3 minute read

China’s Favorite Liquor

Next Article
Snow Wonder

Snow Wonder

ADVENTUROUS PALATES IN THE U.S. ARE DISCOVERING BAIJIU, A CLEAR GRAIN ALCOHOL WITH A TASTE THAT’S HARD TO PUT INTO

WORDS. By Darius Amos

MING RIVER SICHUAN BAIJIU

A gold prize winner at New York World Wine & Spirits and San Francisco World Wine & Spirits competitions, this is one of the most popular baijius. It has hints of papaya and guava on the nose, a spicy taste and a long, earthy finish.

Every Thursday since September 2021, the ultra-hip Backbar in Boston’s eclectic Union Square neighborhood has held a ticketed, pop-up event with a vibe straight out of a Prohibition-era speakeasy. What’s served at the Boston Baijiu Bar, as it’s called by those in the know, isn’t illegal, but it is something of a rarity here in the States. That’s remarkable, given that it’s the most popular liquor on Earth.

Baijiu (pronounced bye-joe) is the national spirit of China, a fact that helps explain the numbers. Vodka, whisky, tequila? In worldwide consumption they don’t even come close. Only soju, South Korea’s top-selling booze and a kind of kindred spirit, even gives baijiu a run for its money.

This clear grain alcohol (baijiu translates to “white spirit”) with roots back in the Ming Dynasty (1368 to 1644 A.D.) is distilled from fermented sorghum and sometimes grains such as rice and corn. Fermentation is propelled by a combination of yeast, bacteria and, according to some studies, more than 50 mold varieties. Then distillers blend ingredients together and develop the flavor profile.

Baijiu is potent; when CBS newsman Dan Rather quaffed it 50 years ago while covering President Nixon’s trip to China, he pronounced it “liquid razor blades.” Its taste may strike Westerners at first as weird. But its very uniqueness—added to a growing impulse to broaden palates—helps explain why it’s developing a following outside Asian markets in cities like New York and London as well as Boston.

The liquor is typically classified into four different fragrances—rice, light, strong and sauce—that indicate specific flavors. The mildest flavor, rice, has nutty and ricey notes that make it an easier-entry choice for baijiu rookies. The stronger flavors have more complex palates suggestive of overripe tropical fruit, anise and spicy peppercorn.

Baijius range between 80 and 120 proof, so this is one spirit you won’t want to drink quickly. Though you probably won’t swap out tequila for baijiu in a margarita, the Chinese liquor does mix well in tropical cocktails and with bitter and spicy ingredients. At Backbar it’s often served in small glasses in multiple rounds with meals. Lighter baijius pair well with chicken and seafood, while the strong-aroma varieties are best served with hot and spicy food—think Indian curry or hot stir-fried noodles to replicate an authentic experience of Chinese Sichuan. Now that’s a flavor we know and love!

BAIJIU BY THE BOTTLE

FENJIU BAIJIU

It’s no surprise that this brand, often referred to as the “grandfather of Chinese spirits,” is one of the most popular in China, a nation known for its respect for elders. The drink is also celebrated for its light floral and jasmine aroma and soft and sweet taste of melon and herbs.

LUZHOU LAOJIAO BAINIAN BAIJIU

Its name means century, but the tradition of processing baijiu in Luzhou cellars goes well beyond 100 years. Those lucky enough to try this spirit experience a fermented peach aroma that gives way to a subtly floral palate and a smooth finish.

KWEICHOW MOUTAI

Considered one of China’s premium brands, this baijiu is typically used during celebratory toasts. Its aroma and taste are both described as resembling soy sauce, pear and almond with a smooth, cocoa-powder finish. BACHENDORF’S 77

This article is from: