FA S H I O N
N o 18
SS ‘17
FA S H I O N
SS ‘17
N o 18
FA S H I O N
For those daring to be different.
Sarah Holden
FA S H I O N
voirfashion.co.uk
For those daring to be different.
Fasten your seat belts, it’s time to be transported to planet Voir and the allure of all things metallic and futuristic. Spring is in the air, signalling the time to ditch your winter wardrobe in favour of some haute-line bling. The fashion magpies amongst you will be in your element as all things shiny are set to be on our radar this season. The SS17 runways were beaming brighter than ever with rose gold glitz and high shine shimmer. I’m talking Marques’ Almedia silver trousers so bright you can see your reflection! Although you might not be heading to the moon and back, Spring/Summer 17 is definitely the time to dress for adventure, especially with so many out-ofthis-world options on offer.
Christopher Kane and Versus had us falling head over heels for flashy fashion. Forward-thinking and striking, these futuristic designs ranged from minimally modern to fiercely avant-garde. Meanwhile on planet Voir, we’ve also been looking to the future, and compiled our very own selection of top trends for the coming season: brought to you in our usual playful manner. Our trend reporter Sarah Holden digs deeper into space to identify the essence of futuristic fashion: this season’s Hip & Runway is jampacked with inspiration to have you cyber-, cosmic-, or futurewarrior-ready. Imagine.
Our mission is to keep you fashion forward, and Voir’s Kat Evans went back stage at the Marc Jacobs show to get the low-down on candy-coloured From cosmic couture to space dreadlocks and platforms that cadets, it’s safe to say designers seemed higher than the New such as Chanel, Masion Margiella, York skyline.
Hannah Oulton delved into all things pink at the Fenty x Puma SS17 show, and brought us back a taste of the Rihanna inspiration that made this show arguably the hottest ticket in Paris. And of course there has been one face dominating NYFW this season, our cover star Bella Hadid. Rachel Langan investigates why this muse-of-the-moment is the one to watch. Still on the subject of the futuristic vibe, we’ve hand-selected both high street and high-end gems in our fashion stories, incorporating futuristic elements into ensembles, designed to make you feel undeniably cool and effortlessly on-trend. Lady Stardust prepare for lift-off! And finally keep your eyes peeled for an exclusive interview with a very cool contender, one Saloum N’Jie. With a CV boasting such titles as Tomorrow Never Dies, Sherlock Holmes, Maleficent and World War Z to his name, he is certainly the director to watch. Read about Voir’s unique collaboration with the man who brought an entirely new vision to the latest
D double E music video featuring Lethal B, Chipmunk, JME and Base Man. Whilst Saloum did it his way, Voir delivered high fashion flair to the British Grime scene. I think I’ve given enough away! It’s time to be VOIRED. Jyoti X
HiP &RUN
Presents
WAY
Coming this Spring
Words: Sarah Holden
HiP &RUN
WAY Regardless of how uncertain the future may be, the SS17 collections cast a ray of optimism over the catwalks as designers delved into the subcultures of past eras (from rave to punk and beyond), revelled in feminist manifestos and submersed themselves in visionary conclusions drawn from Science Fiction, digital innovation and fantasy. On Planet Karl the scene was a romantic spin on Silicone Valley where Karl-bots were head-to-toe in Chanel, a scene Lagerfeld referred to as ‘intimate technology’. Vibrant silk prints were reminiscent of electrical boards and neon lights whilst crystalembellished tweeds with frayed edges, LED bags, and peak caps worn to the side referenced an 80’s hip-hop take on the futuristic trend all set in a giant mainframe computer. Karl Lagerfeld wasn’t the only one looking backwards in order to look forwards as many designers from Kenzo to Preen, Marc Jacobs to newcomer Matty Bovan and Paco Rabanne to Proenza Schouler predicted an auspicious future energised by 90’s rave culture and 80’s enthusiasm. Take Julian Dossena’s esteemed collection for Paco Rabanne that combined the designer’s boyhood obsession with all things space-age and fused them with the house’s heritage; plastic chainmail, sequins and a minimalistic palette inspirited by spaceships and nuclear labs made the collection relevant to a new Millennial generation. The opening look- a T-shirt emblazoned with “FUTURESEX” worn over a scubaesque hooded top. Genius.
Catwalking.com
HiP &RUN
WAY
Metallics and sequins, nylon and synthetic fabrications gave a cyber twist to spring summer fashion. Exaggerated shoulders and cinched waists where de rigueur on Gvasalia’s Balenciaga catwalk, part bygone, part impending (think Krystle Carrington 2030) where acid-printed florals, latex capes and full spandex shrink-wrapped Demna’s new girl. Galaxy hues were given a calm powdery coating at Preen taken from neo-mystical influences that looked to the stars whilst Marc Jacobs’ mash-up of rave culture, acid house and Japanese Harajuku girls with rainbowcoloured dreadlocks, camo, satin and snakeskin was the epitome of Cyberpunk. Matty Bovan’s girls were also on acid- sole survivors of future warfare in a kaleidoscope of raver holographics, fluoro crystals and futuristic seaweed layers that blurred the boundaries of concept and reality and paid homage to downtown New York in the 80’s. Hyper bold colours, schizophrenic finishes with a Neo-Tokyo spin conjured images of Milla Jovovich’s character in The Fifth Element. Spring summer’s new girl is not one you’ll easily forget yet her alter ego was a fiercer post-prophetic freedom fighter worth noting. Whilst the catwalks were awash with excessive colour, print and more high shine than a box of Quality Street, the futuristic flipside showed a more hard-edged runway warrior clad in Mad Maxstyle studwork, leather and semi-sheer layers with a rock ‘n’ roll sensibility. At Coach 1941, Stuart Vevers focused on the new all-American girl gang for Coach 1941 that not only looked forward but also looked back: cue the Elvis blueprints, creeper style shoes and chunky medallions where Cyber Punk met Cyber Goth. I guess the only thing left to decide is which cyber side of summer are you on? SH.
catwalking.com
Thom Browne SS’17
There’s a futuristic vibe pervading fashion this season. This girl is quirky, alien-like and knows no rules. She comes from afar and has waved goodby to yesterday. Welcome to Lady Stardust.
Produced by Studio Voir Concept & Styling: Jyoti Matoo Art Direction & Photography: Luke Walwyn Hair: Kymberley Jefferson Makeup: Stacey Borg Styling Assistant: Laura White Model: Harriet Lythell
Diane Von Furstenberg, Haldie Dress, Gold, £360, Selfridges Topshop, Silver Jacket, £75 Athletic Population, Techloom Phantom W, Pink/White Shoe, £140, Harvey Nichols Hype, Backpack, Gold Metalic, £30, Topshop
Opening Ceremony, Striped Knitted Jumper, £360, Selfridges Anglomania, New Legend Jacquard Skirt, Gold with Black Dash, £285, Selfridges Athletic Population, Techloom Phantom W, Pink/White Shoe, £140, Harvey Nichols Hype, Backpack, Gold Metalic, £30, Topshop
Diane Von Furstenberg, Haldie Dress, Gold, £360, Selfridges Topshop, Silver Jacket, £75 Athletic Population, Techloom Phantom W, Pink/White Shoe, £140 Harvey Nichols Hype, Backpack, Gold Metalic, £30 Topshop
Moschino Boutique, Scribble Front Dress, Yellow, £240, Flannels Shrimps, Faux Fur Short Shape Jacket, Blue/Black, £495, Selfridges Moschino, Bear Chain Bag, Pink, £485, Flannels Athletic Population, Techloom Phantom W, Pink/White, £140 Harvey Nichols
Sacai, Pleated Poplin and Metallic Shirt Dress, £785, Selfridges Athletic Population, Techloom Phantom W, Pink/White Shoe, £140, Harvey Nichols Hype, Backpack, Gold Metalic, £30, Topshop
Moschino Boutique, Mchino Boucle Short, Pink, £395, Flannels Athletic Population, Techloom Phantom W, Pink/White Shoe, £140, Harvey Nichols Moschino, Bear Tab Backpack, Pink, £460, Flannels Moschino, Bear Chain Bag, Pink, £485, Flannels
Moschino Boutique, Mchino Boucle Short, Pink, £395, Flannels Athletic Population, Techloom Phantom W, Pink/White Shoe, £140, Harvey Nichols Moschino, Bear Tab Backpack, Pink, £460, Flannels Moschino, Bear Chain Bag, Pink, £485, Flannels
catwalking.com
T H E
F I N A L
C U T
By Kat Evans
Think My Little Pony going to THE rave of the season in the height of the ‘90s – think punk, think grunge, think Harajuku girls, even think Glam Rock……. Think OMG, I need this. Set to a Blade Runner-inspired backdrop of an underground “Underworld” nightclub with dance music, puddles, and a thousand plus drop lights, nothing was off limits for Marc Jacobs this season. There was denim, glitter, feathers, thigh-high socks, patchwork, camouflage, patent leather, 7-inch platform shoes, animal print, wool faux dreadlocks and a ‘Born Slippy’ soundtrack. After days of gingham, bare shoulders and crop tops, New York Fashion Week was treated to a collection which unabashedly teleported them to an undiscovered place between yesterday and tomorrow, prequel and sequel, history and future, to a heady eclectic mix of all things quintessentially ’90s: grunge, rave… with a sprinkle of 1970s glitter over the top. This was the show of shows. The who’s who of the modelling world walked with Kendall Jenner; Gigi Hadid and Adriana Lima were some of the most notable. All rocked those multi-coloured pastel dreadlocks - causing uproar when these were first seen, subjecting the label to accusations of cultural appropriation. In complete contrast to the runway celebrity-fest, Jacobs with a flair for picking relatively unknowns to star in his campaigns, drew inspiration from his SS16 campaign star Lana Wachowski with grunge styling, delivering a headline-grabbing concoction in the bargain to get social media sites buzzing with controversy.
Marc Jacobs (the man) has been at the helm of Marc Jacobs (the brand) for over 30 years. Previously known as the ‘boy wonder’ of fashion, he has been a stalwart of the industry from the moment he showed his first collection back in the Eighties. Known for his ‘devil-may-care’ attitude and indulgence in his own creative flair, Jacobs often goes against the grain of prevailing themes and trends during fashion weeks’, SS17 being a prime example. It is a testament to his vision to bring something fashionably fresh to the table. Hemlines were short – babydoll dresses, satin hot pants and mini-skirts, making way for those towering knee-high, often thigh-high platforms [cue Ziggy Stardust] which came in all manner of colours, fabrics and patterns. Embellishment came in the form of embroidered patchwork and illustrations: “We collaborated with Julie Verhoeven and created all of these great patchworks and embroideries on the shoes and bags. Hairdryers, castles, rabbits, lips, rainbow colored teeth and a sky-line for New York. Pieces of it are everywhere.” Some are calling it trippy, others are saying fantastical – Jacobs himself calls it his ‘Twisted Reality’. He said after the show that the collection was his ‘interpretation of streetwear’, he’d just done it his way. Denim, camouflage, oversized jackets, hoodies, A-line coats, blouses, dresses… it was all there – just with a 70s-glam rock/Victoriana/ Japanese/cyber punk makeover. From the man who lives by the ethos of ‘People don’t know what they want. They just know when they see it’, this collection is case in point. The Marc Jacobs SS17 woman is bold, brave, carefree and playfully feminine. She can embrace her inner girl and don knee-high socks with child-like prints. She’s a seductress in a see-through lace negligee, yet she can be relaxed in the oversized, multi-coloured hoodie. The glitterati was also out in full force – sequins, appliqué and embellishment are scattered throughout like confetti, adding another twist to this kaleidoscope collection. The appeal of Marc Jacobs is longstanding and wide-reaching – cue Whoopi Goldberg, Courtney Love, Christina Ricci, Rachel Feinstein and Terry Richardson in the FROW. Whilst other designers push the boundaries, only Jacobs could make the fashion elite want to add blue metallic hot pants, a patchwork leather coat or lavender thigh-high socks to their wardrobe. Controversial, eclectic, flamboyant – whatever you want to call the man behind the label… It’s quite simple really - there is no one who quite does it like Marc does. K.E.
catwalking.com
By Hannah Oulton
She’s the billboard queen with an Insta following of 48 million and a fame factor that’s completely off the scale. Some would say she’s reached the top of her game with her incredible array of achievements but that’s not enough for this Barbadian beauty. Rihanna wants a slice of that tasty fashion pie. She’s done as other music royalty (read: Kanye) have done before her, utilising that bad-gal style to make the cools kids go crazy for her must-wear designs: Fenty x PUMA. I know what you’re thinking, why can’t I be RiRi? Well my fashion lovelies, now you can. With her inaugural collection a huge success (did anyone actually manage to get a hold of those furry slides?), it was only fitting that her second collection go down in fashion history too. For Fenty x PUMA SS ’17, RiRi drew inspiration from the wonderfully opulent Palace of Versailles and it’s most famous resident Marie Antoinette; setting up camp in the dramatically beautiful Hotel Salomon de Rothschild, Paris. The grandeur of the rooms were met with strategically placed ornate chandeliers, with the catwalk winding through the venue like (pardon the pun), a crystal maze. So, with a full A-list guest appearance, Fenty x PUMA SS’17 brought us a visual sensation we’re not likely to forget in a hurry. In the words of this budding designer herself, this collection was as “if Marie Antoinette was going to the gym and needed something to wear”. A Rihanna testament to the sophisticatedly-casual amongst us. The glorious Imaan Hammam opened the show, with names like Adwoa Aboah, Taylor Hill and Anwar Hadid (yes, GiGi and Bella’s brother…hot, hot and hotter) also swanning through the fashion-hungry onlookers. The hues were pastel, the prints striking and textures oh-so-luxe it hurts. There were deconstructed corsets; sheer, frill-finished parkas; slinky slips with classic hoodies and silky brocade boiler suits. The men wore lace camisoles and the women wore golfing tees with lace-up Basques. Gender became fluidly neutral in this Parisian paradise, the only focus being the fashion.
Accessories were nothing if not extravagant: heavily detailed baseball caps, strings of pearl necklaces, ‘PUMA’ emblazoned fans (holiday accessory No.1) and models carrying diamond rings – HUGE diamond rings might I add – in their mouths like grills. Footwear was bigger and better: heavy creepers, mules with laces and those oh-so-coveted slides. Ultra-modern, fabulously moreish and worth going into the red for. Not only incredibly wearable (shoes….the SHOES!), Fenty x PUMA SS’17 collection was also ridiculously business savvy. The new slides adorned plush satin bows, the heels were femininely masculine and key pieces were a stride away from our next balance-crushing spend. RiRi’s ability to cater to the masses is apt, street-meets-runway with an aspect that leaves one undoubtedly wanting. With a talent like that, it’s no surprise this bad-gal has set tongues wagging and bank balances flagging. Two collections in and it’s safe to say RiRi is fast becoming the one to watch for trend setting and rule breaking. So just like the French Revolution brought it’s monarchy to their knees, Rihanna’s revolution on the face of fashion may just do the same to us. H.O
By Rachel Langan
The younger, more mysterious looking part of the Hadid clan, has now become one of the world’s most sought-after models, almost outshining her older sis, Gigi. Everything that Bella has achieved in her short 20 years on this planet has come with tremendous hard work and dedication. It almost seems as though we’ve all blinked and Bella has appeared on the scene, but this Spring Summer is when she really flourished. DKNY snapped up the hot sensation to front their seasonal campaign: the dark-haired beauty captured the elegant simplicity of the DKNY brand by posing in striking shots around the Big Apple. Moschino was also sure to snag the younger Hadid, but this time together with sister Gigi, stomping away any rumours of a sisterly rivalry. If the siblings didn’t look like dream dolls already, Moschino’s latest SS17 campaign had the pair dressed in optical illusion gowns featuring cut-out tabs, flocked by paparazzi whilst basking in the limelight. Very little out of the ordinary there then for the supermodel sisters. And if Bella didn’t have enough modelling gigs coming her way, the French fashion powerhouse Chanel invited her to walk in the Spring/Summer ‘17 show alongside best pal Kendall Jenner. Yes, we know, just turned twenty and walking the catwalk for Chanel. Bella has achieved so much already we’d quite understand if she shut up shop and retired, but that seems to be the last thing on her mind with yet more huge designers snapping her up for their equally large campaign shoots. Dior, Marc Jacobs and Alexandre Vauthier are just a few names beating a pathway to her door… and all have Hadid front and centre in the latest shows and campaigns. Not to mention her latest spread in Love magazine scantily clad in sheer underwear, but keeping it ever so tasteful, with booty, brains and beauty all in check. So, next time you are searching for a muse to inspire your wardrobe decisions, your burgeoning fashion empire, or simply your lifetime goals, think Bella. She is definitely living proof that the sky is the limit when it comes to achievement, and can be reached with effortless grace and poise. The truth is however, there can only be one Bella the Ball. R.L.
Production & Photography: Studio Voir
LUXURY HATS & BAGS
Introduced by Laura White
Balenciaga
Alexander McQueen
Balenciaga
Alexander McQueen
Balenciaga
Coach
Coach
Balenciaga
Alexander McQueen
Be seen in all things floral this SS17. Dress it down with a pair of chunky combat boots to edge your look up and you know you can rock anything thrown your way!
catwalking.com
Prada Prada
Giambattista Valli
House of Holland
Who isn’t afraid to show a little skin in the summer? One of this season’s biggest trends allows you to do just that with the bralettes. But if you feel a little chill in the spring air, throw on a little crop under it and you’re sure to add a little sizzle to you look!
Victoria Beckham
Victoria Beckham
Prada
Giambattista Valli
Victoria Beckham
Giambattista Valli
Victoria Beckham
Vionnet Ashley
Lanvin
Ashley
Transform boudoir to boardroom this season with some silky robes and cotton two-pieces. Go as casual as you feel when out and about or glam up the pyjama look with heels and shades.
Ashley
Vionnet
Lanvin
Vionnet
Ashley
Ashish
Haider Ackermann
Givenchy
Fenty x Puma Valentino
Givenchy
Hermès
Fenty x Puma
From pastel pink fringing to candycoloured coats and everything in between, Spring Summer 2017 is about to get pretty in pink. Opt for subtle hues Ă la Chanel and Fenty X Puma, or richer magentas as seen at Valentino.
CĂŠline
Bottega Veneta
Valentino
Fenty x Puma
Chanel
Fenty x Puma
Céline
Céline
Vionnet
DKNY
Céline
DKNY
Balenciaga
Balenciaga
Balenciaga
Balenciaga
Balenciaga
Looking chic while carrying the world on your shoulders is made effortless this SS17 with the help of the Power Shoulder. Think big, bold and broad, it’s what your shoulders deserve.
Alexander McQueen
Alberta Ferretti
Rodarte
House of Holland
Christopher Kane
ChloĂŠ
ChloĂŠ
Alberta Ferretti Loewe
Forget the tight, forget the figure hugging, ruffles are stealing the show this season so, get ready to cause a summer-long stir!
Valentino
Coach
Marques’ Almeida
Molly Goddard
Marques’ Almeida
Molly Goddard Molly Goddard
Marques’ Almeida Molly Goddard
Molly Goddard
Warmer days signal ‘sheer bliss’, quite literally. No longer just for ballerinas, Tulle makes a glamorous statement at a garden party, or provides the frills for a stylish soirée. The possibilities are endless this season!
Marques’ Almeida
Christopher Kane
Versus Versace
Maison Margiela
Marques’ Almeida
Marques’ Almeida
Marques’ Almeida Christopher Kane
Marques’ Almeida
Versus Versace
Marques’ Almeida
Maison Margiela
The future is yours for the taking. Step out in all things metallic and become a sparkling inspiration.
Maison Margiela
Hermès
House of Holland
Alberta Ferretti
Balenciaga
Balenciaga
Alberta Ferretti
House of Holland Maison Margiela
Hermès
Tame down the floaty and accentuate the waistline this season. Yes belts are a big MUST for SS17. Opt for bold as at Balenciaga, in multiples as at Ferretti, or classically simple as at Hermès. There are no limits to what you can do.
Haider Ackermann
A.V. Robertson
Balmain
Matty Bovan
We bring you all the razzmatazz of the Spring/Summer ‘17 shows, photographed by catwalking.com
Haider Ackermann
catwalking.com
studiovoir.co.uk
catwalking.com
Produced by Studio Voir Concept & Styling: Jyoti Matoo Art Direction & Photography: Luke Walwyn Hair: Kymberley Jefferson Makeup: Stacey Borg Styling Assistant: Laura White Model: Harriet Lythell
By Saloum N’Jie
Tell us a bit about yourself and how you got into directing, and when the passion started. SN. I got into directing when my mother took me to see The Empire Strikes Back, the sequel to Star Wars. I was just so mesmerised by what I saw that I decided there and then that I wanted to be a director. To cut a long story short, I became a runner, worked on feature films, made my way up to an assistant director, and then took it from there. For me, working with all these big directors and what I saw on these big sets, that’s what really made me make a conscious decision to get to where I am today. To even try and get your foot through the door for that kind of opportunity, to be assisting as a runner, how did you go about that? Well, my very first opportunity was a Bill Murray film, called The Man That Knew Too Little; they later changed the title to Watch That Man. As a boy I grew up in West London and when the filming came to my community, the local council said “well yeah you can film here, on one condition, that you take some of our youngsters on the film to be like apprentices or learn to make films” and I was chosen as one of those guys because I used to go to a film club called Massive Videos. I worked on the set, I met Bill Murray, Joanne Whalley, Val Kilmer, you know big American actors and they embraced me, and from then that was it, I got the bug. So when did the transition happen, when did you go from assisting on films to directing your own? That would have probably been about 1990 I shot a film called ‘Day Before The Jam’ and that was in the Portobello Film Festival. I won first prize for my first short and that gave me the self-assurance to really go on to directing and to have the courage to take on the leadership role in my own creativity.
Evening Dinner Suits supplied by Slaters Menswear
Image Š Rich Hendry
And you’ve been involved in massive films like… Yes, like Maleficent, James Bond, Wrath Of The Titans, Great Expectations, that all came from me being assistant director. I was the first black assistant director on many of the feature films I worked on and I’m proud of that fact, this gave me confidence at the time. I couldn’t do anything else, I mean I love films - my mum encouraged me, my grandmother encouraged me and that’s all I knew and I just stuck with it. All the obstacles I had to overcome didn’t matter, I just ignored them, and I went for what I knew I was really good at. So, when did you cross over to music videos? I’ve always wanted to do music videos, that was my vision. I love Hype Williams’ videos with Busta Rhymes, P. Diddy - the showmanship, the way it was shot, the way it was lit. I always knew that if I did a music video I would have to go into it at that level without compromising my vision and without being tacky, without degrading or being dismissive to women. My idea was to shoot a video that would come across cinematically. The video that we did together, for D Double E, I always knew that with the right tools, and with the right people, my vision would come across. Hence for me it’s a no brainer; I’m ready to embrace the music video world and put my stamp on it. To celebrate, especially black males, in a way where I take them out of what we know, what we are good at; change them to the Rat Pack - so beautifully dressed, that’s my vision. Right now we’re finalising the music video we shot for D Double E and there are more in the pipeline. I love what you’ve said and this is why we are so drawn to you - changing the script, celebrating men and avoiding the degrading of women. So the Rat Pack, where did you come up with this concept? I love the Rat Pack. I love Sammy Davis, Dean Martin, Frank Sinatra. In their time in the ‘40s they owned entertainment and what I like about the Rat Pack is that when you saw them on stage there were no women. These men, they own their own sexuality, when you look at all their stage performances there were no women shown. There were women in the audience, but when you saw the Rat Pack on stage with their whisky tumblers, enjoying themselves, I found that attractive, I found that masculine. They were never disrespectful to women it was always about themselves. As individuals, they were powerful - but together they were even MORE powerful. For me, in the tuxedos they were sold as gentlemen.
Images © Rich Hendry
This was behind my idea with ‘How I Like It’, I had to fight tooth and nail when I wrote the treatment. I didn’t want to have any women scantily dressed or as eye candy in the video. I felt D Double E and the others’ personalities were strong enough to carry the video by itself. I love women, I was surrounded by women as role models growing up. So for me to do that, personally, would disrespect everything that my mother, my grandmother and my aunts ever showed me. When you see the cuts this week, for the record, you’d be so proud of how you styled the guys, D Double E, Baseman, Chipmunk, Lethal Bizzle, JME, because they’ve never been styled like that before. Lethal Bizzle, Chipmunk, when they came in they were like “what?” - I took them out of their comfort zone and I gave them, sorry, we gave them, something that was totally different. I guarantee you if I had written that video and it was hoodies and stuff like that their performances would have been totally different, the fact that they were in tuxedos and scarves, they looked good and the set was good, the way they addressed the mic was different, it was stylistic. You could see that. You could see it in their mannerisms. Exactly, when you put a costume on you’re a different character, you become something that’s bigger than you. So when they had it on they were forced to be sophisticated. And you saw backstage all those boys having a good time but in front of the camera, with those costumes on, they were forced to be sophisticated and enjoy it. That was something else I was going to ask you, but you briefly touched upon it, how did the artists react to this new concept? They loved it, they loved it, and they had to. It was something they have never done before. I think what it is with those artists they see it all the time, but I think with other directors they do the same thing that’s done time and time again. What Hype Williams did was he gave Puff costumes, he gave Busta Rhymes treatments, stories. He gave them pantomimes and rap videos changed through him. That’s what I wanted to do, to change it. I just wanted to change how Grime artists are perceived. What we did is we took them out of what they think is cool and we put them into something that is great and that was my intention for this video.
Image © Rich Hendry
Amazing, we are so excited to see it. So just to round us up what sort of advice would you offer to aspiring directors from your journey so far? You know what, it’s a marathon, its endurance. So many people telling me “No!”, sometimes no is “Yes”, I think it’s endurance. You just have to stick to your vision, stick to your guns and stick to what you think is right in your head. I didn’t expect to get this job, but it’s personality. I’m very positive, I pursue my dreams, pursue my goals, but to answer your question in a nutshell; endurance. Keep going, keep moving and stick to your vision because my vision was right for this. There are great directors out there that have more experience than me. However, I believe that I’m the only director that could have told the story this way - with the vision I had. A little bar, a little cabinet at the back, it’s very simple but it works. It’s effective, they’re all round the bar, one approaches the mic, enjoying themselves, other MC comes in and it’s just the Rat Pack. You Google them right now, they all enjoy themselves, it’s all about banter. Enjoying it, owning it, expressing it.. You definitely nailed that, it goes without saying from what we saw on the screens. So, finally Saloum, can you let us into what videos you have coming up and what should we be looking out for? I can. So for the record, you will be styling the next three records for D Double E. I’m also doing my first feature film called ‘The Scholar’, this year, which I start shooting in May. It’s based on a book written by Courttia Newland, I’m looking forward to that. Things are really going the way I want them to. And the official video for ‘How I Like It’ will be out in March.
Image © Rich Hendry
IN
By Luke Walwyn
Jonathan Anderson teamed up with photographer Steven Meisel, and supermodel Amber Valetta to capture an essence of continual movement, echoing the pace at which fashion evolves.
Photographed by Inez & Vinoodh, the #WangSquad take to the party. Models Binx Walton, Anna Ewers and Lexi Boling join American rapper Lil Yachty and Kim Kardashian to high fashion into the morning.
Featuring top model Riley Montana, this campaign is styled and captured by the designer himself. Domestic bliss!
CÊline’s Spring Summer 2017 campaign was shot by Juergen Teller, and has an underlying narrative of mystery as underscored by the colour red.
Captured by the inimitable Paolo Roversi, Acne Studios features a group of creatives for the brand’s SS17 collection. Artists, writers and other creatives of Iranian, Iraqi and Kuwaiti origin are shot in intimate polaroid portraits, to imbue “a spirit of openness” and celebrate differences.
The ‘365’ project is the Prada way of introducing a continual campaign which includes motion and stills photography. Shot by Willy Vanderperre, this stunning SS17 collection is presented in unique ways, embracing the themes of Pathways, Frontiers, Stations, Exits and Terrains, across an array of indoor and outdoor landscapes.
Olivier Rousteing introduces his nomadic Balmain army to Steven Klein for Spring/Summer 2017. Shot in the Californian desert, it features top models Doutzen Kroes, Isabeli Fontana, Natasha Poly, Jon Kortajarena, Gabriel Aubry and Tony Ward. The megaphones and speakers add a sense of bewilderment as well as a futuristic mood.
Production & Photography: Studio Voir
LUXURY HATS & BAGS
Beauty images: catwalking.com
The ‘80’s are here to stay as SS17 sets in. Not quite as ‘in your face’ as it has been in past seasons tho’, with Kenzo and Marc Jacobs adding an accent of bright blush to the temples, sweeping across to the lids. Chanel and Adam Selman paired the same look, with a bold lip to subtly illuminate the effect everyone needs to adopt.
catwalking.com
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The Smokey Eye is officially dead! It’s all about the smudge with Balmain this season where Tom Pecheux applied MAC Studio Eye Gloss to the models to add a hint of ‘I’ve been up all night but I still look fabulous!’ Meanwhile over at Christopher Kane inspiration was pulled from the ash of a cigarette taking the smoky eye one step further, and making the ‘smudge’ the go-to beauty trend for the night owl this season.
Beauty images: catwalking.com
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Beauty images: catwalking.com
Forget neutral palettes for daywear makeup this SS17 and bravely bare all. Take note from the runways of Isabel Marant, Michael Kors and Vera Wang to only use a hint of cosmetics to cover up your unwanted blemishes and achieve the perfect natural glow.
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Whoever said the gothic lip is just for AW obviously didn’t tell DKNY, who flooded their runway with bold, wintery hues for their SS17 beauty looks. But are we really bothered? Definitely not we say, bring on the statement lips! The theme was echoed at Acne Studios and A.V. Robertson who presented the FROW to more crystal blue lip tones. Don’t worry though if you aren’t feeling the darker shades for spring as Versace Versus went bold but with a softer, pastel palette. Now the question is, what is the colour of your pout this Spring?
Beauty images: catwalking.com
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Beauty images: catwalking.com
The futuristic space-age vibe was reinforced on the runways this season with top designers Fendi, Maison Margiela, Marc Jacobs and Matty Bovan all applying glitter and sparkles all over their models’ faces. In this cyber-fuelled age of Sci-Fi, what on Earth are you waiting for?
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As Spring emerges onto the runways, the artists embrace their creative energy. This is where the magic happens, this is where vision becomes reality, where silhouettes begin to take shape. Whispering and excitement can be heard outside the curtains as fashion’s most preeminent take their seats. The lights emit a warm glow, the muse takes to the stage, showcasing the craftsmanship of the artist. As the figures begin to move gracefully down the runway, the painstaking creations effortlessly compliment the clothes. This is no fantasy, this is Spring Summer 17 runway hair. We present 4 of the most exciting looks to get you season-ready.
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The front runners Brandon Maxwell and Nicholas K added definition and detail to the crown this season with a natural glam vibe, embracing natural texture with the high ponytail. The perfect look for ruling the office this season, showing who is boss or just being all round fabulous!
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catwalking.com Channel your inner surfer girl using the brilliance from Alexander Wang, with laid back textured waves creating this effortless, sexy surfer image. Grab your board ladies and let’s hit the beach, give him a view he can’t afford to miss.
catwalking.com
Anna Sui took us through the time warp echoing Briggite Bardot visuals; disheveled lengths and soft beehive glamour reminding us of the late fashion icon. Tea party? Date with the Mad Hatter? Or ladies that lunch, bring ‘60’s glamour to the coffee table. Who keeps up with the Joneses nowadays anyway?
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Braids were big on the runways this season with Dior, Gucci and Etam being the front runners. Looks went from effortless school girl pigtails to complex Victorian-esq beehives. Dior put a true meaning to the phrase ‘business in the front, party in the back’ with their nape of the neck to bun French braids to add a lil sumthin’ sumthin’ to your daytime look! Whatever style you adopt, go wild with braiding this SS17 and unleash your inner wild child whether walking the dog or attending the Grammys, make sure you do it in style.
catwalking.com
voirfashion.co.uk
For those daring to be different.
Voir Fashion Magazine - For those daring to be different. Voir is an online publication issued on a quarterly basis. Issue 18 has been launched by the following :
Jyoti Matoo Editor-In-Chief / Stylist jm@voirfashion.co.uk Luke Walwyn Art Director/Photographer art@voirfashion.co.uk Felix Laurens Brand Liaison creative@voirfashion.co.uk Kymberley Jefferson : Head Hair Stylist Stacey Borg : Head MUA Laura White : Editorial Team/Styling Assistant Jamie Joynson : Editorial Team/Beauty Assistant Rachel Langan : Fashion Writer
Model Harriet Lythell @ Boss Catwalking.com Mike Stephens @ Entrepreneurial Spark Powered by Nat West Michael Hopkins @ H-TYNE Synergy Haus Hairdressing For creative submissions creative@voirfashion.co.uk For collaborations and editorial content: jm@voirfashion.co.uk For general enquiries editorial@voirfashion.co.uk For beauty enquiries lifestyle@voirfashion.co.uk
WRITERS, ARTISTS & CREATIVES Sarah Holden - Trend reporter Hannah Oulton - Fashion writer Kat Evans - Fashion writer Marianne Tupelo - Fashion research Natalia Colman - Calligraphy Hk - Research Lucy Ketcher - Proof Reading Special Thank You to the following: Fenty x Puma and Rihanna Moschino DKNY Marc Jacobs Guvna Singh @ Catalyst Entertainment Saloum N’Jie D double E Selfridges Manchester Harvey Nichols Leeds Flannels Leeds Topshop Slaters Menswear Rich Hendry Photographer Rachel Morris - Friendship Kate Pearson @ Fabrikk
Issue 18: Inspired by David Bowie and Ziggy Stardust
18
studiovoir.co.uk