-J.R.R TOLKIEN
WANDERLUST MAGAZINE | VOLUME 1, ISSUE 1 | APRIL 2012 This is a Ball State University magazine design class project, created spring semester 2012
FILLING the SPACES an editor’s note
Wanderlust is, to me, an intense feeling of needing to connect with people and places very diferent from what I’m used to. From time to time I am overcome by a desire to pack a backpack and just leave. No one has to know where I’ve gone; I’ll come back eventually. It’s not a matter of running away but of opening my eyes and gaining a fresh perspective. Wanderlust, to me, is a necessary feeling to experience in order to be a constantly evolving human being. Travel and exposure to new ideas and distant lands is essential in understanding the common humanity we all share. Wanderlust is the fuel to get us up and out of the monotony that we commonly fall into. Wanderlust fills the empty spaces. In this issue you will find stories of adventure, funny tidbits and places to add to your must-see map. I hope you are inspired as you thumb through these pages. Inspired to book a ticket and pack a bag, inspired to leave your desk and your to-do list and your comfort zone behind. There is a world to see and so many fellow travelers to meet along the way. Lace up your walking shoes, my friends, it is time. I’ll see you on the road.
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PLAN
GIVE
EXPLORE
7 Good gear: choosing the perfect backpack
15 Among friends travel with US SERVAS
29 Go take a hike
9 Stay safe but don’t stay home
19 Full hearts & sticky hands
33 Snapshots Ana Cabaliero shares scenes
11 Realtalk
23 Bits & pieces:
37 Time is nothing a journey around the world
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the truth about hostels
volunteering in Peru
to Nepal with love
discovering Norway
FEATURED
CONNECT
42 A land of contraditions
66 Conversation and the Camino
53 Dance of the Hoodoos
69 Banksy meets purpose
Haiti through the lens
3 girls, 5 nights in the canyonlands
Spanish breakfast break
world-changing street art
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plan
PLAN
finding the perfect
BACKPACK
WORDS // Valerie Carnevale PHOTOS // Liz Spangler
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Picking the right backpack is an important part of any trip. Too big, and you’ll have too much extra weight. Too small, and you’ll never fit anything in. Pick the wrong material, and when it rains, your stuff will be soaked. There’s so many options out there that it can be very confusing. Three Things to Consider: SIZE:Your backpack should be both proportional to your body and comfortable enough to allow you to carry about 20 pounds. If your backpack is too big or too small, the weight won’t be balanced properly and will cause you back pain or maybe even make you topple over. You don’t want a skyscraper rising from your back. Your bag should also be big enough to carry about 20 pounds because, in the end, you’re going to buy stuff and things shift and aren’t always packed well. STYLE: Let’s face it — you have to look at this backpack for a long time. Get something that you at least like looking at. Try out as many different styles as you can before you make your decision. But make sure you don’t sacrifice usability for style. Get something you like, but also something useful. It sits in the hostel for most of the time anyway. Don’t get the best-looking but most useless pack. MATERIAL: While it does not need to be 100% waterproof, make sure your bag is made out of a semiwaterproof material so everything doesn’t get wet in a drizzle (many packs come with tarps you can put over them in case of a severe downpour). Moreover, make sure the material won’t stay wet long and thereby get musty. Look for material that is a little thick but somewhat lightweight. Things your Backpack Should Have: FRONT PANEL LOADING: A lot of backpacks are top-
loading (you get in from the top), but when you need something in a hurry, this can be very inconvenient. Front-loading packs are much more convenient, as they zip around the length of the pack. This allows you to get into any part of your bag without having to take out all the stuff you packed if you need something at the bottom. It simply makes everything easier and more convenient to reach. Plus, it makes repacking your bag much quicker. This is not so important if you have a very small pack, however. MULTIPLE COMPARTMENTS: You don’t want to keep all your stuff in one place. Make sure your bag has multiple compartments so you can break up (and hide) your belongings. Moreover, this helps you get to everything easier. INTERNAL FRAME: Who wants big, ugly rods sticking out? The majority of backpacks today are internalframed (the rods are built into the bag), but some are still external (the rods are separate from the actual pack). Make sure you buy the internal frame. It not only looks better, but the rods won’t get caught on anything and your bag is also slimmer making moving around easier. Additionally, internal-framed packs tend to be lighter as the frame is composed of a lighter alloy. PADDED HIP BELT: Most of the weight you carry will be on your hips, so you’ll want a padded belt to make supporting the weight more comfortable. It should also be adjustable so you can tighten it for extra support. In the end, you will have to try on a variety of backpacks to see which one is the perfect fit for you and matches the size needs of your trip. The above tips are good but in the end, you just need to go with what feels right. A good place to purchase your backpack, as well as other supplies, is REI or a local sport shop.
GoLite Quest, $87.99
The North Face Zealot 70, $149
Lowe Alpine Pack, $120
Osprey Stratos 40, $130
REI Passage 65, $97.99
CamelBack Vantage, $145
Kelty Courser 40, $89
The North Face Terra Youth 55 Pack, $159
Osprey Aura 50, $134.99
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PLAN
stay safe
BUT DON’T STAY HOME WORDS // Ina Fischer PHOTOS // John Doe
1 2 3 4 5
Scan or photograph and email yourself all important personal documents prior to your departure. When camping make sure you bring a padlock with you. During the daytime, lock you tent from the outside and always carry the key with you. Don’t just fall asleep with your suitcase parked next to you! Either lie on top of your bag or use it as a pillow so that you will notice when someone touches or removes it. Don’t post your trip to Facebook. Statistics show that each year, numbers of break-ins and burglaries linked to holiday-related status updates or similar notifications increase. It may not be the most glamourous thing in the world, but it is definitely one of the most useful ones when you travel: the money belt. You can get one on amazon for less than €20,00.
6
When you arrive at the airport in a foreign country, don’t just accept a ride from the next best person claiming to be a taxi driver. It’s best to research official and reputable cab companies before your departure.
7
Know your souveniers. Depending on where you travel to, certain items like sea shells, rocks or even shark teeth can be seen as ‘national treasures’ or property of the country you’re in – and not to be removed from there.
Before you leave home, double check that your medication is legal in the countries you’re travelling to – sometimes it is not. Everybody loves a good tanning and swimming session on the beach. However, make sure you know the area before you dive into the waves!
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8 9 10
If you’re travelling with valuables such as laptops or expensive camera equipment, sometimes it is worth insuring these things before you leave.
PLAN
the truth about
HOSTELS
WORDS // Valerie Carnevale ILLUSTRATION // Valerie Carnevale
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As most young (poor!) travelers know, hostels are the way to go. Hostels provide budget oriented, sociable accommodation where guests can rent a bed, usually a bunk bed, in a dormitory and share a bathroom, lounge and sometimes a kitchen. Rooms can be mixed or single-sex, although private rooms may also be available. We asked our readers and found the (in our humble opinion) best hostels worldwide. Happy trails!
reader’s choice: best hostels in the world C’MON INN HOSTEL // MONCTON, CANADA
CITY LODGE // STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN http://www.citylodge.se/
HOSTEL KOKOPELLI // LIMA, PERU
www.hostelkokopelli.com
DAHAB HOSTEL // CAIRO, EGYPT http://www.dahabhostel.com/Home.html
CLINK261 // LONDON, ENGLAND
BAKHYTTY HOSTEL // KARAGANDA, KAZAKSTAN http://bakhyttyhostel.narod.ru/
http://monctonhostel.ca/location/
http://www.ashleehouse.co.uk/
ANJALI INN // MUMBAI, INDIA http://www.anjaliinn.com/
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give
GIVE
we’re all
AMONG FRIENDS Alternative travel with US Servas WORDS // Valerie Carnevale PHOTOS // Jane Doe
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For more than 60 years, United States Servas has been bringing hosts and travelers together. A place to stay, friendship to begin, ideas to be exchanged, cultures to be shared, and world peace one conversation at a time: these are the reasons why you are invited join us. U.S. Servas members are hosts and travelers of all ages, abilities and walks of life. Our more than 1500 hosts cover the whole spectrum of diversity. Through Servas’ enlightening visits, participants come face to face with new peoples and cultures to further their understanding
GIVE of the lives and concerns of others. Your participation and the friendships you’ll discover can make a difference in your life and the world you live in. In addition to the benefits of traveling and hosting, Servas also provides volunteer opportunities, hosts local gatherings and dinners, and sponsors national and international conferences, summer universities, and work camps. Servas staff and volunteers have developed a wonderful worldwide hospitality network. The seeds of this “open door” concept were sown in 1948 by U.S. peace activist Bob Luitweiler during his four-year journey from the folk schools of Denmark, through war-torn Europe and the Near East, to India’s ashrams (For more Servas History). U.S. Servas, Inc. was recognized by the U.N. as an official affiliated organization in 1998. It is an independent non-profit, non-political group, and is not associated with any religious or governmental agency. U.S. Servas, Inc. gives you opportunities to interact both internationally and domestically, with options to be a traveler as well as a host. There are also student programs and options to be an overnight host or just a day host. When it comes to alernative travel, U.S. Servas is an organization you’ll want to look into.
how to
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GET INVOLVED Go online to www.usservas.org and look through all the programs they offer
Fill out the application to be a traveler or host
Once your application is accepted, get matched up with a host or a traveler
Have fun meeting new friends around the country and world!
ONE for ONE ONE for ALL
www.tomsshoes.com
GIVE
sticky hands and
FULL HEARTS
two weeks in an orphanage in southern Peru WORDS & PHOTOS // Valerie Carnevale
Ever since I was old enough to understand the question “What do you want to do when you grow up?”, my answer has been the same. I want to travel the world. I want to plant my two feet on as much foreign soil as possible. I want to soak up cultures, stories, grow to see humanity through a different set of eyes than my own. When my friend Amy asked me if I wanted to go on a mission trip to South America with her, there was no hesitation. It was spring of my junior year of college and I had just returned from a spring break mission trip to the Bronx in New York City. Serving people in a very different situation than my own for a week was humbling, heart-breaking and beautiful, and I wanted more. Amy did some research and found an order of Catholic sisters who accepted women to be volunteers with them all over the word. We sent some emails and settled on an orphange in southern Peru. The plans were a little shaky; we weren’t entirely sure the sisters would
even be at the bus station to pick us up, never having gotten a reply from them. They spoke no english, Amy and I spoke very little Spanish. My grandmother had her entire parish praying for us, sure we would be kidnapped and never seen again. As I’ve witnessed time and time again, things work out better than I can ever plan myself. The sisters were there to pick us up and we spent two weeks in the dusty mountain town of Chuquibamba, Peru, learning to communicate through means other than words and understanding what it means to love. We danced ballet folklorico barefoot in the kitchen, laid on our backs on the roof and gazed at the entire Milky Way and woke up to roosters and donkeys making their morning noises in the streets. The children in the orphanage captured my heart and I left a piece of it there that I will never get back. We had constantly sticky hands and always overflowing hearts. It was an adventure I’ll never forget. WANDERLUST • 20
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GIVE
BITS and PIECES to Nepal with love WORDS // Laura Handy-Nimick PHOTOS // Jason Nimick
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I grew up learning life’s lessons in bits and pieces. My sister and I learned to be careful by falling off the swings. We learned to stand up for ourselves by fighting our own childlike battles. We learned that women can be kind and powerful by watching our mom. My dad taught us that we were tougher than we thought, even when we had tears in our eyes. When I graduated from high school I packed up my bits and pieces, which I thought amounted to being whole and full, and headed off to college. Sometime between my first day at The Evergreen State College and the time I graduated five years later, I realized that the life I thought was whole and full, was missing bits and pieces my parents couldn’t instill in me. After teaching for a few years it became clear that it was time to conquer my biggest fears and realize one of my biggest dreams by traveling to Nepal. My parents are adventurous and experts at roughing-it, but world travelers they are not. After emails back and forth with Papa of Papa’s House and Nepal Orphans Home I decided July was to be spent with Volunteer Nepal. When I told my parents of my plans they referenced a map and my mom scheduled, what I now know to be, “possibly our last pedicure together.” When I arrived in Nepal my excitement wavered as the realization of poverty and
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pollution sunk in. I spent my mornings braiding hair at Papa’s House and having tea with other volunteers. Once the children had been walked to school I was formally introduced to Kathmandu. I traveled to ancient and beautiful historical sites that were littered with wrappers and cheap vendors. I dodged traffic, played reality bumper-cars and breathed air that can only be described as putrid decay. Even though my heart had trouble digesting the poverty, I fell in l-o-v-e with the children of Nepal Orphan’s Home. I had spent five years teaching and working with students who were unimpressed, unengaged and often ungrateful. The children in Nepal were none of these things. They exuded gratitude, kindness, and a sense of curiosity that I had not experienced before.
After a week in Kathmadu I went on to spend the majority of my trip teaching and working at the Lawajuni Girls Hostel in Narti, Nepal. The hostel is located in a small village just north of the Indian border. The girls I worked with had been rescued from the Kamlari system, a system of culturally engrained, indentured, servitude. I have so many stories from my time there locked inside me, but the most profound is the story of Gita. Gita was a very small girl who had been rescued within days of my arrival. Over a few days of shy play, coloring and walks I fell in love, again. We spent hours a day together learning the alphabet, picking bitter fruit (my co-volunteer nicknamed them ass berries), and dancing on the roof of the brokendown school. The day I left Gita packed her
bags and told the other girls she was “going to America.” The bus ride back to Kathmandu at the end of my time in Narti was 15 hours and I cried every minute I wasn’t sleeping. I had never experienced heartbreak as profound as having to leave Gita behind. When I arrived back in Kathmandu I talked to my then boyfriend (now my husband) and told him I met an amazing little girl and I wanted to adopt her. He promised me we would do everything we could to make that a reality. Ten days after we started the adoption process in 2010 the U.S. Government closed adoptions of abandoned children in Nepal. Since then we have gone down a roller coaster of progress and disappointment. We continue to work on getting her relinquished from her parents, but struggle to justify a governmental system that allows a parent to sell their child into slavery, but still requires a “legal relinquishment” to give her up for adoption. We knew it would be a difficult path to travel, but it was one we had to take. Unfortunately it has resulted in us having a daughter who lives in our hearts, but remains indefinitely in Nepal. Since leaving Nepal in 2009, Justin and I have started Life’s Handy Work, a non-profit organization to help the children of Nepal Orphans Home go to college, get vocational training and start lives for themselves outside of Papa’s walls. We have spent more time in Nepal and our lives continue to grow richer and more enmeshed with the children there and our friends in Nepal. Michael “Papa” Hess, NOH’s founder, has added new bits and pieces to my collection by teaching me what it means to give unconditionally. He has also taught me the value of being openly in love with and supportive of a culture and people that I barely even know and have limited access to. In the United States we are conditioned to think of the world in colors and lines, but once I spent time in Nepal I realized there are no lines, just colors. My parents gave me all of the bits and pieces they could find, afford and create, but in the end I collected them to give them away. Traveling to Nepal made me realize that I will never be whole, or even full. To truly serve my family, my community and the world I have realized I have to give parts of who I am to help other people reach their potential WANDERLUST • 26
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explore
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EXPLORE
go take A HIKE discovering Norway
WORDS & PHOTOS // Kathrine Opshaug Bakke
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Ever since I moved away from Norway I find there is something magical about returning to the fjords and the mountains. After spending time in the ”concrete jungle” or in small green spots in the city it is liberating to go walking for hours and get some fresh mountain-air. Sometimes you can also find a nice spot to take a (freezing) bath. When I go back to visit my family, I normally try to get a few hiking trips up in the mountains. Some of my favourite spots are up in “Tafjordfjella” and “Sunnmørsalpane” , where you find yourself staring hundreds of meters down into a fjord. When you go hiking in the mountain there are a few things you should keep in mind.
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1. Say hello to everybody, when you’re hiking in Norway everyone you meet is your friend. 2. Bring your own food. Norwegians love their “matpakke” (food package) which normally consists of bread with cheese or salami, wrapped in brown paper. And you should bring the Norwegian chocolate “Kvikk Lunsj” – this is basic knowledge among Norwegians. 3. You can drink the water from most brooks and rivers in the mountains. As a kid, I drank the water close to an outdoor toilet though, and would not recommend anyone to do the same.. 4. Wear good hiking shoes and bring some blister plasters, as you are sure to get sore feet. 5. Follow the red T’s! These are official paths prepared by the Norwegian Trekking Association. 6. Sign the small book when you get to a peek, it is normally in some wooden box or hidden in small box in one of the stone piles on the top. This is mostly because you can brag about getting top and have some proof for it later. 7. Go together with someone, as even the most experienced hiker can face some problems when she goes into the wild.. The Norwegian Trekking Association have offices in most cities and can tell you the best hiking routes in addition to providing you with hiking maps. If you buy a membership, which costs a bit more than 30 euros for students and around 60 for others you also get access to their self-service cabins. A week of hiking in the mountain and staying at these cabins is a great way of seeing as much as possible without having to carry the extra weight of a tent. The membership also supports the nature conservation and helps the association maintain the marked paths and cabins in the mountains.
explore
through the eyes of ANA
CABALIERO
WORDS & PHOTOS // Ana Cabaliero
Even though Spanish photographer Ana Cabaleiro claims she has no idea on how to use a camera and that she has only picked up photography about 5 years ago, her photos are absolutely stunning. If you look at them you will notice, that she mainly takes pictures of people from behind, in front of a backdrop of breathtaking landscapes. That way, these images give you the impression of standing right behind those people, and while not knowing them at all, one still somehow shares the moment with them. We asked Ana, who lives in Vigo, Spain, some questions regarding her photography:
How is traveling part of your life?
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My partner is from the Basque Country, near to the French border, and we go there every summer. There is so much contrast in tthe different landscapes there, you can visit a desert in Navarra or drive two hours and suddenly you are in a huge green mountain. I think that’s why I started to feel the need of discover new places and shoot them, both things are closely related for me. I love to discover different sceneries, to have that feeling of being speechless. Almost as good and exciting as the trip itself, for me is the drive there, listening to mixtapes. Anyway we try to travel to new places every month that aren’t too far from my hometown.
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What got you into photography? I started five years ago, but i always admired photography. As music is my other passion (I have a blog called Microphones in the Trees) I’ve always thought that album covers are very significant and I’ve often times bought an album just because of the beautiful album cover. Part of it is probably also down to my friend who takes beautiful pictures: Rafa Romero aka Àrbore.
Which cameras and techniques do you use? I love my old Praktica bc1 with 50mm lens and expired films. I also shoot with Olympus om10, Smena 8mm, Zenit E, Yashica t4 and lately with a Lomo LC-A, a present from a friend. I occasionally shoot with Polaroid Spectra and Polaroid sx-70.
What are your favorite places in the world to take photos? I love deserts and i never get tired of Las Bardenas Reales in Navarra. I’m happy in vast, abandoned and lonely places but I guess my favorites are still to come. I would love to visit the Atacama and Uyuni deserts, Iceland, Thailand, and go on a road trip through America.
What is your favourite picture and WHY? My favourite picture changes every day, but this one is very special to me. It is serene, the light is soft, even the way the two old men are dressed is soft, each one of them looked in a different direction. Old friends enjoying their voyage. I would love to see myself that way a few years down the line.
What advice would you give other girls who travel? Don’t hesitate if you see something that catches your eye. Just that.
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explore
TIME IS NOTHING A journey around the world WORDS // Valerie Carnevale PHOTOS // Kien Lam
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In early 2010, Kien Lam set out on the adventure of a lifetime. He left behind his home, job and life in San Francisco and embarked on a trip around the world. In 343 days he visited 17 countries, took 19 planes, 58 buses, 18 boats and hitched a ride from Portugal to Spain. He took roughly 25,000 photos, including 6,237 time-lapse photos which were compiled into a video that was shared around the world. He slept in hostels, on camel blankets, under mosquito nets, on beach front bungalows and sometimes not at all. Sometimes he spent a day in a place, sometimes a week. His only goal was to follow the sun and soak up as much culture as he could.
explore
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“I would usually figure out my next destination when I was ready to leave my current one. Sometimes it was a particular dish, sight or story that brought to the next city and sometimes it was the company I kept and our desire to travel together for just a bit longer.”
“Where did I sleep? Hostels. Beneath the stars. On camel blankets. Under mosquito nets. In bamboo huts. On beach front bungalows. In 16 bed dorm rooms. On a felucca. Next to a stranger on the bus. In fetal position on train. In an old palace. And sometimes not at all.”
LIFE IS EITHER A
DARING ADVENTURE
OR NOTHING. - HELEN KELLER -
WWWW.AWELLTRAVELEDWOMAN.TUMBLR.COM
CARRY AN EDUCATION BENSON BACKPACKS | www.BENSONBACKPACKS.com
i t i a h of
d n a l A TRADICTIONS
CON
HAITI O T IP R T N IO S IS M A WENT ON I , 11 0 2 F O H C R A M IN NCING IE R E P X E F O Y R O T S Y HIS IS M T . K A E R B G IN R P S R O F MIDST A Y JO E U R T Y R T N THE COU F O S T S A R T N O C E H T MY LENS. H G U O R H T IR A P S E D OVERWHELMING
LE A V E N R A C IE R E L A V PHOTOS by
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the dance of the
hoodoos Three girls, five nights on a trip through Utah’s canyonlands WORDS & PHOTOS // Robin Baker WATERCOLORS // Maddie Kinast
W
ponder the ducks, though I ponder them still, it was time to move
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e began our journey from LAX around 11AM on November 19. Ruby (my car) was loaded with all of our gear, extra warm clothes, plenty of books, and food I’d bought days in advance. We were ready for adventure. And though we’d packed our schedule full we were practicing the art of why not. See a sign for a ghost town just two miles off the main road? Why not!? Stop for dinner at Denny’s in the middle of nowhere, otherwise known as, “the gateway to space”? Why not!? Our “why not” mantra proved to be a rewarding practice for the entirety of our trip. Some of our greatest moments came from these why not side-ventures. We spent our first night in Death Valley where California welcomed Amy and Cori with all the colors of a perfect sunset. After settling into our camp we began our nightly tradition of reading short stories to one another before falling asleep in the tent. It was warm enough to sleep without the rain fly so when the sky began growing brighter I thought it was time for sunrise. I quietly unzipped the door to the tent, slid on my shoes, and stepped out into the fading darkness. When I looked toward the mountains lining our campground I saw two illuminated horns rising over the peak. It wasn’t the sun that was threatening the darkness, it was the moon. I watched the moon until she’d raised her entire crescent body to the center of the sky before returning to the tent. The area around us was quiet, all of the other campers sound asleep. That moon rise was meant for me. In the morning, as the sun wrapped his orange arms around the horizon, we made our way to a bowl 282 feet below sea level, the lowest point in North America, the womb of the earth. Badwater Basin. The Basin is a strange, uninhabitable place covered in ridges of sand, salt, and brine, moist from ancient glacial runoff. To be sure the water there really is bad, much to the dismay of companions, I swiped my index finger along the floor of the basin and gave it a taste. Save yourself the trouble. It’s pure salt. Knowing this, I was surprised to see two ducks wading in the small pond of water pooled near the entrance to the basin. Certainly they couldn’t stay there for long and there is no other water for many miles. I worried about the ducks. Where were they going? Where were the coming from? Were they lost? Little time to
onward toward Utah, a land of haunting beauty that I believe may be responsible for pushing Amy, Cori and I all just a bit closer to insanity. From Death Valley we continued east toward Zion, the first National Park in a string of parks we’d planned to visit in Utah. We passed through Area 51 where we barely escaped an alien abduction. We waved a quick hello and goodbye to Las Vegas before crossing briefly into Arizona and finally, Utah. Thank all there is to thank for Utah. When we arrived in Zion National Park we were pleased to find that autumn was still lingering on the leaves. We walked the short pathway to Weeping Rock. This rock doesn’t weep because
Cori, Amy and I scrambled the boulders that ran along the river instead of taking the trail. More fun for us. We pulled out of Zion just in time for sunset, promising we’d be back. Tonight, we had an appointment with Bryce Canyon. The hoodoos were calling. Three hours more of driving and we found a campground in Bryce. Once the tent was up and dinner was made we cozied into the tent for another round of bedtime stories and sleep. A thin layer of snow blanketed the ground, the trees, and eventually the tent. We slept soundly in the winter wonderland until 5AM. We’d been told by a sign that if we went to Bryce Point we’d see the
“I like to remember that all of the beautiful places I’ve seen are existing, always, even when I’m not there to see them.” -Robin Baker
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it is sad. It is perpetually weeping out of joy and appreciation for the beauty that surrounds it everyday, for all the goodness in the world mirrored on the canyon walls. From Weeping Rock we continued to the short path at the end of the road to Riverside walk. It’s another very easy hike, ending at the river that leads to The Narrows (a very popular cayoneering destination). Naturally, I thought I’d see how far up the river my legs would take me. Maybe I could catch just a glimpse of those smooth red walls I’d been so eager to meet. I rolled up my pant legs, turned to Amy and said, “I’ll be back,” and off I went. I didn’t get far. The water in the first section was up to my knees and ice-cold. Just around the second bend I saw two people trudging through chest high water. Not today, self.
hoodoos illuminated like thousands of burning candles at sunrise. Why not? We sleepily made our way to Bryce point, welcoming our second day 8582 feet higher than we’d welcomed our first. When we arrived we found more darkness. We’d come too early for the sun. We waited. As the sky began to grow lighter we walked to Bryce Point where we did see the hoodoos, beautiful but not flaming. Perhaps the sun does not wish to rise today. What shall we do? Dance! Because if the sun ain’t rising, maybe dancing will make it come. And if that doesn’t work and the sun never rises? What else is there to do but dance? And dance we did. Around in a circle singing, “hoodoo hoodoo hoodoo hoodoo hoodoo”. Yes, this would make the sun rise. Or, at
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the very least, provide our bodies with warmth and our bellies with laughter. We finally gave up on seeing the flaming candles and reluctantly declared a loss to the clouds covering the sun. The same sign that suggested this spot for sunrise made mention of Queens Garden trail, calling it “The best three mile hike in the world”. Why not? When we arrived at the trail head the sun finally came out from behind the clouds and those hoodoos did light up. The trail switch-backed gently down into the canyon, then passed through huge orange walls, and finally opened into a maze through the hoodoos. We’d made it to our appointment. From Bryce Canyon to Capitol Reef, the road stretched on mile after beautiful mile. We found ourselves silenced by the beauty of Capitol Reef and again had no choice but to dance, to shout, to weep in appreciation of the earth. After seeing what we could of the park in our limited number of hours we continued toward Caynonlands, Island in the Sky. We wouldn’t understand why it was named this until morning when light fell on the world around us. We arrived long after night fall and went about our treasured nightly routine, this time enjoying hot chocolate and a warm fire before sliding into our sleeping bags, turning on our headlamps, and reading from Vonnegut and Salinger. In the morning we went to Visitor’s Center to fill our water bottles and decide which trails to hike. Then, we discovered canyons inside canyons inside canyons. We did three hikes this day (I think). And each one gave us a new perspective of the land we were so fortunate to find ourselves in. The further we got into Utah and the more beauty we discovered, the more we wondered why no one had ever told us about it. Cori believes that we
should all be celebrating Utah. She volunteered to be Obama’s Utah speech writer. We’ll organize parades, celebrations, moments of silence in honor of what we discovered in Utah. I like to remember that all of the beautiful places I’ve seen are existing, always, even when I’m not there to see them. Even when there is no one there to see them. No matter where I am, the beauty of the wildflowers on Mt. Ranier, the deep blue waters of Crater Lake, the soft red bark of the Sequoias, the strangeness of the Joshua Trees, the emptiness of Death Valley, and the rough elegance of the Utah desert go on existing. And that is something worth celebrating. By the fourth evening of our trip we had started to forget what day it was, where we’d come from, and why we were ever going back. Only two nights left and only one more National Park to visit: Arches. We stopped for lunch in Moab (AKA place I think about running away to on a daily basis) before going to the park. By the time we arrived we had only three hours to see what we could before sunset. After drooling over the scenery and a studly trailcrew on the Windows loop trail (Here we are in one of the most beautiful places in the world and we still get distracted at the sight of a good looking man hammering away at rocks. A man who uses his hands…swoon. We’re only human.) we hiked the trail to Delicate Arch in anticipation of the best place to watch the sunset in the park. When we arrived there were dozens of other people already there. After the three of took a quick photo under the arch Cori spent time with it, capturing details most of us miss and took a photo for two fellow female travelers. Amy and I waited across the rock when someone from the large crowd shouted,
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“Give me a crackling fire and pine forest. Give me freezing cold and a pile of rocks. Give me the ocean and a few close friends. The earth and good people, I don’t need much else.” -Robin Baker
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“Get out of the arch!!” Laughter. Then another voice, “Please get out of the arch. The sun is almost setting!” It wasn’t. But Cori and her new friends obliged. Twenty minutes later the sun started to sink, and another fifteen minutes after that, the women Cori had taken a photo for walked over to us. I had already talked briefly with them about what they should see between Arches and Zion (Capital Reef and Bryce of course) but now we had chance for more intimate conversation. Tara and Colleen, two twenty-something women, had just wrapped up a long rafting trip and were en route to Tahoe where they were hoping to find seasonal jobs. Hooray for other nomadic women! On our hike down they asked about us. Listening to Cori and Amy tell about their lives and plans made me realize how lucky I am to have them as friends. Amy has a great job as an assistant editor at a website in New York and Cori is working with AmeriCorps and teaching classes for people whose second language is English. They’re both doing good things in the world and they’ve got plans of more good things to come. I felt cool by association. That night we met up with my friend, Jim, who lives in Moab and offered to let us sleep in his house for the night. I always feel a bad for people that have to be around Cori, Amy and I. All together we can be a bit much. And after so many days in the wilderness interacting with very few people other than ourselves, our social skills weren’t great. Jim listened to us giggle through ridiculous stories at dinner, witnessed our shock at the variety of options on the menu, and helped
us to understand why Utah is called “the beehive state”. We all agreed (our waitress included) that Utah needs a new slogan. Later, at Jim’s house, we sat around on the floor around a box of his books, each of us forming our own stack, flipping through pages, asking, “do you really want to keep this one? Can I have it?” Books and books and books and books. One part of my ideal place. Book heaven. Thank you, Jim. Exhausted by the goodness of everything, we went to sleep, this time without bedtime stories lighted by headlamp. We were sleeping in a warm place, with room to spread out. What a luxury! In the morning we left just after sunrise to visit Arches one more time before going to Denver. The drive was beautiful but touched with sadness. This would be the last day and night of our trip. We got to Denver around 2PM and immediately upon seeing it decided we didn’t want to be there at all. After days in the natural wonder of Southern Utah we were disgusted with the city of Denver. Within minutes we left.I’m a woman of earth, dirt, rocks, and trees. The further I withdraw into nature the more uncomfortable I am in some cities (New York has always been an exception). Denver wasn’t the city I remembered it being when I lived in Colorado ten years ago. We left almost as soon as we’d arrived and went to Boulder where we spent the evening wandering the bookstores and coffee shops before meeting up with a friend from college for dinner. Hours of good conversation later, we returned to Denver where a friend of a friend was letting us sleep on his couches. We were exhausted and
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thought there was nothing that could get us out of the apartment for the night but then Gaston, the man we stayed with in Denver, invited us out to a bar where they had giant jenga and ski ball. Why not!? We spent a few minutes in the crowded, noisy bar before giving each other the not-our-scene-look and vamoosing. I don’t hold it against people who like crowded, noisy bars but after college where I’d played that part enough years seeking to meet the idea of me I thought people wanted to have, I’ve had enough of those places. That’s a role I don’t want to play. Give me a crackling fire and pine forest. Give me freezing cold and a pile of rocks.
Day building upon day, as breath upon breath, and no reason for my presence in this day or the next. I’ll admit my weaknesses here and say that this was a difficult thing to accept. I struggle with being present where I am so I thought that maybe knowing that I had nowhere to be would help me be just where I was. Still, the years of being conditioned to structure made this a very difficult task. I was too weak to accept not having a plan. I was not ready to sit with the emptiness. I asked Jim if I could come back to his house for the night and if we could climb together the next day. He said yes and I felt an immediate sense of relief at knowing at least where I’d
“We found ourselves silenced by the beauty and again had no choice but to dance, to shout, to weep in appreciation of the earth.” -Robin Baker
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Give me the ocean and a few close friends. The earth and good people, I don’t need much else. In the morning I brought Cori to the aiport and Amy met up with her parents to celebrate Thanksgiving. I hugged Cori goodbye outside of Denver International and was, again, alone. I had nowhere to be, no one to meet up with. I have no appointments. I thought of visiting my family’s old home in Colorado Springs, or perhaps the one in Larkspur. Should I go stand in front of the hospital where my mom died? I sometimes hold onto the idea that if I go back to all of those places seeing them again will undo what happened or at least make it hurt less. But I know that’s not true and I didn’t want to do that on this day. Enough with being alone. I went West. It was Thanksgiving and I had nowhere to be. What difference the day? I had nowhere to be for two weeks.
be that night and the next day. I’m still human. On my way back to Moab I drove through Colorado National Monument and tried to appreciate the beauty of the canyons I was seeing. I struggled with taking my time that day as I had many days before and many days since. Even with the knowledge that no one was expecting me anywhere and that I had nothing to accomplish, I felt hurried. That night as I neared Moab the sun lowered himself elegantly beneath the horizon, marking the end of my adventure with my two best friends and welcoming me into a series of days building upon days leading to nothing.
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connect
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connect
BREAKFAST
on the Camino de Santiago WORDS // Andrew McCarthy PHOTOS // Kathrine Travelette
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It had already been a long slog. I had started in the south of France, crossed the Pyrenees Mountains to Pamplona, Spain, trudged through the wine district of La Rioja, then made my way through the city of Burgos and across Spain’s high and barren central plains. I was more than halfway into a 500-mile trek along the classic route for the Camino de Santiago (Way of St. James), a pilgrimage that ends in the Galician capital of Santiago de Compostela, where, according to Catholic tradition, the bones of Saint James were discovered in the ninth century. Religious dictate holds that pilgrims who make this walk will receive a plenary indulgence and—at least in past days—have their time in purgatory knocked off. During the Middle Ages, the Way of St. James was a noble and popular pursuit. Centuries later, my reasons for walking it were purely secular. I just wanted to do a good long amble—or so I told myself. After three weeks I’d made few friends among the other pilgrims I’d encountered. My schoolboy Spanish had proven woefully inadequate with the locals. I was tired, lonely,
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CONNECT and unhappy. But I tromped on, knowing that failure would result in a disgrace more unbearable than my misery. For several days the talk along the way had been of a steep gain in elevation when the route climbed to O Cebreiro, a village perched at 4,284 feet in a mountain pass between the Ancares and Courel mountain ranges. This climb was said to be even more challenging than the Pyrenees, which had nearly ended my journey before it began. I’d heard of pilgrims hiring locals to transport their backpacks up to O Cebreiro. Some were rumored to have hired a taxi for the climb, sacrilege for a true pilgrim. Just past dawn I set out alone—as usual—from the village of Vega de Valcarce and began my way toward O Cebreiro. The terrain was rolling and lush. By mid-morning I’d reached a small village beyond which, I knew from a glance, the climb into the mountains began. Hungry, I found a solitary restaurant. I pushed on the heavy wooden door and entered a deep, unlit room with dark furniture. Seeing no one, I called out, and a man stepped through a doorway behind the bar. I explained my needs as best I could. He said the chef had yet to arrive and the restaurant wouldn’t open for a few hours. My pack sagged heavy on my back. It would be a long climb on an empty stomach. I turned to go. As I reached for the door he called after me. “Espera,” he said. “Wait.” I stopped. With reluctance he told me he had just returned from a morning of fishing, would I care for some trout? I dislike fish but I appreciated his generosity. I sat down in the dark to wait. Twenty minutes later he appeared with a plate bearing two small, whole trout, each with Serrano ham wedged inside. “Trucha a la Navarra,” he said. “It is a local dish.” Then he left, and without enthusiasm I picked up my fork. The white flesh literally fell from the bone; the ham was as dense and rich as the fish was light and moist. I ate slowly and with great care. Alone in the shadowy room, I felt myself finally arrive in Spain. When I’d finished, my host returned and we chatted. My Spanish suddenly had a confidence it had lacked for weeks. We talked of the camino, of fishing, of America; we parted friends. I marched on up to O Cebreiro without strain. I felt like the man I would have liked myself to be but rarely was. The next two weeks passed in a blaze of synchronicity and fellowship. When I finally strode onto the streets of Santiago de Compostela, I was filled with a joy and gratitude that I haven’t forgotten to this day, 15 years later.
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CONNECT
MOVE OVER, BANKSY world’s biggest illegal art exhibition
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WORDS & PHOTOS // Kathrine Opshaug Bakke
A couple years ago, I was walking along the Seine in Paris, and noticed that a bridge and the stonewalls by the riverbank were covered by huge eyes in black and white. I found it fascinating, but I unfortunately forgot about it. Big mistake, since the artist behind it is one of the most inspiring street artists of our time. Yes, I’ve heard about Banksy, but believe me when I say that what JR (the street artist I’m about to talk about) is doing, makes me believe that art can really change the world. JR won the TED Prize with his inside out project earlier this year. Inside out is a large-scale participatory art project that transforms messages of personal identity into pieces of artistic work. Upload a portrait. Receive a poster. Paste it for the world to see. This way everyone are able to participate in the project, all you need is a camera or someone to take a picture for you. To know more about the project and JR’s work, watch him talk about it in this TED video: Street-art artists can leave their mark on society, tell everyone that they were there. JR started taking pictures and pasting them at the age of 17, and he soon realized that the city is the best gallery he could imagine. Armed with paper and glue, he later took up the work of changing the world with art. During the riots in Paris in 2005, he took pictures of immigrants portrayed as dangerous thugs in the media. In his images, they were showing a different face, posing as caricatures of themselves. The images were pasted on walls in middle-class areas of town, challenging peoples’ prejudices. In Palestine/Israel he took pictures of Palestinians and Israelis doing the same job, and they all agreed to be posted face to face in huge formats in the world’s biggest illegal art exhibition. The images were posted in unavoidable places, on the Israeli and Palestinian side. Through this project he was hoping to contribute to a better understanding between Israelis and Palestinians. Read more about the Face2Face project here. Telling us we are not as different as we think, and empowering women through his “Women are heroes” project in Brazil, Sudan, Kenya, Sierra Leone, Mbo, Cambodia and Liberia – JR is truly committed to changing the world. In this project he is portraying women who’ve had a troubled life, and though his images they all got the chance to share their story. To let their story travel. They share heartbreaking stories involving rape and brutal murder of children, of such character that
you wouldn’t expect this person to still be alive inside. He asked these women to make faces, like he did in Paris and Palestine/Israel. Through these images, that were pasted up in the women’s home community, he showed that the women were very much alive and an important voice of the community. Make sure you check out his movie about the project: “Women are heroes.” It has been important to JR to ensure that the street art that he creates together with the community also feels like their own, and to
create a feeling of trust with those he portrays. This closeness to the other person becomes clear in the warmth projected by these portraits of people making funny faces. Entering troubled neighbourhoods in Paris, the Providencia favela in Rio and other shantytowns around the world would have been difficult without building trust and creating a certain closeness to the community. Thanks to JR, women around the would have been able to tell their story.
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WANDERLUST - EST. 2012 -
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Valerie Carnevale
CREATIVE DIRECTOR Katelin Carter Pam Leidig-Farmen
CHIEF DE-STRESSOR SadieDog
CAPTAIN OF COFFEE SUPPLYING Matthew Keinsley
CONTRIBUTORS Chelsea Kardokus Katelin Carter Robin Baker Laura Handy-Nimick Maddie Kinast
www.WANDERLUSTMAG.com info@wanderlustmag.com @wanderlustmagazine
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Special thanks to my wonderful parents who never stopped telling me that I would, in fact, get everything done. You are the best.
Wanderlust is dedicated to the idea of travel as a means of understanding one’s existence. The magazine serves readers who pursue purposeful travel and acts both as an outlet for sharing ideas as well as inspiration for lifechanging adventures. Wanderlust serves readers across all ages and regions whose goal in travel is not to check places off a map, but to gain a broader worldview and better understanding of themselves.
SOURCES GRABBED ADS REI: http://www.google.com/imgres?hl=en& biw=1228&bih=625&tbm=isch&tbnid=qnxtjt upCcAUmM:&imgrefurl=http://mikehayward. com/&docid=-SnH9kq4GH9tGM&imgurl=http:// mikehayward.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/ REI-3856-2-PlasmaTV_B3.jpg&w=1575&h=2100& ei=i4aGT4jCDsOt8AH6_42UCA&zoom=1&iact=rc &dur=355&sig=111742931037662417023&page= 1&tbnh=127&tbnw=97&start=0&ndsp=22&ved= 1t:429,r:6,s:0,i:80&tx=47&ty=46 Wyoming: http://www.google.com/imgres?hl=en &biw=1228&bih=625&tbm=isch&tbnid=y5AdiqATe X0OdM:&imgrefurl=http://pubsub.com/People-onthe-Move-Andre-Mika-Leaves-NHL-to-Head-Digitalat-TBA-Global-topic-advertising-age-aO142eIqGZ WS&docid=gJuQyP5zDLLjkM&imgurl=http://adsoftheworld.com/files/images/wot_tetons.preview. jpg&w=434&h=590&ei=go-GT6zlB6Sn8AHOntHEC A&zoom=1&iact=rc&dur=284&sig=1117429310376 62417023&page=1&tbnh=136&tbnw=108&start=0 &ndsp=18&ved=1t:429,r:0,s:0,i:68&tx=79&ty=41 Be Well Traveled: http://lostinamerica.tumblr.com/ post/18686828450/lylaandblu-be-well-traveled-bylyla-blu DESIGNED ADS Postcard project: www.ohpioneer.com TOMS Shoes: http://www.savvyonpearl.com/tomsshoes.html Benson Backpacks: www.bensonbackpacks.com A Well-Traveled Woman: www.awelltraveledwoman.tumblr.com MASTHEAD: Photo 1, 2, 3, 4: www.ohpioneer.com TABLE OF CONTENTS: Photo 1: http://www.travelettes.net/through-theeyes-of-ana-cabaleiro/ Photo 2: http://ohpioneer.com/ Photo 3: Katelin Carter, BSU student PLAN OPENER Photo: Carl Zoch, http://bippityboppityboo.tumblr. com/post/16512591803 BACKPACKS STORY Text: http://www.nomadicmatt.com/travel-tips/ choosing-the-right-backpack/ Photos: google image search, https://www. google.com/search?q=backpacking+pack&hl= en&prmd=imvns&source=lnms&tbm=isch&ei= 7n-GT6P_NYmD8AHxr9y4CA&sa=X&oi=mode_ link&ct=mode&cd=2&ved=0CHoQ_ AUoAQ&biw=1228&bih=625
HOSTELS STORY **all original content** GIVE OPENER Photo: Falling Whistles, http://www.fallingwhistles. com/media/north-kivu/ US SERVAS STORY Text: http://www.usservas.org/ Photo 1: Michael Jastremski, http://www.photoree. com/photos/permalink/8871993-Michael%20 Jastremski Photo 2: Vagabondquest.com, http://www. vagabondquest.com/oceania/new-zealand/fridayphoto-best-looking-hitchhiking-backpackers/ Photo 3: http://webcache.googleusercontent. com/search?q=cache:http://ohpioneer.com/ post/13795050742 Illustrations: Chelsea Kardokus, BSU student PERU STORY **all original content** NEPAL STORY Text: Laura Handy-Nimick Photo 1, 3, 4: Jason Nimick Photo 2: Karin Hardin, http://www.stand4kids.org/ author/karen-hardin/ EXPLORE OPENER Photo: Kaity Barrett, http://www.flickr.com/photos/ kaityrosebarrett/5592292637/ NORWAY STORY Text, photo 1,: Kathrine Opshaug Bakke, http:// www.travelettes.net/hiking-in-norway/ Photo 2: http://www.flickr.com/photos/ the69th/6741532589/ Photo 3, 5, 6: www.ohpioneer.com Photo 4: **original content* AROUND THE WORLD STORY Text: **original content** + quotes from www. kienlam.net Photos: Kien Lam, www.kienlam.net ANA CABALIERO STORY Text: Nina Hüpen-Bestendonk, http://www.travelettes.net/through-the-eyes-of-ana-cabaleiro/ Photos: Ana Cabaliero, http://www.travelettes.net/ through-the-eyes-of-ana-cabaleiro/ HAITI STORY Text: **original content** Background 1: **original content** Background 2: http://www.google.com/imgres?h l=en&sa=X&biw=1228&bih=625&tbm=isch&prm d=imvns&tbnid=7sgE8EwE30l4dM:&imgrefurl=ht tp://cherylbriard.blogspot.com/2011/02/exquisite-
art-of-haiti.html&docid=UpVz4K5VzlNAcM&imgu rl=http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_8V406puv4io/TUxldg0dc8I/AAAAAAAABA4/hHm0GV7Kwa0/s1600/ haitian%25252Bart.jpg&w=1260&h=1600&ei=Yq WGT52vIeaR8AH03uHDCA&zoom=1&iact=rc&du r=202&sig=111742931037662417023&page=2& tbnh=146&tbnw=115&start=21&ndsp=28&ved= 1t:429,r:2,s:21,i:147&tx=67&ty=69 Background 3: **original content* Background 4: http://www.google.com/imgres?hl= en&biw=1228&bih=625&tbm=isch&tbnid=7ZtqQ l8V3QUEyM:&imgrefurl=http://www.rebeccarousseau.com/&docid=LEyaCUYyNEjFPM&imgurl=ht tp://www.rebeccarousseau.com/images/Sunrise.jp g&w=1021&h=1024&ei=LaaGT46MEOG98AHFxJi8C A&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=129&vpy=282&dur=238 &hovh=150&hovw=150&tx=79&ty=101&sig=11174 2931037662417023&page=1&tbnh=145&tbnw=14 5&start=0&ndsp=22&ved=1t:429,r:7,s:0,i:83 Background 5: **original content** Background 6: http://www.google.com/imgres? hl=en&sa=X&biw=1228&bih=625&tbm=isch&t bnid=-tto-nqg6ZkAGM:&imgrefurl=http://www. haitianartonline.com/haitian_art_online_info.php %3Fpainting%3D13&docid=O1Cq_41vHvkDOM&i mgurl=http://www.haitianartonline.com/paintings/ small_birds_in_flowers.jpg&w=800&h=1062&ei=xq WGT4vUEaeb8AGW_bi0CA&zoom=1&iact=rc&dur= 317&sig=111742931037662417023&page=2&tbnh =137&tbnw=104&start=21&ndsp=28&ved=1t:429,r :7,s:21,i:220&tx=34&ty=51 Photos: **original content** DESERT STORY Text & Photos: Robin Baker, http://www.nomadtracks.org/blog/ Watercolors: Maddie Kinast, BSU student CONNECT OPENER Photo: Laura D’Art, http://www.kinfolkmag.com/ gallery/portland-dinner/13116589 CAMINO BREAKFAST STORY: Photo 1: http://gospain.about.com/od/caminodesantiago/ig/Camino-de-Santiago-Day-1.-7x4/ Camino-de-Santiago-Day-1.-7xK.htm Photo 2: http://www.etsy.com/listing/73458420/ italy-photograph-tuscan-decor-sunny-spot Photo 3: www.ohpioneer.com Photo 4: http://simplyrecipes.com/recipes/persimmon_pomegranate_fruit_salad/ Text: Andrew McCarthy, http://travel.nationalgeographic.com/travel/international-foods/spanishbrunch-camino-de-santiago/ WORLD-CHANGING ART STORY: Text & photos: http://www.travelettes.net/worldchanging-street-art/
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SAFETY STORY Text: Ina Fischer, http://www.travelettes.net/10safety-tips-for-travelers/ Photo 1: http://www.google.de/ imgres?imgurl=http://sav3mys0ul.tumblr.com/ photo/1280/5598190947/1/tumblr_ll4yhoUh6 X1qay2gr&imgrefurl=http://sav3mys0ul.tumblr. com/post/5598190947/taxicab-confessions-byirenas&usg=__NcK3wCxY0L9I6xuTafEQEhjoI4k=&h =680&w=680&sz=110&hl=de&start=0&zoom=1&tb nid=DngbjyXMWplroM:&tbnh=118&tbnw=119&ei= gvFMTvjMLafm4QS8uvnEBw&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dtaxi%2Bcab%2Btumblr%26um%3D1%26hl%3D
de%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:de :official%26biw%3D1366%26bih%3D575%26tbs% 3Disz:lt,islt:vga%26tbm%3Disch&um=1&itbs=1&iac t=rc&dur=228&page=1&ndsp=29&ved=1t:429,r:25 ,s:0&tx=58&ty=38 Photo 2: www.ohpioneer.com Photo 3: http://camera-girl.tumblr.com/ post/1255115532/via-devilllle Photo 4: S. Williams, http://www.flickr.com/photos/66058606@N07/6030830679/in/photostream