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CAND’D
May 2018
Boasting Bodies
Issue 1
RE:CYCLEContributions
Editor: Catherine Roland
Deputy Editors: Chene Schoeman, Janais Van Eck
Photographers: Marnie Smit, Andrew Taylor, Sarah Hume
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Catherine Roland
note from the editor
The CAND’D team is working together to bring
you the best mix of the season’s fashion and beauty releases, shopping tips, and service stories in ways that are both inspirational, and attainable. This edition we are all about ‘plus size’ body positivity.
We aim to transport the everyday fashionista to a reflective and realistic fashion world where all bodies are recognized, catered for and celebrated. We want to allow our reader to have an involvement and awareness of ethical fashion; be it in model diversity, production process or the consumption of retailed clothing.
In this edition we bring you SA’s contemporary trends, like our favourite unisex brands, and the vibrant new faces of campaigns, like Marianne Fassler. We hope to keep you updated with South African fashion culture with our monthly cand’d collection, and calendar.
We like to keep it relevant, casual, and always cand’d.
xx
We hope you enjoy.
May 2018
Designers: Shannon Pine, James Price, Sive Petse, Kiranya Govender, Tumi Mchunu
Writers: Palesa Mkhize, Dylan Hook, Hannah Frost, Lelo Macheke, Adam Chadwick, Saaniyah Yacoob, Lefa Motloung, Dakota Date Chong
Social Media: Phethu Nogoduka, Amanda van Zyl, Stephanie Le Roux
Marketers: Ronald Munodawafa Daniel Maneveld
Advertising Agency: Brooke Ltd.
Publishers: Dotzeday Pages
Special thanks to: Brian Garman Brian Garman’s coffee
photo of the month
Photo submitted by: Ahmed Carter Instagram: @sarahjanedress
Want your photo featured? Send them to Cand’d@gmail.com
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May 2018
TABLE of CONTENTS
Regulars
28
SAFW: Woolworths release sustainable collection
76
32
Queer history of the fanny pack
Designer of the month
10Need to know brands
1538
Bad and boudoir – Lady Skollie is the face of Marianne Fassler’s latest campaign
Our body truths
47Social media: Your body truths
86Cand’d collection
91Tips: ethical shopping
10248 58 64
70
The every_day_man project
The mannequin movement
The plus size models changing representation
Local swimwear, Nude Wear, brand promotes bodypositivity
76
108
113
This plus size fashion shoot will make you forget all those times shopping brought you to tears
DIY: dyeing clothing with avocado skins
Four statement staple shoes you can’t live without this year
Cand’d calendar
119May 2018
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May 2018
esigner of themonth
Catherine Roland
Shopping ZWD means less waste, more jobs and a cleaner future for fashion
Zero Waste Daniel is the first zero waste line of clothing made using Daniel Silverstein’s original technique, reroll. Made from 100% pre-consumer cutting room scraps, the brand is fashion on a mission. Each piece is hand crafted in Brooklyn, New York, and saves roughly one pound (or 0.5kg) of fabric scraps from going to landfill, eliminating fashion’s wasteful reputation.
Daniel Silverstein
Daniel Silverstein is a New York based clothing designer and zero waste pioneer.
In 2017 his story and brand went viral with more than 20 million views worldwide on features in Now This and Insider sharing his mission to end waste in the fashion industry one scrap at a time.
Daniel first gained the attention of both the buyers and shoppers across America on season 2 of the NBC reality competition, Fashion Star, in 2013.
From there, celebrities including Jennifer Hudson, Kristen Bell and Amber Valletta were seen at red carpet events and on magazine covers across the US and England in his couture zero waste designs.
In 2016 daniel embarked on a new journey with the creation of Zero Waste Daniel.
Zero Waste Daniel, or ZWD, is a line of genderless basics fabricated completely from pre-consumer waste from New York’s Garment Industry in a transparent storefront factory in Brooklyn where each piece produced diverts roughly one pound of textile waste from landfill.
Now in it’s 3rd year, ZWD has transformed literal tons of scrap material into a growing business.
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May 2018
Go anywhere.
6
local unisex brands you need to know about
Amber Barker
Merwe Mode
Deeva van der Merwe is a passionate and experienced young fashion designer who was born and bred in Cape Town. She graduated from FEDISA with a BA in Fashion Design and Business Management, attaining awards for her technical ability and creativity.
Merwe Mode was born with a vision of becoming a local employer producing top quality tailoring for the South African market.
Merwe Mode mixes the best of Europen street style with the creativity, independence and unique flair of South African design.
Merwe Mode produces classic, clean cut androgynous looks with unique detailing from the use of original acid prints to quirky tailoring flair.
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Lukhanyo Mdingi
Established in 2015, the Lukhanyo Mdingi label has seamlessly created that celebrate the essence of storytelling.
Rich in cross-cultural references and research, the South Africa label uses history and theory as a foundation to honour timeless elegance and discretion in its pieces.
Thebe Magugu
Thebe Magugu is a young fashion designer with a drive to create original couture. He was born and raised in Kimberley, South Africa and is inspired by the women who played important roles in his life.
Magugu studied Fashion & Apparel Design at Lisof Fashion School in Johannesburg. He has contributed his views regarding modern fashion and South African youth culture to publications including The Times and Flux Trends.
Magugu’s work is unified by themes of juxtaposition. He is interested in exploring the disparity between masculinity & femininity, tradition & experiment, overlarge & abridged and other differences in the design of his garments.
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Mzukisi Mbane
Mzukisi Mbane is a Cape Town-fashion designer with a BCom degree in Accounting. He established his company, Swagger Diaries, in 2011 and although he has no formal training in fashion design, he creates at least
80% of what he wears. Mbane’s aim is to develop a fashion brand, Imprint, that celebrates glamour while narrating a story of African ancestors through the use of unique designs, prints and fabrics. Imprint clothing and accessories are made with distinct patterns and fabrics that ensure the wearers that they will not fade into the highly competitive and expressive fashion landscape.
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Nicholas Coutts
Concentrating on tailoring, craftsmanship, textile development, weaving, furniture and a tangible outlook on fashion, Nicholas’ designs exude functionality, timeless elegance and incorporate a human touch into the aesthetic.
Nicholas started in the fashion industry as a teenager working with some of the best stylists, designers, producers and creative directors in South
Africa and has gone on to win prestigious awards and accolades for his work.
Weaving forms an intrinsic part of Nicholas’ design philosophy, creating highly textured hand woven one of a kind textiles which speak for themselves and create synergy between traditional and modern craft.
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Young and Lazy
Young and Lazy is a street and sports wear oriented clothing brand out of Cape Town, South Africa. Started by Anees Petersen in 2009 as a means to express a long time desire to create streetwear, the brand has grown immensely over the subsequent years.
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Drag’s impact on fashion
Faith Beaubrun
Drag is a gender-bending art form that has taken over the fashion world. However, it’s more than just men emulating women but a way of self expression through clothes and makeup. Drag and fashion are similar in more ways than people could imagine; one way is its ability to appeal to the masses and influence popular culture. It has taken the once underground club movement of drag decades to reach the mainstream, but with the help of shows like Rupaul’s Drag Race, drag is now able to reach the likes millions all around the world, some who may have never seen a man in a wig before.
The Emmy award winning show, now in its 10th season, has catapulted a plethora of queens with huge personalities into stardom over night. From glamorous pageant queens to “campy” out of the box queens to high fashion rule-breaker queens, they all compete for the title of “Next Drag Superstar.” But if the competitive nature of the show is not enough, the fashion moments on the main stage every week is enough to have you coming back for more; the same way fashion week is highly anticipated every year. People sitting front row at a show or in front of their TV each week can’t wait to see what these creators have up their shelves for us to “gag” over.
These queens and designers have a huge influence on each other. For years it has always been that drag queens would recreate high fashion looks onstage but now the tables have turned. Top designers are using drag queens as inspiration for their collections, either as a muse or as campaign models. Drag Race season 6 queen ‘Milk’ was able to have his own fashion campaign with designer Macs Jacobs after leaving the show, completely changes the way people view gender and what is considered “male” fashion. With influence such as this, it’s more common now to see men walking down the runway in skirts, a wig and even high heels and believe it or not it’s thanks to drag.
Drag started from humble beginnings first being used in the 20th century in Shakespearean plays and since then has turned into a global sensation. Gender ambiguity is trending in the fashion world thanks to the many queens who were willing to share their art with the world. With the way drag is being celebrated today it showsno signs of stopping, and frankly we at CAND’D don’t want it to.
“Gender ambiguity is trending in the fashion world thanks to the many queens who were willing to share their art with the world”
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May 2018
#SAFW: Woolworths reveals sustainable
Woolworths placed the spotlight on
sustainable fashion at this year’s SA Fashion Week with the launch of a sustainable capsule collection.
This year’s Style by SA collection features the work of 10 local fashion designers and collectives – four of which have been commissioned by Woolworths to produce pieces made using sustainable fibres.
capsule collection
Local fashion frontrunners, Rich Mnisi, Thebe Magugu, Selfi and AKJP, have conceptualised and designed a range made from Better Cotton. The cotton has been sourced from the SADC region and has undergone a dyeing process that uses only eco-friendly chemicals. Better Cotton has been developed as a sustainable solution by the ‘Better Cotton Initiative’ (BCI) programme. BCI works to transform cotton production worldwide by advocating for the well being of the people who produce it, and the environment in which it grows.
The capsule collection taps into some of the season’s key new directions, which includes blue and white striped shirting set off with accent hues of orange, cobalt and candy pink.
Joining The Better Cotton collection in the ranks are the Glam and Resort collections, which together make up the complete Style by SA capsule.
“This year, we have taken four of the
Local fashion frontrunners, Rich Mnisi, Thebe Magugu, Selfi and AKJP, have conceptualised and designed a range made from Better Cotton
Emily Patterson
incredibly creative and dynamic fashion designers from the original capsule collection and added six more talented designers – Gert- Johan Coetzee, Cleo Droomer, Lukhanyo Mdingi, Sindiso Khumalo, Reggie Xaba (iFele) and Ephraim Molingoana (Ephymol) – to deliver three proudly South African ranges on the runway: The Glam Capsule, The Resort Capsule and a Woolworths first, The Better Cotton Capsule,” says Thateng Shimange, Woolworths general manager, Womensworld.
Woolworths also created an installation to be showcased at SAFW, designed and produced with people and the planet in mind. The installation features BCI cotton sheeting accented with raw BCI cotton slivers, which will be donated to The Clothing Bank to help empower unemployed South African women.
From the indigenous water-wise plants to the scaffolding, Woolworths says each element of the activation space has been carefully considered in terms of minimising waste and ensuring the option of recycling or re-use in the supply chain.
For the upcoming Spring/Summer season, the retailer uses more than 2,800 tons of organic or sustainable cotton, and over 380 tonnes of fibre made from either recycled polyester produced from plastic bottles or Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) approved Viscose.
Woolworths was recently ranked #40 in Fortune magazine’s third annual ‘Change the World’ list – the only African company to make the grade – and has been selected as an index component of the Dow Jones Sustainability Indices (DJSI).
The new Style by SA collection is available online and in selected stores.
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ONETWO
1. Sweat Top R699 2. Cotton T-Shirt R550
Young & Lazy
ONE
THREE
TWO
1. Ruffle Top R699 2. Midi Skirt R1099 3. Coat R1799, Thebe Magugu
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TWO
ONE
THREE
1. Crepe Jumpsuit R1499 2. Wrap Dress R1399 3. Zipped Tunic R1099 Rich Mnisi
ONE
TWO
1. Chore Jacket R1099 2. Textured Cotton Chinos R799 3. Hooded Parka Jacket R1599 Sol Sol
THREE
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Queer history
of the fanny pack
Kelly Evans
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May 2018
High fashion adopted the fanny pack that us queers have adorned ourselves with for years.
What was once considered fashion-faux pas by the straight-cis world is now flaunted by celebrities from Kendall Jenner to A$AP Rocky.
Some say the popularization of Coachella revived the fanny pack; others link it to rave culture. There is very little discourse, however, about the fanny pack’s link to queer culture, and in particular lesbian culture. The same sexism and homophobia that prevents people from recognizing the positive impacts queer people have on society is the very force that has made queer style so worthy of stealing.
Much like flannel and Birkenstocks, fanny packs have been a part of the practical queer wardrobe since lesbian second-wave feminists chose to eschew fashion in favour of practical clothing. The FIT’s 2013-14 queer fashion exhibit referred to this style as “anti-fashion,” which emerged after stonewall in the 70’s. The anti-fashion style has maintained a central component of lesbian culture. The style was captured in a 1993 photo of a
couple decked in mom jeans denim jackets, and a fanny pack; kissing at the March on Washington for Lesbian and Gay Rights.In 2000, the revival of Roller Derby, the best full-contact sport with majority women, emerged. Queer women flocked to the sport and brought their fanny packs with them. Derbiest Aimee owns multiple fanny packs, saying, “They are huge in derby culture since our uniforms don’t usually have pockets and you wouldn’t want to keep skate tools etc in your pockets while playing anyway!”
Today the fanny pack is popular among queers of
all genders and styles, as the anti-fashion trend became incorporated into the bold, offbeat fashion choices that have become popular method of queer resistance over the past several years.
Though they are now mainstream, no one can deny our historical connection to the fanny pack, nor can they deny that our love for them will stand the test of time.
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Bad and boudoir – Lady Skollie is the face of Marianne Fassler’s latest campaign
Janet Du Toit
Lady Skollie's art is known for being bold, yet vulnerable. She plays with vibrant colours and symbolic fruit and highlights both the dark and light side of human sexuality.
Her aesthetic, therefore, makes her the ideal person to front Marianne Fassler's latest fashion campaign: Fassler Resort 17/18.
Together with an incredible team, including Joburgbased photographer Zander Opperman, stylist Lezanne Viviers, assistant stylist Daisie-Jo Grobler and hair and makeup artist Tyron Sweeney, they’ve created something otherworldly.
It’s fashion goals if ever we saw them. The images are on Instagram with the following powerful caption by the poet Melissa Fontini:
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“She stands with her feet shoulder width apart back arched, she feels just like her mother taught her, contours rounded and fruitful,
glacé black cherry lips she is an unconventional use of colour but beautiful she was holding a bunch of lotus flowers blooming in voluminous silk,
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pure is every caress, tangible touch, enigmatic gesture and gripping glance her body holds an abundance of secrets subdued by no man,
Marianne Fassler SS17/18
Taken by: Zander Opperman
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her beguiling banter, the lift of her arms, the flaunt of her breasts, she holds the artistry of a woman she is as she stands, she is as she feels she is nobody but herself.
”
May 2018
get your
REBEL on
our
The body is not a crime; is not a gun. The body is not a spill to be contained. It is not a lost set of keys, a wrong number dialed. It is not the orange burst of blood to shame white dresses. The body is not an apology.
— Elizabeth Mirsh
body truths
The every_day_man project
Tarik Carroll
As I began elementary school, I found myself in classrooms
filled with students that looked nothing like me. In those moments, I began to embark upon my first understanding of body concept. I began to develop perceptions of my body’s attractiveness, acceptability and functionality by comparing myself to others. In those moments, reality would consistently hit me like tons of bricks. During my developmental years, I often felt isolated. I was consistently the tallest kid in class, the dude with a voice higher than most of the other boys, and (of course) I was always the chubbiest kid in the class. I started to feel self conscious about myself even as I rode public transportation to and from school. I worried about getting glances and being judged based on my appearance. I would always refrain from making eye contact and would head straight to the back of the bus. But, when I became a teenager, I learned how to make my self smaller.
I would hide myself under large stylish baseball caps and $5 sunglasses from St Marks Place to mask the fear and shame of my face. From the beginning, I was labeled “different” which is something that has followed me throughout my life. At 6 years old, being “different” felt like a curse. But now at 29, being “different” feels more like a blessing.
Society has always had this obsession with perfection. This obsession that conditions most of us to never feel comfortable in our own skin because we are simply not enough and most likely will never be. Voices beginning to ring in our heads. Echoes of “you are not thin enough, thick enough, too pale, too black, or simply not beautiful enough” to be accepted. These deafening voices circled my thoughts throughout most of my life. This tone echoes from our coaches, teachers and even our own parents.This idea that “ perfection” MUST be achieved no matter the emotional cost.
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Every_Day_ Man_Project
Taken by: Charlie Remming
It wasn’t until I started working in the fashion industry that I started to see through the “4th wall”. Upon learning the powers of retouching, I started to realize that perfection and beauty are purely subjective concepts. Once I started to build friendships and working relationships with various models, I quickly learned that body image issues didn’t discriminate. Listening to male models with bodies that rival greek gods tell me that they too suffer from body image issues was equally eyeopening and jarring. Hearing damaging childhood stories of isolation, fear and obsessive self scrutiny made me realize that as men, we had more in common than I previously believed. Most of us had been programmed with this cycle of self hate beginning at the playground; in a space where we were most impressionable and vulnerable.
I am creating the “Every_Man” project to empower and inspire. This project is geared towards creating a safe space that I hope will serve to liberate men worldwide from self hate. This book will challenge society’s standards of what the REAL male aesthetic is through the lens of re-imagined iconic 90’s fashion ads. I want to challenge society’s obsession with hyper masculinity and perfection by capturing men/male identifying from all backgrounds, orientations, gender identifications, personal classifications, races and colors.This is a call to all. This is a visual conversation about inclusion and diversity which I intend to translate into an actual conversation about the positivity that begins within.
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The
Mannequin
Movement
Shannon Barbour
British clothing brand Missguided just made a huge step toward celebrating diversity. Instead of lifeless white body doubles, the brand will now show new, diverse mannequins on their sales floors.
The mannequins made their debut in Missguided’s two United Kingdom stores (London and Kent) this week. The updated fashion figures come in a range of skin tones and have features like freckles, stretch marks, and vitiligo. According to Campaign, Missguided hired makeup artists to create the mannequins, which can be found exclusively at Missguided stores.
The brand has famously been making strides to become more inclusive and celebrate all bodies. Late last year, they announced they would not photoshop models’ stretch marks with the #MakeYourMark campaign. These mannequins are the most recent addition to that campaign.
As far as this most recent update, yes, these mannequins are still all tall, thin, and able-bodied, which can reinforce the unhealthy idea of an “ultra-thin” body ideal, but making them reflect real women even slightly more is at least a step in the right direction.
Diversity in fashion tends to focus on trying to achieve a balance of race, size and age. Misguided has a new approach by showcasing other features, such as stretch marks, to enforce its normality
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“No one is perfect: women DO have stretch marks, women DO have scars and women DO have cellulite”
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Busiswa
May 2018
Mpho Rantao
The inclusion of plus-size models into the mainstream modelling industry and fashion labels became a growing trend in 2015 after Ashley Graham became the first plus-size model to grace the cover of Sports Illustrated’s Swimsuit Issue in a two-piece bikini.
The plus-size models changing fashion
Upon the success of Graham’s Sports Illustrated cover, the sports magazine made history once more when they featured their first black plus-size model, named Tabria Majors. Majors is also known in the United States for featuring on website catalogues for plus-size fashion brands and mainstream brands such as Forever 21plus, but with Sports Illustrated being her first major cover issue, it also pushed her into the spotlight for being a plus-size model who also had a notable six-pack.
Both Graham and Majors elevated the status of being a curvy woman in the United States, and they helped to destroy the stigma surrounding plus-size women of being unhealthy and overweight. Other American plus-size models who have broken barriers since then include Tess Holliday, who became the first size 22 (South African size 44) model in the fashion industry.
In South Africa, the presence of plus-size models is still quite minimal, with a number of plus-size women drawing inspiration from international models and influencers, or from local influencers such as Lesego Legobane (@ThickLeeyonce), Gqom artist Busiswa and plussize fashion bloggers Lala Tshabalala (known as @Plussizeisme) and Meg from the blog Mind The Curves (@mindthecurvesza).
In a country like South Africa, where the average size of a woman is between 34 and 40, the presence of plus-size models modelling for brands besides Donna or Miladys is still absent. The rise of the plussized model brings hope not only to women but also to young girls who are exposed to the “old-fashioned” societal beauty standards that have been around for decades.
The love and support of women such as Thick Leeyonce, Ashley Graham along with the increasing representation from top modelling agencies such as Boss Models shows that the media is embracing and accepting the various sizes that women and men come in.
However, in order to love our own bodies and be accepting of our size, we need to change how we look at these beautiful plus-size women. And that on its own is a task that not even the media can handle. That task belongs to the people.
They have the smile, confidence and the look of a model. They are plus-size models who are taking over
Lesego Legobane (@ThickLeeyonce)
Body +ve
Local swimwear, Nude Wear, brand promotes body-positivity
Palesa Kgasane
Nude Wear is not all aesthetics and dust tones; the
swimwear brand is breaking barriers via social media and the brand's Spring/Summer 2018 lookbook is an ode to the divine multi-faceted femme.
Cape Town-based Denicke Cronje is the mastermind behind the brand that is merging swimwear with activism by deconstructing societal ideas of acceptable beauty. Aside from the gorgeous imagery that we fell in love with on the gram', we wanted to find out how this empowering venture came about - this being our body positive edition, we could not think of a more apt time.
The Gender and Anthropology major, Cronje , gave us some insight into her world of feminism and body-positivity which lead the birth of Nude Wear.
. Nude Wear SS18 - Taken by: Niquita Bento
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What is Nude Wear?
I started Nude Wear just over a year ago. It initially started as a platform where women could come together and collaborate while addressing issues relating to body-positivity, racism and sexism. The name was inspired by two ideas. Firstly, the Eurocentric ideology surrounding the concept of “nude”, which commonly represents the colour beige. Secondly, ‘nude’ as in ‘nudity’. What types of bodies are being represented in the media, and why? Nude Wear, therefore aims to represent the miscellany of South African women.
What inspired the idea?
I’ve always been an advocate for women-empowerment and body- positivity. Therefore, the brand developed from years of exploring these issues, which continue to affect women in contemporary society. I quickly realised that young women are often taught to measure their own success and capability with their aesthetic attributes. Therefore, Nude Wear allows women the opportunity to explore and reconstruct hegemonic beauty standards. As women we need to be constantly engaging in this representational deconstruction.
Who are the women behind the range?
I started the brand at 21, at the time of Nude Wear’s inception I was an anthropology and Gender Studies major at UCT, with very little experience and knowledge in the business and fashion realm. I used every opportunity to learn and expand my skills and expertise. With the help and support of some remarkable women, I was able to grow the brand while using fashion as activism.
Models from the agency, Curves models, Marciel Hopkins, Junette Syster, Asanda Maku and Terri Lane are often featured, and their collaborative spirit, support and ambassadorship has been influential.
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These collaborations are at the epicentre of womenempowerment; we continue to champion the idea of women supporting other women. The future truly is female
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How is your brand championing body positivity effectively in the age where some use social media to body- shame?
We are constantly searching for beauty in diversity. We continue to believe that representation matters, and we try our best to create an inclusive space where women can share their experiences and insecurities. It is essential that women understand that hegemonic beauty standards are not normal, they are socially constructed, and therefore, they can be altered and reimagined. Body positivity is for everybody.
Tell us about the idea behind your lookbook images?
Dust & Dunes is our SS18 collection; we really tried to create a campaign, which explored modern femininity. We built the concept around each model’s unique attributes, using our new skin-tone range to accentuate the perfectly flawed feminine form. Every element of the campaign was carefully constructed by a team of talented female creatives. We collaborated with Niquita Bento, the queen of editorial photography, face beat by the extraordinary Talia Barak and styling by Amori Birch.
Do you think that the South African beauty industry is opening up to diversity?
YES! The industry is controlled by demand. Therefore, we encourage both men and women to continue to challenge and question the beauty industry.
The wrapstyle SS 18 bikini range comes in a variety of shades of nude and we at cand’d love how real and relatable it is.
LANEBryantPhotos taken by: Bry Crasch
This plus size fashion shoot will make you forget all those times shopping brought you to tears
Amanda Richards
Georgia Dress, R1613, Universal Standard
Twenty years ago a tall, chubby twelve-year-old girl went shopping with her mother. They went to Gadzooks (RIP), The Limited (RIP), and a few local commercial stores. The girl couldn’t find anything in her size, refused to be seen in the ‘maternity’ or ‘plus size’ sections, and concluded the outing by storming to the car and weeping.
Ten years ago, that same girl changed her approach to searching for the fashion she so dearly loved: She stopped looking. After all, the only clothing available in her size was sold at Lane Bryant — nice enough, but the grown-ass-career-woman aesthetic didn’t look right on an 18-year-old.
Today, the girl is a fashion and beauty editor. She regularly spends too much money on clothes and has a decently sick wardrobe. Her sense of style is always evolving, and she’s always encouraging other former-chubby-kids-turned-plus-size-fashion-lovers to rethink their assumptions about what looks good.
Yeah, the girl is me. I’m a woman now — grown ass, but not quite cut from that grown ass Lane Bryant cloth (though nothing but respect for those who are).
The way the plus size fashion market has grown and evolved over the last 20 years is astounding. If you told 12-year-old, sobbing-in-thecar me about this, I would have rolled my reddened eyes and wrote something aggressive in my diary about your lies.
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Red Off The Shoulder Dress, R1 170, ASOS | Weave Pant, R1 075, Eloquii
In 2018, there are more options for plus size women than ever before, but there’s still much to be desired. Plus size fashion has a presence in formerly off-limits spaces like New York Fashion Week, but many of the offerings on the runway — and subsequently on store racks — fall short. Finding plus size clothing with a
“Despite my frustrations, there are still reasons to be happy about how plus size fashion has transformed itself”
solid combination of trendiness, affordability, and a reasonably inclusive size range often feels impossible — even if you’re a fashion editor who literally gets to spend all day trying.
Despite my frustrations, there are still reasons to be happy about how plus size fashion has transformed itself. There are dozens of wonderful plus size bloggers and influencerschanging the tides, many of whom are people of color, and they refuse to let the industry dictate whether or not they’re represented. Can’t find a black, visibly fat woman in a tight dress, rolls on display, proud as can be to admire? Just become that woman and get yourself tens of thousands of followers on social media. That’s what Jezra Matthews, the incredible model at the center of this editorial, did. She’s a size 20/22, an unsigned model with natural locs and possibly the most perfect smile in the game, who built an Instagram following of over 100,000 by herself. Jezra is just one of hundreds of plus size women who don’t just want representation — they are representation.
And, these days, there are so many plus size options beyond Lane Bryant. Many of these brands are producing affordable, on-trend pieces for women sizes 20 and above. No, not all of it is perfect, and yes, it does take some work to figure out and piece together — but it’s there, which is more than 12-or-22-year-old me could say. But what good is accessible fashion if you’re unsure what to work with? What trends should you try, which pieces work for which looks, and how do those clothes look on an actual fat body? Turns out, a lot of the clothing available on the 2018 racks can be styled up and out to the next level.
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I saw Gucci’s 2018 autumn ready-to-wear collection go down the runway, but I never thought I’d be able to recreate the concept in plus. Lo and behold, rich floral prints do exist in plus sizes, here to spare us from the ditsy florals that so regularly haunt our clothing racks.
The idea with this look, and one that I’m 100 percent supportive of, is to do the absolute most. The Eloquii floral pajama set, combined with the Eloquii jacquard coat, are the perfect pieces with which to do so. Maximalist print mixing is an incredibly fun way to put together a look, and it’s also guaranteed to leave passersby in awe of your confidence, the impact you make when you step into a room, and your ability to coordinate unlikely clothing pieces.
Floral Pajama Set,
R1 277, Eloquii | Jacquard Coat, R2 150, Eloquii
When I think of the panoptic universe of street style, it's hard for me to imagine what the aesthetic looks like for a plus size woman — I love a tracksuit, but it's tough to find one in my size. This look is an alternative approach to street style, one that features pieces we can actually buy.
The Universal Standard Geneva Fog Dress (available in black, blue, and gray) instantly adds a layer of interest to any outfit. It's the perfect way to tone down this iridescent Club L Cami Strap Midi Bodycon Dress, just in time to take it back up a notch with a metallic silver rain jacket. Add a pair of combat boots to the mix, because night looks don't always have to rest on heels. It's part club kid, part futuristic road warrior, and totally wearable once you convince yourself that you deserve to look this cool. You do.
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Geneva Fog Dress, R1 075, Universal
Standard | Mini Bodycon Dress,
R538, ASOS | Metallic Silver Rain Jacket, R672, ASOS
Stateeightsocially cand’d
Your body truths
@Shannboje:
I stopped looking really and ended up wearing leggings and hoodies/v-necks. It’s either the design does not really flatter my body (dresses and tops- especially the top part- I’ll look like a hobbit). Jeans get stuck by my thighs, don’t go up above knees, oversized at the waist. I think the main thing is that I always, always, end up crying in changing rooms. It has become so normal for me that I am prepared for a sad day when I have to shop..
@Carmenwilliams:
Something needs to change with clothing store in South Africa. It’s clear that the industry lacks representation or they just refuse to listen to people with bigger bodies. Donna Claire and Miladys are also so dated. I do not want to go around looking 60 when I am 22. Or if that isn’t the case then the clothing made for bigger bodies is made for taller people. I’m short and big. Clothes for different bodies need to be available, affordable and stylish. Can the clothing gods please hear my plea?
@Bookishthot:
Question: As a ‘fuller’-figured person,do you struggle to find clothing in regular South African stores?
I find shopping extremely exhausting & I find myself feeling a type of way - negative - about my body. Soon, we need to talk about cute dresses/top with spaghetti straps that offer no support for big boobs. This cut and paste situation. Yoh ah ah. I’m also really not okay with having to go to a separate section called ‘plus size’. I am ‘normal sized’.
I’m small (short and frame) and in 2015 bought a cardigan in the ‘plus-sized’ section at forever 21 (marked as part of the plus-size range). it just blew my mind-if i’m an xs or s and shopping in the plus-size section, where the hell are fuller figured people meant to shop?!
@Gela_Bee
@Gemma-mauritz:
@Xolisile
I once went into a store. Was there all of 5 seconds when the assistant said, "This a one size fits all store." Me: Oh and what will fit me? Him: Something with elastic. I'm a size 34 BTW.
My friend and I spent a full day at the shops trying to go clothing store hopping after pay day. At the end of the day, we felt so defeated. We decided to boost our spirits by having a photoshoot. It really helped us, but it still didn’t help our clothing situation. SA something needs to change!
May 2018
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Nightscape
cand’d
M A YC O L L E C T I O N
May 2018
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“They can imitate your style but they can’t imitate your creativity.” — Jonathan Sylvester
“Life in plastic, oh honey it’s fantastic.” - Mikky Hurrel
“I’m not into trends, I create my own. I am a trend” — Travis Williams
“You don’t need really expensive clothes to look and feel cute.” — Christy Romano
“Dress like you are already famous, that’s what I think when I prepare for my night.” Lebo Maseko
“When I am choosing clothing I kind of go: If you can’t stop thinking about it then BUY it.”— Andrea Howarth
“It doesn’t matter what kind of clothes you put on, if you’re a stylish individual, you’re going to preserve that.” — Greg Dragoni
“I exercise good style, becuase my personality isn’t the first thing people see.” — Asanda Mbangi
TIPS
Kelly Dougher
How to shop ethically:
5 tips for reducing your fashion footprint
Nothing is more disheartening for a fashion
lover than to realize that their passion for clothes might have a negative impact on the rest of the world. Even casual shoppers are contributing to the problem more than they may think. The problem, to be specific, is fast fashion. By now it’s common knowledge that the booming surplus of cheap clothing is causing problems worldwide, from poor conditions for factory workers that lead to tragedies such as the collapsed factory in Bangladesh to an unsustainable toll being taken on Earth’s resources.
There is simply too much clothing being made, often in unethical ways. A century ago it was standard for someone to only own a handful of clothing, made
well and repaired over and over again so that each item would last for years. Now the average person buys around 65 items of cheap clothes and discards more than 40kgs of clothing in landfills every year. It’s not sustainable, so if you care about the earth and the people who live in it then you probably agree that it’s time to look for alternative ways to shop. Here are cand’ds top tips to start your ethical shopping journey:
It may seem overwhelming at first, but the good news is that it’s actually very easy to make small but impactful changes to the way you shop for clothes. Whether you take us up on just one or all ten of our suggestions, you can feel good knowing that you’re making a difference (while still getting your fashion fix).
1Research ethical
2
clothing brands online
If you want to buy brand new clothing and your only nearby option is a mall, then it’s time to head to the Internet and discover all the amazing brands that produce clothing ethically and consciously. Here’s a few just to get you started: Eileen Fisher has a great eco-friendly collection of simple, classically stylish clothing. Everlane offers modern basics and complete transparency about how and where their clothes are made. These are just a few examples–with just a little online digging, you’re sure to find an ethical clothing brand that suits your style and budget.
Support local small businesses
Speaking of shopping locally, if you have any small clothing boutiques nearby then they’re a much better bet than your local strip mall. It’s much easier to ask the owner of a small clothing boutique where they source the clothes they sell. Plus you get to feel good about supporting local businesses. Bonus points if that cute little shop on Main Street sells secondhand or handmade clothing.
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3Take a sewing or knitting class (or learn online)
If you have the spare time and the desire to learn, it’s always a great idea to make your own clothes. It will allow you to be creative and make something totally unique, in addition to teaching you the true value of one item of clothing in terms of the time and work involved. If you can’t find any sewing classes in your area (or can’t afford it), simply teach yourself with the help of online guides and Youtube videos. At the very least, you should teach yourself to make minor fixes and changes to your clothes such as patching holes and adjusting hems. This will help your clothes last longer and stop you from runningto the mall every time a favorite sweater develops a hole
5 4
Ask your favorite brands to do better
Don’t underestimate the power that you have as a consumer. Obviously you should vote for change with your dollars, by supporting the brands that are eco-conscious and avoiding the ones that are not. However, you should also use your voice. The advent of social media makes it easier than ever to make large brands aware of consumers’ wishes, so hop on Twitter, Instagram, and Facebook to ask your favorite brands to reform. The Internet can be a powerful tool, so be creative and figure out a way to make your voice heard, whether it’s with hashtags, petitions, or a viral video.
Check out Etsy for vintage and handmade items
If thrift stores aren’t your thing (or you don’t have any in your area), you can turn to Etsy for your clothing needs. It’s easy to lose hours browsing for a unique handmade silk and velvet shawl or the perfect vintage coat from the ‘60s. Not only are you buying an item that hardly anyone else will have, you’re also supporting a small business owner. You can even change your settings to shop locally.
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DIY
Rebecca Desnos
How to dye clothing fabric with avocado skins
My name is Rebecca Desnos and I’m a natural
dyer who works exclusively with plant dyes and plant fibres.
I began dyeing with plant extracts such as madder, which produce beautiful and reliable colours, but I discovered that it’s much more exciting and rewarding to make my own dyes from scratch.
Avocado skin dye is my current favourite dye and I’ve always got a jar of dye in the fridge ready to use. The colour is so pretty and I’m always finding new things to put in the dye pot. I think it helps that avocados are one of my favourite foods, so I manage to save up the skins quickly!
To prepare the fabric:
These instructions are for dyeing cellulose (plant) fibres, such as cotton, linen or bamboo.
1. Prewash fabric in the washing machine in a natural laundry liquid (I use ECOS Earth Friendly laundry liquid). Either allow to air dry or go onto next step.
2. Pour a litre of unsweetened soya milk into a bucket and dilute with water. I usually do roughly 1:1 ratio of water to milk. Drop fabric into the bucket of watered down milk and stir. Leave to soak overnight, stirring it a couple of times before going to bed.
3. In the morning, lift out the fabric and squeeze out as much of the soya milk as possible, then put on a spin cycle in the washing machine. 4. Leave to air dry.
5. Drop the fabric back into the bucket of milk for a quick dip. The aim is to coat the fabric evenly with soya milk, without removing the previous dried on layer. If
the fabric sits in there too long, the first layer of soya may rinse off.
6. Squeeze as much milk out of the fabric as possible and put on another spin in the washing machine and then leave to air dry.
7. Do a final quick dip in the soya milk, then squeeze out as much milk as possible hang up to drip dry. Depending on the weather, this final stage can be a bit smelly, so it’s best to dry outside if possible.
8. Once the fabric is completely dry, place it in a bag and store it for at least a week before using.
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To prepare the avocado skin dye:
I collect avocado skins over the course of a few weeks. I scrape and rinse the skins then place them in a bag in the freezer. I’ve only dyed with hass avocados as these are the only ones available in my local shops, but I’m sure that other varieties produce equally beautiful shades.
1. Weigh the dry fabric and use at least this weight of avocado skins. The higher the ratio of avocado skins to fabric, the more concentrated the dye, and therefore the deeper the colour. I often use 2:1 ratio of avocado skins to fabric to get a really deep colour.
2. Place the avocado skins in an aluminium saucepan and cover with tap water so that all skins are submerged.
3. Heat for at least an hour and stir from time to time. The skins will soften and break down.
4. Leave to cool, then strain the mixture through a sieve lined with a fine cloth such as muslin. The colour of the water should be a deep red. Squeeze the pulp in the cloth to extract as much of the concentrated colour as possible. The dye is now ready to use.
Dyeing the fabric:
Decide how you will dye your fabric. Will you dye it an even shade? Will you fold up and tie the fabric to create patterns?
1. Drop the fabric into the aluminium saucepan (reserved just for dyeing) and add extra water to make sure all the fabric is submerged and can about move freely.
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2. Heat the saucepan for at least an hour and allow the dye bath to simmer, ensuring the fabric is always submerged. Stir from time to time with a wooden spoon (never to be used again for cooking!) and keep a close eye on it to make sure that it doesn’t boil.
3. Leave the fabric to cool in the dyebath over night. Further heating may deepen the shade, but may not be necessary if you already have a deep shade.
4. Take the fabric out of the dyebath and squeeze out as much liquid as possible and leave to drip dry.
5. Once the fabric is dry, it’s best to be patient and let the fabric sit for at least a week (the longer the better) before rinsing. This should help with the fastness of the dye.
6. Once I’ve rinsed the fabric, I usually put it on a short wash cycle in the washing machine, then let the fabric dry naturally. Then it’s ready to use for whatever you’d like!
Truly
Ethical Clothing
Four statement staple shoes you can’t live without this year
Ahlume Monese
Shoes are a total mood changer and every girl’s best friend, so it’s natural to want to stay a step ahead of the crowd with the season’s must-haves. But before you put excess strain on your credit card, make sure you have statement staples. What do we mean by statement staples? You want to look out for basic, essential shoes with an edge. This way, you will have wardrobe essentials that will last you many more seasons. Here’s how:
1. The ugly sneaker
First of all, is it still considered an ‘ugly’ sneaker when everyone around the world is swooning over it? This not-so-ugly ugly baby is a major game changer because its drama uplifts any basic denim and T-shirt outfit. Shelflife South Africa is currently retailing this affordable Adidas version of the Yeezy Wave Runner and infamous Balenciaga Triple S. Many are fearful of this trend because of its bulkiness and loud colours, but then again, who doesn’t like a norm-core touch to their outfit?
Adidas sneakers R2 599
2. Animal print
Steve Madden heels R1 399
People tend to shy away from animal print but the trick to making it work is to pair it with black, anything white, or gold accessories. These Steve Madden heels are textured and have a classic sex appeal, thanks to the flattering d’Orsay cut, which elegantly reveals your foot.
Spitz boot R6 899
3. A stylish sock boot
Who knew that ‘sophisticated’ and ‘sock boot’ could be in one sentence. Well, think again, because Spitz is eradicating the Kardashian stigma we attached to this boot. What we love about this shoe is that it can be worn by women of all ages with basically anything. The detailingalso sets the shoe apart from most sock boots and gives it character.
Steve Madden loafers R3 399
4. The loafer
Honestly, loafers are like the Chucks or tennis shoes of officewear. They’re so versatile and timeless that they easily work with any outfit. And this style of shoe can be a discreet cheat to achieving both comfort and style when paired with a crisp, white shirt and cropped joggers.
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My CAND’D Fashion Events Calendar 2018
From local fashion weeks, to trade shows, to exhibitions; knowing what events are happening will keep your fashion credentials sky-high. Whether you are a student, a professional or just a fashion enthusiast, these are the key events that need to go in your diary.
1 st
Thu, 05 - Sat, 07 May 2018 South African Menswear Week Cape Town
5 th
Sat, 07 - Sun, 08 May 2018 Old Biscuit Mill Trunk Show Cape Town
12 th
18 May 2018 SAFW Luxury Designer Pop Up Durban
23 rd
Thu, 28 - Sat, 30 May 2018 South African Menswear Week Cape Town
May
Fri, 01 May - Sun, 03 May 2018 Knysna Fashion Fabric Festival
Knysna
Fri, 05 May - Sun, 08 May 2018 Professional Beauty Convention
Port Elizabeth
Sat,- Mon, 14 May 2018 Jewellex International
Johannesburg
Sat,23 - Mon, 25 May 2018 SAFW Trade Event
Johannesburg
29 th Our
Fri, 29 - Sat, 30 May 2018 Bridal Expo Krugersdorp
highlight
Sat, 23 - Mon, 25 May 2018 SAFW Trade Event
Johannesburg
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until next time.
