FA S H I O N A DARKER SHADE OF ROMANCE
FA S H I O N
VOIR LOVES
VOIR LOVES
Winter ‘15-16 - 2 cover issue
WINTER SEASON
at a glance
2015-2016
VOIR LOVES
Editor’s Letter Welcome to Winter ‘15-16 as we consciously ‘wrap up’ for the time of year. As I write, festivities are in the air, yet the fashion locomotive just keeps on rolling. We are paying a ‘cool’ homage to the trend which wove its tentacles throughout the runways of Autumn/Winter, “Gothic Romance”. We saw designers take a walk to the dark side, with Givenchy, Valentino, Christopher Kane and Giles Deacon all championing the dark romantic trend of the season. Moody lace and high ruffle necklines dominated the runways, with victorian frills and a mournful mood coming together to create a darkly decedent theme for the winter. It’s safe to say the British High Street has also fallen under the spell of the designers, with stores boasting sheer fabrics, embellishment and floor-skimming lengths. So how to pull off this look without appearing like Queen Victoria in mourning? Sit back and relax whilst our editorial team gives you an insightful guide on how to master this bewitching trend, starting with “Meet me in the middle.” Emotions have been running deep at Voir HQ, so we’ve tapped into our inner wife and vamp to create our very own dark romantic editorial. Our trend writers have been extremely busy this season. Sarah Holden delivers a decisive report on why our wardrobes will be going ‘back to black’, Kat Evans shares the essence of why Riccardo Tisci’s Givenchy collection is cream of the fashion crop, and Hannah Oulton presents a masterclass from the House of Saint Laurent, revealing just how provocative Mr. Slimane can be. We also caught up with our favourite style guru Alexa Chung. Instantly falling under her charm,
we knew it was time for her to grace the cover of Voir Fashion magazine. As model-turnedpresenter-turned-writer-turned-designer, Alexa Chung is that rare specimen of an icon who so effortlessly triumphs at any challenge she turns her hand to. And no dark romantic fashion tale is complete without the God of dark romance himself, Giles Deacon. We spent an evening with Giles to find out how he went from humble student to forecasting fashion trends for Tom Ford, and the international brand he fronts today. Speaking of Ford, just a few minutes in the presence of this brand’s cosmetics, and you will see why the Tom Ford NOIR palette is a must for your winter cosmetic bag. Pause for a moment and allow our beauty writer Louise Fisher to cleverly take you on board the fashion carriage to your very own magical fantasy. So yes, we have more than a few must-read beauty articles and trends to keep your beauty game ‘on fleek’ this winter. And over to lifestyle. Our team has been busy researching the Art worlds’s inner sanctum to bring you London’s latest offering in contemporary art - namely an exhibition curated by the inimitable Damien Hirst. We have gone ‘In Focus’ on more than one occasion, present some fashion and beauty editorials of the highest calibre, and last but not least, welcome the presence and insights from Melissa Woodside, our rising star friend. I think I have given away more than enough! It’s now time for you to be Voired! Jyoti Matoo Email; Jm@Voirfashion.co.uk Twitter @Voir_Fashion
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An introduction to the trend’s influences by Bonnie Bartlett.
A resurgence of the trend ‘Gothic Romance’ welcomed moody lace, high ruffle necklines, velvet and dusky tulle on the runway this season, thanks to designers like Alexander McQueen, Valentino and Alberta Ferretti. Artists tapped into historical pieces and references of the Victorian era, while remaining thoroughly modern. Contrary to popular belief, the Gothic style didn’t acquire inspiration from the morbid or sinful, but rather in the romanticism of the Victorian period in the 19th century. Romanticism describes a movement in art, literature and music that signifies freedom of expression, along with profound connections with the past, often revisiting historical tales in art, writing and fashion.
The British writings of Sir Walter Scott and Lord Byron in the 1800’s helped popularise a desire for a more romantic image, resulting in a snobbish attraction for all things English, cultivated and sophisticated. During this period, long pointed corsets became a necessity, along with billowing beret sleeves, full Italian quilting, frill skirts, and hats ornately trimmed with feathers, ribbons or bows. An example of Victorian Gothic themes in fashion today are heavily featured in Alexander McQueen’s collections. McQueen’s historical references are vividly displayed, as he was particularly inspired by the 19th century, combining elements of horror
and romance, whilst reflecting relationships such as life and death, lightness and darkness, despondency and beauty. ‘People find my things sometimes aggressive. But I don’t see it as aggressive. I see it as romantic, dealing with a dark side of personality’Alexander McQueen. Dark romanticism seen in films captures a natural attraction to the shadows and darkness of the cinema, where the natural world is bleak, decaying and mysterious. Extreme, powerful emotions are exposed, often portraying individuals prone to sin and self-destruction, showing their failed attempts to make changes for the better.
Classics such as Dracula, Wuthering Heights, The Legend of Sleepy Hollow and 2015’s Crimson Peak, all illustrate these aspects and characteristics. This is a trend which dates back further than the 19th Century, and even to this day we see the dark romantic ambiance greatly feature in fashion, literature and film to name a few. The success of this movement relies on the fact that the human psyche is attracted in a subtle way to fear, mystery and tragedy. Initials BB
Image Š catwalking.com
Illustration Š Stina Persson represented by kokoartagency.com
A Voir Creative Production Starring Tiffany Sanderson (Boss Models) as Isabella Taliah Sanderson (Boss Models) as Valentina Adam Ullah (Boss Models) as Laurent Shot on location at The Malmaison Hotel, Leeds, UK Art Direction & Photography: Luke Walwyn Art Direction & Styling: Jyoti Matoo MUA: Stacey Borg Hair Stylist: Kymberley Jefferson (CRC Salon) Menswear Stylist: Carl Denbigh (Topman) Styling Assistant: Emily Carr  Styling Assistant: Rachel Langan MUA Assistant: Kim Coleman Prop sourcing: Nico Duncan Â
The Vixen - Sophisticated | Wealthy | Scheming
The Player - Handsome | Charming | Successful
The IngĂŠnue - Attractive | Modern | Free-Spirited
But who is the victor Isabella or Laurent?
Isabella wears: Julianna Red lace wrap dress - Diane von Furstenberg £460.00 Harvey Nichols Anouk Silver coarse glitter pointy toe pumps, Jimmy Choo, £425.00 Harvey Nichols Laurent wears: Dolce & Gabbana Black stretch cotton shirt £230.00 Harvey Nichols Dolce & Gabbana Black slim-leg stretch cotton trousers - £375.00 Harvey Nichols
Did you really think you knew me Laurent?
Laurent wears: Tiger of Sweden Evert Extra-slim blazer in velvet stretch - £400.00 Harvey Nichols Dolce & Gabbana Black stretch cotton shirt - £230.00 Harvey Nichols Dolce & Gabbana Black slim-leg stretch cotton trousers - £375.00 Harvey Nichols Valentina wears: Embellished neat fit latex jacket - £2120 Holly Fulton AW’15 Floor length Embellished evening gown - silk organza - £2915.00 Holly Fulton AW’15 Isabella wears: Asayva mulberry Silk gown, Amanda Wakeley, £995.00 Harvey Nichols
Laurent: Premium black textured skinny fit tuxedo suit - ÂŁ160.00: Topman Premium long sleeve white shirt: Topman Valentina: Soft velvet bra: Topshop Velvet high-waisted knickers: Topshop Ruffle feather tie sandals from a selection at Topshop Coat: Stylists own
Valentina senses shadows in her midst.
Valentina: Cut out metallic dress, Sandro, £260.00 Harvey Nichols Embroidered lurex knit jacket, Maje, £369.00 Harvey Nichols Laurent: Delta Hairsheep leather classic driving gloves Harvey Nichols Degrade Wool coat - £410.00 Armani Exchange Super slim stretch cotton shirt Armani Exchange £75.50 Black cotton cargo pant - £120.00 Armani Exchange Plastic Aviator sunglasses £85.00 Armani Exchange
Nothing will come between us Valentina.
Isabella: Sleeveless faux fur hybrid coat, £79.00 Topshop Green sequin bodycon dress, River Island, £65.00 Black over the knee heeled boots, £120.00 River Island Laurent: Phillip Plein Black biker coat £1600.00 Harvey Nichols Dolce & Gabbana Black stretch cotton shirt - £230.00 Harvey Nichols Dolce & Gabbana Wool seam detail stretch trousers - £575.00 Harvey Nichols Dolce & Gabbana Monochrome skull-print silk scarf - £265.00 Harvey Nichols Alexander McQueen folded leopard skull umbrella - £325.00 Harvey Nichols Valentina: Cut out metallic dress, Sandro £260.00 Harvey Nichols Embroidered lurex knit jacket, Maje, £369.00 Harvey Nichols Ruby mini glitter bag Jimmy Choo, £450.00 Harvey Nichols
Did you really think you knew me Isabella?
Isabella: Harrison gold open-back lamé mini dress - Alice + Olivia £285.00 Harvey Nichols Kidman gold embellished silk jacket - Alice + Olivia £855.00 Harvey Nichols Valentina: Zeal black stretch cady gown Roksanda £1,190.00 Harvey Nichols
The stakes are high, there is no margin for error.
Dolce & Gabbana Black moire velvet tuxedo jacket - £1,850.00 Harvey Nichols Dolce & Gabbana Black stretch cotton shirt - £230.00 Harvey Nichols Dolce & Gabbana Wool seam detail stretch trousers - £575.00 Harvey Nichols
Revenge is a dish best served cold.
Isabella: Studded stretch-knit dress, Roberto Cavalli, £1,140.00 Selfridges Valentina: High neck chainmail bodycon dress £45.00 Topshop, Silver barely there heeled sandals, £50.00 River Island.
Isabella: Janis off white georgette blouse, Alice + Olivia, £265.00 Harvey Nichols Flutter black wide-leg satin trousers, Alice + Olivia, £325.00 Harvey Nichols Laurent: Premium 100% merino burgundy roll neck sweater - Topman Ultra skinny black trouser Topman Black leather biker jacket £180.00 Topman
You are going to wish you had never met me.
They are going to wish they had never met ME!
Valentina: Katja black floral jacquard dress, Erdem, £1390.00 Harvey Nichols Daysha perforated glitter suede dorsay pumps, Jimmy Choo, £550.00 Harvey Nichols Coat - Stylists Own Isabella: Sheer-detail lace and mesh top, Self Portrait, £160.00 Selfridges Arabesque embroidered skirt, Self Portrait, £185.00 Selfridges Laurent: Premium velvet blazer - £85.00 Topman. Ultra skinny black trouser and Premium long sleeve white shirt Topman Black velvet zig zag loafers £65.00 Topman
Illustration Š Stina Persson represented by kokoartagency.com
VOIR LOVES
VOIR LOVES
by Katherine Evans
There’s a serious clash of cultures running throughout the Givenchy Autumn/Winter 2015 collection, yet magically it works. The deep, brooding aura of mourning in Victorian highsociety, juxtaposed with the look and style of South American Chola girl gangs, creates the embodiment of an enchantingly commanding spirit, compelling onlookers to TAKE NOTICE!. A captivating air of mysterious seduction emanates everywhere you look, from the clothes, to the models, to the backdrop of the Paris show. It’s enigmatic, it’s romantic, it’s moody – the epitome of ‘Gothic Romance’ in a collection. From the heavy fabrics, furs and vamp-tastic colour palette of black, deep reds and blues; through delicate chiffons and accents of velvet bows; to the intricate brocade patterns adorning the gowns, we experience the innate femininity created by Givenchy, only this time with an added assertion of power. These clothes mean business. From the ornate corsetry to the wispy frills, we are lavished with all of the period features, but with a modern twist. One would not have expected low cut blouses and thigh slits to have graced the Victorian high streets I hasten to add! Structure and waist detailing are central to Tisci’s collection, cinched in and highlighting the female form across fitted jackets, long skirted coats and sheer panelled dresses. It’s demure yet muted, and it speaks volumes. The pop of a single nude-coloured outfit, adorned with delicate ruffles and finished with a drape of luxurious fur, reminds us that Givenchy knows how to take charge of our wardrobe this season. Ruche hems, off-the-shoulder shirts and beaded diaphanous gowns give a new edge to feminine glamour, ruffling a few feathers with the only print of the collection, in the form of regal peacock. It is all too clear that Riccardo Tisci is a doyen in the appreciation of femininity today.
And if more attitude is something that you crave, hone in on the masterpiece that is each individual model’s bejewelled face. Decorated with oversized septum jewellery, huge vintage earrings, and cheek piercings, the look was completed with Victorian kiss curls gelled to the temples. A bare warehouse decked out with retro arcade games, old computers and motorcycle helmets set the backdrop for the show, enticing a FROW of the fashion and celebrity elite: a scattering of Kardashians, singer Katy Perry and actress Amanda Seyfried to name just a few. Models weaved their way down the salon-style runway, which was accented with velvet podiums and steps in the same rich, decadent hues seen throughout the collection. 2015 marks Italian-born Tisci’s tenth year at the helm of the historic Paris fashion house. He’s commended for reinventing the Givenchy brand and transforming it into one of the biggest and most sought-after fashion labels in the world today. With a long-standing history of glamorous tailoring and the charm to entice style-loving celebrities of the Audrey Hepburn ilk, Givenchy has always been a luxury brand to take note of. Tisci simply seized the reins and shook things up. The clothes stayed true to their roots - feminine and sophisticated, whilst the Givenchy woman was given something new, an elegance to stand out. Tisci’s affirmation with all things romantic and contemporary makes him the go-to designer on a global stage, with the added element of dark, gothic sensibilities. In testimony to his close relationship with some of the world’s biggest celebrities and fashion fanatics, it was Tisci who was given the responsibility of designing the latest Kardashian wedding dress. He doesn’t appear to court the media in the same way that other designers might, instead preferring to let the clothes speak for themselves. And with a decade of powerful designs under his belt, Riccardo Tisci doesn’t need to say anything – ‘Givenchy’ is all we need.
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HiP &RUN
WAY
BACK to BLACK
by Sarah Holden
If ‘florals for spring’ are sardonically ‘ground-breaking’ then the notion of Gothic Victoriana for its counterpart would seemingly evoke the sigh of apathetic detachment. Cue eye rolling and languorous snores from the front row. But that’s just the thing - there were no characteristically blasé expressions and zero statements of indifference following the AW15 catwalk shows. Nada!
HiP &RUN
WAY Was it that fashion’s foie gras were ready for a backlash against the jubilant trippy hippie summer season that continued to haemorrhage into autumn winter, or was it that the rebellious take on gothic Victoriana was just in fact too damn good to dismiss? Either way, the simple fact is we’re going back to black!
beneath. Chanel’s napkin-tiered skirts, doily collars and monochrome palettes referenced a bygone era with Karl Lagerfeld himself the biggest advocate for the period. It was almost as if the seasons had married forces spawning a darkly seductive lovechild - the fastidious alter ego of summer’s freewheeling folk child.
Flick through the pages of any dusty Vogue archive and you’ll find the obligatory references to the eternally influential period of Queen Victoria’s reign; all black, rich velvets, intricate lace, hourglass silhouettes, Gothic influences, black on black texture, embellishment and a commitment to the prudish yet romantic sensibility of the Victorian era. Guarded in romance and mysticism, it is not wonder that the era has captivated a recurring assemblage of fashion’s most influential.
Renowned for his love of all things Victoriana and the cultural fascination with death and decay, it wouldn’t be a true exploration of the Victorian period without a fitting tribute from Alexander McQueen and Sarah Burton’s amorous collection for the eponymous label captured the true essence of the Gothic period. Aptly titled ‘The spirit of the rose’ Burton romanticised about the fragility and imperfections of beauty through a series of delicate distressed lace gowns, crystal-pleated bustiers and silk coats. However, (because fashion always has a little something up it’s ruffled cuff), for those of us who are a little bit more rock ‘n’ roll, well……
If Victoriana is your ‘thang’ then autumn winter’s darkly seductive collections will not disappoint. Take Valentino and Altuzarra for instance - seemingly modest in figuration with those high neck collars, midi-length hemlines and shrouding leather capes (that left everything to the imagination), the collections bewitch with all the romance of a fairy tale whilst the semi-sheer lace works and intricate cut outs hint at what lies
Designers also took a trip to the dark side in a séance of rediscovery trimmed with all the drama and theatrics belonging to couture and the days when shows were indeed shows! Not only did Giles Deacon’s corset-tailored jackets, by Sarah Holden layered ruffs and hallucinogenic prints
bring a sense of theatre to his salon show but each of his A-list models were instructed to bring some character to the stage - hence Anna Cleveland pirouetting around the show space in the most sensational fan-pleated cocktail dress (a level of spectacle one would have expected from the late great Lee McQueen) all served with that classical catwalk look- alabaster skin, deep, dark lips and the kind of ghostly eyes that belong to a momento mori photograph. Capes, cloaks and frock coats were almost borrowed from London street style circa 1860, some more melancholic than others. At Marc Jacobs frock coats in all shades of deepest darkest midnight were layered over long-length pleated skirts, nipped at the waist and accessorised with mink collars, skinny belts and long leather gloves. Capes came printed and embellished, both in structured leathers at Valentino, traditional brocades at Simone Rocha and double breasted at Gareth Pugh (Madonna may wish to sit this one out). At Thom Browne and Rocha outerwear was threaded with black hair, reminiscent of the most precious of Victorian mourning jewellery whereby locks of hair were taken from those dearly departed and intricately braided into commemorative keepsakes. It may have been the influence of the the Costume Institute’s most recent exhibition of mourning attire entitled ‘Death Becomes Her’ that persuaded designers to look to the Victorian obsession with bereavement and grief for inspiration but the evidence was everywhere. Ricardo Tisci was in his element (he has been branded a Goth since his first couture collection for Givenchy in 2005). Tisci’s ‘Victorian-chola girl’ was both the romantic and rebel in an alluring combination of precision tailoring (all of which was adorned with Givenchy’s signature cross), strapless
bustier dresses, devore velvets in vampy palettes and jet beaded gowns, their faces adorned with an array of glued on gems, giant septum rings and kiss curls. Whilst Tisci’s sensual collection of form fitting silhouettes was intensely provocative, Rei Kawakubo’s amplified take on the theme for Comme des Garçons served as a more brutal yet visionary reaction to the ‘ceremony of separation’ where the dead faced the living, symbolised by the stark palette of black and white, fabrications inspired by coffin interiors and actual ‘death beds’, accented only by ceremonial gold flashes. The collection characterised the finality of death in a predominately black lace collection adorned with bows and ornately embellished. The finale piece? A strikingly exaggerated death shroud that Queen Victoria would have been proud of encompassing all the trappings of mourning and more. Literal and conceptual, romantic yet savage, there was in fact something for everyone this season from the most feminine to the most fiery. Whilst this season’s take on the Victoriana trend may be undeniably sultry with it’s dark and brooding inclination, the mood was far more fierce and encroaching. Take note- this season’s widow is no wall flower! SH
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1. Gianvito Rossi 2. Haider Ackermann 3. Givenchy 4. Oscar de la Renta 5. Dolce & Gabbana 6. Alexander McQueen 7. Marc Jacobs 8. Erdem 9. Dolce & Gabbana 10. River Island 11. Alexander McQueen 12. Alexander McQueen 13. Dolce & Gabbana 14.Dolce & Gabbana 15. River Island 16. Damnijo 17. Givenchy 18. Sophia Webster 19. River Island 20. Alessandra Rich
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1. Lanvin 2. Chanel 3. Marni 4. Moschino 5. Saint Laurent 6. Polyvore 7. River Island 8. Celeb Boutique 9. Saint Laurent 10. River Island 11. Givenchy 12. Saint Laurent 13. Dolce & Gabbana 14. Balmain 15. Chanel 16. Valentino 17. Valentino 18. Saint Laurent 19. Vince 20. Lanvin 21. Celeb Boutique 22. Marc Jacobs 23. Saint Laurent 24. Saint Laurent 25. Valentino 26. Balenciaga 27. Saint Laurent
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Photographer: Andrea Miliotti Model: Lada Pavlova – www.2morrowmodel.com MUA: Serena Palma Stylist: Cherry Blossom Post Production: Michele Simula Thanks to: Foundation Monumental Parks Bardini and Peyron - www.bardinipeyron.it
Dress: Roberto Cavalli Jacket: Montana Shoes: Even & Odd Hat: Paul Baroncelli (creation for Cherry Blossom) Legging: Augustin Teboul Strap: H&M
Dress: Jak & Nu (creation for Cherry Blossom) Gloves: Roberto Cavalli Shirt: Comme Des Garcons Stole Feathers: Poolette B. Socks: Calzedonia Shoes: Yves Saint Laurent vintage
Leggings: Forever 21 Boots: Even & Odd T-Shirt: Roberto Cavalli Fur: Namastè
Leggings: Forever 21 Boots: Even & Odd T-Shirt: Roberto Cavalli Fur: Namastè
Hat: Paul Baroncelli Jewellery and Spider Pins: Ma Griffe www.duedipicchebijoux.com Dress: Bitte Kai Rand Copenhagen Coat: Bitte Kai Rand Copenhagen Tie: Kenzo Shoes: Just Cavalli
Dress Haute Couture: Jak & Nu Jacket: Marithè François Girbaud Flowers Fabric: Giovanna Rizzo Shoes: Just Cavalli Rings: Black Pheonia (creation for Cherry Blossom)
HAT: Paolo Baroncelli SHIRT: Patrizia Pepe SKIRT: David Field London Waistcoat and bow tie: Guido Tonelli (creation for Cherry Blossom) COAT: Anonyme BOOTS: Roberto Cavalli
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IN
Ph : © Sammy Baxter
Sammy Baxter bases herself in Bournemouth, England, and delivers a cutting-edge style of photography, nurtured from years traversing different continents. Here we present Sam’s Town, some of her finest work.
Photographs : Š Sammy Baxter
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VOIR LOVES
by Hannah Oulton
The House of SAINT LAURENT Deftly dark hues, thought-provoking seventies accents, amped up sex appeal and that ‘don’t give a...’ attitude; Hedi Slimane shows us just how provocative he really can be for Autumn/Winter ‘15...
The autumn chill looms in the air and fashion once again becomes a myriad of sumptuously dark tones and lusciously lavish layers. As the darkness settles, we pave our way into the depths of Autumn/Winter style, beginning with the unrelenting fashion house that so iconically epitomises this beloved season: Saint Laurent. Three years, a dramatic (and somewhat controversial) name change, a move across continents (and back again) and a triumphant grungemeets-glam signature style; Saint Laurent’s rock ‘n’ roll party is full steam ahead….thank the fashion Gods for that. At the helm of this rejuvenated power house is the seemingly elusive, refreshingly talented and unapologetically provocative Hedi Slimane. The man who brought LA grunge culture to the revered Parisian runway has not only revolutionised the skinny silhouette on the catwalk – which, by the way, prompted the Karl Lagerfeld to drop 90lbs just to wear his clothes - he’s created a fashion cult that packs timeless class with a mega dose of sex appeal. No mean feat: Saint Laurent hasn’t set tongues wagging like this since Yves sent a peacoat sashaying down his first runway show. So for Slimane’s take on AW’15? Pretty much the same vain as seasons before it, with amped up visionaries and wanton desire – who knew, right? Prepared for a sell-out concert, the set for this show glared blinding lights and an earth-shattering urban baseline with the Saint Laurent FROW being the adoring groupies. From the shadows emerged Slimane’s girls with looks to kill and legs to kill for. Figure-grabbing tailoring, edgy, metallic hardware and peek-a-boo finishings for that not-so-subtle sense of erotica at every step of the runway. Think sixties hemlines and seventies plunging necklines, super-hot with an avant-garde twist. Would we expect any less? Oh, and those boots – knee high and fabulous – made for walkin’, dancin’ and everything in between. Saaaa-woon.
Cruella de Vil animal prints and furs, monochromatic spectrums to send us gaga and the House tradition - tux luxe; androgynous feminism is a staple style-must for any Saint Laurent girl. Meticulously metallic tailoring – oh, that trench; chic, sexy and sleek leather in the form of that jumpsuit (is that even allowed?!) and grunge-glam covers every angle of style: unfaltering and unwavering. And this would be no Saint Laurent revelry without those coveted accessories: wide brimmed hats are still a thing - just add discoinduced footwear and signature-print arm candy and we’re a goner. Beauty is simple and bold: a sleek lick of über dark liner and Moulin Rouge lips and those paps came a-runnin’. Slimane‘s collections seem to want for nothing with a harmonious balance of show-stoppers and timeless classics, both set to stand the test of time. If there was anything to take away from Slimane’s AW ’15 collection it’s his undeniable ability to make retail-worthy icons. Anyone who is anyone will adorn Saint Laurent’s tantalisingly tasty pieces… whilst us mere mortals will yearn and dream! Whether a classically chic cape, deliciously dark or wildly romantic, working its magic from dawn ‘til dusk, or sassy leather on discoball sequins for a Diana Ross assertiveness; a Saint Laurent girl always knows her own style. There’s something about Slimane’s Saint Laurent that sets intrigue and desire off in the same breath. Skin tight leather, risqué flesh-flashing textures and rock star furs have us tripping over ourselves to get a slice of the action. From catwalk to closet, this edgy label casts a cloud of imagination and lust into the fashion world’s wildest dreams. Slimane’s raw edge allows individual perfection, creating collections that last well beyond their sell-by date. Stimulating? Provoking? Rabble rousing? Whatever the masses deem his collections, Slimane merely pushes on with his vision for the brand: ‘If there is no reaction, it means nobody cares. If nobody cares, then we have a problem’. Whether you choose deftly elegant archetypes or urban glamour, Saint Laurent really does cater to the weird, the wonderful, the misfits and the beautiful. Attitude is everything and Saint Laurent has plenty for all. So please excuse us while we get our Pulp Fiction on and re-adjust our ‘Don’t give a…..’ bad gal attitude. HO
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Photographer: Simian Coates Stylist: Kamila Vodochodska Hair / MUA: Aleksa Sidorina Model: Viktoria - instagram.com/fotiviktoria Agency: Balint Nemes Personal Model Management Photographic Assistant: Anna Khmeleva
Dress: M&S Brown vest with fringes: Zara Coat: M&S Tights: GATE Fringed necklace: Vintage
Faux fur coat: M&S Black leather trousers: Kamila Vodochodska Silk sequin top: Vintage
Faux fur coat: M&S Dress: M&S Over knee socks: H&M
Shirt: MOHITO Over knee socks: H&M High waisted panties: RESERVED
Hat: Zara Faux fur coat: M&S Dress: M&S White lace top: ASOS
Red leather skirt: Vintage Faux leather jacket: H&M Lace dress: SHEIN Over knee socks: H&M
Silk shirt: MOHITO limited edition by Anja Rubik Tights: GATE Hat: H&M Coat: M&S
Tights: GATE Fringed necklace: Vintage Wool jumper: F&F Black jacket: TALLY WEJL Poncho: F&F Gloves: F&F Leather skirt: M&S
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Alexa by Hannah Oulton
She’s the British beauty with a kick-ass attitude, photo-ready style and a work ethic that puts …… to shame. Oh, and not to mention looks to kill and an It Girl status. Bring it all together and what do you get? Alexa Chung: The power woman.
Model turned presenter turned writer turned designer, Alexa Chung is that rare specimen of an icon who so effortlessly triumphs at any challenge she turns her hand to. Scouted at the tender age of sixteen, this darling girl became the face, the body (and everything in between) of numerous campaigns, covers, and photoshoots the world over. She is fast becoming one of the most popular women of our time. You’ll know Miss Chung best for her beyond flawless style - flaunting the streets of London and New York (and every front row at every fashion week), her outlandishly funny wit, and major talent for bagging numerous gigs that make her a household name. What you may not know is her unwavering life motto of ‘F*** it, give it a go and so what if it fails’; her admirable belief in herself whilst learning to be comfortable in her own skin; and her fight for feminism without the charade. Oh, and lest I forget, enough creative flair to influence wholesale change amongst followers. Yep, she’s amazing. Splitting her time between London and New York, she spends most days working and most nights partying with her equally accomplished pals – Henry Holland, Daisy Lowe, Pixie Geldof - the ultimate ‘It Girl’ lifestyle. Her years of success show no signs of slowing up, with her fear of not having work being an almost ludicrous concept for one of the most sought-after women in the industry.
Even in her teens, Alexa knew she wanted more than just her modelling career, striving even then to style for the magazines she was shooting for. Miss Chung’s image as a symbol for the successful woman grows with every venture she undertakes. That assertive attitude saw her collaborating with Eyeko to create a must-have eyeliner for her signature ‘Alexa’ feline flick, a creation in which she took a lead role, proving her serious attitude toward business.
up for themselves and have the right to equality; what better way to make yourself heard than live and work as you believe?
Like anyone in the constant limelight, Alexa’s fast-paced lifestyle doesn’t come without its trials. Miss Chung however, shakes herself down and pulls herself up to keep her devotees inspired by her words of wisdom. Regularly seen taking business calls on the sets of photo shoots, this proverbial plate-spinner even illustrates A ridiculously hot collection for AG posters whilst DJing. Girl power just Jeans (which sold out in record time by got its coolest talent injection. the way), a best-selling novel, numerous collections and campaigns for Nails With her style falling ever-so-effortlessly Inc. and a spot as contributing editor to between masculine and feminine, British Vogue; it seems no challenge is a slogan-worthy outlook on life and enough talent to make Oxford scholars too big or small for this style-queen. weep; Alexa Chung really is an industry Drawing inspiration from her unit of phenomenon. close (and fabulously famous) friends, deeply creative family and her collage And if Anna Wintour says it, who are of ‘Power Women’ role models – we to argue with gospel truth? HO Debbie Harry, Stevie Nicks to name a few – taped to her New York apartment wall; strength in numbers makes her triumphs and failures all the more rewarding. This self-professed feminist believes all women should stand
A VOIR PROMOTION
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For style- and fashion-lovers everywhere, this beautifully-illustrated book by well-known fashion photographer, writer and outright fashionista Garance Doré, will simply delight. Set out beautifully with inspirational words, stylish photography and that barely-dry calligraphic signature, Doré talks about: “style, obviously, shopping, makeup, fashion weeks and high heels, but also about how to (try to) be a beautiful woman inside and outside.” With a harmonious blend of photography and illustration to set the mood, ‘Love, Style, Life’ takes the reader on a journey of Doré’s hard-earned wisdom from life and travel. Infused with an air of chic, savoir-faire, and je ne sais quoi, this is one to inspire anyone who simply wants to be someone. Visit www.lovestylelife.com/ for more details. Marianne T.
A VOIR PROMOTION
GLOSS
Beyond the
SEALING
If you think you know glamour, think again. Delving into the vaults of fashion’s yesteryear, Rizzoli International has uncovered an arousing body of work from the late photographer Chris von Wangenheim [February 21, 1945 - March 9, 1981]. Gloss, a monograph by Roger and Mauricio Padilha, [the authors who brought you the compelling “Antonio Lopez : Fashion, Art, Sex and Disco”] tells the photographer’s life story whilst showcasing the evocative imagery which epitomised the glamour and excess of the 1970s. Von Wangenheim’s work, although emblematic of the Studio 54 era, often illustrated darker sexual references, pushing the boundaries of visual expression for the time. Risqué to say the least, his photographs appeared in every top fashion publication of the ‘70s including Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar and Interview. He was regularly commissioned to shoot campaigns for the Houses of Dior and Valentino, and his influence is still felt today, through the likes of photographer Steven Klein and fashion designer Tom Ford. Fashion devotees, jaws firmly closed thank you. Visit www.rizzoliusa.com/ for details. Marianne T.
Concept: Voir Creative Photography & Styling: Voir Creative Makeup & Hair: Bonnie Bartlett Props: Nico Duncan Words: Emily Carr
Christobel French corded silk corset with extra large tulle skirt and long train - ÂŁ4895 Anita Massarella White long gloves - ÂŁ35.00 Anita Massarella Shoes: Stylists Own
Ophelia Grey Silk Duchess satin corset with tulle skirt ÂŁ5600 Anita Massarella
Black floor-length sequinned dress - £125.00 Monsoon.
ith fashion’s love affair for all things romantically gothic this season, we turn to the dark side, or more appropriately the Woodside. The Vancouver born actress Melissa Jean Woodside is not one to shy away into the surrounding darkness of the season. Instead a collision of personalities presents her ability to get into character - the initial a poised, almost regal individual with a delicate exterior, the concluding a maleficent vixen with a devilish look in her eye, lending to the mystery of how one can be charming yet sinister at the same time. This indisputable versatility may be the reason why directors such as Howard Ford have described her quality on screen as ‘mesmerising’.
Christobel French corded silk corset with extra large tulle skirt and long train - ÂŁ4895 Anita Massarella White long gloves - ÂŁ35.00 Anita Massarella
It’s not surprising that the actress has recently won awards for ‘Best Performer’ at this year’s CMIG ‘Made in Toronto’ competition, and the ‘Royal Reel Award’ at the Canada International film festival; her ability to deliver emotion from light to dark allows the audience to relate to her character and win them over. Director Terry Marriot calls this phenomenon ‘Timeless. Not just an actor getting the role right, there’s a life in there’. So where is Melissa heading next? The actress is up for a female director award at the Salt Lake City Film Festival in January. The new year will also see her on set for Quail Hollow and the filming of her feature film Vancouver Island. Watch this space!
3/4 Sleeve Cowl Neck Velvet Shift Dress: Marks & Spencer
Photographer : Melissa Miroslavich MUA & Hair : Laura Westrem Wardrobe & Stylist : Mara Brown Model : Katelynn @ Arquette and Associates Producer : Amy Kalbrener
Dress: Erin Fetherson Necklace: realia by jen Bracelent: realia by jen Fishnets: HUE Shoes: Seychelles
Dress: Felicity & Coco Earrings: realia by jen Bracelet: realia by jen
Dress: Erin Fetherson Necklace: realia by jen Bracelent: realia by jen Fishnets: HUE Shoes: Seychelles
Dress: Erin Fetherson Necklace: realia by jen Bracelent: realia by jen Fishnets: HUE Shoes: Seychelles
Dress: Adrianna Papell Stole: Vintage Necklaces: realia by jen Cuff: realia by jen Shoes: Sam Edelman
Hat: Vintage John W. Thomas and Company Necklace: realia by jen Bracelet: realia by jen Dress: Unique Vintage Beaded Drop Waist Flapper
Blouse: Darling Skirt: Topshop Fringe Lace Pencil Skirt Headpiece: realia by jen Earrings: realia by jen
P S M I ES RION y b s
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www.pingwangxin.com
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My photographs focus on the subtle interaction of human beings and the environment carried out by solo figures, couples or groups, the photograph expresses the emotions including solitude, loneliness, regret, boredom and resignation in various environments. My subjects examine their alienation from disenchantment with daily life. I invest light in spaceless dimension. People who are framed by light share the same look of expectation and meditation. Using modern and minimal elements in my photographs, my works evoke a stillness of mind while develop depth and clarity at the same time. I create stills for a movie or tableau in a play, to position these characters as if they were captured just before or right after the climax of a scene.
www.pingwangxin.com
All hail Giles Deacon, one of the fashion industry’s most celebrated figures, and arguably the spark behind the renewal of the London fashion scene. But what is it that makes this man so intriguing? We went to meet him in person to find out. by Emily Carr and Marianne Tupelo
Photography: Voir Creative
Outside the busy schedule of dressing A-listers and designing new collections, Giles Deacon substituted sketchbook and pencil for microphone and digital wand to host the Leeds College of Art Creative Networks event on a cold November evening, charming an enamoured group of aspiring fashionistas with extraordinary insights into his illustrious career. It might be hard to imagine how such a talented individual could come so far, considering he left school with barely a qualification to his name. Hardly the credentials for a fashion designer extraordinaire. But it was thanks to a flair for drawing, a little coercion from a friend’s mum, a homemade portfolio, and an Yves Saint Laurent-esque appearance that Giles Deacon set off down the yellow brick road which meanders its way to the fashion super-highway of stardom. Several squalid digs and one Central Saint Martins graduation later, and Giles soon discovered that the capital city certainly had its advantages to getting somewhere in this industry. “It’s all there on your doorstep,” he enthuses, in London “there is a wonderful atmosphere to get inspired by.”
It was here his tutor recommended he meet this guy; “he’s moved to Gucci from Ralph Lauren, you should go and see him.” Alas, a journey to Florence was to lead him to the one and only Tom Ford. “I love what you do but there’s absolutely no way you’re gonna be a designer at Gucci” Ford had remarked, bruising the Deacon ego in the bargain. So with tail firmly between his legs, the young protégé took to working on freelance prediction packages for Ford, before stepping into a more full-time role looking after Asian licenses at Jean-Charles de Castelbajac in Paris.
Two and a half years down the line and a timely move back to London later, a stint of freelancing roles for the likes of Marc Jacobs, The Face and Interview magazine would result in his pivotal appointment at Bottega Veneta to totally reinvent the brand. And in some ironic twist of fate, his position was terminated as a result of the brand’s acquisition by………yes Gucci. But of course we know there’s a happy-ever-after, so who should appear as fairy godfather to reappoint this talented young designer at the Gucci stable? None other than……. Tom Ford. With a mood of wonder now emanating around the auditorium, Giles seized the opportunity to lead into the launch of his eponymous label by way of film footage. Giant images from his inaugural 2004 show demonstrated why he was a force to be reckoned with from the very outset. Armed with a healthy dose of Italianismo, this man was hell-bent on bringing a sense of Milanese chic to the back door of London, single-handedly, and never before seen in the capital. Only, substitute the Palazzo Serbelloni for the Royal Chelsea Hospital, (pensioners waiting with bated breath in the wings), fly in a selection of the international models-of-the-day aka Nadia Auermann, Eva Herzigova and Linda Evangelista - strutting elegantly in time to the haunting yet progressive sound-track from Peter Greenaway’s The Draughtsman’s Contract, and the rest they say, is history. London had witnessed a precedent of gargantuan proportions. The overall collection left its mark on the industry and Giles the brand has never looked back. It is a result of the vision of one man, coupled with an amazing sense of tenacity, wit, serendipity and the freedom to experiment. British Designer of the Year 2007, featured in Vogue’s ‘The September Issue’ in 2010, ‘The Devil Wears Prada’ 2006 and ‘that dress’ on Victoria Beckham for the 2012 Olympic Opening Ceremony.
Armed with a healthy dose of Italianismo, this man was hell-bent on bringing a sense of Milanese chic to the back door of London, single-handedly, and never before seen in the capital.
Giles has collaborated with the likes of Mulberry, Agent Provocateur, Stephen Jones, and designed for celebrities such as Cate Blanchett, Lily Allen and Solange Knowles. He continues to audaciously push boundaries - hand-burning satin organza dresses with creme brûlée torches in 2012 for that fashionable just-singed look, and scanning in a cheese-grater to reproduce on printed dresses for that “I thought it was a good way of getting a new polkadot!” look. He even designed a dress inspired by a carwash around the corner from his house. King of the fashion frontier or mild-mannered genius, this designer has just shown his most recent SS16 collection at the White Hall Palace in London, with laser-cut organza dresses adorned with fox gloves, prints by David Holah, and a spiralling catwalk to give the show a salon kind of feel. The collection was fit for a queen, with the Elizabethan feel channeled throughout, and models striking Queen Elizabeth 1st’s signature pose. So what next? Who dares to predict what this enfant terrible of fashion has up his ruffled sleeve. With his avant-garde roots, we have come to learn to expect the unexpected. The down-to-earth fashion wizard has the right level of wit and charm to cast his magic, and once again make the world fall under his enchanting spell. Giles Deacon, take your crown.
He continues to audaciously push boundaries - hand-burning satin organza dresses with creme br没l茅e torches in 2012 for that fashionable just-singed look.
CATWALKING.COM
Photographer : Kiko Cunningham MUA : Nikola Syhatheb MAC Cosmetics Hair : Nikola Syhatheb Bumble and bumble Wardrobe & Styling : Annaliza Toledo Models : Images Models
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Wall hanging detail cotton appliquĂŠ Gujarat 20th century Victoria and Albert Museum London
Image Š Voir Creative
EDIT
Winter ‘15-16
Cle de Peau eye-liner
Cle de Peau powder
Rochas
Graphic liner comes in many forms, but Lucia created something truly unique at Rochas. Using matte black liner she added somewhat Sixties-inspired teardrop accents above the eye and on the lower lid.
Lanvin
Eyes were kept simple yet effective at Lanvin. Models’ eyes were lined in black kohl, applied right onto the water line. Brows were groomed and skin was fresh.
EDIT
Winter ‘15-16
MAC Eyeliner
MAC Pro Lip Mix
Giles
At Giles Deacon models’ lips were painted a classic gothic black. Whilst skin was matt, eyes were contoured and lashes left bare of mascara. The eye-catching gothic pout was created using the MAC Ebony Pencil along with MAC Pro Lip Mix in black and burgundy to create a precise and much fuller look.
Alexander Wang
Heavy Metal was the look at Alexander Wang. Diane Kendal created smudgy Goth-inspired eyes and luminous complexion.
NARS
by Emily Carr
All Images © Parfums Christian Dior.
Imagine a collection of elegant fragrances, crafted in a traditional manner using only the most exceptional of hand-selected raw materials. La Collection Privée Christian Dior is that collection, reflecting the freedom that only true luxury can provide.
Within each bottle of luxury fragrance lies a timeless elegance of Dior history, expertly crafted with the finest ingredients, globally sourced by Dior’s perfumer-creator François Demachy. Having grown up surrounded by the scents of the garden at his family home in Granville, it isn’t surprising that Christian Dior believes flowers are a constant source of inspiration. “Flowers are Dior, and Dior is flowers,” says François Demachy, who used floral notes as the underlying theme of the collection. A bouquet of sensual Florentine Iris, Oud Wood from Indonesia, and Jasmine from Grasse, grown exclusively for the House of Dior, is set alongside aromatic scents such as Sicilian lemon, mint and sandalwood. The whole collection is a tribute to the House’s heritage, taking you on a couture journey through the essence of Dior, with fragrances inspired by an individual, a place, an ingredient or a moment in time dear to the House. From friends such as Mitzah Bricard to the homes in Granville and Milly-laForêt, each has been carefully selected because of its own personal significance to Christian Dior.
Best-seller Ambre Nuit celebrates Dior’s devotion to his favourite period in history, the baroque atmosphere of 18th century balls, realised through a unique encounter of rose and amber placed in perfect harmony alongside a fusion of pink peppercorns, bergamot and ambergris. For Christian Dior, a couture dress is unimaginable without the finishing touch of femininity - fragrance. He reflects on the process stating, “You can’t imagine how much know-how and precision it takes to create a fragrance. The creative process is so consuming, so demanding that I feel as much a Perfumer as a Couturier.” From 1947, when his inaugural collection was unveiled alongside his first perfume Miss Dior, the designer dedicated himself to creating fragrances which, emanating from the bottle one by one, evoked the beauty of his delicate Couture dresses. So delve into the enchanting and aromatic world of La Collection Privée, and experience a truly captivating journey into the realm of Christian Dior Couture. Available selectively in Harvey Nichols Leeds, Harrods, Selfridges and Dior Boutique, Covent Garden.
Selected works by Stina Persson
“Out of the darkness she emerges. Skin flawless, eyes darkly glistening, lashes winged with golden tips…”
Inspired by the fragrance of the same name, the limited edition ‘Noir’ collection by Tom Ford will be the trademark of any femme fatale this season. Let it take you on a journey to the dark side, in a carriage of black and gold… by Louise Fisher
The Cream and Powder Eye Colour in ‘Night Sky,’ encased in sleek black packaging, is a true testament to the collection. First we create a canvas of midnight blue/black with the cream base shade, before adding more intensity with the powder. The concept of light and dark is apparent here; a rich, black powder that is packed with shimmering, light reflecting pearls. The ultimate smoky eye. To really gild the lily, enter one of Tom Ford’s most innovative products yet – Lash Tips mascara. Choose from ‘Pure Cobalt’ blue or ‘Burnished gold,’ to create a look like no other. Highly pigmented and glowing against the black canvas of the shadow, the formula is applied by miniature brush to the ends of lashes only, creating a dazzling, eyeopening effect. Finishing the look is matte formula lipstick so luxurious, it drenches the lips in moisture and knock-out nude colour. If the rest of the look screams ‘dark romance,’ this juxtaposes perfectly as an innocent nude. The coyly named ‘First Time’ is the perfect shade to compliment the look, adding a final kiss of colour. As the intimate encounter ends, this mysterious heroine will leave you enraptured with her scent. Bold and exotic, Noir Pour Femme is reminiscent of warm amber nights, wickedly spicy yet creamy; a fragrance of extravagant sensuality. Where will your fantasy end? Let it continue into the Noir…
VOIR LOVES
by Hairtrade.com
From dipping your toes in cold water in Germany to popping potato slices beneath your eyes in Spain, the beauty tricks that people swear by vary from country to country. The hair and beauty experts at Hairtrade.com have grabbed a map and explored beauty tips from around the globe.
In India, the popular spice of turmeric has extra value as skin food, while garlic as a spot treatment is an age-old trick used by Italians. Sweden’s secret is somewhat simpler, with icy mineral water lending a helping hand to keep skin supple. Cold water also made an appearance as Canada’s best-kept secret, although this time as a hair treatment. Joanne Dodds, beauty guru at Hairtrade.com, said: “It was really fun to find out the beauty secrets from around the world – we definitely learnt a few new tricks”. “My favourite find is using Argon oil as a bath oil. I hadn’t heard of this one before, but it leaves skin super soft and Moroccans are definitely onto something”. “An unexpected twist was that most of the tricks make use of natural products that are easily accessible, so we can give any of these a go.” Germany To activate bloody circulation, it’s not uncommon in Germany to tread in cold water (known as a Kneipp treatment). This traditional technique is said to strengthen your immune system and promote a good night’s sleep, keeping you in top condition. Brazil For skin that’s been out in the sun a little too long, Brazilians’ treatment of choice is a breakfast staple – oats. Not only great extra to add to facemasks, mixing it with water helps to soothe skin. France In France, the tricks are all about your approach to beauty. A favourite way to keep skin looking its best is to take time when applying facial
moisturiser, massaging it in. Spain To brighten tired eyes, a favourite Spanish beauty trick is to slice potatoes and leave them under the eyes. This adds a boost of extra hydration with a similar cooling effect to cucumber. Sweden The Swedish like to keep it natural and cool when it comes to beauty. From the simple trick of splashing icy mineral water on their faces to reduce puffiness, to making green tea ice cubes and using them as toner, ice cold skincare is their approach for a fresh face. Greece A favourite Greek beauty product is olive oil, eaten to leave skin with a healthy glow or applied to the ends of hair to hydrate and protect. For trips to the beach, this product is applied all over hair before it’s tied up to protect it from sand and salt. India An unexpected Indian beauty ingredient is turmeric. While we tend to reserve it for cooking, turmeric paste can be applied to the face to make skin vibrant. Singapore Papaya is the magical beauty product in Singapore. It can be applied to the skin to increase radiance and also works as a natural exfoliator as it contains papain. Morocco Morocco’s not so well kept secret is Argon oil, used for almost anything. While we might already know that this is great for our hair, the Moroccans also use it as a rich moisturiser and relaxing bath oil.
Japan To achieve flawless skin from within, the Japanese drink Matcha green tea powder, which leaves skin looking vibrant and clear. Poland In Poland, they take to the kitchen for the surprising secret beauty product of egg whites. Applying a homemade hair mask containing whisked egg whites helps to strengthen hair and leaves it shiny. Canada After washing their hair, some brave Canadians turn the temperature down and cold rinse their hair. This tames hair, preventing hair disasters down the line, and also works wonders on the skin as it helps to close pores. Thailand Another foodie favourite turn skincare product, Thailand’s beauty secret is coconut milk. Added to shampoo, this natural treatment softens hair and adds a little extra shine. Italy While the thought of adding garlic to our skincare routines doesn’t make us jump with joy, the Italians swear it’s well worth it. This traditional skincare secret is said to help reduce spots and calm bad breakouts. China In China, pearl powder is an essential part of some women’s skincare routine, applied to the face to keep skin bright and clear.
VOIR LOVES
by Amy Liddell, Nutritionist & Eye Health Specialist at Scope Ophthalmics
Research by eye health experts Scope Ophthalmics, reveals that 3 in 5 people are suffering from multiple symptoms of dry eyes including eye fatigue, excessive watering, a feeling of grittiness or blurred vision, and a further 1 in 3 claim that having dry eyes impacts the amount of time they spend doing the things they enjoy, such as spending time outdoors, reading a book and watching a film.
Illustration Luke Walwyn
As the weather gets colder we often think of wrapping up warm and taking precautions to protect our skin, but many of us underestimate the importance of protecting our eye health. Late nights, colder weather and cosy nights in with the central heating on can all take their toll on our eye health, with ‘Dry Eye’ being one of the resulting symptoms. “Winter is the worst time of year for dry eyes,”explains Julian Stevens, an eye specialist based at Moorfields Eye Hospital. “Eyes can feel ‘gritty’ and dry, but they can also become watery as dry spots occur on the front of the eye. Have you ever wondered why our eyes start to stream after a cold winter’s walk? This is because the wind can be so drying that our eyes produce watery tears which just run off our eyes. Identifying the issue is a key step to healthier and more comfortable eyes.” • Get enough H20! Christmas celebrations often mean indulging in one too many alcoholic drinks which dehydrates and slows our blink rate so we end up with dry eyes. The other thing that happens when we celebrate with a little too much alcohol is that we often sleep with our eyes slightly open causing a dry crescent to form along the bottom of the eye. Drinking a glass of water for every alcoholic drink can help stave off the dehydrating effects and help to reduce puffy and red eyes the morning after! • Boost your intake of antioxidants – We can all be guilty of burning the candle at both ends during the festive season, and late nights, poor diet and lack of exercise can cause oxidative stress on the body which has been linked to dry eye. Incorporating a rainbow of fresh fruit and vegetables in to your diet, as well as dark leafy greens like kale, spinach and chard may actually help slow down the process of oxidation and have been shown to reduce the risk of macular degeneration. • Enjoy more salmon and oily fish Omega-3s, the fatty acids found in oily fish such as sardines, salmon and tuna steak will give your overall eye health a great boost and have been shown to relieve dry eye symptoms. Try a high quality supplement like Omega Eye which is rich in omega-3 fats EPA and DHA – just 4 capsules a day provides the same amount of omega 3’s as 9 tins of tuna! (RRP £82.50 for 3 months available from www.ScopeOmegaHealth.co.uk)
• Have a digital detox – Bad habits when using computers are some of the most common reasons for irritable, dry eyes. It’s caused by concentration and not blinking as often as we should so it’s important to “think and blink” and to take regular screen breaks to give your eyes a much-needed break. • Be savvy with make-up–it’s party season so we all want to look our best, but did you know that make-up can be a trigger for dry eye? Try to use hypoallergenic and ophthalmologist-tested products and instead of eye shadow powder, try a cream eye shadow instead. For those who truly suffer, keep your eye area clear as often as possible and only apply eye makeup on special occasions. • Swap to Green tea -This antioxidant-rich tea has an acquired taste, so if you’re not a fan, try starting with one that has a lighter flavour and working your way up to the strong organic variety. Research has shown that the anti-oxidants in tea are absorbed by different parts of the eye and can have a protective effect. • Relax with an eye massage - A simple eyelid massage will stimulate the tear glands and help push the oil in your tears around the eye. Placing a warm washcloth over closed eyes and gently massaging the upper eyelid against the brow bone for 5 to 10 seconds is not only soothing for eyes but relaxing too. • Don’t forget your sunglasses! We all know about the dangers of UV for the skin, but it can also have a drying effect on our eyes. Even on a bright winter’s day it’s a good tip to make sure you wear sunglasses with UV protection to protect your eyes as the damage is often underestimated. • Drops drops drops! Finding an eye drop that is preservative free, such as new Hycosan Fresh™ for mild dry eye (£8.95 available from Boots) is important, as preservatives can cause further aggravation to eyes that are already feeling sore. Hycosan Fresh™ contains all natural ingredients including Euphrasia (Eyebright), a plant based extract that has been shown to reduce irritation associated with dry eyes and Sodium Hyaluronate which is known for its hydrating properties, ensuring eyes stay lubricated for longer. • All eyes on potassium – Potassium and other mineral levels can be lower in people who have dry eye symptoms, so it’s important to boost your intake. The best food sources of potassium include almonds, pecans, bananas, raisins, dates, figs and avocados. Adding them to salads or snacking on them throughout the day is a healthy way to boost your intake! Try a new online Eye Health Test to see if you could be experiencing dry eyes and find out what to do if you are! AL
1. Bed Head Beauty
Curl and go was on the agenda at Roberto Cavalli Models’ hair was styled in tousled bedhead waves. 2. Bold Colour As Seen at Alice Temperley & Gucci. Bold colour is still very much on the agenda for A/W’15. Why not take a walk on the wild side and embrace your inner punk? We saw pink fade on the Gucci runway and ice-white winter wash out was the look at Alice Temperley. 3. Gothic Victoriana Hair was big and dramatic over at Alexander McQueen. Guido Palau pinned up models’ hair in a textured mass on top of their heads to create Victoriana drama. 4. Wet Look Ponytail Yes! The ‘you’re running late for work, wash your hair and put it in a ponytail’ look has finally graced the runway! We spotted this look at Stella McCartney. 5. Full Fringe Blunt, full fringes took centre stage across the A/W’15 runways. Featured strongly at Giles Deacon, Bottega Veneta and Derek Lam.
Art Director : Craig Chapman Photographer : Barry Jefferies MUA : Gemma Kimmings Project Leader : Ashleigh Hodges Stylist : Masha Mombelli Hair: Project X 2015
VOIR LOVES
A beautiful collection that pushes the boundaries with cool tones and beautiful colouring. Art Director : Mark Leeson Photographer : James Augustus MUA : Lucy Flower Project Leader : Katie Mulcahy Colour Project Team : Kymberly Jefferson Tino Amour Jade Miles Alfier Pfeffer Lucy Ridgers Emilia Ascua Simon Hall
W O G R C NIN RY O L G
Photography: Tony Hazell Designer: Gwen Reid Headdresses: Lisa Martell Hair & Makeup: Stacey Borg Model: Sahnice Kaye
I would describe myself as an artist who creates jewellery and one-off wearable body adornments. This collection of headdresses was inspired by fantasy, mythology and dark fairytales. I often drift into another world whilst I am in the thick of experimental play. This way of working allows my creations to evolve and take on their own shape and form. I prefer to use unconventional materials and challenge myself, therefore always producing something unique, thought-provoking and fashion forward. My work is predominantly inspired by nature, time, decay and the reality that nothing lasts forever, everything changes. I see the world and its objects through my art eyes which encourages and drives me to continue to create fresh and exciting wearables. Lisa Martell.
Dolce & Gabbana window New York City by Hk
A VOIR PROMOTION
Hirst on Hoyland London’s latest offering in the world of contemporary art.
Photograph © Anton Corbijn
Already home to some of the worlds’s most acclaimed contemporary art galleries including the Saatchi Gallery, White Cube and Tate Modern, London’s latest addition Newport Street Gallery opened its doors in October 2015. The brain child of artist Damien Hirst, with the intention of sharing his diverse private collection of work with the public, presents a major exhibition of work by John Hoyland (1934-2011), one of Britain’s greatest abstract painters. ‘Power Stations’ presents 33 of Hoyland’s large-scale paintings, dating from 1964 to 1982, and spans a pivotal period in the artist’s career. Renowned for his bold and intuitive use of colour, form, line and space, Hoyland emerged at the forefront of the abstract movement in Britain in the early 1960s, and remained an energetic and innovative force within the field, until his death in 2011. On the choice of Hoyland for Newport Street’s inaugural exhibition, Hirst commented in an interview with Tim Marlow, Director of Artistic Programmes, Royal Academy of Arts, London: “The space will set the paintings off brilliantly and the paintings will set the space off brilliantly.” The works will be displayed throughout all six of the gallery’s exhibition spaces until 3rd April 2016. For more information on Newport Street Gallery visit www.newportstreetgallery.com/ LW.
NPSG facade_© Victor Mara Ltd, Photo Prudence Cuming_1
Gallery 1 © Victor Mara Ltd, Photo by Prudence Cuming Associates
John Hoyland_28.6.67 © The John Hoyland Estate, Photo Prudence Cuming Associates
Gallery 2 © Victor Mara Ltd, Photo by Prudence Cuming Associates
A VOIR PROMOTION
InPainweTrust
Hirst on Hoyland London’s latest offering in the world of contemporary art.
Photograph © Anton Corbijn
As it is, de facto, the status quo is … we trust in the rape of the Earth for our comfort. We trust in the death of animals for our sustenance and pleasure. We trust in the mutilation of our bodies for our acceptance. We trust in drugs for our health and well-being. In Pain We Trust – An exhibition in Madrid by 4 Spanish and English artists about pain, perspective, the human condition and how life may be better through awareness ... We trust there has to be pain before benefit – ‘no pain, no gain’ as the saying goes. There has been an institutionalisation of pain. If we were taught to remember, or re-member our disconnection to the natural forces of our own immense power, we would realise we have all we need to be happy and fulfilled, to create anything and everything to meet all our needs and unharmful desires. All else is slavery, or surrender of one’s power based on fear. This is the fearful sleep we are in. Time is running out, and whether gently or rudely awoken, awaken we must. It is time to wake-up! Are you awake? In Pain We Trust runs from 20th November 2015 until 31st January 2016 at Sala Baluarte, Tres Cantos, Madrid, Spain. You will be most welcome and given very special treatment for your pain of reaching out to us! For more information contact Paul Heaney by email at lightpainter@hotmail.com
IN
Ph : Š Frank Garland
by Frank Garland
Take a walk on the Woodside Melissa talks a good film. Coffee and Cigarettes Sophisticated to the next level. A series of sketches exploring humankind’s interactions around coffee and cigarettes with subtle hostility. Blanchett oozes chic, feminine style, and full of sass, and you end up feeling like a bit of an artist yourself.
Rear Window Hitchcock’s long camera shots, blood-curdling screams, and a murder viewed from the rear window of an apartment in Greenwich Village, New York pack this film with ambiance. There’s a reason why this film is returning to theatres. Grace Kelly is insatiable with her timeless style and is a real life Hollywood Princess. James Stewart isn’t too bad either, whose clothing was worth note, even more impressive was his personal character and honor. A must-see for anyone interested in style icons and wanting to absorb some timeless beauty despite the scary parts in the film. MW
Rudy Kanhye, a UK based fine artist was invited to do an Art Residency at Arts Letters and Numbers in Albany, New York in the summer of 2015. The purpose was to have 3 weeks totally dedicated to his work, together with 6 other artists. The theme ‘The Eloquence of the Absence’. rudykanhye.com
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1. Joe & Max for Google 2. Joe & Max - Stratford, London 3. Joe & Max for The Dark Knight Rises - Madrid, Spain 4. Edgar Muller for Guinness World Record - Stratford, London 5. Kurt Wenner - Artphoria festival - Jakarta, Indonesia 6. Joe & Max for Disney - Southark Bridge, London.
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Fairytale of New York photographed by Hk
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FORDFOCUS
It’s the Tom Ford brand approach to its campaigns and communication that strikes a chord with us. Enjoy
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Insects as a food source? Pull the other one. by Felix Laurens
If the thought of eating Crickets turns you squeamish, consider the fact that at least 2 billion people worldwide eat insects as part of a balanced diet. From raw witchetty grubs in Australia to giant water beetles in Thailand, many cultures prize insects as a culinary delicacy. Cue ‘Grub’ a company dedicated to dishing up a host of edible insects, and developing new insect recipes. Friends Shami and Neil brought this idea into fruition after a visit to Malawi, East Africa. Here they experienced a whole community’s excitement at roasting and eating the flying termites that abound at the beginning of the rainy season. But the excitement doesn’t end there, edible insects are an abundant source of nutrients, and contain trace levels of complex fats, making them a viable choice for dietary requirements. Grub currently sell beautifully packaged products online and in Planet Organic supermarkets, and are currently working on a range of roasted crickets and a high protein energy bar. Insects are nutritionally rich in protein, fibre, omega-3 fats, calcium, iron and B vitamins. And as far as carbon footprint goes, rearing such aphids does not require clearing land to expand production. Considering that they require 12 times less feed than cattle to produce the same amount of protein, it may not be long before we are eagerly accepting invitations to feast on an ugly bug ball. Visit www.eatgrub.co.uk/ for more information.
Voir - The Living Fashion Magazine is an online publication issued on a quarterly basis. Issue 14 has been nurtured by the following :
Jyoti Matoo Editor-In-Chief / Stylist jm@voirfashion.co.uk Luke Walwyn Art Director/Photographer art@voirfashion.co.uk Felix Laurens Brand Liaison/Writer creative@voirfashion.co.uk Kymberley Jefferson : Head Hair Stylist Stacey Borg : Head MUA Emily Carr : Editorial Team WRITERS, ARTISTS & CREATIVES Giles Deacon Alexa Chung Stina Persson Kat Evans Marianne Tupelo Louise Fisher Sarah Holden Hannah Oulton Bonnie Bartlett Carl Denbigh Kim Coleman Rachel Langan Nico Duncan Catwalking.com Andrea Miliotti Sammy Baxter Frank Garland Simian Coates Balint Nemes Model Management Melissa J. Woodside Benedict Lawrence Melissa Miroslavic & Team Ping Wang Nikola Syhatheb & Team Mark Leigh
Kiko Cunningham Hairtrade.com Amy Liddell Lisa Martell & Team Paul Heaney Rudy Kanhye Hk Heather Brown
Special Thank You to the following: Malmaison Hotel Leeds Christian Dior Parfums Paris Tom Ford Fragrances Holly Fulton Damian HIrst @ Newport Street Gallery Fellowship for British Hairdressing Harvey Nichols Leeds Selfridges Manchester Topshop River Island Koko Art Agency Boss Model Management Milltown Partners Jennie Sallows @ Kinetic WW Shami Radia @ Eat Grub East Street Arts Carl Denbigh @ TopShop Leeds
For creative submissions and editorial content creative@voirfashion.co.uk For collaborations : jm@voirfashion.co.uk For advertising enquiries +44 (0) 113 243 8165
FA S H I O N
Winter 2015-16
C R E AT I V E
PORTFOLIO OUT SOON