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DELOREANÂŽ and related marks, trade dress, and logos are intellectual property of DeLorean Motor Company and are used under license. 800.929.Dior (3467)
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VMAN Spring/Summer 2020 Editorial
Design
Advertising
Contributors
Editor-in-Chief / Creative Director Stephen Gan
Art Director Gabriele Baldotto
Managing Editor / Production Director Melissa Scragg
Designer Shibo Chen
Associate Publisher / Advertising Director Nicola Bernardini de Pace nico@vmagazine.com
Chris Colls Sølve Sudnsbø George Cortina Brett Lloyd Tom Guinness Blair Getz Mezibov Doug Inglish Christian Stroble Marcus Ohlsson Torbjørn Rødland Britt Lloyd Marie Tomanova Chris Smith Álvaro Beamud Cortés Igor Pjörrt Elina Kechicheva Diana Lunt Simon Pylyser Ian Kenneth Bird Giovanni Corabi Julia Gray Winter Vandenbrink Brais Vilasó Connor Franta James Robjant Ryan Jenq Cece Liu Jos Van Heel Nicholas Georgiou Reuben Esser Dan Carter Emmanuel Sanchez Philippa Snow Amit Luzon
Editor Devin Barrett Features Editor Samuel Anderson Photo Director Goran Macura Editor, Entertainment Greg Krelenstein Assistant to the Editor-in-Chief Melissa Morales Contributing Editor-at-Large Derek Blasberg Copy & Research Editor Lynda Szpiro
Digital Digital Director Mathias Rosenzweig mathias@vmagazine.com Consulting Digital Editor Ian David Monroe ian@vmagazine.com Digital Editor Dania Curvy dania@vmagazine.com Social Media Manager Kevin Ponce kevin@vmagazine.com
Consulting Creative / Design Greg Foley
Fashion Contributing Fashion Directors Paul Cavaco Gro Curtis Fashion and Market Editor Aryeh Lappin Assistant Market Editor Sam Knoll
Advertising Office, Italy and Switzerland Magazine International Luciano Bernardini de Pace luciano@bernardini.it Daniela Sartori daniela@bernardini.it Marketing & Special Projects Manager Sara Zaidane sara@vmagazine.com
Press and Events
Contributing Fashion Editors Nicola Formichetti Anna Trevelyan Amanda Harlech Jacob K Joe McKenna Melanie Ward Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele Clare Richardson Panos Yiapanis Jane How Tom Van Dorpe
Purple PR Andrew Lister Jocelyn Mak Amy Choi amy.choi@purplepr.com
Beauty Editor Stella Pak
Managing Director Todd Kamelhar
Finance/Distribution Business Manager Kelly Keegan kelly@vmagazine.com Distribution David Renard Office Manager / Distribution Assistant Julie Gray
Special Thanks Art + Commerce Annemiek Ter Linden Yael Peres Kate McKeon Exposure NY Stacy Fisher Audrey Greene Serlin Associates Philippa Serlin WYO Artists Karen Long IMG Kevin Apana Morgan Rubenstein Xenia Mclaughin DNA Tony Craig Jon Tutolo Next Samuel Zakuto The Society Peeta Martinez The Wall Group Elena Lakomina Gregg Rudner Mandy Smudlers Christopher Ridley Lillie Blaustein Jason Woo Ford Sam Doerfler VNY Lana Winters Soul Lindsey LeGarrec Heroes Jonathon Reis Streeters Daniel Weiner Paige Phillips D+V Management Sarah Clements Carmel Reeves Total Management Charlie Brierley Frank Reps Sara Catullo L’Atelier NYC Malena Holcomb Interlude project Elena Mereu Elena Sophia Ivaldi Intrepid London Rebekah Lichter Michaella Kossakowska LGA Management Lucy Slade DT Model Management David Todd Two Management Daniel Ditch Wilhelmina Gene Kogan Joseph Barley Talent and Partner Mariam Boulares Charlotte Moulin Tomorrow Is Another Day Dilan Cicek Artlist Paris Carole Trques Opus Jovita Lee
Interns
Czar Van Gaal Mina Erkli Calem Robertson Jenna Solomon Shane Bundrant Dylan Kelly Valerie Stepanova Michaela Zee Hailee Milton Allie Kenvin Sam Ford
Cover 1 Jacob Elordi wears jacket Baracuta Watch Omega Cover 2 Jacob Elordi wears top Balenciaga
VMAN is a registered trademark of VMAN LLC. Copyright © 2020 VMAN LLC. All rights reserved. Printed in U.S.A. VMAN (BIPAD 96492) is published biannually by VMAN LLC.
Cover 3 Jacob Elordi wears jacket Schott NYC
Photography Connor Franta Fashion Christian Stroble Mitchell and Peter wear all clothing and accessories Celine by Hedi Slimane
Coinciding with the start of a new decade, the Spring/Summer 2020 collections reflect a new chapter in menswear. Tailoring and classicism signal a return to foundational men’s staples, cutting a fresh silhouette in the light of 2020. Even as the streetwear revolution continues apace, old-world elegance is reaching new heights, projecting a timeless fusion of preppy sophistication and relaxed cool. As the world turns at the speed of global connectivity, fashion isn’t the only cultural force stopping us in our globetrotting tracks. Take cover star Jacob Elordi. After swiftly jumping from YA Netflix fare to a jaw-dropping turn as Nate on HBO’s Euphoria, the Aussie actor plots a full-scale evolution. As a test of his Hollywood endurance, we put Elordi in the literal driver’s seat: On a racetrack in the California desert, the actor harnesses his leading-man horsepower. With photographer Chris Colls and stylist Nicola Formichetti in the pit, our cover star breaks barriers. Elsewhere, we find Brett Lloyd and Tom Guinness, along with Italian actor Lorenzo Zurzolo, trekking Ireland. There, the team test drives the season’s aristocratic tailoring, steering the look to new peaks. In Preppy Punk, Gro Curtis and Blair Getz Mezibov re-chart classic coordinates, sharpening suits and coats for Spring with studded, metallic edge. Out West, Sølve Sundsbø and George Cortina are California Dreaming, with supernova Parker van Noord modeling a well-lived summer. We also take a tour around the globe with emerging photographer Connor Franta, airdropping the Spring collections in London, Shanghai, and more. Leaning into vacation-mode, we enlist seven talented artists and image-makers to capture that seasonal staple—the swimsuit—in far-flung destinations like Lausanne, Switzerland and Cape Town, South Africa. The portfolio illustrates the season ahead, as well as the artistic expression of the new decade. Dive in! MR V
Models: Mitchell Gorthy, Peter Dupont (IMG)
Fresh Start
HITLIST
spring hitlist Capsule collections, collaborations, and the new-It sneakers illustrate the high-flying creative spark of the Spring/Summer 2020 season Photography Ryan Jenq Text Devin Barrett
Foot Loose Blast from the past. This season, Alessandro Michele reimagines a retro trainer from the Gucci archive, revamping the house’s classic tennis sneaker. Unveiled at the brand’s Cruise 2020 show, amongst the ancient ruins of Rome, the Tennis 1977 Sneaker hints at the past, while leaning toward footwear’s future. Crafted in canvas, and available in seven colorways and prints, the new iteration includes a textured GG-motif and distinct Gucci Tennis 1977 label on the insole and tongue. The simply stylish look points to a life of leisure, and the summer of your dreams.
In This Issue 18 Spring Hitlist 26 Gallery Guy 28 King Kiko 30 VMAN Trends 34 VMAN City Guide 38 VMEN Spring/Summer 2020 50 Overdrive 72 Roman Holiday 86 Team Players 94 California Dreaming 106 Preppy Punk 116 Next Wave 124 VMAN Atlas 136 New Establishment 138 Spring Fever 18
Gucci Tennis 1977 Sneaker ($630, Gucci.com)
HITLIST
Baggage Claim First rolled out on the SS20 runway, the Dior and Rimowa collection for Dior Men explored memory in transit. Attending the fusion of the two LVMH heritage brands was a runway set designed by contemporary artist Daniel Arsham, complete with pink sand and eroding letters spelling out “Dior.” The vivid scenery proved a fitting backdrop for the sunset-colored luggage capsule—namely its beach-friendly aluminum champagne case. Built to last and adapt, the collection also includes the classic Rimowa Cabin Suitcase emblazoned with the Dior Oblique motif, a hard-shell briefcase enhanced with a removable strap, and the Personal Clutch, a compact case tethered by a calfskin-leather cross-body strap. The latter works as the perfect travel companion, or a unique formalwear accessory, as seen on this season’s runway.
Clockwise from bottom left Dior Men Dior and Rimowa Cabin Bag ($4,100), Personal Clutch ($2,440 each), and Hand Case ($3,460), available at Dior Men boutiques.
bare (it) all idiom
14 / 15 bare it all - clear accessories
Definition of bare (it) all: to reveal everything especially : pose nude She was asked to bare (it) all for GCDS WEAR.
SS 2020
gcdswear.com
SHOT BY Giuliano Calza
HITLIST
A Way with Words Taking text obsession to the next level, a graphic iPhone case from Celine’s Spring offerings proclaims, “It Doesn’t Get Better Than This.” It’s just one of several statement pieces co-created by Hedi Slimane and New York artist David Kramer. While Slimane drew from the bootcut, cropped- jacket, three-piece styles of late ’60s rock (see the satin souvenir jacket), Kramer’s artistic inner monologue, often riffing on the idealistic advertising norms of the ’70s, punctuated the collection throughout. While some sentiments—“I Have Nostalgia for Things I Probably Have Never Known” scrawled on a retro tee or “There Is No Irony” on a denim trucker jacket—seem open to interpretation, each piece in the high-vocabulary capsule is sure to send the right message.
Celine by Hedi Slimane shirt, sneakers, bag, wallet, phone case ($360-$1,100, Celine.com)
HITLIST
HITLIST Prop styling Jeremy Parker
Travel Bright As you’re planning your summer getaway, Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli suggests a journey within his expressive imagination. And as a colorful complement, Piccioli teamed up with artist Roger Dean for the ultimate vacation pieces. Known for album artwork for the likes of ‘70s progrock group Yes, Dean translates his signature psychedelic prints to silk shirts, backpacks, and bucket hats.
Roger Dean for Valentino shirt, hat, backpack, bag ($495-$1,945, available at Valentino boutiques)
ART
gallery guy Amid L.A.’s notorious pomp, David Kordansky Gallery is an everexpanding haven of art and substance Photography Torbjørn Rødland Text Samuel Anderson
Los Angeles is the city of stars, but its art scene is comet-like, cycling between obscurity and luminosity depending on when you look. David Kordansky Gallery has been the rare local native to steadily expand within notoriously L.A. art’s volatile radius—unmistakably thanks to its eponymous founder. A former artist himself who pivoted to representation soon after graduating from CalArts, David Kordansky, the gallerist, is tasked to handle both artistic temperaments and temperamental markets. But he’s always considered his artists first: “Working with artists is a serious commitment; I’m deeply connected to my artists—personally, aesthetically, and professionally,” he says. “I don’t know if there’s another way to do it.” Kordansky’s hands-on style is, quite literally, on display. In 2016, for example, Kordansky served as both gallerist and model to Torbjørn Rødland, at the photographer’s request. “At one point he had me falling into a lemon tree...There was a lot of laughter and double takes,” says Kordansky, referring to the finished product’s Art Basel debut. “There’s no better way to understand an artist’s practice than participating in [it].” (Above, the duo recreate that portrait for VMAN.) His approach yields material successes: Having grown into a cavernous Mid-City space in 2014, the gallery unveiled a size-doubling extension in February, timed to Frieze’s second-ever L.A. art fair. For a longtime proponent like Kordansky, these local developments feel like self-fulfilling prophecies. “I feel like I’ve been making the case [for L.A. art] since 2003 in Chinatown,” he says. “The upswing is [due] partly to [art fairs], but it always comes back to the artists.” As much as Kordansky credits artists, they give it back in kind. For New York-based multimedia artist Rashid Johnson, who recently “went Hollywood” with his first directorial project, HBO’s Native Son, Kordansky is a stabilizing force. “The L.A. art scene has definitely gotten much bigger,” says Johnson. “But I’ve always felt a real closeness to it, because of my relationship to David.” Whether or not Johnson has his own Kordansky cameo in mind remains to be seen. 26
Torbjørn Rødland, Buddy System (2019), presented at Frieze Los Angeles 2020
Courtesy of David Kordansky Gallery
David Kordansky outside his eponymous L.A. gallery, 2019
Gaurab Thakali Graphic Designer
Prince Street London SE8 United Kingdom
baracuta.com baracuta.com
king kiko Since teaming up with Asics, Kiko Kostadinov’s workwearinfluenced, London-based label has sprung to new heights Photography Britt Lloyd
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Kiko Kostadinov and his team at the Kiko Kostadinov headquarters in Wood Green, London, 2019
NEWS
NEWS
London Calling Born in Bulgaria to a housekeeper mom and construction worker dad, designer Kiko Kostadinov’s ascension within London fashion was a feat of self-propulsion. But his eponymous brand has since been rewarded for its collaborative ethos. In the wake of launching an ongiong collaboration with Asics, recently shot and modeled by Juergen Teller in an accompanying campaign, he and his close-knit team received double nominations at the 2019 British Fashion Council Fashion Awards: Kostadinov in the Menswear category, and sister co-designers Laura and Deanna Fanning for Womenswear. Here, Kostadinov tells us how he turned a penchant for shopping into a spring-loaded fashion brand. SAMUEL ANDERSON VMAN When did you know you wanted to become a designer? Kiko Kostadinov [I didn’t know] until I was about to finish [high school] and needed to apply for university. I didn’t want to study something
From left to right (this spread) Daiki Fujita, Deanna Fanning, Aitor Martinez, Laura Fanning, Kiko Kostadinov, Paride Calvia, Kai Ninagawa
boring and, I thought, I like shopping, dressing up, and putting outfits together! So I thought, maybe I can try [to capitalize] on that. VMAN Was there a moment you knew you’d “made it” as a designer? KK There are many different [definitions] for “making it.” I’d rather not think in that way; I just want to keep doing what I like doing, and hope that it will [resonate] with people. VMAN How did your ongoing collaboration with Asics come about? KK They approached me with a rough idea after [seeing] my graduate collection. It has been slowly growing in scale ever since. VMAN How would you describe the environment at Kiko headquarters? KK Always busy with multiple projects floating around and overlapping. Stressful in some capacity, but also very inspiring. VMAN What tagline would you give the Kiko Kostadinov brand? KK I think taglines are unnecessary, and can sometimes be pretentious. I prefer to allow the consumer to form their own genuine opinion, so that the brand means something to them personally.
TRENDS
vman trends The Spring/Summer 2020 collections offer a trip through time–from rock-era influence to futuristic sheen Photography Giovanni Corabi Fashion Aryeh Lappin
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Trophy Bags From left to right Lucas wears Givenchy Tamel wears Louis Vuitton Will wears Dior Men
TRENDS
New Nautical
Modern Rock
Crisp Pastels
From top to bottom Lucas wears all clothing Lanvin Shoes and hat Giorgio Armani Will wears Prada Tamel wears Ermenegildo Zegna
From top to bottom Tamel wears all clothing Versace Shoes Giuseppe Zanotti Lucas wears Celine by Hedi Slimane Will wears Berluti
From top to bottom Lucas wears shorts and coats Boss Shirt Issey Miyake Shoes Iceberg Tamel wears Louis Vuitton Will wears all clothing Salvatore Ferragamo Shoes Boss
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TRENDS
Full Transparency
Short Shorts
From top to bottom Tamel wears top Giorgio Armani Pants Emporio Armani Jacket Ermenegildo Zegna Shoes GCDS Will wears jacket and pants Issey Miyake Top Missoni Shoes Boss Lucas wears MSGM
From top to bottom Lucas wears Dior Men Will wears Louis Vuitton Tamel wears all clothing Helmut Lang Shoes Dior Men
From top to bottom Will wears all clothing GCDS Shoes Dsquared2 Tamel wears Dior Men Lucas wears Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello
Makeup Steven Canavan (L’Atelier Management) using Dior Beauty Hair Fernando Torrent (L’Atelier Management) using R+Co Models Will Wadhams (The Society), Tamel Lee (The Society), Lucas Satherley (IMG) Location Socceroof
Maxi Prints
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TRENDS
Now Playing From top to bottom Will wears GCDS Lucas wears Dsquared2 Tamel wears top Etro Pants Issey Miyake
vman city guide TRAVEL
Aqaba, Jordan
Clockwise from left: Amit Luzon (right) and Eyal Eliyahu (left), ADISH co-founders; Photography Michal Chelbin (1-3) Courtesy Amit Luzon
AMIT LUZON, DESIGNER Two and a half years ago, my partner and I founded our brand, ADISH, in Tel Aviv, Israel. Our mission was to [represent] all the people of the region—including Palestinians. We wanted to change the status quo of [Israelis and Palestinians] ignoring one another, which we don’t think is any way to live. Our [imagery] [reflects this dialogue], too. We shot our Fall/Winter lookbook in an Israeli village known for Bedouin weaving, [a tradition popular in both Israel and Palestine]. For the Spring/Summer 2020 lookbook, we went to Aqaba, a coastal town in Jordan that is famous for its beautiful Red Sea beaches, and also as an in-between for Israel, Egypt and Saudi Arabia. You might see a Western-looking hotel, or a Bedouin-style tent. We wanted to capture how people there live—this is always really important for us when we are shooting. The street-casting process was interactive and organic: We said, “We are a fashion brand from Israel and Palestine,” and asked if they were willing to [participate]. Everybody’s a little nervous at first, but the Jordanians we met were all really nice, and great with the camera. One even invited us to shoot inside his house. We also met this kid offering horseback rides [on the beach]. He was a rockstar! When he saw our camera, he was like, “Let me show you something...” Then it got crazy!
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TRAVEL
Kobe, Japan
Clockwise from top: Dan Carter in Sannomiya, Kobe, Japan; Dan Carter (photo: Alan Gelati); Izumi sushi; Carter at a cooking lesson, 2019
DAN CARTER, ATHLETE Kobe has plenty of traditional Japanese restaurants, but I still like eggs, pancakes, and a good coffee [for breakfast]. You’ll find an American-style breakfast at Eggs ’n Things in the Harborland district. For something more authentic, you of course need to try Kobe beef. Aragawa, a third-generation, Michelin-starred restaurant, and Kobe Grill, located on the Sheraton Hotel’s 52nd floor, have some of the best I’ve ever tasted. For a scenic workout, I go out to Awaji Island. The coastline is great for beach runs, or for pulling up a mat for some oceanside yoga or even meditation. Just over the hill is Arima, which has some of Japan’s best onsens, or natural hot springs. These are a great way to relax and recover from everyday stresses. Walking the streets of the Sannomiya district, you will find all the top international [brands]. I go there to check out Louis Vuitton’s latest collections or Rimowa’s suitcase collaborations, or to browse the amazing local labels at lesser-known shops. Afterwards I’ll go to Izumi, a small sushi spot nearby. I’ve taken some Japanese cooking lessons, and the bar here is a good place to compare notes!
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Florence, Italy GRO CURTIS, CONTRIBUTING FASHION DIRECTOR I love Gucci Osteria for several reasons: It has an amazing location, on Piazza della Signoria, and the menu is designed by famous chef Massimo Bottura. My absolute favorite dish is “Sun Rice,” which is risotto with tomatoes and red prawns. L’angolo Del Mare is a tiny, hidden gem with only 13 tables. They have the best fresh fish, and it’s on the outskirts of the city, which I love. Definitely try the strawberry-champagne tiramisu! If you are seeing Florence for the first time, it’s mandatory that you visit Michelangelo’s David at Galleria dell’Accademia. But if you are into contemporary art, then your must-see destination is Palazzo Strozzi. From now until July, they’re exhibiting Argentinian artist Tomás Saraceno, who creates jaw-dropping floating sculptures. You cannot visit Florence without paying homage to Santa Maria Novella in Via della Scala. I love buying their soaps, and store them in my closet or pack them in my suitcase when I travel. Santa Maria Novella is one of the oldest pharmacies in the world, founded around 1221 by Dominican friars, but these soaps leave my clothes smelling fresh! 36
Clockwise from top: Tomás Saraceno 325 W Stay Green/Flying Garden/Air-Port-City, 2007-2009 © Photography by Studio Tomás Saraceno 2007; Gucci Osteria, courtesy Gucci; Gro Curtis Photography Sølve Sundsbø; Apothecary © Santa Maria Novella
TRAVEL
TRAVEL
Bangalore, India
Photography Reuben Selby, Bangalore, India, 2018
REUBEN SELBY, ENTREPRENEUR I run a tech-driven modeling agency, but before starting my company, I was a photographer. One job took me from Bangkok to Bangalore, India. In Bangalore, we stayed in a hotel with incredible views of the city. I woke up, jet-lagged, at 5 a.m., and saw what looked like thousands of horses and trainers rounding this course in the distance—quite a sight at the crack of dawn. My friend and I spent the morning planning how we’d get in. We found [the tag] on Instagram, and started messaging people. We just reached out to all these young [horseback riders], until one said he’d let us in. [It turned out to be] a private club called Bangalore Turf Club. I didn’t have much context, but it was clear that riding culture was really tied into the city’s cultural fabric, and that there was a hierarchy to it. In this society, being a horse-rider or jockey was very much celebrated. Each of these young guys had a horse and a trainer who looked after it. Whereas in England, it has a totally different [connotation]. [Most] teenagers, particularly males, wouldn’t be caught dead riding a horse. As a photographer, it’s all about finding [experiences like this]— discovering different ways of telling the same story. You can be in Bangalore watching boys ride horses, or in Bangkok watching them practice Muay Thai, or in the U.K. watching football. They are similar stories, but each has its own resonance.
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There’s no competition: Each a distinct mix of talent and style, these eight heavyweights have reimagined the playing field
vmen spring / summer 2020 VMEN
London Photography Ian Kenneth Bird Fashion Reuben Esser
VMEN
Matty wears all clothing and accessories Celine by Hedi Slimane Shoes, necklace, socks his own
Matty Healy, Musician Over the last half-decade, The 1975’s Matty Healy became ubiquitous, as did his band’s percussive, dancey sound. With his Energizer-Bunny stage presence and semi-nonsensical lyrics (“Mama she says roly poly/Papa he says holy moly/Everybody wants a chocolate”), no one embodied feel-good pop-rock like Healy. But then, in August, the band took a spiked club to that reputation. “I wanted everything [about it] to be uncomfortable,” says Healy of the video for screamo single “People,” the first release off forthcoming album Notes on a Conditional Form. “It was a true expression; we wrote the song in a night [when] we were just feeling especially engaged and angry.” While the aesthetic extremes of “People” may have been a one-off—the oil-slick Marilyn Manson hairdo Healy rocked was, in fact, a wig— its messaging reflected the confrontational posture that Healy has assumed within his art and without. In addition to lyrical declarations like, “Wake up, it’s Monday morning and we’ve only got a thousand of them left,” the singer has contributed to the public discourse. In the last year, he’s nudged a few fellow musicians toward the purposeful-pop bandwagon, once calling out Imagine Dragons’s religious frontman to reckon with his church’s anti-LGBTQ stance. “I am not any of the ‘ists’...I am not a fascist, I am not a racist, I am not a misogynist, or any of those things... Because of that, I don’t live my life in fear [of being] cancelled or misrepresented. So I am going to say how I feel,” says Healy. He has a lot to say, judging by the length and breadth of Notes. Though a stylistic departure, the 22-track album dropping in April is a companion piece to the 2018 LP A Brief Inquiry into Online Relationships. “We said, ‘Let’s just do two albums; we have [enough] ideas for it,’” Healy recalls. “Cultural change happens so quickly now that we couldn’t imagine touring just one album for the next two years.” (The band’s 2020 leg kicks off April 27.) Though Healy himself may be in the business of truth-telling, his TV-watching habits are unabashedly escapist. “I am fucking obsessed with [British reality show] Love Island,” he professes. “There’s so much drama with so little consequence; it’s like play fighting. I really like that.” It seems the singer’s soft spot for pop remains intact after all. SAMUEL ANDERSON 39
VMEN
Vegyn wears shirt Dsquared2 Top (worn under) and necklace his own
Vegyn, Musician “It was [that feeling] when your eyes widen, and you’re thankful that you’re alive,” says Vegyn, otherwise known as Joe Thornalley, when prompted to recall the November release of his debut album, Only Diamonds Cut Diamonds. “I was feeling very inspired. All of the songs kind of started within the space of feeding the dream. I was working [on a] completely nocturnal [schedule], making five or six tracks every day.” His music transports listeners to a place unknown. It’s futuristic, but familiar, he explains: “It’s within the realm of electronica— all made on the computer.” But he hesitates to categorize the sound as any singular genre, focusing on “emotional ambiance” rather than “commercial viability.” The sixteen-song compilation is a product of ignoring barriers and letting strangeness shine in. “That freedom was very inspiring to me,” he continues. “I have been a fearful person, creating certain barriers for [myself] all the time. So [the album] is just about constantly [facing] the things that make us feel uncomfortable. Because that’s the only way to get [over your fears].” Vegyn’s musical moniker is inspired by the commitment required of veganism. Although to be clear, he isn’t a practicing vegan himself. “People immediately have an opinion on it,” he says of aligning himself with the plant-based lifestyle. As for the Y? “There’s an element of google-ability,” he laughs. (In fairness, he used to be a vegetarian.) What’s clear is that Vegyn’s creative practice comes naturally: his father was a musician and his mom was a designer. As a young adult, the singer cut his teeth in the London club scene—namely the now defunct Plastic People, where he did more than party. “I kept USBs of my music on me, so whenever I met people I could share my portfolio,” he recalls. And while his album release may have been a public unveiling, his music had already been heard by millions. After chance encounters with several musical game-changers, Vegyn went on to produce for the likes of Frank Ocean, James Blake, and Travis Scott. Today he remains a key player in the Ocean family, as a host on Ocean’s Blonded Radio—an ongoing, free-form platform that is, like much of Ocean’s oeuvre, mysterious. But that suits Vegyn just fine. “It’s surprise radio!” he says. “You never know what you’re going to get.” DEVIN BARRETT 40
VMEN
Dean wears jacket and pants Prada Shirt Valentino Top (worn under) Ron Dorff Necklace his own
Dean-Charles Chapman, Actor Dean-Charles Chapman started acting when most kids start pre-K. Signed to an agency at age four, he’s been working for 18 of his altogether 22 years, alternating between TV, theater, and film. Last year, he crossed a professional threshold that precious few actors do, no matter their experience level: starring in an awards-season heavyweight, as Lance Corporal Blake in Sam Mendes’s 1917. Both Chapman and costar George MacKay spend the World War I epic largely front-and-center, playing two British foot-soldiers who must traverse Northern France’s “no-man’s-land.” While the film, with its whopping 10 Oscar nods, was inarguably his biggest yet, it wasn’t Chapman’s first big break. He previously played the title role in Billy Elliot on London’s West End, and Prince Tommen Baratheon for three seasons of HBO’s Game of Thrones. Along the way, he’s learned not to judge a role by its clout. “As long as I’m happy playing the character and happy with the people I’m with [on set], then I’m happy,” he says over the phone from Los Angeles, his London accent thick and welcoming. “It doesn’t really matter how big or small a role is, or even how successful the [project] becomes.” 1917, filmed in various locations like Surrey, England and Govan, Scotland, is a technical masterpiece: Lengthy shots and intricately choreographed scenes of Chapman and MacKay give the appearance of one continuous take captured in real time. Despite his character’s temporal specificity, Chapman says that, over the course of the six-month rehearsal, he found common ground with Blake, a young English soldier who finds himself with a big job—sounding the alarm on an imminent German ambush. “[He] came closer to me and then I came closer to [him],” he says. “The two sort of met in the middle.” Given Chapman’s snowballing career, one naturally wonders where he’ll be seen next. “I’m a bit obsessed with Westerns at the moment,” he says. But like a true cowboy, Chapman is just as happy being a rolling stone. “I’d like to maybe do a Western...[but] that’s what I love about the job: being blind to what’s around the corner, and taking it day-by-day. Just living to see what happens.” MATHIAS ROSENZWEIG 41
VMEN
Archie wears coat and pants Tod’s Shirt MSGM
Archie Madekwe, Actor In the Apple+ series See, humans have lost their sight. Forced to find new means of survival sans vision, mankind looks very different. But like any good sci-fi, the show raises questions about how it might mirror our present reality. For star Archie Madekwe, the links between the show’s dystopian premise and real life were clear. “I had such a visceral sense of what this world was—more so than with any other script,”Madekwe says. “[It got me thinking] about whether the same issues [we have now] would come up if humans were given the opportunity to start over afresh.” Darkness is a throughline of the 24-year-old’s 2019 credits, which range from playing a French revolutionary in the BBC’s recent Les Misérables revival to a doomed tourist in Ari Aster’s Midsommar. But the South London native had arguably proven his mettle before these, dropping out of his performing arts high school to act on stage. “There’s nothing that teaches you about [acting] other than just doing it,” he says. “There’s no situation that can turn up at school…where you’re potentially naked with one other person as hundreds of people are staring at you, while you are trying to create something intimate and real. Along the way, Madekwe clocked institutional barriers to acting in the U.K. “Especially as a person of color, it is difficult to get into certain rooms,” he says. “[The schools are] almost [seen as] this stamp of approval on your head, [signifying] that you are a serious actor and you should be taken seriously. It’s very selective and elitist, and very expensive.” Clearly Madekwe is an exception to the rule, having found his way to a number of prestigious sets without a fancy drama degree. Despite returning to complex sci-fi storytelling this year with Voyagers, helmed by Neil Burger of the Divergent franchise, Madekwe believes you don’t need a high production value to prove your craft: To those hoping to get a foot in the industry’s door, he recommends equal opportunity platforms like Instagram and YouTube. Judging by Madekwe’s flourishing career, and his attitude of gratitude, the struggle is worth the reward: “[As actors], we’re so lucky to do the job that we do. Because we get to learn something new every day.” MR 42
VMEN
Grooming Michael Harding (D + V Management) Stylist assistant Olivia Beharrell Location First Option Location Studio
Earl wears all clothing Gucci Jewelry his own
Earl Cave, Actor As Daniel, the surly teen protagonist in 2019’s Days of the Bagnold Summer, actor Earl Cave was perfectly convincing. With his wolf-puppy eyes and bladed shag, not to mention a well-documented interest in fashion off-screen, Cave seemed just the sort to reject a parent’s dressing tips, as Daniel does at one point in the coming-of-age indie. But Cave suggests he isn’t so anti IRL: “I was wearing a new pair of cowboy boots, and my dad was like, ‘Those are weird,’” Cave says, relaying a recent exchange with his dad, Bad Seeds founder Nick Cave. “I said ‘Aw, really?’ But the more I wore them, the more I [agreed].” The surprise there may not be Cave’s heeding an elder’s advice, but that his Aussie-punk dad would voice a decidedly un-punk aversion to impractical footwear. It may also explain how Cave, despite his unusual pedigree, identifies with the relatable rebel-types he plays. “Rebelling against what you are told is such an important step in being a teenager,” says Cave. “I was a bit of a nuisance [to my parents], but that’s how you form your opinions.” Cave will play another troublemaker in Dominus, about youth-led resistance in Ancient Rome. “It’s a departure [from previous roles] in that it’s [so] historical, but I’m still playing a teen who’s coming to terms,” says Cave, 20 this year. “Even kids in 62 B.C. had things to work out.” The U.K.-born Cave was closer to home in The True History of the Kelly Gang. The period film retells the lore of Aussie criminal Ned Kelly through a lens of modern punk ideals, with director Justin Kurzel charging Earl and his Kelly Gang co-stars to form an impromptu band in preproduction. Intentional or not, Kurzel’s methods let Earl channel his rocker father (who once used the stage name “Nick Cave: Man or Myth,” a reference to the 1968 biography Ned Kelly: Man or Myth). Cave, the band’s bassist, upheld the Bad Seeds’ anti-establishment sensibility in his lyrical contributions: “I wrote about rebelling against the monarchy, and Australia’s [history] as a penal colony,” recalls Cave. “I don’t hate the Queen, I just like the music that came out of the anti-monarchy movement.” Whether that makes Cave a bad seed or a force for good is for the audience to decide. SA 43
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New York Photography Emmanuel Monsalve Fashion Aryeh Lappin
Orrin wears jacket and shorts Louis Vuitton Necklace his own
Orrin, Musician Orrin uses the collective “we” when discussing his indie-rap persona. “The name is Orrin,” he says. “We are a collective conscious and cyborg from the year 2050.” The collective pronoun befits Orrin’s multi-layered sound: With his cacophony of influences, ranging from early hip-hop to sci-fi movies to New York City stoop culture, the solo artist’s rap flow is multifaceted in every sense. Though inarguably of-the-moment, Orrin’s preoccupation with futurism and the apocalypse telegraphs a nostalgia for simpler times past. He suggests as much when he attests that, despite his woozy synths and slick, robotic visuals, “The vibrancy of human contact is always a source of inspiration.” Even so, it frames human connection as constantly imperiled—as did Tyler, the Creator’s rap crew Odd Future, originally known as “Odd Future Wolf Gang Kill Them All,” whom Orrin calls an inspiration. “Humans are writing their destruction with tools such as disease, famine, environmental disaster, and technological singularity,” adds the Queens-based rapper. Orrin’s brand of anarchism, however, includes a few more Jetsons-style bells and whistles: The cover of his 2019 self-titled album, which he and producer Warren Wolfe began working on in 2015, features a glowing, Terminator-adjacent self-portrait. The universe of Orrin is thus a kind of retro-future—one that looks to the past while anticipating our jeopardized future. “It’s an 11-track coming-of-age story,” he says of Orrin. “The project reflected the growth and change that happened during this [five-year] period. It’s [also] a digital commentary on humanity’s reliance on technology, using pirated software and artificial synths to replace live instrumentation.” Also included in Orrin’s forward-thinking vision: a line of apocalyptic-chic apparel and lifestyle merch, complete with “deconstructed pants” and mouse pads. (The line launched on Orrin’s website, ironically listed as “Realorrin.com,” this February). His next musical installment will be MUTANT, which Orrin describes as a prequel to his 2019 debut, explaining “the true origin of the [titular] mechanized cyborg.” That drop is slated for early summer 2020—if the planet lasts that long, that is. JULIA GRAY 44
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Tyshawn wears jumpsuit Salvatore Ferragamo Necklace Cartier Shirt and hat his own
Grooming Takanori Shimura Photo assistant Charles Ludeke
Tyshawn Jones, Skater “I am not a skater...I am me,” Tyshawn Jones says over the phone. He’s calling in from sunny Los Angeles, where he’s killing time, before moving to a newly purchased home in New York. “I am from [the] skateboarding [community], but I wouldn’t [label] myself as just a skateboarder. Skateboarding is [just] the foundation,” he continues. The Bronx native’s skating roots run deep: He first made waves at 14, after appearing in skate videographer William Strobeck’s Supreme film Cherry, followed by 2018’s Blessed. The latter performance earned Jones Thrasher’s coveted “Skater of the Year” award. However, he shrugs off the accolades: “I don’t really watch myself [on video]. I just watched it once, and that’s it,” Jones insists. “It’s not strategic. I am just doing me. If people fuck with it, they fuck with it. If not...I like it.” But don’t mistake his nonchalance for passivity. Instead of the slacker energy often associated with street skate culture, Jones exudes the entrepreneurial spirit of New York. It’s here that he’s continuing to lay down roots, opening up a Caribbean-American restaurant, Taste So Good, in the Bronx in 2018. “I just wanted something of my own,” he says. “The sponsored stuff is cool, but that’s not my thing: I am just like an employee in a sense. I’d rather have my own thing, and I thought it would be cool to give back to the community and start something dope.” The same train of thought prompted Jones’s other business venture: Hardie’s Hardware, an apparel brand that sells unique bolts for skate decks. “I want to see a bunch of people wearing it everywhere. I want it to be a big brand,” he says, noting a desire to become a brand himself, rather than work for someone else’s. “Why not try to be like Supreme or Off-White?” he asks. “You only get one chance.” Jones speaks confidently and passionately, summing up his ambitions as an endless pursuit of more. Eschewing specifics, he forecasts, “fly shit only...It’s not proper English, but I’m an everything-doer. Skateboarding was...what got me everywhere [I am today], but I think I am more than that these days. New lanes, period.” DB 45
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Madrid Photography Álvaro Beamud Cortés Fashion Brais Vilasó
Jorge López, Actor The first season of Spanish Netflix show Elite was a new pinnacle in streaming, scoring 20 million hits in four weeks according to a company-authored memo. Besides ratings, the memo also provided early proof of the Netlfix-star phenomenon—that is, young unknowns acquiring global, virtually overnight fame: Stats showed its stars’ Instagram followings had all soared north of a million that month. Chilean actor Jorge López might have been among that case study, were it not for his pesky intuition. “I was [still on another TV show] when I saw the announcement for [Elite]—I really wanted to screen-test for it, but felt I had to properly close that chapter before starting something new,” he says. Luckily, the universe would reward López for his patience. “When my agent surprised me with the script for Elite Season 2, I knew that Valerio was the role for me.” López, now Madrid-based, has followed his nose since leaving his winemaking hometown at 17—initially without mom and dad’s blessing. “I was chasing my dream, which my parents saw as an act of rebellion,” says López, who, after fits and starts, would earn a cult following on the Disney soap, Soy Luna. “That [experience] was four years of a beastly work and sacrifice, which I’m still very proud of.” He continues to capitalize on his rebellious streak via the guilty pleasurability of Elite. The show’s unspared PG-13 content, like Valerio and his half-sister’s incest-lite subplot, only fuels thirst. Besides López’s six-million-plus follower count, his growing stateside presence offers further evidence of the actor’s appeal. At Art Basel Miami last year, López served as a Desigual ambassador, generating content for the brand’s “Love Different” initiative. One photo-opp saw López at the hot-pink threshold of an inflatable, yonic funhouse—suggesting the 28-year-old may share Valerio’s taste for testing taboos. His apparent go-with-the-flow attitude also informs López’s self-care routine. “Bikram yoga helps me connect with myself; I find it offers many physical and psychological benefits,” he says. Having shot Elite Season 3, dropping in March, López’s next spiritual pit stop may be the yogi capital of the West: “For me, [moving to Los Angeles] would be a next-level challenge,” he tells us. “But it’s not something I obsess over. I am super comfortable in Madrid.” Wherever his yoga mat takes him, López is sure to keep stretching limits. SA 46
Groomer Luciano Chiarello (Atomo Management) Production Elena Sophia Ivaldi (Interlude Project) Digital technician Amets Iriondo Photo assistants Simone Triacca Stylist assistant Claudia Perez
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Opposite page Jorge wears shirt Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello Shorts Balmain
This page Pants Les Hommes Top stylist’s own
SPRING/SUMMER
VMAN 43 Jump in the driver’s seat! Fashion is in high gear
Jacob wears jacket, top, pants Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello Jewelry (throughout) his own
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Jacob Elordi’s gripping turn as Nate in HBO’s Euphoria sent his career into high gear, in addition to shocking and hooking viewers with its take-no-prisoners masculinity. Here, the real Elordi—a thoughtful Aussie with a penchant for fellow good-guy actors—jumps into the driver’s seat Photography Chris Colls Fashion Nicola Formichetti
overdrive
Top Balenciaga
“I’m obsessed with actors in general...More and more so as I get older, especially as I meet them. Seeing them work just blows my mind.” –Jacob Elordi
Jumpsuit, coat, shoes Rick Owens Top MSGM Helmet stylist’s own
Life in the Fast Lane Brisbane-born actor Jacob Elordi did not so much catapult into the public’s consciousness as he did saunter into it. With his slow-mo entrance in 2018’s The Kissing Booth on Netflix, which emphasized his ripped build and grinning insouciance, Elordi’s overnight-heartthrob status seemed inevitable. The rest might have been YA history, were it not for the actor’s next big break: playing the closeted, sociopathic Nate on HBO’s Euphoria. Though technically young-adult-driven, the Sam Levinson drama, dubbed the “most shocking teen show ever” by The Guardian, was purpose-built to break taboos and shift paradigms. In no small part, the show’s shock factor stemmed from Elordi’s Nate, which laid waste to the hunky purity the actor embodied in his rom-com debut. All id and muscle, Nate courses with hardly-contained rage. “You want my advice?” he snarls to his footballer friends in Episode 1. “You fuck her like the whore she is.” His wrath telegraphs a primordial yet still-relevant brand of masculinity: “Keep your head down,” he warns a trans student whom he’s attempting to blackmail. “Keep your mouth shut. Don’t try to ruin my life, and I won’t have to ruin yours.” Even for an experienced actor, playing a guy like Nate would be intimidating. For a relative unknown, to take on such a role is risky, if not hubristic. But not to Elordi. “Pretty quickly after meeting Sam, I had an idea that it was something I was going to enjoy tremendously,” he says. “Obviously you never know how something is going to be received in the wider world, but I knew that I was going to have a good time making it.” Still, the character of Nate is daunting by nature. One climactic scene offered particularly good PTSD fodder: the physical fight between Nate and his father (Eric Dane). “The breakdown scene came toward the end of [shooting]. So I guess I had been building up to that, and I knew there was that climax coming for the character,” Elordi says, calling in from a New Orleans-based film set. In said tussle, Nate flip-flops between aggressor and terrified child, eventually using his own head to beat himself half-unconscious. In watching the disturbing sequence, the viewer flip-flops, too: between hating Nate, fearing him, and pitying him, but never wavering in the thrill of watching a young actor do something great. “That scene was definitely a lot,” Elordi continues. “But then, the whole thing was [a lot]; I hadn’t worked that much. I’d thought a lot about being an actor, but I never imagined that I’d be doing a big TV show at this stage in my career.” Elordi was on the verge of audition burnout when he heard about Euphoria—first through an L.A. peer who was up for a role. “I helped a friend [make] a tape for it,” he recalls. “Then a few weeks later, I got the brief myself. It was such a standard-procedure kind of thing: I went in for the casting, then went back in for it, and again, and again…The caliber of writing was spectacular from the get-go.” Critics agreed, largely extolling the show’s genre-pushing storylines, inclusive cast, and stellar acting. Besides its substantive and aesthetic achievements (“Euphoria threw a glitter bomb at its audience,” The New York Times summarized), Euphoria opened up the current golden age of TV to the YA genre—maneuvering a dizzying tightrope between tenderness and shock. Unlike much prestige TV, it relied on mostly newcomers to play its cadre of high schoolers. (The exception being Zendaya, who stars as Rue.) “It’s very rare to get a script... at HBO where they tell you they don’t need any names, just whoever is best to make this story,” casting director Jessica Kelly pointed out to IndieWire. Thus Elordi is not wrong in calling himself “really, really lucky” to have landed his role. Another stroke of luck: having muscled through one of the most talked-about first seasons of 2019, and leaving fans scrambling for more with its finale, Euphoria will return later this year for another round of can’t-miss histrionics. He might be objectively a newcomer, but Elordi’s tour de force performance as Nate involved serious-actor methodology: On set, he would stay in character by keeping a journal as Nate. “It was about keeping tabs on my thoughts, as a character,” he explains. (Those entries, along with snapshots Elordi, an avid photographer, took on set, were later extracted and published as a zine by HBO.) Elordi also says he studies his actor role models the way other 22-year-olds might study math or English Lit. “I’m obsessed with actors in general,” he says. “More and more so as I get older, especially as I meet them. Seeing them work just blows my mind.” Chief among Elordi’s objects of fascination is another Australian leading man, the late Heath Ledger: Before moving to L.A. with camera in-tow, Elordi discovered the photos Ledger took throughout his early years in Hollywood. Before that, Elordi’s actor-worship had guided his movie diet. “I was particularly influenced by Michael Fassbender and Ryan Gosling,” he says. “As I watched more movies, it was Marlon Brando and James Dean. After that, it was Montgomery Clift…I think all young men who want to act [have] that period of falling in love with [those actors]...I’m also a huge fan of James Franco as an artist. I have such a major interest in almost everyone working in the field, even down to someone like Nicolas Cage…I find that [so many actors] are doing something interesting, most of the time.” Elordi is poised to make a career of doing something interesting, all of the time. He’s on set in New Orleans doing just that: the project is an adaptation of the 1957 Patricia Highsmith novel Deep Water, about an open marriage between a dysfunctional, possibly murderous couple (Ben Affleck, Ana de Armas). The film, which Elordi describes as “a marriage-drama-cum-thriller kind of thing,” promises a compelling mix of new blood and industry clout: In addition to a screenplay by Euphoria’s Levinson, the adaptation is directed by thriller master Adrian Lyne (Fatal Attraction, Lolita). “It is really cool,” Elordi says. “Every day I wake up incredibly excited. [Lyne] is a legend, and I love Patricia Highsmith; she is such an interesting woman, and had the most unusual life.” Whether immersing himself in the chilling mind of Highsmith or character-journaling for the second season of Euphoria, soon to be in production, Elordi seems poised to be the handsome face of Neo-noir. Still, the actor doesn’t plan on sticking to any one genre for too long. “I’m not actually someone who makes a lot of plans,” he shrugs. “One thing I’d like to do is to make more movies, because I enjoy the fact that they allow [for] these singular experiences: You can play a character for a period of time. More than anything else, I’d love to do plays. That’s sort of my favorite thing in the whole world. I’m trying to build a space over the next two years where I’m in a position to be able to drop [everything] and do a play.” For somebody who cares so much about the work, making it as an actor has to feel euphoric. PHILLIPA SNOW
Jumpsuit, coat, shoes Rick Owens Top MSGM
“The breakdown scene came toward the end of [shooting]. So I guess I had been building up to that, and I knew there was that climax coming for the character...That scene was definitely a lot. But then, the whole thing was [a lot]; I hadn’t worked that much. I’d thought a lot about being an actor, but I never imagined that I’d be doing a big TV show at this stage in my career.” –Jacob Elordi
Jacket (worn throughout) Schott NYC
From left Top, pants, shoes Bottega Veneta Top MSGM Necklaces Chrome Hearts
Jacket and pants Boss Helmet stylist’s own
On hair Fekkai Full Blown Volume Dry Texturizing Mist
Top and pants Balenciaga
Jacket Baracuta Watch Omega On face Lab Series Day Rescue Defense Lotion Broad Spectrum SPF 35
“More than anything else, I’d love to do plays. That’s sort of my favorite thing in the whole world. I’m trying to build a space over the next two years where I’m in a position to be able to drop [everything] and do a play.” –Jacob Elordi
Jacket Prada Top MSGM Pants Guess Watch Bulgari
Makeup Meagan Schmitz Hair Teddy Charles (The Wall Group) Set design Evan Jourden Executive Producer Benjamin Bonnet (Westy Productions) Production manager Zoe Talay (Westy Productions) Digital technician Jeanine Robinson Photo assistant Daniil Zaikin Stylist assistant Marta Del Rio, Anna Reinherz Hair assistant Meagan Schmitz Production assistants Greg Bonnet, Ziad Georges, Paris Potter Location Willow Springs International Raceway
Top Tom Ford Jacket Schott NYC Sunglasses Persol Watch Bulgari
WE VOTE FOR TOMORROW
THINK BIG
roman holiday Actor Lorenzo Zurzolo, star of Netflix’s Baby, brings the drama to the Irish countryside, where historical grandeur mingles with the contemporary romance of the Spring collections. Visit VMAN.com for an exclusive interview with the Rome-born supernova Photography Brett Lloyd Fashion Tom Guinness
Lorenzo wears coat Ermenegildo Zegna Shirt Balenciaga Pants and shoes Hermès 72
Shirt, pants, bag Dior Men Turtleneck stylist’s own
Jacket (worn under) Baracuta Hat Lock & Co. Hatters Coat and turtleneck stylist’s own
“My childhood was very happy. I grew up in a cozy flat right in the center of Rome. I have always loved meeting new people, and in Rome, it’s easy to do that. By 14, I was riding motorcycles and going to afternoon clubs. But I was careful not to get ahead of myself.” –Lorenzo Zurzolo
Shirt Emporio Armani Pants Hermès Turtleneck and boots stylist’s own
Coat Bottega Veneta Top Balenciaga Pants stylist’s own Shoes Louis Vuitton Brooch Stephen Einhorn Hat Lock & Co. Hatters Socks (throughout) Dior Men
This spread Shirt Turnbull & Asser Vest Salvatore Ferragamo Pants, belt, tie stylist’s own Gloves Raf Simons On brows NARS Brow Gel
Jacket, shirt, vest, tie Gucci Pants Balenciaga Boots Holland & Holland Brooch, kerchief, belt, hat stylist’s own
“I grew up on sets, and now I can’t imagine life without [acting]. When I was younger, my idol was Roberto Benigni; I love La Vita è Bella. I first saw it with my mom when I was the same age as the child in the film. I wish I could’ve played him!” –Lorenzo Zurzolo
Jacket Givenchy Shirt Turnbull & Asser Pants Hermès Boots and tie stylist’s own
Cape Hermès Cape (worn under) and shoes Holland & Holland Shirt Boss Pants Balenciaga
“I’m inspired by young talents who make beautiful projects that are open to interpretation: Xavier Dolan, Zendaya, and Timothée Chalamet, for example. But I think the best inspirations are the characters one meets every day.” –Lorenzo Zurzolo
Top, shirt (worn under), bolo tie Prada Scarf Holland & Holland Pants Hermès Ribbons stylist’s own
Jacket Balenciaga Top Ralph Lauren Cardigan stylist’s own Pants and cumberbund Boss Shoes Louis Vuitton
Hair Jonathan De Francesco (LGA Management) Creative director Simon B Mørch Prop stylist Miguel Bento Production Heron White (Allocations) Casting director Piotr Chamier Photo assistant Ronan McCall Lighting assistant Colm Keating Stylist assistants Mei Ling Cooper Fulford, Lily Guinness Production assistant Adam Hutchinson Location Knockmaroon House, Dublin
From left to right Jordy wears Louis Vuitton
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Dallas wears Comme des GarÇons Homme Plus
Parker wears Raf Simons
Dylan wears Gucci
Cameron wears Versace
Joaquim wears Rick Owens
team players Four distinct fashion tribes illustrate the current menswear landscape, ranging from experimental to joyously relaxed Photography Marcus Ohlsson Fashion Gro Curtis
eccentricity
From left to right Alessio wears Burberry Chad wears all clothing and shoes Dsquared2 Watch Louis Vuitton Josh wears Les Hommes Jacques wears MSGM Davidson wears Dior Men JoĂŁo wears Prada Mason wears all clothing and shoes GCDS Watch Tudor TJ wears Emporio Armani
good sports
From left to right Hayden wears Balenciaga Eliseu wears Celine by Hedi Slimane Willow wears Alexander McQueen Simon wears Berluti Liam wears all clothing Boss Shoes Giuseppe Zanotti Morocco wears all clothing and shoes Tom Ford Jewelry his own Jack wears Givenchy David wears all clothing and shoes Bottega Veneta Jewelry his own
razor sharp
Makeup Morgane Martini (The Wall Group) Hair Tamas Tuzes (L’Atelier NYC) Models Jordy (DNA), Dallas Sessoms (NEXT), Parker Brown (NEXT), Dylan Christensen (NEXT), Cameron Schuessler (SOUL), Joaquim (DNA), Alessio Pozzi (NEXT), Chad White (SOUL), Josh McGregor (Ford), Jacques Pougnet (Ford), Davidson Obennebo (Willhelmina), João Knorr (NEXT), Mason McKenrick (NEXT), TJ Moore (Ford), Hayden Mullikin (Ford), Eliseu Zimmer (IMG), Willow Barrett (DNA), Simon S (NEXT), Liam Little (DNA), Morocco B (DNA), Jack McQueen (SOUL), David Yang (Heroes), Hamid Onifade (DNA), Ben Hill (DNA), Alex Lundqvist (IMG), Ollie Edwards (VNY), Armando Cabral (Wilhelmina), Brad Kroenig (Ford), RJ King (IMG) Digital technican Alonzo Maciel Photo assistant Ross Singer, Josh Mathews Makeup assistant Shoko Sawatari Hair assistant Karla Serrano, D’Angelo Alston Production Charles McDermott Movement director Andre Minkus Location Root NYC
From left to right Hamid wears all clothing Ralph Lauren Shoes Giuseppe Zanotti Watch TIffany & Co. Ben wears all clothing and shoes Fendi Necklace Tiffany & Co. Alex wears all clothing and shoes Ermenegildo Zegna Watch Omega Ring Tiffany & Co. Ollie wears all clothing Giorgio Armani Shoes Santoni Armando wears all clothing Coach Shoes Ralph Lauren Brad wears Salvatore Ferragamo RJ wears all clothing Missoni Shoes Giorgio Armani Bracelet Tiffany & Co. Watch Tag Heuer
new classic
california Through the lens of an endless summer, Parker van Noord eases into retro-tinged classics and a relaxed elegance Photography Sølve Sundsbø Fashion George Cortina
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Parker wears shirt Hermès Shorts Paul Stuart On face and body Hermès Eau de Narcisse Bleu Moisturizing Face and Body Balm
Shirt Gucci Swimsuit Ron Dorff On face Le Labo Face Bronzer
Robe Anderson & Sheppard Sunglasses Jacques Marie Mage
Pants Celine by Hedi Slimane
Pants Prada
Swimsuit Ron Dorff
Top Celine by Hedi Slimane On skin Celine by Hedi Slimane Eau de Californie Eau de Parfum
Shirt Emporio Armani Pants Gucci Belt Artemas Quibble
Sunglasses Jacques Marie Mage Scarf Charvet On face Lab Series Rescue Water Lotion
Makeup Francelle (Art + Commerce) for Lovecraft Beauty Hair Ward (The Wall Group) Model Parker van Noord (DNA) Production PRODn LA at Art + Commerce Production managers Ellie Stills, Ryan Weatrowski Digital technician Giuseppe Rinaldi Photo assistants Samuel Stephenson, Sebastian Kapfhammer, Jordie Turner, David Winthrop Stylist assistants Moses Moreno, Sidney Lewis Retouching Digital Light Ltd. Location Chateau Marmont | Bungalow 2
Shirt Louis Vuitton Shorts Bode On hair Living Proof Style Lab Control Hairspray
Babacar wears coat Lanvin Shirt and pants Holland & Holland Vest Brooks Brothers Belt (top), earring (his right), rings (right index, ring, pinky fingers and left pinky finger, bottom) Chrome Hearts Wristband Givenchy Ring (left index finger) Alexander McQueen Ring (left middle finger) Ambush Necklace (throughout) stylist’s own Rings (left ring finger and pinky, top) model’s own
Wellington wears jacket, vest, shirt, pants Giorgio Armani Harness Amiri Belt David Menkes Earring (his right) Alexander McQueen
Babacar wears jumpsuit Sacai Jacket (worn under) Isabel Marant Sweater Gucci Pants Linder Shoes Converse Pocket square Joseph Abboud Bracelet (on waist) Givenchy Watch Omega Necklace, bracelet, rings (right ring and pinky fingers) Chrome Hearts Rings (left hand) model’s own
Wellington wears jacket, sweater, shirt Michael Kors Collection Belt Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello Earring (top) Saskia Diez Earring (bottom) Chrome Hearts Brooch stylist’s own On hair Fekkai Brilliant Gloss Multi-tasker Perfecting Crème
Babacar wears jacket, shirt, pants Ralph Lauren Belt David Menkes
Wellington wears coat, jacket, shirt, shorts, shoes Louis Vuitton Belt David Menkes Necklace Walt Cassidy Earrings (his right) Alexander McQueen
Wellington wears jacket, vest, top, dress, bag, shoes Raf Simons Earrings Alexander McQueen
Hair Fernando Torrent (L’Atelier NYC) Models Wellington Grant, Babacar N’doye (The Society) Production Tristan Orlando Rodriguez Digital technician Eduardo Fiel Lighting technician Mike Skigen Lighting director Ricardo Fernandes Location Root NYC
Babacar wears coat Amiri Jacket, sweater, shirt Missoni Wristband Givenchy Rings (ring and pinky fingers, bottom) Chrome Hearts Rings (ring and pinky fingers, top) model’s own
w av e next
Seven visionary artists and photographers travel the globe, charting out the best of swim 2020. Visit VMAN.com for the extended stories 116
Chris wears swimsuit Versace
Cape Town Photography Chris Smith
Groomer Athina Karakitsou (10 Arists Management) Model Ruben Martial (Select) Production Elena Sophia Ivaldi (Interlude Project), Manolis Petroulakis Digital technician Giulia Diegoli Casting Director Alexandra Sandberg Photo assistant Simone Triacca Stylist assistant Vassilis Karelas Groomer assistants Eva Papadaki, Elpida Romanou Casting assistant Catarina Tapper Production assistant Inga Lavarini (Interlude Project)
Santorini Ruben wears briefs Dsquared2 Shirt stylist’s own
Photography Álvaro Beamud Cortés Fashion Nicholas Georgiou
João wears shirt, shorts, swimsuit Fendi
Model João Knorr (NEXT) Location Gansevoort Meatpacking NYC
On face Shiseido Ultimate Sun Protection Cream WetForce SPF 50+ Sunscreen
New York Photography Giovanni Corabi Fashion Cece Liu
Photography Elina Kechicheva Fashion Simon Pylyser
Hair William Bartel (Artlist) Models Benoit Michel, Samuel V, Jocelino (Tomorrow Is Another Day) Production Charlotte Moulin (Talent and Partner) Photo assistants Milena Le Mao, Maya Zardi Location Piscine de la Butte aux Cailles- Bassin ExtĂŠrieur
Paris From left to right Samuel, Marcus, Benoit wear swimsuits Missoni
Hair Tsuki (Streeters) Models Jass Reemann (SOUL), Martijn Faaij (DNA) Stylist assistant Mina Erkli
Jass and Martijn wear swimsuits and towel Guess
Rockaway Beach Photography Marie Tomanova Fashion Dianna Lunt
Photography Igor Pjörrt
Noah wears swimsuit Tom Ford Towel photographer’s own On skin Tom Ford For Men Bronzing Gel
Model Noah Luis Brown (DNA)
Lausanne
Grooming La Toya Velberg Set design Erjan Borren Models Neo-Keanu Arrindell, Daan Heerschop, Birk Zevenbergen, and Driss Bouzarouata (KNOWN Model Management)
From left to right Birk wears swimsuit Polo Ralph Lauren Jewelry his own
Neo wears swimsuit Linder
Driss wears swimsuit Adidas
Daan wears swimsuit Ron Dorff
Amsterdam Photography Winter Vandenbrink Fashion Jos van Heel
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From New York to London to Shanghai, the Spring/Summer collections go sightseeing. Make sure to pack your passport! Photography Connor Franta Fashion Christian Stroble 124
Wall Street, New York Hector and Darron wear all clothing and accessories Thom Browne
Groomer Takuya Sugawara (Walter Schupfer) Models Hector Diaz (NEXT), Darron Clarke (IMG)
Forest Park, Portland Will wears all clothing and accessories Dior Men
Model Will Wadhams (Q6)
Xintiandi, Shanghai From left to right Hang, Chen, and Ding wear all clothing and accessories Prada
Models Hang Yu (Paras Talent Management), Chen Sheng (Longteng Model Management), Ding Qiang (Longteng Model Management)
Echo Park, Los Angeles Dakota wears all clothing and accessories Emporio Armani
Grooming Jenna Nelson (The Wall Group) Model Dakota Lindvall (IMG) Stylist assistant Victoria Cameron
Notting Hill, London Peter and Mitchell wear all clothing and accessories Burberry
Models Peter Dupont, Mitchell Gorthy (IMG)
Santa Monica Pier Dakota wears all clothing and accessories Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello
Grooming Jenna Nelson (The Wall Group) Model Dakota Lindvall (IMG) Stylist assistant Victoria Cameron
Fort Greene, Brooklyn Luis and Charlie wear all clothing and accessories Givenchy
Models Luis Paredes, Charlie Knepper (DNA)
Lower East Side, New York Justin and Hector wear all clothing and accessories Louis Vuitton On hair Oribe Curl Gloss Hydration & Hold
Groomer Takuya Sugawara (Walter Schupfer) Models Justin Eric Martin (NEXT), Hector Diaz (NEXT), Darron Clarke (IMG)
Darron wears all clothing and accessories Berluti
Silver Lake, Los Angeles Niko wears all clothing and accessories Les Hommes
Grooming Jenna Nelson (The Wall Group) Model Niko Traubman (IMG) Stylist assistant Victoria Cameron
Huangpu District, Shanghai Chen and Hang wear all clothing and accessories Lanvin
Models Chen Sheng (Longteng Model Management), Hang Yu (Paras Talent Management)
new establishment This season, a stable of new stars followed Ferragamo’s head creative Paul Andrew to the ancient city of Florence, hitting the cobblestones with a new vision of street style Photography James Robjant Fashion Gro Curtis
All clothing and accessories (throughout) Salvatore Ferragamo
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Grooming Nathaniel Dezan (Opus Beauty) Talent Dylan Sprouse (IMG), Hero Fiennes-Tiffin (Storm Models), Evan Mock, Jacob Bixenman (IMG) Lamar Johnson, Jack Mulhern Location Palazzo Spini Feroni
The Fountain of Neptune served as the impressive backdrop for Paul Andrew’s vision of Ferragamo this season. Unveiled in Florence on the occasion of the 30th anniversary of Pitti Uomo, it was the first show held at Piazza della Signoria, and the first time that the Italian brand staged a fashion show in its hometown. The label also contributed to the restoration of the Fountain of Neptune, which appeared as abstract prints throughout the collection. As illustrated by Andrew, the new Ferragamo man wanders the historic grounds in leather trousers, sleeveless moto-influenced jumpsuits, and wraparound shades. Legendary graphic designer Peter Saville made a cameo on the runway, while actor Hero Fiennes-Tiffin closed the show. It’s a fusion of influences that translates tradition to contemporary wit, or as Andrew explains, “[The Ferragamo man] has a sincere appreciation for tradition, yet isn’t threatened by a break from the norm—a [mix] of unconventional color, as well as a tendency toward subtlety and propriety.” To drive home Andrew’s view of the storied house, the brand assembled a group of men embodying this spirit, bringing the likes of Dylan Sprouse, Lamar Johnson, Jack Mulhern, Evan Mock, Jacob Bixenman, and Tommy Dorfman to Florence. Andrew details this approach saying, “Ferragamo would use the stars of cinema to embody the looks he was creating. This may not sound novel now, but back then it was a very new approach.” He continues to emphasize the importance of each man as if casting his own film, adding, “Dylan Sprouse is talented and driven, and so much fun to be around—I can’t wait to try his offerings from Brooklyn Distillery! Emblematic of that rebellious L.A. spirit, Evan Mock is the contemporary ‘cool guy.’ And I don’t know how he manages to do what he does on that skateboard of his. Tommy Dorfman is so talented, handsome, and kind. He also has a natural instinct for redefining traditional men’s sartorial codes of dressing. Hero Fiennes-Tiffin truly speaks to the spirit of the brand; he’s one of my favorite young [actors] right now and has also become a close friend. Lamar Johnson has appeared in such significant films—talent galore and such a great look. When Jacob Bixenman walks into a room, he is a presence that won’t be ignored. And Jack Mulhern is talented, great looking, stylish, and humble. We could all take a page from his book.” DEVIN BARRETT
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Suit up for the season, when spring and sun bring a blaze of light and color Photography Doug Inglish Fashion Nicola Formichetti 138
From left to right Matt wears swimsuit Desigual Samuel wears swimsuit Amiri Tristan wears swimsuit Guess Yoel wears swimsuit Desigual All sunglasses Oliver Peoples
Samuel wears swimsuit Emporio Armani Bracelet and rings Cartier Towel Missoni Sunglasses stylist’s own
Tommy wears shirt Comme des Garรงons Shirt Swimsuit Guess Hat Hollywood Toys & Costumes
Tommy wears swimsuit Versace Jacket and crown stylst’s own
Grooming Mira Chai (The Wall Group) using House of Skuff and Tom Ford Beauty Models Yoel Fernandez (NEXT), Matt Van De Sande (DT Model Management), Tristan Stovall (DT Model Management), Samuel Barrie (Two Management), Tommy Hackett (Wilhelmina) Digital technician Maxfield Hegedus Photo assistant Ryan Moraga Stylist assistant Megan King Grooming assistant Abraham Esparza
Clockwise from top left Matt wears swimsuit Desigual Yoel wears swimsuit Desigual Tristan wears swimsuit Guess Tommy wears swimsuit Desigual Samuel wears swimsuit Amiri
