriel García Márquez built this history into “The General and His Labyrinth” and possibly into his other books as well. Bolívar once proclaimed, “If to Caracas I owe my life, to Mompós I owe my glory.”

Mompós Taxi From Cartagena to / from Magangue, they leave when full and take three hours ($15-20). A taxi hired from Bodega to / from Mompós will take one hour ($3). Canoe Motorized canoe from Magangue to / from Bodega: 25 minutes ($3). Bus Buses leave from Mompós every day to Barranquilla, Cartagena and Sincelejo with connections to Tolú, Coveñas and Medellín. If you are stuck in Mompós and have to leave, the best bet is to get to Magangue and try your luck there, since there are more options. Copetran—Ca. del Cementerio, Cra. 3-74. Tel: 5-685-5768.

Omega and Copetrans have direct buses to El Banco. Although they say this, the buses do not reach all the way to El Banco. The direct bus takes 16–18 hours, leaves Bogotá at night and drops travelers at the edge of a lake. (The reason is that the long-promised highway connecting to El Banco is currently still under construction through a swamp, and has yet to actually connect to El Banco.) At the lake, hop into a motorized canoe ($2.50) to El Banco. Then, head to the market roughly 25m away and jump into a waiting 4x4 that runs the arduous 2-3 hour journey ($10-12) over bad roads to Mompós. Also, there are direct minivans that run from Mompós to Cartagena, the price varies ($3040) depending on the season. River Travel From Barrancabermeja and other points on the Magdalena River, there are infrequent departures to Magangue and El Banco. Be sure to ask around, since the river journey will be far more pleasant than one by road. The Colombian government has stated its intent to make the waterways in this region passable, so there should be more available long-distance river travel options in the future. Updated: Feb 18, 2008.

Safety in Mompós

Mompós itself is incredibly safe. Imagine a town where, once the sun has set, entire

families bring rocking chairs onto their front porches to sit with doors left open and chat with anyone around. Due to its secluded location, Mompós has been unaffected by many of Colombia’s ills. Updated: Feb 18, 2008.

Mompós Services Tourism Office There is no official tourist office around these parts, but for more information about Mompós ask at the Museum on Calle del Medio or at the Alcaldia. Tel: 5-685-5738. Money There are three ATMs in town. All are on the corner of the Parque Bolívar and the Camellon del Colegio. The ATMs provided by the Banco Popular accept all cards. The ATM provided by BBVA accepts Visa. NOTE: During Semana Santa, demand for cash is at a premium and ATMs have been known to run out. Keeping in Touch There is an internet café on the Alberrada, across the corner from the El Éxito supermarket. There is another, Planet Net, with telephones and computers on the Calle del Medio, 12-06. Both charge $1 per hour. Medical Be aware that if you are ever in dire need of serious medical attention, there is every possibility that it will not be available in Mompós. However, you can take a chance at the pharmacies and clinics in the Plaza del Mercado. Shopping Taller y Joyería Jimmy This shop offers some of the finest metal ornaments in Mompós. Ca. del Medio, Cra. 2, 15-86. Tel: 5-685-5383. Joyería William Vargas This shop is interesting, but has the same jewelry as the other typical stores. Tel: 5-684-0453. Updated: Feb 18, 2008.

Things to See and Do

If you are not making your way to this river city for the major Semana Santa, it is good to remember that a visit to Mompós is not all about seeing and doing. The activities are slim pickings—a trip here is more about soaking up the atmosphere. The typical tourist activies include a tour of the ornate churches and a telling of the stories relating back to the mysterious Masons.

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To really get a glimpse at the unique local beauty, Mompós lends itself to rising early and taking a walk. Start with looking for the howler monkeys in the park, then stroll down Calle del Medio, with a detour at the Plaza del Mercado to observe the early-morning activity. Next, head back along the shady riverfront, where the wealthier residents live in the Portales de la Marquesa. Tours of the Ciénaga are offered at the ludicrously hot hour of 2 p.m. Some establishments rent bicycles. For those interested, cockfights are also held around town on most weekends. Updated: Feb 18, 2008.

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Semana Santa in Mompós For one of the most unforgettable Semana Santa experiences in Colombia, head straight to Mompós! Not only are the parades austere in their religious significance and the floats ornate, but the willingness of the people to be involved and pitch in is legendary. Nazarene pilgrims dressed in heavy smocks sweat uncontrollably in the heat as they jostle for favorable positions underneath the weighty religious artifacts. Whole families parade to the old cemetery to light candles and place them on the tombs of their dear departed while a band plays a somber tune. Later in the week, budding artists decorate the streets in chalk and sawdust etchings of religious figures and events only to later see them destroyed underfoot by yet another procession. Coming to Mompós at any time of year is special but it is doubly so during this period, when you have the opportunity to see the seven immaculate churches in all their pomp and majesty and to observe one of Colombia’s best-preserved sites at its finest. Updated: May 15, 2009.

Museums and Churches Mompós has a few beautiful churches and two museums. The Museo Cultural (Admission $1.50; Mon – Sat 9 a.m. – noon) houses a collection of religious art and memorabilia related to Simon Bolívar. The Casa de la Cultura (Admission $.50; Mon – Fri 8 a.m. – 5 p.m.) is a museum of Mompós history.

Mompós Lodging

In addition to its hard-to-reach location, Mompós has suffered at the hands of hoteliers who take advantage of the distance to other tourist sites and other hotel options. Room prices here are steep, even in the off season. That said, service is good and most places

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offer clean accommodations topped off with air conditioning and efficient services. Be advised: Semana Santa is Mompós’ only true high season. During this time, hotel prices often double or increase more than the norm. Rooms book up fast, though locals have been known to rent out their spare rooms. Book accommodation in advance. If possible, book your bus tickets in advance as well. Updated: Feb 18, 2008.

La Casa Amarilla (ROOM: $10-50) Well overdue, there is finally a budget option for travelers in Mompos. La Casa Amarilla is a large, renovated colonial mansion with views over the River Magdalena. The kioskos are in a great place, out where you can enjoy an ice cold beer and watch the howler monkeys. Prices, as you would expect, increase somewhat during Semana Santa (Mompós’ only high season), but the rest of the year they are reasonable. The mansion consists of two dormitories (three- and four-people rooms) each with private bathroom and two private rooms with double beds (one with en-suite). The British owner has installed a TV and DVD player in the second entry room, renovated the garden, put in a communal kitchen and has done his best to make this a place where you want to kick back and chill for a few days. If you come in on the Unitransco bus this will drop you right outside La Casa Amarilla. Coming in from El Banco head to the Albarrada (the road by the river) and follow it upstream to La Iglesia Santa Barbara and one block beyond is the hostel. Cra. 1, 13-59, La Albarrada with Santa Barbara. Tel: 301-362-7065 / 5-6856326. E-mail: lacasaamarillamompos@gmail. com. URL: www.lacasaamarillamompos.com. Updated: May 13, 2009.

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V!VA online Review

la casa amarilla

The place is clean and ordered and the staff super friendly. Richard is a fountain of knowledge on Mompos’ history.

April 29, 2009

Casa Hotel Villa de Mompox

(ROOM: $25-80) Perhaps best described as one step up from backpacker comfort and charm, the Villa de Mompox sits on the edge of everything colonial in Mompox and one block back from the Magdalena River. Prices are probably a bit steep for what is on offer,

Mompós but the owners cannot be faulted in creating an “alternative” lodging to the other more expensive options in this town. All rooms come with air conditioning, ceiling fans and private bathrooms. A comfortable communal area for guests to relax is lacking, but in all, if nowhere cheaper is available and you are on a budget, this is probably your best option. The hotel sleeps up to 43 on its premises and across the road keep a couple of other rooms for the overflow that inevitably happens during Semana Santa. The bus drops you off next to the Iglesia Santa Barbara and from there you should head one block as if away from the river and you will find the hotel. Ca. Real del Medio, 14-108. Tel: 5-685-5208 / 311848-4324, E-mail: casahotelvillademompox@yahoo.com. Updated: May 13, 2009.

Casa Hotel La Casona

Hostal Doña Manuela (ROOM: $62-85) This 28-room behemoth of a colonial mansion sits proudly in the center of Mompós’ main street, the Calle del Medio. Routinely used as a location for wealthy Momposinos to hold events such as weddings, it is quite simply the best and most elegant place to stay in town. Prices are not low, but you get what you are paying for: air conditioning, cable TV, elegance and a swimming pool which is an excellent addition in the Mompós heat. The owners also own a finca on the outskirts of Mompós where guests can choose to take horse rides or swim in their other pool. For those not interested in paying the lofty prices to stay at the Hostal Doña Manuela, the establishment offers a day pass at $10 that allows one use of the pool and some free drinks for the whole day, or you can purchase a pool pass for $3. The hotel’s rooms vary from doubles to as many as 6 beds (maximum capacity 90 people). Head to the Calle del Medio and the hostel is smack bang in the middle. Ca. Real del Medio, 17-41. Tel: 5-685-5142, E-mail: hostaldonamanuela@ hotmail.com. Updated: May 13, 2009.

Mompós Restaurants

Restaurants in Mompós offer Creole meals as well as standard regional fare. Be aware that Mompós is found lacking for salads or lighter fare. Most dishes consist of chicken or beef, though one place does offer crepes. If you are looking for more unusual foods, then Mompós might be the ideal destination. Locals here eat just about everything including sea turtles (Galápagos/ icotea), peccary (ponche/chiguiro) and the occasional iguana. Along the riverfront, on the Alberrada, bars are lined up side by side. Each blasts different genres of music. The pick of the bunch and the most historic is the Luna de Mompox. Updated: Feb 18, 2008.

Asadero Patio Bonito Asadero Patio Bonito is cheap and cheerful. This restaurant stands out from the crowd thanks to its good-size portions and inexpensive nature. The dirt floors are hardly noticeable, since the place is only open at night and the lighting is dim. All platters cost about $3. Don’t forget to specify whether you want beef or chicken. Opposite the Hotel Villa de Mompox, on the Calle Real del Medio. Updated: Feb 06, 2008.

Dely Bross Run by an efficient and friendly paisa (a native of Medellín), the Dely Bross is an unassuming restaurant near the Parque Bolívar. Locals must truly enjoy the owner’s decent-sized platters of grilled chicken, beef and river fish, since almost every lunchtime and evening the crowd is near capacity. The Dely Bross seems to do an outstanding job. Ca. 18, 2B - 59 and El Camellon del Colegio, opposite the Colegio Pinillos. Updated: May 19, 2009.

Crepes Helados Pan D’ la Villa The service is slow and the staff aren’t very friendly. That aside, Crepes Helados Pan D’ la Villa’s location, right at the heart of Real Calle del Medio, makes it an ideal spot to break from the stifling heat. Enjoy a light crepe lunch at the only place where crepes are available in Mompós. Wash it all down with a sweet, chilled jugo de corozo. The site can seat up to 40, but keep in mind that service slows considerably with larger crowds. Ca. Real del Medio 17-51. Updated: Feb 07, 2008.

Luna de Mompox As the oldest and most established bar in Mompós, the Luna de Mompox is a classy spot. On the corner of the Alberrada de los

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(ROOM: $25-85) As one of the leading hotels in Mompós the expectation is that La Casona should be a paradise. It is not. The rooms are dark, the furniture could use some updating, and the communal areas need work. For too long it seems the establishment has been resting on its laurels knowing full well that a steady stream of tourists would continue visiting during Semana Santa. While the staff are helpful and friendly, you can do better for the price. Cra. 2, 18-58. Tel: 5-685-5307, E-mail: eusedeal@yahoo.es. Updated: May 13, 2009.

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Angeles, it has a prime spot that overlooks the Magdalena. This is a great place for a happy hour that could extend into an impromptu late-night party.

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A few other bars along the Alberrada; Bar D’ Rumba and Mango Biche Bar—both recent additions intent on drowning one another out with loud music. It will be interesting to see whether they make the cut. Alberrada de los Angeles. Updated: Feb 07, 2008.

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Lower Magdalena River Valley

This chapter is part of

2nd Edition July 2009

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Lower Magdalena

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Lower Magdalena

History

When to Go

Safety in Lower Magdalena

Things to See and Do

Mompós Tour

Lower Magdalena Lodging

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Puerto Berrío Alt: 125m Pop: 38,000 City Code: 4

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History

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From Puerto Berrío: Per day

Arrive

Price

6 buses

Bucaramanga

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Barrancabermeja

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Honda

6 taxis

Ibagué

$12.50

26 buses

Medellín

$9-10.50

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Puerto Boyaca

Safety in Puerto Berrío

Puerto Berrío Tours

Puerto Berrío Lodging

Puerto Berrío Restaurants

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History

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When to Go

Getting To and Away From Barrancabermeja

Bus There is no bus terminal but most bus companies have offices near or on Carrera 6 in downtown.

From Barrancabermeja: To:

Departure

Price

Bucaramanga

every half hour

varies

Puerto Berrío

5:30 a.m., 6 a.m.

varies

Barranquilla

7 p.m., 9:30 p.m.

$35 -40

Bogotá

6 a.m., 10 a.m., 2:30 p.m., 9.30 p.m. 10 p.m. 10.30 p.m.

$35

Cartagena

7 a.m., 7 p.m. 8:30 p.m. 9 p.m.

$40 -46

Maicao

7 p.m.

$35

Cali

7 a.m., 3 p.m., 7 p.m. and 9 p.m.

$30

Medellín

8 a.m., 2 p.m., 10 p.m.

$35

Train A functioning train service runs from Barrancabermeja to Puerto Berrío daily at 5 a.m. and 1 p.m. Carriages are small and the journey takes three hours ($7.50). Tel: 7-602-7684.

Safety in Barrancabermeja

Barrancabermeja Services

Things to See and Do

If you find youself in Barrancabermeja, there are probably one of three reasons why you have ventured to this oil town:

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The River Train

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Mompós

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Pipaton

Café Bohemia

Barrancabermeja Nightlife

Barrancabermeja Restaurants

Mompós History

Like similar colonial settlements, Mompós came about due to its favorable location along the Magdalena. The absence of unfriendly indigenous tribes also helped foster

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Hotel Bachue

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Getting To and Away from Mompós

Mompós is not easy to reach. However, through a combination of buses, taxis, water transportation and maybe a 4X4, any traveler can make it.

From the Caribbean Coast:

When to Go

Semana Santa is Mompós’ one real high season. The streets are filled with Nazarenes and tourists from throughout Colombia. The normally sleepy town also receives an economic

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3 Planet Net B1

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Sleeping 4 5 6 7

Casa Hotel La Casona B1 Casa Hotel Villa de Mompox A1 Hostal Dona Manuela A1 La Casa Amarilla B1

Carrera

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Safety in Mompós

Mompós itself is incredibly safe. Imagine a town where, once the sun has set, entire

Things to See and Do

Buy more chapters and books at http://shop.vivatravelguides.com

lower magdalena

Coming from the Colombia’s interior and Bogotá:

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206

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Mompós Lodging

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“ ”

V!VA online Review

la casa amarilla

The place is clean and ordered and the staff super friendly. Richard is a fountain of knowledge on Mompos’ history.

April 29, 2009

Casa Hotel Villa de Mompox

Casa Hotel La Casona

Mompós Restaurants

Luna de Mompox As the oldest and most established bar in Mompós, the Luna de Mompox is a classy spot. On the corner of the Alberrada de los

Buy more chapters and books at http://shop.vivatravelguides.com

lower magdalena

207

208

Mompós

Angeles, it has a prime spot that overlooks the Magdalena. This is a great place for a happy hour that could extend into an impromptu late-night party.

lower magdalena