Sustainable Sips

To the delight of Bergen oenophiles, wineries in three nations far apart are proving that production need not imperil the planet. By Robert Beringela

Strip away the fuss and the fancy trappings, and you realize that winemaking begins with farming, an earthy, unpretentious practice, rooted in the rhythms of the seasons. It depends on nature’s cooperation— on clean water and healthy soil, on robust vines and pristine fruit. No wonder, in an industry known for reds and whites, so many properties are going “green.” The shift is evident around the globe, from emergent wine regions in the Southern Hemisphere to oldworld appellations in northern Italy: Sustainability is the order of the day, as wineries embrace innovative measures that allow them to tread more lightly on the land. Beneficial to the environment, the results are also good for consumers, giving rise to wines that are uniquely expressing of their surroundings. Here are three ecominded wineries, their flagship labels—and info about how Bergenites can get their hands on them.

SEÑA WINERY, CHILE.

In 1995, Robert Mondavi and the Chilean vintner Eduardo Chadwick collaborated on a pioneering project. Their goal: to produce a world-class Chilean wine, handcrafted in the manner of a Bordeauxstyle blend. On a sun-kissed hillside in the Aconcagua Valley, less than 20 miles from the Pacific Ocean, the pair began cultivating Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and other classic red varieties. But to give these Gallic grapes a vivid sense of origin, they made their vineyards biodynamic, which is like organic, only more; it limits outside interference by drawing on natural materials from the property itself. In that way, Seña operates as a self-contained ecosystem, using sprays and fertilizers made from its own composted materials. Along with healthier soil, the approach creates a robust canopy, with resilient vines that can stand up better to drought and heat, and fruit that speaks directly to its terroir. Flagship wine: Seña 2019. $125. Tasting notes: This reddish-purple wine lives up to its looks with complex aromas of dark berries and plum. Those same traits are apparent on the palate. This is lush and elegant wine that marries well with hearty roasts but also drinks beautifully on its own. Buy it: Total Wine & More, River Edge, 201.968.1777

VILLA MARIA, NEW ZEALAND.

With its low population density, high levels of government regulation and large swaths of postcard-worthy open spaces, New Zealand has a reputation for clean, green living. Not for nothing is the country’s tourism slogan “100 Percent Pure New Zealand.” Against this backdrop, Villa Maria is right at home. Founded as a small Auckland operation in 1961, the winery has gained a global reach, but its carbon footprint keeps shrinking, thanks to recycled glass in its bottles, organic practices in its vineyards and an all-electric fleet of forklifts, in place for the past 11 years. The winery’s packing suppliers are all located within 10 miles of the bottling plant, further minimizing environmental impact. On track to eliminate every bit of waste it sends to landfills within the next three years, Villa Maria also expects to run on 100-percent renewable energy by 2035. Flagship wine: 2014 Villa Maria Ngakirikiri Cabernet Sauvignon. $100 Tasting notes: Intense aromas of plum and cassis give way to concentrated dark berry flavors in a lush-textured, full-bodied wine that will only gain in complexity from cellaring over the next 10 to 15 years. Buy it: Gary’s Wine & Marketplace, Closter, 201.297.5000

ENDRIZZI WINERY, ITALY.

Located in Trentino, in the shadow of the Dolomites, Endrizzi fertilizes the old-fashioned way: without chemicals. Manure and other organic materials are used instead. Herbicides have no place on the property either; weeds are kept at bay through cutting and plowing. Pests are managed naturally too. With nest boxes clustered throughout its vineyards, Endrizzi is a haven for chickadees, redstarts, sparrows, robins and bats, which gobble up leafhoppers, grapevine moths and other undesired insects. To protect against fungi and powdery mildew, copper, sulfur and other naturally occurring elements are employed. These and other practices took root at Endrizzi in the 1980s, long before sustainability became an industry buzzword. In the decades since, the winery’s eco-friendly commitment has only deepened. To preserve water, irrigation only happens in extreme emergencies, and harvesting is humanpowered: Every grape on property is handpicked. Flagship wine: Endrizzi Masetto Privé, $85. Tasting notes: With a golden straw color and fine bubbles, this elegant sparkling wine is complex and savory, with a long, delightful finish. It’s excellent with aged cheeses, roast duck and light roasts. Buy it: endrizzi.it