V105: Special Digital Edition

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SPRING PREVIEW 2017

SPECIAL DIGITAL EDITION LILY

PHOTOGRAPHED BY

INEZ & VINOODH

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V105 Mario Testino Inez & Vinoodh Steven Klein Hedi Slimane Robbie Spencer Tom Guinness Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele Chelsea Handler Mark Peckmezian Jenai Chin Philippe Jarrigeon Clare Byrne Matthew Porter Mark Abrahams Chris Rhodes Katie Burnett Victoire Simonney Simon Pavan Therese Aldgard Nick Remsen Nell Beram Whitney Mallett

EDITORIAL EDITOR-IN-CHIEF / CREATIVE DIRECTOR Stephen Gan EDITOR Joseph Akel MANAGING EDITOR Nancy Gillen SENIOR EDITOR Joshua Lyon CONTRIBUTING SENIOR EDITOR Priya Rao DIGITAL EDITOR William Defebaugh PHOTO EDITOR Nicola Kast BOOKINGS EDITOR Sara Zion CONTRIBUTING EDITOR, ENTERTAINMENT Greg Krelenstein / Starworks EDITOR-AT-LARGE Derek Blasberg CONTRIBUTING EDITORS James Franco Gigi Hadid Valerio Innella ASSOCIATE DIGITAL EDITOR Ian David Monroe COPY EDITORS Karly Alderfer Svetlana Kitto RESEARCH EDITORS Jy Murphy Jennifer Geddes ASSISTANT TO THE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Raf Tillis

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CAROLYN WEARS MARC JACOBS

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START THE YEAR OUT WITH A BANG!

A great poet once wrote, “Last year’s words belong Illustrated’s “Swimsuit Issue” that defied conventional to last year’s language, and next year’s words await standards of beauty. In addition to an edgy, urban another voice.” If that's the case, consider V105 our vision shot by Steven Klein and styled by Robbie rebel yell. Since language is both visual and aural, Spencer, Graham talks with close friend Chelsea we've always taken to heart the task of pairing unique Handler, offering a frank and hilarious discussion on voices with Spring fashion's unveiling, and we've com- the subject of weight and its perception in popular piled a checklist of the muses who demand—and culture. deserve—to be seen and heard in the new year.

While some voices speak to us, others are music To kick things off, some of today’s greatest models to our ears. Singer Dua Lipa is on track to take 2017 make their marks in a provocative fantasy showcasing by storm with the upcoming release of her self-titled the Sailor Jerry-inspired designs of tattoo artist Jenai debut album. Following the chart-topping success of Chin. As V’s editor-at-large Derek Blasberg notes, what her hit singles “Hotter than Hell” and “Blow Your Mind sets these women apart is their spirit of independence (Mwah),” Lipa’s unique blend of confessional lyrics and and conviction. Shot by Mario Testino and styled by a down-to-earth personality reveal a pop star looking fashion editor Paul Cavaco, the phrase "body language" to break the mold. Photographed by Mario Testino has never been more apt. and styled by Tom Guinness, Lipa channels a modern For 16-year-old singer-songwriter Noah Cyrus, vision of Cher, an icon of independence like no other. being heard comes naturally. Growing up with father Throughout the issue, V showcases the best of Billy Ray and older sister Miley, the youngest of the Spring fashion, but for an even deeper dive, photogprodigious Cyrus clan is poised to embark on her own rapher Mark Peckmezian and Tom Guinness highlight musical journey. Photographed by Inez & Vinoodh, some of the boldest pieces, starring model-to-watch Cyrus opens up to us for an intimate look at an art- Cara Taylor. Finally, we’re excited to introduce the first ist determined to march to the beat of her own drum. installment of Hedi Slimane’s ongoing portrait series, Speaking of refusal to compromise, model, entre- “New York Diary,” an intimate ode to the individuals preneur, and body-positive activist Ashley Graham who have left a lasting mark on the city V calls home. turned heads in a racy Lane Bryant campaign, There’s no better way to begin a new year—and the which was banned by several TV networks. She voices we will find in it—than to look to those who live also appeared on a history-making cover of Sports life decidedly on their own terms. MR. V

redemption.com

NOW ON VMAGAZINE.COM GET INKED Mario Testino photographs today’s top models as they pose with the ultimate statement accessory for our V105 cover story.

HOTTER THAN HELL AHEAD OF THE CURVE Step into Ashley Graham’s changing room as she gets fitted for her shoot with Steven Klein.

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Clockwise, from top left: Kendall Jenner and Dua Lipa filmed by MARIOTESTINO+; Ashley Graham filmed by Luca Repola and Alex Morrison

Get an exclusive look at Dua Lipa’s on-set transformation (and impromptu performance)

by Mario Testino.

CONTENTS

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46 G G

78 G B K G B K

Fran Lebowitz dishes with Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, Rosemary's Baby turns 50, and Annette Bening and Mike Mills talk 20th Century Women

Fortune truly favors the bold, as these six up-and-comers show in Spring's brightest looks

Fashion's favorite bombshell bares all Styled by Robbie Spencer

52 K K

90 B B

Writer Nick Remsen researches the global history of tattoos and how they evolved into a celebrated fashion fixture

With her debut album on the horizon, the “Hotter Than Hell” singer is ready to set the world on fire Styled by Tom Guinness

56 B B

102 G W B K K Z 102 G W B K K Z

New York's new bands and the best places to visit, plus Milan's belle donne share their best-kept insider tips

Kendall, Joan, Lara, Amber, Carolyn, Lily, and Ellen get inked in the sexiest Spring fashion Styled by Paul Cavaco

Channeling '80s tomboy icon Leslie Winer, the season's sultriest looks are anything but retro Styled by Tom Guinness

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72 B Z & B Z &

++ ' W K ' W K

The bold patterns and colors of today's bomber and puffer jackets are a far cry from the coats' humble roots

Look who's all grown up! The dynasty continues as the youngest Cyrus prepares to take center stage

The first in a series of special installments, the photographer pays homage to New York's lengendary underground scenes, both old and new

36 W W Whether it's Dior's artist-designed bags, Burberry's glossiest beauty products, or Zanotti's dazzling collaboration with Jennifer Lopez, V has you covered

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THIS BODY IS MADE FOR FASHION What’s your body made for? #ThisBody

HEROES FRAN LEBOWITZ New York’s reigning critic sits down with longtime friend Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele to discuss her metropolitan life and the city she calls home.

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CARLYNE CERF DE DUDZEELE So, what is your favorite thing it was when I walked through it to get to the Upper about living in New York?

East Side. I have smoked in Central Park and no one FRAN LEBOWITZ That’s a good question. Right now, truth- said anything. fully, my favorite thing about New York is that it’s not CCD Tell me the story again about your cab? J’adore anywhere else in this country. that story.

I always thought that if I spoke Italian—which I don’t, FL No, it’s not a cab. It’s a Checker Marathon—it looks like I speak one language, English—I can’t imagine I would an old checker cab, but it was made as a passenger car live in Italy, but I would spend a considerable amount and I’m its only owner. of time there.

In the ’80s, I had it in a parking garage, the parkCCD I know you like to eat out a lot. What is your favorite ing garage moved. At the time, I had a girlfriend who restaurant in the city? moved the car for me to the new location. A week after FL This I will not say. Because, already, it’s too crowded. she moved the car, I broke up with her. Her revenge You know, I love to eat, but I don’t consider the subject was to not tell me where my car was. Finally, she told of food an area of great scholarship like everyone else me where the car was, but would not give me the ticket does. So, I eat several nights a week at the same res- to claim it. I went to the place and they wouldn’t give me my car. “Too bad for you.” taurant. I’ve been eating there since it first opened. As I said, it’s already too crowded.

There is a restaurant near to this garage that was When people ask me, “Do you want to try this new basically run by the mafia. The guy who owned it would restaurant?,” I will. But, when someone says, “Where always tell me, “If you ever have any problems, come to me. I’ll help you out.” I never had those problems, I should we eat?,” my main interest is that I don’t have to choose it. never went to him. Well, I went to him. I explained what CCD You love to walk in New York. happened and took the girlfriend out of the equation.

FL I only like to walk in cities; I don’t like to walk. You He said, “Why is your car in this garage? Those are know the people who like to take walks in the coun- very bad people.” And I’m thinking, Well if you think try—this I don’t like at all. I like to stroll along. I like to these are bad people, how bad could they be? He said, be on the street in New York. I like it.

“They’re not like us. You know what they’re like? They Another reason I like to walk around is I’m the only come into your house and someone does something person on the street, even if the streets are packed. wrong to them, they shoot everybody. The grandma, I’m the only person noticing everything because I’m the baby, the mother-in-law. They’re very bad people.” the only person not looking at my phone, because I Meanwhile, I’m like practically crying. It’s my car. don’t have one.

So, the guys goes, “Here’s what I’m going to do.

So, I feel like I can’t believe my good luck that every I’m going to call one of our cops.” I’m thinking, You have single person in New York who might be my competition cops? Yeah, they had cops. And by cops, I mean cops for observing life isn’t, because they’re not observing they’d paid off. They call the precinct and in like five minit; they’re on their phone. utes, a uniformed cop comes into the restaurant. I go Also, bicycles: I hate. You don’t hear them com- with the cop to the garage, the cop goes into the garage ing— my head swivels in the street like The Exorcist to with his gun drawn—these are very tough guys. It was not get hit by a bicycle. I hate those Citi Bikes, they’re like a movie. The gun out in his hand and says to the horrendous. guy, “Give her her car.” And the guy gave me my car.

CCD What do you think about Central Park, now that you I still have my car, but in a normal, regular garage, no can’t smoke there anymore? guns, no cops needed.

FL I have to say I’ve never been a user of parks in the sense of, like, going to the park. I’ve lived for 26 years two blocks from Central Park. The only time I was in PHOTOGRAPHY CARLYNE CERF DE DUDZEELE

Retouching: Alberto Milazzo (Lux Imaging)

ANNETTE BENING & MIKE MILLS Already garnering Oscar buzz, the director of 20th Century Women and its legendary starring actress sit down to discuss coming of age in California and the joys (and perils) of motherhood.

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The relationship between mother and son is undoubt“The script came from my mom,” Mills explains, “but edly a source of both creative inspiration and emotional when I watch the movie I am seeing Annette—I’m seeintrospection. It’s been a dominant cultural trope from ing Dorothea—not my mother.” Key for Mills in Bening’s the time of the ancient Greek tragedies—Oedipus Rex, portrayal was the desire to highlight the societal natch—to the heyday of Freudian analysis and its vari- demands and interior conflicts that confront mothers, ous maternal complexes. As the 19th century French eschewing whatever personal nostalgia or reverie Mills playwright and novelist Honoré de Balzac wrote, “The had for his own. “Annette showed me my mom as a heart of a mother is a deep abyss at the bottom of woman,” Mills candidly offers. which you will always find forgiveness.”

“I just got really wrapped up in it,” Bening notes Diving head first into such depths, filmmaker Mike of her time spent playing Dorothea. Having lived in Mills’s latest feature, 20th Century Women, takes its Southern California in the ’70s herself, many of the cues from the auteur’s relationship with his mom, cast- film’s historical and cultural touchstones were resonant ing legendary actress Annette Bening in the role of a for her. “I’ve done a lot of films in different periods and single mother navigating the tribulations of her own places, places I’d never been to. But with Mike’s film, late-in-life identity crisis. that’s a time and place I’ve lived in...I felt like he was “My mother was a complicated woman,” Mills notes, contextualizing the time in a way I’ve never seen any“and I didn’t want to polish off the edges or do anything one do. I felt like I knew the people. I wasn’t any one of to dampen that.” Indeed, for Mills, an underlying moti- those people, but I was sort of a combination of them.”

For Bening—herself a parent of four—the opportuvation when writing the movie’s script was to lay bare nity to play the role of a single mother attempting to the realities of motherhood while also remaining true to the affection he holds for his own mother, who passed reconcile her own values with the energized feminist away in 1999. When asked about his relationship and zeitgeist of the ’70s was especially intriguing. “We don’t its influence on the script, Mills replies, “You could know our mothers fully,” Bening points out, and it was be mistaken in thinking I knew her well when actually the promise of exploring that interior mystery that drew the drive to make the movie is interwoven—we were her most to the role. “There was a lot of talking to Mike close, but there’s so much I don’t know about her. She’s about his mother,” Bening notes, “but, at the same a mystery to me, especially as she was a person from time, I’m hearing Mike’s version...and I know there were a generation that didn’t share their life as openly as we elements to her that Mike did not see. When it comes do today. I really wanted that, and I never really got it. ” to children and their parents, there’s a healthy dose For his part, Mills is no stranger to crafting autobio- of narcissism on the part of the kids. And they have to graphical storylines that examine the dynamic between [have it], that’s the way human beings are designed.” parents and children. His 2010 film, Beginners, tells the The resulting film is at once a compelling ode to story of a father who comes out to his son. Mills’s own a time and place in American cultural history and an father came out to him at the age of 75. With Christopher emotionally raw, often wry, portrait of motherhood.

Plummer starring as a recently widowed father along- “I tried very hard,” Mills underscores, “to have the film side Ewan McGregor as the son, Beginners was a not feel nostalgic. If anything, it’s mourning my mom critical success, earning an Academy Award for Plummer. and a specific era that has since ended.” While 20th Fueled by the film’s critical approbation, Mills’s interest Century Women may be, in the eyes of its director, an in a follow-up of sorts took flight—inspired, in part, by elegy to people and places long gone, it is also a celebration of their legacy. JOSEPH AKEL the relationship he had with his mother—with the story set in the Santa Barbara of 1979, the backdrop to Mills’s own childhood. When it came time to cast the lead role, PHOTOGRAPHY MARK ABRAHAMS Mills quickly decided on Annette Bening to play it.

20TH CENTURY WOMEN IS PLAYING IN THEATERS NOW

Makeup Cyndle Komarovski (Honey Artists) Hair Helena Faccenda Photo assistants Max Montgomery, John Beecroft, Jimi Franklin Retouching Lumière Studios Location Milk Studios

HERO

ROSEMARY’S BABY Mia Farrow in Rosemary’s Baby, 1968 © William Castle Productions/Alamy

Well, here’s a first. When the subject is Rosemary’s Baby, the answer to the question “Which is better, the book or the movie?” should really be “Neither, they’re pretty much the same thing.”

Even Ira Levin, author of the blockbuster novel Rosemary’s Baby, which turns 50 in March, didn’t see much difference between his book and Roman Polanski’s 1968 movie. “I’ve always felt that the film of Rosemary’s Baby is the single most faithful adaptation of a novel ever to come out of Hollywood,” Levin said.

“Not only does it incorporate whole chunks of the book’s dialogue, it even follows the colors of clothing…and the layout of the apartment.”

Cripes: the apartment. While it’s trite to say that a place can be a character in a novel, Manhattan’s fictional “old, black, and elephantine” Bramford building—its exterior is played with Oscar-worthy flair by the Dakota in Polanski’s film—is a true villain. Levin, who lived most of his life in New York City and died there in 2007, has two characters name-check the Dakota in Rosemary’s Baby, but the legendary dwelling wasn’t the model for the Bramford.

“He wrote the book with the Alwyn Court in mind, which is a building on the corner of 58th Street and Seventh Avenue whose facade is covered with incredibly detailed stonework, including several large fire-breathing salamanders,” Nicholas Levin, the son of Ira, recently told me by email. “It’s also relatively compact compared to the Dakota, and always struck me as the more manageable scale for a building in which a coven of witches could effectively operate.”

It’s Rosemary Woodhouse’s yen to live at the Bramford that brings her and her floundering actor husband, Guy, to the building. So smitten is Rosemary with the Bramford that she pays little mind when a friend

Fifty years on, the novel that spawned Roman Polanski’s cinematic cult classic remains the stuff of co-op board nightmares.

warns of its “unpleasant reputation” for having housed evildoers early in the century. How can a few macabre old stories—something about a dead baby wrapped in newspaper—hold up against those sky-high ceilings and glorious Victorian details?

Rosemary isn’t only interested in surfaces; a dogged theme throughout the novel is her effort to reconcile her good-girl Catholic past in Omaha with her embrace of mid-’60s nose-thumbing at organized religion and social conservatism, a rebellion in which New York was the figurative epicenter. Rosemary says that she’s now agnostic, gets a Vidal Sassoon haircut (“It’s very in”), and is concerned that she seems “Negro-oppressing” to the black laundresses working in the Bramford’s basement—which, incidentally, is where that dead baby was said to have been found.

After the Woodhouses meet the Castevets, elderly neighbors who live on Rosemary and Guy’s floor, the older couple make a pet project of the younger one.

Mr. Castevet strokes Guy’s already considerable ego (remember: Guy is an actor), and Mrs. Castevet, something of an herbalist, gives Rosemary a pendant encasing foul-smelling “tannis root,” ostensibly for luck. Once Rosemary, who has been pining for a baby, becomes pregnant, Mrs. Castevet daily brings her a homemade drink to substitute for an expectant mother’s customary vitamins. This is done at the behest of the Castevets’ friend Dr. Sapirstein, whom the couple convinces Rosemary to see—“He delivers all the society babies”— instead of her groovy, young obstetrician, Dr. Hill.

Rosemary’s irritating docility—she dutifully downs that funky drink and accepts Dr. Sapirstein’s insistence that a pregnant woman’s intolerable, enduring physical pain is perfectly normal—suits the character’s generation and background. In the mid-’60s, good girls did not

argue with authority figures. But as Rosemary’s belly gets harder to miss, so do the hints that it’s being used for nefarious purposes, and she swings from Nancy Reagan submissiveness to Nancy Drew self-determination. The character’s dawning independence has a stinging parallel in the life of Mia Farrow, whose career was made when she played Rosemary in Polanski’s film.

Farrow had to choose between finishing the movie and quitting to please her then husband, Frank Sinatra. After making her decision, Sinatra’s attorney served her with divorce papers on the film set.

While Ira Levin was correct that Polanski’s film is unfailingly loyal to his novel, when we study the movie screen there is, of course, no omniscient narrator telling us what’s in Rosemary’s head. This has allowed the directors of both treatments of Rosemary’s Baby— in 2014, Agnieszka Holland helmed a surprisingly toothy Paris-set TV miniseries based on the book, starring Zoe Saldana—to claim that their cinematic creations are open to interpretation. Is everything we’re seeing just one hysterical woman’s pre- and/or postpartum delusion? Levin’s book is unequivocally clear on the subject: after Rosemary figures out what’s going on, what she tells good Dr. Hill is both unbelievable and true.

According to Nicholas Levin, his father, who was an atheist, did not mean for Rosemary’s Baby to be taken as a cautionary tale about the perils of forsaking God. Fifty years on, it’s tempting to read the novel as a warning not against godlessness but against disbelieving women who are pleading with us to hear them.

Put another way: when people don’t take women seriously, things have a tendency to go to hell. NELL BERAM

ROSEMARY’S BABY IS AVAILABLE FROM PEGASUS BOOKS VMAGAZINE.COM 3 5

V NEWS

TATTED UP Dreamy cityscapes, color-drenched florals, and animals galore are just some of the imaginative designs that Brooklyn-based tattoo artist Virginia Elwood of Saved Tattoo dreams up for her loyal clientele. This Spring, she’s bringing some of that inked magic to the French brand Zadig & Voltaire.

The label’s artistic director, Cécilia Bönström, has a history of collaborating with innovators like jewelry designer Gaia Repossi and shoe guru Laurence Dacade, but calls her admiration for Elwood a tad more “platonic,” since she has no tattoos herself. “I really discovered someone that I didn’t know much about,” Bönström reveals.

“I wanted to propose a new vision of tattoos, a bit more poetic.” Thus, a whimsical circus theme came alive—think blue leopards jumping through flaming hoops and skeleton magicians—on silk tunics, bombers, and embroidered T-shirts. Pretty and tough. PRIYA RAO

TOP ($348, ZADIG & VOLTAIRE BOUTIQUES)

COMING TO AMERICA Breaking into the American fashion market isn’t easy, but decades-old Korean brand Kuho already has insiders clamoring for the minimal yet bold pieces in their debut U.S. collection. Inspired by a trip to Cirque du Soleil’s Quidam, designer Hyunjung Kim says she was impressed by how the costumes’ “stripes and dots were transformed into many different ways of expression.” PR

PORTRAITS OF A LADY THE EMPEROR’S CLOTHES Dubbed “London’s Most Outrageous Dresser,” Daniel Lismore, the six-foot-four nightlife impresario known for his highly detailed, intricately constructed costumes, is set to release an anthology of his creations, published

by Rizzoli. For the onetime Mario Testino muse (and current creative director of Sorapol), the impetus for his designs derives from a desire for social change. “In my heart,” Lismore says, “I’m an activist— I want to break the boundaries.” JOSEPH AKEL

More than two decades after Dior created their iconic Lady Dior bag, the purse gets a creative reboot thanks to the talents of seven visual artists, including Daniel Gordon. His limited-edition fur offering pays homage to Princess Diana (she was responsible for making the bag a global must-have) and her love of flowers. PR

DANIEL LISMORE: BE YOURSELF, EVERYONE ELSE IS ALREADY TAKEN ($55, RIZZOLIUSA.COM)

LADY DIOR BAG IN COLLABORATION WITH DANIEL GORDON ($11,500, DIOR.COM)

Clockwise from top right: Photography Ilaria Orsini; Courtesy Dior; Courtesy Rizzoli; Courtesy Zadig & Voltaire

TOP ($240) AND MIDI SKIRT ($450) NORDSTROM.COM

SMALL WONDERS Few fashion houses garner the loyal, cultlike following of Japanese label Sacai, known for its experimental yet minimal aesthetic. For the last 18 years, founder Chitose Abe, who designs for “a woman with a strong independent mind,” has solely made covetable clothing, but recently introduced a six-piece bag collection. With the help of accessories maven Katie Hillier, who has made bags for Marc by Marc Jacobs and Victoria Beckham, Abe mixes fur, crocodile, and leather to reimagine familiar archetypes, like the duffle bag and the coin purse.

Still, Abe says, “It was very important for me that, like my clothes, each bag should be practical rather than just being a piece of ‘art.’” Here’s betting her devotees will still treat them as such. PR

BAG (LEFT, PRICE UPON REQUEST) BAG (RIGHT, $1,450) BERGDORFGOODMAN.COM

HAUTE STEPPER Jennifer Lopez is known for her love of extremely sexy, vertiginous heels—Wedding Planner, anybody?— and all 15 pieces in her new shoe line with Giuseppe Zanotti stand strong. Our personal favorites are a turquoise-and-black python high-heel gladiator sandal and a suede bootie with rose gold Swarovski crystals (right). PR

JENNIFER LOPEZ FOR GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI BOOTIE ($2,995, GIUSEPPEZANOTTIDESIGN.COM)

FLAVORS OF THE WEEK Clockwise from top: Courtesy Sacai; Photography Therese Aldgard; Courtesy Alberta Ferretti; Courtesy Giuseppe Zanotti

In the movie When Harry Met Sally..., the titular female character blames her breakup with a former flame on his suspicious attitude regarding her days-of-theweek underwear: “Sunday” was missing. Wearing the helpful reminders has been a rite of passage for many girls, and now, the undies have a grown up counterpart, thanks to Alberta Ferretti. The Italian designer’s limited-edition, see-now, buy-now collection of cashmere and wool blend pullovers is dubbed “Rainbow Week,” in conjunction with her January PreFall show. For Ferretti, the message was intended as “a positive thought to be able to stay with you all week.” While Saturdays are almost universally celebrated, the tastemaker is making the case for, wait for it...Monday: “It’s the beginning of the week and I made it in pink.” PR

RAINBOW WEEK SWEATERS ($495 EACH, ALBERTAFERRETTI.COM)

SWEET LIPS This month, Burberry unveils a whipped, matte cream lip gloss in 14 shades, from rosy pink to deep oxblood.

Just one stroke gives foolproof, high-intensity color: “Don’t worry that you won’t be able to make it look perfect,” says their artistic consultant, Wendy Rowe. PR

BURBERRY LIQUID LIP VELVET ($34, US.BURBERRY.COM)

VMAGAZINE.COM 3 7

Three young bands with wildly different styles have one major thing in common—NYC plays muse to their music.

PHOTOGRAPHY BRUNO STAUB FASHION JULIAN JESUS TEXT JOSHUA LYON

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LYNCHIAN LICKS

“It usually happens when I’m delirious, or very depressed, or extremely happy,” says Breanna Barbara about her songwriting process. All of those emotions are evident on her debut album, Mirage Dreams, a decadently swampy blues explosion. Despite getting her first guitar at age 16, she grew up relatively sheltered, music-wise, until a boyfriend introduced her to Mahalia Jackson and Sister Rosetta Tharpe. “All those old-soul blues mamas,” she sighs. “I just fell in love.” After moving to New York in 2012, she wrote the bulk of the album inside a Bushwick loft with no air conditioning during a brutally hot summer. She recorded tracks on her phone and emailed a few demos to a producer who’s worked with Alabama Shakes. “I did not expect to hear back,” she says, but she did. “He was like, ‘Great, let’s make a record!’” That kind of experience is one in a million, but so is her smoky quartz voice, and all of her songs tap into something primal. “I really love that energy that exists at a live show,” she says, “when it’s just like power and dance and sweat.”

TOP COACH MIRAGE DREAMS IS OUT NOW ON NO ROADS RECORDS

Hair (Breanna Barbara and Denitia and Sene.) Owen Gould (The Wall Group) Grooming (PWR BTTM) Peter Matteliano (Kate Ryan Inc.)

NEW YORK’S NEW ACTS

BREANNA BARBARA

DENITIA AND SENE. NOIR & B

As a musician, you know you’re doing something great when no one knows quite how to identify your sound.

The songs crafted by Denitia Adesuwa Odigie and Brian “Sene” Marc have been honored with descriptions as varied as “iceberg-cold R&B,” “electro-fused rap,” and “bedroom jams,” all of which are just fine with the band. “Whatever people think it is, then that’s cool, call it that,” says Odigie. The two met at a music collaborative space in Brooklyn’s Borough Park called the Clubhouse, where Odigie was living when she first came to New York in 2010. “The day that I moved in we had this big house party and I was singing and playing.” Sene, who had been recording music with guys from the house, was captivated by her voice and later asked if she wanted to sing on his rap record. They soon began collaborating on other songs that he had been writing on the side, until they had enough for an EP, which they followed with his and hers., their first full album. “I’ll joke that Sene is stuck with me now,” Odigie laughs. “I know he thought this was gonna be temporary but like, I’m in his life.” Which is just fine with Sene. “At the time I was like, ‘I hope this girl is in, because I don’t plan on looking back.” Their new album, love and noir., has a dreamy, cinematic quality, and similar to their past tracks, resists being pegged to any one descriptive quality. Maybe we’ll just settle on “brilliant.”

SENE WEARS SHIRT CALVIN KLEIN JEANS DENITIA WEARS JACKET COACH LOVE AND NOIR. IS SELF-RELEASED ON ITUNES

PWR BTTM ROCK REVOLUTION

It’s disheartening that in 2017 queer rock bands don’t have more visibility. We’ve got a growing list of out-and-proud pop and dance acts, but gay kids that prefer harder music with lyrics they can identify with have few places to turn.

Enter PWR BTTM, a kickass guitar and drums duo made up of Ben Hopkins and Liv Bruce, friends who formed their band while attending Bard College in upstate New York. They also perform in drag, but not the kind most audiences are used to. “RuPaul’s Drag Race came along and helped define what people think drag is, because it made it more popular, which is amazing,” explains Hopkins.

“But it’s also worth knowing that while all this is happening, there are performers doing weird innovative drag shit…it’s always meant to be transgressive.” They take their visual cues from pioneering performance artists like Taylor Mac, Ethyl Eichelberger, and New York’s downtown Pyramid Club scene in the ’80s and ’90s. Think face paint, glitter, and extreme eyeliner, though Bruce, who is non-binary, has been going more “subtle glam” lately, and jokes that at their first photo shoot, they “looked like the queer Insane Clown Posse.” Thankfully, their music doesn’t bear that comparison—the sound is pure indie-pop punk rock (fittingly, their song “1994” has a mid-’90s era Guided By Voices vibe) with loads of expert guitar shredding. As Hedwig famously sang: “And all the strange rock and rollers, you know you’re doing all right.”.

LIV WEARS SPORTS-BRA ADIDAS UGLY CHERRIES IS OUT NOW FROM FATHER/DAUGHTER RECORDS

V NYC GUIDE: UPTOWN Marin Hopper, owner of retail showroom Hayward House, shares her favorite uptown destinations.

NEUE GALERIE

THE EAST POLE

“Contemplating the hardware for my store, I spent a lot of “When in the mood for a healthy meal, I always opt for time at the Galerie looking to Josef Hoffmann for inspi- The East Pole or its new counterpart, Cafe Americano, ration. There is nothing better than a delicious Viennese right under my shop. Both serve farm-to-table fare, with brunch at Café Sabarsky and then going upstairs to a delicious, unexpected twist. And all their drinks are made with organic juices and sport delightful, exotic see the greatest Klimt collection this side of Austria and Germany.” NEUEGALERIE.ORG touches as well.” THE EAST POLE IS LOCATED AT 133 E. 65TH ST

JINSOON

BEMELMANS BAR

“When I want to get my nails done, I can only think of “I do love the unforgettable old-school haunts on the JINsoon. Stylish and serene—yet sparse in its design— Upper East Side, like Bemelmans Bar. The charmI have to admit it feels like a Tibetan shrine. With beauti- ing illustrations on the walls are made by the bar’s ful ceramic basins for pedicures, an array of well-curated namesake and always make me smile. The lighting is nail polish colors, and luxurious treatments, I leave wonderfully flattering!” feeling rejuvenated.” JINSOON.COM BEMELMANS BAR AT THE CARLYLE HOTEL IS LOCATED AT 35 E. 76TH ST

BABY’S ALL RIGHT

VINNIE’S PIZZERIA

“If it’s a Tuesday night and you’re like, ‘Where can I “They have a lot of really good vegetarian and specialty go dancing?’ Or, ‘Where’s a good band playing?’ The slices. There’s one in Greenpoint, but our favorite is answer is this place. It’s got that fun, glamorous, weird in Williamsburg. Our favorite slice has avocado, feta, New York vibe mixed in with a feeling that anything can and black beans. It won’t kill you because it’s not a happen. We’ve probably played this venue the most.” cheese overload.”

BABYSALLRIGHT.COM VINNIESBROOKLYN.COM

ALPHAVILLE

TRANS-PECOS / TRANS AM CAFE

“We come from a DIY community and this place is run “We have meetings and get coffee here by day. At night, by people we know. You can get nice drinks and good it’s a really good venue. Spaces that wear many hats are special. It’s important for New York music and art food and it has a little venue in the back where bands from all over play. Plus the crowd is really friendly— culture that they exist, but they keep getting pushed all of our friends come here!” further out.”

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Take an insider’s tour of North Brooklyn— spiritual successor to the L.E.S.—with Julia Cumming and her Sunflower Bean bandmates.

DOWNTOWN

Uptown, clockwise from top right: Courtesy The East Pole; Courtesy The Carlyle/Rosewood Hotels; Courtesy JINsoon; Courtesy Stephanie Diani; Courtesy Neue Galerie. Downtown, clockwise from top right: Courtesy Rebekah Campbell; Roy Werner at Trans-Pecos courtesy Maggie Shannon; Courtesy Dylan Johnson; Courtesy Amanda Hatfield; Courtesy The New York Pizza Project

GRAND TOUR

STREET STYLE

CIAO, MILANO!

Giulia Scialanga

From Italy’s coolest city, fashion insider Valerio Innella nominates four of its brightest new lights.

PHOTOGRAPHY SIMONA PAVAN

CHEF

Daphne Scoccia

ACTRESS

Hair and makeup (Daphne) Giorgia Palvarini (Simone Belli) Producer Sara Marcovecchio

Along with Sara Nicolosi, Cinzia De Lauri, and Maddalena Selvini, Scialanga is the cofounder of Altatto, the vegetarian private dining service at the forefront of Milan’s gastronomic scene. For Scialanga, a native of Milan, the city is “constantly evolving,” a place “that one can readily find inspiration in.” CLOTHES N˚21 SHOES GIULIA’S OWN

Though born in Rome, the 21-year-old actress, who starred in the Cannes festival favorite, Fiore, has a second home in Milan. For visitors, Scoccia recommends stopping by one of the small cafes tucked in around the Basilica di San Lorenzo.

CLOTHES AND SHOES EMILIO PUCCI

Marcella di Chio

Armela Jakova

NIGHTLIFE IMPRESARIO

With an ambition to transform Milan’s nightlife scene, di Chio has already made a name for herself with her wildly successful Rollover party, bringing together the city’s notable tastemakers. Of her chosen home, di Chio notes, “Milan is always growing, moving, inspiring, changing,” adding, “it is the city in Italy to live in.” CLOTHES VERSACE

SOCIAL MEDIA INFLUENCER

Having lived in Milan for the last 10 years, the native of Albania has become a presence documenting the city’s fashion scene, largely via her Instagram, @armelola.

For Jakova, the best thing about living in Milan “is the fact that one never has a dull moment surrounded by such creativity.” CLOTHES, BAG, SHOES MSGM

FROM LEFT: TOP AND PANTS BALENCIAGA BAG BALENCIAGA WHITE CALFSKIN XL BLANKET BAG ($2,785, BALENCIAGA.COM)

GO BIG...

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...or go home! This Spring, get carried away with statement-making, supersize bags that deliver a deep fashion impact.

PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS RHODES FASHION VICTOIRE SIMONNEY

Makeup Hélène Vasnier (Artlist Paris) Hair Kazuko Kitaoka (Agence Saint Germain) using Bumble and Bumble.

Models Pasha Harulia and Sophie Braunsfeld (Viva Paris) Manicure Béatrice Eni (Agence Saint Germain) Photo assistant Dani Bastidas Stylist assistant Pia Abbar Production Webber Represents Retouching DTouch

TOP AND DRESS Y’S SHOES CAREL PARIS X JOURDEN

FROM LEFT: TOP CÉLINE SKIRT YOHJI YAMAMOTO SHOES DIOR BAG CÉLINE LARGE TOTE IN WHITE SHINY CALFSKIN ($2,200, CELINE.COM) TOP CÉLINE SHORTS DIOR

FROM LEFT: TOP AND DRESS LEMAIRE SHOES CHANEL BAG SONIA RYKIEL COTTON CANVAS TOTE IN BLUE AND BLACK ($430, SONIARYKIEL.COM) TOP Y’S SKIRT VEJAS SHOES CHANEL

HISTORY LESSON

CHILL FACTOR The roots of the cold-weather puffer are strictly utilitarian, but this season, the layer gets an all new high fashion makeover.

PHOTOGRAPHY MATTHEW PORTER STYLIST KATIE BURNETT

CLOTHING BALENCIAGA JACKIE KENNEDY MADE AN ATHLETIC IMPRESSION IN ’66.

NORMA KAMALI’S JACKET WAS HUGE IN THE ’80S—LITERALLY.

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PAT CLEVELAND REINTRODUCED CHARLES JAMES IN ’73.

’90S HIP-HOP ICONS LIKE THE FUGEES LOVED THE WIDE LOOK.

This page, clockwise from bottom right: Photography David Corio; Photography Juan Ramos, courtesy the Estate of Antonio Lopez & Juan Ramos/Museo del Barrio; Norma Kamali by Dustin Pittman; Bettmann / Getty Images

Ever since Demna Gvasalia landed at Balenciaga, his cult of cool has permeated every piece sent down the brand’s runway. Case in point: the practical puffer jacket. Last Fall, the designer concocted an oversize crimson variation, and for Spring, the vest gets a turn. Cast in a vibrant marigold, the billowy beauty is both useful and chic—not to mention the latest high point of a long fashion evolution.

Invented by Eddie Bauer in 1936, the goose down-filled puffer got its first big overhaul just one year later by Charles James, who dreamed up a silk evening jacket inspired by a bed quilt. Subsequent decades saw major revamps of the design that helped define each era (see photos for examples).

Today, the versatile coat can be found in a massive range of cuts and colors to match any aesthetic and remains a must-have for both subzero temperatures and maximum street-style statements. PRIYA RAO

BOMB SHELL With its aeronautical origins, the bomber jacket is one Spring trend certain to take flight.

Like the sensible puffer (seen opposite), the bomber, or flight jacket, originally favored function over fashion. As the topper of choice for the early aviation set, the jacket had to withstand high-altitude cold weather. Leather variations, like the U.S. Army Air Corps A-2 style, defined by knit cuffs and snapdown collars, were sported by civilian pilots as well, including Amelia Earhart, who smartly layered hers over ribbed, shawl-collar sweaters.

In the 1950s, nylon iterations, often accented with fur collars and leather straps intended to securing oxygen masks, became an unexpected favorite for Hollywood. When trendsetter Marilyn Monroe visited soldiers during a 1954 USO tour to Korea, she paired one with high-waisted pants and lace-up ankle boots.

More playful jackets made of satin, or bedecked with patches, got their due, appearing in movies like Grease and Top Gun. Having reached icon-level status, designers like Marc Jacobs and Stuart Vevers at Coach incorporated the jacket’s silhouette into their Spring collections, continuing the coat’s journey from the tarmac to the runway. PR

JACKET COACH 1941 PANTS CARVEN

AMELIA EARHART OFTEN WORE THE ICONIC JACKET.

JACKET HILFIGER COLLECTION PANTS DONDUP LEGGINGS (UNDERNEATH) PACO RABANE

JACKET DIESEL PANTS DIESEL BLACK GOLD

MARILYN DONNED THE BOMBER DURING A USO TOUR IN KOREA.

SET THE TONE TRENDS

From ethereal, semi-opaque separates to whimsical outerwear, color dominates the most coveted Spring looks PHOTOGRAPHY MATTHEW PORTER FASHION KATIE BURNETT

SHEER GENIUS FROM LEFT LAUREN WEARS SHIRT HUGO BOSS SKIRT MSGM SHORTS (UNDERNEATH) DKNY SHOES AND BAG ISSEY MIYAKE EARRINGS TIFFANY & CO.

HYUNJI WEARS TOP DKNY LACE TOP (UNDERNEATH) AND SHOES CHANEL PANTS BLUMARINE BONNET AND BAG MM6 MAISON MARGIELA

DEEP BLUES OPPOSITE PAGE FROM LEFT HERIETH WEARS SWEATER ADIDAS JACKET CHANEL JEANS J BRAND EARRRING PROENZA SCHOULER LAUREN WEARS VEST GUESS JEANS MM6 MAISON MARGIELA EARRRING CG HYUNJI WEARS PONCHO ARMANI EXCHANGE DRESS ALEXANDER WANG JEANS J BRAND 46 VMAGAZINE.COM

Makeup Asami Taguchi (Frank Reps) Hair Mirna Jose (L’Atelier NYC) Models Lauren de Graaf (The Society Management), Herieth Paul (Women Management), Hyunji Shin (IMG) Photo assistant Casey Mathewson Stylist assistants Lauren Piven and Christina Sanchez Arias Makeup assistant Tsuyoshi Sekimoto Hair assistant Remy Moore Retouching TBD Location and equipment ROOT Studios

HERIETH WEARS JACKET, BRA, SKIRT, SHORTS, SHOES CHRISTIAN DIOR

BOOT UP FROM LEFT HERIETH WEARS JACKET, PANTS, AND BOOTS

BY LOUIS VUITTON HYUNJI WEARS SCARF, SWEATSHIRT, PANTS AND BOOTS BY MARC JACOBS RING BY PALMETTO LAUREN WEARS DRESS, SKIRT, AND BOOTS BY FENDI

BRIGHT TIGHTS, BIG CITY OPPOSITE PAGE FROM LEFT LAUREN WEARS JACKET, DRESS, TIGHTS, SHOES BALENCIAGA HERIETH WEARS DRESS JIL SANDER TIGHTS FALKE SHOES PACO RABANNE HYUNJI WEARS CARDIGAN, SKIRT, TIGHTS, SHOES GUCCI

V GIRLS PHOTOGRAPHY PHILIPPE JARRIGEON FASHION CLARE BYRNE TEXT WHITNEY MALLETT

HERIZEN GUARDIOLA

From a role on The Get Down to a forthcoming EP, this is one star determined to make her voice be heard.

“I write every day. Music is constantly pouring out of him made me fall in love with music.” Guardiola, who able to express myself through music. I probably would me,” reveals Herizen Guardiola, whose powerhouse was born and raised in Miami, is quick to add that her have done everything that they did to get a certain voice is a mainspring of The Get Down, the musical set mother also had a lasting impact on her. “My mom’s record or a turntable to be able to work on their craft.” in the Bronx during the late ’70s in which she stars as Buddhist, so we grew up going to temple and listenTo prep for The Get Down, the cast went through Mylene Cruz. Like her character in the Baz Luhrmann– ing to chants. That influenced my mind and the way I a boot camp full of ’70s culture and long days of produced show, Guardiola is precocious and driven write,” she says, explaining that these practices inspire dancing, which Guardiola notes “helped us emerge.” when it comes to music. “I’ve been writing for around “a certain calmness that helps me write from how I feel Though she had no prior acting experience when she 10 years,” explains the 20-year-old, whose debut EP is in the moment.” was cast, she had a particularly effortless on-screen due out in early 2017.

Since working on the show, Guardiola has been chemistry with Justice Smith, her costar. “Justice and I While her character has to sneak around her strict motivated by the lengths the characters go to pursue are something else, honestly,” she insists. “We clicked reverend father to record disco tracks, Guardiola grew their creative goals, struggles based on the real chal- the first day we met at Baz’s office during the callup in a different environment. Her father is a reggae lenges youth faced in Koch-era New York. “I learned so backs. And we’re both Leos, so we understand each musician who encouraged her musical passions. “I much about the situation and what the Bronx was going other. We’re both emotional and sarcastic.” Guardiola was always listening to my dad. My sister and I were through. I really had no idea what these kids had to do underscores the value of having a true friend on set, backup singers for him and he was the first person to to make a name for themselves and to make music,” “When we’re working long, exhausting 18-hour days, we teach me how to play guitar,” she recalls. “Just watching she admits. “For me, it would be so frustrating to not be can depend on each other to make one another laugh.”

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SUIT PAUL SMITH SHIRT DKNY EARRINGS AREA AND GEORGIA’S OWN ON EYES M.A.C. EYESHADOW IN BROWN DOWN AND M.A.C. TECHNAKOHL LINER IN BROQUE ON LIPS M.A.C. LIPSTICK IN FRESH MOROCCAN ON NAILS O.P.I NAIL LACQUER IN A GREAT OPERA-TUNITY OPPOSITE PAGE TOP AND EARRINGS VINTAGE FROM SCREAMING MIMI’S ON EYES M.A.C. DAZZLESHADOW IN CAN’T STOP, DON’T STOP ON LIPS M.A.C. LIPGLASS IN SPICE ON NAILS O.P.I. NAIL LACQUER IN I CAN’T HEAR MYSELF PINK

With a Hollywood pedigree, this New York habitué is playing the part of cultural provocateur.

“I love throwing dinner parties that decay into madness,” proclaims Georgia Ford, a fixture of the downtown New York scene who seems to have her fingers in everything, from hosting salons and producing fashion shows to publishing her poetry. Over the years, the dinner parties evolved into organizing art shows out of her apartment, which the 26-year-old dubbed “Salon Ford.”

Proof that Ford has had a hand in nurturing the downtown creative class through these late-night meetings is the list of artists from the first Salon Ford show: a who’s who of the next wave of New York artists, including Coco Young and Joseph Geagan. Ford often meets collaborators at these soirées, including Lou Dallas designer Raffaella Hanley. This past September, Ford produced the Lou Dallas Spring/

GEORGIA FORD

Summer ’17 show that took place at a Ukrainian ban- adding, “I think it’s one of those things where it’s in quet hall. my blood.” This year, Ford published a poem in the In September, Ford also walked the runway in the magazine All-In alongside photos of her and her boyGauntlett Cheng fashion show for a second season. friend, musician Donald Cumming. “I just wanted to She counts designers Esther Gauntlett and Jenny experience putting something into the world withCheng as friends, too. All of the projects Ford takes out being precious with it and overworking it,” Ford part in seem to grow out of this extended creative notes. American writer Fanny Howe is a big inspiration. community, glued together by after-hours debauch- “She has a way of playing with words that I find incredery. “That’s the way things have always happened, ibly intoxicating.” even before the Factory,” she posits, noting that when Right now, Ford is working on her first book, which she was growing up, her parents, actor Harrison Ford combines poetry and fiction. At the same time, she’s and screenwriter Melissa Mathison, hung around the committed to continuing her support of local New New York art world.

York artists. “I think we live in a world where, for the Ford’s mother, who penned screenplays, was also a first time, people can do things without anyone asking big influence on her passion for writing. “When I was them to or giving them the green light,” she ventures. maybe six, I started writing stories,” Ford remembers, “I enjoy being a part of that in any way that I can.”

DRESS SPORTMAX EARRING (WORN AS BROOCH) TULESTE ON EYES M.A.C. PIGMENT NUTCRACKER SWEET IN ROSE ON NAILS M.A.C. M.A.C. STUDIO/ HELMUT NEWTON NAIL LACQUER IN MONTE CARLO

ANNA BARYSHNIKOV

After her role in Manchester by the Sea, the daughter of the legendary dancer is leaps and bounds ahead.

“I would go to the mall and listen to groups of girls talking.

There’s a really specific way that they say, ‘Oh my God,’” notes actress Anna Baryshnikov, explaining how she researched the coastal Massachusetts accent her character speaks with in Kenneth Lonergan’s acclaimed film Manchester by the Sea. “It sounds creepy when I say it out loud: I stalked young girls at the mall,” she jokes.

Not counting a tiny part in Todd Solondz’s WienerDog, Manchester by the Sea is the 24-year-old’s first film role. It was a dream come true in a lot of ways.

Baryshnikov was a theater major at Northwestern, and a big Lonergan fan. “Kenny’s such a staple of the theater community,” she notes, adding that she performed Jessica’s monologue from his play This Is Our Youth in every acting class growing up. Baryshnikov was raised just north of New York City in a family of artists. Her

father Mikhail Baryshnikov is a legendary dancer, choreographer, and actor and her mother Lisa Rinehart is a former ballerina.

Recently, Baryshnikov’s been revisiting some old home videos, provoking her to realize how integral performing was to her childhood. “In my house, performing was always part of the experience,” she remembers. It’s no surprise, then, that all her siblings have ended up in the arts. Her first opportunity to take the stage came at six years old when a neighbor put together an all-children production of A Midsummer Night’s Dream. “There was this lovely, beautiful scene where all the younger girls were fairies. It was supposed to be ethereal and light,” she recalls. “Before the show, my babysitter was like, ‘Just remember to project your voice.’ So in the performance, it comes

time to do my line and I’m just screaming.” The gaffe turned into a career inspiration. “The audience laughed and I remember thinking, Oh that’s fun. I love making people laugh.”

Baryshnikov’s next role, on the upcoming CBS show Superior Donuts, will employ that early passion for humor. The comedy, adapted from the Tracy Letts play of the same name, tackles the subject of gentrification in Chicago through a cast of characters that work at or frequent the same donut shop. Since Letts is an icon of the Chicago theater scene, Baryshnikov is thrilled to be part of the project. What she’ll miss most when shooting in L.A., though, are playwrights like Annie Baker, Sarah DeLappe, and Jenny Rachel Weiner, adding, “There’s a really cool community of young, female playwrights in New York right now.”

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Life is a party for one up-and-coming visual artist whose work is the talk of the town.

“I always want to give the audience the image that they can move,” says Tschabalala Self, referring to the figures she coaxes together out of paint and fabric, patchworks suggesting black female bodies in flux, their limbs dancing across the canvas. “I feel they’re more similar in my mind to puppets or dolls, something that at any moment could become animated,” the artist explains. “I want to put the idea in your head that they’re coming from somewhere and that they have the possibility of going somewhere.”

Since completing an MFA at Yale in 2015, Self has navigated auspicious interest in her work, with solo shows in New York, L.A., Berlin, and Naples, and reviews from Art in America and the New York Times.

While these days Self splits her time between New York and New Haven, the 26-year-old artist was born

and raised in Harlem. Growing up, her mom sewed dresses from scratch for the family, giving Self an early introduction to the textiles that texture her collages. “My mother collected a lot of fabrics,” she says, and some of them have ended up in the artist’s own pieces. She also looks to fabric shops and thrift stores for textiles and incorporates everyday materials like bed sheets.

Self’s work, which includes painting as well as sculpture and animation, is grounded in thinking about “the experience of living inside a body.”

While her art strives to represent the complexities of the black female experience, she takes issue with how work by white, male artists is framed as universal, while women and artists of color frequently get asked to talk about how their identity

TSCHABALALA SELF

relates to their work. “I don’t mind talking about my identity, just everyone should be asked about it,” she contends. “If you’re a white, male artist, your work is about being a white male as much as my work is about being a black woman.”

Currently, Self is preparing for a solo show in London in January and another exhibition in Rome in 2018. The latter, she notes, “is going to have a lot of animation in it,” explaining that she might return to a concept from a past series of paintings called “The Function,” and explore the theme of house parties. “I love parties because of all the social dynamics, like jealousy, anger, excitement, nervousness...It might be the perfect time to take that house party project to the next level,” she suggests before adding, “I’m not sure yet. I have plenty of time.”

TOP HILLIER BARTLEY EARRING VINTAGE FROM SCREAMING MIMI’S ON EYES M.A.C. PRO LONGWEAR WATERPROOF COLOUR STICK IN IRIS EYES ON LIPS M.A.C. TENDERTALK LIP BALM IN TEDDY PINK MAKEUP KANAKO TAKASE (TIM HOWARD MANAGEMENT) HAIR SHINGO SHIBATA (THE WALL GROUP) MANICURE HOLLY FALCONE (KATE RYAN INC) SET DESIGN ANDY HARMAN (LALALAND ARTISTS) DIGITAL TECHNICIAN KASANDRA TORRES PHOTO ASSISTANTS GABI WOROSZ AND GUARIONEX RODRIGUEZ STYLIST ASSISTANT EMMA LITVACK MAKEUP ASSISTANTS KUMA AND MEGUMI ONISHI HAIR ASSISTANT WALTON NUNEZ RETOUCHING CHROMA NY LOCATION AND EQUIPMENT ROOT STUDIOS

COCO KÖNIG

For an actress with roots in dramatic theater, the world is most definitely her stage.

“The energy here can’t compare to anything else,” con- “It’s the sort of play everyone has to read in school,” her acting for the camera. “Going from theater to film, tends Austrian-born Coco König about her new home, adding, “When I read it at like 12 or 13 years old, you have to make sure your acting is as natural as New York. “From an acting perspective, I have so many I never imagined I would have been able to play this possible,” she explains. people that I can start imitating from just living here. part in one of the most important theaters in Europe.”

The mentoring that König’s character finds in Everyone has their own character and you get to meet The theater production was also broadcast live on The Carer mirrors a real-life bond the young actress so many people you didn’t know existed.”

German television. had with Swiss theater and film director Luc Bondy, These days, the 20-year-old actress is juggling Barely out of her teens, König is already a veteran of who passed away in 2015. The actress recalls the guileless beginnings of this formative relationship: courses at NYU with a hectic schedule of film and the theater world, working regularly since her debut at theater work. “I was doing a play in Germany,” König 14 with a small role in a play penned by Peter Handke, as a kid, she marched right up to the director and says, “and I was flying back every single week for the the Austrian writer perhaps best known outside Europe announced that she wanted to be an actor and would play, which was pretty intense.” The reason for rack- for his collaborations with Wim Wenders. Now, König love to work with him. “When I was 14, I looked like 11, ing up so many air miles was that König landed the is branching out into film. This year, she starred oppo- so I think he thought it was funny and cute,” she recalls. role of Amalia in a high-profile production of Friedrich site Scottish theater legend Brian Cox in The Carer. “He was like, ‘Okay, let’s do it!’” Soon after, Bondy gave Schiller’s Die Räuber. Considered instrumental to the She was also cast in a cinematic adaptation of the König her first role and they continued to work together development of European melodrama, König notes that blockbuster video game, Assassin’s Creed. Filming over the years. “Everything I know,” König insists, Die Räuber is “a very tragic play.” She goes on to say, these projects, König knew she would have to adjust “I know from him.”

DRESS GIVENCHY ON EYES M.A.C. EYESHADOW IN RED BRICK ON CHEEKS M.A.C. POWDER BLUSH IN OH, MY! ON LIPS M.A.C. PATENTPOLISH LIP PENCIL IN MAKE ME PROUD

A Calvin Klein poster child and muse to fashion line Gypsy Sport, this is one face you won’t soon forget.

“One day, I was just some kid partying and, the next, all these people were trying to hit me up to take photos of me,” recounts model, muse, and musician Seashell Coker, who first turned heads at underground parties in Bushwick when she was still underage. “One of the first parties I went to, people were like, ‘Who are you?’ Not in a rude way, but they were just surprised by my look.”

Before she even signed to a modeling agency, Coker found herself cast in Calvin Klein’s Fall 2016 #mycalvins campaign. Her freckled mug was plastered on billboards around the world, including one right at the busy SoHo intersection of Houston and Lafayette.

“I almost had a panic attack,” recalls Coker about the first time she went to peek at the towering ad.

She notes that the whole experience was pretty

surreal. “I always thought I was just some kid and now I’m doing things I never thought I would do,” admits the 22-year-old, before adding, “Seeing myself in a magazine or on a billboard doesn’t necessarily make me feel happy. It makes me feel weird.”

Coker grew up shuttling back and forth between her mom in San Diego and her dad in Brooklyn. At 19, she moved to New York full-time and quickly became a member of the Gypsy Sport clan, walking four out of their past five runway shows. “Gypsy Sport was my introduction to the fashion world,” notes Coker, who credits working with Rio Uribe’s irreverent genderbending brand as helping her transition from posing for streetwear labels to landing editorial shoots.

The saucer-eyed, gap-toothed beauty has also crossed over into the art world. She features in videos,

SEASHELL COKER

photos, and paintings by It Girl artists like Chloe Wise and Petra Collins.

When she’s not posing or holding down a day job at Opening Ceremony, Coker pursues a bedroom-pop music project, crafting songs about boy problems marked by modified, high-pitched vocals. Between her recording persona, Baby Perrier, and her Instagram avatar @sleepy.angel, she embraces everything sweet and cute.

“I don’t think I portray myself as younger than I am, but a lot of people automatically assume that I’m still a teenager. I think it’s just because of how I look,” explains Coker, whose features seem straight out of a Betty Boop cartoon. “I’m like, If that’s working I might as well run with it. Why fix something that’s not broken?”

BODY LANGUAGE

A SAILOR GOES UNDER THE NEEDLE AT A TATTOO PARLOR IN COPENHAGEN, EARLY 1940s.

PERMANENT MARKER For more than 5,000 years, tattoos have helped broadcast our belief in everything from sacred symbols to SpongeBob SquarePants.

52 VMAGAZINE.COM 56

“Tattooing’s place in popular culture has certainly shifted,” said tattoo artist Scott Campbell in Miami, Florida this past December. “I think with all the exposure and understanding that people now have regarding tattoos, the biggest trend is, really, the avoidance of trends. People strive to have something that no one else has.”

Campbell’s sentiment about our era’s destigmatization of body modification practices is the result of a centuries-spanning legacy of personal expression, one that can be found across such disparate cultures as Ancient Egypt and modern Japan. The oldest tattoos discovered so far come from 3250 BC and belong to Ötzi, a Tyrolean man found beneath an Italian glacier. His remains show a total of 61 tattoos, mainly dots and lines that researchers are still trying to decode. Less puzzling are the tattoos found on a number of mummified women from Ancient Egypt, circa 2000 BC. Many boast a “net” of dots around the stomach, as well as little characters of the deity Bes, defender of children and women in labor, on their upper thighs. According to the Smithsonian, the motifs suggest that these markings were applied for safeguarding during pregnancy.

The list goes on: in 450 BC, the Greek writer Herodotus penned that, within the Scythian and Thracian societies, “tattoos were a mark of nobility, and not to have them was a testimony of low birth.” Other research suggests, however, that during that same era tattoos were also used as a way to keep track of human property or as a punitive measure—an all too familiar and chilling function employed much later by the Nazis during World War II. Tattoo culture has further dark corners: consider the gang Mara Salvatrucha’s background of inking its members, in which a majority of the designs have some cumulative element that pays respect to the number 13 (for the group’s nickname, MS-13, ‘M’ being the thirteenth letter in the alphabet). Or examine the putative encyclopedia of Russian criminal tattoos, where each transgression has its own symbology—such as a werewolf for repeat offenders.

Positive associations, though, outweigh the negative. See the extraordinary workmanship in New Zealand’s Maori culture: an elaborate facial “moko” was considered not just a mark of high status, but delivered information about the

TATTOO DESIGNS INSPIRED BY SAILOR JERRY, RENDERED IN SILK ORGANDY AND SEQUINS, APPEARED ON SLEEVELESS TOPS AT MAISON MARGIELA’S SPRING 2014 COUTURE SHOW.

MODELS BACKSTAGE AT THE RODARTE SPRING 2010 SHOW WERE ARMED AND READY FOR THE CATWALK, SPORTING GEOMETRIC BODY PAINT INSPIRED BY TRIBAL DESIGNS.

IT TAKES A STRONG BACKBONE TO ROCK A TATTOO LIKE JAMIE BOCHERT’S SINEWY COMBO OF A BULL SKULL WITH SERPENTINE BODY.

MODEL RICK GENEST (SEEN HERE AT AUSLÄNDER’S SPRING 2012 SHOW) SERVED AS A MUSE TO NICOLA FORMICHETTI DURING THE DESIGNER’S TIME AT MUGLER.

This spread, clockwise from top left: Courtesy Inga Aistrup, from the book Danish Tattoing

by John Nordstrøm; Photography Schohaja; Camera Press Ltd./Alamy; Reuters/Alamy; Photography Giuseppe Cacace/Getty;

individual, including his or her ancestry, knowledge, and abilities. Powerful geometric shapes are found on other Pacific Islands as well, like Samoa and Tonga.

In fact, the word tattoo comes from British explorer James Cook’s expedition to Tahiti in 1769. There, he found that the locals called their markings “tatatau” or “tattau,” meaning to hit or to strike. In the 1930s, one of the tattoo world’s most legendary players, Sailor Jerry, would set up shop a few thousand miles away in Honolulu, Hawaii.

These are but a few examples of how tattoos are a worldwide phenomenon—an international art form meant to convey everything from religious beliefs to antiestablishment leanings. No matter what, though, a tattoo is intimately singular to the wearer. In fashion—a world built almost solely on expression of identity—tattoos are, of course, an area of deep fascination. At Margiela’s Spring 1989 collection, there were sheer tops with mock, all-over-printed inkings. For Spring 1994, Jean Paul Gaultier sent out a collection called “Les Tatouages,” in which Stella Tennant appeared with a skeleton temporarily applied to her stomach, its wild-eyed skull seeming to grin beneath its garland of thorns. Vogue wrote, “[It was] a startling vision of cross-cultural harmony.”

For Spring 2010, Rodarte’s mannequins had daring, Samoan-esque markings sleeving their arms, and one year later Chanel introduced temporary tattoos of jewelry. (They flew off the shelves.) Spring 2011 found Campbell—the tattoo artist quoted above—collaborating on a series of pieces for Louis Vuitton, which incorporated his own artwork. Menswear label Duckie Brown revealed models with temporary tattoos of flowers on their necks and hands at its Spring 2013 show, and for Spring 2014 couture, Maison Margiela paid homage to Sailor Jerry— hints of his works can also be seen in Gigi Hadid and Tommy Hilfiger’s recent collaboration, with anchor motifs aplenty. At their New York Fashion Week unveiling event last September, Hadid and Hilfiger even installed a temporary tattoo booth.

The biggest names in fashion, too, are largely inked. Designer Marc Jacobs is famous for his SpongeBob SquarePants character (rendered by Campbell).

Brock Collection’s Kris Brock has full sleeves. Diesel’s Nicola Formichetti has lots,

too, including ink for his dogs, Tank and Bambi. Freja Beha Erichsen, the Danish model, has the word “float” scripted on her neck. British stunner Cara Delevingne has, among others, a lion on her finger and eyes on the back of her neck. Jamie Bochert, a model from New Jersey, has a snaking, fanned-out skeleton down her spine, its head the skull of a bull. And Rihanna has loads—this writer still remembers seeing the outline of Rih’s Egyptian goddess, inked below her sternum, through a twinkling, sheer Adam Selman dress at the CFDA Awards in 2014.

Ultra-specificity is the name of the game now. Artists fiercely protect their work; nobody wants a proverbial sloppy second. And tattoos have arguably never been so visually accessible. Big fixtures like Dr. Woo and Bang Bang have follower counts in the millions on Instagram (yet obtaining a booking with either, or Campbell for that matter, is next to impossible unless you’re Chris Brown or Justin Bieber). And as each quest for particularity becomes evermore urgent, those in the tattoo community are branching out. During Art Basel in Miami, Campbell opened his traveling “Whole Glory” exhibition (the name serving as a clever reshuffling of the term “glory hole”) at Mana Wynwood, where ten subjects could get inked by the artist—but without knowing what they were getting. “One of the biggest differences between tattooing and other art forms is that, with tattooing, in order to do anything exotic or unusual, you have to have your canvas’s permission,” said Campbell. “I’ve always fantasized of a scenario where I could tattoo with the same freedom with which someone could paint.”

This kind of elevated approach to tattooing—ostensibly as performance piece—is one indicator of the discipline’s future. Conversely, but perhaps equally prophetic, is the resurgence of stick-and-poke tattoos, which are slower to apply, require an even more methodical approach, and create a powerfully intimate experience between artist and recipient. In essence, there appears to be a rising tide of synergistic artful consideration regarding tattoos. And, as long as they remain about individuality and personal statement, fashion will in tandem remain obsessed.

NICK REMSEN

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A thing of beauty, the saying goes, lasts forever. What better way to kick off 2017 than to celebrate the names sure to leave an impression? 56 Fashion’s biggest models get inked—temporarily, that is—for a cover story by Mario Testino and Paul Cavaco. 72 Noah Cyrus (you might know her sister) opens up about tracing her own path, while photographed by Inez & Vinoodh.

78 Ashley Graham bares all in an urban fantasy shot by Steven Klein and Robbie Spencer, and shares her secrets with Chelsea Handler in an interview that would make a sailor blush. 90 Meanwhile, musical newcomer Dua Lipa channels Cher in a shoot with Mario Testino and Tom Guinness that proves her talents are more than skin deep. 102 Photographer Mark Peckmezian and Tom Guinness showcase the boldest looks from Spring that are certain to rub off, not fade away. Finally, in a special edition supplement, Hedi Slimane unveils the first installment from his series, “New York Diary,” an ode to the larger-than-life personalities who have made V’s hometown the Greatest City in the World. As our Spring issue shows, making a mark only begins when you’re ready to draw a line.

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True supermodels last longer than any tattoo, and these seven—each freshly inked —will never lose their luster.

Fashion Paul Cavaco Text Derek Blasberg

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TOP VERA WANG BRIEFS VICTORIA’S SECRET SHOES CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN ON EYES ESTÉE LAUDER SUPERNOIR SHADOW & LINER IN BLACKEST BLACK ON CHEEKS ESTÉE LAUDER BRONZE GODDESS POWDER BRONZER ON LIPS ESTÉE LAUDER PURE COLOR ENVY BLOOMING LIP BALM

PAUL WEARS (THROUGHOUT) TOP, JEANS, SHOES HIS OWN RINGS TANT D’AVENIR

DRESS AND BOOTS MARC JACOBS ON LIPS ESTÉE LAUDER PURE COLOR ENVY SCULPTING LIPSTICK IN RECKLESS ON EYES ESTÉE LAUDER SUMPTUOUS INFINITE DARING LENGTH + VOLUME MASCARA

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DRESS MICHAEL KORS ON EYES ESTÉE LAUDER SUPERNOIR SHADOW & LINER IN BLACKEST BLACK ON EYES ESTÉE LAUDER MAGIC SMOKY POWDER STICK IN INDIGO SMOKE ON NAILS ESTÉE LAUDER PURE COLOR NAIL COLOR IN LOVE BITES

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“Everyone has them today—but for me it started back in the ’90s when I was doing nudes and discovered all of a sudden that tattoos weren’t reserved for sailors and inmates. I bumped into a friend recently, and she told me she’d just been to an actress’s party with a tattoo artist, where she got trashed, and got a tattoo!

I find it amazing how branding has come to this. People love branded content... even on themselves!” — Mario Testino

When I was a kid, I thought tattoos were scary. I grew up in the ultra-conservative American Midwest, and the only people who had them were big, stinky, hairy men who wore leather vests and rode motorcycles and tawdry girls who thought they were sexy and wild because they had little dolphins jumping over rainbows inked on their ankles. But the origins of permanent body art transcend my early opinions (see V’s history of the tattoo feature on page 52) and today, tattoos can mean many things: a way to honor a loved one who is no longer with us, testaments to our spiritual or religious beliefs, or relics of a wild night out that peaked with a moment of bad decision-making.

For this story, we were intrigued by the notion of the eternalness of tattoos in an industry known for constant change. Fashion is a cyclical, season-based business, yet tattoos have never veered too far from the front of the camera. Most of the girls we shot for this story have them somewhere on their body: Kendall Jenner has three—two on her hands and one on the inside of her lip; Amber Valletta has her boyfriend’s initials on her left ring finger, “but you can’t see it unless you really look for it,” she says; and Joan Smalls has her mom’s signature on the left side of her ribs, “close to my heart.” At one point in her life, the most tattooed person here was Carolyn Murphy, though she’s in the process of getting hers removed. “I had always wanted a tattoo so, when I was 25, I got a big one. A very big one. It was on the entire right side of my body: a large Japanese koi fish with waves and peonies,” she says. “But it’s almost gone.”

She’s perhaps the most rebellious here, since making a permanent decision— and then un-making it—is pretty hardcore. Then again, ideas of what constitutes a rebel are subjective. Kendall says she was her most outrageous self when she walked her first ever fashion show nearly naked. (It was Marc Jacobs Fall 2014 and her outfit was completely sheer.) Newcomer Ellen Rosa says, “I think I’m rebelling when I choose to stay home instead of going out!” Lily Aldridge says the most outrageous thing she has ever done is give birth to her daughter, Dixie Pearl Followill.

And Murphy says getting her massive tattoo was only one of her big moments of acting out: “Leaving the industry at the height of my career to live in Costa Rica, turning down a career as an actress because I didn’t want to deal with fame…Not sure if that all makes me ‘bad ass’ or just plain crazy,” she jokes.

Valetta points out that often the best kind of rebel is one with a cause: “The most bad ass thing I’ve done in fashion was in the 1990s. I got Versace, the biggest supermodels, the best hair and makeup all to fly to my hometown Tulsa, Oklahoma, for a charity fashion show. It was for the local food bank and we raised about $300,000.”

But a rebel without a cause will always have a crucial place in fashion, and most of these women agree that designers like Marc Jacobs, Alexander McQueen, and John Galliano are key figures. Rihanna, however, got the most votes for queen of that title. According to my estimation (thanks, Google!), she has more than 25 tattoos, including a shark, her birthday, music notes, crucifixes, and an intricate hand tat that looks like a henna design. “She manages to pull everything off. She can do no fashion wrong!” says Jenner.

As evidenced by RiRi, tattoos are about individualism, which all these girls agree is an important part of modeling today. “Right now, it’s all about personalities! It’s more than just the model, people want to know what you’re about,” says Aldridge.

Rosa wants the uniqueness of different types of bodies back on the runway: “The old glamour of fashion is coming back. I see more curves than usual and I’m loving it!” According to Valletta, “we are in a moment that is about celebrating authenticity.

It feels like there is a need and desire for more of the self-expression and creativity that permeated the industry in the ’90s.”

Murphy, who is looking forward to the day when her body is tat-free, wisely circles back to the idea that the only true constant in fashion is change. “I’ve proven they’re not permanent,” she says. “You can always change your mind and try something new.”

Which reminds me, I should probably tell you that all the tattoos in this story are temporary. DB

DRESS PROENZA SCHOULER ON EYES LANCÔME COLOR DESIGN EYESHADOW IN FRENCH PRESS ON LIPS LANCÔME LIP LOVER LIP GLOSS IN ROSE D’EAU

MAKEUP YADIM (ART PARTNER) HAIR CHRISTIAAN MODELS PAUL LEMAIRE (BANANAS MODELS), KENDALL JENNER (THE SOCIETY MANAGEMENT), LARA STONE, CAROLYN MURPHY, LILY ALDRIDGE, JOAN SMALLS, AMBER VALLETTA (IMG), ELLEN ROSA (DNA MODELS) BODY MAKE-UP ARTIST JENAI CHIN USING SKIN ILLUSTRATOR, KAT VON D BEAUTY AND DIOR NUDE AIR (HALLEY RESOURCES INC.) MANICURE GINA VIVIANO (ARTISTS BY TIMOTHY PRIANO) SET DESIGN ANDREA STANLEY (STREETERS) PRODUCTION GABRIEL HILL AND ROGER DONG (GE PROJECTS) DIGITAL TECHNICIAN JAKOB STORM ONSET RETOUCHER LIAM BLACK PHOTO ASSISTANT ALEX WALTL STYLIST ASSISTANTS NICOLAS EFTAXIAS AND EJ BRIONES MAKEUP ASSISTANTS MONDO LEON, JANESSA PARE, AYA WANTANBE, MAMI IIZUKA HAIR ASSISTANT TAKU SUGAWARA BODY MAKE-UP ASSISTANT MAGDALENA MAJOR MANICURE ASSISTANT SHANI EVANS SET DESIGN ASSISTANTS COLIN LYTTON AND NANSE KAWASHIMA LOCATION CANOE STUDIOS

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NOAH CYRUS The youngest member of a music dynasty takes the wheel and readies to make tracks. (Literally!) Sitting down with V, she discusses her upcoming album and gives new meaning to the phrase driving force.

Photography Inez & Vinoodh

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TOP GUESS JEANS AND JEWELRY NOAH’S OWN

MAKEUP FULVIA FAROLFI (BRYAN BANTRY) HAIR JAMES PECIS (BRYANT ARTISTS) MANICURE RIEKO OKUSA (SUSAN PRICE NYC) EXECUTIVE PRODUCER STEPHANIE BARGAS (VLM PRODUCTIONS) PRODUCTION COORDINATOR EVA HARTE (VLM PRODUCTIONS) STUDIO PRODUCER TUCKER BIRBILIS (VLM PRODUCTIONS) DIGITAL TECHNICIAN BRIAN ANDERSON (VLM STUDIO) LIGHTING DIRECTOR JODOKUS DRIESSEN (VLM STUDIO) STUDIO MANAGER MARC KROOP (VLM STUDIO) PHOTO ASSISTANT JOE HUME (VLM STUDIO) RETOUCHING STEREOHORSE LOCATION SPRING STUDIOS

COAT NILI LOTAN

JACKET GUESS

“I was thinking about what it’s like when you meet somebody and you experience a feeling of first love and then heartbreak.”—Noah Cyrus

JOSEPH AKEL What was it like growing up in the Cyrus household? Was creativity everywhere?

NOAH CYRUS Everyone is super creative in the family. My mom was a producer—she still is. She has a show coming out on Bravo. My brother Braison is one of the most talented guys I’ve ever met. He can pick up any instrument and learn it in like 10 minutes. My brother Trace is in a band called Metro Station. My sister Brandi is in the new show with my mom on Bravo. Miley is so creative and so passionate about everything she does. It’s a really cool family to be in, I have to say.

JA They often say that the youngest sibling in the family is the rebel. Would you say there’s any truth in that?

NC That’s a good question. I wouldn’t say I’m a rebel, but I do like pushing the limits sometimes.

JA Did you have the music bug when you were little?

NC For sure. I was on my dad’s tour bus when I was super little. My dad did a tour of Annie Get Your Gun when I was really little and I loved going and seeing him do that.

JA But at what point did you think, I want to take this to the next level? I mean it’s a big step from having the bug to going out and saying, “I want to put something out for everyone to hear.”

NC About three years ago, right around my 14th birthday. I had been listening to Ben Howard’s album, I Forget Where We Were—I was just crazy about it. It was the best album I’d heard and it was really inspiring to me. I wanted to write my own music after that.

JA There’s a lyric in “Make Me (Cry)”—your first music video—that goes, “Couldn’t see the rain, we’re too busy makin’ hurricanes,” which I love. What was the inspiration behind it? Was there someone you were thinking of?

NC No, I wasn’t thinking of someone in particular for that track, but I was thinking about what it’s like when you meet somebody and you experience a feeling of first love and then heartbreak. I wasn’t speaking of a specific person, I was thinking, What if? What if I didn’t make it out of that relationship?

JA While you’re only 16, your songs have such an emotional maturity to them. Are there singer-songwriters who are role models for you, like Linda Perry or Dolly Parton?

NC Dolly has always been a huge inspiration for me, so you killed it with that one.

Of course, Ben Howard. Lady Gaga—I’ve always looked up to her. When Love Game was released, I freaked out. Sam Smith, Ed Sheeran, Sky Ferreira, those are just a few. But then there are others, like Johnny Cash, who I’d listen to with my dad when I was little.

JA Gaga was a big inspiration for you this year, correct?

NC I have been stuck on Joanne. Gaga has just killed it and this year, with that album, she has really inspired me. She has always inspired me.

JA What is your biggest hope for 2017?

NC I want to get my album out. I want to work really hard and make great music.

I’m excited to have people hear what I’ve been working on for the past two years.

JA What can we expect from your debut album? Where are you in making it?

NC I’m having the greatest time writing songs right now. I’m getting to meet other writers and am making friends out of it. It’s all coming together really well.

JA Describe your creative process to me. When do your lyrics come to you?

NC Often, I could be driving down the highway and I think of something and I go, I gotta put this into my next session. A lot of times I get what I want to write while I’m driving. I love listening to music in the car, perhaps because of my dad—that’s all he does. Whenever he makes a new album, he puts it on in the car and says, “If it sounds good in the car, it’s gonna sound good anywhere.”

JA You’re a prime candidate for “Carpool Karaoke” with James Corden.

NC That is my dream! I think he is amazing. I talk about it all the time. James Corden is literally one of my favorite things to watch.

JA Well, James Corden, when you read this interview, know that Noah Cyrus is ready to bring it on.

NC And I want to drive!

ASHLEY GRAHAM

The swimsuit pin-up and outspoken activist has been labeled many things—but as friend Chelsea Handler discovers, just don’t call this woman plus-size.

Photography Steven Klein Fashion Robbie Spencer

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“I think that being the voice and face for so many women that haven’t been represented—in fashion, or film, or TV—is encouraging, it’s amazing.”

—Ashley Graham

CHELSEA HANDLER Your life has been crazy the last few years, right?

ASHLEY GRAHAM Yeah, 100%. This year has been insane.

CH Have you had one of those moments when you had to remind yourself, Wow, settle down? Like, have you ever caught yourself behaving badly?

AG Are you asking whether I have had one of those typical diva moments?

CH Yes, but I would never use the word diva.

AG Well, thanks for making me use it! How about I was just a bitch and a diva, too. But to be honest, I think there is a negative connotation to the word diva—a diva is someone who works hard and gets what she wants and doesn’t take no for an answer.

CH What is it like now that all of these women are looking to you as role model?

And how does it feel when people ask you what it’s like to be a plus-size model, on a scale of 1-10?

AG Is 10 hating it the most?

CH Yes. AG It’s an 11. I can’t stand that question anymore. I mean, I’ve been doing this now for 17 years and I can’t even tell you how many times I’ve spoken up about the label “plus-size.” I don’t think women should be labeled at all. I think that it’s completely divisive. But, for whatever reason, I am the one that has been given the opportunity to be on so many covers and to have a voice. I don’t take that lightly and I think that being the voice and face for so many women that haven’t been represented— in fashion, or film, or TV—is encouraging, it’s amazing. Some days I forget that and then someone comes to me crying and says, “Because of you, I wore shorts today,” or I’ll get an email that says, “I had sex with my husband with the lights on.”

At those moments, I’m like, Wow, you are changing people’s lives, and you’re doing it by just being yourself.

CH What do you think your strongest, your best quality is?

AG I think one of my best qualities is being able to have a vulnerable moment with anybody. I don’t think that there is anyone that I can’t speak to. I’ve lived in Texas, Georgia, Arkansas, New Hampshire, Nebraska, and I’ve learned to talk to all different types of people because, when you move, you have to make new friends in a new community. That experience didn’t just transform me into a talkative, happy person, it made me value and appreciate getting to know other people on a very personal level.

CH Let’s talk about your clothing lines—you have three. What motivated you to start them? It takes a lot of guts to do something like that.

AG Well, the reason for starting them was kind of selfish. The first line was for my lingerie, and I did it because I couldn’t find lingerie that would fit my 36DDD boobies. Boobies, I can’t believe I just said boobies. Breasts!

CH I always say boobies.

AG Do you? Okay, we are boobie chicks. I always tell my husband, “When we have

children, we are going to use the actual word for the private parts. We are going to say vagina, we are going to say penis, we are going to say breasts!”

CH Looking back, what do you think has been your bravest moment? What are you most proud of?

AG You know, some people think it’s brave to be in front of the camera in lingerie or a swimsuit. But that’s nothing. One of the bravest moments for me was leaving an agent that I had been with for 10 years. I was agentless for about eight months and it was a very scary time of my life—I had no idea what I was going to do. But I sucked it up and said, Hey, whatever happens, happens. And from out of that time, I gathered a community of women around me and we ended up founding ALDA, a collective of models that embraces this idea that beauty exists without regard to color, size, or any number of categories within our industry rooted in exclusion. In our shared pasts, we were always all told, “You’re just catalog girls. You are never going to be on the covers, you will never be able to be who you want.”

CH What are some of the things ALDA is doing right now?

AG Well, every summer we go to a weight-loss camp—it’s called a “weight-loss camp,” but really it’s for girls whose parents place them in this camp because they have issues with weight on various levels. We go there and we talk to them about being comfortable in your own skin, because clearly they are at this camp for a reason.

ALDA is also having conversations with multiple designers about putting curves on the runway—Christian Siriano being one who is receptive to this. Ultimately, what we do is encourage women to be proactive about themselves because, now more than ever, it is time to build up and support the women around you and encourage each other to be who you want to be, to not take no for an answer, and to not let society’s stereotypes take you down.

CH Speaking of building a sisterhood, are you close with your sisters?

AG Oh, it is the quintessential sister relationship. We love each other, we hate each other. We call.. we are like, “Are you on your period? Because you are acting like a real bitch.” But we are also there for each other. We also know that, at the end of the day, we can call each other and mom doesn’t have to know everything.

CH What has been their reaction to your success in the last two years of your life?

AG Oh, they love it! They are getting recognition just as much as I am. Like my baby sister, who just got married in Colorado, had a photo from it go viral on the Internet and she said to me, “Holy cow! Whoopi Goldberg just said my name on The View!”

So, they are loving it, they are just fine.

CH What do you hope your legacy will be?

AG I want to contribute to helping create a world where women can stand up for who they are and express who they want to be. I want to be seen as a woman who helped shape an environment that allows women to be unafraid to take risks, because those are the kinds of women that you remember, those are the women you talk about for generations.

ASHLEY WEARS CAPE SONIA RYKIEL BRA COCO DE MER BRIEFS LANE BRYANT CORSET HOURGLASS ANGEL STOCKINGS WOLFORD ON EYES CLARINS OMBRE MATTE EYESHADOW IN TAUPE ON LIPS CLARINS LIP LINER PENCIL IN NUDE ROSE

ASHLEY WEARS DRESS AND BOOTS BALENCIAGA EARRINGS I STILL LOVE YOU NYC ON EYES L’ORÉAL PARIS HIGH INTENSITY PIGMENTS MATTE SHADOW DUO IN ANIMATED ON LIPS CLARINS JOLI ROUGE LIPSTICK IN JOLI ROUGE HUNTER WEARS SWIMSUIT SPEEDO

MAKEUP YADIM (ART PARTNER) HAIR WARD (THE WALL GROUP) MODELS ASHLEY GRAHAM, TYSON BALLOU (IMG), LOUIS BUBKO (FUSION MODELS), HUNTER BACH (MC2 MODELS) MANICURE HONEY (EXPOSURE NY) CASTING (LOUIS BUBKO AND HUNTER BACH) NOAH SHELLY / AM CASTING EXECUTIVE PRODUCER CAROLINE STRIDFELDT (LOLA PRODUCTION) PRODUCER GREG JAROSZEWSKI (LOLA PRODUCTION) DIGITAL TECHNICIAN TADAAKI SHIBUYA POST PRODUCTION JIM ALEXANDROU TAILOR DONNA DARNALL (LARS NORD) PHOTO ASSISTANTS ALEX LOCKETT, MARK LUCKSAVAGE, TIM SHIN, ALEXEI TOPOUNOV STYLIST ASSISTANTS VICTOR CORDERO, ALISON MARIE ISBELL, KIRSTEN MCGOVERN MAKEUP ASSISTANTS JANESSA PARE, MAMI IIZUKA AND AYA WATANABE HAIR ASSISTANTS BILLY SCHAEDLER AND KIRI YOSHIKI PRODUCTION ASSISTANTS HANNAH HUFFMAN (LOLA PRODUCTION), JOEL GRENNON, CHAUNDRA REVIER EQUIPMENT ROOT STUDIOS LOCATION THE STANDARD, HIGH LINE

ASHLEY WEARS BRA LANE BRYANT BRIEFS AMERICAN APPAREL ON EYES MAYBELLINE NEW YORK COLOR TATTOO EYE CHROME IN BOLD SAPPHIRE ON LIPS CLARINS JOLI ROUGE BRILLIANT LIPSTICK IN CHERRY

OPPOSITE PAGE, ASHLEY WEARS BRA LANE BRYANT BRIEFS AMERICAN APPAREL HUNTER WEARS PANTS GUCCI

With a bold sound, devilish charm, and the face of an angel, this is one musician who’s not your average pop star—she’s hotter than hell.

Photography Mario Testino Fashion Tom Guinness Text William Defebaugh

DRESS LOUIS VUITTON BOOTS MANOLO BLAHNIK EARRINGS TIFFANY & C0.

GOLD RING (THROUGHOUT) JENNIFER FISHER ON EYES M.A.C. DAZZLESHADOW IN SHE SPARKLES ON LIPS M.A.C. MINERALIZE RICH LIPSTICK IN CYBERNAUT ON NAILS ESSIE NAIL POLISH IN LEGGY LEGEND VMAGAZINE.COM 95

DRESS FENDI BRIEFS (UNDERNEATH) LA PERLA BELT VINTAGE YSL FROM RESURRECTION ARCHIVE EARRINGS TIFFANY & CO. BRACELET ALEXIS BITTAR BOOTS CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN ON EYES M.A.C. FALSE LASHES IN EXTREME BLACK ON LIPS M.A.C. LIPSTICK IN STRIP ME DOWN

HEADBAND NY VINTAGE ON EYES M.A.C. PIGMENT IN SILVER ON LIPS M.A.C. LIPGLASS IN MYTH

“I have to do this and be my own person. It pushed me not to give up on my dreams because it was the only thing I had my heart set on from the very start.” —Dua Lipa

Twenty-one-year-old Dua Lipa is one of those rare, once-in-a-generation artists that has it all: naturally gorgeous looks, business-savvy ambition, the presence of a diva without the attitude of one (much like Cher, who served as the inspiration for this shoot), and a soulful voice that lends easier comparisons to Amy Winehouse than any other artist on mainstream radio today.

As a young girl growing up in London, Lipa always knew she would pursue a career in the performing arts. She trained from an early age at the Sylvia Young Theatre School, where she honed her voice, until her family decided to relocate to their home country of Albania when she was 11—forcing her to put a pin in her aspirations, and spend her early teenage years dreaming of a life of stardom outside her new home.

“I didn’t want to pursue music in Kosovo because I didn’t feel like there was any way of me getting out to a more global audience,” recalls the singer. “And it just didn’t seem like the viral thing existed. If I were to post covers and hope for the best—that someone would find me and ship me away from Kosovo—that didn’t seem realistic, and all I wanted was to just make music.”

At the age of 15, she finally convinced her parents to let her move back to London on her own to pursue her passion. She and another girl from Kosovo got a flat together in the city, where Lipa attended high school and quickly learned to take care of herself. It was an experience that she now sees as being integral to her becoming the artist she is today: “I think that period of my life really made me who I am because I knew the reason why I was there and what I wanted. I started posting covers online and having this crazy determination about what I wanted to do and just went for it.

I was like, Okay, no one else can create my future for me and no one can get what I want for me, so I have to go out and get it myself. I have to do this and be my own person. It pushed me to not give up on my dreams because it was the only thing I had my heart set on from the very start.”

In the years that followed, Lipa wrangled meeting after meeting with members of the music industry—many of whom told her that they were simply not interested in taking on a new pop act—while supporting herself as a model and nightclub hostess on the side. Eventually, she met her soon-to-be manager Ben Mawson, who saw huge, untapped potential in the young singer. (Mawson also manages Lana Del Rey, a fact that would later garner numerous early comparisons between the two musicians.)

When she was 18, she signed her record deal with Warner Bros. Records. Shortly after, she began working on her debut album, drawing influences from ’90s pop sirens like Nelly Furtado and P!nk as well as contemporary rappers, including Kendrick Lamar, whose honesty and dark subject matter she finds inspiring. In August 2015, just before turning 20, she released her first single, “New Love,” about being a new artist in the music industry. Her follow-up track “Be the One,” released a few months later, was never intended to go to radio—only to blogs and online outlets—but it quickly grabbed the attention of the recording world. She began getting radio requests in other countries, setting off a chain reaction that would eventually result in the song charting in 21 countries and earning over 88 million views on YouTube.

In the time since, she’s already scored two more hit singles with “Blow Your Mind (Mwah)” and “Hotter Than Hell,” garnered an impressive social media following (she’s at nearly 500 thousand Instagram followers as we go to press), booked numerous television performances including The Today Show and The Tonight Show starring Jimmy Fallon, headlined a European tour, and scored a stint opening for Troye Sivan on his sold-out Suburbia tour in the United States—all leading up to her album launch this February.

Despite her boundless determination, confidence is not a trait that has always come naturally to Lipa. “Today was one of the ballsiest things I’ve ever done,” she says after this shoot. “It made me get out of my comfort zone and feel really confident. It was the first time I was willing to even get undressed in front of someone [at a shoot]. I’m learning to accept myself. I’m still in the process of learning to love who I am. And it’s been really refreshing and really nice to be able to do that and be okay. I think my fans have brought that out in me.”

The subject of confidence is one she tackles most directly in her empowerment anthem, “Hotter Than Hell,” which she wrote about a former flame who made her feel like she was never good enough. After a televised performance in Sweden, one fan came up to her with a letter thanking her for making her “feel hotter than hell,” a sentiment that reverberated deeply with Lipa. “Now when I sing it, I don’t think of the person [I wrote it about], but how it helped me get over that. And to see that something that was so therapeutic for me made someone else feel good.”

It’s this newfound confidence, coupled with her raw, unfalsifiable voice, that will ultimately be Lipa’s most powerful weapons in proving herself to an industry that is immediately skeptical of any artist who appears too perfect to be true. (Just look at Del Rey, who had to prove her authenticity after being deemed too manufactured.) Luckily, Lipa knows this: “I want people to know that music has always been my one and only goal. I want them to know that everything else comes secondary, that I’m an artist first before anything else.”

PANTS BALENCIAGA EARRINGS TIFFANY & C0.

ON EYES M.A.C. HAUTE & NAUGHTY TOO BLACK LASH ON NAILS ESSIE NAIL POLISH IN BLANC

THIS PAGE: KIMONO AND BOOTS MARC JACOBS BELT ALBRIGHT FASHION LIBRARY EARRINGS ALEXANDER WANG ON EYES M.A.C. PRO LONGWEAR PAINT POT IN LET ME POP ON LIPS M.A.C. VELVETEASE LIP PENCIL IN TEASE ME OPPOSITE: ON EYES M.A.C. LIQUIDLAST LINER IN POINT BLACK

“I want people to know that music has always been my one and only goal. I want them to know that everything else comes secondary, that I’m an artist first before anything else.”

—Dua Lipa TO WATCH A VIDEO FROM DUA’S SHOOT FEATURING A SPECIAL PERFORMANCE, VISIT VMAGAZINE.COM

JACKET GUCCI GLASSES DIOR FROM SILVER LINING OPTICIANS

DRESS CÉLINE BOOTS MANOLO BLAHNIK EARRING JENNIFER FISHER ON EYES M.A.C. PIGMENT IN GOLD ON LIPS M.A.C. ULTIMATE LIPSTICK IN TO SAVOUR ON NAILS ESSIE IN SEQUIN SASH

MAKEUP YADIM (ART PARTNER) HAIR CHRISTIAAN MANICURE GINA VIVIANO (ARTISTS BY TIMOTHY PRIANO) SET DESIGN JULIA WAGNER PRODUCTION GABRIEL HILL AND ROGER DONG (GE PROJECTS) DIGITAL TECHNICIAN JAKOB STORM PHOTO ASSISTANTS ALEX WALTL, PATRICK ROXAS, WILLIAM TAKAHASHI STYLIST ASSISTANT BIANCA RAGGI MAKEUP ASSISTANTS JANESSA PARE AND AYA WATANABE SET DESIGN ASSISTANTS MELISSA LIVAUDAIS AND DYLAN BAILEY PRODUCTION ASSISTANTS STEFAN CHRISTOPHER, STEPHAN WERK, GUS POTTER, DAVID KING ON-SET RETOUCHING LIAM BLACK LOCATION PIER 59 STUDIOS CATERING DISHFUL

CAPE BURBERRY BODYSUIT (UNDERNEATH) VINTAGE YSL FROM ALBRIGHT FASHION LIBRARY EARRINGS TIFFANY & CO.

SPRING FORWARD Paying homage to ’80s label Bodymap, newcomer Cara Taylor channels androgynous icon Leslie Winer in a modern take on Spring’s most glam looks—think patent leather, pattern play, and Dynasty shoulders.

Photography Mark Peckmezian Fashion Tom Guinness Text Sara Zion

THIS PAGE: TOP, COAT, EARRING, BOOTS BALENCIAGA RING DRIES VAN NOTEN

OPPOSITE PAGE: JACKET CHANEL EARRING BALENCIAGA ON EYES CHANEL ILLUSION D’OMBRE VELVET EYESHADOW IN MELODY ON EYES CHANEL STYLO YEUX WATERPROOF EYELINER IN NOIR INTENSE ON LIPS CHANEL LÈVRES SCINTILLANTES GLOSSIMER IN CONSTELLATION VMAGAZINE.COM 107

THIS PAGE: JACKET GUCCI TIGHTS SPROUSE FROM RESURRECTION ARCHIVE BOOTS JUNYA WATANABE FROM RESURRECTION ARCHIVE OPPOSITE PAGE: DRESS SAINT LAURENT

BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO SHORTS SPROUSE FROM RESURRECTION ARCHIVE

When Cara Taylor first told me over email that her modeling career began when she was discovered on Instagram, I immediately had to navigate to her profile to see what sparked the frenzy surrounding the Alabama teen. Her early account activity shows an innocent girl smiling wide while climbing trees, jumping off of docks and white-water rafting with family and friends. A few weeks later, over avocado toast during one of Cara’s stopovers in New York, she herself tells me that her hobbies include, “volleyball, camping [and] hiking” and that before she “got into modeling [she] was blind [to fashion] and knew nothing [about it].” Though she seems to have learned quickly, with so many young models falling victim to media pressures and turning to unhealthy means to be rail-thin, her active lifestyle and down-to-earth attitude are a refreshing change of pace in an industry so often void of healthy and athletic figures in favor of waifish frames.

Scrolling to more recent images, however, her page showcases a variety of edgy high-fashion looks, with Cara posing in advertisements for brands like Prada and Coach and editorial stories with famed photographers like Patrick Demarchelier and Steven Meisel. With an intensity in her eyes and a pout that is decidedly strong and serious, it’s hard to believe that the runway model is fifteen and only fell into the world of fashion a few months ago. Her slightly upturned nose and high cheekbones make it easy to draw comparisons to a young Kate Moss or Linda Evangelista, while her strong jawline coupled with a chopped bob courtesy of her runway debut at Alexander Wang’s Spring / Summer 2017 show (and cut even shorter at the Prada show she walked the same season) make it easy for her to embody the epitome of androgynous beauty that harkens back to 80’s icons like model/musician Leslie Winer (who served as the inspiration for this story by stylist Tom Guinness and photographer Mark Peckmezian).

Guinness was immediately drawn to that very projection of power when he met Cara as a potential candidate for this project. When asked why he ultimately chose

her to actualize his vision for this shoot, Guinness says, “Cara has a classic American beauty look, chic and essential with a hint of preppy masculinity. It’s that strength and practicality which I think defines good American models- I like that Cara as well as Leslie Winer… embody that classic American sportswear look but also have an ability to channel [the attitudes] of rebellion and punk.” While Cara can illustrate the apathetic expression of a seasoned fashion veteran, in real life she is almost the complete opposite; Guinness describes her as, “sweet… but curious about the industry and hard working.” Her bubbly excitement is almost contagious as she describes the rush she felt on the Wang runway, feeling, “like a cool kid walking down the hallway.”

The past six months have been full of surprises for Cara, who tells me that she was not even aware that she was set to close Maria Grazia Chiuri’s inaugural Christian Dior Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear show until the rehearsal the day prior. She gushes about her look, saying, “it was so elegant, I felt so confident in it… I just loved it!” We speak more about the show and Cara draws attention to the feminist views projected by the clothing and the fact that Chirui is the brand’s first female designer– a notable rarity in the male-dominated world of high fashion. It’s clear that, though she is somewhat green to the industry, Cara is at least somewhat aware of the political climate into which she has fallen, telling me another of her favorite moments was stomping down the Wang runway to the unmistakably female-empowering anthem ‘Tomboy’ by Princess Nokia. As our conversation continues, Cara tells me that her, “goal in the industry is to… reach as far as I can go. If I can have a little positive impact… that would be great too!” and I feel once again like I am conversing with an experienced professional.

All of a sudden, though, the topic turns to homework and getting her driver’s permit and I am quickly reminded that this is still a new and exciting ride for the teenager.

Here’s hoping it’s a long one.

THIS PAGE: JACKET FENDI BODYSUIT BODYMAP FROM RESURRECTION ARCHIVE BOOTS COMME DES GARÇONS FROM RESURRECTION ARCHIVE

OPPOSITE PAGE: JACKET RALPH LAUREN JUMPSUIT HILLIER BARTLEY ON EYES CHANEL ILLUSION D’OMBRE VELVET EYESHADOW IN MIRAGE ON EYES CHANEL LE CRAYON YEUX EYELINER IN TEAK ON LIPS CHANEL ROUGE COCO BAUME LIP BALM

THIS PAGE: JACKET CÉLINE TOP AND PANTS SPROUSE FROM RESURRECTION ARCHIVE BOOTS JUNYA WATANABE FROM RESURRECTION ARCHIVE EARRING CHANEL

OPPOSITE PAGE: TOP AND PANTS CHRISTIAN DIOR DRESS BODYMAP FROM RESURRECTION ARCHIVE BOOTS JUNYA WATANABE FROM RESURRECTION ARCHIVE EARRING CHANEL

JACKET EMPORIO ARMANI TURTLENECK BODYMAP FROM RESURRECTION ARCHIVE

MAKEUP VIRGINIA YOUNG (MELBOURNE ARTISTS MANAGEMENT) HAIR TOMI KONO (JULIAN WATSON AGENCY)

JACKET CALVIN KLEIN BODYSUIT YOHJI YAMAMOTO BOOTS HOOD BY AIR

TOP, DRESS, BOOTS JUNYA WATANABE

MAKEUP VIRGINIA YOUNG (MELBOURNE ARTISTS MANAGEMENT) HAIR TOMI KONO (JULIAN WATSON AGENCY) MODEL CARA TAYLOR (SILENT MODELS NY) MANICURE GINA EDWARDS (KATE RYAN INC) SET DESIGN DARYL MCGREGOR (LALALAND ARTISTS) PRODUCTION WEBBER REPRESENTS PHOTO ASSISTANTS MIKE FESWICK, JORDAN JAMES, WILL TAKAHASI STYLIST ASSISTANT BIANCA RAGGI HAIR ASSISTANT LEVI MONARCH SET DESIGN ASSISTANTS SAM JASPERSON AND JACK DE SOUSA RETOUCHING PAUL KORZAN LOCATION AND EQUIPMENT ATTIC STUDIOS CATERING GREEN BROWN ORANGE

JACKET,TOP, TROUSERS HOOD BY AIR

THE DRINK of CHOICE

HEDI SLIMANE’S NEW YORK DIARY

Hedi Slimane’s New York Diary Part One

Everyone has their own New York story. Whether you were born here or came in search of something more, the city that never sleeps has always welcomed those who dare to make their dreams a reality. In the first of a portfolio series photographed by Hedi Slimane, V Magazine pays homage to the artists, writers, and musicians who continue to keep the city’s heart beating.

James Chance “[New York] has become so straight compared to the way it was [in the 1970s and ’80s]…There was such an incredible influx of young people with no money who just came here to do something creative. And people like that just couldn’t exist in New York the way it is now...The young people who are coming here now are rich kids, basically...When I told people in Milwaukee I was coming to New York, they all said, ‘Oh, you better get a gun! You better get a gun if you’re going on the subway.’ I mean, I was mugged a couple times... but I was always pretty comfortable.”—SuperDeluxe, 2007

Dani Miller of Surfbort “The streets are magical. The people here are so hardworking and full of life.

In bleak times, we support each other. My band—Sean Powell, Charlotte Wimberley and Alex Kilgore—all make art with different mediums (painting, screenprinting, film), and being in such a fast-paced, overstimulating place like New York breeds a hyper-creative environment. As soon as I get to my front door from walking through the streets, I already have many images racing through my mind to translate into my art.”

Dan Graham “My experience in seeing New York’s shopping streets was very important to me.

When I was 14, I read Jean-Paul Sartre’s Being and Nothingness and I think my interest in the inter-subjective gaze comes from his idea of the child’s ‘mirror stage’ in terms of cities. Showcase windows use ‘mirror stage’ optics: when you’re looking at a display you see both the products and—on fragmented mirrors—distorted images of yourself as an un-whole body. A ghost image of yourself is displayed, superimposed on the product; if you buy the product then you can become whole again.”—Frieze, 2012 VMAGAZINE.COM 123

Kembra Pfahler “New York means home to me. Freedom. Independence. I have a cool place to live here that I try to share with my friends and family. Growing up in Los Angeles, entertainment culture permeates everything, even if you have no desire to be in show business. New York artists have their anonymity if they want it. It’s not as important who you are as much as what you make happen.”

Hannah Mohan of And The Kids “New York means getting used to the smell of urine and making friends with rats. Resilience, blinding passion, perseverance. It’s a city built for dreamers, by dreamers, at the expense of dreamers.”

Martin Rev “New York is what it makes you feel.”

Thurston Moore “In a free lane, ghosts passing time Heat rises, lights through the town Blown soundscapes, blue city eyes Black lightning, a new angel flies” “Free City Rhymes,” from the Sonic Youth album NYC Ghosts & Flowers

Eileen Myles “I lived through the New York blackout in 1977. Everybody had a really good time in bars—all drinks were the same price. There were only candles and a woman was directing traffic on 8th Street in a nightgown and a lantern. People immediately reverted to fun and togetherness. All blackouts (two I’ve lived through) and 9/11 had this New York collective intimacy, which I know as home.”

Jack + Eliza “We were both born and raised here...I feel like it’s in my blood at this point to enjoy doing a lot at once, to like being overstimulated, to fear relaxation...The energy is just different here and isn’t comparable to anything or anywhere.” —Eliza Callahan

Lydia Lunch “I crash-landed in NYC at 16 in 1976 ready to riot. I was a teenage art terrorist, with a baby face and killer instincts. I moved into a loft in Chelsea where Lenny Bruce’s daughter Kitty was moving out of. The group Suicide were playing at Max’s Kansas City. They were my first friends. I started Teenage Jesus and the Jerks because spoken word didn’t really exist yet. Weirdly enough, half the songs were instrumentals.”

Genesis P-Orridge “All my life until 1968, we kept moving for my father’s jobs, so developed NO set of lifelong friends at all. New York is the very first city we have missed when abroad. Been thrilled to butterflies on seeing the skyline in a taxi from JFK. It is the place and community that accepted me, my ideas, and aspirations, without hesitation. We finally DO have a lifelong group of special friends. We love being private or partying without having to justify my choices.

Being accepted after a lifetime of rejection, ridicule, and ignorance. Everyone can find their own chosen family here, the others who are their ‘tribe.’”

Francesco Clemente Q: What era best represents New York’s golden age for you?

A: Tomorrow.

Production Kim Pollock Equipment Milk DGTL Location ACME Studio, Fast Ashleys Studios, Øutpost Studio, LightSpace Studios Catering Monterone

Keltie Ferris “I first visited in the late ’80s as a kid. I was shocked by the homeless people begging in the extreme cold and how you were supposed to ignore it.

Less shocking was the public sex I witnessed hours later.”

V Magazine presents the first installment of Hedi Slimane’s New York Diary, published inV105, Jan/Feb 2017.

Copyright Š 2017 V Magazine LLC.

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