14 minute read
DAY 1: LJUBLJANA WALKING TOUR
• Distance: 7.2 km
• Starting Point: Congress Square
• Finishing Point: Nebotičnik Skyscraper
Ljubljana is by far the best known part of Slovenia. But just because it is the best known part of the country, that does not mean that it is particularly well known in the wider world. Ljubljana has a stunning ability to pleasantly surprise all those who visit here for the first time. Whatever you expect, it is likely that most of your expectations of the city will be confounded. Ljubljana is a difficult city to define and a difficult city to pin down.
The best way to get to known Ljubljana is simply to be open to the possibilities that come your way as you stroll the streets. Perhaps you will be invited to an avant garde art opening, perhaps you will be given a political flyer, hear an amazing musician on a corner or see a woman carrying a bee hive into a building in the graffiti-flecked heart of the city. One of the wonderful things about Ljubljana is that you can never know entirely what to expect. As with any city, the key is knowing where to start when you set out to explore. The following walking tour of Ljubljana is designed as a jumping off point for further explorations. Take this walk and no one knows exactly where it will lead you. Be open to detouring if you see something interesting going on and always keep your eyes open to all possibilities.
Your walking tour of Ljubljana begins at Congress Square. If you have already hired your car from the airport then there is convenient parking nearby.
One of the main central squares in the city, Congress Square was built in 1821 on the site formerly occupied by a Capuchin Monastery. The Monastery was abolished during the reign of the Hapsburg Emperor Joseph II. The square is named for the fact that it was used for ceremonial purposes during the Congress of Ljubljana, after which a park was laid out in the middle of the space. This square is highly symbolic for the local people and has played an important role in its history. Independence from Austrian-Hungarian rule was proclaimed here during a mass demonstration in 1918. Other historic speeches have since taken place here.
Kongresni trg, Ljubljana // GPS: 46.0502, 14.5038
Exit Congress Square at its north eastern corner and walk north/ north east on Wolfova ulica. Continue along that pedestrian street for around 150m and you will find yourself on Prešernov trg. You will see your next destination across the square to your left.
BSt Francis Church of the Annunciation is one of the major buildings lining Prešernov Square, another of the important open spaces of the city centre. This is a pedestrian zone and one of the city's main meeting points. Many events take place here each year and it underwent a major renovation in 2007. The baroque style church dates from the 17th Century and presides over the palaces that were built around the square in the late 19th and early 20th Century.
St Francis Church of the Annunciation, Prešernov Trg, Ljubljana // GPS: 46.051532, 14.505894
Upon leaving the church, turn right and pass the statue to your right. Ahead of you, you will see 3 bridges crossing the Ljubljanica River.
The Three Bridges is a triumvirate of bridges that cross the river Ljubljanica between the modern city of Ljubljana and the mediaeval core of the old town on the far bank. All three bridges have been part of the Ljubljana pedestrian zone sine 2007. The bridges as they now stand are to the design of famous Slovene architect Jože Plečnik and were built in 1931-32 on the site of an older river crossing. The oldest bridge currently standing dates from 1842.
When you have crossed the river, turn right and then left onto Stritarjeva ulica. Continue on that street for around 100 m. You will see the fountain ahead of you.
The Robbov of Robba Fountain was commissioned by Francesco Robba in 1743 and was unveiled in 1751. It was inspired by the Fountain of the Four Rivers in Rome and yet modelled on the Fontana del Pantheon. Interestingly, the fountain seen here today is actually only a replica of the original, which has been moved into the National Gallery. Replica or not, it is one of the most recognisable symbols of the city.
GPS: 46.050114,14.506978
Facing the fountain, turn left and walk approximately 100 m on Ciril-Metodov trg. You will see the cathedral on your left.
Officially called St. Nicholas's Church, Ljubljana Cathedral was built on the site of an earlier Gothic Cathedral in the early 18th century. A Romanesque church which was definitely standing in 1262 used to occupy the site. This was significantly altered after a fire in 1361 and further alterations took place 100 years later when the church became a Cathedral. That cathedral was burnt down by Turks in 1469. The current Baroque building was constructed between 1701 and 1706 and was consecrated in 1707. The building interior is notable for its beautiful painted ceiling and there are interesting features on the metal doors.
Ljubljana Cathedral, Dolničarjeva ulica 1, Ljubljana // GPS:46.050556, 14.507778 // http://lj-stolnica.rkc.si/
Continue east along Ciril-Metodov trg for 70m or so and then continue for a further 45m on Vodnikov trg. Turn right onto Študentovska ulica and continue onto Za ograjami. After 120m, turn left onto Ovinki and enjoy the pleasant uphill walk towards the castle. When you see the castle parking ahead of you, take a sharp right to enter the castle complex.
Alternatively, you can take the funicular railway to avoid the effort of walking up to the castle.
The Ljubljana Castle Funicular carries 33 people up the hill to the castle in just one minute and departs every 10 minutes. The difference in elevation between the top and bottom is less than 70 m. From Jan-March and in November, the funicular runs from 10 am-8 pm, in April, May and October it runs from 9 am-9 pm, from June to September it runs 9 am-11 pm and in December it runs 10am to 10pm daily. There is a charge and you can choose a one way or return ticket.
Ljubljana Castle dates from the 15th century. It is not only an interesting historical site but also a venue for many cultural events throughout the year. You can enter the castle courtyard free of charge, enjoy a cup of coffee and a cake, see some galleries and art exhibitions and purchase traditional Slovene handicraft items. There’s also a chapel and viewing tower where you can see a virtual documentary about the castle's history. (Of which more below.) There is also a museum of Slovene History and – one of our favourites in Slovenia – a restaurant in the tower.
Ljubljana Castle, Grajska planota 1, Ljubljana // GPS: 46.0489, 14.5084 // See website for opening hours and details of guided tours // Free entry to some sections, charge for guided tours // www.ljubljanskigrad.si
Virtualni Muzej or virtual museum offers a virtual tour of the castle and its history from pre-history to the present day. It is available in a wide range of languages and allows visitors to the castle to learn more about all the varied elements of its cultural and architectural development.
Virtualni Muzej, Ljubljana Castle, Grajska planota 1, Ljubljana // GPS: 46.0489, 14.5084 // Free entry // www.ljubljanskigrad.si
Walk south from the castle on Razgledna steza and then continue onto Grajska planota. After 120 m, take a slight right towards Osojna pot and follow the path. After 120 m, turn right onto Osojna pot then, after 230 m, continue down onto Reber, a narrow alley leading you back down towards the river. At the end of the winding alleyway you will come out onto Stari trg. Turn right and you will see the fountain after around 55 m.
Herculov Fountain in the middle of Levstikov trg, off Stari trg is a popular meeting place in the summer months. As with the Robbov Fountain, this is actually a replica of the original 17th century statue, which now resides in the town hall. Levstikov trg was created when a Jesuit college that stood on the site burned down. Stari trg and the surrounding area are the oldest part of Ljubljana city centre. This is a good place to take some photographs and perhaps stop for a few minutes to take in the scenic old town.
Located on Stari Trg, the Stična mansion was built between 1628 and 1630, to house the abbots of a Cistertian monastery in the village of Stična. It has seen several architectural alterations over the years, most notably work done on the facade in the 18th century. It is not possible to see the inside of the building, which is now part of the music academy but is interesting to view from the exterior as it is one of the largest mansions in the old town.
Continue north on Stari trg for 83m then turn left onto Pod Tranco and you will see the bridge ahead of you.
The Cobbler's Bridge is one of the oldest bridges crossing the river Ljubljanica in Ljubljana. It dates from the 13th century, if not before. In the Middle Ages this bridge was known as the Upper bridge. Originally, the bridge was a wooden structure. There was a butcher's shop on the bridge but the stench of meat was so bad that the Emperor paid to have the occupiers relocated. Shoemakers moved into the former butcher's booth and gave the bridge its current name. Many bridges have crossed this part of the river since this first wooden structure, many lost due to floods or fires. The current stone bridge was built by Jože Plečnik and was installed here in 1931.
GPS: 46.0484, 14.5056
When you have crossed the river, turn left and then take the next right turn onto Novi trg. After just under 100 m, turn left onto Gosposka ulica and you will find your next destination on the right after approximately 90 m.
Located in the grand and impressive Auersperg Palace, the City Museum holds a wealth of cultural heritage related to the history of Ljubljana, from its earliest occupants, who lived in a prehistoric pile dwelling here 4,500 years ago to the lively present day capital, with plenty in between. A Roman road is preserved in the museum's basement.
City Museum, Gosposka ulica 15, Ljubljana // GPS:46.0468025,14.5041199 // Paid entry // www.mgml.si
Exiting the city museum, ahead of you, you will see Križanke, an interesting concert venue with a fascinating past.
Križanke Outdoor Theatre is one of Ljubljana's important cultural venues. It is a theatre in the courtyard of the former Monastery of the Holy Cross and is used for many events, not least during the summer festivals. It is always worthwhile checking out what is going on there to see if there is anything you would like to see.
Križanke Outdoor Theatre, Trg francoske revolucije 1, Ljubljana // GPS: 46.0469, 14.5036 // See website for details of events // www.ljubljanafestival.si
Head north on Gosposka ulica and continue for 290 m. Turn left onto Kongresni trg and you will find your next intriguing destination on your left after 85 m.
The Museum of Illusions is a bit of fun and whimsy to give some levity between all the important historic and cultural attractions. Here you can see a number of illusions that play tricks on the eye and the mind and allow you to contemplate the limits of personal perception. Grow taller or smaller in the Ames Room, see the anti-gravity room where everything seems to defy natural laws and enjoy a whole host of other mind-bending optical illusions.
Museum of Illusions, Kongresni trg 13, Ljubljana // GPS: 46.0496, 14.5034 // Paid entry // http://muzejiluzij.si/
Turn left out of the museum and walk west towards Slovenska cesta. Across that road and slightly to the left you will see one of the grandest churches in the city.
Built between 1718 and 1726, the baroque Ursuline Church of the Holy Trinity is an unusual and striking building. The interior as well as the exterior offers some interesting features, including a massive marble altarpiece by Robba, who created the Robbov fountain that you visited earlier on this walking tour. There are also paintings by Slovene artist Valentin Metzinger. Just across the road from the church is the Holy Trinity Column, erected to replace a wooden structure in 1693 in thanks that a plague did not destroy the town.
Ursuline Church of the Holy Trinity, Slovenska cesta 21, Ljubljana // GPS: 46.0499, 14.5023 // Free entry // www.ljubljana.info/sights/ursuline-church
Walk north on Slovenska cesta for almost 60m then turn left onto Plečnikov trg to reach your next destination.
The Slovene Ethnographic Museum is Slovenia's foremost ethnographic museum. It is dedicated to representing the cultural heritage of Slovenes and ethnic minorities and has a permanent collection of over 3,000 items in a treasure trove of an exhibition. It is also home to a weavers' workshop, a shop and a cafe.
Slovene Ethnographic Museum, Metelkova ulica 2, Ljubljana // GPS: 46.055054, 14.516228 // Paid entry // www.etnomuzej.si/
Walk west on Plečnikov trg then cut through the shopping centre onto Republic Square.
Republic Square is the largest public square in the city. It was designed in the latter half of the 20th Century by Edvard Ravnikar and was originally known as Revolution Square. The Independence of Slovenia was declared here on the 26th of June 1991. To the north of the square is the National Assembly Building.
GPS: 46.050747,14.500356
From the north end of Republic Square, turn left onto Šubičeva ulica. After 140 m, turn right onto Prešernova cesta and you will find the next museum on your list on your right after almost 60 m.
This grand building houses not one museum but two – the National Museum and the Natural History Museum of Slovenia. There is a wealth of fascinating exhibits here and it is surely a must-see for every visitor to the city, whether you visit both museums, only one, or opt to see the single curiosity of the Egyptian mummy for just 0.5 Euros. Next to the main museum building you will find an exhibition of the Roman period which is entirely free to enter.
National Museum & Natural History Museum of Slovenia, Musejska ulica 1, Ljubljana // GPS: 46.0521, 14.4993 // Paid entry // www.narmuz-lj.si
Walk north on Prešernova cesta. After 130 m, turn left onto Cankarjeva cesta and you will find the art gallery on your left.
One of the most important art galleries in Slovenia, the Gallery of Modern Art houses a wide range of Slovenian artworks from the 20th and 21st centuries. It first opened to the public in 1948 and in 2011 was expanded with the Metelkova Museum of Contermporary Art. The building was designed by Edvard Ravnikar.
Gallery of Modern Art, Cankarjeva Cesta, Ljubljana // GPS: 46.053197, 14.4988 // Paid entry // http://www.mg-lj.si
Return to Prešernova cesta and turn left. The next gallery to visit will be on your right after 100 m.
If older, more classical art is more to your taste then of course the National Gallery of Slovenia is a must-see while you are in the city. This museum houses a wide range of paintings dating from the late Mediaeval period to the early 20th Century. This gallery was founded in 1918 and moved to its present location in 1925.
National Gallery of Slovenia, Prešernova cesta 24, Ljubljana // GPS: 46.053611, 14.5 // Paid entry // www.ng-slo.si shop.travual.com
After visiting the National Gallery, continue along Prešernova cesta and then turn left and take the underpasses under the road and railway track (checking out all the graffiti art as you walk through) to reach Tivoli park.
Tivoli Park is the largest park in the city of Ljubljana and is a protected area. There are a number of notable buildings and artworks within the park, including Tivoli Castle. There is an attractive pond and near the pond, a greenhouse and rose garden operated by Ljubljana botanical gardens, a playground for children and a number of interesting sculptures. Tivoli park was first laid out in 1813 and the pond was excavated in 1880.
GPS: 46.053889, 14.496667
Once you have had your fill of the park and have enjoyed a stroll on some of the pretty paths that thread this green part of the city, return through the underpasses and continue onto Puharjeva ulica. After 160 m, turn right onto Župančičeva ulica then, after 60 m, turn left onto Štefanova ulica. Continue on that road for 180 m then turn right. Your final destination on this walking tour will be on the right after 50 m.
The name says it all. Nebotičnik Skyscraper is “the skyscraper” and is a dominant building in the city's skyline. Love it or loath it, this tower is a symbol of the city. It was constructed between 1931 and 1933 and opened its doors on 21st February 1933. It has 13 storeys and a height of 70.35 m. At the time it was the tallest building in the country and ninth tallest in Europe. It is home to a range of shops and businesses and at the top you will find a cafe, bar and observation deck with great views out over the city.
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Ljubljana highlights not included in the walking tour
In addition to this walking tour, it is recommended that you spend some time, if you have it, enjoying the stroll along the riverside through the heart of the old town of Ljubljana. In addition to sights already mentioned on the above tour, you can see:
The Dragon Bridge (Zmajski most) appears in the photographs of most tourists who visit Ljubljana because of its fun dragon sculptures. This art deco masterpiece was created in 1901 – the first structure in this style in this city. It crosses the Ljubljanica River between Kopitar Street and Ressel Street. The dragon represents the power, courage and greatness of the city
Dragon Bridge, Ljubljana // GPS: 46.0519606,14.5104329
Plečnik’s Colonnaded Market was built to the designs of the famous architect between 1940 and 1944, this central market is a great place to pick up some fresh, organic local produce from nearby Slovenian farms and other local delicacies. It is a fantastic place to learn more about Slovenian food
Plečnik’s Colonnaded Market, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia // GPS: 46.0513624, 14.5096148 // www.lpt.si/trznice
Opened in 2010, the Butcher's Bridge links the central market with the other side of the Ljubljanica River. It has a simple design and is populated with a number of statues from Ancient Greek and Christian/Jewish mythology, including Adam and Eve, satyr and prometheus. There are also some smaller sculptures on the fence, frogs and some shellfish and key locks decorating the sides of the bridge.
Butcher's Bridge, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia // GPS: 46.051761,14.508761
Along the river you will find plenty of places to enjoy an ice cream during summer, a meal or a drink as the sun goes down over this green and peaceful city. The friendly atmosphere and tables set up outside along the pedestrian riverside walks make this feel a bit like a street party and the young and lively atmosphere of this University city means that it would be a shame to have too early a night. You may also like to check out the city's alternative heart:
Metelkova City is one of the largest and most successful urban squats in Europe and if that does not sound too promising for a night out think again. This abandoned army base has become the beating heart of alternative culture in Slovenia – a self-declared autonomous city that hosts over 1,500 events each year. At night thousands of students, creatives and artists congregate here and Metelkova has come to hold a special place in the hearts and minds of local people.
For those who have ever dreamed of spending a night in jail, you can do it here. You can stay at the Hostel Celica which was once a real prison.
Metelkova ulica 10, Ljubljana // GPS: 46.057165, 14.517011