spirits

THE CULTURE OF COGNAC

Why is this spirit so hip? Exacting production and ageing standards tell part of the tale. By Harry Dowden

Crime novelist Mickey Spillane had a ready reason why his fictional hero, detective Mike Hammer, so often drank beer: “Because I can’t spell cognac.” But today pop culture has discovered the spirit, orthography be damned. Cognac is one of the most popular sips among the most influential stars. Appreciating a fine glass of XO is a sure sign of sophistication and taste, and its authenticity and no-compromises production are a big part of its appeal.

Cognac is a complex beverage with a 500-year history, and it takes its name from the area in southwest France where it is made under a set of strict guidelines. Brandies can be produced all over, but only those from cognac itself may bear that moniker. Blends are composed of various eaux-de-vie (“waters of life”), twice copper-distilled wine (at least 90 percent Ugni Blanc varietal) that must age for a minimum of two years in oak (Limousin or Tronçais only, s’il vous plaît). The four blends on the next page rest for much, much longer, however. A “young” cognac is still a delectable and smooth experience, but age brings the elixir to another level. Kick back with a snifter and the things you enjoy most in life—you may not be jet-setting in a G6 like some of cognac’s biggest fans, but you’ll feel on top of the world. (A quick note on nomenclature: Until recently, for a cognac to be deemed XO—extra old—required that the youngest blend component have remained in oak for six years. But that minimum was raised to 10 years—cognacs with threads below that age now receive the Napoléon grade, the next one down.)

LOUIS XIII

Beloved by iconic singer Rihanna, Louis XIII is one of the most exceptional cognacs available. One hundred percent of the wines distilled for this blend are from grapes grown in the Grande Champagne cru, the premier subsection of six in the region whose harvests can be tapped for the beverage.

Each bottle of Louis XIII contains 1,200 blend components, meticulously sifted through and chosen. This is after only a “small” portion of eaux-de-vie are selected for the elusive path. The kicker? The cognac’s age makes a long-in-the-tooth 10-year XO minimum look like the blink of an eye. The minimum age for a LXIII blend component is 40 years, and some threads surpass the century-old mark.

The impressive age inspires a wide array of tasting notes, from the tropical to the earthy. The extended process has also lent the team a long-term vision that allows for careful con- sideration of processes, and an examination of our engagement with the passage of time. A collaborative effort with rapper and cognac connoisseur Pharrell Williams titled “100 Years” is both an homage to the lengthy creation process of the esteemed cognac and a plea to those who’d wish to pass on the tradition: a song, locked away, that will automatically release in 2117—if climate change and sea-level rise permit. Recommended pairing: Barring dramatic medical advances, most of us won’t be able to hear what could be Mr. Williams’ magnum opus. Instead, spin a copy of Random Access Memories from another of France’s finest exports, the electronic music duo Daft Punk. Their retro-futuristic sounds will lay the perfect backdrop for the waves of flavor that a glass of Louis XIII offers.

HENNESSY MARC NEWSON

Bold yet smooth, rich yet filled with subtleties, Hennessy has made a name as a luxury beverage of choice among creatives across different media. Arguably the first to use the XO distinction, Henny, as it’s lovingly referred to, is an excellent sipper and all-around cognac.

Notably using only the Ugni Blanc varietal, each bottle of Hennessy XO comprises 100 blending components. This depth of composition has led to a specific set of seven flavor notes that describe the journey through a pour of the elixir: Sweet Notes, Rising Heat,

Spicy Edge, Flowing Flame, Chocolate Lull, Wood

Crunches and Infinite Echo. These notes were deemed so evocative that acclaimed director Ridley Scott was commissioned to compose a sci-fi tribute exploring each of the “Seven Worlds.” The special Marc Newson edition of the XO is another shining example of Hennessy’s collaborative spirit, showing a commitment to an aesthetic that prizes presentation alongside flavor. The designer’s reworking of the distinctive decanter utilizes horizontal striations to visually highlight both glass and liquid, and creates a uniquely textured object that reflects cognac’s many facets. Recommended pairing: Savor a glass or two while watching Scott’s sci-fi watershed Blade Runner. Get your hands on 2007’s The Final Cut to appreciate the director’s true vision for the film as you do the same with the work of Hennessy’s blenders.

COURVOISIER XO

A focus on techniques from the house of

Courvoisier leads to an incredibly smooth product.

Working closely with many growers across four crus, producers take pride every step of the way. That is reflected not just in the distillate, but also in the oak that houses it. For both grape and wood, the process begins from the ground up. Two-hundred-year-old oak is selected by in-house coopers, and staves are dried for three years before the barrels are complete. A year’s worth of grapes undergo primary fermentation before they are ready for cognac’s signature double distillation. Sipping straight will be an immersive experience filled with big floral notes alongside caramel and dried citrus— think snacking on candied orange in a lush meadow. If you choose to mix it up a bit, Courvoisier recommends a classic sidecar: 5 parts cognac, 2 parts triple sec, 2 parts lemon juice, shaken well and strained. Recommended pairing: Take a listen to mile-aminute wordsmith Busta Rhymes’ early-aughts party hit, “Pass the Courvoisier Part II.” Pharrell Williams’ hook and his production as part of the Neptunes are just as smooth as the indelible beverage.

RÉMY MARTIN XO

This is a classic take on the spirit and one that has showed immense staying power. The blend, with up to 400 components, is referred to as a Cognac Fine Champagne—its grapes sourced exclusively from vineyards in two of the region’s crus, Grande Champagne (50 percent+) and Petite Champagne. The particular soil’s terroir encourages the level of ripeness in the grapes that makes the wine well-suited for the 24-hour double distillation process.

The eaux-de-vie that are produced from the distillation processes each year can number in the thousands, but many will not meet the standards required for them to be set down for a transformation in oak. Years later, we are finally able to taste the product of this patience, hard work and informed selection. A drop of water can open up the cognac and enhance some of the more subtle fruity and spicy aromatics, just as it does with a fine whisky. Fatty cheeses and bold dark chocolates are among the great foods that pair well with cognac, but for its own XO, Rémy Martin recommends figs—a sweet treat that will bring out dried fruit flavors in the liquid that only time can develop. If you want your cognac consumption to be a truly cinematic experience, check out the limited-edition XO packaging for the Cannes Film Festival. A pointillist take on the Rémy logo evokes the bright lights of a marquee and the flash of the paparazzi. Recommended pairing: Kick back and take in the movie Port Authority, whose cast and crew made history voguing across the red carpet at Cannes. The film is a chronicle of romance in the NYC ballroom scene, whose traditions and uncompromising creativity will pair well with the warmth in your glass.

PATENTED ITALIAN DESIGN THAT STRETCHES THE DEFINITION OF LUXURY