Kilgore Trout Spring/Summer 2020 by Wainscot Media

S/S 2020 KILGORETROUT.COM

SS 20 20 F ORU M / THE SU B STA N CE OF STYLE

U N H U R R I E D. UNC O M M O N.

Unhurried. UNCOMMON. CLEVELAND’S STYLE LEADER

KILGORETROUT.COM

WHAT’S IN STORE? DESIGNERS, POP-UPS AND MORE A SIP OF AMERICANA: BOURBON MAKES A COMEBACK

CELEBRATING ETON BLUE: THE SOPHISTICATED MICRO PRINT

CONTENTS

spring/ summer 2020

28 68 FEATURES 10

THE ISAIA IDEA

I CON: EDDIE REDMAYNE

ART: DRESSING FOR THE PART

66 INDULGENCES:

FASHION 6

SHADES OF SPRING

ELEMENTS OF STYLE

THE ARTFUL BLAZER

ARCHI/TEXTURE

IND WHAT SUITS F YOU!

ROUT FOR HER: T MUST-HAVES FOR SPRING/SUMMER

ROUT FOR HIM: T MUST-HAVES FOR SPRING/SUMMER

CART BLANCHE 68 D RINK

UP!: BOURBONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S NEW MOMENT

DEPARTMENTS Welcome Letter 4 Ask Forum 5 Events & Pop-Ups 70 Kilgore Trout at Your Service 72 Final Stitch: The Munro Doctrine 2

Cleveland got a standing ovation and cheers for an encore when Kilgore Trout hosted the Apparel Forum, an exclusive group of the nation’s top retailers.

pring greetings and welcome to the new issue of Kilgore Trout magazine. Most of us have shown off some of Cleveland’s museums to out-of-town guests, and the Rock Hall is one of my perennial favorites. Last fall, we treated our fellow members of Apparel Forum to a tour during their whirlwind visit. We also wined and dined at the Marble Room (the space blew everyone away), and Il Venetian with masterful host Tommy Sinito. At Parallax, the food, along with Julian Bruell’s outstanding hospitality, rocked our guests’ world! These retailers hail from some of the nation’s great stores—Wilkes Bashford, Mitchells, Stanley Korshak, Larrimor’s—and collectively, the 14 member companies set the bar for luxury apparel retailing in America. We’re honored to be a longtime member. Twice each year, we meet to share best practices, review trends, coordinate group purchases in both the U.S. and Europe and discuss economic impacts on our industry. We provide one another an ad hoc advisory board, and together we publish this magazine—each customizing the fashion pages to suit our local clientele. It’s a big undertaking. This is Kilgore Trout’s 45th semi-annual issue, the 34th collaborating with Christopher Hixson, our local editor and designer. Collaboration is a major part of our business success, whether nationally with our Apparel Forum team, internationally with our extensive team of clothing vendors or locally with our team of style advisors, outside sales envoy Giovanni Carrelli and others behind the scenes. Together, we help our clients build exceptional wardrobes while enjoying camaraderie, mutual trust and respect every step of the way. We’re always eager to make a relationship that lasts. In the end, you’re our most important collaborator. Enjoy the magazine, and we hope to see you often this spring. We appreciate your business.

Wally Naymon, Shopkeeper P.S. Ensure you’ll look your best when the Rock Hall Induction Ceremony returns to Cleveland this spring by planning a visit with your style advisor today.

On the cover: Ermenegildo Zegna for him, L’Agence for her

Apparel Forum members pose in front of the Rock Hall during our Cleveland meeting.

Our Apparel Forum meeting wasn’t all tours and toasts. The group enjoyed a private afternoon coaching session on team building and growth with Cavs head coach John Beilein. Admittedly, Coach Beilein has had a challenging first year in Cleveland. The team is in a rebuilding phase, and Cleveland.com aptly called this a season of self-inflicted wounds. Coach Beilein, an icon in college ball, turned losing teams into winning ones and was voted “most ethical coach” by his peers. As Forbes wrote about Beilein, challenges make the leader. Our team gives Coach a vote of confidence.

PHOTO: MLIVE

memo

LONG LIVE ROCK.

ETON, 28601 CHAGRIN BOULEVARD CLEVELAND, OH 44122 216-831-0488 KILGORETROUT.COM FACEBOOK.COM/KILGORETROUTCLEVELAND Editor in Chief RITA GUARNA Creative Director STEPHEN VITARBO Senior Editor DARIA MEOLI Cleveland Editor CHRISTOPHER HIXSON Senior Associate Editor DARIUS AMOS Lifestyle Editor HALEY LONGMAN Editorial Assistant GIANNA BARONE Contributing Photographers MATT SAYERS, DANIEL SPRINGSTON Editor at Large and Founding Editor KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN Concept Director ANDREW MITCHELL PUBLISHING STAFF Group Publisher SHAE MARCUS Director of Sales MONICA DELLI SANTI National Account Executive JESSICA SALERNO Production Director SUSAN WINDRUM Advertising Services Director JACQUELYNN FISCHER Circulation Manager KATHY WENZLER Graphic Designer, Ad Services VIOLETA MULAJ Production Art Associate CHRIS FERRANTE Accounting AGNES ALVES, MEGAN FRANK APPAREL FORUM ANDRISEN MORTON Denver, CO GARYS Newport Beach, CA HUBERT WHITE Minneapolis, MN KILGORE TROUT Cleveland, OH LARRIMOR’S Pittsburgh, PA MALOUF’S Lubbock / Southlake, TX MARIOS Portland, OR / Seattle, WA MITCHELLS Westport, CT / Huntington, NY MITCHELLS/RICHARDS Greenwich, CT OAK HALL Memphis, TN RODES Louisville, KY RUBENSTEINS New Orleans, LA STANLEY KORSHAK Dallas, TX WILKES BASHFORD San Fran/Palo Alto, CA PUBLISHED BY WAINSCOT MEDIA Chairman CARROLL V. DOWDEN President & CEO MARK DOWDEN Senior Vice Presidents SHAE MARCUS, CARL OLSEN Vice Presidents NIGEL EDELSHAIN, THOMAS FLANNERY, RITA GUARNA, DIANE VOJCANIN

Kilgore Trout is published by Wainscot Media, 1 Maynard Drive, Park Ridge, NJ 07656 in association with Kilgore Trout. Copyright © 2020 by Wainscot Media, LLC. All rights reserved. Editorial Contributions: Write to Editor, Kilgore Trout, 1 Maynard Drive, Park Ridge, NJ 07656. The magazine is not responsible for the return or loss of unsolicited submissions. Subscription Services: To change an address or request a subscription, write to Subscriptions, Kilgore Trout Circulation Department, 1 Maynard Drive, Park Ridge, NJ 07656; telephone 201.573.5541; email kathy.wenzler@wainscotmedia.com. Advertising Inquiries: Contact Shae Marcus at 856.797.2227 or shae.marcus@wainscotmedia.com. Printed in the U.S.A. Volume 23, Issue 1.

ASK FORUM

solving your fashion dilemmas

Dressing Up DENIM

I cherish my denim jacket. Is there a way I can wear it—as well as my favorite pair of jeans—to go from weekends to work? The good news is that denim today isn’t what your dad used to wear. Modern fashion has not only embraced denim but has expanded its use—it’s showing up everywhere from Hollywood movie premieres to business-casual workplaces. The red carpet has few fashion rules, whereas date nights and office settings still have loose guidelines to follow. For starters, be sure jackets fit properly—nothing too baggy or too tight. When considering length, the bottom hem should hit at your hips. A neat denim jacket can work in a business-casual environment, and in many cases it can be worn as a replacement for a sportcoat. For example, wear it over a checked, button-up shirt or a polo that’s paired with dress chinos or khakis. A pair of high-quality jeans will make every guy look good. An indigo or deep blue-gray pair works in almost every setting, as long as the jeans are neat, clean and close-fitting (not skinny). Dress them up with a button-up shirt and either a vest or a V-neck sweater on top if there’s still a chill in the air.

GETTING SNEAKERS Right

My closet is full of leather and suede sneakers. How can I incorporate them into my attire for the office? Every day can feel like casual Friday—even if wearing a suit is still the norm. Go ahead and wear sneakers with tailored clothing, as long as your suit has a slim silhouette and the trousers end just above your ankles. In fact, it’s cool to show off a little ankle too. Leather and suede sneakers always should be clean, meaning free of dirt and excessive branding (save the logos for the basketball court). Your best bet is to stick to a neutral color palette—pare it down to black, brown, navy and white—as it’s easier to cross the line between casual and business with a timeless design.

SUITED for Summer

The weather is getting warmer but I’m not ready to give up wearing a suit. What are my options this season? Most of us are naturally more laid-back in warmer months, especially when it comes to fashion. But that doesn’t mean you should forget about style. Linen and seersucker are the ultimate fabrics for summer suits—they’re both lightweight and breathable, and they’ll look great at an outdoor party. If you’re concerned about wrinkles, which we all know are a feature of linen, try a linen/cotton or linen/wool blend. Still wearing a suit to the office? A great option is a high-twist or fresco wool suit in a lighter shade of blue or gray; this material allows for maximum airflow and will wick away moisture. In a business-casual environment, an unstructured sportcoat in a cotton/linen blend or a jersey knit is a smart alternative that’ll make you feel and look cool. KILGO RE TRO UT S P RING/S U M M ER 2020

in-store

events & POP-UPS MARCH 6-7 Friday-Saturday

Ermenegildo Zegna Made-to-Measure

Join Ermenegildo Zegna made-to-measure specialist Laura Donati for the ultimate Su Misura experience. Discover the newest seasonal fabrics and options for made-to-measure clothing, the Casual Luxury made-to-measure collection and expanded in-stock collections of Ermenegildo Zegna clothing and footwear. Email your style advisor for a personal appointment, or stop in.

APRIL 3-4 Friday-Saturday

Samuelsohn Made-to-Measure with Magnanni Footwear

THROUGH APRIL 4

Our Restaurant Deal Is Back! Spend $500 or more in one Kilgore Trout visit and we’ll reward you with a $100 gift certificate to a Zack Bruell restaurant. It’s our most popular offer, so take advantage soon. Through April 4, 2020 or while supplies last. Not valid with any other offer or discount. One per customer.

Join Dorian Anderson with the curated collection of super-fine wools and intriguing blends of silks and linens, as well as innovative performance weaves, all individually measured, cut and sewn— masterfully crafted to your movement, posture, size and personal style. Plus, the latest from Magnanni. Samuelsohn made-to-measure fees will be waived for orders placed at this event.

APRIL 18 Saturday

Atelier Munro: Customize your Life

Trout Club members earn points* and receive our seasonal magazine by mail

Quimari Majette arrives to provide customized styling advice to help you find the perfect look tailored to your taste and specifications.

Accrue 1 point for every $1 in merchandise purchases, and receive a $50 reward for every 1,000 points. Then spend your reward dollars like cash during redemption periods. *Men’s footwear, alterations, shipping and sales tax are not eligible when earning or redeeming Trout Club points. Visit kilgoretrout.com for full details.

Connect with @kilgoretroutcleveland, or subscribe to our email alerts at kilgoretrout.com/events Kilgore Trout, 28601 Chagrin Boulevard, Cleveland, Ohio 44122 1/2-mile east of Interstate 271/Chagrin Boulevard exit Shop Monday-Saturday 10-6, Thursday 10-7

MAY 2 Saturday

Head to Toe Pop-Up & Small Batch Bourbon Tasting with Trask, Brax and Emanuel Berg Enjoy a bourbon tasting courtesy of Trask while you shop enhanced collections of shirts, trousers and footwear from these favorites.

Trout Club points will be earned on all qualifying purchases at these events.

When you need us, we’re here. Stop by, call us at 216.831.0488 or email your style advisor anytime. Wally Joel Voya

wnaymon@kilgoretrout.com jtstecker@kilgoretrout.com vnenadovic@kilgoretrout.com

Aaron Andrea Laura

ajacobs@kilgoretrout.com anaymon@kilgoretrout.com lganley@kilgoretrout.com

Danielle Janna General

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ddehart@kilgoretrout.com jzborovsky@kilgoretrout.com info@kilgoretrout.com

THE SUB STA N CE OF ST Y L E

must-haves

shades of

SPRING

Not all menswear is neutral this season. Brighten your look with pieces that pop in blue, pink or purple. Photography by Dan Springston

Clockwise from top: button front shirt, Faherty Brand; jeans, Hudson; sunglasses, Zegna; bow tie, R. Hanauer; trainers, Common Projects; pocket square, Eton; belt, Torino; button front shirt, Ermenegildo Zegna.

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Clockwise from top: button front shirt, Peter Millar; ties, Eton; shorts, Faherty Brand; cufflinks, Tateossian; pocket square and polo shirt, Eton.

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must-haves

Clockwise from top: polo shirt, Etro; pants, J Brand; quarter-zip sweater, Peter Millar; tie, pocket squares and button front shirt, Eton.

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profile 10

PHOTO COURTESY OF ISAIA

As a thirdgeneration CEO, Gianluca Isaia credits his companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s success to a dedication to sartorial traditions and employee satisfaction.

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PHOTO COURTESY OF ISAIA

the

ISAIA IDEA A third-generation CEO explains one of the great names in Italian menswear. By Karen Alberg Grossman Founded in Naples in the 1920s, Isaia is a luxury lifestyle brand for men with personality and taste. Isaia’s Italian artisans still handcraft each garment in the Neapolitan sartorial tradition, though now it’s reinterpreted in a contemporary way. At the helm of this exclusive business is Gianluca Isaia, the third-generation CEO, who is famous in the menswear industry for his warmth, charm and creative sense of style. His mission: to help men discover their own personal style in clothing that’s modern, comfortable and very cool. We chatted with Gianluca recently about fashion, business and living life to the fullest. What are you proudest of? “That in 2020 we still hold true to our traditions as a family-owned company, but are always looking to what’s new and contemporary. I’m also proud that, in my parents’ honor, we’ve launched a School of Tailoring in Casalnuovo near our factory. The school teaches the next generation of tailors the sartorial skills needed to continue the tradition of Napoli.” To what do you attribute Isaia’s success? “We live by passion. We take our craftsmanship very seriously, but we don’t take ourselves too seriously. We like to have fun and enjoy life, and it shows in everything we do. It’s important to me that all our associates wake up in the morning and look forward to going to work.” Can you discuss changes in suit styles for 2020? After getting as tight as they can get, are fits loosening up a bit? “Because we serve countries around the world, we have models that vary in fit. And while we’re always experimenting with new

initiatives, we believe our current fits cover the needs of our customers. So we’re not implementing any drastic fit changes at the moment. Globally, our customers appreciate Isaia’s approach: traditional tailoring with a contemporary twist. I want them to always feel comfortable in our garments.” So what’s new for spring 2020, and what will you be wearing? “This season, we took inspiration from the colors and décor of the Museum of Capodimonte in Napoli and the green area of the surrounding Real Bosco. We’re showing many incredible variations of pastels. Personally, my spring 2020 wardrobe includes T-shirts with Neapolitan references, knit shirts, foldable jackets to carry on my travels and, of course, sandals!” What will Isaia’s collection look like for fall 2020? “It’s inspired by underground Naples, a world of its own which reflects the intense and alluring appeal of the city’s history over the past couple of millennia. Isaia interprets this atmosphere through a palette of dark and earthy tones, inspired by a range of textures.” Isaia is known for quirky advertising. What’s your objective here? “We aim to tell stories with our ad campaigns. It’s not about just showing a suit or jacket that we’re trying to sell. It’s about communicating an idea. One of our most beloved campaigns was one we did in 2008 right after the U.S. stock market crash. It featured a man in a well-designed suit, hunched in a corner crying. It captured the sentiment of the time, showing a ‘real man,’ one who was not afraid to show emotion.”

Could you have been happy in a different line of work? “I’ve always been passionate about my work and hope to inspire those I work with to bring the same level of dedication, creativity and appreciation for Napoli’s sartorial tradition to everything we do. However, I spend much of my time in Capri (especially in summer), and I’m always entertaining and hosting. If I had to choose another career, I would become a hotelier and open a boutique hotel, perhaps on Capri. I’d create an environment where interesting people from all over the world could come and experience the best wines, art, food, etc., in a luxe but eccentric environment.” How would you describe your personal style? “Truly my own and a bit irreverent. I often wear sandals with my suits!” How does Italian style differ from American style? “It’s all changing now. American men used to be more conservative when it came to silhouette, color, etc., but it’s become more fluid, which is great. American men are becoming more interested in cultivating their own personal style.” What are your top tips for men to look their best? “Be comfortable in your own skin. Be confident. Don’t try too hard to be perfect. (There is no such thing!) Make sure your clothing fits you properly. And if you’re not sure—ask for help! Try not to follow any rules, but if you must, heed only those that speak to you and ignore the rest.”

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how to

elements of

STYLE

Get a 9-to-5 look that is both professional and relaxed. Photography by Dan Springston

The modern-day office is changing, so summer is the perfect time to mix casual pieces in with your work attire. Express your personality, feel comfortable and still look all business by adding accessories or swapping traditional pieces for more dressed-down details in your weekday warm weather wardrobe.

TRAVEL DAY On him: shirt, Eton; pants, Hudson. From left: pack-away, Ermenegildo Zegna; watch, Jack Mason; trainers, Trask.

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RAINY-DAY READY On him: raincoat, sportcoat and shirt, Isaia; pants, PT01. Clockwise from top left: shirt, Atelier Munro; sunglasses, Zegna; trainer, Trask; pocket square, Eton.

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how to

EVERYDAY EASY On him: sweater, and shirt, Peter Millar; jeans, PTO5. Clockwise from top left: wallet, Secrid; loafer, Trask; belt, Peter Millar; watch, Jack Mason.

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CIRCOLO 1901 glen plaid jersey knit jacket VINCE stretch cotton asymmetrical-front blouse SMYTHE pouf sleeve madras one-button blazer CIRCOLO 1901 glen plaid jersey knit crop trouser

THE ARTFUL BLAZER KILGORE TROUT MUST-HAVES FOR HER Produced by CHRISTOPHER HIXSON Styled by ANDREA NAYMON Photographed by JIM MARTIN Post-production by MIKE STEINER

IMAGE: SMYTHE

SMYTHE stretch silhouette wrap blazer in windowpane

RAG & BONE navy pinstripe blazer and ribbon stripe pant

PHOTOGRAPHY: SERGIO KURHAJEC

HAIR/MAKEUP: CLAIRE BAYLEY WARDROBE: WENDY MCNETT

archi/texture / /texture

THIS SPRING, FORM MEETS FABRIC TO EXTRAORDINARY EFFECT. FOR DRESS-UP OR CASUAL, LIGHT AND LUXE TEXTURES FEEL AS FRESH AS THEY LOOK. SILHOUETTES, BOTH CLASSIC AND MODERN, ARE BUILT FOR EFFORTLESS ELEGANCE.

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icon

man of style:

EDDIE REDMAYNE This British actor with a multi-hued range also cuts a smart figure on the red carpet. Not bad for a guy who’s color-blind. By Haley Longman Alphabetically, Hayden comes soon after Hawking. Of course, that doesn’t assure British actor Eddie Redmayne will cop the Best Actor Academy Award for his performance as radical activist Tom Hayden in this year’s film The Trial of the Chicago 7. Just because he won the 2014 prize for playing physicist Stephen Hawking in The Theory of Everything doesn’t mean he’s a lock. Still, wouldn’t paired Oscars look nice on the mantel? Score Redmayne’s accent and defined cheekbones on the plus side for a style icon; his freckles, slender build and so-called “bedhead” maybe not so much. But, likely or not, this talented Brit has combined an already-impressive roster of thespian credits (he just turned 38) with a rep for choosing impeccable clothing and wearing it impeccably. Edward John David Redmayne grew up in London and attended the Jackie Palmer Stage School for the performing arts from the age of 10. He got his professional start in theater on London’s West End and did stints on television before landing roles in films such as The Yellow Handkerchief and The Other Boleyn Girl (both 2008). On stage in London, in 2009, he played a fictional assistant to painter Mark Rothko in a play fittingly titled Red. Three years

later his star was rising, with a stint in the film My Week with Marilyn and his breakout role in the star-studded Les Misérables in 2012. By then, the world knew Redmayne could act and sing, but the fellow had a knack for style too. British fashion powerhouse Burberry hired him for its spring/summer 2012 campaign; in the years following he was named to the “best-dressed” lists in both Vanity Fair and GQ, became an ambassador for the Swiss watch brand Omega and was chosen as Business Insider’s Most Stylish Man in the World Right Now. Yep, the entire world. The Brit has been touted for his classic, cool style, his innate ability to look put together on even the most mundane occasions, such as when traveling from LHR to LAX, as he often does. Redmayne has a penchant for crewneck knits over slim-cut button-ups and is seldom seen without his signature structured collar, whether via a lapel on a jacket or a cowl on a sweater. And because some dress codes can be as unpredictable as London’s weather, layering is another of Redmayne’s everyday style go-tos; he’ll often wear a cardigan under a jacket or blazer and simply remove the coat should he feel overdressed. For more formal events, each of his many suits—most often by Prada, Alexander McQueen, Tom Ford or Burberry—is tailored to fit him precisely, to the point of “almost hugging” his lanky 5-foot-11-inch frame. “I’ve always worn suits, so I’ve always felt at ease in them,” he told Men’s Health a few years back, perhaps recalling his teenage years at Eton College, where the dress code required starched collars and tailcoats. “My dad is a dapper man,” said Redmayne, setting up a sly self-mock. “He wears suits for work, so maybe wearing them makes me feel subconsciously like I have a proper job.” Then he slipped the Freudians more ammo: “A well-cut suit feels like armor. If it’s tailored to fit, you feel strong.” Strong in showbiz, just possibly, is taking Oscar home before you’re 35; Redmayne was the first male born in the 1980s to win the statuette. And that was no fluke; he nabbed another nomination the following year, controversially cast as a transgender woman in The Danish Girl. He also stars in the Fantastic Beasts franchise, a spin-off of Harry Potter, and gets top billing in 2019’s period drama The Aeronauts. If he shines in Aaron Sorkin’s Chicago 7, he’ll be on the way to Hollywood immortality. Yet Redmayne doesn’t follow all Hollywood norms—he has no personal stylist, for example. Instead, Hannah Bagshawe, his publicist wife and the mother of his two children, has been dressing him for the red carpet. That’s why he informed the U.K.’s The Mirror back in 2016 that for his sartorial splendor “I can’t take much credit. “I’m color-blind,” Redmayne said with winning candor and humility, “so occasionally I’ll go for things that are slightly outlandish, and she’ll temper me back into the world of taste.” Oscar-winning British actor Eddie Redmayne is most comfortable in a suit—and a very slim-fitting one at that. “I like to feel the strength of the garment,” he says.

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wardrobe!

dressing for

THE PART

Academy Award–winning costume designer Sandy Powell outfits some of the silver screen’s biggest names, inspiring audiences around the globe. By Darcey Gohring Great costumes can bring a story to life. Before an actor even utters a word, his or her clothes can convey a time period, a location, a personality and an overall mood. In the right hands, a film’s wardrobe can not only transport audiences but also inspire real-life fashion trends. And when some of Hollywood’s biggest names are looking to make a statement, one woman is on the top of the list: award-winning British costume designer Sandy Powell. The London-born creative has worked on almost 40 films since the 1980s. In that time, she has garnered 14 Oscar nominations (even competing against herself one year), making her the most nominated living artist in her field. To put it in terms most of us can understand, Powell has won the same number of Oscars (three) as Meryl Streep. (Wins were for 2009’s The Young Victoria, 2004’s The Aviator and 1998’s Shakespeare in Love.) A favorite of director Martin Scorsese, the 59-year-old has collaborated with him on such films as Gangs of New York, The Wolf of Wall Street, Hugo and last year’s The Irishman. A master at her craft, Powell has a knack for making wardrobes in period films somehow

feel fresh and current. There is always a bit of an edge to them. When she begins a project, she says her process is much the same whether it is a blockbuster or an indie film. The first step is to read the script and meet with the director. Then the real work begins—research, research and more research. “I have an extensive collection of books and photography: contemporary and period fashion, street photography, photojournalism,” she explains. “I plow through those, building up catalogs of images directly related to the period or just looking for pure inspiration.” In truth, for Powell the actual designing of the clothes is the smallest part of the process. She cites one example from her work on 2018’s Mary Poppins Returns. She created a whopping 448 looks for the movie, but it was the details that were most time-consuming. In the film, Meryl Streep’s character, inspired by the artistic bohemians of the early 20th century, had a scene that required a lot of movement. For the character’s complicated, handmade costume, the challenge Powell didn’t see coming was finding a material from which to fabricate bracelets that would not make a lot of noise.

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After much trial and error, Powell’s solution was to cast them in rubber. In the 2018 dark comedy The Favourite, she had the challenge of dressing stars Emma Stone, Rachel Weisz and Olivia Colman in over-the-top versions of 18thcentury English clothes—with a slim budget and a tight timeline. “We weren’t making a conventional historical film,” Powell told British Vogue in 2019. “Silhouette-wise, there is nothing wrong with how the costumes were made. But, fabric-wise, artistic license was taken. It adds to the general feeling of the film.” She also kept the palette to mostly black and white, and with her creative vision the result was what Powell describes as a punk-rock version of a royal court. The latest Powell work to hit the big screen is The Glorias: A Life on the Road, a look at the life of feminist activist Gloria Steinem. For that 2020 release, Powell designed looks beginning in the 1940s and extending all the way to the present day. Once again, her costumes don’t exactly steal the scenes—they’re not supposed to do that—but they surely make her talented presence felt.

GANGS OF NEW YORK – MIRAMAX FILMS; THE AVIATOR – WARNER BROS. ENTERTAINMENT INC.; HUGO – PARAMOUNT (UNIVERSAL PICTURES)

A favorite of director Martin Scorsese, Oscar-winning Sandy Powell has designed costumes for many of his films, including Gangs of New York , 2002 (above); The Aviator, 2004 (left); and Hugo , 2011 (below).

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FIND WHAT

SUITS YOU!

When it’s head-to-toe patterns or mix and match separates, this season’s tailored clothing gives you every opportunity to express yourself. Photography by Dan Springston

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Jacket: Isaia Shirt, tie and pocket square: Eton Jeans: S.M.N

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This page: Suit, shirt, tie and pocket square: Isaia Bracelet: Tateossian Opposite: Jacket, shirt, tie, pants and pocket square: Isaia

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This page: Jacket: Canali Shirt, tie and pocket square: Eton Pants: Ermenegildo Zegna Opposite: Tuxedo and shirt: Isaia Pocket square: Eton ROCK HALL INDUCTION CEREMONY READY!

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This page: Blazer: Canali Shirt, tie and pocket square: Eton Pants: Ermenegildo Zegna Watch: Jack Mason Opposite: Suit: Canali Shirt: Ermenegildo Zegna Bow tie: R. Hanauer Pocket square: Eton

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A NEW ANGLE ON THE LITTLE BLACK DRESS &

FRESH TAKES ON COLOR, TEXTURE & PRINT FOR SPRING Produced by CHRISTOPHER HIXSON Styled by ANDREA NAYMON Photographed by JIM MARTIN Post-production by MIKE STEINER

IMAGE: VINCE

KILGORE TROUT MUST-HAVES FOR HER

This page: D.EXTERIOR contemporary sheer lace dress cover-up Opposite: VINCE sleeveless crepe dress with semi-exposed pleated panel falling to an asymmetrical hem

IMAGE: VINCE

PSOPHIA printed silk crepe dress D.EXTERIOR contemporary sheer lace jacket with hood VINCE knit “Sherpa” jacket with exaggerated sleeves

IMAGE: L'AGENCE

IMAGE: RAG & BONE

L’AGENCE python print “Nina” blouse and palazzo pant in silk georgette (separates)

RAG & BONE “Colette” zebra floral mix-print pant in color-blocked silk

NAADAM printed cashmere sweater and skirt (separates) VINCE stitched front seam legging in Italian ponte

fashion

ATELIER MUNRO: CUSTOMIZE YOUR LIFE Evergreen wool/silk/linen plaid suit, striped pure cotton shirt Navy stretch cotton pinstripe jacket, pique knit popover, stretch denim jean Houndstooth wool/silk/linen jacket, microweave cotton shirt, twill chino

KILGORE TROUT MUST-HAVES FOR HIM

EASY. BREEZY. SHARP! Set your sartorial sights on clean-cut lines and no-fuss separates for a look that's casual, polished and cool.

Produced by CHRISTOPHER HIXSON Photographed by JIM MARTIN Post-production by MIKE STEINER Styling by AARON JACOBS and ANDREA NAYMON Additional Photography by ATELIER MUNRO and DAN SPRINGSTON

ATELIER MUNRO: CUSTOMIZE YOUR WARDROBE Wool/linen blend suit, linen open weave shirt

SAMUELSOHN cotton and silk sportcoat FEDELI garment-dyed polo S.M.N Japanese denim jean

KILGORE TROUT washed stretch cotton shirt jackets EMANUEL BERG print linen shirts

ATELIER MUNRO: CUSTOMIZE YOUR CHINOS Not quite casual but far from formal, the chino is the chameleon of pants. Yours will be completely custom, with every detail decided by you.

ETRO jacquard sportcoat and printed cotton tee

ISAIA cotton stripe shirt, silk and linen sportcoat, nylon and suede technical parka

BOGNER performance knit sweatshirt and technical bomber S.M.N "Finn" tapered fit jean

FAHERTY cotton tee J BRAND jean

Z ZEGNA seersucker suit with drawstring waist jogger, wear together or as separates EMANUEL BERG linen shirt

ATELIER MUNRO: CUSTOMIZE YOUR JEANS

COUNTLESS WAYS TO CUSTOMIZE YOUR LIFE

Kilgore Trout offers made-to-measure clothing options from Ermenegildo Zegna, Samuelsohn, Isaia, Coppley, Canali, Eton and others, covering every preference, style and budget. Start a conversation with your style advisor today.

ATELIER MUNRO: CUSTOMIZED CASUAL Tropical cotton shirt, stretch cotton twill chino

STONE ISLAND performance shirt jacket, sprayed logo cotton tee, cargo short

BOLZONELLA washed linen chore jacket, cotton shirt

GIANNETTO PORTOFINO washed cotton shirts S.M.N washed cotton stretch 5-pocket in stone, vintage dusk and vintage sea cove

FAHERTY cotton hoodie PETER MILLAR shirt PAPERBACKS shorts

GIMO'S leather-trim cotton shirt jacket reverses to wind and water-resistant nylon BARBA NAPOLI cotton shirt PT05 "Jazz" tapered jean

RAG & BONE cotton shirt and varsity cardigan, slim-fit cotton jean

INIS MEÁIN ribbed linen sweater ATELIER GARDEUR sun-faded 5-pocket pant MASON’S ultra light garment-dyed cotton trouser ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA cotton/silk/cashmere rugby polo

JAMES PERSE standard tee Z ZEGNA seersucker suit jacket MASONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S "Torino" slim-fit slack

< ATELIER MUNRO: CUSTOMIZE THE DETAILS button-down cotton pique knit shirt, cutaway collar stretch cotton blend shirt, cotton twill chinos

DESOTO stretch cotton jersey shirts in short and long sleeve models CIRCOLO 1901 washed knitted jacket

ZERO-G

THE LIGHTEST SUIT IN THE WORLD, WEIGHING IN AT JUST 300 GRAMS

The TMB Zero-Gravity featherweight suit will forever change the way you travel. Made in Italy by Tombolini of soft, elastic, technological fabric that fits with ease and feels like sportswear. Pairs beautifully with a knit polo or popover, but we especially love it with this GRAN SASSO cotton/linen sweater.

ETRO cotton jacquard shirt, tapestry sportcoat, cotton jacquard jean ROCK HALL INDUCTION CEREMONY READY!

indulgences

cart

BLANCHE

Why do we love sports cars? Speed and style no doubt have much to do with it, but it’s that visceral urge to command a beautiful piece of machinery that really drives us to seek out the hottest wheels in which to hit the roads. Now, what if there were a way to achieve that same level of luxurious locomotion on the golf course? Introducing the Garia SuperSport, just one of the Danish brand’s family of golf cars. (Yes, cars, never carts.) This stylish vehicle, made primarily of carbon fiber, has everything any gear enthusiast could ask for in a souped-up, luxury automobile: a waterproof, chocolate-brown leather interior, hand-stitched lounge seats, a top-of-the-line infotainment system and a wi-fi connection. Of course, there are some additional bells and whistles specific to your golfing experience too: a touch-enabled digital scoreboard and even a built-in mini-fridge. The car runs in three liquid metal finishes—Diamond White, Selenite Gray and Black Carbon—each an elusive, extravagant choice for your ride

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that’s anything but par for the course when you’re riding alongside those typical club models. The grill’s golf ball-esque dimples may be the only feature that will remind you that you are, in fact, driving a golf cart. The SuperSport model was created, Garia says, with the style of a Mercedes-Benz in mind. The luxury automaker’s influence is easy to recognize, as the SuperSport’s driving finesse and sleek concept are unmistakably Mercedes-like. It doesn’t zoom up and down a fairway as fast as a Benz-y would on an open highway (it tops out at 25 mph in the U.S.—it is a golf cart), but it’s street legal in the U.S. and Europe and can be driven wherever the avid golfer behind the wheel dares take it. So, how much for your personal Benz-buggy hybrid to zip around on the golf green? The SuperSport starts at a cool $77,999 without shipping or labor fees. It’s a top-of-the-line automobile in its most practical form for any serious sportsman and a guaranteed hole-in-one.

PHOTO COURTESY OF CARSHOP.GARIA.COM

Take the wheel of the high-tech, eco-friendly Garia SuperSport golf vehicle, and everyone on the green will be green with envy. By Gianna Barone

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H A N D C R A F T E D I N I TA LY

ÂŠ2020 A Genesco Company

We travel the world to find artisans who share our passion for upholding quality and creating beauty.

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BOURBON’S

new moment

The classic whiskey from the Bluegrass State evokes Americana like an old tintype. So why is it suddenly hot? By Darcey Gohring it’s an authentic spirit, made by real people like myself,” she says. “I believe the bourbon boom will continue for many years, because the world is just starting to discover it and we have a lot of room to grow across the globe.” Officially the nation’s only native spirit, bourbon is an American whiskey. Contrary to popular belief, it doesn’t actually have to be made in Kentucky—although 95 percent of it is, and loyalists say that without the state’s climate and local waters it just isn’t the same. Geography aside, the spirit does require three elements: corn, charred oak and time. It is that high concentration of corn that gives bourbon its initial sweet impression. The rest of the profile is influenced by factors such as aging, other ingredients (typically rye and barley) and the climate in which it is aged. The bourbon gets its rich, golden color—along with much of its flavor—from the charred oak. Besides mint juleps, bourbon can be used in other classics such as a Manhattan, an old fashioned or a whiskey sour or simply mixed into a sweet tea on a warm summer day. Purists say it’s even better served in a whiskey glass neat. If you’re trying bourbon for the first time, Gregory recommends starting with a lower proof and sampling different varieties. “There is a bourbon for every palate,” he says. “Bourbon is very elegant, but very complex. Every one has a little twist: They are all slightly different.” However you try this historic whiskey, take a cue from Kentucky natives—sit back, sip and take a moment to enjoy.

Traditional Mint Julep Ingredients n 2 oz. bourbon n ½ oz. simple syrup n 3 fresh mint leaves n crushed ice Directions Express the essential oils in the mint and rub them inside the glass. To the same glass, add simple syrup, bourbon and crushed ice. Stir. Garnish with more ice and fresh mint.

Elizabeth McCall, assistant master distiller, Woodford Reserve

SPR IN G/SUMMER 2020 THE SU B STA N CE OF ST Y L E

PHOTO COURTESY OF GETTY, INSET COURTESY OF WOODFORD RESERVE

On the second of May, the mint juleps are sure to be flowing at the 146th Kentucky Derby. And these days that cocktail’s main ingredient, the pride of the Bluegrass State, is finishing in the money. Long a bar staple, bourbon is booming again: In just the past decade, Kentucky alone has gone from under 20 distilleries filling about 450,000 barrels to almost 70 filling 1.7 million. Bourbon has always carried Kentucky, but what makes it newly cool in New York and San Francisco? The answer: a combination of younger people embracing it and bartenders appreciating its versatility in crafting cocktails. “There is a surging cocktail culture—it’s the Mad Men effect,” says Eric Gregory, president of the Kentucky Distillers’ Association. “People are looking for an authentic experience.” Elizabeth McCall, assistant master distiller at the well-known Kentucky distillery Woodford Reserve, agrees. “Bourbon has been gaining in popularity because

always &

ALL WAYS The Kilgore Trout style advisors are here to help.

MADE-TO-MEASURE For the ultimate clothing experience and for hard-to-fit guys, indulge in madeto-measure suits, sportcoats, shirts and trousers—even ties. The world’s finest fabrics and designers mean yours will be a fit like no other.

ALTERATIONS With four full-time master tailors, seamstresses and pressers on staff, we don’t mess around when it comes to having the finest tailoring shop in Cleveland. Expert alterations are always complimentary with every new, regular-priced purchase.

ALTERATIONS AND REPAIRS A loose thread or button can be just the thing that unravels your day. Bring in any suit or outerwear with buttons that need assistance and we’ll re-attach or tighten them for you, on site and free of charge. We like you looking your best, down to the details. We’ll also handle other repairs and alterations for a small fee.

CUSTOMER LOUNGE

SPECIAL APPOINTMENTS We know your time is valuable. Whether before, during or after business hours, we are happy to arrange appointments in the store to assist you with your shopping needs. Just call 216.831.0488 and we’ll make it happen.

HOME & OFFICE VISITS Sometimes life or business gets in the way of finding time to stop by the store. No worries. We’re always available to come to your home or office.

PERSONAL DELIVERY If you need to have a purchase hand-delivered within the Cleveland/Akron area, just let us know. We also ship worldwide.

CLOSET CLEANING One of our professional style advisors will personally visit your home to inventory your closet, providing suggestions on how to creatively mix and match your existing wardrobe with new items. An experienced tailor also can be present to provide any fitting or readjustments you may need. If you desire, we’ll provide a photographic catalog of your wardrobe for your future reference.

BUILDING RELATIONSHIPS Developing lasting personal relationships helps our style advisors select items that they know you will enjoy and eases your shopping experience. We’ll always do everything we can to make you look and feel your best.

In a hectic world, we need to take advantage of the simple pleasures—if only for a few minutes. Take a seat in our customer lounge, kick back with a freshly brewed cappuccino or bottled water and enjoy a bit of the game on our big screen. We’re happy to provide a moment of solitude when you need it most.

TROUT CLUB REWARD PROGRAM Earn points with every qualifying purchase and receive this magazine by mail each season: 1 point for every $1 in merchandise purchased—even sale items (excludes services/footwear). Rewards are issued equivalent to 5% of your total Trout Club points, so that’s a $50 reward for every $1,000 spent. Twice each year, we’ll email you a summary of your available Trout Club rewards.

GIFT CARDS A Kilgore Trout gift card is always a perfect fit. Our gift cards are available in any denomination and arrive in a gift box, ready to give. Purchase in store or over the phone. We’ll ship it to the recipient.

CLOTHING DONATIONS Service to our community is every bit as important as service to our customers. Declutter your closet while helping a good cause. Drop off your discarded, yet wearable, items anytime and we’ll donate them to a local charity that provides clothing for Clevelanders re-entering the workplace.

CONVENIENCE Kilgore Trout is just a half-mile from Interstate 271 at Eton Chagrin Boulevard, the region’s finest shopping experience with great dining options and more than 50 retailers to satiate your every desire. Eton even has an on-site shoe shine vendor. Need to know more? Call us at 216.831.0488.

CONNECT WITH US Connect with @kilgoretroutcleveland on Facebook and Instagram for the latest news, trends and events.

ETON 28601 Chagrin Boulevard, Cleveland, Ohio 44122 216.831.0488, kilgoretrout.com Shop Monday-Saturday 10 a.m.–6 p.m., Thursday 10 a.m.–7 p.m.

the munro DOCTRINE

final stitch

We know even the smallest of details is important to you. That is, after all, why you’re a Kilgore Trout customer, right? For decades, our team of made-tomeasure experts has been customizing the finest garments precisely to your specifications and personal taste. Now we’re happy to give you even more. At Kilgore Trout, we’re excited to be one of the first stores in the U.S. to open a dedicated Atelier Munro shop. The young Amsterdam-based fashion house specializes in sleek tailoring for today’s discerning gentlemen, marrying superb quality, accessible prices and seemingly countless style choices. The result is a customized garment that is uniquely yours. Just 30 days after our tailors take your measurements, you’ll be fitted as the final step before taking home the pieces you designed. And it’s more than just formalwear and business suits. Atelier Munro also caters to guys who embrace the business-casual look, from neat jackets and polos to five-pocket pants. With Kilgore Trout and Atelier Munro, your sartorial options are almost endless.

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KEEP YOUR SHIRT ON

More than two dozen components go into the best custom shirts, and we’re not just talking about the garments you wear under a tuxedo or suit jacket. Atelier Munro custom crafts casual Friday go-to’s such as polos and popovers precisely to your taste and, like its dress shirts, these pieces are made of fabrics sourced from Italy’s finest mills. Sure, the Dutch brand boasts a vibrant ready-towear collection, but fashion luxury means getting what you want and how you want it. Brushed cotton or linen? Classic or stretch? Oxford or twill? Paisley or striped? Atelier Munro does it all—and so much more.

THE BOTTOM LINE

It’s a fact that today’s modern man cherishes a custom suit—the jacket and trousers. With that in mind, Atelier Munro gives the same special attention devoted to suits to every pair of pants that it makes, from formalwear to dress chinos to denim. Yes, Atelier Munro will create jeans exactly to your liking. No longer will it take countless washes and wears to “break in” your jeans and five-pocket pants; tailors use your measurements so your bottoms fit and feel like a glove from day one. And to make certain your jeans and chinos are uniquely you, experts will work with you to build the perfect pair—dark or light wash, moleskin or cord, stretch or rigid, selvage or raw. Sure, many brands offer superb off-the-rack pieces, but nothing is more personal than custom pants by Atelier Munro.

A LITTLE EXTRA

Jacket? Check. Shirt? Check. Denim? Check. The final pieces of the business-casual puzzle are the accessories. Pair jeans with a self-designed leather or suede belt: You pick the color, buckle and more. And don’t forget to finish a smart sportcoat-and-jeans look with a pocket square in your choice of fabric, pattern and monogram, of course. Then, select a great pair of sneakers from our footwear department to complete the package.

PHOTO COURTESY OF MUNRO

As dress codes relax, so can you. The Dutch design house believes in creating a casual look that’s uniquely you—and quickly too. By Darius Amos

THE CASUAL COMPONENTS

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