Spring 2016
Revisiting the Nineties
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It is safe to say the ‘90’s fashion scene was the decade to call upon for inspiration at SS16 fashion week. Saint Laurent modelled their collection on grunge style icon Courtney Love, Fresh Prince-inspired jackets made a comeback at Alexander Wang, Burberry remodelled the legendary backpack, and JW Anderson threw it back to the streets by transforming chains into chunky chokers. Scary Spice’s go-to animal print was apparent throughout, taking the form of giant shearling shrugs and oversized sweaters with distressed elements. Team it with wellingtons, thick black or khaki rubber boots topped off with a diamante tiara and you’re good to go! Whilst on the topic of tiaras, we have to talk about Saint Laurent who advocated the sexy sultry vibe, teaming the accessory with Courtney Love’s favoured slinky slip. This under/outer garment was also a big hit at Céline, prompting our fashion writer Kat Evans to go behind the scenes to investigate why we need to be in-vesting in underwear for our SS16 wardrobe. Voir Runway, our new season fashion reports, give you the ultimate guide to the hottest trends you need to be wearing for summer. There’s even a SS16 backstage pass to give you access-all-areas, through the eyes of Team Voir.
What’s a ‘90’s party without a little glitter? I caught up with makeup guru Sharon Dowsett backstage at the Ashish show to find out why we need to be revamping our makeup bags with all things Maybelline this season. Our very own head hair stylist Kymberley Jefferson worked her magic alongside L’Oreal Professional’s Ali Pirzadeh to create the distinctive sparkly tresses that lit up the catwalk. However, the party didn’t stop at Ashish! Kymberley brought her glitter back to Voir HQ, spicing up our Abstract Expression editorial with guest model Bethan Sowbery from Britain’s Next Top model. Could we really have a real ‘90s revival without bringing back the original supermodels? Hannah Oulton gives us the low-down on why Olivier Rousteing orchestrated a supermodel reunion for Balmain’s SS16 campaign. And who else could have graced the Voir cover but the Queen of the nineties herself? Kate Moss! We reflect upon her iconic moments and discuss her most recent campaign for Equipment. Don’t forget to keep your eyes peeled for my interview with Jade Jagger, but for now I think I have given away more than enough! It’s time for you to get Voired! Jyoti Matoo
Editor-In-Chief jm@Voirfashion.co.uk Twitter @Voir_Fashion
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Back in the day (YES! It is obligatory for me to coin my mother’s best clichés), before our obsession with celebrity culture and social media which, by the way did not exist, fashion had a more feral existence where the club scene, music, film and the football terraces had a massive influence on the streets. That’s not to say that catwalks, supermodels, glossy magazines and celebrities didn’t occur but rather their outreach was constrained by the limitations of a world without Instagram. Imagine that!
Grunge Glam Without a daily digital overload, trends had a more organic evolution. Take grunge for instance. Born out of Seattle in the mid eighties, this new subgenre of rock music exploded onto the scene during the next decade with Nirvana at the forefront and with it? The ultimate nineties pin ups Courtney Love and model of the moment Kate Moss, who provided this season’s grunge glam trend with an authentic muse, from which designers reignited that shaggyheaded, dishevelled idol. Hedi Slimane sent an army of captivating waifs down the catwalk at Saint Laurent in seemingly the most ordinary of Glastonburyworthy togs- surplus army shirts, black wellies, an oversized trench coat and
non descript jeans. The real beauty lay in the bias-cut slip dresses in dazzling sequins, oversized fur chubbies and tiaras also noted at Chanel and Miu Miu, that harkened back to the controversial heroin chic popularised in the nineties.
Slip On It would appear that last season’s free wheeling folk child has hit adolescence and given hippy chic the cold shoulder (quite literally). Underwear as outerwear was a clear memo from fashion frontiers Céline, Calvin Klein, Haider Ackermamn and Givenchy. Undeniably seductive these fluid, flimsy silks adorned with delicate lace intricacies gave a nonchalant hint to femininity, worn with androgynous flats, battered leather jackets and sloppy chunky knits slung loosely around the shoulders like a beloved Sloppy Joe. Wes Gordon, Issa and Proenza Schouler also channelled a subtle exposé of the shoulder with precise cut outs in languid summery styles whilst Riccardo Tisci gave the trend the Midas touch. Accessories came in the way of Nancy Downs Goth girl chokers, crucifixes, and chunky flats whilst uncultivated crash and repair eyebrows at Christopher Kane, bestial bases and unsophisticated smoky eyes by Val Garland.....
at Julian Macdonald and blood red lips at Céline gave a definitive nod to the nineties beauty regime. Thankfully those Drew Barrymore mini buns were not on the radar as pastel highlights, slicked back ponies and androgynous buzz cuts dominated the scene. Phew!
In the Club So mini buns and tiny twists may have been officially outlawed (smart move), however, the signature candy coloured dance clothes that underpinned the club scene were back in full swing; a sophisticated mega mix of club culture styles - from rave and ragga to Brit pop and hip hop, originally derived from the guerrilla night clubs, football terraces and unquestionably Smash Hits. Alexander Wang, Tommy Hilfiger and Chloé channelled the look through retrograde sportswear - baggy utility trousers and crop tops (think Gwen Stefani), oversized denim everything and tracksuits that paid homage to the motley crew of nineties models, photographers and creatives and encompassed the youthful optimism of Generation X. If there ever was a time for alternative brands and breakout labels in the current climate, then SS16 was it! Hence the Gvasalia brothers Vetements label, complete with moto leather jackets in Lego colours and all-nighter hoodies. Acid colours, tie dye and fringing, bomber jackets and mesh T-shirts were refreshed for the Millennial youth quake at Valentino, Christopher Kane, Emilio Pucci and Paco Rabanne.
High Shine Whilst the nineties were dominated by unpolished street driven trends, the later part of the decade developed a disco obsession and an infatuation with glamour, pop and all things futuristic, brought about by the impending Millennium, celebrity culture (remember Gwynnie and Brad, Johnny and Winona and David and Victoria) and the emergence of cult TV shows such as Sex and The City, which was echoed on the SS16 catwalks. High octane sequins, in particular those column dresses slit to the thigh, hit a high note at Marc Jacobs and Anthony Vaccarello whilst Paco Rabanne reintroduced the obligatory nineties baby doll dress to the dance floor (Baby Spice would approve). Nicholas Ghesquiére’s cyber girl reemerged under a new guise for Louis Vuitton with metal-embroidered skirts, laser-cut leathers and spaceship-printed pants that looked undoubtedly high tech, whilst Loewe embraced luxe leisurewear, amplified by exaggerated metallic fringing and holographic embellishments. Music served to marry the SS16 trends, tapping into the cautious new fashion culture with an optimistic promise that almost made us forget about the last season’s meltdown. Either way, we don’t need to be told twice- EAT, SLEEP, RAVE, REPEAT. S.H
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Illustration : Margarete Gockel
Victorian summer : Opulence, embroidery and high collars are the ultimate embodiment of Victorian decadence, made accessible in summer by graceful cascading floral designs and delicate coloured lace.
Denim Genes : It’s total jean genie this SS16, and it’s sure to whip up in a storm as denim gets a total make-over.
Latin Luxe : Embrace your inner Spanish siren and flaunt your sultry shoulders Latina style in off the shoulder tops.
Catwalking.com
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The Balmain Army, #BalmainArmy: that fighting force armed primarily for fashion warfare, just installed its newest recruits - namely Cindy, Claudia and Naomi (no surnames needed here). The mother of all Balmain campaigns sees three of the ‘90s original ‘Supermodels’ doing what they were born to do…effortlessly ooze style, confidence and sophistication, whilst continuing to bring fashion into the mainstream conversation (leaving us mere mortals simply stupefied with amazement). Pretty much sums up the Balmain revolution, right?
This holiest of trinities made #thisisHISTORY where they stand: from 45 to 49 (yes, that is their age range, not the number of professionals to make them look that good); these ‘supers’ are showing their younger counterparts how it is done - ‘90s style…with attitude. Shot by the wonderfully-talented Steven Klein, this monochrome series is staged to draw us in to two things: the fashion and the faces. In the words of Olivier Rousteing himself, “They have a classic
way of working – strong and confident. So in tune with each other. Icons, living legends, superheroes.” These were the women whose editorials he grew up with, portraying the real power of fashion. Rousteing explains how this campaign is all about the past, present and future of not only Balmain but the fashion industry and modelling itself. Women who have sustained royal status in the industry whilst developing strong business profiles, becoming mothers and competing with the younger generation. These babes are “The Originals” and give power to women everywhere. And the collection they so expertly display? Sexually charged with soft feminine notes, Balmain’s Spring-Summer ’16 collection narrates a tale of provocative romanticism. Only Balmain would pair bondage with silk and sequins and make it so desirable we would literally sell our own Grandmother to own a piece. So overtly opulent and classically formed, this collection elegantly strikes a chord in the very heart of every Balmain wannabe, myself included. In addition to the staple bold shoulders and clinched waist, delicate ruffles and feather-light textiles make for a refreshing addition to this collection.
Olivier Rousteing’s ability to marry French Couture with an avant-garde style is what makes his role as Creative Director for Balmain an interesting and inspiring one. Growing up in Bordeaux, he knew fashion held un-told possibilities. Upon his graduation, he bagged a position at Roberto Cavalli where it wasn’t long before Peter Dundas, head designer at the time, saw Rousteing’s dedication, talent and enthralling flair and he was soon sketching for the house. His greatest move came with his appointment as Creative Director of Balmain at the tender age of 25. Twenty Five. I’m 26 and suddenly feel career shamed… too late for #LifeGoals perhaps?
Upping the ante at throwing this revered fashion house into the 21st century, Rousteing has made Balmain his own: creating a cult following of super A-list clientele and used those delicious ideas to develop extravagant, bankrupt-worthy creations whilst becoming an Insta-sensation across the globe.
A powerful combination of strong shoulders, strong silhouettes, strong runway shows, and to complete, strong women appear on the catwalk, in campaigns and on Rousteing’s arm. Rousteing’s collections always sing to the same tune with slight changes to instrumental makeup - season to season: fashioned to keep those worthy in the most delectable of creations. His woman is bold, audacious and fearless. It isn’t just one woman, it’s his army of women and Balmain is the legacy he is building for them. Think Jourdan Dunn and Kendall Jenner, Kim Kardashian, Binx Walton, Ysaunny Brito, Issa Lish, Rihanna, Amanda Wellsh, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Christa Cober, Adriana Lima and Isabeli Fontana. Now add to that Cindy, Naomi and Claudia. So whilst one battalion of the #BalmainArmy is wearing these powerful creations, the other is simply dreaming of wearing them. Now to figure out how to promote oneself to the battalion winning the spoils…H.O.
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Illustration : Margarete Gockel
Romantic Ruffles : Delicate lace and graceful florals entice and entrance across the catwalk this season, you’re sure to be enchanted.
Shoulder Responsibility : Reach for the stars as shoulders are on the rise and ready to take over your Spring/Summer 2016
Silver Surfer : Shimmer and shine this season in head to toe silver to ensure you illuminate from dusk ‘til dawn.
Catwalking.com
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Search for Kate Moss on the internet and a refreshing page of results returns. Masses of imagery (imagery of her work, not her mishaps), innumerable articles on her iconic campaigns, how-to guides on her latest style hacks and cover girl stories that only skim the surface of her notoriously private life. Want something that really gets under her skin? You’ll have a tough job. Even in the most candid of interviews and photo shoots, Kate Moss remains one of the greatest wonders of the world. Discovered at 14 in JFK airport by Sarah Doukas, Kate Moss had a look of stark contrast to the models of the moment – Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Claudia Schiffer...leggy and curvaceous. Shorter than the supers of the 90s with killer cheekbones and a smattering of freckles, the young beauty was labelled the ‘waif’ and the rest is, quite frankly, history. She was an instant hit with every designer and photographer she ever worked with; Galliano, Testino... you know no biggie. Her signature shoot with Corrine Day was stunningly raw, emanating beauty in a guileless way. Kate Moss was a little girl from Croydon with a big-time attitude paving her way through the industry like it was a piece of calorie-free cake.
Over 300 magazine covers later, ties with almost every revered fashion house in the world and her grunge-chic style as her trademark; Kate Moss was embroiled in fashion forever. Kate is described as simply irresistible. The term ‘Get Mossed’ is her signature move: go out with Kate, stay out with Kate. She won’t let you go home until she’s ready to hang up her dancing shoes. BFFs with Naomi and Christy (Campbell and Turlington, first name terms here ahem) who took her under their wing when she was in the height of her 90s reign, Mossy caused quite a stir in the modelling world. Did we mention she also dated the death-defyingly handsome Johnny Depp? Like Daisy from The Great Gatsby, she is all fun with more heart. And now I need to be her best friend. Her latest campaign for French fashion house, Equipment, is simply divine. The wondrous pairing of Miss Moss with Daria Werbowy (sa-woooon) is playfully fun-loving yet beautifully intimate. The clothes are undeniably wearable (beach, lunch, cocktails we’re not picky) and the artistry and creativity is down to the models themselves. Letting go of the reigns, Equipment trusted the experience and talent of Moss and Werbowy to make this their most successful campaign yet.
Do you know many people who would refuse Kate, Daria, a deserted island and Equipment finery? Mossy has an exhibition in the Victoria and Albert Museum, a book dedicated to her work with Mario Testino and 20 years of uninterrupted success...was there ever a time when she wasn’t the best at what she does? We can’t seem to fathom it! That Kate Moss contagious smile and raucous sense of humour makes her human, her relentless work ethic makes her superwoman and her innate role of matriarch makes her a heroine. Short skirts and big attitude makes this model one of a kind and one we are proud to call our own. Kate Moss is the proverbial English rose with just a few thorns to break the stereotypical mould; an institution in her own right. She practically epitomises the 90s; with the exception of a shell suit and Oasis...but then again, she was best friends with Noel Gallagher so she had that one covered. H.O
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Illustration : Margarete Gockel
Street Life : This laid back trend will ensure you’re the queen of cool whilst looking effortlessly chic from day to day.
Bedtime Stories : Think all things silky, sultry and come-hither with the slinky slip dress, complete with lace: the ultimate pairing.
Céline’s spring/summer ’16 collection was born out of a desire to reground the Céline woman, to make her feel the sand between her toes and to capture the ability to be exactly who, what and where she longs to be. Sure enough, this season the Céline woman has it all and more. She’s elegant in silk, she’s delicate yet sensual in the must-have slip, she’s commanding in the collection’s balloon-sleeved structuring and she makes you sit up and take note in her pointed footwear. Céline is well known for it’s beautifully timeless yet fashion-forward pieces, always bringing us that luxuriously stylish feeling, whether you’re wearing the clothes or even just watching the show or browsing in-store. This season is an extension, we’re given something for every mood – or should we say, for every trip, given that creative director Phoebe Philo’s inspiration behind the collection was creating everything a woman needs when she travels. Anyone who is anyone showed us their take on underwear as outerwear this season, with Céline leading the pack. Ramping the heat up, the delicious palette of monochrome silk breathed sexiness on to the runway. Deep cut necklines and black peek-a-boo lace revealed a little extra skin against the sumptuous white silk of the dress. It’s sexy, it’s elegant and it delicately empowers – it’s the Céline woman all over. Breaking the fashion rules, the slip is no longer something to hide, it should be celebrated at the forefront of every style worshipper’s wardrobe this season.
For cooler climes, you’ll be looking towards the collection’s sleek silhouettes and structure, the balloon sleeves of the tops and dresses, the cinched waists of the outerwear and the heavy-duty square toed Chelsea inspired boot. It’s masculine, with loose fits and tailored dropped-crotch trousers, but with a feminine punch displayed in the scooped necklines and the demure hem lengths – the clash of the two making for exciting watching. It’s functional elegance; power through simplicity. The models are stripped back, hair plaited with natural-look make up, but the punch comes this time from the red lip. There are no heels this season, the footwear adding a purposeful twist to the clothing pointed, studded ankle boots against peasant-style dresses and heavy-duty Chelsea boots teamed with the slip. The accessories simply enhance the emanating power, the slouchy pillow bag or the structured satchel adding the perfect accompaniment to any outfit. Minimalistic cool is the signature of Céline - that’s Céline’s charm. Stripped back, fuss free cuts, colour palettes and silhouettes let the exquisite expertise of the design process shine through. At the heart of Céline’s whole brand ethos is clothes that exude life. And it’s Philo who is to thank for this.
Since she took over the designing reins in 2008, she has been heralded as the leader of the brand’s revival. The focus of the house has always been on creating luxury, but Philo herself brought a new functional element to the clothes. Each piece is made with strength, power and energy in mind, all with the desire for this to translate to the wearer herself. Spring/Summer is no different. There’s purpose throughout the collection – it means business. As always, muted, block colours are key. The monotone of the silk slips leads the palette throughout the collection, with hints of khaki, blush and rust adding a delicate mix of colour. Again, true to form, pattern is minimal, but when it comes in the shape of muted tartan and checks, it effortlessly complements the collection, with clashing prints teamed together to show fierceness. There are not many design houses that could command the same attention that Céline does through such effortless simplicity. Philo’s expert eye for the most beautiful fabrics, fashion-forward shapes and dedication to making something that empowers as much as it styles, is a thing of rare beauty. Céline brings us excitement and femininity through functionality and leaves its fashion peers salivating with every collection, with the question on every lip this season: when will you be getting your slip? K.E
Catwalking.com
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Hauteline Bling : Get set to glitter with an explosion of all things iridescent this season. Designers have gone from sprinkling the sparkle to dresses dripping in glitter and you can find your match here.
By oir io V
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Tie-Dye For : Exert your hippy goddess with all things colour contorted in a bid to achieve boho perfection.
Ph : Š Catwalking.com
Parallel Lines : You’re guaranteed to be straight on the money in stripes this Spring/Summer 2016 season.
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Illustration : Margarete Gockel
JM: Whilst researching the Jade Jagger brand I kept coming across the famous Andy Warhol quote. What was it like growing up around an artistic genius like Andy Warhol? JJ: Well I was very young and very lucky to be surrounded by incredible geniuses not just Andy Warhol but Calvin Klein and Diane von Furstenburg and people that sort of were enlightening the way at that time for working women’s fashion and jewellery and it was very inspirational to me, I think just also to empower you to pursue the artistic career that you want so I started off as a painter and then moved into jewellery from there. JM: When did you first discover your love for jewellery design? JJ: I think in my teenage years I realised how much I loved colour and how important that was to me, and what natural beauty was. The things I saw in every day life from regular stones on the beach, to pebbles, or the gold that i would see, this slowly developed into my love of creating jewellery. JM: If you could describe the Jade Jagger brand in 3 words how would you describe it? JJ: Exotic, bold, and joyful. JM: All your collections have a really cool unique style like Jaipour, Ibiza, it’s obvious you’ve been inspired by a lot of your travels around the world. What has been your most exciting jewellery adventure so far? JJ: I think as I go deeper and deeper into my understanding of jewellery, and recently just buying more and more pieces of raw stone and carving from that, that has been very exciting and slightly daring. Because you don’t ever really know what you’re going to find inside, that’s been quite literally a bit of a buzz. JM: Do you have any design heroes or role models? JJ: I was brought up around so many design heroes that actually my whole kind of childhood was lucky enough to be full of them. I guess my family have become my heroes. And what my girls and my husband show me that they like within my own collection, always inspires me and makes me understand a little bit more about myself.
JM: And what sort of challenges have you come across on your design journey? JJ: I think people are often prejudice against people who come from quite well-known families like i have, and in so many other cultures I know it’s considered to be an amazing thing and something to be cherished, but I think that we tend, in England, to assume someone who’s parents are celebrities means that you’re an idiot. So I find that kind of annoying, but it’s a good challenge to keep striving against. JM: I can imagine there are a lot of assumptions that it would be the other way round JJ: Yes JM: If you had to choose one accessory what would you choose? JJ: I’d say earrings, I feel like they really light up your face, but i do also love my rings. JM: And what sort of advice would you offer to aspiring jewellery designers out there? JJ: I think that it’s an amazing career, it takes a long time to pursue and understand what women like, and i think that it’s important to start smaller and grow from there so that you don’t make big mistakes too early. The mistakes are always amazing in providing you with information to understand more about what you’re doing, but it’s kind of good to sort of take slow steps and that’s just always the way. So starting in silver, starting with semi precious stones, you know starting with your own understanding of those things and searching for feedback from your friends and family. JM: You’ve worked on some pretty exciting collaborations over the past few years like the bespoke Guerlain bottle and the Jagger Dagger for Belvedere, do you have any exciting collaborations coming up for 2016? JJ: I do my dear, some of the most exciting collaborations I’ve ever worked on, but I can’t reveal any of that today you’ll have to wait and see!
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In Association with Maybelline
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ACTOR
Andre Soriano
Foxbait
LeVenity
Maggie Barry
Miguel Badiola
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Seize and Desist
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Christina Milian
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Fine Art’s New Wave By Paula Chambers
A new generation of young contemporary artists is currently taking Leeds by storm. The exhibition XOXO at an East Street Arts temporary space on Regent Street showcases the talent of these young artists across mediums of sculpture, painting, drawing, and performance. From the exquisite abstract landscape paintings of Phoebe Ridgeway, through enigmatic sculptural installation by Rhian Cooke, to the hilarious performance of ‘Lonely Karaoke’ by Aidan Quinn; an air of creative melancholy suffuses this exhibition, evidence perhaps of a renewed concern amongst young people with the isolation and self reflective lifestyles engendered by a world of social media and virtual interactions. The art works on display in this vibrant and eclectic exhibition however, are neither resigned nor despondent, but are rather playful and imaginative, embracing the absurdities of modern life, reflecting and commenting on contemporary culture as experienced by those who have never lived without the internet. The potential infinity of knowledge filtered through the creative medium of Fine Art practice reveals to us an experience specific to these young artists. Chloe Reynolds paints severed pig heads to highlight issues around animal exploitation, Alicia Cowley presents salvaged furniture sunken into the gallery floor; a knowing comment on the recent spate of devastating floods here in the North, Qijun Li has made a dysfunctional time machine where balls of string endlessly wind and unwind in a parody of the repetitive nature of living. Clever and knowing, beautiful and thought provoking, with art work skilfully produced and professionally curated, XOXO is an exhibition that has surely been a launch pad for a group of young artists on a trajectory towards influence and reputation within the world of contemporary art practice.
Constance Inglis
Rhian Cooke
Qijun Li
Alicia Cowley
Lilian Robins
Chloe Reynolds
Aidan Quinn
Julia Potter
Ella Brame
Freya Burrell
Eve Hindle
Phoebe Ridgeway
Laura Coyne
Lauren Walton Eleanor Brown
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This work has evolved from a consideration of the materiality of photographic practices. These images represent a variety of approaches that explore the idea of surface and depth, tactile and visual space, in the photographic print. They all utilise camera-less techniques where light is the fundamental compositional material. They are created in an analogue colour darkroom, according to predetermined guidelines, nevertheless, the element of chance nevertheless plays an important role, and as such, each print is unique.
To see more of Blake’s work visit www.cargocollective.com/blakelewis
Voir - The Living Fashion Magazine is an online publication issued on a quarterly basis. Issue 15 has been compiled by the following :
Jyoti Matoo Editor-In-Chief / Stylist jm@voirfashion.co.uk Luke Walwyn Art Director/Photographer art@voirfashion.co.uk Felix Laurens Brand Liaison creative@voirfashion.co.uk Kymberley Jefferson : Head Hair Stylist Stacey Borge : Head MUA Emily Carr : Editorial Team Rachel Langan : Editorial Team Natalie Jolly : Editorial Team WRITERS, ARTISTS & CREATIVES Sarah Holden Hannah Oulton Kat Evans Bethan Sowerby @ Nemesis Jamie Joynson Nico Duncan Serena Harker Marianne Tupelo Julien Dupraz Erwan Meunier Tatiana Terrine Lukas Traimer CĂŠdric Lemappe Agnes @ Studio KLRP Malika @ Wanted Victoria Art Victoria Knife Dara Dukhnovskaya Lola Shatrovskaya Anastasia Panchenko Veronica Formos Anastasia Kuchma Paula Lanzador
Miliana @ Richards International Ben Thomas Damien Hirst @ Newport Street Gallery Melissa J. Woodside Floyd Hardwick Luis Esparza Joyce Penas Pilarsky Paula Chambers @ Leeds College of Art Freya Burrell Blake Lewis Hk Special Thank You to the following: Selfridges Manchester Flannels Leeds Vielma London Harvey Nichols Leeds Margarete Gockel Catwalking.com Kate Moss Jade Jagger Maybelline Ashish London Sharon Dowsett East Street Arts For creative submissions and editorial content creative@voirfashion.co.uk For collaborations : jm@voirfashion.co.uk For general enquiries editorial@voirfashion.co.uk
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