SIX DEGREES OF COGNAC

Why is this spirit so hip? Exacting production and ageing standards tell part of the tale.

Crime novelist Mickey Spillane had a ready reason why his fictional hero, detective Mike Hammer, so often drank beer: “Because I can’t spell cognac.” But today pop culture has discovered the spirit, orthography be damned. Cognac is one of the most popular sips among the most influential stars. Appreciating a fine glass of XO is a sure sign of sophistication and taste, and its authenticity and no-compromises production are a big part of its appeal.

Cognac is a complex beverage with a 500year history, and it takes its name from the area in southwest France where it is made under a set of strict guidelines. Brandies can be produced all over, but only those from Cognac itself may bear that moniker. Blends are composed of various eaux-de-vie (“waters of life”) and twice copper-distilled wine (at least 90 percent Ugni Blanc varietal) that must age for a minimum of two years in oak (Limousin or Tronçais only, s’il vous plaît). The six blends on the following pages rest for much, much longer, however. A “young” cognac is still a delectable and smooth experience, but age brings the elixir to another level. Kick back with a snifter and the things you enjoy most in life—you may not be jet-setting in a G6 like some of cognac’s biggest fans, but you’ll feel on top of the world. (A quick note on nomenclature: Until only last year, for a cognac to be deemed XO—extra old—required that the youngest blend component have remained in oak for six years. But that minimum was raised to 10 years—cognacs with threads below that age now receive the Napoléon grade, the next one down.)

By Harry Dowden

LOUIS XIII

Beloved by iconic singer Rihanna, Louis XIII is one of the most exceptional cognacs available. One hundred percent of the wines distilled for this blend are from grapes grown in the Grande Champagne cru, the premier subsection of six in the region whose harvests can be tapped for the beverage.

Each bottle of Louis XIII contains 1,200 blend components, meticulously sifted through and chosen. This is after only a “small” portion of eaux-de-vie are selected for the elusive path. The kicker? The cognac’s age makes a long-inthe-tooth 10-year XO minimum look like the blink of an eye. The minimum age for a LXIII blend component is 40 years, and some threads surpass the century-old mark.

The impressive age inspires a wide array of tasting notes, from the tropical to the earthy. The extended process has also lent the team a long-term vision that allows for careful consideration of processes, and an examination of our engagement with the passage of time. A collaborative effort with rapper and cognac connoisseur Pharrell Williams titled “100 Years” is both an homage to the lengthy creation process of the esteemed cognac and a plea to those who’d wish to pass on the tradition: a song, locked away, that will automatically release in 2117—if climate change and sea-level rise permit.

Recommended pairing: Barring dramatic medical advances, most of us won’t be able to hear what could be Mr. Williams’ magnum opus. Instead, spin a copy of Random Access Memories from another of France’s finest exports, the electronic music duo Daft Punk. Their retro-futuristic sounds will lay the perfect backdrop for the waves of flavor that a glass of Louis XIII offers.

COURVOISIER XO

A focus on techniques from the house of Courvoisier leads to an incredibly smooth product. Working closely with many growers across four crus, producers take pride every step of the way. That is reflected not just in the distillate, but also in the oak that houses it. For both grape and wood, the process begins from the ground up. Two-hundredyear-old oak is selected by in-house coopers, and staves are dried for three years before the barrels are complete. A year’s worth of grapes undergo primary fermentation before they are ready for cognac’s signature double distillation.

Sipping straight will be an immersive experience filled with big floral notes alongside caramel and dried citrus—think snacking on candied orange in a lush meadow. If you choose to mix it up a bit, Courvoisier recommends a classic sidecar: 5 parts cognac, 2 parts triple sec, 2 parts lemon juice, shaken well and strained.

Recommended pairing: Take a listen to milea-minute wordsmith Busta Rhymes’ early-aughts party hit, “Pass the Courvoisier Part II.” Pharrell Williams’ hook and his production as part of The Neptunes are just as smooth as the indelible beverage.

HENNESSY MARC NEWSON

Bold yet smooth, rich yet filled with subtleties, Hennessy has made a name as a luxury beverage of choice among creatives across different media. Arguably the first to use the XO distinction, Henny, as it’s lovingly referred to, is an excellent sipper and all-around cognac.

Notably using only the Ugni Blanc varietal, each bottle of Hennessy XO comprises 100 blending components. This depth of composition has led to a specific set of seven flavor notes that describe the journey through a pour of the elixir: Sweet Notes, Rising Heat, Spicy Edge, Flowing Flame, Chocolate Lull, Wood Crunches and Infinite Echo. These notes were deemed so evocative that acclaimed director Ridley Scott was commissioned to compose a sci-fi tribute exploring each of the “Seven Worlds.”

The special Marc Newson edition of the XO is another shining example of Hennessy’s collaborative spirit, showing a commitment to an aesthetic that prizes presentation alongside flavor. The designer’s reworking of the distinctive decanter utilizes horizontal striations to visually highlight both glass and liquid, and creates a uniquely textured object that reflects cognac’s many facets.

Recommended pairing: Savor a glass or two while watching Scott’s sci-fi watershed Blade Runner. Get your hands on 2007’s The Final Cut to appreciate the director’s true vision for the film as you do the same with the work of Hennessy’s blenders.

HARDY XO RARE

In a landscape of limited edition blends, many of which focus on the design of the bottle itself, Hardy has to be hailed not just for excellent cognac but also for refined aesthetics. Founded in the region by an English ex-pat, the house takes influence not just from the spirit’s production, but from other sources of specifically French creativity.

Claiming a haute couture philosophy and decidedly feminine influences, Hardy produces cognac filtered through the lens of an atelier: Scents are cited as heavy stylistic influences, with tasting notes leaning toward the floral, and carafe designs explicitly influenced by bottles of fine perfume.

Early collaborations with the Cristallerie Daum studio have resulted in beautiful collectibles whose contents are as intoxicating as their containers. Recent works with the Lalique brand highlight the seasons, paying homage to the passage of time so crucial to cognac and the springlike bouquet it can offer.

Recommended pairing: Damozels & Deities is the most recent volume on 19thcentury stained glass from researcher William Waters and photographer Alastair CarewCox. Take in the beauty that glass working can achieve while savoring the bouquet of Hardy XO.

RÉMY MARTIN XO

This is a classic take on the spirit and one that has showed immense staying power. The blend, with up to 400 components, is referred to as a Cognac Fine Champagne—its grapes sourced exclusively from vineyards in two of the region’s crus, Grande Champagne (50 percent+) and Petite Champagne. The particular soil’s terroir encourages the level of ripeness in the grapes that makes the wine well suited for the 24-hour double distillation process.

The eaux-de-vie that are produced from the distillation processes each year can number in the thousands, but many will not meet the standards required for them to be set down for a transformation in oak.

Years later, we are finally able to taste the product of this patience, hard work and informed selection. A drop of water can open up the cognac and enhance some of the more subtle fruity and spicy aromatics, just as it does with a fine whisky. Fatty cheeses and bold dark chocolates are among the great foods that pair well with cognac, but for its own XO, Rémy Martin recommends figs—a sweet treat that will bring out dried fruit flavors in the liquid that only time can develop.

If you want your cognac consumption to be a truly cinematic experience, check out the limited-edition XO packaging for the Cannes Film Festival. A pointillist take on the Rémy logo evokes the bright lights of a marquee and the flash of the paparazzi.

Recommended pairing: Kick back and take in the movie Port Authority, whose cast and crew made history voguing across the red carpet at Cannes. The film is a chronicle of romance in the NYC ballroom scene, whose traditions and uncompromising creativity will pair well with the warmth in your glass.

HINE ANTIQUE XO PREMIER CRU

For more than 250 years, the house of Hine has patiently crafted fine cognacs. One of its main tenets is “finesse”—a word with deep history that has maintained relevance, much like cognac itself, and come to represent a certain sense of style and cool. So how does one finesse excellent cognac out of the soil? For Hine’s Antique XO, it means a blend of 40 distinct eauxde-vies, crafted exclusively from Grande Champagne grapes, and an average component age of 20 years.

The producers cite Cyrano de Bergerac and acclaimed Bach pianist Glenn Gould as inspirations/accompaniments for the blend. As with other producers, there is a crossover of disciplines and lifestyles that inform the making of the cognac—a balance between savoir faire and joie de vivre, a commitment to technique, and of course, a bit of finesse. This blend has a wonderful spice character, lending a particular boldness that evokes Cyrano’s noted panache.

Recommended pairing: Light up a Macanudo Cru Royale while you savor a glass; the cigar’s bold yet balanced flavor will stand up to the cognac without overpowering it. The two powerhouses working together deliver maximum enjoyment.