FEBRUARY 2020 | ISSUE NO. 2 | VOL. 31
FEBRUARY 2020
SALUTING STORES IN BUSINESS
100+ YEARS!
CELEBRATING CENTURY-OLD STORES
LA LA LAND VEGAS HAPPENINGS OUTERWEAR OPTIONS DENIM DIRECTIONS
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FEBRUARY 16-18, 2020 theMART, Chicago
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Peerless Clothing Opening Night Party Sunday: 6:00pm – 8:00pm Marshall’s Landing 2nd floor – The Mart
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congratulates our retail partners on acheiving a century of success! We are honored to have been a part of your journey.
FEBRUARY 2020
THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY’S MAGAZINE
EDITORIAL EDITOR-IN-CHIEF KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN KAREN.ALBERG@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM FASHION DIRECTOR STEPHEN GARNER STEPHEN.GARNER@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM CREATIVE DIRECTORS NANCY CAMPBELL, TREVETT MCCANDLISS NC@9THREADS.COM, T@9THREADS.COM ASSISTANT EDITOR MEHR SINGH MEHR.SINGH@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM
ADVERTISING GROUP PUBLISHER SHAE MARCUS SHAE.MARCUS@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM DIRECTOR OF SALES MONICA DELLI SANTI NATIONAL ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE KAREN AZZARELLO ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES KRISTIN DAUSS, JESSICA SALERNO
PRODUCTION DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION SUSAN WINDRUM DIRECTOR, ADVERTISING SERVICES JACQUELYNN FISCHER GRAPHIC DESIGNER, ADVERTISING SERVICES VIOLETA MULAJ ACCOUNTING AGNES ALVES, MEGAN FRANK
ADVISORY BOARD LIZETTE CHIN PRESIDENT, MEN’S, INFORMA BLAIR DELONGY VP OPERATIONS, JOHN CRAIG/CURRENT FRED DERRING FOUNDER, DLS OUTFITTERS LINDSAY MORTON GAISER VP/GMM, ANDRISEN MORTON DURAND GUION GROUP VP, FASHION OFFICE, MACY’S INC. DONNY HUBBARD OWNER, HUBBARD CLOTHING WILL LEVY PRESIDENT, OAK HALL SHARIFA MURDOCK CO-OWNER/SALES DIRECTOR, LIBERTY FAIRS, CAPSULE, CABANA JIM MURRAY PRESIDENT, A.K. RIKKS BRUCE PASK MEN’S FASHION DIRECTOR, BERGDORF GOODMAN/NEIMAN MARCUS BRUCE SCHEDLER VP, CHICAGO COLLECTIVE
WAINSCOT MEDIA CHAIRMAN CARROLL V. DOWDEN PRESIDENT & CEO MARK DOWDEN SENIOR VICE PRESIDENTS SHAE MARCUS, CARL OLSEN VICE PRESIDENTS NIGEL EDELSHAIN, TOM FLANNERY, RITA GUARNA
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FEBRUARY 2020
CONTENTS
D E PA R T M E N T S 14 Editor’s Letter
27 Fashion Director’s Letter
On the heart and soul of American retail.
How one New Yorker found inspiration in Tinseltown.
18 Ones to Watch
Some of the best menswear brands from Los Angeles.
Emerging brands to boost sales.
28 Fashion
22 Scene
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New things to do in Las Vegas.
38 F E AT U R E S 94
38 La La Land
92 Sneaker Footprints
Retailers and brands on making it in the City of Angels.
Why this category shows no signs of slowing down.
51 Century Survivors
94 Influencer Evolution
Retail pioneers share tricks of the trade.
Authenticity is the secret to success in 2020.
84 Denim Directions
96 The End
How to stand out in an oversaturated market.
How to stay in business for 100 years.
88 Outerwear Outlook Innovation, comfort, and sustainability dominate this market.
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MR (ISSN 1049-6726, USPS 7885) IS PUBLISHED FIVE TIMES A YEAR (JANUARY, FEBRUARY, JUNE, JULY, AUGUST) MR MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED BY WAINSCOT MEDIA, 1 MAYNARD DRIVE, PARK RIDGE, NJ 07656. PERIODICALS POSTAGE PAID AT MAHWAH, NJ. AND AT ADDITIONAL MAILING OFFICES. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO MR MAGAZINE, 1 MAYNARD DRIVE, PARK RIDGE, NJ 07656. SUBSCRIPTION SERVICES: TO CHANGE AN ADDRESS OR REQUEST A SUBSCRIPTION, WRITE TO SUBSCRIPTIONS, MR MAGAZINE, 1 MAYNARD DRIVE, PARK RIDGE, NJ 07656; TELEPHONE: 201-573-5541. ADVERTISING INQUIRIES: CONTACT SHAE MARCUS AT 856.797.2227 OR SHAE.MARCUS@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM. COPYRIGHT © 2020 BY WAINSCOT MEDIA, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 31, ISSUE 2.
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Adrian Clay dances in a suit made with Estrato fabric, hand-stitched by Sant’Andrea Milano
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EDITORʼS LETTER
THE SOUL OF AMERICAN RETAILING SURVIVING MORE THAN A CENTURY IS NOT FOR THE FAINT OF HEART.
WHAT A JOY it’s been these past few months to interview menswear merchants whose stores have been in business for more than 100 years! In this issue, they graciously share with MR their wisdom, passion, and survival secrets, their challenges and approach to change. The history of many of these stores reflects the proverbial immigrant story: escaping persecution or famine in Russia or Eastern Europe to come to America for a better life. Jim Crooks tells of his grandfather who took over the store in 1929: “He ran it throughout the Depression doing whatever he could to earn/save money. He cut hair, he pulled teeth (50 cents per tooth), he kept all the lights off until someone walked through the door. When my dad returned from the war, he was shocked to find the store devoid of inventory. He went to Philadelphia to meet with a key
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the “charisma” gene is not always passed clothing brand; when they wouldn’t sell down through generations. him, he sat on the stoop for two days until In this issue, these century survivors they took his order. … The store was empty: generously share their insights into suche had to fill it.” cession planning (many have children not While today’s century store owners range interested in retailing), competing with onfrom sophisticated luxury merchants in line businesses, competing with their own booming cities to intrepid store owners brands, creating private label programs for in rural America to celebrated retailers exclusive product with improved margins. in historic tourist towns, they have much Notes Mitch Sugar, a star seller at Kanin common. Shared priorities include: an non’s in Raleigh, “The increasing number emphasis on above-and-beyond customof vendors selling direct is a big problem. er service, exceptional tailoring, distinctive We’re looking for more brands that want product, frequent store renovation (although a symbiotic rather than parasitic relationnot frequent enough, in some cases), a ship. We’d love more boutique lines, and passion for giving back to the communieven private labels, which are admittedty, and a mantra of treating associates like family and customers like friends. Says Ken Metzger from Metzger’s in Mobile, reflecting the thoughts of many, “I love the people; this isn’t the business for –ED BARBO JR., COLUMBIA CLOTHING, DULUTH, MN you if you don’t. We come in all shapes, sizes, ethnic ly hard to acquire without huge orders.” backgrounds and beliefs. Sharing life exBut bottom line, with all of today’s triperiences with others has enriched my life als, store owners admit that they’re warin so many ways.” riors who love the fight, who cherish the Century merchants also disclosed some challenge of succeeding against the odds. surprising success secrets including “luck,” (A few even confess to being masochists!) “a charismatic personality” and “deep So here’s to our warriors and masochists, pockets.” Says Ed Barbo Jr. from Columbia to figuring it all out in the next century, Clothing in Duluth, “Cash flow is always and to making a little time for some golf! tough; few independent store owners end up independently wealthy…” Says David Kositchek from Kositcheks in Lansing, “Prosperity has made it possible for us to grow but adversity has been our greatest teacher.” Several merchants acknowledge that it takes a larger-than-life personality to succeed in this business, noting that
“FEW INDEPENDENT STORE OWNERS END UP INDEPENDENTLY WEALTHY. …”
steven land Spring / Summer 2020
RUN THIS TOWN See us at Magic BOOTHS:66027-66133
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CONGRATULATIONS TO THE HONOREES CELEBRATING 100 YEARS AND MORE AT THIS VERY SPECIAL MR EVENT!
SCHNEIDERS SALZBURG WISHES YOU ONGOING SUCCESS AND LOOKS FORWARD TO CONTINUING OUR PARTNERSHIP.
Celebrating 122 Years Customer Service at its Finest | Here to serve you 24/7 See us at Booth 1109 harmony-clothes.com
ONES TO WATCH
Todd Patrick
WHAT’S NEW? THESE TWO BRANDS ARE SURE TO ADD FRESH ENERGY TO YOUR STORE. BY STEPHEN GARNER TODD PATRICK
Desyree Nicole got her start in fashion through the world of sports. She played Division I basketball throughout college and moved to New York after graduating to pursue a pro career. After her contract fell through, Nicole found solace in fashion, first by becoming a stylist for NFL players, then moving onto designing full looks for her clients. Now possessing a full-line luxury designer collection called Todd Patrick, Nicole is moving full-throttle into the fashion world. The brand’s best-selling items to-date are the 100 percent silk garments for summer and its wool coats for the winter season. Retails range from $95 up to $1300. Todd Patrick also offers bespoke garments for athletes and other clientele. So far, the brand has found success in Hushlife Boutique in New Jersey and Back of House. For fall/winter 2020, the brand will be investing more into finding solid retail partners through the team at MLX PR on the West Coast, who’s recently signed to represent them for both wholesale and press. Speaking of fall 2020, the brand’s newest collection will be an ode to Nicole’s hometown, Waterford, Michigan. “Called ‘A Letter from Michigan,’ the collection embodies the story of someone who came from the bottom to become successful,” adds Nicole. “It’s an elevated take on what Michigan menswear ought to be.”
VESTIGE
When good friends Mark DiMuzio and Kyle Derleth met in New York City nine years ago, they both possessed a passion for design. They eventually teamed up in the summer of 2014 with the ambition of creating a better graphic t-shirt brand. Before then, Derleth worked in motion graphic design for advertising for 10 years and DiMuzio came from a multi-brand showroom in New York as a brand manager, representing top menswear lines. Called Vestige, the duo has created a self-dubbed “non-graphic, graphic t-shirt” line that features art-inspired and minimalistic prints for creatives and modern professionals who are looking for a new way to express themselves outside of traditional logo tees. Retails prices range from $48 to $135. And, retailers have been liking this different approach to
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graphic t-shirts. “Our retailers have included partners like Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s to great specialty stores and boutiques across the U.S.,” says DiMuzio. “We’ve also worked with retailers in Japan in the past and we’re looking to expand our presence internationally into UK, Europe, Australia and Canada.” What’s next for Vestige? “Our 2020 calendar is our most exciting yet,” adds DiMuzio. “With announcements coming soon on artist collaborations and new category offerings, we can tease that we will be launching a new collaboration early this year with the Josef Albers Foundation.”
LIVE BEYOND YOUR STORY
2/5 - 2/7 PROJECT LAS VEGAS BOOTH 62411 2/16 - 2/18 CHICAGO COLLECTIVE BOOTH 10081
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SURE BETS FOR FUN IN LAS VEGAS BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON
BARBERSHOP CUTS AND COCKTAILS YOU CAN GET a haircut or the hair of the dog at this unusual space in The Cosmopolitan Hotel. During the day, gents in need of grooming can kick back in a barber’s chair for a classic cut, beard trim or straight razor shave, all while being invited to enjoy a complimentary selection of fine-aged whiskeys. In the evening, the joint is home to a swanky hideaway bar that features an extensive whiskey selection and modern takes on vintage cocktail favorites. Talk about the best of both worlds! (3708 S. Las Vegas Blvd. 702-698-7000)
108 DRINKS THERE’S MORE THAN one way to get high in Las Vegas. Just head to 108 Drinks, located on the 108th floor of recently rebranded The Strat Hotel, and indulge in elevated craft cocktails, such as the Big Shot (made with Patrón Añejo); the 360 (made with Grey Goose, peach schnapps, cranberry and orange juice); as well as the Pure Insanity (made with Cruzan Rum, Myers’ Float, triple sec, orgeat, pineapple and orange juice). You may never come down. (2000 S. Las Vegas Blvd. 702-380-7777)
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BEER PARK LITERALLY BIGGER AND better than ever, this rooftop bar at Paris Las Vegas recently more than doubled in size with the opening of a 10,000-square-foot indoor area for dining, drinks, karaoke and games to complement its famed outdoor rooftop bar and grill. The comfortable, oversized seating has the feel of a living room, with dozens of HDTVs offering prime views of the game from every seat, and there’s an array of arcade and carnival games that include Skee-Ball, Pop-A-Shot and darts. And, of course, everywhere you look, there’s beer, with dozens of ales, IPAs, lagers, white beers and more available on tap or in bottles. Head on over! (3655 S. Las Vegas Blvd. 702-444-4500)
AMBRA ITALIAN KITCHEN & BAR SAY “CIAO, BELLA” to this beautiful new eatery and lounge in the MGM Grand. The ultra-appealing menu ranges from must-have starters, such as an ora king salmon crudo to an arugula and beet salad with ricotta salata to a warm octopus carpaccio. For the main course, consider one of the sumptuous homemade pastas, such as a bucatini carbonara, or you can take a different route with grilled branzino or a ribeye steak. Don’t forget to leave room for delicious desserts such as a classic tiramisu! (3799 S. Las Vegas Blvd. 702-891-7600)
HATSUMI THIS NEW EATERY at the now-trendy Fergusons Motel on Fremont Street brings a bit of Japan to the Southwest, focusing on traditional Omotenashi-style hospitality that invokes the “subliminal happiness” found at a 1980s hotel lobby bar in Tokyo. The restaurant features traditional robata izakaya dining with a yakitori bar—which means diners can order luscious skewers containing chicken (in many variations), pork belly, veal sweetbreads, beef filet, quail and a host of veggie options. Other delicacies on top include gyoza with pork, house-made tofu, lomi lomi with ocean trout, eggplant katsu, edamame and more. Yep, good things are definitely happening downtown! (1028 Fremont St. 702-268-8939)
CHOSUN HWARO & NARA TEPPAN FOR SOME PEOPLE, barbecue means brisket and ribs. But those folks have clearly never had Korean BBQ. This expansive 13,000-square-foot dining space inside the Miracle Mile shops boasts 30 Korean BBQ tables and 12 teppanyaki tables where one can order classic table-grilled meat options like pearl steak and boneless kalbi that will please even the pickiest carnivore. Other guests can take advantage of a full sushi menu and everyone will indulge happily in specialty cocktails like the Knight’s Voyage (made with Tanqueray Rangpur gin, Aperol, house-made orange bitters and fresh lemon juice) or a wide variety of sake and soju! Talk about a house of Seoul! (3663 S. Las Vegas Blvd. 702-857-7676)
WHILE NOT EXACTLY a hidden gem, this restaurant at the Wynn Las Vegas has recently revealed a stunning expansion, which takes advantage of its unbeatable setting in a lush garden overlooking the pool, making it worth either a first or return visit. The menu emphasizes small plates including hand-cut charcuterie, bacon-wrapped dates and saltroasted beets, while the incredible wine list offers over 250 bottles (and 50 wines by the glass) from the finest boutique producers from around the world. So, come hide away and get lost for a while! (3131 S. Las Vegas Blvd. 702-770-7375)
Sometimes, the perfect antidote to the hustle-and-bustle of Las Vegas is an intimate evening hearing one of the world’s great singers. If you’re still in town on Feb. 7, Myron’s Cabaret Jazz at The Smith Center hosts the incomparable Julie Budd. A teen star in the 1960s, Budd still delights worldwide audiences with classics from the Great American Songbook. (361 W. Symphony Park Ave. 702-749-2000)
MR MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY 2020
JULIE BUDD AT MYRON’S CABARET JAZZ
LA CAVE WINE AND FOOD HIDEAWAY
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BANKSY : GENIUS OR VANDAL?
MANY ARTISTS HAVE become onenamed wonders, from Monet and Van Gogh to Basquiat and Warhol. And then there is the truly one-named Banksy, whose works will be displayed inside the Fashion Show mall’s new Immersion Vegas space. The appropriately named “Banksy: Genius or Vandal?” will showcase more than 70 original creations from the groundbreaking and mysterious street artist, including “one of a kind” artworks, 3D objects, limited editions, video installations and a specially-created multimedia presentation. Meanwhile, exclusive merchandise will be available inside the retail store. Genius, indeed. (3200 S. Las Vegas Blvd. 725-600-0081)
PLANET 13 IT’S ONE THING to have your cake and eat it too, but how about buying your favorite CBD product and having a satisfying snack or cappuccino while you’re at it? It’s all possible at Planet 13, which now has a large bistro/pizzeria (operated by the owners of Arizona’s famed Rickety Café) and ultra-enticing coffee shop in its supersized complex. As an all-in-one experience, it’s out of this world! (2548 W. Desert Inn Rd. 702-815-1313)
RUPAUL’S DRAG RACE LIVE!
LIFE CAN BE a drag, but your nighttime entertainment doesn’t have to be. And it won’t be now
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that some of the most famous drag queens in the world are performing in RuPaul’s Drag Race Live! at the Flamingo Las Vegas. Each live performance is packed with outrageous comedy, eye-popping fashions, over-the-top singing and dancing and numerous twists and turns that will leave the audience begging for more. Be warned, though, the atmosphere of the show encourages audience members’ participation. Then again, who wouldn’t want to be part of such fun? (3555 S. Las Vegas Blvd. 702-733-3111)
SIXTH+MILL MANY VISITORS TO The Venetian Hotel feel instantly transported to Italy, and their “trip” now has an added attraction: sixth+mill ristorante, pizzeria and bar, located in St. Mark’s Square of The Grand Canal Shoppes, allows diners to savor dishes from the southern regions of Italy. The menu includes hand-crafted Neapolitan style pizzas along with an array of homemade pastas, including a lighter-than-air gnocchi sorrentina and an enticing pasta with clams. Grab a gondola and go! (3355 S. Las Vegas Blvd. 702-414-1227)
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S A L E S C O N TA C T : T O D D B E R N S T E I N - 9 1 7. 2 5 1 . 9 6 1 7
THE ORIGINAL SINCE 1963 W W W. B E N S H E R M A N . C O M
PHOTOGRAPHY BY MENELIK PURYEAR
SO, WHAT’S WITH L.A. ANYWAY? A (SHORT) TALE OF HOW A LONELY NEW YORKER FOUND INSPIRATION IN TINSELTOWN. BY STEPHEN GARNER LATE LAST YEAR, I was lucky enough to spend a few weeks (with a break in between) in Los Angeles. I went because I felt a desire, a need, to visit and explore more of what the city has to offer. Because for
some time, I’ve been losing quite a few of my New York friends (some of which I’ve known since my FIT days) to the City of Angels. It’s true, most of my fashion school cohorts I graduated with have moved west,
FASHION DIRECTOR’S LETTER
and they’re not the only ones. Quite frankly, there seems to be a migration of sorts upon us. Many New York creatives have decided to trade in their sardine can-sized apartments for the land of eternal sunshine. And I wanted to know why! So, I packed my bags and headed to La La Land on a very ambitious mission to see as many retailers and designers as I could in three days. What resulted was a lot of chuckles from locals saying, “You’re never going to get six appointments done in one day, there’s too much traffic,” or, my personal favorite, “What’s the rush?” Boy, if I had a nickel. ... Anyway, I proved them wrong in the end. And, sure, I got back to my hotel at 10 pm every night starved and completely spent, but I loved it – I was living my California dreamin’ fantasy. The obvious reasons as to why so many Millennials are flocking west are evident—the idyllic weather and gorgeous sunsets are nothing to scoff at (although, as a native east coaster, the faint hint of wildfire smoke lingering in the air as I dined al fresco was a bit alarming). But the more time I spent speaking with designers and retailers, an overwhelming creative energy became more and more palpable. So tangible that I’m here to let you on a little secret: The myth that Angelenos don’t possess enough work ethic (compared to the back-breaking, unhealthy New York workaholic mentality) was completely debunked. The people I met during my time in L.A. are some of the most innovative and hardworking retailers and designers out there. Not one of them complained of poor sales. Not one of them asked me “how to get a younger consumer.” They just get it. They get that you have to evolve to stay interesting. And, for some, moving to southern California helped them do just that. So, what’s the big answer to my big question? You’ll have to continue on to find out. I’m not going it give it away that easily.
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PALMIERS DU MAL.
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On left: PALMIERS DU MAL. On right: Jacket, hoodie, pants by BTFL; sneakers by FILLING PIECES.
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On left: Jacket, shirt and pants by ONYRMRK; sneakers by FILLING PIECES. On right: BAJA EAST.
On left: PROPAGANDA AGENCY. On right: BLDWN. 34
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On left: Jacket, shirt, pants by MATIAS; sneakers by FILLING PIECES. On right: LES TIEN. 36
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MARKET TRENDS
ONCE UPON A TIME IN
HOLLY WOOD THE WHO, WHAT, WHEN, WHY, AND HOW OF WHAT’S GOING ON IN L.A.’ S MENSWEAR COMMUNITY. BY S TEPHEN GARNER WHEN YOU THINK of fashion capitals around the world, the obvious always pops up: Paris, London, Milan, Tokyo, New York. But with a new decade upon us, Los Angeles is staking its claim as a creative force in fashion. If the ’70s through early ’90s was a golden age of the city’s fashion scene, the early aughts took an unfortunate turn when L.A. “style” became synonymous with trucker hats, Ugg boots and Juicy Couture velour tracksuits. Now, there’s an optimism and an easeful elegance defining the city’s most beloved labels.
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So much so, that New York-based creatives are frequently flocking west for a new point of view under the endless sun and towering palm trees. But Angelenos have more than New Yorkers to thank for the city’s sartorial rehab and rebirth—it’s largely due to a new generation of designers committed to local production and craftsmanship and taking a grassroots approach to brand-building. From the likes of John Elliott, Amiri, Fear of God, Matias, Les Tien, The Elder Statesmen, Rhude, Outerknown and countless other menswear brands that were born in L.A. over the last
Palmiers du Mal
decade, the community is thriving. To dive deeper into this phenomenon, MR traveled to Los Angeles to speak with both native designers and ones who have relocated their operations to Tinseltown. We also made sure to stop by as many retailers as we could, although we know we did not make a reasonable dent, as the retail scene in L.A. is growing more and more each day. In fact, with every person we spoke to, we learned of yet another cool vintage store, men’s shop or concept retailer that we had to speak to, but time was our enemy. Nonetheless, we gathered a solid group to help us investigate what’s really going on in the City of Angels.
WHY ARE CREATIVES FLOCKING TO L.A.?
MR MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY 2020
Our first stop once we landed was West Hollywood mainstay Fred Segal. We met with the retailer’s vice president of men’s merchandising, Brian Nyilas, who just so happens to be a former New Yorker. “L.A. is hot right now, not just in temperature,” he says. (Editor’s note: we were visiting in late October when it was around 90 degrees outside). “Nowadays, you can plug in and work anywhere in the world with the help of technology, and this notion has brought incredible people here in the recent years from all types of industries. I mean, why wouldn’t you? The weather, versatility of landscapes from beach to mountains, iconic landmarks, and the thriving local economy.” Nyilas does note that there is downside to all of this migration with the increasing prices in real estate and the new influx of more cars, which lead to, you guessed it, traffic congestion. Later that day we caught up with another former New Yorker, Paul Witt at his downtown Arts District store called Wittmore. He entered L.A. retail through a pop-up shop inside the former shop that Liberty Fairs owned. Witt was only supposed to stay for four weeks, but it quickly turned into a three-month stint and before he knew it, he had his own
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MARKET TRENDS
BLDWN
tattoos of palm trees, and coined the Instagram handle @scottlovespalmtrees. But, as his business grew, it got more difficult to manage from New York (the brand has always done a majority of its production in L.A.). Studenberg made the leap and moved out to L.A. two years ago. “We were already producing about 60 percent of the collection out here—my knitwear, wovens, sweatshirts, and terry are all out here,” he told us during a visit to his Laurel Canyon home and studio. “I used to be able to work with our factories via FaceTime, but it just got to be too difficult. Now I can see them whenever I want.” Another New York designer who has
made the move, at least partially, to L.A. is Shane Fonner of Palmiers du Mal. He has been living the bi-coastal dream for about two years now and is loving every minute of it. “I have been living in New York for the past 18 years, and if you just look at the sheer physicality of the city, it’s very vertical, and a bit closed in upon, with an obvious lack of nature,” Fonner says. “When I was younger, I could deal with that, but as I got older I was craving space. And in L.A. you can still find a studio to be creative in that isn’t going to break the bank all the while being in a more horizontal, spread-out city.” “L.A. is a city of optimism,” says BLDWN’s menswear designer Joe
Baja East
MANUFACTURERS IN LOS ANGELES ARE MORE WILLING TO WORK WITH YOUNG DESIGNERS ON THIER CONCEPTS, RATHER THAN JUST TURING OUT WHAT’S HOT AT THE MOMENT.”
MR MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY 2020
shop on West 3rd Street. Six months later he packed up his condo in Hoboken, New Jersey and hasn’t looked back. Witt says that he personally relocated because he saw revitalization happening in design, interior, culture, and art and he really wanted to be a part of the change. “I said, let’s just try it and see what happens. If I fail, then at least I took a chance.” And that chance has paid off. Since the opening of his 3rd Street store, Witt has gone on to open two more stores in L.A., one in the Arts District downtown and another in Malibu. Moving on to the brand side, just two blocks away from Wittmore’s Arts District location resides the showroom and office of emerging brand BTFL. Co-creative director Alejandro Rodriguez was quick to point out to MR that while he is a native Angelino, he initially tried to start a brand in New York. “I started as an intern at 7 For All Mankind and was also painting sneakers for hip hop artists and celebrities,” Rodriguez tells us. “Then a lady approached me to pay for me to come to New York if I help her kid learn about design. Now, as crazy as that sounds, I did it. I found this one factory in the Garment District in midtown that worked with Ralph Lauren, so he seemed legit. But this was around the same time of peak Roccawear and Sean John, so my samples ended up coming back to me in a 4XL, and I knew then that I was going to have issues trying to launch something there.” “Now, as an established brand back in L.A., all of my factories are supporting me and wanting me to succeed,” Rodriguez continued. “I feel like the manufacturers out here are more willing to work with young designers on their concepts, rather than just turning out what’s hot at the moment.” For Scott Studenberg, the creative director of fashion label Baja East, the love out West was only a matter of time. He has family in San Diego and has been visiting southern California ever since he was a child. Studenberg felt so drawn to the area that he even started getting
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MARKET TRENDS
Wittmore
“THERE HASN’T BEEN ANYTHING BUT DISRUPTION IN THE PAST FIVE YEARS IN RETAIL HERE IN LOS ANGELES.” Sadler. “The quality of life here is genuinely one of the best in the world. Its beaches, mountains, cultural diversity and relaxed mindset put designers at ease. It’s much easier to create when you feel at peace and connected to your environment no matter where you are in the world. California in general has always been progressive, adventurous, and inclusive. Designers thrive here.” For Outerknown co-founder and
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creative director John Moore, there has always been a great community of artists and designers in the city. But, what’s changed over the years is that other cities are taking L.A. more seriously. He credits this to the recession of 2008 when real estate plummeted, a lot of creatives lost their jobs, and were looking for their next gig. Many of these “lost” artists made their way to L.A. because there were still great
spaces, like his brand’s space in Culver City, that were affordable. “It used to be that New York would be the place I would go when I could scrape together enough money for an inspiration trip,” Moore says. “I would see a little bit of everything and I thought it had the best retail in the world. Now, I can confidently say that Los Angeles would give any global city a run for its money. I still love visiting my friends in New York, but they are quicker trips now. I would much rather go to Tokyo where it seems to still have more of a pulse on what’s next.”
WHAT’S HAPPENING IN RETAIL? “I couldn’t tell you that there hasn’t been anything but disruption in the past five years in retail here in Los Angeles,” Mark Werts, the CEO of American Rag declared as we ate lunch
Propaganda Agency
of downtown L.A. that made it okay for other retailers, who didn’t want to be in the now overly commercial shopping hubs, to open stores in other locations that aren’t traditionally associated with fashion. Now you can find great menswear stores in neighborhoods not normally associated with your typical hubs. Sure, West Hollywood, Mid-City, Beverly Hills, Venice and Malibu are still the major players, but brands and retailers are opening stores in more “local” neighborhoods like downtown, Silverlake, and even Manhattan Beach and Pasadena. “I think social media has such a big part in what’s happening and why destination retail is becoming so successful,” says Abby Schwartz, the men’s buyer at Ron Herman. “Stores can build a great brand online and, in turn, create a great turnout in-store without having to be in the traditional shopping neighborhoods. The days of seeing lines outside of stores may not happen as frequently as it once did, but I still see it. I believe stores that are pushing events and activations to build a community and lifestyle around their store are the successful ones.” For Witt, he has built his destination store locations around the communities they reside in. “There are 450 apartments in
MR MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY 2020
at his store’s fabulous restaurant. “What’s going on here, and globally, is a mirror of the advancement of technology, a growing number of choices of where people can buy items, political ideas, and cultural ideas. On top of this, the new generation coming up is concentrating more on sustainability so they have a different point of view of how retail should be.” Werts considers his store as entertainment retail. “If you don’t create a reason for someone to get off the couch and get in their car to visit your store, then no one will come. It’s that simple,” he says. And, boy has be created a reason. From antiques, to pottery and homegoods from all over the world, to vintage fashion, shoes, denim, and a great café, it’s hard to not find a reason to visit American Rag. Werts also noted that he has taken his concept internationally with a location in Dubai, and soon Abu Dhabi. Those locations are amped up even more with the latest technology from smart mirrors to talking robots that greet you at the entrance. More disruption has come to the city with the movement away from shopping centered around main boulevards, like Robertson and Melrose, to more of a “destination” model. Almost everyone we spoke with on our trip noted the opening of Dover Street Market in a nondescript part
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MARKET TRENDS
Outerknown’s John Moore
the communities they reside in. “There are 450 apartments in the same complex as this store (Arts District), with 700 more apartments being built across the street,” he says. “Coupled with the top architecture school in the country, SCI-Arc being just across the way, too, there are a lot of potential customers coming through here.” Witt also noted that in the case of his new Malibu location, locals and tourists alike are loving the mom-and-pop feel of his store that offers a larger range of quirky fashion pieces than his other two stores. And for Fred Segal, it has focused on curation of the best brands in the business and letting those brands have a say in what their merchandise looks on the salesfloor. Nyilas gave us an example of one model where a retailer will essentially lease floor space and merchandise the environment with the product the store buys, and gets to set the design (within reason) of that
space. He also pointed out his Kith shop on the lower level of the retailer’s Sunset flagship store. Nyilas says when Kith was interested in exploring the L.A. market, they came together with the alignment of similar visions of what retail can be, not about how can we compete with each other.
WHAT’S GOING ON WITH MANUFACTURING? This topic is the only one where our group of designers and retailers could not agree. Some suggested that the quality of the products being produced in the city aren’t up to par to items being made in Italy or even the Garment District in New York (which also has to do with the shortage of sewers in America). Others argue that the industry is thriving in the denim and cut-and-sew knit market (the city’s bread and butter), but there is still more work to be done to improve infrastructure in order
Fred Segal Sunset
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MR MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY 2020
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MARKET TRENDS
“CALIFORNIA HAS ALWAYS BEEN PROGRESSIVE, ADVENTUROUS, AND INCLUSIVE. DESIGNERS THRIVE HERE.”
What our panel can agree on is that sewing jobs are largely filled by immigrants from Latin America and Asia who have little to no training, which can hurt the quality of the production. And the crack down on immigration is definitely hindering the development of this workforce, especially since most American citizens today don’t want to pursue sewing as a profession. Werts of American Rag brilliantly said, “American kids today want to be YouTube stars, while other kids in foreign countries are dreaming of moving here to become engineers and scientists.” A sign of the times, indeed. BTFL’s Rodriguez has also noticed a decrease in resources that have contributed to the hard times factories are under. “Factories are shutting down more frequently recently, which, to me, doesn’t make sense since there are more people trying to make clothes here,” he says. “But even the fabric shows, like the LA Textile show, which used to fill the whole 13th floor of the California Mart with fabrics from Italy, Japan, Turkey, etc. I went recently and it was smaller than half the original size. Everybody says L.A. is the new fashion capital, but why isn’t there more money and more resources being invested to sustain this growth?” Some designers have taken matters into their own hands and started their own in-house workshops like Matias Sandoval, founder of his eponymous denim brand Matias, based in Gardena, CA. “There are still hundreds of sewing
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contractors, washhouses, machine shops, fabric stores—so many of these dedicated to the denim manufacturing market,” he declares. “But, we decided to do everything in-house at my studio to control the quality and workflow. Plus, it gives us the flexibility to sneak in custom pieces when we need to. But starting out, having this infrastructure was crucial. You can literally find someone that can make anything here.” Through our research, we were able to get in contact with one local factory in downtown L.A. that specializes in luxury fashion knits called PDR Knitting. The operation is ran by Evita Chu, who started her business by accident (quite literally) 13 years ago when a severe car accident caused her to have to quit her design job and stay home to recover. While she was home, a friend asked her to knit a few sweaters, and they were a hit. Through word of mouth, and several trial-and-error milestones, Chu now boasts a client roster ranging from fashion clients like the artist Sterling Ruby (who launched his own brand in 2018 called SR Studio LA CA), Fear of God, Reese Cooper, Camp High, Baja East, Grei New York, to homegoods and even dog sweaters. Chu confidently says that she is one of only two or three luxury knitwear producers in the entire United States. Her secret to success is her willingness to work with individual clients on out-of-the-box ideas. She researches their concept, then will direct them to a specific yarn and technique that would be appropriate for their collection. And magic is born. So, what does all of this mean? It means that L.A. is a place where creatives can thrive through no shortage of opportunities that await them. Will we start saying, “If you can make it in Los Angeles, you can make it anywhere?” We’re not sure, but if nothing else, go explore and get inspired on how you can reinvigorate your own business. Whatever that may be.
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Lane Wilson (general manager), Amanda Hyneman and Will Lewis (owners) strive to differentiate the mix.
N E I L SO N ’S OXFORD, MS
Established: 1839 17,000-sq.-ft. selling space, restaurant (leased) Will Lewis Jr., owner; Lane Wilson, manager Key brands: HSM, Polo, Lauren (Peerless), Vineyard Vines, Southern Marsh, Cutter & Buck
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WILL LEWIS JR. is the current owner of this very special establishment, the oldest store in the South and first on our list of independent menswear merchants (35 percent of their mix is men’s; they also sell women’s, kids, china and crystal). “We’re only the second family to own the store: My father ran it for the Neilson family; my daughter is running it now,” Lewis says. Lewis attributes their longevity to three factors: they own their real estate; they’re in a college town with an upscale clientele; and their team has a genuine passion for the business. “My father Will was totally dedicated to the store: He spent 75 years there; he was working 10 days before he died. “We’re unique in a lot of ways, almost an anachronism,” Lewis continues. “We’re in a town of 20,000; the university is another 20,000. We’re a mile from the university; students and their families come to Oxford to shop.” According to men’s GMM Lane Wilson,
(who’s worked at the store for six years: He had been a rep in Dallas where he met his wife, then a buyer at Neilson’s…), recent men’s business has been healthy but less dependent on tailored clothing. “Counter to stereotypes of southern guys, we’re not even selling bowties or pocket squares! Of course, navy blazers always sell for fraternity rush, suits sell for formals and interviews but in general, what’s driving sales is sportswear. We try to be different than the majors; our buyers are well aware of what competition is doing. We’re moving to more upscale, modern looks: Brax, Mizzen&Main, performance fabrics, trimmer fits….” With the store’s rich history dating back to pre-Civil War, Lewis is most proud of a (framed) letter from William Faulkner that hangs in the store. “When he couldn’t pay his bill, he offered us an autographed book instead of cash. My dad wisely accepted his offer. Faulkner scholars now flock to the store just to see this letter.”
I SA AC BA K E R ERIE, PA
Founded: 1850 by Bernhard Baker Size: 2,100 sq. ft plus 600 sq. ft. tailor shop Key brands: Hart Schaffner Marx, Daniel Hechter, Riviera by Jack Victor, Tommy Bahama, Johnston & Murphy, Christopher Lena, Pacific Silk
M I L L E R B ROS. NEWT0N KEENE, NH
Founded by: William J. Wichland, in 1916 (with roots dating back to the 1840s) Current owners: David Wichland (60 years at Miller Bros.-Newton), John Wichland (also 60 years) and Bruce Wichland (40 years) Size: 5,000 square feet Key brands: Jack Victor, Tommy Bahama, Viyella, 1844 (private label), Harris Tweed, Johnston & Murphy
DESCRIPTION: a full-service menswear haberdashery offering top quality products and exceptional service
DAVID BAKER SHERMAN can’t remember when he didn’t go to work with his dad on Saturdays. “I basically grew up in retail. After college, I moved back home to work in the store. Maybe I felt a bit of family guilt/pressure, but I was always free to choose. In the end, I stayed on—Generation No. 6, now celebrating 170 years in business. “We are Erie’s independent clothing store, where you’ll discover unique products not found in the local big boxes. We currently have four people in our tailor shop: one master tailor, one very seasoned seamstress and two apprentices (one capable of running our shop). We’ve always offered free tailoring for the life of the garment. The big box stores charge for alterations, and most don’t have skilled tailors to ensure the finished garments are correctly fitted.” Sherman acknowledges a market that’s not high-end. “Our median household income precludes selling luxury brands,” he says. “But I was taught to be fair with pricing: You might not always be the least expensive, but keep consistent and the consumer interested in quality over price will see the value you offer.” Another weapon, he explains, is his diverse staff. “We have quite a variety of personalities among our staff. Therefore, we’re able to easily connect with all types of customers. My father used to say that we can make 80 percent of our clients very happy, 15 percent will be indifferent and the rest, well, sometimes no matter what you do, certain customers won’t be satisfied. My dad’s advice: If you give it your best, you can be proud of that….” Driving sales this season: tailored clothing. “We’re still a tailored clothing store, the place to go when looking for professional guidance on one’s wardrobe. Although business casual continues to take over in my community, we still have our niche as the area’s men’s clothier. Of course, vendors selling direct to consumers hurts small independents: It’s tough to compete with big box stores, online stores and now our own suppliers. But we independent retailers are a headstrong bunch, determined to fight the battle. Yes, we get beat up once in a while, but bottom line, we all love the game.”
LONGEVITY SECRET: According to Bruce Wichland, who’s spent the past 40 years working at the store, the real secret of its lasting success is its unique family dynamic. “Over the years, all employees have been treated like family and therefore treat the business as if it were their own. Our core value is establishing caring, personal relationships with customers and treating them the way you would want to be treated. Other tenets of the business: carrying quality products, evolving with changing styles and trends and offering exceptional customer service. All of these factors continue to contribute to the longevity of our business.”
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100+ L E V Y ’S I N C NASHVILLE, TN
Founded: 1855 by Zadoc Levy, David’s great-great grandfather Size: 10,000-sq.-ft. selling space Top menswear brands: Canali, Hickey Freeman, Eton, Patrick Assaraf, Corneliani, Jack Victor, Joshua Trent (private label), Ballin Men’s to women’s: 75% men’s, 25% women’s Menswear mix: 45% clothing, 30% sportswear, 25% furnishings Mission: “To remain the ultimate destination for luxury labels, on-site tailoring and superlative customer service in a relaxed, friendly setting.”
AS A KID, David Levy hung out in his father’s store just so he could spend more time with his dad. While Ralph Z. Levy Sr. loved having his son around, he discouraged him from choosing a career in retailing. Sadly, Ralph died in 1976 while David was still in college, and David went to work in the iconic Nashville store founded by his great-great grandfather. Levy’s is now owned by David, his wife Ellen, and family. In the best possible sense, the store remains an extension of the family’s creativity, work ethic and genuine warmth. As a World War II veteran of the “greatest generation,” David’s dad was a six-plus-daya-week clothier. David describes Ralph as both “a big bear who totally dominated the
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Ellen and David Levy keep the vibe relaxed and friendly.
store” and “the kindest man around” but always with an incredible eye for detail. “If a size 15 ½ x 32 shirt was in the wrong place, he could spot it from the other side of the store.” David remains inspired by his dad’s eye for detail, his ability to make friends and his involvement in the community. Asked for longevity secrets, David believes in change. While he and Ellen are “loyal to a fault,” they constantly seek out new vendors and ways to differentiate themselves. “Our goal is to always be a bit different, to try something more creative than our normal mix, and nudge our clients to try something new. In order to compete in today’s challenging retail environment, we must constantly embrace the changes that exist in everyday
life and understand the needs and wants of our community. Our business is about positive relationships; our core values include integrity, community, maintaining commitments, and staying profit-driven.” Believing that clients gravitate toward the energy of youth, David and Ellen have added some young sellers to the team. “We find that all of our sales associates challenge us to teach and learn every day,” says David. “We want them to enjoy building wardrobes and sharing their clients’ special events and success stories. It’s so important that each experience for our young customers is a great one and that we exceed their expectations while building long-term relationships.”
KOS I TC H E K’S LANSING, MI
Founded: 1865 by David’s greatgrandfather, Henry Kositchek Current owner: David Kositchek Size: 10,000 sq. ft. Top brands: Canali, Jack Victor, Byron, Eton, St. Croix Mission statement: Service, quality, integrity and fashion Bonus attraction: a four-chair grooming salon
IT’S A TYPICAL 19TH century ragsto-riches story: Henry Kositchek, born to immigrant parents from Austria, first peddled dry goods from a wagon before opening a store in 1865. He judiciously moved the store to Lansing, the new state capital, where his son Louis grew the business by selling top quality suits to Lansing’s lawyers and lobbyists. Louis’ son Richard took it to the next level, guiding the store through a depression, a world war and a baby boom
during his 70-year tenure. Richard’s son David, who started working in the store at 12 years old, is now the proud fourth-generation owner of this iconic menswear establishment. “I always knew I wanted to work with my father and grandfather,” he notes. “We’re known for our quality merchandise, our high level of personal service and our fine tailoring. The store was founded when Lincoln was president: i\It’s just steps from the state capital so we sell a lot of suits! We hang more than 1000 sleeves; we have five busy tailors; and counter to industry trend, we still have a huge neckwear business.” The store is also widely respected for giving back to the community, a tradition that’s endured through four generations. “Our annual Dapper Dads fashion show benefits the local hospital which is the biggest employer in the state. Local businessmen serve as models and the event raises money for this wonderful cause. We also sponsor a Father’s Day writing contest that’s another successful fundraiser. We’re proud to be able to give back to the community that supports us.” Among his longevity secrets, David first credits his team. “The main reason we’ve been able to grow is thanks to a wonderful group of knowledgeable and dedicated sales professionals. Our general manager, Matt McLeod, was hired by my dad and has
been my right hand for 40 years. For 154 years, Kositchek’s has created a shopping environment that’s a unique blend of four generations. Prosperity has made it possible for us to grow and adversity has been our greatest teacher. We remain grateful for each one of our tailors and sales people: They are the ambassadors of our store.” Asked what he learned from his father and grandfather, David responds thoughtfully. “They taught me about civic responsibility and social activism. And that we’re more in the hospitality business than the clothing business. And how to make people feel comfortable the moment they enter the store.” From his grandfather, David also learned to get goods out of the stockroom. “‘You can’t sell from the stockroom,’” he’d often remind us. ‘Get it out on the selling floor.’ (I still hear him speak these words each time I go in our stockroom….)” Asked for his advice to aspiring retailers, he doesn’t hesitate. “Build strong relationships with your vendors and present merchandise like you believe in it: Narrow and deep is a far better strategy than broad and shallow.”
David Kostichek learned much from his father and grandfather.
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OA K H A L L MEMPHIS AND NASHVILLE, TN
Founded: 1859 by Sol Halle, Will’s great-great-great grandfather Size: Memphis 24,000 sq. ft., Nashville 12,000 sq. ft. Brands: “Luxury clothing labels do the most volume but our men’s sportswear and ladies’ brands are increasingly important.”
as well as Oak Hall Nashville while growing Oak Hall Memphis. BILL LEVY, WHO with his brother Bob is Oak Hall’s fourth generThese were definite highlights of the last 10 years….” ation, has worked at the store for the past 55 years. “I’ve learned that Will describes Oak Hall’s mission as “making people feel great;” the only thing that doesn’t change is core values: We try to run our his longevity secret is “treating people how we’d like to be treated.” business with the highest integrity, always treating our customers, What he loves most about the business is the people; his least employees and vendors with honesty and respect. Everything else favorite thing is the low margins. changes so I’ve learned to embrace the change…” What’s driving sales this season? “Our best customers drive While Bill says it’s hard to go back 160 years and pick the best the show,” says Will. “Service drives the show. People want to years, he lists the big moves. “In 1970 from downtown Memphis have a great time shopping; we offer value by simplifying the to a smaller location in East Memphis. Then in 1996 to our present shopping experience for them. After all, nothing happens until location where we’ve been for 23 years. Each move provided a new you sell something.” beginning. The most recent was our entry into the Nashville market with our new store in Green Hills.” Among the ups and downs over the years, Bill cites the 2008 recession as the biggest challenge. “I had to have a store meeting and ask all of our employees to take a 10 percent pay cut. We didn’t let anyone go and after the meeting, instead of being upset, most of our employees came up to me to say thank you. I was about 60 at the time; I wish I could have gone through that recession at a younger age…” Asked what he might have done differently, Bill responds that if he could change one thing, he would have started bringing his dog to the store sooner. “Having Jake at the store has been positive in so many ways. Customers love seeing him there. He reflects our values: warmth, loyalty, friendship. Plus I get to meet so many customers on a more personal level. Jake is also a therapy dog: I take him to St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital in Memphis every week, and that’s the most rewarding thing I’ve ever done. My grandfather taught me that since we receive so much from our community, we need to give back. We’re involved in many local charities in both Memphis and Nashville.” Part of Generation Five, Bob’s son Will started his career in public accounting. “I was bored Kids flock to the store out of my mind so when a unique and more to have their photo taken creative opportunity opened up with the Oak with Jake and Marshall. Hall buying team, I jumped on it. It included (Jake has 500 followers opening three Vineyard Vines’ partner stores on Instagram!)
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C H A N C E L LO R ’S COLUMBUS, GA
Founded: 1873 in Columbus, Ga. Size: 3500 sq. ft., two full-time tailors Key brands: H. Freeman, Peter Millar, store label clothing ($600-$800), Southern Tide, Filson, Barbour (including some ladies)
TO HEAR CURRENT store owner Roger Stinson tell it, Chancellor’s arose from the ashes of the Civil War. Alexander Claringdon Chancellor lived in a mansion at a crossroads in Virginia known as Chancellorsville. On May 1, 1863, the second bloodiest battle of the Civil War was fought there, and Stonewall Jackson was accidentally shot by his own men, dying five days later. Chancellor’s home was
used as a field hospital, but was destroyed by three days of repeated cannonball fire from the Union Army. Chancellor then rode south, settled in Columbus, Ga., and took a job at a dry goods store, which he purchased 10 years later in 1873. It stayed in the family until 2007 when it was bought by Stinson, a talented merchant who had been working for the Chancellor family since 1987. Stinson is intrigued with all the history but is mostly focused on maintaining original
family values while evolving the mix. “The store was always upscale menswear but I’ve added outdoors, hunting/fishing, a lot of custom clothing (suits, shirts, sportscoats) and numerous young men’s collections. Our niche remains service and fit but suits and sportcoats, once 70 percent of store volume, are now 20 percent. Hart Schaffner Marx remains a strong-selling label but there’s no brand loyalty any more. We use Baroni for margin, and it sells really well for us at excellent margins.”
RU B E N ’S AUGUS TA, G A
Established: 1898 by Max Ruben Current owners: Jeff Garelick and Bonnie Ruben Claim to fame: Augusta’s oldest family-owned department store
JEFF GARELICK JOKES that he became a retailer the best possible way: He married the boss’s daughter. But it’s the passion he and his wife Bonnie Ruben put into the business that has sustained it well into the third generation. The store was founded in 1898 by Max Ruben; Max’s son Paul (known to adoring customers as Mr. Paul) devoted 70 years of his life to carrying on his father’s legacy. Says Garelick, “Our customers love that we’re still a family business (40 percent of which is men’s). This past Thanksgiving, we had a grandfather, father and son come into the store; they bought suits, shirts and ties for all three generations. We love that! And we love when customers thank us for being here, noting that their father and grandfather shopped here. That’s why we do what we do.”
And what they do includes stocking incredibly broad selections of sizes, from 36 regular to 72 portly in men’s as well as huskies and slims in boys. They offer free alterations and still have house accounts. The boss is always in the store, and they know virtually all their customers by name. And amazingly, in this dress-down world, Garelick notes that what’s driving sales these days is dress-up apparel: suits between $200 and $500, dress shirts, dress shoes, hats and ties. “Thank God for people in Augusta who still dress up for church and dinners out,” concludes Garelick. “We love our customers!”
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100+ B E R L I N ’S CHARLESTON, SC
Founded: 1883 by Henry Berlinsky Current owners: Steve and Elaine Berlin Top brands: Canali, Hickey Freeman, Jack Victor, Corneliani, Coppley, Eton and Peter Millar.
IN THE SAME LOCATION—the historic section of downtown Charleston—and owned by the same family since 1883, Steve Berlin (fourth generation) could not be prouder of his store’s heritage. “Paul and Joanne Newman bought luggage here,” he recalls. “Bryant Gumbel shopped here. Pat Conroy was a good customer and friend—our store is mentioned in several of his books! We have regular customers from all over the world and at certain times of the year, we have more tourists than local shoppers.” The store was founded by Steve’s great-grandfather Henry Berlinsky and was ultimately handed to his grandfather, then his father and uncle. Steve joined the business in 1982 and his sister Elaine (who runs women’s) five years later. “Our mission is simple: to give the best personalized service and the best quality products our customers deserve, because they’re not just patrons, they’re also our friends. We compete in today’s market by giving a great selection and the best tailoring you can find in our region.” Steve acknowledges changes in the industry that have made it more difficult for menswear independents to succeed. “Although the internet has been the demise of many retail businesses, I believe that good specialty stores are getting stronger: Men still have to
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try on a suit. Still, with the precarious state of retailing today, you’ve got to love what you do or get out. This is a people business and it takes a certain personality type to be truly successful….” And according to many, no one better typifies that personality type than iconic merchant Henry Berlin, Steve’s dad, who died two years ago after spending a lifetime in the store. “He loved his customers and they all became his friends,” says Steve. “He was a real character, the Don Rickles of the apparel business who was full of one-liners and couldn’t resist giving customers a hard time. For example, a customer’s wife would say ‘I love this coat on my husband’ and Henry would say ‘Well we can’t trust your taste: you picked him!’ My uncle Alwyn was just as bad: A customer would be wearing an ugly shirt and Alwyn would literally rip it off him and give him a new one!” Asked for longevity secrets, Steve believes in investing back in the business. “We recently remodeled the store with new lighting and additional dressing rooms. Of course, our windows also serve as salespeople.” He believes in narrow and deep assortments (“new brands are less important than building what you have”) and in carrying better goods (“we open with Jack Victor at $1,000 and go up
from there….”) In addition to upgrading assortments, he’s been gravitating toward more modern (slimmer) fits. He provides two more tips: 1) Never let a customer walk out with the wrong garment and 2) Update trunk shows. “Our trunk shows had become stale so we renamed them fashion events and they’re reinvigorated. Our sales associates personally invite their key customers, and we promote on social media.” Although ladies’ fashion is a separate business run by Steve’s sister Elaine, Steve acknowledges its importance. “Our ladies bring in the men, and we really appreciate it,” he says. “Guys will often say, ‘I’ve got plenty to wear at home…’ but I’ve never heard those words spoken by a female….”
PA L AC E C LOT H I E RS WAT E R L O O, I A
Founded: 1898 by Harry Solomon and Albert Simon, moved to Waterloo in 1903 Key brands: Hart Schaffner Marx, Tallia, Jack Victor, Brax, 34 Heritage, Tommy Bahama Motto: “Clothing for life’s important moments”
AT AGE 48, Bud Field has been in retail for most of his life, starting out at age 14 working for his grandfather in the Cedar Falls store. He praises his grandfather Burton Field (“a great merchant who bought the business in 1936 for $22,000”) for teaching him well. “Nothing was handed to me: I had to earn
each step. But it’s a much tougher business today,” he confides. “We’re a suit store in an increasingly casual society. But we adapt; we try new things. You’ve got to take chances in our business: A buyer who doesn’t make mistakes is not a good buyer. The goal is to minimize the damage….” What’s driving sales today: wedding parties, traveler pants from Jack Victor, Brax pants ($198 retail), patterned sportcoats to wear with denim, Saxx underwear, Stantt shirts, On running shoes, denim from 34 Heritage and Jack of Spades, performance fabrics, Gruppo Bravo clothing. Among the reasons Field gives for the store’s longevity: good tailors. “Fit is very important to guys today and with our great tailors, we can offer exceptional fit. I don’t think our customers are ready to try the runway-inspired oversized fits: We have a lot of guys who have their pant legs tapered to 14-inch bottoms… And fashion hits more slowly in the Midwest. But I never say never: Everything cycles back but usually in a slightly different way so we have to spin it.”
Asked if he would try pleated pants again, he jokes that he still has the old pleated pants in stock. “But yes, I would try it again, probably single pleats to start.” An out-of-the-box merchant, Field has maximized sales by office calls. “Instead of waiting around for business to come here, I realized I could virtually add extra months to the year by visiting offices. I already knew most of the heavy hitters in town who own car dealerships and other businesses so why not turn their employees into clothing customers? It creates plus sales and new customers.” He’s also big on giving back to the community and takes much pride in the fashion show the store does for the hospital’s Festival of Trees celebration. “It’s the annual event that kicks off the holidays and always brings women into the stores to shop for their men.…” Although Field does not sell online yet, he’s considering it. “Customers think of us for their formalwear needs; we probably should publicize all the young, cool clothes we now carry.”
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100+ M I L L E R ’S O F J O H N STOW N , JOHNS T OWN, PA
Founded: July 1890 by Maurice Miller Current owner: Randall J. Clark, second generation of the Clark family to own the business (and also a master tailor) after his father H.J. Clark purchased it from the original owner’s son, Bob Miller, in 1968. Randy’s son Taylor will be the third generation of Clarks to own the business; he’s been working with his dad since he was 9, and full time for the past six years. Size: 3,200 sq. ft. (same location since inception) Top brands: Hart Schaffner Marx, Tommy Bahama, Ralph Lauren, Southern Tide and F/X Fusion Mission: To serve our local downtown and surrounding areas with the absolute best quality service; to remain in the same building we’ve been in since 1890. And, through good times and bad, to always give honor and give credit to God for continuing to bless our family business.
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Longevity secrets: We extend service beyond our building: delivering goods to customers’ homes, performing house calls, making after-hours appointments. We provide our customers with complimentary custom tailoring for life, as long as their purchase was made at our store. We also rent formalwear: We own our inventory of tuxedos, vests, ties, shirts and shoes so instead of ordering from a catalog, our customers can see, feel and try on. Love most: Satisfying our customers. However, we also really enjoy choosing new collections every season, meeting with new companies, and bringing in new brands in hopes of diversifying and attracting younger customers. Like least: It can be difficult dealing with customers who don’t understand that there are limitations to what we can provide. Also, competing with e-commerce businesses can be quite frustrating! Other interests: We own a local diner that has also been in town for more than 100 years, so that takes up much of our free time! We’re all avid Pittsburgh fans, so we love attending Steelers, Penguins or Pirates games. Also, Taylor likes to go out and discover new local bands. Other than that, it’s pretty much work all the time.
Driving sales: Bringing in new brands has really helped sales. Also, people realizing that we can alter any clothing according to their specifications has helped bring in younger guys who are always looking for the slimmest and tightest fit they can get. Lastly, even though we’ve always been a high-end men’s clothing store, adding casual clothing has rocketed sales to a new level! What’s needed: Our local economy reviving from a distressed state to a thriving one. And customers opting to shop local rather than online.
Randy, Mary, Taylor and Deb make it happen in Johnstown!
David Graves started his career as a sales associate in 1984.
A L E X A N D E R DAV I S BOISE, ID Established: 1891 by Moses Alexander Top menswear brands: Samuelsohn, Hickey Freeman, Jack Victor, Hiltl, Brax
DAVID GRAVES, current owner of Alexander Davis, loves talking about his store’s history, back to its founding by Moses Alexander in 1891, a year after Idaho gained statehood. “A merchant by
trade but with political aspirations, Moses joined the gold rush, heading out west and ending up in Boise,” Graves relates. “With a few bolts of fabric and some tailoring skills, he set up shop on 5th and Main;
miners would come in for their boots, gloves and dungarees, haggle over price for a custom-made suit (there was no hanging inventory in those days…) and even stash their gold dust in Moses’s safe. The business prospered thanks mostly to the well-earned trust between store owner and client. Moses went on to become mayor of Boise and the 11th governor of Idaho in 1919. He was also instrumental in establishing the first synagogue west of the Mississippi.” Fast forward nine decades: Graves took a job as a sales associate at Alexander Davis in 1984. “The tailors liked me and taught me how suits are constructed; this helped me tremendously when I became a manager, then a buyer. At the encouragement of the family, who wanted to find someone to continue their legacy and who allowed me to finance the sale via store profits, I became an owner. I’m now deeply committed to honor the history of this great store.” What’s driving sales now, says Graves, is a mix of dress-up with dress-down. “Outdoor brands like Filson and Barbour worn with Hiltl, Alberto or AG premium denim. It’s a cross-over look and a new way for our customers to dress; once guys try it, they like it and buy more.”
NORMAN STO C KTO N C LOT H I E R WINSTON-SALEM, NC
Founded: 1909 by Norman Stockton Current owner: Hill Stockton Key brands: Canali, Eton, Peter Millar, Hiltl, MAC, Gardeur, Johnnie-O Mission: Quality merchandise at a fair price with exemplary customer service. Driving sales: Sportcoats and 5-pocket pants (dress and casual)
NORMAN STOCKTON, right out of UNC, bought into the Mock-Bagby clothing store in 1909 and made it his own. His son Dick joined him in 1954; Dick’s son Hill in 1982. Hill Stockton is not uncomfortable talking about why they closed the store for a few years. “We closed because of some interesting-sounding opportunities that came our way. But as I told my industry buddies who said I was crazy to reopen, ‘You may be having more fun than you even realize.’ At the end of the day, we’re all in this business because it’s in our blood, because we love
Hill’s grandfather (Norman Stockton) with Hill’s dad (Dick Stockton) in the middle.
what we’re doing, and because of the genuine relationships we’ve established, with both our customers and our industry colleagues. “We’ve been successful by paying attention to our customers and their needs. My grandfather sold 1,000 felt hats a year. My dad sold hundreds of suits a month. Neither of them sold any 5-pocket pants. Bottom line, the one thing that has passed from each generation to the next is giving our customers (friends) great service and selling them clothing at a good value so they become customers for life. So far, that’s worked for 110 years.”
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100+ H O L M ES CEDARTOWN, GA
Key brands: S.Cohen, Ibiza, Haupt, Alberto, Levi’s, Sperry, Florsheim Mission: to provide exceptional service, perfect fit and distinctive product not available in big box stores
FOUNDED IN 1895 by W.K. Holmes, the store has been operating under its current owners (Bruce Casey and his sons Stephen and Ron) since 1980. As Stephen explains it, “My father had a store on the east side of town, my mother’s father (a sales rep for Hubbard Slacks) had a store on the west side. We had retailing in our blood and settled right in the middle: Cedartown, Ga., 60 miles northwest of Atlanta, in a county of 36,000 people.” The store has a boutique feel with brands including S.Cohen, Ibiza, Haupt, Alberto, Levi’s, Sperry and Florsheim. “Business has been good,” confides Stephen. “We’re selling a lot more tailored clothing than we had been. Guys are finding that their wives want to see them in more modern, slimmer-fit clothing and while they don’t generally like change, once they try a slimfit suit, they buy more.” Admitting that fashion trends hit more slowly in the Bible Belt, Stephen confides, “According to most retail experts, we’re not
even supposed to be here. We’re very old school: we don’t take returns or give refunds. We don’t sell online or do much email. We have no POS system and still hand-write tickets. But we believe in what we do, and we know what’s right and wrong.” Asked what he’s learned from his dad (who still comes into the store regularly, if only to meet with customers and take lunch orders), Stephen doesn’t hesitate. “He taught us to never sit down while working in the store so customers are comfortable approaching us. He also taught us to never pre-judge, to treat all customers with equal respect, whether they’re buying an expensive suit or just a T-shirt.” While both Stephen and Ron knew early on that they’d end up in the store, Stephen once had dreams of being a professional golfer. (Reluctant to reveal his scratch golfer status, we finally got him to acknowledge a recent ‘10 under’ score which, he insists, pales in comparison to the thrill he gets from an uptick in business...)
Ron, Stephen and Bruce Casey report an increase in tailored clothing.
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Three generations of Prices have introduced a small southern market to iconic brands.
P R I C ES’ STO R E FOR MEN SPAR TANBURG, SC
Founded by: Harry Price in 1903, with later assistance from his father-in-law Joseph Mann who had operated a small store in Newberry, S.C. Current owner: Harry Price. “Our family has been in retail in South Carolina since the 1850s.” Size: 4,000 sq. ft. in a landmark building in the center of downtown Top brands: Barbour, Jack Victor, Peter Millar, Southern Tide, Lauren by Ralph Lauren Claim to fame: Amazing customer service and on-time delivery
Longevity secrets: Goodwill built up from the loyalty of the community. A close and historic relationship with Wofford College and local families who have shopped with us for as many as five generations. Over the years, we’ve introduced this small southern market to brands that have become iconic: Levis, Bass Weejuns, Vineyard Vines, Burberry, Bill’s Khakis, Southern Tide, Peter Millar, Barbour and most recently, Saxx. Obviously, after more than 100 years, frequent reinvention and the ability to adapt are mandatory. What you love MOST about the business: I love the creative aspects: store and window displays, store layout, producing in house video ads for TV and in-house events, maintaining inventive social media posts. Like Least: I don’t always feel appreciated by some vendors. What you’ve learned: How to make quick decisions and solve problems daily. And that conditions can change very quickly. Interests beyond work: History and politics: national, local and family. Driving sales this season: Sportswear complementing the unexpected growth in five-pocket pants and renewed growth in semi-custom suits and jackets as men discover they need replacement clothing. Consumer confidence is up.
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A Kansas City streetcar system has introduced more customers to Michael’s.
M I C H A E L’S K A N S A S C I T Y, K S
Founded: 1905 by Michael Herbert Novorr, a Russian immigrant Current owner: Keith Novorr Size: 5,000 sq. ft., 24 employees Brands: Coppley, Jack Victor, Maxman, Tallia, Individualized, FX Fusion, Marcello Best Quote: “We never use the word ‘free’ in our marketing— nothing in life is free…”
MICHAEL HERBERT NOVORR was a Russian immigrant who came to the States for a better life. He somehow ended up in Minneapolis, then worked his way to Kansas City. According to Keith Novorr, the current owner, what’s driving sales now is wedding packages: a suit, shirt and tie for $265, alterations included. “When you consider that a rental is $175, this is terrific value for an extra 50 bucks…” (Keith’s son Michael is the one who first got them into the rental business about 10 years ago.) Annoyed by how many brands are selling direct to consumers, Keith is dropping vendors that promote on their websites and is actively seeking out makers that don’t sell direct. He’s growing his made-to-measure business and is
quite happy with Coppley. He also does well with Maxman, a half-canvas make with minimal fusing in a variety of fits at great margins. Thrilled with the transformation of downtown Kansas City, Keith notes that his walk-in traffic is up 50 percent based on a new streetcar system that stops in front of his store. (Although his street was torn up for a year and a half in 201314, the increased traffic has made up for it.) “This store is not run by one person,” Keith concludes. “My incredible tailors, sellers and my right-hand manager (Bob Moore) all deserve much of the credit.” Other than business, Keith’s passion is golf. He tries to take Thursday afternoons off and is working on improving his 8 handicap.
“MY GRANDFATHER George Koolakian was a bespoke tailor who came to the U.S. from Armenia to escape the genocide there,” says Ed, the current owner. “In 1905, he set up a tailoring and coat-making shop in downtown Syracuse with 8-10 tailors. Among their many projects at the time: crafting custom overcoats for Hickey Freeman. My dad (Edward Koolakian) was recruited into the business in the 1920s at age 13; his older brother was a student at SU and allowed to stay in school… My dad became a bench tailor specializing in custom clothing; he retired in the late 1960s when custom business slowed down. I joined the business in 1970, continuing the family tradition in our store in downtown Syracuse.” The business today is mostly MTM suits from H. Freeman (average $1400 retail up to $2,000), shirts from the Measure-Up division of Individualized ($200-$350), woven shirts from Gitman ($165-$235) and trousers from Ballin and Corbin. They also carry stretch sportcoats ($495), vests and a fabulous DB overcoat from Richard Choi and athleisure sportswear from Buki. “I think the challenge today is getting customers into the store. Our advantage is our on-site tailoring, with me as the on-site tailor. (My dad told me early on that if I wanted to join the business, I had to learn tailoring….) We don’t charge for alterations on regular price goods but I do charge for all the poorly tailored suits customers bring me that were purchased online. (It also gets very busy during wedding season, so if I run into a jam, I use a bench tailor in town.)” Edward’s not sure about a succession plan. “My wife wouldn’t let me draft my kids into the business so my son and daughter have both pursued satisfying careers in other fields. It remains to be seen if there will be a next generation, possibly my nephew.” Asked about men’s fashion, Koolakian responds thoughtfully, “As a menswear retailer, I’m no slave to fashion. Men want quality clothing with longevity.”
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KO O L A K I A N ’S SYRACUSE, NY
Onsite tailoring by the store owner is a big advantage.
Established: 1905 by George Koolakian Current owner: Ed Koolakian, third generation
S I M O N & SO N S NEEDHAM, MA Size: 4,800 sq. ft. Top brands: Jack Victor, Peerless, Ballin, Peter Millar, Tommy Bahama, Johnnie-O, 34 Heritage Store breakdown: 40% clothing, 40% sportswear, 20% furnishings/accessories
Paul Simon learned the business from his grandfather.
CURRENT STORE owner Paul Simon is candid about how he got involved in the business. “The store was founded in 1905 by my grandfather, Leo Simon. I got involved when I was 13 years old and my father, Arthur Simon, told me it was time to go to work.” Simon is grateful for the close relationship he had with his grandfather, a Russian immigrant who was a tailor in his homeland and who built a business in the States based on his work ethic, tailoring skills and outgoing personality. “I
could never have started out the way he did,” Simon confides. “His first store was across from a bank. He would get to work at 7 each morning and the bank president took notice, eventually offering him financing to buy his building. I feel so fortunate to have worked with Leo for eight years starting when I was 13. How many people get to learn from a grandparent?” Simon credits the store’s longevity to exceptional customer service that generates both loyalty and word-of-mouth referrals. “We sell great brands for
CO LU M B I A C LOT H I N G DULUTH, MN
Founded: 1905 by William Billstein Current owner: Ed Barbo Jr. Brands: Hart Schaffner Marx, Peerless, Ballin, Alan Paine, Viyella, Luchiano Visconti, Tommy Bahama, Patagonia, Kuhl Mission: To provide men with fine clothing and sportswear in a relaxed atmosphere with exceptional tailoring and service
Ed Barbo Jr. seeks out exclusivity in his mix.
FOUNDED IN 1905 by William Billstein, Columbia clothing was sold in 1936 to Davis Bradley and then again in 1953 to Ed Barbo Sr. His son Ed Barbo Jr. took over in 1974. “My goal was to get rid of the overdistributed brands and continually improve the mix with more exclusive products. The smartest move we made in 2012 was to add Lione’s Tailor Shop (the best tailors in the city); it’s a huge
a fair price, and our customers feel comfortable in our store. We take a personal interest in each person who walks through the door. We know their names, where they’re from, and for what occasion they want new clothes. We stay current with fashion and provide a variety of styles for our wide-ranging customer base. We also have one of the largest boys’ suit departments in New England, so we can dress young men (future customers!) for their Bar Mitzvahs, proms and then weddings.” What’s driving sales these days, says Simon, is sportcoats from Jack Victor and Peerless, jeans with stretch from AG and 34 Heritage, five-pocket pants, quarter zips and upscale sweatshirts from Tommy Bahama and Peter Millar. Another factor, he believes, is mall fatigue. “We’re a local hometown shop,” he maintains, “and fortunately, not everyone wants to shop at a mall.”
advantage to have expert alterations right here on the floor.” An out-of-the-box thinker, Barbo Jr. has tried various ideas over the years: an underground young men’s department in the 70s, a few spinoff stores in the 80s and 90s. Going forward, he’s concentrating on attracting more younger guys who want trim-fit clothing, performance fabrics and new brands. What he learned from his dad (who died in 2000 at age 88): “Shop trade shows for as many new lines as you can, but don’t place an order the first time you look at something. Discuss with your people, compare the fit and value with what you already carry, and then decide.” For the store’s longevity, Barbo credits his strong team, including John Mohn (custom clothing specialist), bookkeeper Karen Lakso and Tresa Olson in the tailor shop. Asked about succession, Barbo notes that “few independent merchants ever get independently wealthy so to own a specialty store, you need a real passion for the business. Neither of my two lovely daughters (and neither husband) is interested in running a store so what happens down the road remains to be seen.”
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100+ R .W. R E E D CO M PA N Y ( “ R E E D ’S” ) TUPELO, MS
Founded: 1905 by R.W. Reed, Sr. Current owners: Jack Reed Jr., Camille Reed Sloan, Catherine Reed Mize and Scott Reed. Historic Downtown Tupelo: 25,000 sq. ft. Mall at Barnes Crossing: 10,000 sq. ft. Historic Downtown Starkville, MS: 7,000 sq. ft. Core Cycle + Outdoor, Tupelo, MS: 4,000 sq. ft. Top menswear brands: Hart Schaffner Marx, Patagonia, The North Face, Cole Haan, On footwear
Back in the day…
“I WORKED in the store as a boy but formally entered the business in 1980 after practicing law for several years,” says Jack Jr. “I became store president in 1987 and now serve as chairman as well. Our mission statement: ‘We deliver confidence, pride, and joy.’” Longevity secrets: • Treating our staff as No. 1 (and they make our guests feel like No. 1!) • An excellent team that feels a part of our store family. • A fully engaged family through the years with terrific leadership from our grandfather, father and uncle. • The financial resources to secure the brands and merchandise we need. • Strong community involvement and leadership by example. • A reputation for treating our vendors with courtesy and respect as true partners in our mutual success.
Jack Reed Jr. entered the business after practicing law.
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The fabulous Stringham boys: BJ, Bri, Bart and Brandon.
UWM ( FO R M E R LY U TA H WO O L E N M I L L S ) S A L T L A K E C I T Y, U T
Founded: 1905 by the Lloyd family as a woolen mill Current owners: BJ and Brandon Stringham Size: 4,800 square feet Top brands: Givocci, Tom Nox, Eton, Richards Street, other exclusive UWM labels Mission statement: “It’s not about the clothing; it’s about empowering the people who wear it. We sell on value, not price.”
BJ STRINGHAM has never forgotten a lesson he learned from his grandfather: “If we can’t pay for it, we don’t buy it!” This mantra has kept the store in good standing with vendors, allowing strong partnerships that have served both sides well for more than a century. More recently, however, the store is focused on building its own brands. BJ shares some history: “We changed our name from Utah Woolen Mills to UWM Men’s Shop last year in an effort to better reflect who we are: a modern upscale apparel store that sells the world’s finest clothing, specializing in brands that are not widely distributed. It started out as woolen mill; in the early 1920s, my great-great grandfather and his son bought into it, becoming leaders of the company. My grandfather Briant
Stringham bought the majority of the stock and became CEO in the late 1970s; the store has been in my family ever since.” BJ explains how his father Bart was instrumental in changing the model. “He took our mix to the luxury level. When one of our competitors closed, a customer suggested we start selling Oxxford suits; our top brand had been Hickey Freeman. So my dad took that leap of faith, learning that quality, combined with exceptional service, can sell clothing without sales. So we now offer the highest quality products serviced by a master tailor. We don’t ever discount, which is very unusual in today’s business environment. My brother Brandon and I run the shop with a focus on creating the best experience a man can have in a clothing store. And we’re
having fun doing it!” Known for creating lasting relationships that transcend clothing, the team at UWM is as proud of these friendships as of fulfilling their customers’ wardrobe needs. “There are no shortcuts to longevity,” BJ insists. “You just go to work every day and try to figure out what your customer needs! But we’re doing it in an exciting way, nurturing new brands that are exclusive to us, curating assortments, training young enthusiastic sellers on how to give exceptional service. We also just bought a building in order to try something entirely new: We’ll be selling an opening price clothing brand but with our taste level, selection and service. We have so many fresh ideas: I’m now describing our store as a 115-year-old start-up.”
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Rob, Jim and Zach maintain that selling online has boosted business!
F L C RO O KS, CL ARION, PA
Founded: 1905 by Frank Lockland Crooks Current owners: Jim and Lydia Crooks Mission: To exceed customer expectations in product knowledge, fit and service Key brands: Hart Schaffner Marx, Peerless, Maxman, Flynt, 34 Heritage, Tommy Bahama, Raffi, Mizzen & Main, We Norwegians, Pendleton, The North Face, Kuhl, Save the Duck, Patagonia
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JIM CROOKS IS a believer in specialty stores. “My grandfather started this business and I still believe in it, despite what’s going on with online shopping. I guess I’m a denial person like my grandfather: he started out in the horse and buggy business with 4-5 livery stables, certain that cars fueled by gasoline would never make it! I believe in local independently-owned stores. You can get rid of the middle man but not the function that the middle man provides: genuine connections with the community.” The store was actually founded by Jim’s grandfather’s older brother. “My grandfather took over in 1929 and ran it throughout the depression doing whatever he could to earn/ save money. He cut hair, he pulled teeth (50 cents per tooth), he kept all the lights off until someone walked through the door. When my dad returned from the war, he was shocked to find the store devoid of inventory. He went to Philadelphia to meet with a key clothing brand; when they wouldn’t sell to him, he sat on the stoop for two days until they took his order. The same with Woolrich: He had 30 people on a waiting list to buy product. The store was
empty: He had to fill it. “We’re a rural store so while we sell suits to attorneys, most of our tailored clothing business is for weddings and occasions. We sell lots of sportswear, especially outdoors brands. Our major competitor, Weins (a great, old-fashioned moderate department store, 107 years old!) is having a big going-out-of-business sale which is impacting us now. It’s a shame to see it close, but the owner no longer has the fire.…” Interestingly, FL Crooks was one of the first stores to start selling online—in 1989! “These days,” says Jim, “it’s increasingly tough to compete with not just Amazon but our own brands selling direct. They demand high minimums yet they promote online the same styles they send us. I’ve been writing to them, begging for them to just give us a window—a month of regular-price selling before they promote. But I’ve had to drop several great brands because I can no longer compete.…” Jim’s best advice to specialty retailers: Always appreciate and encourage your team. “We have a great staff and I tell them not to worry about chasing numbers, just be the best you can be every day.”
Established: 1908 by Norton and Barringer; the Ditto family took half ownership in 1946, brothers Lanson and Ben owned it for 40+ years.
N O RTO N D I T TO, HOUSTON, TX
Current owner: Dick Hite is principal owner; he joined in 1969 after a call from his Uncle Ben who needed some help. Next Generation: Dick’s son Richard Jr. is currently involved with all things digital. Size: 6,000 sq. ft. in downtown, 3,000 in Woodlands Top brands: Oxxford Clothes, Ravazzolo, Canali, Hickey Freeman, Eton, Peter Millar Mission: To consistently deliver top quality menswear and exceptional service
Owner Dick Hite most enjoys establishing friendships with new customers.
FOR NORTON DITTO OWNER Dick Hite, the men’s retail business is a wonderful way to sustain and intensify the many friendships he’s cultivated over the years. “I love meeting new clients and developing friendships,” he confides. “And being involved in the city by serving on charitable and community boards. I’m always hoping to make a difference.” In fact, Hite attributes the store’s longevity to his and his team’s relationships with loyal customers. “Offering quality products and exceptional service is a given, but it’s much more about the relationships….” Fortunately in business, relationships are often nurtured on the golf course, and golf just happens to be Hite’s passion, second only to his family: beautiful wife Ginger and their five children. A competitive golfer, Hite is frustrated that his 5 handicap is the highest it’s been since age 16. What’s driving sales now? “Houston is a fairly dressy city so we’re still selling suits;
sportcoats sold well across the board. Also Eton shirts, Peter Millar Collection, Alberto golf pants (for fall, we sold 150 at $340), St. Croix travel blazers, cashmere sweaters at all pricepoints, Marcoliani “no show” socks (displayed at the checkout counter, we sold 225 pairs at $20 in just December!) and Tumi quilted outerwear.” For Norton Ditto’s 110th anniversary two years ago, Hite organized a reunion party for every past employee he could track down. He rented the building that once housed their first store (now a bar) and honored more than 135 people, the oldest of whom started working at Norton Ditto in 1956. “Guests included fellow Houston retailer Bill Walker (who had worked at ND for 14 years), the CEO of a major Houston corporation (who had worked at ND during high school and college), lawyers, teachers, and entrepreneurs who had all worked at the store. It was a wonderful celebration of the people who made it happen!”
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T H E B I G STO R E TIFTON,GA
M I TC H E L L’S CAMPBELLSVILLE, KY
Founded: 1910 by Lynn Mitchell and Daniel Hatcher Current owner: Laura Mitchell, president Size: 1,000 sq. ft. Key brands: Southern Tide, Eisenberg, Harmony Clothes, F/X Fusion sportswear Phil and Susan Perlis reinvent the store each season.
DESPITE A TRAGEDY in 1917 involving the murder of co-founder Daniel Hatcher, the Mitchell-Hatcher family strived to keep the doors of Mitchell’s open. Laura Mitchell’s grandmother, Mattie Mitchell, stepped in and did alterations as well as bookkeeping, while her grandfather sold clothes. After World War 11, they came back to Kentucky and took the reins in 1946. Mitchell’s father Billy and his brother Lynwood ran the business until 1990, then Laura Mitchell took over. Fortunately, the store’s old-world charm has withstood the winds of change, maintaining the same building since 1920, and the same fabulous store manager, Billy Joe Douglas, for more than 25 years! Mitchell explains that adding three womenswear lines in 2010 was a turning point; “What can I say? Women love to shop!” The establishment is also a compelling study in giving back to the community. Notes Mitchell, “Our whole shop is made up of folks who truly care: We’re a collection point for luggage for foster kids, for blankets and clothing for the less fortunate. We work diligently with area churches in drug recovery programs. Big chain stores can’t do these things at the same level of personal involvement.”
Old world values still prevail.
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Founded: 1910 by Ike Perlis, a Russian Jewish immigrant, and his son Isadore Current owners: 4th generation Phil and Susan Perlis Sells: men’s, women’s, kids’ apparel and footwear Size: 13,000 sq. ft. Top menswear brands: Peter Millar, Ballin, Johnnie-O, all Peerless brands, Kuhl, their own private label
Mission statement: “To continue serving our community guided by our family’s old-fashion business and personal values.” Longevity secrets: “It’s a combination of luck, love and fortitude. We try to focus on our greatest assets: our relationships with our customers, vendors, family, employees (who are an extension of family), and our credit.” Love most about the business: “Paying personal and sincere attention to each of our customers to make them feel great about themselves and come back for more. Keeping old friends and making new ones along the way.” What you learned from your parents Marvin and Lynette (who worked in the store for 50 years)? “That our strength is in our values, beliefs and work ethic. That we need to work hard and be kind.” What’s driving sales this season? “Our growth has been in men’s sportswear and tailored clothing.” What’s needed for business to improve? “That’s the toughest question in the world. First, we must reinvent ourselves every season. Second, we need for our partners, the manufacturers, not to be in competition with us, but to be working with us toward a common goal. Finally, for the good and welfare of all: The consumer, state and local leaders must understand that for every dollar spent via internet shopping, dollars to the local and state economies are lost forever.”
Founder Joe Davidson believed in fostering relationships.
DAV I DSO N S R O A N O K E , VA
Founded: 1910 by Joe Davidson Current owner: Larry Davidson (two stores) Downtown store: 3,000 square feet Merchandise mix: 1/3 business attire, 1/3 sportswear, 1/3 custom and special order
IN 1900, an 18-year-old Joe Davidson left the bleak prospects of his native Lithuania in search of a more promising life. He came through Ellis Island, started out working at a factory in Providence but wound up in Roanoke, Va., where he took a job at a local clothing store and married the owner’s daughter. With encouragement from his new wife Daisy, Joe soon decided to open his own shop, a men’s clothing business that has evolved into one of America’s finest specialty stores, now run by third generation Larry Davidson. According to Larry, the longevity of the store can be attributed to several factors, the first of which is “dumb luck” e.g. no competition within two-hours of the store. “With custom and made-to-measure driving sales, clients have to come to us for fittings. But business today is erratic: There’s no rhyme or reason, for example, why we had a miserable September and a wonderful November when we didn’t do anything differently. Or maybe I’m just not smart enough to figure it out….” But don’t let his humility fool you: Several wise moves have contributed to
the store’s success, like adding a leased men’s grooming salon at the store’s front landing and mezzanine. “We have female operators giving haircuts, facials, manicures, pedicures in front of big screen TVs; this keeps traffic flowing and customers coming back!” Another factor: Larry’s sincere commitment to support the community via personal involvement in numerous nonprofits, a sense of community service and civil responsibility that came from his dad. “Our home is a loft above the store where my wife and I host meetings and events for various organizations. It’s all part of a philosophy to give back, while enjoying the personal relationships we’ve established in business, and to keep life stimulating.…” When he’s not in the store, Larry stays in shape by running and bicycling. While none of his three sons has chosen to follow him into the business, he expresses little concern about succession. “As long as I’m enjoying what I do, I hope to keep doing it,” he explains, adding that selling to a talented employee could be a viable option down the road.
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100+ RA F F K I N DS AMARILLO, TX
Established: 1910 by Eli Raffkind Size: 6,000 square feet: 2/3 men’s, 1/3 women’s Top menswear brands: Peter Millar, Mizzen & Main, Samuelsohn, Brax, Eton, Trask
Warren Cohn, Alexa Cohn and long-time associate Trevor D’Costa
A M I T Y V I L L E M E N ’S S H O P AMIT YVILLE, NY Founded: 1911 by Louis Cohn, who moved from Poland to London and apprenticed on Savile Row. He then came to the States at age 17 and became a custom tailor. Current owner: Warren Cohn Size: 2,500 sq. ft.
Dave, Chad and Adrea: from trusted employees to store owners.
THE STORE WAS ESTABLISHED in 1910 by Eli Raffkind, passed on to his son Morris and then to his son George. Just three years ago, the store was purchased by three long-time employees: Dave Alee had worked there 40 years, Adrea Pearson 26 years, and Chad Westenburg, 23 years. Explains Chad, “We didn’t implement any major changes upon buying it: We didn’t have to; nothing was broken. George had entrusted us with running the business for the previous 10 years…” Chad describes men’s business as healthy, driven by today’s modern uniform: five-pocket pants, sportcoats and dress sneakers. “We sell trim-fit pants with stretch even to big guys. There’s now stretch in practically all our bottoms and shirts. But I do see some change coming: a single forward pleat coming back; more pants with cuffs. Last year was tough but business has been good this year: steady increases each month. Today’s business is 50 percent sportswear, 30 percent tailored (H. Freeman, Samuelsohn, Oxxford, Byron) and 20 percent furnishings. We’re not the most fashion-forward store: trim-fit is still new here, as are medium blue suits. And while MTM is a factor, it hasn’t grown proportionately since we do so much trim-fit clothing off-the-rack. “What I’ve learned in 23 years here: We’re not in the clothing business, we’re in the relationship business. We’re genuine friends with our customers; we’re always hosting events and making this a fun place to shop!”
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Key brands: Paul Betenly, Peerless, Ibiza, Alberto, 34 Heritage and Raffi.
WARREN COHN joined the family business part time doing hems at age 13; he continued full time after graduating college in 1978. His mantra for competing in an oversaturated market: “Satisfy the customer’s every need, then offer to do more.” He shares a cute story: “Once on the island of Virgin Gorda, I noticed a gentleman wearing a familiar swimsuit style. I noticed he’d forgotten to take off one of the tags and pointed this out to my friend. The guy overheard me, then turned around and glared. He turned out to be a customer who purchased the swimsuit from me a week prior. I bought him a beer, and we both had a good laugh.” Cohn is a firm proponent of the jeans-and-sneaker ensemble that has become today’s uniform. “Premium denim continues to be the main driver for us, mated with an untucked shirt and a pair of fashion sneakers or wing-tip shoes. Once someone is outfitted in the comfort of a stretch jean, untucked shirt, and shoes with sneaker-like comfort, then we suggest a sportcoat as the finishing touch. “I think survival for independents is a three-step process: 1) Convince customers that it pays to deal with experts who can give them correct wardrobe advice, which doesn’t happen online; 2) Emphasize the price/value relationship of everything you sell; and 3) Do everything in your power to get customer referrals.” Cohn’s daughter Alexa, who interned at Randa after college, recently became the fourth generation to join Amityville Men’s Shop, boding well indeed for their future.
Outdoor brands plus a strong focus on tailored clothing.
M A RG O L I S M E N ’S STO R E JACKSONVILLE, NC
Founded: 1912 by Max Margolis Current owner: Lloyd Koonce Size: 4,500 sq. ft. Key brands: Hart Schaffner Marx, Arrow, Southern Tide, SAS, Florsheim, Rockport, Trask, Sperry Specialty: A broad size range (sizes 30-80), formalwear rental and sales
MAX MARGOLIS FOUNDED his downtown menswear store in 1912, soon expanding to a general merchandise store specializing in clothing. Current owner Lloyd Koonce bought the store from Max’s son Leon in 1986. In 1994, he relocated to its present location in Westwood Village. Clearly, Koonce was destined for retailing, having spent many years as a manager at Belk’s and also at two different specialty stores. His focus now is tailored clothing; he keeps an inventory of 500+ suits ($275 retail and up) and prides himself on “fitting anyone who’s a size 80 or under….” The store does all its own tailoring/alterations and provides finished garments in 24-36 hours. “My customer wants it yesterday,” he confirms. Driving sales now is formalwear, dress clothing and footwear. Koonce shares another success secret: He buys direct from European factories and carries a few top quality exclusive brands (clothing, hats) that sell very well for him. “The challenge today is all the online competition but you can’t really buy a suit online. I believe customers are learning that.” Koonce’s daughter Amanda works with him in the store and is “next in line for the throne,” followed, perhaps, by her two college-age sons, Matthew and Patrick. “They’ve both worked in the store and have picked up a lot of knowledge,” notes Koonce.
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Susan and Howard Vogt report double-digit gains in men’s.
RO D ES LOUISVILLE KY
Founded: 1914 by John Rodes Current owners: Howard and Susan Vogt Size: 11,000 square feet, equal parts men’s and women’s
Menswear breakdown: tailored clothing 40%, sportswear 30%, furnishings 30%
Top men’s brands: Zegna, Isaia, Canali, Eton, Samuelsohn, Peter Millar
Success secret: The Kentucky Derby (“It’s like a second Christmas! We work from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. for a month prior…”)
RODES CO-OWNER Howard Vogt remembers the advice he received from Rodes’ former owner (his father-in-law) Lawrence Smith. “At the end of his life, I was trying to get him to share some tricks of the trade. After all, I’m a CPA, a numbers guy, and this business is more nuanced than numbers. After three hours of talking about staffing, inventory, partnerships, etc., I asked him to sum it up in just one sentence. His response: ‘Just don’t f-ck it up!’ So those are the words I try to live by!” Relating that Rodes once had seven stores, 100 employees and a huge uniform business with Continental, Southwest, TWA, DHL (which they sold to Cintas in 2000), Vogt admits how much harder business is today than it used to be. “Store owners work long hours for not a lot of money. Most do everything themselves and then run out of steam. And with men dressing more casually than they used to, we need to sell lots more $175 denim jeans than we did $4,000 suits….”
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Mission: To offer a world-class experience by presenting the finest brands in a relaxed and friendly atmosphere
That said, Rodes’ menswear business is good—up double digits, with 40 percent still in tailored clothing. “We’ve been working hard at it these past three years. Women’s is a different story: A few of our top sellers recently retired. But we’re in Louisville, with no A doors of major department stores, so we do OK.” Vogt recalls how they first got into the women’s business: “Jacobson’s was going out of business so there were all these talented sellers suddenly available. I spoke to Lawrence who wasn’t interested, saying ‘We’ve got enough problems with men’s, forget women’s.’ But we hired these sellers, added women’s and it’s been a real plus, now contributing as much volume as menswear.” As for a succession plan down the road, Howard and Susan’s 20-something son Howie has an intense passion for outdoor education. “He truly loves the outdoors,” says Howard. “I don’t think we’ll ever get him to work in the confines of a store.”
KA N N O N ’S C LOT H I N G RALEIGH, NC
Founded: 1916 by Isaac George Kannon Size: 5,000 sq. ft. Key brands: Samuelsohn, Canali, Jack Victor, St Croix, Eton, Meyer, Ballin, Barbour, Peter Millar, Southern Tide, Gitman, 34 Heritage, Gravati, Schneiders, Johnnie-O, Brax Success secrets: An exceptional sales team, in-house alteration experts, lifelong friendships
KANNON’S FOUNDER Isaac George Kannon, an immigrant from Lebanon, started his business by peddling quality goods from a backpack; he later upgraded to a horse and buggy and in 1916, after he was able to send for his wife and kids, he opened a store in Wendell, N.C. A century later, the horse and buggy are gone but the work ethic has been passed on. The sprawling menswear store, now in Raleigh, is led by third generation George Knuckley and Mary Kathryn Phillips; they also run separate men’s and ladies’ stores in Raleigh’s nearby Cameron Village. “The consumer is shopping differently, especially millennials,” notes Knuckley. “But we’ve added more contemporary lines and we’re buying our regular lines with a younger spin so we’re capturing young customers. That said, we still sell lots of suits and sportcoats (both tailored and soft): I’d say tailored clothing is 55 percent of our men’s business, 25-30 percent of which is custom. And we of course showcase our clothing with all the right accessories, sportswear and furnishings.” Mitch Sugar (one of Kannon’s star sellers) expresses some concern about the increasing number of vendors selling direct. “It’s a problem. We’re looking for more brands that want a symbiotic rather than a parasitic relationship. We’d love more boutique lines, and even private labels, which are admittedly hard to acquire without huge orders.” Yet Kannon’s business is flourishing, and the team is optimistic about the next 100 years, pointing out exceptional customer loyalty from repeat customers of various generations. “We’re fortunate to be so close to downtown Raleigh where a lot of young people now live. We’ve got a sizable customer base that’s 40-and-under, but of course we want more. “Our focus remains exceptional service and customer satisfaction,” he concludes. “I think the more business that’s done online, the more people appreciate a personal relationship with their local clothier.” Knuckley also shares his pride that his niece, a recent graduate in textiles from N.C. State, is the first of Gen 4 to join the business. (Her great-grandpa Isaac is surely smiling from heaven!)
Dick Wright, George Knuckley, Mary Kathryn Phillips, and Mitch Sugar are selling lots of suits!
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100+ P E N N E R ’S M E N ’S STO R E SAN ANTONIO, TX
Founded: 1916 by Morris Penner, a Jewish immigrant from Poland, who launched a second-hand clothing and shoe store. After 14 years, his sons Ben, Max and Sam joined him and established a first-rate men’s clothing store. In 1970, Sam’s identical twin sons Mickey and Mark joined the business, bringing a new creative perspective to the store. Current owners: Matt (46), Mitchell (34) and Max Penner (30).
Mark Penner (seated) with (left to right) Max, Mitchell, and Matt provide free alterations on all items purchased in the store.
They followed an unwritten rule in the Penner family: After graduating from college, you cannot come into the family business unless you’ve worked elsewhere for at least two years. “Our grandfather established this rule so we could learn what other stores do right, and wrong.”
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ALL THREE OF US grew up in this business watching our fathers work six days a week and attend buying shows across the country. We’d work summers and holidays, helping wherever we could. After Mickey passed away in 2002, we knew we’d come into the business to help sustain the family legacy. We feel fortunate that we own our building and land. The storefront has beautiful display windows, 42 parking spaces, and over 9000 square feet of retail space. Penner’s is located in the center of a thriving downtown. The majority of our business is local traffic within a 50-mile radius but we also enjoy tourist and convention visitors. Longevity secrets: After 103 years in business, we’ve stuck to our old-fashioned roots: providing first class service, stocking a large selection of quality merchandise, and providing free alterations on ALL items purchased in the store. We’re fortunate to have an experienced team. Each week we go over all new arrivals and educate our staff on how each brand fits (we have our sales associates try everything on to truly understand differences in fit). With more product knowledge, our sellers have a better chance of getting the right size and style for each customer. Competitive advantages: 1) Free tailoring - We have seven full time tailors who work on suits, coats, shirts, and pants. Any item purchased from our store is custom fit our customer’s body at no additional charge. 2) Specialty niche items - Both online and in-store we specialize in Guayabera shirts, all custom made for our store in Merida, Yucatan and Panama with our exclusive fabrics, design and fit. 3) Growing web sales - Our internet business has been growing. Our website acts as our front door and also generates a revenue stream. 4) Strong inventory - We carry all sizes in our store from 36-60 Reg. including Portly, X-Longs, X-Shorts, Longs, Regs and Shorts. 5) Reorder! We believe a key to success is filling in. Every Monday we fill in our basics and have a strong yet controlled inventory in our store at all times. Driving sales now: New brands. Lines that we’ve recently added include Brax, David Donahue, 34 Heritage, Hickey Freeman Sports Shirts, TailorRed, & ON performance shoes. All these brands have been fantastic additions and are starting to take up more real estate on our floor. Current Challenges: The toughest challenge is getting millennials to appreciate service and quality rather than shopping online. Another challenge is replacing our tailors as they retire. They are our heartbeat and provide our main competitive advantage.
H U B E RT W H I T E MINNEAPOLIS, MN
Founded: 1916 Size: 6000 sq. ft. selling space Merchandise Mix: Tailored clothing: 50 percent sportswear: 30 percent, furnishings: 20 percent Key brands: Zegna, Samuelsohn, Canali, Eton, Brioni
Bob White is described as “thoughtful, numbers-driven, competitive and cautious.”
HUBERT WHITE’S current owner Bob White, grandson of founder Hubert “Bert” White, started out doing stock work at the store during breaks in high school. Following his dream, he graduated from the University of Denver law school; he was interviewing for legal jobs when his father suggested that if he were ever to join the family business, this was the time. Forty-five years later, White has never regretted his decision. The store is known for quality merchandise and exceptional service. Asked what it takes to survive more than a century, White responds “a huge amount of luck!”, explaining that you need to be in the right city at the right time with the right team. “We all have nice merchandise,” he acknowledges. “You need the right relationships, and realistic expectations. You need to understand your community. You need a staff that respects one another. Most importantly, you need to choose the right team leader. I’ve been fortunate to have Brad Sherman working closely with me for more than 35 years…” Says Sherman, “It’s quite a partnership: We’re the same person times two. You could best describe us as survivors and strivers.”
More specifically, he describes White as “numbers-driven, loves being the devil’s advocate, thoughtful, sees the road ahead better than most, competitive, and somewhat cautious: He doesn’t want to be first in the water.” As for a self-description, Sherman admits he can be overly enthusiastic, but he loves big ideas and the power of new. Asked what he’s learned from his years in the business, Bob White doesn’t hesitate. “The menswear business is a ton of fun. The luxe part of the industry reflects a rich and fulfilling lifestyle, and we are fortunate to taste a bit of it. There are lots of talented, hard-working, creative individuals in our industry who are in the game because of their “passion for fashion.” For stores like ours, New York and Milan are the centers of the menswear universe. These cities fuel the passion. Finally, in menswear, there’s always a ‘new kid’ on the block. Sometimes these emerging brands are game changers, but most often they start off like a rocket ship but rarely have the fuel to finish the trip.…” Asked what he’d do differently if he could start over, White is thoughtful. “I wish I’d been more collaborative and a better team builder.”
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L E U T H O L DS ALBERT LEA, MN
S M I T H & JA M ES I N C. GREER, SC
Current owners: Bill and Paula Hertling, who started working for Leutholds in 1986 and bought the Albert Lea store in 1995
Founded: 1916 as Smith & Vaughn. In 1918 a Dr. Smith bought out Mr. Vaughn’s shares and the store changed its name to Smith & James.
Size: 5,000 sq. ft.
Current owner: Bernard Price and Brandon Price.
Top menswear brands: Kuhl, Peerless, San Malone, F/X Fusion, Tuxedo Central
Size: Original store in Historic Downtown Greer—3,000 sq. ft.; Shops at Greenridge—4,300 sq. ft. Top brands: Peter Millar, Ballin, 34 Heritage, an exclusive “Tailgatin” collegiate line, Trask footwear
open to change. He saw the dress-down WHEN THE STARS are aligned, inFriday trend coming and adapted: We still dependent specialty merchants with no sell a lot of suits, but not in the quantity succession plans might turn over the we used to....” business to a dedicated employee. When As for gripes, Brandon admits he hates Mr. Paul Smith, Sr. (second generation having to fight with the internet. “But it’s Smith) hired Bernard Price in 1961, Smith not going away so we just have to keep was like a second father, teaching Bernard elevating our customer experience. Also, everything about the menswear business we need to build relationships with the and how to treat customers. In 1978, when right vendors who want to partner with us Smith retired, he sold Bernard 25 percent of rather than compete against us. It would the business. In 1991 Bernard became sole also be nice if these vendors who do sell owner, buying out Smith’s widow and son. online would create small packages not Brandon came to work at Smith & James available online just for the specialty stores.” after graduating with a retailing degree When they’re not selling clothes, both from the University of South Carolina. “I Brandon and Bernard love restoring anwent off to college not planning to go into tique cars. “I’m currently restoring a 1960 the family business. My father would give Chevrolet Impala two-door sport coupe. me $100 on a Sunday expecting it to last This business doesn’t allow much time for two or three weeks; I’d be out of money by hobbies, but cars are the best therapy for Wednesday. LOL! I was told I had to get a me to get my mind off the store.” job and decided to work at Lourie’s men’s store in Columbia, S.C. Working for someone other than family was the best thing I ever did; I decided to change my major to retailing and join Smith & James after graduating.” Brandon admits it takes a lot of hard work to keep Smith & James growing in today’s competitive climate. That said, they’ve opened a second location in Greenville, for which he credits his strong team. “My father and I couldn’t have done it without our devoted team.” His longevity secrets: “My father has always kept young people Bernard and Brandon Price around the store; we have to be stress the importance of change.
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Founded: A cooperation of stores in 1878, the Albert Lea location in 1917
Mission statement: “Create a warmer, friendlier, shopping environment by providing, quality unique merchandise, and the most compelling shopping experience possible.”
Bill and Paula Hertling say formalwear drives other business.
Driving sales this season: Formalwear is huge part of our business, a constant cash flow. Those who you help with formalwear come back for other items. What’s needed for improved business: More retail in our mall. However, a new medical center is being added, set to open summer 2020, which should bring more foot traffic to the mall. Longevity secrets: “Quality merchandise and a knowledgeable sales staff build business confidence that endures through the years.” Jacob Leuthold Jr. 1878 (and true today!) Love most: The relationships and friendships we build with customers and sales reps Other interests: Enjoying time with family and friends; fishing in the summer
M . D U M AS & SO N S K I N G ST R E E T CHARLESTON, SC
Founded: 1917 Current owner: Gary Flynn, working with David Dumas Key brands: Kiton, Boglioli, Eleventy, Tommy Bahama, Barbour, Ferragamo, Tod’s, New Balance Success secret: A great team that works hard in the store, in the market and on the road!
IN HIS BEAUTIFUL store on King Street, Gary Flynn shows off a framed collage of vintage “patches” from numerous local Charleston businesses for whom the store once made uniforms. “I think what’s most special about M. Dumas is our history, and our ability to evolve/change/morph with the times,” he says. The store started out 103 years ago as a discounter, also selling uniforms to naval officers and local businesses, a way to remain relevant during tough times. “After WW11, returning soldiers wanted this brand call Levi’s so we brought in Levi’s, cowboy boots, hats, hunting and fishing gear. Then we moved into moderate sportswear: workwear and outdoor brands like Columbia; stack it high, watch it fly! The store was packed with merchandise, selling tons of units. David’s dad bought the building in 1974 and the third generation, (David and his brother, who he lost about 10 years ago) jumped into a fairly robust business, which grew quickly from $2.5 million to $10 million.” According to Flynn, the store has always been a pioneer with new brands. “When we brought in Tommy Bahama, these were the first shirts to retail over $100. Although we’re in the South and not focused on outerwear, Barbour is huge for us. I believe we’re their largest independent specialty store account. We want to hold on to our heritage while moving forward.” Flynn explains that early on, Dumas sold mostly sportswear. “What I brought to the store when I got here after 27 years at Nordstrom was a new focus on luxury tailored, brands like LBM, Kiton, Boglioli, Eleventy, Lardini. A few years back, a big sale for us
was $4,000; now it can be $7,000 or $12,000. Even when we’re selling the same number of units, we’re generating much more volume.” Flynn also talks about how Charleston is growing. “We get 45 new people a day moving to the Charleston area: They come to visit and fall in love with it. In addition, 50 percent of our business is with tourists.” He credits his team, especially Price, Clark and George, for the impressive growth in recent seasons. “They’re professionals who take the business seriously, not just in the store but also on the road. They’ve held catered invitation-only events in DC and Greenville. In DC, they set up shop in a restaurant for five hours of measuring guys for custom suits. In Greenville, they rented space for three days during the holidays; Clark had made advance appointments with customers to do all their holiday shopping with us! “We have a second store in Mt. Pleasant— Southern Tide by M.Dumas & Sons—that’s 80 percent Southern Tide, 20 percent other brands. We’re working harder than ever doing things we never did before. For example, when a neighboring shoe store closed, we created a beautiful shoe shop in the front of our store with all the brands our customers had been asking for (Ferragamo, Tod’s, New Balance) as well as a terrific team of shoe experts. “Another focus is our website. We have out-of-town customers who’ve been shopping with us for years via phone or email; we want to make their experience even simpler. We have to think like our customer thinks if we want to be here for another 100 years. We’re focused on evolving the business with, and ahead of, what our customers desire.”
Gary Flynn carries on the tradition of pioneering new brands.
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T H E Q UA L I T Y S H O PS N O R F O L K , VA & V I R G I N I A B E A C H , VA
Reid and Steve Rapoport attribute success to their talented sellers.
Founded: 1917 by Morris H. Rapoport Current owners: third generation brothers Reid and Steve Rapoport Top brands: Coppley, Stenstroms, Ballin, Gran Sasso, Johnnie-O Size: 1,724 sq. ft. each location Mission: Personalized service in a relaxed, friendly, unpretentious atmosphere; consistent quality, emphasis on proper fit
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LIKE THE CHILDREN of many legacy store owners, Reid & Steve Rapoport always worked in the family business during summers and holiday seasons, both joining full time upon college graduation. They attribute the stores’ longevity to talented longtime sellers who keep in touch with their customers, and also to tasteful merchandise, strong presentations and effective marketing on social media and select print. Driving sales this season: casual sportswear, soft sportcoats, sweaters and outerwear. What Reid and Steve love most about the business: the relationships with customers and the quality merchandise. What they like least: the long hours. What they’ve learned: patience. And what they need for better business: more foot traffic! Their interests beyond work include family, golf, boating, exercise and beach time. And while there’s currently no interest from the fourth generation in joining the business, hope springs eternal.
PU R I TA N CA P E CO D H YA N N I S A N D C H A T H A M , M A
Established: 1919 by Abraham Penn Size: 30,000 sq. ft. total (four stores, including Vineyard Vines by Puritan, est. 2005) Breakdown: 45% mens, 42% womens, 13% outdoor Menswear mix: 60% sportswear, 20% clothing, 8% footwear, 7% accessories, 5% denim Key menswear brands: Polo, Vineyard Vines, Tommy Bahama, Robert Graham, Chatham Chinos Mission statement: Earn the relationship Employees: 50 Events: 10-12 in store annually Rick, Ian, Jim, Shep and Bob celebrate Puritan’s strong partnership with Vineyard Vines.
Jim and Rick celebrate 100 years!
RICK AND JIM PENN are first cousins, business partners, close friends and grandsons of Puritan founder Abe Penn, both joining the family business in the early 1980s. Jim handles merchandising and marketing; Rick does finance and operations. And as they like to say, they both take out the garbage! Their business today comprises four stores (including a Vineyard Vines shop), a luxury day spa (added in ’08), and two fabulous restaurants: The Naked Oyster (2010) and Rendezvous Café (2012). “In one place, our customers can dine, dress and decompress,” quips Jim. “We compete on the intangibles,” says Rick, referring to their exceptional customer service and genuine multi-generational friendships nurtured over the past century. A few of their recent smart moves: launching Chatham Chinos, a private label heritage brand, in 2012, a nod to their grandfather who used to outfit the Chatham Coast Guard. And building a ski rental business to more evenly balance summer and winter sales. “Forty percent of homes on the Cape are second homes so we’re kind of a resort store,” says Rick. “But December is still our biggest month, thanks to our strong gift and ski businesses.” Other smart moves: investing in frequent renovations, relying on seasoned merchants (like Bob Harrison who’s been with the store longer than Rick and Jim!), adding women’s apparel and gifts, staying on top of emerging brands, partnering with key vendors and treating their employees like family (many have worked there for decades). Of course, the team is also very involved in community and hosts frequent events with proceeds to local charities.
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100+ BAU M A N S LITTLE ROCK, AR
Size: Main store on Cantrell Ave. 7,000+ sq. ft., Capitol Hotel store is 800 sq. ft. Founded: 1919 by Simon Bauman Current owner: Baumans recently partnered with Walker Brothers (stores in Fayetteville and Rogers, AR) in July 2019. Thomas Cole (son of John Cole) is the general manager of Walker Brothers and Baumans, Wayne (“the legend”) Ratcliff is the lead in the Little Rock stores. Top menswear brands: Zegna, Oxxford, Canali, Eton, Samuelsohn, Peter Millar Mission statement: Serve well. Longevity secrets: “The team at Baumans is exceptional at relationships, and doing the right thing for our clients each and every time without fail.” –John Cole
IT’S BEEN JUST a half year since Baumans teamed up with Walker Brothers and John Cole couldn’t be happier. “I’m obsessed with the mission statement ‘Serve Well.’ These two words perfectly sum up what we’re all about, and we work really hard to meet that standard every day.” (Editor’s note: Cole’s grandparents opened department stores for Walker Brothers in 1903…) Asked what he loves most and least about the business, John is candid: “I love the relationships, the challenge of each new season and getting to reinvent often. The biggest problem we have as independent specialty stores is dealing with vendors who want us to represent them in a market and then end up competing with us online. Strategically, this is not good for the vendor: if they truly wish to utilize us as a distribution point, they need to work with us on appropriate pricing and/ or product that’s not offered online. We are definitely having conversations with vendors about how to work more effectively together, and private label is becoming much more important in as many categories as we can effectively provide it.” What’s driving sales this season? “As is typically the case with specialty stores, it’s special items that are not found everywhere. In addition, made-to-measure has been exceptional.” Asked how he plans to attract younger customers with Bauman’s clothing
AFTER 101 YEARS of exceptional customer service and friendships, Metzger’s is virtually a household name in Mobile, AL. However, the store brings far more than fashion and style to this community: Leaders in community service for three generations, the Metzger family takes great pride in enriching their great city via outreach programs and other community endeavors that truly touch people’s lives.
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Thomas Cole and Wayne Ratcliff
prices in the stratosphere, Cole responds, “We’ve been blessed to have attracted some exceptional young sellers who understand the ‘new’ market. Sportswear and denim brands have become increasingly important, of course, and JBrand, AG and Faherty are among those labels performing well.” When he’s not working, John likes all types of sports, and golf when he has the time. (Admitting that he’s just “eye candy” since Thomas and Wayne do all the work, John is reluctant to send a photo of himself, giving all credit to his hard-working partners.)
As for business, Ken Metzger believes that personal contacts are essential to driving sales. “Our associates call their customers regularly about new merchandise, promotions, and special events. They routinely post on social media, each treating his job as if it were his own business, and taking great pride in this. The store advertises in local publications and participates in fashion shows out of the store. We send out mailers for seasonal trunk shows but employees also contact their customers personally to ensure turnout.” Ken strongly believes that there’s no substitute for an in-person shopping experience. “It’s heartbreaking to see the decline of face-to-face retail shopping across our country. Future generations will suffer a void in ways they’ll never know. So as online shopping cuts into store traffic, changing with the times is imperative. While our personal mission here at Metzger’s remains customer service, we’re learning how to adapt to new generations to come.”
M E TZG E R ’S MOBILE, AL
Founded: 1919 by Melvin and Leonard Metzger Current owner: Ken Metzger, third generation Size: 5,000 sq. ft. Key brands: Ballin, Frye, Peter Millar, AG, Gitman, David Donahue and MAC.
As Peerless Clothing International marks our 100th anniversary, we proudly join in celebrating the prestigious American retailers who have achieved over 100 years in business.
We honor you for your leadership, passion, commitment and dedication to the menswear industry.
DENIM
DENIM DRIVERS WHILE THE BACKBONE OF THE MEN’S DENIM BUSINESS WAS ONCE INNOVATION AND QUALITY , ITS LONGEVITY NOW DEPENDS ON NEWNESS AND RESPONSIBLE PRODUCTION METHODS.
BY MEHR SINGH
FROM STUDENTS TO CEO’S, everyone wears jeans. The uptick in the demand for jeans can be evidenced by the fact that the average man now buys four pairs per year, according to a qualitative research study published by HTF Market Intelligence in January 2019. The study also predicts the global denim market to reach $9.32 billion by 2025. Key drivers of the jeans market include an increase in disposable income, the advent of e-commerce and the casualization of the work force. The good news: everyone wears jeans. The bad news: everyone wears jeans, so everyone is making them. Not only does the overabundance of the sartorial classic in the age of fast-fashion have dire environmental implications, but denim merchants are finding it increasingly challenging to distinguish their product amidst seas of blue. Denim experts concur that four key factors can differentiate brands going forward: fashion innovation, omnichannel distribution, personalization and ‘green jeans.’
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SLIM PICKINGS While updates in color, pattern and fabric are good for business, nothing jumpstarts sales better and faster than a change in silhouette. Notes Paul Rosengard, executive vice president of True Religion, “When you can defunct a man or woman’s entire wardrobe because the width of the tie changes, or the jacket on a suit has three buttons instead of two, that’s when you can jumpstart a business, because you’ve essentially obsoleted their entire closet.” According to Rosengard, the reintroduction of high-waisted jeans was a pivotal moment for the women’s market. Womens’ denim silhouettes have ebbed and flowed over the years, with the predominant model shifting from relaxed to low-rise to high-waisted within the span of a decade. An overall challenge across all of menswear is that the dominant silhouette has remained stagnant since the ‘90s. Discussing design variations, Daniel Leppo, EVP and GMM for menswear at Bloomingdale’s, notes, “This season we made sure we had impact with cargos from numerous denim players. The response has been powerful: cargos have added another reason for the customer to buy. We’ve also spent the last few years getting customers used to skinnier styles, especially below the knee. Stretch is unbelievably important to most men and the premium denim market has done an incredible job adding it to denim without losing anything in the wash.” But according to Mark D’Angelo, VP of Sales at Liverpool Jeans, “Newness has been a grave challenge. The more estab-
lished man is not so quick to jump on overly forward trends, and many trends don’t speak to the average consumer. For example, acid wash, fuller jeans, high waisted, raw denim and classic selvedge are for the most part geared to a young consumer.” Janine Chilton-Faust, Global VP of Men’s Design at Levi Strauss & Co., believes that tapered fits will continue strong. “Tapered fits are the best-selling product around the globe. Sneakers continue to be one of the most important categories in men’s closets, and sneakers work perfectly with a tapered leg. That said, we’re really excited about the launch of our 501 ’93, an iconic straight leg, inspired from our 90’s archive. This fit is the beginning of a shift in silhouette.” The popularity of dark, non-whiskered denim, favored by young and older men alike, is expected to grow in 2020 as the sportcoat-with-jeans uniform continues strong. Selvedge denim–specifically Japanese selvedge denim–is also extending its moment. Chris Nervo, a style advisor at Garys in Newport Beach, lists Garys’ most popular washes in this sequence: washed black, clean back, medium-wash indigo and dark indigo; followed by olive, light blue, acid washes, burgundy and slatewhite. Rosengard says that denim shorts and cropped jeans are back for men as well as women, as are denim jackets that work with everything from dress pants to weekend bermudas. When it comes to pricepoints, the perceived ‘right price’ for jeans (affected by factors such as fabric quality, production methods and brand prestige) varies tremendously. Leppo mentions that their sweet spot is around MARK D’ANGELO, $200–but if they give their cusLIVERPOOL JEANS tomers good reason to buy, they can sell denim priced well above that. On the other end of the spectrum, brands carried by mass merchants such as George, Lee and Wrangler start as low as $7 and go up to $125.
Levi’s
“ACID WASH, FULLER JEANS, HIGH WAISTED, RAW DENIM AND CLASSIC SELVEDGE ARE MOSTLY GEARED TO A YOUNG CONSUMER.”
PAIGE
MR MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY 2020
SIZING IT UP The women’s market is making strides with the addition of curve and plus ranges, while most men’s brands are still grappling with inclusive sizing. The misconception here seems to be that plus size men are more likely to opt for sweatpants, a theory negated by the success of stretch jeans in large sizes in several brands. D’Angelo explains, “We brought stretch to everything we produce along with multiple inseams, and waist sizes from 28-42 including odd sizes, giving the consumer a truly accessible product.” Says Richard Binder from 34 Heritage, “Approximately five percent of our business is in large sizes. The main reason for our success in this category is the fact the we stock these sizes in our replenishment program.”
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DENIM
34 Heritage
OMNICHANNEL OPTIONS Expansion into online stores, mobile apps and box subscriptions has boosted sales for many brands, creating competition for conventional merchants. While the ideal approach to buying jeans has always been trying on various models in person, the convenience of shopping online remains a powerful draw. Notes Jon Geller, Men’s Director at PAIGE (a hot denim brand in upscale stores), “Traditionally, brick-and-mortar stores have been our main funnel for sales, but within the past few years, the growth of our e-commerce business has increased tremendously. With the surge in digital consumerism (mobile, tablet, and desktop shopping), we’re just beginning to tap the surface for online revenue.” D’Angelo points out a positive ramification of this trend. “It seems that an initial purchase online can actually drive consumers into their local boutiques or department stores to purchase more, especially in the box subscription channel, where the consumer has to wait a month for their next box. They get our jeans from the subscription box, find that they love them, and search out where they can buy more immediately. I’d say our current sales are almost equally divided between online and brick-and-mortar.” Conversely, many customers are less hesitant to make online purchases once they’ve visited a physical store and have been fitted by on-site stylists. Arkun Durmaz, 34 Heritage President, highlights the importance of brand ambassadors to inspire customers. “We understand that our presence at retail is incredibly valuable for our brand. As such, we consider our retailers our most important brand ambassadors and make sure that whatever we do online to keep the brand visible to a large audience, we do in a way that enhances the brand’s success across all channels.”
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GETTING PERSONAL Do you remember a time when Starbucks didn’t exist? New Yorkers would buy coffee that cost a mere twenty-five cents from the nearest deli and drink it out of the standard blue and white Styrofoam cup, emblazoned with Greek letters. Denim, much like a cup o’ joe, was a standardized, basic commodity. Is Starbucks coffee really better than deli coffee, or even McDonald’s coffee? Most coffee experts say no–yet there’s always a throng of people queued at every Starbucks franchise. The one thing you’ll notice is that they all order their coffee a little differently. On a subconscious level, this personalization creates the illusion of authority, of self-importance and individuality. We all want to be unique, and people will readily pay for personalization–whether it’s in their coffee or in their jeans. Levi’s, a brand almost synonymous with jeans, opened a ‘denim bar’ in its flagship Times Square store in November 2018, and other brands like Madewell promptly followed suit. These widely successful customization centers allow customers to incorporate unique elements such as contrast stitching, embroidery, and to even switch-up buttons. The global resurgence of 90’s streetwear has also taken the denim world by storm, with brands such as True Religion, MNML, Acne Studios, Gucci, Sean John and Vetements circling back to trends like red or yellow stitching, spray painted jeans, metallic coated, deconstructed and embellished jeans with more interest in the back pockets.
DL
2020 VISION: WHAT’S NEXT?
“We continue to believe in upscale cargo bottoms. We also see distressed playing a larger role going forward.” –Daniel Leppo, Bloomingdale’s “The demand for a polished, modern look with little-to-no whiskering and a slim-straight leg is expected to continue into 2020. We also believe in cleaner, non-whiskered tonal stitched denim, black and grey, joggers in knit and stretch twill, and anything with high stretch.” –Mark D’Angelo, Liverpool “Our 501 ’93 which is an iconic straight leg, inspired from our 90’s archive. This fit is the beginning of a shift in silhouette.” –Janine Chilton-Faust, Levi’s “The Federal (slim-straight) is currently our most popular fit. The Federal is for a guy who wants comfort through the hip and thigh, but is also looking for a slimmer leg opening.” –Jon Geller, PAIGE “Clean dark denim–We love the range we’re able to get with some of our core indigo fabrics. L’Homme Slim in Placid has been a customer favorite since the brand launched in 2012.” –FRAME sales team “We’re excited about the early buzz around a new boot cut. We’re also seeing (all over Tokyo and Seoul right now) a looser, relaxed fit becoming more important. The continued use of denim beyond just pants portends increased sales of trucker jackets, shirts, and indigo-dyed knits. I also love denim mixed with nylon, corduroy and leather to create more handcrafted-inspired styles.” –Durand Guion, Macy’s
g n i t a r b e Cel 100 years
Serving the Independent Menswear Retailer
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ct a t n o c n o i t a m r o f n i e r o For m
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OUTERWEAR
Alpha
THE BIG CHILL The outerwear market remains bullish for fall 2020 based on fabric and style innovation plus savvy approaches to sustainability and sourcing. BY JOHN RUSSEL JONES
NOBODY IN THE outerwear business was complaining about Fall 2019’s cold blasts, spurring sales across the board and setting an upbeat tone for Fall 2020. Utility and function continue to rule, with sustainability now a mandate. Styles are slightly dressier with longer lengths taking hold. Lighter weight pieces that can be layered are also key, leading a trend for travel-friendly pieces and outerwear “wardrobes.”
PERFORMANCE RULES! Throughout the market, performance factors remain dominant, from Sherpa for warmth and textural interest to technical influences such as new and improved fills for extra warmth, special coatings and tech fabrics. “We’re seeing customers re-
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“Men don’t want to sacrifice comfort for style so the fusion of function and fashion is more important than ever,” notes Sebra at Macy’s. “That said, the customer still wants to look put together and polished, whether he’s wearing a tailored topcoat or a nylon puffer vest. We’re seeing many brands address that.” The focus at The North Face remains innovative technology and sustainability with a new emphasis on natural dyes, recycled materials and waste reduction. “This allows us to maintain the quality of our brand while protecting the planet, something that’s more important than ever to The North Face customer,” says North Face exec Tim Hamilton. “In Fall 2019, we officially launched FUTURELIGHT™, an industry-changing innovation that offers consumers an advanced, breathable-waterproof material. In 2020, you’ll see FUTURELIGHT™ in many new products and collections, including footwear.” “People want to see us continue to reinterpret our classic silhouettes in performance fabrics, making them wind- and water-resistant as well as breathable,” says Pantoja.
“Leather and suede resonate as transitional pieces in the early fall; down outerwear and parkas have been strong with the cooling temperatures. Wool topcoats in a variety of shapes are more important than ever—as men get more casual at the office, these sharper styles provide polish. Transitional weights in shorter shirt or chore jacket shapes will continue strong in the fall ’20 season,” Berkowitz continues. “They work best when they’re light enough to wear all day; they’re a hybrid between an outerwear piece and a blazer.” North & Mark’s Cho likes a mix of traditional with technical. “A lot of brands are now offering styles that combine the two, like down-fi lled blazers and peacoats.” “Pieces that have a nostalgic, old-
Nobis
2020 WINNERS! According to most retailers and brands, the layering trend will continue into next winter. Says Macy’s Sebra, “Consumers are increasingly grabbing lightweight jackets and vests for fall, then layering them when temperatures drop. System jackets also offer versatility and lighter weight leather jackets are a cool alternative. This season’s hit, the chore or shirt jacket, is also expected to trend into 2020. Clearly, guys today are thinking about a wardrobe of outerwear as opposed to one coat for an entire season. It’s helping move the category forward and encouraging us to develop outerwear as both a fashion opportunity and a solution for daily life.” “Fleece and lighter-weight synthetic fi ll outerwear pieces are star performers,” says Penfield’s Alastair Rae. “People investing in pieces they can wear throughout the Fall/Winter season and into the cooler parts of Spring. It’s all about the transitional purchase!” “We see a broader diversity of styles gaining popularity this season,” concurs Bloomingdales’ Justin Berkowitz.
MR MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY 2020
spond strongly to heavyweight puffer jackets, mid-weight packables with hoods, and anything and everything in faux shearling,” says Macy’s Matt Sebra. “Our modern utility trend is really resonating with customers, especially any pieces in camouf lage patterns. We see innovation playing a key role in our outerwear mix next Fall, be it in hybrid silhouettes, new construction techniques, or novelty finishes.” “Fashion and technology lead the way,” agrees Michael Fernandez of The Levy Group, outerwear makers for key brands such as Nautica, Sperry, Hickey Freeman, Buffalo & Tahari. “Reversible mid-weights, seamsealed puffers, heavyweight stretch bombers and printed fashion parkas will drives sales in 2020.” The packable trend is a major focus in Tumi’s outerwear collection. “Tumi has a cult-like following,” says the brand’s Natalie Marten. “The outerwear we make complements the brand’s luggage. We’ve had major success with a packable product that rolls into a neck pillow, but we’ve completely reengineered and relaunched that jacket for next season, building in some sustainable elements.” Marten hinted at a piece that will be shown at market that transforms from short to long, perfect for travel and everyday versatility. Packables are also a hit at Hawke, a major resource in department stores. According to Michael Rosenberg, their lightweight Empire packable jacket is selling out in all colors at $49.99; a similarly styled vest (the Brooklyner) is a homerun at $29.99. “Our Sherpa story, which we incorporate into key pieces this season, has been working well for us,” reports Alpha Industries’ Matt Pantoja. “It’s definitely something you’re seeing everywhere. Parkas and puffers have also been strong, and we’ve reinterpreted our classics in longer lengths and with technical attributes. For extra warmth, we offer both Primaloft and down options.” “At North & Mark, our performance wool styles in traditional silhouettes like overcoats and peacoats are our best sellers,” says founder Steve Cho. “For 2020, I believe puffers, as well as eco-friendly fabrics and sustainability, will continue to trend.”
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FOOTWEAR
“IT’S GREAT TO MAKE A TRENDY PIECE OF FASHION WITH RECYCLED AND/OR
SUSTAINABLE MATERIALS,
BUT THAT BECOMES MEANINGLESS IF THE CONSUMER WEARS IT
FOR TWO MONTHS AND THROWS IT OUT.” STEVE CHO, NORTH&MARK school feel are resonating strongest with our web customers,” says Rae. “Recycled fabrics and organic cotton are key trends, trending in a less synthetic, more cotton-rich direction. That ties into the overall move to retro outdoor clothing. It’s a contemporary take on the whole heritage scene.” “We’re doing well with an updated golf jacket in a transitional weight, using a fabric that has a luminous quality that takes dye well,” says Weatherproof’s Jacqui Argueta. “We’ve
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also done some pieces with color blocking in a neutral mix.” The brand also offers a soft-shell program, featuring an updated sustainable fleece lining and sportier looks including a CPO style packable shirt jacket. “We see a continuation of 2019’s nylon and technical fabrics, in long, oversized puffers and fishtail parkas. We’re also getting early reads on patterns and plaids (especially buffalo plaid),” Pantoja concurs. “The sleeping bag coat is back!” de-
clares Sebra. “Looking ahead, we see print and color being extremely important in this category.”
COLOR CUES “From pre-collections, we’re seeing a number of elevated neutral tones— camel, oatmeal, browns, rust, burgundy, olive—that should define the color palette of the 2020 season,” says Berkowitz at Bloomingdales. Weatherproof features an updated neutral palette with warm hues like java, oak, and bourbon. “These are really understandable guy colors,” says Argueta. “We always try and incorporate bold color for that pop, since traditional military is very neutral,” explains Alpha’s Pantoja. “As a performance brand, we have to factor in visibility, especially for our athletes, which often means bright colors,” points out Tim Hamilton of The North Face. “For our city consumers, we look to more neutral tones. It’s exciting that both can now coexist.”
PRICING ISSUES “Our customer is looking for newness and value in one package,” says Sebra at Macy’s. Of course, according to store, the package varies from bargain basement to luxury. Several leather coats and jackets were ticketed in the cool $10,000 neighborhood at Neiman Marcus just before the holidays— not counting the Gucci sequined mohair jacket for $20,000—while Burlington featured J. Whistler brand parkas for $50. The magic price point for the brands we spoke with range from around $150 to $300; Alpha’s Pantoja says the market average is $250. “Being under $200 on a good outerwear style is always going to help!” says Penfield’s Rae. Notes Cho, “At that $300 to $500 price point, you’re able to offer a lot more in the coat than a $100$200 coat from a fast fashion retailer…but you’re still cheaper and at least as good as (or better than) designer brands at $800-$2000.” Several brands are hoping to offset the intrinsic promotional nature of outerwear business by timing deliveries closer to customer need. “We’re
eries closer to customer need. “We’re working with our retailers in each market to ensure they have the correct amount of inventory for the beginning, peak, and end-of-season,” says Robin Yates of Nobis. “Also, rather than offering discounts, our strategy remains focused on training staff and communicating to customers the value of our product, especially as it
North Face
relates to functional outerwear for year-round wear.” Most agree, however, that while more careful timing of deliveries can help, price-promotions are an intrinsic part of the outerwear business, a situation that’s not likely to disappear. According to industry experts, the percentage of outerwear business sold at ticket price hovers around five percent.
TARIFF TRAUMAS
MR MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY 2020
LIKE ALL APPAREL manufacturers, outerwear brands have been looking to keep their supply chains as flexible as possible in order to offer the best price/value combination to retailers and consumers. “It’s hard to say at this stage as the situation seems so fluid,” says Rae, “but tariffs, and in some regards the threat of tariffs, lead to uncertainty and that can’t be good from a consumer confidence perspective.” “Because outerwear is on a longer development timeline than apparel, brands are being hit on margins of 2020 product that they sold before the trade war/tariffs kicked in,” points out Pantoja. “I know it’s been a key point of discussion among many brands, with some taking a ‘wait-and-see’ stance and others a more proactive approach toward moving production to other countries.” “Like all other companies impacted by the tariffs, we’ve had to take a look at our supply chain and think about how we’re going to manufacture in the future,” says Cho. “I think it has a larger impact on outerwear since it’s more complicated to manufacture; moving production to another country is more difficult.” “For The North Face, VF Corporation’s global supply chain allows us to flex our production across countries to lessen the impact of specific trade situations. We’ve been adjusting our production for some time to offset the impact from Chinese trade,” says Hamilton.
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FOOTWEAR
THE UNMEASURABLE FOOTPRINT OF SNEAKERS THE CATEGORY THAT’S TAKEN AMERICA BY STORM SHOWS NO SIGNS OF LETTING UP. BY NANCY KL AIMAN PRENTICE
Golden Goose
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AS THE GLOBAL market for sneakers is projected to reach $88 billion by 2024, consumers are jumping brand and category hurdles to land on the softer surfaces of comfort and inspiration. According to Matt Powell, sports business analyst with NPD Group, athletic footwear continues to outperform fashion [footwear] as three wardrobes (work, workout, and weekend) have been replaced with one that can take you everywhere. “Today what’s working is athleisure: people are buying athletically-inspired footwear with no intention of wearing it for sports,” observes Powell, noting that for the past four years we’ve not seen a single performance category (referring to tennis, running, basketball, etc.) trending positively. What’s more, while the shoe market in general is down, growth for this category, also known as “sport lifestyle,” is up, comprising more than half of the total U.S. sneaker business. Brand expert and strategist Simon Graj, CEO of Graj + Gustavsen, observes some new rules. “We’re in psychographic times, not demographic times, with a ‘mindset’ vs. an ‘age set.’ We’re now freer to express ourselves and to show how we’re not cookie cutter beings. We’re a global community of individuals.” Many agree there’s now space for every consumer on the sneaker spectrum, from the street-styled to the fashion obsessed to the stuffed shirt. Isack Fadlon, co-founder of iconic indie retailer Sportie LA, has ridden the sneaker wave since 1985. He says sneakers are now “part of the repertoire and we can’t get away from them,” recounting numerous wedding couples who bought sneakers for their bridesmaids and groomsmen. Fadlon predicts continued growth in specialty stores– although he acknowledges the difficulty for smaller independent apparel stores to access the major brands (Nike, Adidas, Puma). He emphasizes how sneakers can elevate the game for retailers who want to differentiate and recommends bringing in smaller brands and highlighting seasonal collections. There’s no need to travel far to find a specialty shrine near you. Check out the Kith lifestyle at various locations, walk through the sneaker tunnel at Feature in Las Vegas, get jiggy at Extra Butter on the Lower East Side – or meet your stylist at Dover Street Market in midtown. Not to be outdone, Nordstrom has stepped up its commitment with the Nordstrom x Nike boutique. If you don’t want to leave your house – that’s cool, because the hottest new drops can be found with online sources such as Flight Club, StockX, Eastbay, Stadium Goods, Grailed, and GOAT (specializing in the hard-to-find). Most of the aforementioned are secondary outlets that authenticate and resell to booming
GENTLEMEN PREFER BRANDS
Dior
SNEAKERS HAVE ALWAYS BEEN A SYMBOL OF COOLNESS, A WAY TO EXPRESS YOURSELF—FOREVER YOUNG.” CHELSIE RAVENELL, MEN’S FASHION INFLUENCER
demand. And there’s an app to mention – but it might explode the phone from market power: SNKRS (big surprise: it’s Nike, rated the best brand app out there by Highsnobiety).
PLAYING THE MARKET As if the primary sneaker market isn’t big enough, resale (both underground
MR MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY 2020
CHUNKY DAD IN FASHION… Said no one ever, except possibly when referring to the fad that has encouraged some of the biggest luxury collaborations and the revival of oversized, ‘80s bulky soles and loud patterned uppers known as “dad shoes.” Arguably one of the most beautiful, ugly trends in fashion, there’s some debate as to how it (re)started and who wears it best – Balenciaga or Yeezy? Regardless, this has breathed new life into Fila, added to the Adidas assortment and attracted the attention of Gucci, Versace and Louis Vuitton.
and above), is set to hit $6 billion in the next five years. “I know people who have paid for their house with sneakers,” shared industry insider Baffuor “B.A.” Gyamfi. He credits Kanye West (Yeezy) for invigorating the resale market and prompting people to buy shoes just to sell. He describes a movement propelled by a passion for streetwear and the growing acceptance of vintage and wearing everything old that’s new again. B.A. has a sentimental connection to influencers like Sean Wotherspoon, a Nike collaborator and co-founder of menswear and go-to vintage destination Round Two. Designers like Louis Vuitton’s Virgil Abloh (also an artist and DJ) of Off White and Jerry Lorenzo (founder of the label Fear of God and son of MLB coach Jerry Manuel) are blurring the lines of streetwear and fashion. But while resale and limited editions keep product and brands in demand, some predict the bubble could burst as supply can be a hard thing to control.
A visit to the men’s shoe floor at Nordstrom can put things in perspective. Street (Golden Goose, Fear of God, Balenciaga...) meets sartorial (Magnanni, To Boot, Bottega Veneta…) or somewhere in the middle (Alexander McQueen) with an assortment to make a style match. Here we see the dress code shift in real time with a show of designers who have found a way to make the sneaker look dressy. I eavesdropped on an expert, “The dress guy has collided with the sneaker guy. The kids who were collecting sneakers in the ‘80s and ‘90s are now wearing these.” (He points to a table of Common Projects). For those curious about merchandising sneakers in menswear stores, there’s Porter T. Jones, who operates shoe departments in high-end men’s haberdasheries. “Shoes are a different type of business within the clothing sector,” says owner Christian Jones, explaining how the right mix and expertise can bring more profit to the store and compliment the clothing lines. The ability to identify and implement footwear trends [for men’s stores] is a unique skill set; getting the attention of the wide variety of hard-to-access vendors (brands) is subject to relationships. According to Chris, “Sneaker growth is happening at the expense of driving shoes.” He acknowledges that sneakers have not always been profitable and what they lacked in margin needed to be made up by volume, noting that this dynamic has changed with higher-end brands. When asked which brand has taken off, Chris said it was On – the Swiss brand that has captivated and continually sold out due to their styling, limited quantities and comfort. As for what’s trending, it seems that everything goes. According to men’s fashion influencer Chelsie Ravenell, who sees it all from the retail floor of Gwynn’s in Charleston, “Right now Golden Goose is hot in the world of high-end. I own several of them but I’m also a Jordan 1 guy – my all-time favorite shoe/sneaker ever. I wear them to the gym and with my suits.” He predicts no slowdown to the sneaker craze. “They’ve always been a symbol of coolness, a way to express yourself. Forever young.”
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MARKETING MATTERS
tk caption
INFLUENCER EVOLUTION INFLUENCER MARKETING WORKS BEST WHEN IT’S AUTHENTIC. BY NANCY KL AIMAN PRENTICE
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WITHIN THE REALM of marketing, the use of influencers to promote a brand has become a polarized topic. Critics are quick to note that fraud, bribery, lack of transparency and the inability to measure results have chipped away at this golden nugget of brand opportunity. Supporters maintain that lessons learned from past mistakes have enabled this pivotal marketing tool to evolve in a productive manner.
SOCIAL MEDIA SCALE-UP Simply put, influencer marketing can still extend the reach of a brand. This trend is highly adaptable to change and, like
“THE INFLUENCER MARKET IS SET TO BE AT $5 -10 BILLION IN 2020 – UP FROM JUST $500 MILLION IN 2015.” —EVAN ASANO, MEDIAKIX denim (which began as workwear and transcended to a fashion/lifestyle staple), the influencer has morphed in response to shifts in the market. According to Evan Asano, founder and CEO of influencer marketing agency Mediakix, the influencer industry is set to be at $5-10 billion in 2020 – up from just $500 million in 2015. Influencers are now recognized as content creators, bloggers, storytellers and/or brand ambassadors; a fresh crop of talent continues to move business forward in new dimensions across multiple platforms. Of course, savvier audiences are demanding transparency. The social media that connects us is driving deeper engagement with the creation of communities. Cultural awareness is rounding out initiatives and adding depth to our branding – with sustainability, the environment and human rights at the forefront (rock on, Greta Thunberg!). Where influencers were conducting a monologue, we now have brand ambassadors open to having the dialogue.
LOOKING BEYOND THE LABEL
PICKING THE PLATFORM From social networks (Instagram, Facebook, Twitter…) to influencer marketing softwares (Klear, Upfluence, Pixlee, etc.), online platforms are the new billboards. Chelsie Ravenell, a men’s fashion buyer at Gwynn’s of Mt. Pleasant in South Carolina and a recognized brand ambassador with his own label, has spent decades on and off the selling floor, affording him an ability to understand trends and the shift toward transparency. Ravenell acknowledges that fashion brands including Penguin and Robert Wayne send him clothes and that liquor brands like Van Gogh vodka pay him. But he puts his own twist on what to wear and does only what’s natural to him vs. taking direction from corporate. His
followers expect real content. Samantha Escobar and Oji Haynes have held the title of brand ambassadors with the Naked Retail Group – a modern turnkey solution for DTC brands that want to engage consumers via brick-and-mortar and through pop-ups. For them, the title of brand ambassador is synonymous with brand expert. Inside-out product knowledge and a genuine representation give them the authenticity to “walk the walk” vs. merely wearing or selling items within their portfolio of brands.
FROM ALGORITHMS TO ZEITGEIST Clearly, the social gravitational pull toward authenticity affects influencer marketing. In the age where organic is standard and plastic bags are often illicit, there are agencies to ensure what resonates is real. Jim Tobin, president of the award-winning influencer marketing agency Carusele, notes that “the good influencers have become more selective and realize that promoting products that aren’t a genuine match for their values can hurt their brand.” He insists that all things being equal, someone else saying a brand is high quality is more powerful than the brand saying so. “As the number of minutes spent on social media continues to grow, high quality influencer marketing will drive measurable results for brands that know how to construct their programs.” And smart brands are learning fast. Louis Vuitton is running documentary-style videos on YouTube, bringing influencers backstage for a ‘fly-on-thewall’ viewer experience. Prada partners with an actor/activist to promote their iconic bags in a new sustainable nylon. Ralph Lauren extols American values and reinforces its DNA by featuring diverse families. Fashion brands are stepping away from the mirror, finding creative ways to use influencer marketing to lead with authenticity.
MR MAGAZINE | FEBRUARY 2020
Granted, influencer fatigue may have set in for brands that create the content endorsed by influencers or use one-off partnerships. Influencers who merely review products or model the latest style with a snapshot in their “bio” are seen as limited and somewhat obsolete. Endorsement has given way to engagement. Real content is created by the ambassador–which is often used as advertising, not the other way around. Vanity metrics (registered pageviews, followers, likes) have lost their luster as consumers now seek a deeper connection to the brand and its ambassador. According to Hersh Rephun, CCO at brand consultancy Propeller 5, influencer marketing has refined itself as a model, and the shift is now toward brand building vs. conversion. In his opinion, spokespeople who are natural
fits for a brand can be organic extensions of the sales force. “In the past, many brands jumped into social media and influencers without thinking through the process and return. We now know there’s little correlation between followers and sales.” Rephun encourages brands to hone in on their DNA and discourages them from thinking of anyone representing them as a unicorn or magical solution. “Today’s brand ambassador is someone who reflects the ideals of the brand and can convey the brand message, but isn’t necessarily selling,” shares Rephun. “They need the ability to thrive in a grass roots setting and connect with a live audience in a real way. It’s this connection that informs strategy, messaging and content. Whether influencer or brand ambassador, it’s about the goal, not the label. Brands that further develop their sense of self will align with the right influencer or ambassador to let their identity shine through these associations.” His takeaways: “Figure out the brand DNA and the spokespeople who are a fit; be strategic with content and choose the right platforms.”
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HOW TO SURVIVE 100+ YEARS! Wise advice from Jim Crooks in Clarion, Pa.
TOP TEN TIPS FOR RETAIL LONGEVITY
The FL Crooks team: Leah, Darla, Audrey, Jim, Lydia, Rob, Gayle, Rhianna, Regina, Zach
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Always close on Sundays for refreshment and rest.
1
Build a team that cares for the customer, for the merchandise and for each other.
2
Be who you are–don’t pretend to be something you are not.
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Pay your vendors FIRST before you take a dime.
8
Never take the customer for granted–even family.
Get to work early.
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Be the best you can be each day; don’t obsess about beating last year.
Treat everyone equally– no cutting prices for some.
6
Give back–be generous, even when the pressure is on.
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Own your own building.
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