Voir Fashion Issue 19: The Taste of Fashion by Voir Fashion Magazine

Late Summer 2017

N o 19

Starring Cara Delevingne

Behind the Brand

and inside the website

As we transition through the seasons from summer towards autumn, much of our energy has been focused on bringing you a refreshing and reinforced-female edition of the magazine for Issue 20. That is not to take anything away from this current issue which has emerged from a fresh examination of what Voir stands for and the people we reach out to. “For those daring to be different and those unafraid to dream” I believe is a true reflection of the Voir woman. We’ve redesigned the Voir website with you in mind to share more views on fashion and trends. To draw inspiration from the game-changers who are carving out new silhouettes on the fashion runways. And to talk about the collaborations we know that you will love and become inspired by. Collaborations are a big part of what we do at Voir, and collaborations get our pulse racing. This leads me perfectly to our cover story, a fabulous offering from Magnum Ice Cream and the one and only Moschino. We are proud to be featuring Cara Delevingne on our cover once again, this time alongside Moschino’s creative director Jeremy Scott. Read more about this in this issue. As well as featuring high profile designers, celebrities and imagemakers on the Voir website, we are proud to call out to you and your creativity to share your talent with the world. Issue 19 is a leap in the right direction and a shape of what’s to come. It addresses where we are going, and where we have been. So without giving too much more away, it’s now time for you to be Voired. Jyoti Matoo - Editor-in-Chief Xx

DISCOVER WHATâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S NEW

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Future Fragrance

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For those daring to be different and those unafraid to dream

Building a new website to reflect a contemporary approach to fashion communication had major challenges, not least because of the wealth of existing magazines out there already doing such a great job. The first task was to identify what we wanted to say, and to whom, which meant thinking deeply about the Voir reader and what she/he stands for. ‘A boutique publication for those daring to be different, and those unafraid to dream’ became the Voir mantra, and everything began to fall into place. Voir Fashion online would become the destination for decision-makers who experiment with fashion, for strong individuals, for those with a rebellious streak who have fine taste. It would bring them a measured insight to the season’s quirkier trends from the runway capitals of the world. It would deliver the most exciting brand collaborations in fashion and beauty, and take candid looks at celebrity joie de vivre - yes joie de vivre as opposed to voyeuristic reportage. We want you to know when the influencers become muses, when they design their own range or when they flourish into brand ambassadors. Talent is given pride of place under Voir Loves. Creativity never sleeps, and we will endeavour to showcase up-andcoming talent alongside the doyens of visual communication, the masters of their discipline, the tastemakers of today in photography, illustration, film, music and art. If that is not enough, we are inviting creatives to submit their work and share their vision. A platform for the extraordinary can become an arena for further discourse. Voir Fashion is for you, more exciting, more visual and more interactive. Team Voir

“I’m definitely a Polaroid camera girl. For me, what I’m really excited about is bringing back the artistry and the nature of Polaroid.” — Lady Gaga

The polaroid image is a much sought-after aesthetic, particularly in fashion circles. We decided therefore to opt for a polaroid imagestyle gallery with the Voir blog to bring a feeling of instant joy and fashionability to each post. We wanted you to get the impression you were looking through an interesting photographic collection or archive, and thus select posts according to the intrigue you have towards each image, rather than by text alone. Presenting a series of articles on fashion, trends, beauty and Voir loves, the ‘What’s New’ in Voir is designed to cater for the most fashionable taste.

As well as insights to what is happening in the world of fashion with brands, collaborations and shows, the ‘Fashion’ pages on the Voir website deliver news on exhibitions and designers causing a stir within the industry. We feature the celebrities endorsing fashion as well as the style influencers commanding the utmost respect. We’re selectively featuring shows as they unfold, and we’re sharing with you our appreciation for the ‘fashion forward’ level of creativity that has drastically altered the face of fashion design forever. The following pages provide a sneak preview to what is unfolding ahead.

Autumn/Winter 17 Haute Couture week was spellbinding to say the least. These complex, exquisite pieces of art showed that the most time-consuming of all the fashion weeks, really are worth the wait. Shimmering metallics from Iris Van Herpen, Ralph & Russo and Zuhair Murad and retro throwbacks from Christian Dior and Ulyana Sergeenko that had a real Halcyon-esque, ‘It’s A Wonderful Life’ feel. Miu Miu and Schiaparelli brought a modern look with pops of colour and mixed the causal with the Couture.

Iris Van Herpen

Atelier Versace

Christian Dior

Schiaparelli

Miu Miu

Atelier Versace

Christian Dior

Alexandre Vauthier

Maison Margiela

Chanel

Alexis Mabille

Alexandre Vauthier

Ralph & Russo

Maison Margiela

Alexis Mabille

Ralph & Russo

Chanel No.5 Illustration - Voir #5 Luke Walwyn

Pigalle

Valentino

Balenciaga

Valentino

Kenzo

Comme Des Garรงons

Haider Ackermann

Alexander McQueen

Balenciaga Balenciaga Balmain

Alexander McQueen

Louis Vuitton

Balenciaga

Lemaire Subject matter was at the heart of Paris Mens Fashion Week. With designers bringing their edgy and controversial collections into the spotlight of the world, conversation were most certainly sparked. Paris was a diverse mix of styles, from minimalist colour blocking to abstract art to redefining anatomy, there were moments where the predictable became hard to come by. Balenciaga turned many heads with it’s “everyday dad”

inspired collection that saw real life dads walking down the catwalk with their children in complimenting Balenciaga garments. A nod to the art world was apparent in many of the Paris Mens shows, with colour blocking and avant-garde shapes and styles creating a feast for the eye. Walter Van Beirenodonch channelled Picasso and Comme Des Garçons made their models look like they were from some kind of futuristic glitter realm.

Tourne De Transmission

Tourne De Transmission Pronounce

Liam Hodges

Pronounce

MAN

Liam Hodges Astrid Anderson

psychedelic, London has had it all. With shows from Vivienne Westwood, Pronounce by GQ China and MAN just to name a few, we’ve been following the event and collected together our highlights. This years’ event truly started the Mens Fashion Weeks off with a bang, so go ahead and get inspired.

Charles Jeffery Loverboy

This year marks the 5th anniversary of London Mens Fashion Week. As the event came to a close, we were left begging for more as the designers came out in full fashion force, proving that London is still ahead of the game with menswear.Whether it’s the classic or the contemporary, the androgynous or the

Vivienne Westwood Astrid Anderson

Charles Jeffery Loverboy

Vivienne Westwood

All Things Bright & Beautiful Editorial - Voir #2 Â©Studio Voir

Prada

Versace

Emporio Armani

MSGM

Versace

Prada

MSGM

Philipp Plein

Palm Angels Emporio Armani

Milan Fashion Week saw the likes of Versace, Prada and Giorgio Armani sharing the stage week as well as plenty of other shows that eloquently showed that Milan is on form for dressing for the next Spring/ Summer season. There was something for everyone who is into Italian style. We saw colour tones, clashing patterns and clean cut suits that oozed Italian sophistication at Giorgio Armani. Christian Pellizzati’s show gave us a glimpse into the historic city of Venice with the city’s lion symbol gracing some of the garments. His collection spoke romance and reflected a classical Italian lifestyle.

Philipp Plein whose 1950’s rebellious style collection brought a street style essence with nods to biker culture embellishments, tight leather and ripped denim. Later in the week Palm Angels brought a raw urban contemporary vibe which added a refreshing layer to the mix with metallic bodysuits and repeat print tracksuits. A 90’s revival from Versace showed us that the brand’s signature garden of Palazzo Versace print is a long way from dieing out. The fashion house also treated us to a look at their new reworked logo, a show that reflected on the past yet gave us a peek into the future.

Christian Pellizzati

Frankie Morello

Wood House

Raf Simons

Perry Ellis

Heliot Emil

Raf Simons

N.Hoolywood

Dyne

Gustav Von Aschenbach

Raf Simons

Nick Graham

R.Swiader

Wood House R.Swiader

looking back at history and some reflecting on the political storm on the continent. Horan Li, designer of the brand Private Policy, took us on a journey to â&#x20AC;&#x153;America through a foreigners eyeâ&#x20AC;?. Sanchez-Kane was driven by the social, political and ethical chaos. Using art as a form of communication for nationalism, his avant-garde pieces left a long-lasting impression. The fashion week in The Big Apple was a visual treat for everyone.

Parke Ronen

Feng Chen Wang New York has proven to be the capital of technical fashion, where fashion meets function, a real pioneer in the future of smart materials. With brands such as EFM and Perry Ellis whose collection mixed causal with tailored, combining that with technical fabrics that enabled the garments to work with the body and serve a purpose as well as being aesthetic. A lot of shows seemed to make reference to the USA itself, some

EFM

Private Policy

Luar

David Hart

Kenneth Ning

Sanchez-Kane

Bode

Sanchez-Kane

Ovadia & Sons

Bode

had this to say: “The collaboration with Magnum, from designing the beasts to directing the film has been beyond fun for me. Working with Cara was amazing, and being bold with fashion is something I try to bring to life in my work every day. Fashion is that element The famously luxurious ice creams now of expression that gives you pleasure have double the flavour, a tantalising and allows to you show off your perRaspberry and a smooth, silky Coconut sonality and attitude.” both wrapped up in thick, decadent chocolate. (Wipe your screen, you’re The Cannes film festival also weldrooling.) As if this wasn’t enough comed Magnum for the first time, with Magnum have cleverly cast the inimi- Scott and Delevingne centre stage of table Cara Delevingne as its muse, course to endorse both campaigns alongside Moschino’s creative direc- spectacularly. Make your own Magnum tor Jeremy Scott in its witty film short. was a key feature, with director and Directed by Scott, ‘Unleash the Beast’ muse creating their own bespoke ice features the leggy supermodel and creams. The latest Moschino collecactress strutting her stuff down the tion however is slightly harder to come high street, whilst cartoon ‘beasts’ by and in even greater demand than hand drawn by Scott and animated by a Magnum on a hot day. The bags Uli Meyer (Who Framed Roger Rabbit) feature individual, hand-drawn charappear all mesmerised by the Magnum acters, staring lovingly at their ‘Dare to Double ice cream. It is a perfect casting; go Double’ ice creams they have finally Cara embodies the sprit and attitude of managed to get their hands on. They ‘Release the Beast’ with her quirky and come in seven eye-popping colours, and choosing to unveil the Moschino fun-loving personality. collection at the Cannes Film Festival The sassy and thrilling ‘Dare to go was simply a match made in Heaven Double’ campaign, mixed with the for the 2 brands. audacious and bold Moschino collection go hand in hand, both epitomising Whether you’re all about the ice cream what it means to be fashionable and or a fashion lover, now you can have fearless simultaneously. Cara brought both. Head online to the Moschino her own individual quirkiness to the film website to grab your gorgeous tote of course, whilst looking sensational in bag before they disappear. We promise the Moschino collection. Jeremy Scott you, they’ll leave you melting. R.L ‘Dare to go Double’ is the tag line for Magnum’s latest indulgent delights, which sees the Ice Cream brand collaborating with the fashion powerhouse Moschino to promote its two new double flavours.

Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in a trend?

work it girl

Highlighting the unusual and the extraordinary; Voir brings you a stylish edit of the seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s looks and trends from the fashion capitals of the world. We look closely at the trends that will be shaping the future, and provide insights on the leading protagonists who are defining the newest silhouettes. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re also commenting on menswear and showcasing the style gurus who have an interesting tale to tell.

Left and Right ‘Director’s Cut - Backstage Pass’ Editorial Voir #5 ©Studio Voir

Desperately Seeking Sanity Editorial - Voir #3 ÂŠStudio Voir

Researched by Rachel Langan.

Technology has made social media a reality and more accessible, to such an extent that our involvement and relationship with it has made it nigh on impossible to live without. This is certainly true for the younger generation, and how regularly they ‘connect’ with their peers. There is no doubt that this relationship with technology isn’t going to fade away any time soon. Brands know this and thus are attempting to blur the barrier between us and the ‘other world’ that is technology. They aim to make tech more a part of life rather than a substitute to things and vice versa. Technology is already converging with humans as we speak within the fashion world; Zac Posen and Marchesa have created a cognitive dress that reacts to the activity on social media by changing colour and lighting up. Apple have also brought us the wearable Smart Watch. Other designers are also adapting technology into their collections, such as Chanel. Their A/W 17 show circulated around a huge space rocket launcher. Technology in the future will eventually become more and more wearable, integrated into tactile and decorative fabrics and forms. Emma Cannon.

Todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s society is growing a demand for more openness. A trend that is heavily influenced by streetwear but from further afar than the western influences that we are so used to seeing, influenced by those cultures and their nostalgia. Mass urbanisation due to the rise in populations in the west is causing the disappearance of culture and distinct styles hence why people are reaching out to the world for their fashion inspiration. The belief is that culture can be a stronger unifier than a country, uniting everyone in sharing culture and experiences. It is predicted that in the future, millennials will prefer to live in suburban areas that have an â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;urban feelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, with open green spaces and multicultural neighbourhoods. The thirst for togetherness will be fuelled by nostalgia,

Researched by Rachel Langan.

for the want to preserve culture by sharing it with people of other ethnicities in order to open minds and share experiences. Society will soon be a multi-local community, where people will be shaped by the places theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve seen, the people theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve met and the experiences theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve had. Cultural appropriateness will be taken into deep consideration, but the idea of sharing more openly with everyone will be seen in a more positive light. This is the age of the influencers being at the bottom of the social ladder instead of at the top and brands are most certainly listening to what we have to say. Emma Cannon.

Alexander McQueen

Loewe

Rodarte

Alberta Ferretti

ChloĂŠ

Alberta Ferretti

House of Holland Christopher Kane

ChloĂŠ

Forget the tight, forget the figure-hugging, ruffles are continuing to steal the show this season so, carry on causing a stir late into summer.

London-based fashion and beauty photographer Jack Eames starts conversations with his evocative and expressive work. With a client roster including Toni & Guy, GHD, Saatchi & Saatchi, Vogue and Schwarzkipf to his name, he knows a thing or two about capturing a look. Here we present a short selection of his images which stir the emotions and invite response.

Photography: Jack Eames, Hair: Jessica Neil at KH Hair, Fashion: Clare Frith, Makeup: Maddie Austin

Photography: Jack Eames Fashion: Deisree Lederer Hair: Simon Izzard@David Artists Makeup: Siobhon Luckie@David Artists Model: Vick Sirotyuk@Storm

Photography: Jack Eames, Hair: Gary Hooker and Michael Young@Hooker & Young, Makeup: Alex Byrne, Fashion: Clare Frith

Photography: Jack Eames for Gary Hooker and Michael Young and their new partnership with Schwarzkipf Professional. Hair: Hooker & Young, Makeup: Maddie Austin, Fashion: Claire Frith, Model: Serafima @Select Model Management

Photography: Jack Eames Hair: Suzie McGill@Rainbow Room International Fashion: Clare Frith Makeup: Maddie Austin

Photography: Jack Eames Hair: Toni Stephenson for Hooker & Young Fashion: Clare Frith, Makeup: Megumi Matsuno

Photography: Jack Eames Hair: Toni Stephenson for Hooker & Young Fashion: Clare Frith Makeup: Megumi Matsuno

Photography: Jack Eames, Hair: Hooker & Young, Makeup: Megumi Matsuno

Photography: Jack Eames, Hair: Jessica Neil at KH Hair, Fashion: Clare Frith, Makeup: Maddie Austin

Photography: Jack Eames Hair: The 2014 Toni&Guy Breakthrough Team Art Direction: Gary France Technical Direction: Jo Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Neil Makeup: Maddie Austin Styling: Desiree Lederer

Dvora is a photographer with a passion for people. Her images of stylish women and men on the streets truly epitomise street style. She has worked with the likes of Vogue, GQ, Vanity Fair and Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Officiel Ukraine. We feature a selection which capture an essence of now. Instagram: @fashionistable

N o 20

FA S H I O N

There is a new pulse to beauty at Voir Fashion online, and we are channeling it from a different angle. Our beauty trend edits are designed to challenge you and open up your mind to new ways of expression, underpinned by the runway shows of Milan, Paris, London and New York. We comment more on the stylish high ponytails which bring an equine finishing touch to a Prada collection, or the space-age silver eyes which deliver an intern-galactic allure to a Matty Bovan runway show. And this is all presented to you in a format you can share on social media. We talk designers and brands, the Tom Fords of this world, YSL, Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;OrĂŠal, Nars and Dior. We look at fragrance that raises the bar, from relative newcomer Karen Walker, to the internationally-known and recently-reworked Chanel No. 5.

Words: Emma Cannon, Research: Rachel Langan

Gone are the days when a couple running across a beach in a perfume advert was enough to sell a heavily gender-stereotyped scent, times have moved on and so have the ideologies of people buying them. People, specifically ‘Generation Y’ want their fragrances to transport them, to take them on a journey, a scent that triggers a memory or a perfume that just relates to them more as young people living in the 21st century. Brands are tuning into this demand and some have already jumped on this experiential trend. Brands like Kenzo whose new fragrance ‘Kenzo World’ reaches out to young people who are expressive, daring, and not afraid to be different. Chanel’s No5 L’eau fragrance advert reinvents the iconic perfume in a new contemporary light that relates more to a younger audience. It plays on the notion that ‘you know me and you don’t’ I am established yet I am new and different. It is essential for brands like Chanel who have been a leading influence in perfumery since 1910, to keep current and in touch with the younger generation as they are the ones who will carry on the brand into the next generation and beyond. As well as re-tuning their visual marketing strategies, brands are also looking at more hands-on experiences for their customers before they invest in a fragrance. Retailers such as Harrods allow the consumer to create ‘their own life story in a bottle’, its an intimate experience that means customers walk away with a one-of-a-kind scent that triggers memories and experiences through one of our most sensitive senses - olfactory. The future of fragrance is truly in the hands of the millennials and we will be sure to see brands honing in and creating some really refreshing and exciting new ways of continuing on the art of scent.

Introduced by Emma Cannon, Researched by Laura White.

1.Bora Aksu 2.Emilio Pucci 3.Antonio Marras 4.Vivienne Westwood 5.Mary Katrantzou 6.Prabal Gurung 7.Moon Young Hee 8.Kenzo 9.Leonard Paris

Like applying bold strokes to a Rothko piece, designers such as Prabal Gurung, Kenzo, Bora Aksu and Mary Katrantzou all embraced this minimal make-up look this AW17. Each look was carefully chosen to carry the mood of the collections, Val Garland’s look for Vivienne Westwood concentrated on bright primary colours using Mac’s Chromagraphic Pencil that was either smudged into a solid smokey eye or drawn into a single elliptical ring. The “I want candy” inspired look was a popular catwalk trend this coming season.

Introduced by Emma Cannon, Researched by Laura White.

1.JW Anderson 2.Alexander McQueen 3.Dior 4.Erdem 5.Christopher Kane 6.Emilia Wickstead 7.Max Mara 8.Lanvin 9.Isabel Marant 10.Stella McCartney

A lot of designers this AW17 embraced the natural look this season and teamed their collections with brushed brows and dewy skin to create a really clean and fresh look. With the odd edition of light oranges and plush pinks to the eyelids and a slight gloss to the lips, the looks were kept as minimally flawless as possible. Val Garland was behind the natural brushed-brow look of Erdem AW17, using a combination of Narsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Concealer and satin real-skin foundation for a soft velvet finish. Other designers on this natural wave this AW17 were; Alexander McQueen, Christopher Kane, Emilia Wickstead, Lanvin and JW Anderson. Emma Cannon

As Seen In Voir #7 ‘The ART of BEAUTY by DIOR’ by Elizabeth Daisy.

Beauty Revisited

READ IT HERE

As Seen In Voir #1 ‘NARSissist’ by Stacey Borg.

Beauty Revisited

READ IT HERE

As Seen In Voir #2 ‘All About YVES’ by Jyoti Matoo.

Beauty Revisited

READ IT HERE

As Seen In Voir #3 ‘Can You AfFORD Not To?’ by Charlotte Hall.

Beauty Revisited

READ IT HERE

As Seen In Voir #12 ‘Feel the BENEFIT’ by Hollie Race.

Beauty Revisited

READ IT HERE

Voirâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s latest publication has been given its own web page. Here you can flip through the pages and read the entire magazine [courtesy of Issuu.com], or get an overview of whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in between the covers to whet your appetite for reading later on. We have also thought about how often you engage with the Voir archive, and provided a direct link to every past issue, ensuring you can reflect on fashion past whilst indulging in fashion future.

Incredible talent starts whole new conversations. We are therefore constantly searching for new realms of creativity to feature at Voir Fashion, providing the platform for you to be seen. Now is the time to interactâ&#x20AC;Ś..what are you waiting for?

Voir Fashion Magazine - For those daring to be different. Voir is an online publication issued on a quarterly basis. Issue 19 has been outlined by the following :

Jyoti Matoo Editor-In-Chief / Stylist jm@voirfashion.co.uk Luke Walwyn Art Director/Photographer art@voirfashion.co.uk Felix Laurens Brand Liaison creative@voirfashion.co.uk Kymberley Jefferson : Head Hair Stylist Stacey Borg : Head MUA Laura White : Editorial Team/Styling Assistant Emma Cannon : Editorial Team/Writer Sachin Gogna : Editorial Team/Creative Rachel Langan : Editorial Team/Writer WRITERS, ARTISTS & CREATIVES Marianne Tupelo - Fashion research Special Thank You to the following: Magnum Moschino Selfridges Manchester Harvey Nichols Leeds Flannels Leeds Topshop Personal Shopping Slaters Menswear Anita Massarella GoldKey Media Jack Eames Photographer Dvora Photographer Rachel Morris Jamie @Haus Hairdressing for product research For creative submissions creative@voirfashion.co.uk For collaborations and editorial content: jm@voirfashion.co.uk For general enquiries editorial@voirfashion.co.uk For beauty enquiries lifestyle@voirfashion.co.uk

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