AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2020 | ISSUE NO. 3 | VOL. 31
AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2020
THE WHAT NOW? ISSUE
THE
WHAT NOW? ISSUE
MEN IN MASKS DAPPER DRAWINGS RACISM IN MENSWEAR QUARANTINE STYLE
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25/08/20 17:40
AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2020
THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY’S MAGAZINE
EDITORIAL EDITOR-IN-CHIEF KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN KAREN.ALBERG@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM FASHION DIRECTOR STEPHEN GARNER STEPHEN.GARNER@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM CREATIVE DIRECTORS NANCY CAMPBELL, TREVETT MCCANDLISS NC@9THREADS.COM, T@9THREADS.COM CONTRIBUTING WRITERS JOHN JONES, CONOR WILLIAMSON
ADVERTISING GROUP PUBLISHER SHAE MARCUS SHAE.MARCUS@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM
DIRECTOR OF SALES MONICA DELLI SANTI
NATIONAL ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE KAREN AZZARELLO
ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES KRISTIN DAUSS, JESSICA SALERNO
PRODUCTION DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION SUSAN WINDRUM
DIRECTOR, ADVERTISING SERVICES JACQUELYNN FISCHER
GRAPHIC DESIGNER, ADVERTISING SERVICES VIOLETA MULAJ
ACCOUNTING STEVEN RESNICK, MEGAN FRANK
ADVISORY BOARD LIZETTE CHIN PRESIDENT, MEN’S, INFORMA
BLAIR DELONGY VP OPERATIONS, JOHN CRAIG/CURRENT
FRED DERRING FOUNDER, DLS OUTFITTERS
LINDSAY MORTON GAISER VP/GMM, ANDRISEN MORTON
DURAND GUION GROUP VP, FASHION OFFICE, MACY’S INC.
DONNY HUBBARD OWNER, HUBBARD CLOTHING
WILL LEVY PRESIDENT, OAK HALL
SHARIFA MURDOCK CO-OWNER/SALES DIRECTOR, LIBERTY FAIRS, CAPSULE, CABANA
JIM MURRAY PRESIDENT, A.K. RIKKS
BRUCE PASK MEN’S FASHION DIRECTOR, BERGDORF GOODMAN/NEIMAN MARCUS BRUCE SCHEDLER VP, CHICAGO COLLECTIVE
WAINSCOT MEDIA CHAIRMAN CARROLL V. DOWDEN PRESIDENT & CEO MARK DOWDEN
SENIOR VICE PRESIDENTS SHAE MARCUS, CARL OLSEN
VICE PRESIDENTS NIGEL EDELSHAIN, TOM FLANNERY, RITA GUARNA
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Why Buy Your Shirts from Christopher Lena? To make money, of course! Steve Valenti, Steven Valenti Clothing, Pittsfield, MA: “Christopher Lena is a major player in our store: we call there at least three times a week to place fill-in orders; their customer service is amazing! Both their blends and all-cottons are always available in a broad range of colors, sizes, and fits, offering better quality and value than most designer labels. Iʼve sold literally thousands of these shirts in the five years weʼve carried the line and Iʼve never had a single return!” Steve Warby, The Clothing Center, East Brunswick, NJ: “I discovered the Christopher Lena shirt collection at a trade show: I liked that there were different price levels, all exceptional quality. I liked the broad range of colors, sizes and fits. I also liked Lenny: heʼs smart, personable and actually listens--to both compliments and criticisms. If something needs to be fixed, Lenny fixes it. Heʼs never pushy and heʼs incredibly innovative—always on top of new trends like his successful entry into performance stretch fabrics.” Paul Rosengard, Suits 20/20, Niles, IL: Weʼve been doing business with Lenny and his father for 29 years. His father built a great business but when Lenny took over, he did a phenomenal job elevating the styling and quality and bringing the business into the 21st century. His shirts are the best value in the dress shirt and sport shirt markets today, inspiring tremendous customer loyalty and repeat business. Weʼve cut back on our designer brands to sell more Christopher Lena! Dana Katz, Miltons The Store for Men, MA: “Lenny is one of our absolute favorite vendors because he combines terrific product at exceptional value with a great team that always executes well. Heʼs a smart business person who listens intently, embraces change, asks good questions and possesses the rare qualities of humility and empathy.” Fred Derring, DLS: “Many of our stores have had tremendous success with Christopher Lena shirts: their in-stock programs are incredible: all sizes, all colors, all fits, shipped out right way. Their blended shirt program is a monster! And Lenny is a wonderful person, always a pleasure to work with!”
E D I T O R᾿S L E T T E R
WHEN NOTHING IS
C E R TA I N ALTHOUGH we’re eating too much, drinking too much, and are already giving up exercise, baking bread, learning Italian, remodeling our homes… ALTHOUGH we greatly miss actual visits with our industry friends and colleagues: trade shows, market appointments, handshakes, brainstorming, schmoozing…
ALTHOUGH most menswear retailers admit sales are down by at least half (fearing their current business models are no longer sustainable…) ALTHOUGH we know we need to reinvent our businesses but are unsure how to do it… ALTHOUGH Corona virus cases keep rising and Congress keeps fighting and people keep protesting and we’ve become depressed and exhausted, Zoomed Out and Zoned Out… ALTHOUGH retailers and brands and trade shows struggle to figure out digital shopping… 8
ALTHOUGH The New York Times Magazine just did a cover story called Sweatpants Forever about the unraveling of the entire fashion industry… ALTHOUGH little makes sense anymore and one day melts into the next and it’s hard to know who or what to believe… ALTHOUGH in our fight for social justice, some things have improved but too much remains totally unchanged… ALTHOUGH just when we think things can’t get any worse, they do… ALTHOUGH all this is happening, our amazing menswear industry remains resilient, optimistic, and always there for each other. We hope you enjoy this digital issue of MR and hope we can stay increasingly connected in the difficult months to come. For I truly believe that together,
we’ll come up with creative new paths to make it through this storm, to save not just our businesses but our country and the values upon which it was built. In this unprecedented era of ambiguity and change, I share with you an inspiring quote from TheMindsJournal.com.
TRUST THE WAIT. EMBRACE THE UNCERTAINT Y. ENJOY THE BEAUT Y OF BECOMING. WHEN NOTHING IS CERTAIN, ANY THING IS POSSIBLE.
P U B L I S H E R᾿S L E T T E R
IN IT
TOGETHER I’ve been working in menswear for the past 13 years, during which time I’ve become increasingly passionate about connecting vendors and retailers as a community. Be it through our magazine pages, our daily newsletters, or at shows and events, our team takes great pride in bringing people together with integrity, enthusiasm, and successful results.
Of course, in these troubling times, it’s become more difficult to connect people in person. However, I’m inspired by the daily calls I’m having with vendors and retailers who I now call friends. They’re creating exciting new ways to do business, as we’ve also had to do at MR. Webinars, podcasts, Instagram videos and of course our digital magazines are ventures that are 10
proving both provocative and profitable. Through these new channels, we’re able to connect brands directly to our dedicated readers: buyers and store owners who are eagerly seeking new product and new ideas. Yes, times have been extremely difficult for all of us. But we will get through it, together, as a community. One new idea at a time.
Thank you for all the support you’ve given us over the years. We look forward to strengthening these partnerships, and building new ones, in the months ahead.
SHAE MARCUS
PUBLISHER
An American Lifestyle Brand
Reset for Fall with our lifestyle collection shirts
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sweaters
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jackets
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pants
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coats
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formal
Shop the collection on NuOrder.com
AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2020
CONTENTS
D E PA R T M E N T S 8 Editor’s Letter
32 Fashion–Dapper Drawings
When nothing is certain.
Illustrations from artist Matthew Miller, aka, Sunflowerman.
10 Publisher's Message
32
68 MR:Q
Beacuse we're in it together.
Dean and Dan Caten fete 25 years of DSquared2.
14 Ones to Watch
72 The End
Emerging brands to boost sales.
Designing for a postCOVID future.
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F E AT U R E S
64
18 Virtual Reality
46 Quarantine Style
Will buying digitally save spring '21?
Industry executives looking chic at home.
22 Retailer's React
50 Racism in Menswear
Merchants tell all on how digital buying is really going.
It's 2020: where is the outrage?
26 Staying Sane
Smart merchants are doubling down on suits.
How industry insiders managed through quarantine.
42 Men in Masks Face coverings: fashion's newest category.
50 12
56 Tailored Tales
60 Sportswear Spotlight Well-made classics save the WFH wardrobe.
64 Influencers in the Wild
MR (ISSN 1049-6726, USPS 7885) IS PUBLISHED FOUR TIMES A YEAR (JANUARY, FEBRUARY, JULY, AUGUST) MR MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED BY WAINSCOT MEDIA, 1 MAYNARD DRIVE, PARK RIDGE, NJ 07656. PERIODICALS POSTAGE PAID AT MAHWAH, NJ. AND AT ADDITIONAL MAILING OFFICES. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO MR MAGAZINE, 1 MAYNARD DRIVE, PARK RIDGE, NJ 07656. SUBSCRIPTION SERVICES: TO CHANGE AN ADDRESS OR REQUEST A SUBSCRIPTION, WRITE TO SUBSCRIPTIONS, MR MAGAZINE, 1 MAYNARD DRIVE, PARK RIDGE, NJ 07656; TELEPHONE: 201-573-5541. ADVERTISING INQUIRIES: CONTACT SHAE MARCUS AT 856.797.2227 OR SHAE.MARCUS@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM. COPYRIGHT © 2020 BY WAINSCOT MEDIA, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 31, ISSUE 3.
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ONES TO WATCH
Duvin
NEW THREADS THESE THREE RISING BRANDS ARE SERVING UP CREATIVELY-DESIGNED PRODUCT YOU SHOULD ADD TO YOUR MIX. BY STEPHEN GARNER
DUVIN
Austin Duvall grew up in the business, catching the fashion retail bug while working in his parent’s surf shop in Downtown Disney. “As soon as I graduated from college, I moved in with my lifelong friends (Garrett Watzka and Shaun O’Meara) and we started a clothing brand,” he tells us. “Without any experience or capital to back it up, it was definitely a wild time. Fast forward eight years through more learning and mistakes than I could have imagined and here we are.” Duvall serves as the brand/creative director for his label, Duvin, which is now sold in 130 specialty surf shops and boutiques, in 10 countries, and worn by athletes and celebrities like Bad Bunny, Odell Beckham, and Rickie Fowler. He credits the brand’s interesting blend of ‘70s and ‘80s beach style updated with a modern touch, as well as the loyal community the trio has cultivated over the years, as its secret to success. Notable items that Duvall can’t keep in stock are the brand’s woven shirts and trunks. Most items in the collection range between $20 and $65 retail. Some of Duvin’s fall pieces get above $100, with custom outerwear and denim jackets. For spring/summer 2021, Duvall says he’s focusing on more of his core ‘70s surf vibe. “Airbrush, lightning bolts, retro striping, yin yangs, color blocking is really where the brand thrives, so I’m always nervous and excited for everyone to see it.” 14
PA R T N E R S H I P S
A Perfect Match! Tay i o n an d Pe e r les s Sha r e Vis ion a nd Va lues . BY MR EDITORS
LEARLY, MONTEE HOLLAND was born with an innate sense of style. Growing up in Detroit, he didn’t know about FIT, Parsons, or other fashion institutions, but he did know that he wanted to dress like his basketball coach and the Dean of Students at his school. “I loved how they put themselves together, always in a nice tailored suit, pristine shirt and tie, cuff links… I knew I wanted to look like that so I studied the details. Then, while overseas with the Marine Corps, I connected with some factories and designed a few suits for friends and family. It became a passion and ultimately, after a stint at teaching (my degrees are in education) and a great job in pharmaceuticals (I was Pfizer’s top salesman when they launched the little blue pill), I took a risk and turned my passion for fashion into a profession.” Officially launching in 2003 with a tiny booth at MAGIC (followed by a shared booth with Steve Harvey!), Tayion (Holland’s middle name) started as a luxury brand, selling mostly to athletes, celebrities and upscale specialty stores. Next came a fusion line that generated huge volume and broader distribution. (Editor’s note: The brand landed the cover of the April ‘08 MR!) But with this new Peerless partnership, Holland believes he’s now got the perfect product at the right price for the right time. “I’ve always had a unique concept of tailored clothing: I’d say 75-80 percent of my pieces can tie into other pieces in multiple ways. It’s an interchangeable collection concept that’s perfect for our post-pandemic era.” Peerless EVP Doug Raicek agrees, further explaining that the partnership is a unique joint venture. “It’s Montee’s company, it’s his brand; we just serve as his back-end. I met Montee at the beginning of the year and his talent, taste level and dynamic personality were immediately apparent. He was a one-man show creating exciting fashion for an under-served community in the department store world. We saw the need and wanted to support it.” Ron Wurtzburger first met Montee three years ago and they’ve been talking ever since. “I knew he’d be successful based on his talent, work ethic and desire to win. For us, this was the perfect
opportunity to help an African-America designer while filling a notable void in the market. Bottom line, we need diversity in our industry: there’s so much minority talent that hasn’t been given a chance! Montee is also a generous supporter of the National Business League, an organization that educates and empowers minority-owned companies. Peerless has always been about giving back. With Montee’s talent, our resources, and our shared values, it’s a perfect match.” You can follow Montee on Instagram at @tayionfashionsuits.
ONES TO WATCH
PROUD
The concept for Proud was born during the 2016 presidential campaign and the extraordinary divisiveness it ignited. “I wanted to create a ‘badge’ brand (using athleisure as the platform to cut across a broad multi-generational group), which stood for unity and celebrating American values and could spark positive conversation about what makes each of us proud,” Proud founder Ehsan Rezvan tells MR. “I also want to build a business whose foundation is about the best of humanity. For me, that means giving back to causes around which Americans can unite.” Rezvan credits the brand’s success to its mission to brings people together, even with the current divisiveness in this country. He notes that the majority of his line retails between $24 and $118, with its most popular men’s piece being the “Be Bold” bomber hoodie. Especially strong now is Proud’s bold collection of all black and white pieces that could easily be paired with an existing wardrobe. Plans for additional new pieces have been put on hold due to COVID-19 and the challenges with factory production shutting down. But Rezvan says he looks forward to introducing new styles for the brand as soon as they’re able to! Rezvan left us with a few words of wisdom: “There’s never been a moment quite like the one we’re in right now…Proud is unifying people with a positive message and giving back with every purchase…I think Proud is a lifestyle brand that’s ‘tailor made’ for this moment in history.”
OAS
“OAS was born as a reaction to Sweden’s extremely dark, cold and long-lasting winters,” says Nicklas Barry, head of the brand’s U.S. operations. “Our founder, Oliver Adam Sebastian, frequented Barcelona to escape this unbearable season in Sweden, and fell in love with the ease and comfort of Spanish espadrilles, starting the line solely around that in 2010. Soon, swimwear, resort wear and robes were added to give customers all over the world the chance to dress for vacation year-round.” Barry notes that the brand’s most popular fabric is its terry cloth. “Terry is the go-to fabric for summer – it keeps you dry, cool, and fashionable,” he says. “We not only have our terry robes, but also terry shirts that pair perfectly with our swim trunks, resulting in the perfect after-beach outfit.” Swimwear retails around $85 for patterned styles, but can go up to $149 for embroidered styles. OAS’s solid terry polo shirts start out at $99 and range up to $115 for the patterned Cuban terry button-up shirt. You can find OAS in Rothmans, Huckberry, Soho Beach House, Nordstrom, Got Style, The Optimist, Current by John Craig and many more great partners across the U.S. In Europe, the brand is featured in stores such as Liberty London and other top doors. For spring/summer ’21, OAS is continuing to experiment with bold aesthetics, while trying to elevate its mix of print offerings. Fans of the line can also expect a complete remake of its famous espadrilles. 16
Proud
OAS
Now offering more ways to connect brands and retailers Webinars Sponsored Podcasts Video Daily Newsletter Video Banner Ads CONTACT SHAE MARCUS : 856.797.2227 | shae.marcus@wainscotmedia.com
TRADESHOWS
On our (virtual) way to the shows!
Fall looks from January’s Project New York.show.
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An influncer in Hudson Yards.
BE THE SAVIOR?
BY STEPHEN GARNER
IF THIS YEAR hasn’t given you whiplash, then you haven’t been paying attention. From politics to Coronavirus, our world seems more in a state of flux than in recent memory. And, with COVID-19 as the cause of the cancellation of most physical events all around the world, it was inevitable that
this summer’s menswear buying season would not look “business as usual.” It all started in April when Pitti Uomo announced that it would move its dates from its typical June timeslot to September, causing a ruckus amongst buyers about moving too late into the year to make their deliveries
work. Other buyers proclaimed that this was a good thing, perhaps a shift in the fashion calendar wasn’t so bad? And, with Pitti’s move, many other shows followed its lead with pushing their dates further into the year, but many industry insiders were skeptical the shows could still happen.
MR MAGAZINE AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2020
SPRING 2021 BE MENSWEAR’S L O S T S E A S O N , O R W I L L D I G I TA L B U Y I N G
WILL
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TRADESHOWS And, it seemed these skeptics were right. In May through July, all of the country’s major trade shows including Project, Chicago Collective, Liberty Fairs, and MAGIC Las Vegas announced they would not operate a physical show. Pitti also subsequently announced it would slate its next physical show for January 2021. Above: Scenes Note: as of this story’s from a recent deadline, only the Dallas Liberty Fairs. Men’s Show, the West Coast Trend Show, the Charlotte Show, and by-appointment shows in Boston and The Haberdasher’s Guild, have agreed to hold physical shows. So, what are brands and buyers supposed to do now that they can’t see one another? Go digital! Pitti Uomo, Liberty Fairs, MAGIC, and Project have all jumped through hoops to make a digital trade show possible in the limited time they’ve had to develop them. Most have teamed up with existing online marketplaces like Joor (Liberty Fairs) and NuOrder (MAGIC and Project) to make these shows a possibility. Pitti has expanded its existing e-Pitti and Pitti Connect platforms to enable its digital show, and the Italian Trade Commission has developed its own platform to market its participating brands in the U.S. this season. But other shows, like Chicago Collective and the Park Lane show, 20
have canceled all-together. Now, let’s get down to logistics. Most of these digital shows are relying heavily on content and storytelling to help brands communicate with buyers on what’s new and exciting in their collections this season. Other common features like digital catalogs, line sheets, 360-degree imagery, and shoppable hotspots to connect and conduct commerce, help to aid in this task. But many buyers are unconvinced they can make informed purchases without touching and feeling product – as well as having to learn how to use new software in order to complete their buy. While these shows can’t fix the former, they are addressing the latter by hosting webinars on how to use their new platforms, as well as providing live chat support in some cases. Informa’s shows (MAGIC and Project, among others), will launch on September 1st in partnership with NuOrder, and will run through November 1st. With a full eight-week run time, retail buyers will be able to leisurely explore a full library of shoppable editorials and engaging
educational content, from tastemaker-curated roundups, and retail discovery sessions to timely industry insights. According to Lizette Chin, president of men’s fashion for Informa Markets, the company has seen thousands of registrations so far, and is expecting thousands more by the time of the marketplace’s launch. “Our attendees will experience familiar curated communities such as the Tents, Made in Italy, and the N:OW section along with continuous exclusive editorial content to drive buyers to the Project brands,” Chin tells MR. “While we all miss the physical event and plan to have Project Digital as a complement to the Project show moving forward, this digital platform offers buyers from around the world access to our coveted list of brands in real time.” As for Liberty Fairs, it launched on August 17th at 9 am in partnership with Joor. Brands have set up a profile like they typically would in a booth at the show. Retailers will be able to connect with brands on the platform and access all the brands’ information.
“THIS DIGITAL PL ATFORM OFFERS BUYERS ACCESS T O OUR COVETED LIS T OF BR ANDS.” LIZETTE CHIN
Looks from the Liberty Fairs community.
MR MAGAZINE AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2020
Zoom video calls to show product live can be scheduled on the platform, as well as access to linesheets and lookbooks. So why should buyers attend these shows instead of just going directly to each brand? In a recent Zoom panel discussion hosted by Fashion Group International, Edwina Kulego, Liberty Fairs’ newly-appointed vice president says it’s all about curation and community. “We are creating a space where retailers can shop brands all in one space at any time of the day instead of searching for 100 different brands independently and having to use their platforms. It’s the same reason buyers and brands attend our shows in the first place: we are here to bring people together in an easy and meaningful way.” Moving into 2021, both Informa and Liberty say they’d like to combine the learnings and technology from this season into further physical shows – perhaps creating a new normal for shopping collections. “Physical shows are not going away, if anything, the recent quarantines have made us appreciate in-person interaction,” Kulego told MR last month. “Now we are tasked with embracing a digital approach with physical experience in a new way as we move forward into 2021. We will be reimaging what the physical shows look like, partnering with forward-thinking brands, and developing ways to combine the physical and digital worlds.”
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OPINION
RE TA ILERS WEIGH IN O N D I G I TA L SHOPPING By Karen Alberg Grossman and Stephen Garner
The use of digital technology for connecting brands with retailers and retailers with consumers (not to forget brands with consumers) seemed “virtually” inevitable even before the pandemic. Here’s what some key retailers are thinking of their forced change in buying for spring ‘21.
Andy Mallor, Andrew Davis, Bloomington, Indiana I’ve now sat through two virtual appointments: In both cases, the vendor did a great job with the preparation, sending samples and information. The first appointment was for trousers and, while not as satisfactory as being in the showroom, it worked just 22
fine because we were already familiar with the product and the fit. The second appointment was with a multi-brand showroom. Here it became much harder. The lighting was inadequate as was the camera. It was difficult to get a feel for fabric or fit.
Advice to those vendors who might be interested a virtual trade show: invest in technology and plan ahead via great digital images, clear line sheets, etc. Of course, the best part of a trade show is finding new and exciting lines. This will be almost impossible in a virtual world.
MR MAGAZINE AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2020
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OPINION
R Richard Pattison, Taylor Richards & Conger, Charlotte, North Carolina I’m not sure that I fully comprehend the idea of a virtual trade show, but if it works, that would be great. One thing I’ve learned from the two spring 2021 virtual buying appointments we’ve been through is that high speed internet connections and high definition video equipment are a must. Not being an IT specialist, I don’t necessarily know how to facilitate such, but all retailers will need to see the products as clearly as possible. Erick DeLeon, MartinPatrick3, Minneapolis, Minnesota It hasn’t been the same for every brand that we have met with, but luckily, we haven’t had any real difficulties buying virtually. We have been using NuOrder and Joor for years now to finalize orders, so this isn’t new to us. The only frustration has been when some brands are not prepared for this selling season. The brands that have imagery, lookbooks, and/ or linesheets, as well as some sort of digital ordering system, are doing the best in terms
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of creating productive buying appointments. Three hour Zoom or FaceTime calls are just not productive. I’d rather look at swatches, samples, lookbooks, and then reconvene on a call to place our order. The brands that don’t have these things are frustrating to work with, and may have some troubles this season. But, overall, our store has a great sense of direction, and we know what we are looking for going into spring. David Rubenstein, Rubenstein’s, New Orleans, Louisiana We’re all about touch, fabric, fit, etc. so I don’t think the specialty apparel business will transition to all digital. We’re not a replacement business; we’re for a small segment of the world that appreciates fashion. Apple did not replace the watch business. Uber did not replace the car business. We will continue to cater to customers who love to shop.
Scott Shapiro, Syd Jerome, Chicago, Illinois I make enough mistakes when I can see real product in real time. Can you imagine what can happen virtually…
Brian O’Neill, Brigade, Cleveland, Ohio The consensus from my buying team is that there’s a challenge finding new products that we can see and touch. Also, our customer likes a specific fit on most of our denim and joggers. (We try most of them on ourselves in showrooms.) Now it’s going to be hard to identify the fit unless the showroom/ vendor does more work on fit guides and measurements. A positive spin is that virtual trade shows will cut down on wasted time, travel expenses, and energy, creating a more efficient and focused buying process. Rick and Jim Penn, Puritan Cape Cod, Hyannis, Massachusetts We live in a time of great uncertainty. We should be less concerned about predetermining the outcome and be more open to see where a new process leads us. Retailers and vendors are looking at ways to digitize parts of their business. The virtual trade show would offer some innovation in how we get a “first look” at new merchandise. This could evolve into a hybrid model as fabric swatches or samples for fit would be sent to the retailer if requested. We’re all in a storm and innovation is needed to get us to the other side. The virtual trade show is a start to achieving a new way for vendors and retailers to connect. Murry Penner, M.Penner, Houston, Texas While we had a very rough start with digital shopping appointments (disappointing
“I BELIEVE VIRTUAL PRESENTATIONS ARE THE WAY OF THE FUTURE AND SHOULD BE EMBRACED.” — LEE LEONARD, DLS
Hal Lansky, Lansky Bros., Memphis, Tennessee I admit my generation is finding it harder to grasp virtual meetings and new merchandise ordering forms (NuOrder, Joor, etc). I marvel at how younger retailers are doing everything electronically with ease. Anyway, Lansky’s will do virtual meetings. We will lean on our top vendors to make a trip to Memphis or to send us samples and swatches. Our vendor list and selections will narrow, focusing on proven winners. There will not be much room for fringe items from anybody since, going into spring 2021, our OTB will be reduced by at least 35
percent. But we will still be in the market if only talking to fellow retailers and vendors via phone, emails and zoom, looking for the next winners. We will weather this storm and be back to normal before we know it.
Julie Lansky, Lansky Bros., Memphis, Tennessee The women’s industry has been pretty tech-savvy compared to men’s over the last several years so I feel comfortable with the direction technology is taking, allowing us to shop digitally as I have been doing for quite some time. The current climate is forcing vendors to be creative in their photography, line sheets, and updating their technology to be able to showcase their products in the best light. The pandemic has forced the men’s industry to learn and adapt to Zoom, social media, and investing money into their own websites. Yes, it’s important to cultivate relationships in person via tradeshows. However, I believe business can go on with virtual tradeshows and Zoom vendor appointments. We are a touch and feel industry so we should be able to have a conversation if an order is placed virtually and it’s not exactly what was expected. We should have an agreement on exchange or return.
Eddie Boas, Lanes, Miami, Florida I think that virtual trade shows would be most effective for vendors that we already have established relationships with, product knowledge, fit, fabrics, etc. The challenge is finding new product if we are unable to see it and touch it ourselves. If, after viewing a virtual presentation, a new (for us) vendor would be willing to send samples of items that we’re interested in, without commitment on our part, I think we would be more receptive to considering that product for our store. Considering a new product, absent the tactile experience, would be a non-starter. Lee Leonard, DLS, New York, New York Four or five years ago, DLS created a partnership with NuOrder: we met, got educated on their concept. They even provided iPads to use as a tool to promote. Well long story short: we spent a lot of time trying to educate vendors and stores alike but got nowhere so we had to put this endeavor aside. Today, NuOrder is embraced throughout the industry and used all the time. So, bottom line: we all have to embrace new ways of showing and selling product. I believe virtual presentations are the way of the future and should be embraced. If nothing else, this will give us an overview of the season. Howard Vogt, Rodes, Louisville, Kentucky We’ve done four virtual buying sessions with key vendors and it’s not great: shaky cameras, disorganized presentations. Will hopefully get better with practice.
MR MAGAZINE AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2020
technology, unfulfilled vendor promises to produce and send swatches/samples), many brands have come around and I’ve been able to get most of what I need to remain optimistic about the buy. Some digital appointments have been as good as possible, others required begging for common sense. Still, I don’t believe digital shopping is the wave of the future. We have to get back into showrooms as soon as it’s safe. If it weren’t for the fact that I’d have to quarantine for 14 days coming from Texas, I would have been in NYC showrooms by now – even if I had to drive. As for virtual trade shows, I can see where this may be the only way to find the new lines we’re hoping to bring in this season. But there will have to be some give and take when it comes to swaps, returns, or other types of exchange. As we so painfully learned in a few cases, it’s much easier to share the pain on the front end than after the fact.
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LIFESTYLES
S T R AT E G IE S F O R
SURVIVAL FA S H I O N I N D U ST R Y C O P E D W I T H T H E C O V I D - 1 9 Q U A R A N T I N E BY CONOR WILLIAMSON HOW THE
A S YO U A L RE A DY know, few industries have been hit harder by the Coronavirus – now afflicting America and the world for nearly six months. Many stores closed or even went out of business. Fashion shows and trade shows came to a complete halt. Many people, having lost their primary income, stopped purchasing new apparel. No one would have blamed the fashion world if it simply rolled over and played dead.
But that didn’t prove to be case. Fashion folk once again proved their determination, their wisdom and their strength by finding new strategies for balancing life and work and, in most cases, becoming more productive than ever! Here, MR surveyed a cross-section of industry professionals – executives, designers, retailers and more – to find out their strategies for survival during this unprecedented pandemic.
BRODY BAKER, CREATIVE DIRECTOR, MOOSE KNUCKLES I spent the first three months of quarantine in upstate New York, which was a true luxury to ease into (except our two city dogs escaped daily to terrorize cows and deer.) But in the end, the access to the outdoors created balance. I would start my day at 7am and before I knew it the sun was going down. The distraction of the city was gone and it created an extreme focus on work. I also think the entire company got into a really productive flow using virtual tools to work together in 26
real time. I believe we became more efficient with communication and creativity. Maybe we were over-communicating, and I am curious to see how this experience affects our workflow after Covid. Ultimately, though, the most important thing is that we didn’t let any of these obstacles slow us down. It was quite the opposite. And I will definitely try and have a better city/nature balance from now on. I realized how crucial it is to have a bit of daily simple silence.
ANDRE WILLIAMS FOUNDER, DAEKSHIN & CO.
Fitness has always been a huge part of my life as a professional football player. But I’ve been studying a secret form of martial artist fitness for about four years that aims to improve athleticism through bodyweight mastery techniques. Then, when football stopped back in March, my wife, my son, and myself flew back up to New Jersey from Houston and I started practicing Daeqido again! It’s based on the martial artist philosophy of overcoming the body with the mind by way of fitness. I completed my certification for personal
training, and I took on several clients that I work with a few times a week. Training, for many people, is a natural and effective way to maintain optimum physical, mental, and spiritual physique. When it comes to practicing Daeqido, I find that statement is even more true. What I learned by doing it regularly and by becoming a trainer was it allowed me to overcome my mind in order to advance in the practice, and that my business mind also became stronger at multi-tasking and working through obstacles.
“WE FIND THE ANTICS OF THE SQUIRRELS MORE FUN THAN THE NIGHTLY NEWS.” — WENDY THOMPSON, MAJESTIC INTERNATIONAL
The self-care part of quarantine has been really important to managing life. From decorating my new home in the mountains of Marrakech to the simple preparation of a meal in the kitchen, I found that staying busy with the parts of life you can control has been refreshing. I’ve also recently taken up tennis and swimming, not on a professional level by any means, but just to relax my mind and body. In fact, I haven’t been
doing anything over the top or too zealous that would bring more stress into my life. I believe this new routine has grounded me and helped me focus more on all the tasks
on hand while remaining adaptable and even more agile. Most of all, it has also taught me to have fun with fashion and mess up the industry a bit.
MR MAGAZINE AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2020
RANDALL BACHNER, DESIGNER, MARRAKSHI LIFE
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LIFESTYLES
GABRIELLA GOMEZ, GLOBAL MARKETING DIRECTOR, K-SWISS I have been taking every opportunity to get outside. Working in a historic building in downtown Los Angeles, I typically wouldn’t see a lot of daylight during the work week as our office had dark tinted windows and most of my day was spent in a conference room. But during quarantine I start every day with a run and have been hiking on the weekends. I’ve also been taking calls from my small patio. I’ve found that being able to keep an active routine has helped me manage the stress of not knowing when this pandemic will end, and that finding any reason to get dressed, get outside, breathe fresh air and soak up a bit of sunshine has made me much more productive throughout the day. I’m truly more focused and energetic than ever before!
JOEY MENDEZ, CO-OWNER, ULAH IN KANSAS CITY My partner Buck and I always had difficulties with work/life balance. The beginning of our local stay at home mandate was definitely a time for us to take a breather. We continued to work in the store, running our social media and offering delivery and curbside pickup along with regular shipping for our online store, but we had shortened work hours and took Sundays off completely. So we’ve taking up bicycling on Sunday mornings. We’ll go all over the city, stop at coffee shops and lunch spots, and ride around parks. Exploring our city on bikes gave us a totally different perspective and we’ve found spots that we had never previously explored. Although the store is now open, we have continued with Sundays off, having hired a part-time person to cover the entire day. Not only has it allowed is to let go of the worry, but having that time off from thinking about the store helps us come back on Mondays refreshed and ready to tackle the week. We also work out on Tuesdays and Thursdays before work, and we’re looking into taking a Yoga class on Friday evenings as an “end of the week” stress reliever. 28
“I AM REALLY GRATEFUL FOR THE TIME TO RESET PRIORITIES AND GOALS, EVEN THOUGH ITS AGAINST MY NATURE TO SLOW DOWN.” — VICTOR LYTVINENK, RALEIGH DENIM
VICTOR LYTVINENKO CO-FOUNDER/DESIGNER, RALEIGH DENIM WORKSHOP
I got into gardening in a big way. My wife Sarah and I turned every inch of soil around our house and brought in two dump truck loads of compost. We turned a room in our house into a make-shift greenhouse and Sarah has been studying all the different species and Latin names. We mostly focused on flowers, but we did plant some lemongrass, tomatoes, cucumbers and a ton of herbs. Every morning we walk around
the house and say hello to every plant in the “Wobbly Garden” as a 4-year-old neighborhood boy named it as he walked by one day. But I’ve also been able to spend a lot more time alone in the workshop in the evenings and weekends. While there, I’ve really been focused on making hand-painted protest flags for the Black Lives Matter protesters downtown, but also have had a few moments of garment exploration too. Ultimately, it seems funny to say it, but I am really grateful for the time to reset priorities and goals, even though it is and was against my nature to slow down.
Like everyone, adjusting to quarantine had its challenges especially trying to make work and personal life all happen at home. It took a few weeks, but over time I started to get into a comfortable rhythm taking breaks throughout the work day to spend time with family. I also started renting CitiBikes and riding around, at first to do grocery shopping and errands, and then to just get outside, explore and clear my mind while doing a physical activity. I also got inspired to join a couple of online courses. I’m currently taking one called “Strategy Camp”,
which is focused on critical thinking and creativity that I’ve been applying to my job. Now, I’m thinking of joining Masterclass
and Skillshare to take a couple of courses to try new things and improve on hobbies I’m passionate about.
MR MAGAZINE AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2020
MATTHEW PANTOJA VP, MARKETING AND E-COMMERCE, ALPHA INDUSTRIES
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LIFESTYLES
ADAM MAR, DESIGNER, ADAM MAR I have been surfing a lot. In part, it’s because I draw a lot of inspiration from the surf and the ocean. But also having the ability to be in the water on a regular basis has kept the creative process flowing. Being in the water has also forced me to reprioritize my dayto-day tasks. Now, big-picture thinking and design has taken more of a priority over the daily “rat wheel” type tasks. I discovered, as many others did as well, that the pandemic had driven us all back to nature and to the value of being outside. Moreover, I’ve come to the realization that being outdoors is healing for me as well as for my customers. And what better way to experience that than in Montauk, where I can be out on the water every day.
JEREMY STEWART CEO, HARI MARI
CRISTIANO MAGNI PRESIDENT, CRISTIANO MAGNI PUBLIC RELATIONS I’ve discovered great workout videos on YouTube and I’ve been meditating every day with an app that recreates a variety of sounds. For example, I meditate to the sound of an air conditioner every morning. I didn’t know it could be so relaxing. I also started learning Portuguese on a fun app called Drops and I write three pages in a journal every day. Not to mention I watched Schitt’s Creek compulsively. We all need a good laugh. Plus, I made sure to do some physical activity. Without all this, my quarantine would have been pretty nerve racking. This helped me focus and feel good. 30
I think like most people, combining weeks of indoor living with a lack of travel for work, left me restless. Getting outdoors to hike, bike or run with my family has been my go-to outlet for reflection and mental relaxation, while also satisfying that side of me that enjoys being on the go. We even took a trip to Yellowstone National Park that was wonderful. But perhaps the most interesting thing is that pre-Covid, my place to mentally work through Hari Mari issues was always my car. It’s where I used to do my best thinking – which always proves to be a thrill ride for whoever’s in the passenger seat as I tend to zone out a bit! But with less time now spent in the car, my new outdoor regimen has served as a great (and safer) replacement. I am not sure if I’ll ever go back to the car. Personally, I’ve always wanted to ride motorcycles and learn to kite surf. But my family (and Hari Mari’s investors) have asked that I not do the former, so kite surfing it is!
FIVE TIPS ON HOW T O CLEAR YOUR MIND AND REL AX WHILE WORKING THROUGH QUAR ANTINE B Y VA L E R I E K N O P I K
1. Create space devoted to work, whether it’s an actual room or a portion of your dining table. Once space is defined, organize it (and keep it that way!). Cluttered workspace makes for a cluttered mind.
WENDY THOMPSON, PRESIDENT, USA FOR MAJESTIC INTERNATIONAL
4. Schedule time to move, breathe, and tune in once a day or in multiple small bursts throughout the day. Yoga, breathwork, meditation, running, walk-
ing, you name it .All are valuable reset buttons for our nervous system and allow us to focus. 5. Nurture personal connections by meeting in person (socially-distanced) or virtually with people outside of work to enjoy coffee, tea, a meal and most importantly time. Connection can be a source of calm. Valerie Knopik is Yoga Medicine® Registered Therapeutic Specialist at Yoga Medicine. Visit www.yogamedicine.com for more information.
MR MAGAZINE AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2020
I know the benefit of exercise and need vitamin C and hence re-committed to at least 30 minutes of outdoor activity daily whether it be a walk with my fur baby or a run. My running partner(s) and I ran new trails and different paths and were able to vent and share and commiserate while finding the joy in the outdoors. In addition, I was able to give far more attention to my garden knowing it wouldn’t die as it typically does in the summer when I am not home to care for it due to trade show travel. I even added a few more bushes to my butterfly/bee garden and updated a few more beds than usual. What was a chore in early spring became a passion and distraction during tough days. We also purchased a few new feeders for our yard. We find the antics of the squirrels, the joy of the chipmunks and the bird hierarchy much more fun to watch than nightly news. I am not sure if I was more productive than before, but I know that I was far more optimistic than some of my peers and work mates because I insisted on going outside. It helped me find the courage to come to work every day and the confidence that change would bring about good new things.
2. Reduce distractions from social media and the like by turning off unnecessary notifications. These ‘pings’ tempt you to turn your attention elsewhere. Relatedly, limit the amount of time spent ‘doomscrolling’ social media during your workday.
3. Establish a routine by setting an alarm, getting ready for work (maybe even get out of your pj’s) and approaching your day as if you were going to the office. At the end of the day, have a routine that establishes your transition to personal time. Routines are important sources of comfort.
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PHOTOSHOOTS W E R E R E Q U I R E D M A K I N G O F T H I S F E AT U R E .
IN THE
I L L U S T R AT I O N S B Y M AT T H E W M I L L E R @ S U N F L O W E R M A N CONCEPT AND WORDS BY STEPHEN GARNER
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COVER YOUR FACE
MEN IN M AS KS FASHION FACE COVERINGS DRIVE A WHOLE NEW CATEGORY IN MEN’S APPAREL. BY JOHN RUSSEL JONES
As stores open up across the country, our industry is showing its trademark creativity by making and selling face masks. Although most consumers initially grabbed the ubiquitous pleated dust masks or tied jaunty—if inefficient—bandanas around their faces, it wasn’t long until customers were demanding something more effective, tasteful or statement-making to help prevent the spread of COVID-19.
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Samuelsohn
““NOW MASKS ARE A THING AND WE HAVE TO EMBRACE IT.” — LINDSAY MORTON GAISER ANSWERING THE CALL
solids and trend-driven prints, including denim-printed and tie-dye options, making it easy for shoppers to find a mask that fits their personal style.” “Flat face masks have been very popular with our customers and we think they will continue strong,” says Stephanie Muehlhausen, senior director at Macy’s fashion office, center core and beauty. “Our customers prefer multi-packs that offer variety, with prints, geometrics and animal patterns now being customer favorites. Black is the most popular solid, but we’ll continue to expand our assortment to inspire shoppers to showcase their individual style.”
they suggest a small/medium for women and a large/extra-large for men. Available on the brand’s website, as well as through
BRANDED INGENUITY “I never thought a mask would be a lifestyle item,” says Armah. “Mine are for a guy who wears suits and wants a lifestyle appropriate mask.” The acclaimed accessories designer creates his masks from pima cotton and also includes space for a replaceable filter. Each made-in-NYC mask comes with a matching pocket circle. “We sold 800 in a couple of days right after we launched them. Customers say it’s the best mask they’ve ever tried.” Beyond Andrisen Morton, Edward Armah masks are also carried at J3 Clothing in Cleveland and Drest by Scott Malouf in Lubbock, Texas. Lifestyle brand Faherty launched a pilot mask program in March with “explosive growth,” says Alex Faherty, CEO. “We’ve expanded our style offering significantly since then, as well as our partners. To meet demand, we’ve begun selling them through online retailers East Dane and Shopbop, as well as specialty stores like Stag Provisions, Darien Sport Shop, Oak Hall, and Trevor Furbay.” Faherty’s masks are priced at a consumer-friendly $10 retail and summer-weight styles in upcycled artisan fabrics and tie-dyes have been strong sellers. Denim maker Mavi utilizes a particular technique to stretch the material, and special stitching to ensure a secure fit around the nose. The mask is available in two sizes;
Edward Armah
MR MAGAZINE AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2020
Unsurprisingly, numerous menswear brands and retailers across the spectrum have responded to the call. In many cases, these companies weren’t even focused on making a profit; instead, making masks became about keeping workers employed, as well as donating any proceeds or a matching number of masks to charities, essential workers and others in need. “We decided at the beginning of the pandemic not to sell masks, but instead to make complimentary ones in our tailor shop for those in need of additional PPE (hospitals, nursing homes, etc.),” says Brad Sherman of Minneapolis-based retailer Hubert White. “We also made masks to give away to customers who visit the store. This has been a great thank you gift, as venturing out was, and still is, a dicey decision for many.” When Andrisen Morton in Denver closed during the initial COVID-19 lockdown phase, the store kept its tailor shop open, making 350 masks that were donated to Children’s Hospital of Colorado and the Denver Botanic Gardens. “We used fabrics from Hamilton and Emanuel Berg from our custom shirting programs,” says Lindsay Morton Gaiser. “It was an opportunity for us to do something charitable and it provided us with a sense of purpose.” When Denver’s stay-at-home order expired in early May, Andrisen Morton reopened and masks became a literal must-have item. “Now masks are a thing and we have to embrace it,” says Morton Gaiser. “People want comfort, but don’t want to look like surgeons. We sell masks from Edward Armah ($50 MSRP) and people love them. We’re selling them to both men and women: we can’t keep them in the store!” (Armah’s masks are also selling on the store’s recently launched online platform.) At Bloomingdale’s, face masks range from $15 to $40. “We have an assortment of unisex face masks from brands like Medipop, Echo and Sol & Selene, along with kids’ masks from Kid Dangerous,” says Joyce Packman, VP/DMM for handbags and seasonal accessories. “The curated selection features both
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COVER YOUR FACE Mavi
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Kane Menswear in Northern California and R&R Menswear in Palm Springs, they come in blue camo, animal, and bandana prints starting at $15 for a bundle of two, $20 for three, and $30 for five. When the pandemic first hit, Raleigh Denim’s Victor Lytvinenko recognized that he had the machines, fabrics, and staff to make masks, but didn’t know enough about PPE requirements. “We got in touch with Burlington Industries, who donated medical-grade fabric; three of our sewers made several hundred masks daily in our factory. For every mask sold, we’d donate two to frontline workers. We didn’t know what the future held for our business at that point, but we knew that if we were going down, we were doing down helping.” Lytvinenko also placed the brand’s mask pattern on the Raleigh Denim website so any home sewer could easily download it and make his own. Ruth Graves of S.T.E.P. USA is making hand-finished masks in Como, Italy. “I’m making a sophisticated mask, mainly in solids, from the finest fabrics. They’ll have removable inserts for extra protection, and coordinate with my new pocket squares. I’m focusing on guys who want a look of timeless elegance plus comfort.” Luxury tailored clothing maker Samuelsohn retooled its operations when the pandemic hit, making masks and other medical grade PPE for hospitals. Combining technical expertise with its apparel background, they created a product that’s both fashionable and functional. “We’re now approved as a medical supply company,” says Samuelsohn CEO Stephen Granovsky. “We had to learn a whole new business, from supply chain to people to costing. It’s been a complete education. We were able to build our fashion masks based on our resources in the cotton shirt business. My hat is off to everybody in our design department who made the effort.” The company’s masks include a pocket for an SMS filter (a spunbond polypropylene outer layer provides fluid resistance; a melt blown polypropylene middle layer offers germ filtration; and a spunbond inner layer allows moisture absorption and comfort). Beyond a snug fit for protection, the mask can be folded and used as a pocket square, showcasing upscale Egyptian cotton that’s woven in Italy. Sold with a matching fabric band that can be placed behind the head to relieve the pressure of elastic fasteners, these masks are available on the brand’s
New masks from ISKO Vital.
website at $50 for a two-pack. Not every company has gone the traditional route. The team at Raffi introduced Aqua Bands as a mask alternative. These soft tubes are made from the brand’s signature Aqua cotton, normally used for their knit shirts. “They feel amazing on the face, and are soft and breathable,” says Kareen Shaya. “They’re unisex and can be worn four ways: as a face covering, a neck band, a headband or bandanna (to keep long hair back for those who have not yet been back to the barber), or wrapped around the wrist for a wrist band. We started with four core colors and four prints from our Fall palette.” The brand is currently selling them on its website, but they’re also available to retailers. Best sellers, retailing at $15 each, are solid navy and charcoal, as well as floral and black prints.
PROMOTION IS KEY In municipalities requiring citizens to wear masks, the law should be all the promotion the
category needs, but some marketing even in those places does help. “We’ve given our sales team masks to wear,” says Morton Gaiser. “We have a mask mandate in Colorado, so when they wear them around town, we sell them.” However. for some consumers, the opportunity to make a charitable donation while buying a mask has proven to be the most apropos tactic. At Faherty, a group of Indigenous-designed prints help support
COVID-19 relief efforts in Native communities; Mavi donates a mask for each one purchased to Homes for the Homeless; and streetwear brand HUF donates a portion of proceeds to the Los Angeles Food Bank. Unfortunately, as infections spike and the world awaits a vaccine, masks are likely here to stay, at least for the next year. Kudos to our industry for designs that are both technically proficient and stylish!
A microgingham mask by Edward Armah
MR MAGAZINE AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2020
Mavi is selling masks by the bundle!
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AT HOME
QUARANTINE STYLE MR ASKED READERS TO NOMINATE INDUSTRY EXECS WITH FABULOUS ST YLE WHILE QUARANTINED AT HOME. OUR ADVISORY BOARD VOTED ON THREE WINNERS AND 12 RUNNERS-UP (OPPOSITE). HERE, THE TOP THREE TALK ABOUT WHAT THEY’RE WEARING TO WORK-AT-HOME THESE DAYS, AND HOW THE BUSINESS IS CHANGING. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
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ERIC JENNINGS, VICE PRESIDENT AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR, PEERLESS CLOTHING
I’M WEARING A TailoRed cotton/linen half-lined soft constructed three open patch pocket jacket. Under the coat, it’s an Eleventy cotton Johnny-collar retro polo shirt and five-pocket cotton jeans. On my feet, I’m wearing On Swiss-engineered sneakers, and on my wrist--a Shinola watch. As we work from home more and more going forward, men’s clothing will continue to shift towards comfort, performance, and functionality. Washability will become more important—even in tailored clothing—as we seek to keep our clothes clean and virus-free when stepping into our homes from the outside world. I see face masks continuing as the “must-have” accessory for the world, whether we’re dressing up or down. Keeping tailored clothing business afloat during this very tough time is all about adapting and innovating on all levels—whether it’s incorporating new technology to help sell digitally, or discovering new cutting-edge fabrics to provide more performance
features in our garments. As Gloria Gaynor once sang, “I Will Survive,” and so too will the men’s clothing industry! Companies that create and innovate will make changes that they should have made years ago. And those that are nimble and adaptable will come out of this pandemic even better than before. Personally, I’ve created a whole new morning routine to help keep me level-headed and focused every day. It includes a bit of meditation, breathwork, tapping, journaling, and then some exercise. It takes about an hour to an hour and a half, after which I feel incredible! I believe I’ve been more creative in the last several months than I’ve ever been.
“AS GLORIA GAYNOR ONCE SANG, ‘I WILL SURVIVE’ AND SO TOO WILL THE MEN’S CLOTHING INDUSTRY! COMPANIES THAT CREATE AND INNOVATE ARE MAKING CHANGES THEY SHOULD HAVE MADE YEARS AGO.”
“THE MOST IMPORTANT THING IS TO KEEP TRYING. DON’T GET DISCOURAGED. DON’T GIVE UP.”
2 I’M WEARING AN Isaia navy blazer, Eton white hidden button-down shirt, Neuw jeans, and Tods suede shoes. Dark navy and white always look great together on camera; the hidden button-down looks sharp without a tie. Getting properly dressed in the morning is kind of like making your bed: if you start off each day productively, it spills into everything else you do. My special assistant in the photo is Daisy, our 2 ½-year-old Goldendoodle. She keeps me company during hours of video calls (and sometimes joins in as a welcome distraction). Right now (and for the foreseeable future), dressing is all about the torso since most of our time is spent on video calls. I saw an immediate casualization from the get go (e.g. workout clothes, polos, etc.), but now, folks are dressing up a bit more, perhaps to find some feeling of “pre-pandemic normal.” There’s no doubt that businesses will heavily reduce in-person meetings and business travel after the pandemic since we’ve all learned
MR MAGAZINE AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2020
ERIK WILKINSON (AND DAISY), CHIEF SALES OFFICER, ETON
how much we can accomplish remotely. With this in mind, suits and ties will likely be relegated to formal and for those who love to wear them. I imagine the norm being creative new combinations (knitwear, vests, shirt jackets, woven shirts) for some degree of personal expression. At Eton, we’re talking to our retail partners more than ever since March. We’re working fast to adjust our business and support our retailers during these volatile times. We tested some things that worked and others that didn’t. But the most important thing is to keep trying. Don’t get discouraged. Don’t give up. We continue to invest heavily in the digitization of our business: our B2B software for replenishment and custom, our digital showroom to sell-in collection product, and our digital support to our wholesale customers so they have everything they need to be successful. Most of these retail partners are evolving their businesses to better support the changing needs of end consumers, who are quickly migrating to digital shopping and services. My crystal ball? Customers aren’t going away and their need to clothe themselves will not go away. However, the way we sell to them and the way men put themselves together in the morning is changing rapidly. We have a lot of smart, committed, enthusiastic professionals in our business (wholesale and retail) who will surely build a successful new roadmap during 2020 and 2021 to fulfill these changing needs. But again, it’s going to take grit and determination to power through this transformation. What’s helping me personally: I remember how important it is to stop and smell the roses. I feel so grateful each morning to wake up and be alive, surrounded by a healthy, loving family, with a great job in an industry I love.
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AT HOME
“I PREDICT, AS A NEW NORMAL UNFOLDS AND IT FEELS SAFE TO SOCIALIZE, MEN WILL REGAIN A DESIRE TO DRESS UP.”
3 DURAND GUION, GROUP VICE PRESIDENT OF THE FASHION OFFICE, MACY’S
IN THE EARLY days of the shutdown, I just wanted to feel comfortable, but as time progressed, the more fashion-forward items I used to love began calling me from the depths of my closet. Unfortunately, a large percentage of these items were not comfortable enough to wear while working long hours from home. Hoodies, however, are among the most comfortable and versatile wardrobe options so I chose this Spring/Summer 2020 Dries Van 48
Noten model mostly because of the intricate appliqué work. It felt like the perfect balance between dressing up and down at the same time. I think it’s too early to accurately predict what the future for men’s fashion will look like. I do think men will move more towards a buy-now, wear-now mentality. Potentially when the weather changes, guys will be motivated to shop and will start thinking through how their work-from-home wardrobes need to evolve. Regarding tailored clothing and dress furnishings, that business will depend on when formal events/gatherings start up again. I do predict, as a new normal unfolds and it feels safe to socialize, men will regain a desire to dress up, even if it’s only occasionally. I believe the most important thing any retailer can do today is listen to their customers and maintain some level of newness on the selling floor to continue engaging those men who are willing and able to shop. Retail and fashion are not going away: yes, the business will change but clearly it needed to, well before the pandemic. My personal mission during this difficult time is it to keep my mindset firmly focused on the present with a strategic nod to the future. The world has changed, lifestyles have changed, but we will get back to some level of normal. The fashion customer has not lost interest in fashion; if anything, he craves it now more than ever. As retailers, we need to make sure our assortments reflect excitement and joy, rather than the same old stuff.”
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STYLE SETTERS 1. Fred, DLS; 2. Jim and Rich, Woodbury Men’s Shop; 3. Raffi; 4. Andy, Pockets; 5. Sean, Corneliani; 6. Alan, John Craig; 7. Vince, Paisley & Gray; 8. Tom, Retail Czar; 9. Vinny, Marc N Vinny; 10. Rian, Triluxe; 11.
Marco, Eleventy; 12. Sid, Autumn Cashmere.
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PEOPLE
RACISM IN
MENSWEAR IT’S 2020: WHERE IS THE OUTRAGE? By Karen Alberg Grossman
A menswear exec from one of America’s top specialty stores recently asked MR to investigate the troubling topic of racism in our industry. A few months back, when the murder of George Floyd and Black Lives Matter protests began flooding the news broadcasts, a woman came into his store, asking to see product from Black designers or Black-owned companies. Perusing his selling floor, this merchant was embarrassed to acknowledge that in his vast menswear mix, there was just one Black designer. Just one!
The subject of racism in our industry is clearly too layered and complex to do it justice in a short feature, especially one written by a white writer who has not personally suffered the repeated humiliations brought on by racism. (These include, but are in no way limited to: being followed by security guards in upscale stores; sales associates checking with managers before 50
accepting your credit card; being stuck for years in assistant positions while less talented white colleagues get promoted; walking down an aisle on a plane as white women in their seats instinctively clutch their handbags; a warm introductory phone call changing to an icy in-person reception; being called the n-word; witnessing a major department store reject
ads with black models; and on and on…) In an attempt to begin a conversation that we hope MR readers will continue, we ask a few industry people of color to share their personal experiences with racism, and their suggestions for moving a bit closer to the diversity and social justice our industry, and our country, so desperately deserve.
JEFFREY BANKS, DESIGNER AND AUTHOR
in buying offices to dealing with customers on selling floors. Today, trainees spend all day in a cubicle looking at spread sheets. We’ve got lots of talented young people not being properly trained. We’re all entrenched in a system of institutionalized racism and the only way to change it is to talk about it. I don’t have the ultimate solution but I’m willing to talk about it and I’m optimistic that things will actually change. Just look at the diversity of protesters these past few months—across the country and around the world. Young, old, Black, Asian, Latino; in some cities, the protestors were mostly white! I believe people are really sick of the injustice and that we’re finally turning the tide. It’s no longer us vs. them; it’s all us.
MR MAGAZINE AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2020
ONE RACE-RELATED experience that’s stayed with me dates back to when I was 17. I’d just started working for Ralph Lauren who took a chance on me right out of high school. (We’d met when I was selling clothes at Britches of Georgetown in Washington, D.C.; I loved Ralph’s designs and sold a lot of them. We’d have great conversations about the history of men’s style.) At the time (August 1971), Ralph was just launching women’s fashion and wanted to get in with Stuart Kreisler, a women’s fashion mogul at 550 Seventh Avenue. So, Ralph sent me to 550 to check it out. It was a hot humid summer day and I was wearing black linen pants, Gucci loafers, Halston sunglasses, an open-collar shirt and a sportcoat. The elevator operator took one look at me and told me I’d have to use the freight elevator. I watched as other guys wearing open collar shirts got on the regular elevator and I realized for the first time that I was targeted because of my skin color. Why are there are so few designers of color in our industry? For one thing, it’s so difficult for Black designers to get financing. When I started out, applications for bank loans were coded with a C (for Colored). But it’s not always racism. I meet many young Black designers who are talented artists but don’t know the business side. Backers are looking for commercially salable product, not art. The buyer at Saks Fifth Avenue doesn’t care about race or gender, only whether or not the stuff will sell. In industry first needs to be cognizant of the a precarious economy, banks are nervous imbalance. Why aren’t more people like about backing unknowns of any color. Bill Gates getting involved to help diverse And who’s out there to teach these talented communities own businesses? A good young people how to run a business, how business model is Shinola in Detroit: with a to do a 5- to 10-year plan? depressed car industry, they figured out what I’m particularly proud of the CFDA else could be made in America and hired Incubator program that gives emerging people from the community designers free showroom/atelier needed jobs, training space for a year. Smart landlords “IT’S NO who them to be self-sufficient. recognize that this will bring Retailers also need to revamp income-bearing tenants down LONGER training programs. In the the road; we need more people early ‘70s, executive training, looking toward the future. US VS. although hard work for little And retailers need to step up to the plate: instead of knocking THEM…” pay, was a strong foundation for a retail career. Trainees off name designers, why not give were exposed to all aspects of young people a chance to shine. the job, from curating product To attain diversity, the fashion
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“IT’S UP TO US TO HOLD PEOPLE ACCOUNTABLE.”
SHARIFA MURDOCK CO-OWNER OF LIBER T Y FAIRS
AMONG THE WORST things I’ve endured as a Black woman in a corporate position: a company I once worked for hired an inexperienced person over me and expected me to train that person! This was done with no explanation, and when I questioned it, they called me a disgruntled employee. As the first Black woman to own a trade show (Sam Ben-Avraham gave me 52
that opportunity at Project years ago), I’m extremely proud of the diversity we continue to build here at Liberty. But for most Black women in business, climbing the corporate ladder is draining —always trying to avoid judgment, which is why I wanted to become an entrepreneur. One example: I’ve been wearing my hair in braids since the pandemic, something
I’d never do in a corporate situation since it’s perceived as ghetto. Black women have to work extremely hard to avoid being stereotyped. Unfortunately, prejudice is built into most corporate structures. There’s always an excuse so top executives don’t have to acknowledge it. It’s been going on so long that some don’t even realize they’re pre-judging. I’m hopeful that all the recent conversation surrounding social justice, police reform and Black Lives Matter will finally make a difference. Now that people are working from home and watching more news, they’re paying more attention. My fundamental hope is that people will no longer have a reason to be afraid. And at the end of the day, it’s up to us to lead the charge, to hold people accountable. I’m part of Black in Fashion, an organization advocating universal commitment to diversity so that all fashion companies ultimately become 15 percent Black. We’ve always had that commitment at Liberty: diversity is intrinsic to who we are. We don’t go out looking for Black designers but it happens organically because 1.) We’re always seeking new talent, and 2.) Black designers feel more comfortable in places where minorities are better represented. Most important: Black employees are not asking for handouts or special treatment; we’re just asking for equal treatment. May we continue to move in that direction.
GARY WILLIAMS OWNER OF GARY WILLIAMS SHOWROOM
LIZETTE CHIN
P R E S I D E N T O F M E N ’ S A T INFORMA MARKETS
so visceral in their souls as they watch videos of George Floyd being murdered or of the multi-cultural, multi-generational protests, they’re not human. I think most people know what’s right; it’s just that some are fearful, having spent their whole lives in a capsule without ever having a genuine relationship with a person of color. So, I remain optimistic, now more than ever. We’re finally having the kind of uncomfortable conversations that need to be had among people who value each other. Companies are suddenly calling me, asking for my advice on how they can promote diversity. My generation tiptoed around it; young people are charging though it. And I believe young people will make it happen. What should fashion companies be doing? Go where the talent is: SCAD, FIT, Parsons, RISD, Berkeley College, LIM. We’re not talking affirmative action hires: these are truly talented young people who will make your company stronger if given the opportunity. So, I say find them, hire them, empower them, or at least give them an internship. I’ve had 40-50 interns over the years and many have gone on to do fantastic things. Now is the time!
AFTER 4 0 0 YEARS of oppression, I totally support Black Lives Matter. Racial inequality and social injustice are problems that have always existed and need to be dealt with. Although I’m a woman of color, I identify more as Latina than Black and experienced minimal racism growing up in a multi-cultural neighborhood in Queens. I do remember as a young girl an incident of graffiti on our screen door. But I think it was more about my parents looking interracial (my dad dark-skinned, my mom fair) than it was anti-Black. In my career, I believe I’ve had more challenges as a woman than as a person of color. I’ve always tried to overcompensate, never allowing myself to assume that any setbacks were about race. I’ve always prided myself on being color-blind and that’s how I raised my kids. But in retrospect, I wish
I’d paid more attention to race: noticing it, respecting it, honoring it, learning from it, asking questions rather than pretending we’re all on a level playing field. Because we’re not. At Informa, we’ve started conversations with our Black executives and we’ve established a committee to affect change: Informa Markets Fashion for Change. We believe that small changes can have big impact. We believe in spotlighting Black talent via incubator programs, and in hiring more diverse creative talent. Our ambition is to work with educational institutions that have a large minority enrollment to provide talented students a gateway to the fashion industry. But, bottom line, the best way to affect change in our industry is to educate and collaborate, to have those uncomfortable conversations, to listen and respond.
“MY GENERATION TIPTOED AROUND IT; YOUNG PEOPLE ARE CHARGING THOUGH IT.”
MR MAGAZINE AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2020
OUR INDUSTRY IS no better or no worse than others. Like most African Americans in our country, I’ve experienced my share of racism: both overt actions and those little micro-aggressions that affect us nonetheless. At my first wholesale management position in the fashion industry, I was hired to head men’s sales. I worked really hard and was successful forming relationships with some great stores: Fred Segal, Murray’s Toggery, The Rogue, Shaia’s, Barneys New York. It was going so well until the day that I was suddenly demoted: I was told that certain southern retailers might be ‘uncomfortable’ working with me, that
they’d prefer a ‘good ole boy’… It was the late ‘80s and there were very few people of color in the business; I had no Black mentors to advise me. It was a bitter pill and I was devastated but I had to accept it: the underlying message was that I should be grateful just to have a job there. After that, there were the typical humiliations: I’d be setting up my booth at MAGIC and people would assume I was a workman, not a sales manager. Or I’d make a showroom appointment over the phone and upon meeting face-to-face, the buyer would be shocked and clearly uncomfortable to be working with a Black man. Among people of color, we call it a ‘seen-us’ problem… This happens so often in business that we become extremely adept at reading the cues and putting people at ease. In a sense, we have to become the adult in the relationship. (And as it’s been said: the best revenge is to sell them!) I’ve a lways been an optimist in my core: I believe in people, I believe in America. And I believe that this moment that we’re in will be a turning point. They say you have to hit bottom to create change; if this isn’t bottom, I don’t know what is. If people aren’t feeling something
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EDWARD ARMAH DESIGNER
EDWINA KULEGO
VICE PRESIDENT OF LIBER T Y FAIRS
THE BIGGEST ISSUE Black employees face is the uneven playing field, and the fact that systemic racism is not more widely acknowledged. I don’t think people who are not Black can understand what we go through every single day. As for upward mobility, Black employees are told to be grateful for where we are, as we watch peers with lesser skills get praised and promoted. I’ve seen very talented Black employees stay in assistant positions for years. In my exit interview at a company I worked for, I pointed out that they have many brilliant, talented, motivated Black employees who haven’t been promoted in ages. Fortunately, people are more vocal now, more willing to call out companies for racial profiling. They’re demanding accountability: in hiring practices, in decision-making. How companies handle this will affect their brand image, and their revenue. It’s ironic: Fashion is such a diverse industry and Black culture is such an important part of it. How can brands reflect diversity if no one is flagging racial stereotypes, if the decision makers all look the same, if their advertising reflects insensitivity. H&M, Balenciaga, Gucci, Prada, all have made racially offensive marketing faux-pas lately. If there’d been a Black person on their executive team, this would not have happened. Why is no one paying attention? 54
OF COURSE, THERE’S racism in our industry but it’s so pervasive that many are blind to it. Like others from my country (Ghana), I came to the U.S. to work, having no idea how tough it would be. I started my men’s accessory business 11 years ago and suddenly found myself dealing with all white mills, all white banks, all white retailers. While I’ve made many wonderful friends in our industry over the years, I’ve also put up with much hurtful treatment and I often question why I stayed. But I don’t want to give up: I can’t disappoint my kids. I’m not sure I care to recall all the humiliations I’ve experienced over the years, but here are a few. A buyer from the south who I thought was my friend (we haven’t spoken in years) once said to me, “Edward, you’re different. You’re the only black person I can call my (n-word)…” A store owner in the south once told me, after I travelled across the country to personally present my collection, “Your neckwear is beautiful but I’ve never bought anything from a Black man and I’m not starting today!” A different southern retailer asked me if
I work with Minister Farrakhan. I was once driving in the Midwest with a bunch of menswear reps on our way to a trunk show. I’d taken the first morning flight from Newark airport and, totally exhausted, fell asleep in the car. So, we’re driving from the airport to the store and I’m sleeping in the car and they drive me to a corn plantation. They thought that was funny… For anything to change, white people have to be willing to listen. Some try, but how can they really feel our pain? I’m in more than 100 better specialty stores yet maybe 10 percent have me listed on their websites. You wonder why I’m the only Black designer at many trade shows? How many Black designers can afford $200,000 to build a business? The economic disparity between races is based on lack of opportunity, not lack of talent. There’s so much that needs to be fixed. Will our industry really open a diversity platform? Will companies seek out Black talent? Will we develop a
FIGHT FOR WHAT’S RIGHT By Manasseh Armah, age 10 When I sit and think, is life really fair? I sit in my chair and stare in mid-air. With thoughts that hurt to say out loud, Racism is a dark and scary cloud. It always happens out of notice, But people around us have been witness. Lies and words to make us feel better; Black people should back down no longer. Stand up for yourself and make a change, It’s never too late to rearrange. This has been my poem about racism: Fight for what’s right; every voice matters.
training structure with mentors? We’ve tolerated so much for so long and still I wonder: what kind of legacy will I leave for my children? A few suggestions: Let’s aim for more inclusion in our tradeshows, showrooms, buying offices, manufacturing, and media. Let’s select from an expanded talent pool for a more diversified industry. Let’s embrace change and make sure all parts of our industry reflect that change. Let’s keep the American dream a beacon of hope for all.
New! OCTOBER: THE HOLIDAY ISSUE Featuring
HOLIDAY INVENTORY GIFT GUIDE:
Let buyers know what you have inventory and that can ship immediately to accommodate holiday sales. The featured product will be included in MR’s buyers box.
LOOKING INTO 2021: HERE’S YOUR CHANCE TO TELL YOUR BRAND’S STORY CONTACT SHAE MARCUS : 856.797.2227 | shae.marcus@wainscotmedia.com
TA I L O R E D C L O T H I N G
Boglioli
WE’RE STILL
STaNDiNG W H I L E S O M E I N S I S T TAI LOR E D C LOTHI N G I S D E A D , S M A RT M E RC H A N TS A R E D O U B L I N G D O W N O N C L O T H I N G B U S I N E S S , O N E O F F E W C AT E G O R I E S T H AT DR I V ES CUSTOME RS I N T O PHYSICAL STORES. BY JOHN RUSSEL JONES 56
IN EARLY AUGUST, The Wall Street Journal’s Jacob Gallagher tweeted, “I have been leery of ‘the suit is really dead this time’ takes, but there’s no denying that three of the last big clothing retailers to declare bankruptcy—J. Crew, Brooks Brothers and now Men’s Wearhouse—were all built (at least in part) on approachable men’s suiting.” He goes on to say that suits will always have a certain niche market, but that men who buy one suit for isolated occasions can’t sustain business for an entire industry. That’s a pretty big statement coming from a staffer of a newspaper whose financial industry readers defined the look of the post-war high-powered executive in a classic suit. Like so many businesses, tailored clothing has been hit hard by the pandemic as consumers were forced to work from home and opportunities to wear suits disappeared as fast as toilet paper inventories. Consider the numbers: In better specialty stores, tailored clothing for fall ‘20 is planned down about 50 percent, but retailers are hopeful that goods will be available if business picks up. While spring ‘21 plans look positive on paper (double the volume of a disastrous spring ‘20), this is still down about 25 percent from spring ‘19. Still, even as we adjust to a new COVID-centric life, rumors of the suit’s demise seem once again greatly exaggerated.
TAILORED CLOTHING VS. SPORTSWEAR
E l eve n t y
MR MAGAZINE AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2020
As the world hunkered down, many consumers adopted sweats as their work uniform. For some, however, video conferencing apps like Zoom or Google Meet have inspired a vestige of professional attire. At 155-year-old Kositchek’s, located in Lansing, Michigan one block from the state capital building, David Kositchek speaks candidly about business prospects. “Downtown is aching,” he confides. “There’s nobody down here. I hate to say it’s a ghost town, but the lawyers and lobbyists we used to depend on aren’t around. Still, we’ve been able to maintain some traffic, because we’re known in the area for tailored clothing; it’s always been our backbone. I feel it opening up: we’re selling a lot of soft sportcoats to wear with jeans.” Frank Tatta of Jack & Jill Menswear in West Virginia feels fortunate that men are replenishing their sportswear wardrobes, adding of course that “I have to sell a dozen Peter Millar polos to make up for one suit.” Sportswear has also been the lead category for Dana Katz at Miltons The Store for Men in Massachusetts. “Tailored clothing
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has always been an important part of our business, but the wear to work portion of it has gone away. The demand is now ancillary so we’ve adjusted our fall ’20 receipts and are looking for spring ’21.” “Obviously, occasion-based dressing has been affected by recent events but our customer is still shopping in every category,” says Matthew Sebra, men’s fashion director at Macy’s. “We see less structured silhouettes and bold color as two key foundations to tailoring in spring ’21. Our customer might not have as many opportunities to wear tailored clothing as he did six months ago, but he hasn’t given up on wanting newness in this part of his wardrobe.” We spoke to John Tighe shortly before his exit from Peerless. “When people get back to work there will be a resurgence of tailored clothing, because guys will want to dress up again, just as they did after the recession in 2008. It’s always about trend and countertrend. Men will want to look sharp. Stores are getting rid of old merchandise and are bringing in fresh fashion.”
OPPORTUNITIES Jim Ockert of Khakis in Carmel remains focused on soft clothing like Boglioli and Eleventy. “We’re a resort town, so a lot of what we sell is pretty casual already. We’re showing soft coats with technical pants in five-pocket models. We spent the last year developing our own brand in Naples to present a clear identity for our Khakis’ sportcoat.” Ockert has been championing his store’s vision of tailored clothing with engaging Instagram TV posts. “Looking forward, tailoring is not going away but it will have to adapt to meet the new expectations of the customer who wants something lighter-weight, less structured, and more relaxed without sacrificing any of the polish,” adds Sebra. Tighe notes that before the pandemic, dress trousers were outperforming other 58
Gladson
SPECIAL OCCASION DRESSING Soft casual clothing has its place, but there’s no substitute for a great suit when it comes to wedding and funerals. As Katz says, “Not to make light of it, but recent clothing business reflects that movie Three Weddings and a Funeral. Events may be smaller, but people still want to dress for life’s special occasions.” “Young people are still getting married,” agrees Kositcheck. “Men still come to us to
get suits for weddings and funerals.” Beyond life occasions, Macy’s is prepared for the holiday season. “The holiday party season could look very different this year but we don’t think people will abandon dressing up,” says Sebra. “In many cases, this will be their first opportunity to do so and we have them covered with festive plaids, rich velvet sportscoats, even some satin and shine.”
CUSTOM SOLUTIONS “Off the rack suits are definitely not selling the way they used to,” says Derring. “The one bright spot is custom, which has kept our stores alive for ten years. It’s helped them survive, even in this pandemic. Many retailers reported that custom orders originally placed in January through March were delivered when stores reopened in June, providing a badly-needed infusion of cash. People who have big meetings and special occasions seem willing to spend a little more for something special. These days, they can get a domestic custom suit for $695 to $795 from places like Suitsupply, Indochino, or Atelier Munro.” Many made-to-measure specialists are not unhappy with current business. Nick Hansen of Nicholas Joseph in Chicago says that while April and May were soft, now it’s like the pandemic never happened. “June was about even,” he says. “Even though people may have pushed off wedding plans, and there are fewer people in the wedding, clients still want the day to be special. If anything, we may be getting a bigger piece of the pie since people are not spending as much money on the wedding itself. The way they’re going to share the experience is through all those pictures, so there’s even more emphasis on looking great. We usually sell a suit or tux for the wedding day itself and another outfit for the rehearsal dinner. If it’s a gay wedding, it’s times two!” Of course, even custom is being influenced by the quest for comfort. Says Gladson CEO Michael Solomon, “Even before Corona virus, we had outstanding results with our new Flex Sport collection featuring Italian stretch wool and cotton. It makes a lot of sense for custom clothiers who are struggling to find less formal fabrics. Overall, clothiers today need to find new ways to pick up the slack from dwindling suit sales and performance fabrics seem to be the right fit.” Hansen (a Gladson customer) is seeing lots of interest in five-pocket custom trousers in stretch materials, as well as custom
“EVENTS MAY BE SMALLER, BUT PEOPLE STILL WANT TO DRESS FOR LIFE’S SPECIAL OCCASIONS.” DA NA K AT Z , M I LT O N S THE STORE FOR MEN polos with a vintage look. “We’ve been doing unstructured sportcoats for working from home or for socially-distanced dinners at the country club. People go out so rarely these days that when they do, they want to dress up like it’s a special occasion.” Hansen is also fitting customers remotely. “We have a measurement app, and our staff has also gotten comfortable with doing fittings remotely. Now that everybody has embraced video conferencing, they’re less camera-shy. We can easily do tweaks to a garment with a virtual fitting.” Says Steve Knorsch of Cad & The Dandy USA (another Gladson client), “We see a trend toward more separates: jacket and trouser combinations and shirts instead of more formal suits. For several years now, we’ve seen demand for softer fits, more natural and relaxed. But gentlemen still order special pieces for formal occasions – suits in limited edition fabrics, tuxedos, morning suits, even white tie for weddings and luxury outerwear in exclusive cloths and silhouettes. ‘Buy less but better’ is today’s mantra.”
BOTTOM LINE While no one’s expecting business as usual for some time to come, there are clear opportunities to sell tailored clothing. Focus on styles that are soft, comfortable, less structured. Include a selection of “wow” sportcoats. Maintain a core of opening price suits from a vendor with a strong in-stock program. And remember that made-tomeasure is a growing opportunity for stores to do more business with less inventory and virtually no markdowns.
MR MAGAZINE AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2020
categories. “But stretch has been moving into everything, so customers have new expectations of tailored clothing. We’ll see more soft performance fabrics and unconstructed garments. It’s a trend that makes a lot of sense for customers who want a more relaxed life. I also think that washable suits are going to take off as a reaction to COVID.” Fred Derring from DLS notes that his better specialty store group stands to gain market share from recently-closed tailored chains and department stores. “Customers say ‘I’ve always wanted to shop here, but couldn’t afford it. I need a suit: can help me out with the price?’ Stores that stock well-made off-shore product that offers a higher margin are selling suits for $395 or $495 and still making money.” Bruce Levitt from Mur-lee’s on Long Island is adamant about doubling down on tailored clothing. “It will be a challenge,” he admits, “but I’m sensing my customers want to dress up again, not for every day but for important meetings and special occasions. Yes, we’re selling a lot of shorts and t-shirts but I believe clothing stores need to remain clothing stores to stay in business. Attorneys and investment guys who love clothing want fresh new fashion merchandise, not boring basics. I plan to continue live communicating with my customers on facebook and Instagram, playing up the fabulous clothing we’re bringing in for fall and spring.”
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SPOTLIG
Sunspel 60
GHT WILL THE TREND OF LOOKING GREAT FROM THE WAIST UP CONTINUE TO IMPACT THE SPORTSWEAR INDUSTRY? this moment, it’s definitely true. Luxury won’t necessarily mean unnecessary logos or outlandish silhouettes. It will mean all-occasion, well-made classics will be the most essential parts of an assortment.” And in the short term, Fisher says that cozy, comfortable classics that are tried-and-true will continue to be an essential part of any men’s assortment. “As fewer consumers than expected are going back into an actual office, we 04561 think what will have the highest sell-thru will be casual and basics-driven,” he says. For brands like L.A.-based fashion brand Vince, that’s music to their ears. “Vince is known for its comfortable, luxurious, classic clothes that you want to live in,” says Patrik Ervell, vice president of men’s design at Vince. “As a brand, we’re actually very well suited for this moment. I think the demand for well-made, comfortable luxury in menswear will only grow.” But, Fisher notes that all is not lost for the return of suiting. “Later this year or early next year, as life returns to normal, we are
forecasting a major return to dressing up,” adds Fisher. “People will crave the extravagance of occasion dressing, whether it’s for cocktails, weekend brunch, or going into the office. Suits, sportcoats, and dress furnishings will have a really nice re-emergence in importance at that time. People will be a little tired of around-the-house clothes, and even more than that, in the middle of an economic downturn and depressed job market, men will need to stand out from tk the crowd of tie-dye hoodies and joggers.” And, in the meantime, some brands are
MR MAGAZINE AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2020
LET’S BE HONEST. We never thought in 2020 we’d all be working from home and leaving our suits hanging in the closet. With the sudden inundation of Zoom meetings and virtual hangouts, consumer’s need for tailored clothing has shrunk in the short term, which, in turn, caused the demand for smart-looking sportswear to rise. This is partly due to the fact that work dress codes have radically altered during the pandemic. According to a July poll from market research group NPD, only 10 percent of people get dressed for working from home at the start of the day and then change into comfortable clothes later. Interestingly, the trend of conducting business virtually has created a hot new menswear item – “the Zoom shirt.” According to Urban Dictionary this is the “shirt or blouse that’s kept on the back of your desk chair to quickly be presentable for video conferences.” A recent poll by LinkedIn found that 42 percent of camera-ready home workers owned one. This phenomenon comes to light as the pandemic has shifted people’s ideas about what to wear while on video calls, with a focus on simplicity and pared down wardrobes. Our social media-driven need to impress via our “outfit of the day” is no longer relevant in this new normal. Michael Fisher, vice president and creative director of menswear at trend forecasting agency Fashion Snoops, says that right now “there’s a whole new appreciation for the mundane, things that are essential. There will be a major focus on ‘less, but better’ in the market. I know it seems cliché to say that basics will drive the sportswear market, but at
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President’s
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pushing a mix of both sportswear and tailored clothing for spring 2021. In a recent in-person (and socially-distant) visit to the NYC showroom of Eleventy, USA brand president Geoff Schneiderman confided that his wholesale accounts have been leaning into this new way of mixing suiting or sportscoats with more casual pieces, something the brand has been doing since its inception. “I think now’s the time that retailers can encourage their customers that yes, you should be comfortable while working from home, but it’s okay to look nice while doing it. That’s where our soft coats and knits come into play.” Erick DeLeon, buyer at Minneapolis’ MartinPatrick3, sees the mixing of sportswear and tailored clothing becoming even more relevant as we move into next year. “While we are not buying into the hype that everyone is going to work from home forever, and suits are dead, we have been seeing a lot of movement in knits recently,” he says. “Going forward, I believe it’s about finding those versatile pieces that you can dress up and dress down. Guys are going to want to keep that comfort factor when they eventually return to the office.” Michael Burns, owner of M5 Showroom in New York, also agrees with this sentiment of dressing in a hybrid sort of way. “A majority of our customers who are buying spring 2021 right now are looking for polished sportswear items,” he tells us during a recent phone call. “Looking stylish and smart but feeling comfortable is our new normal.” Burns notes that among his brands in the showroom, Sunspel, Stone Island, Belstaff, 04651, and President’s are doing extremely well. “Belstaff’s brand extension into well-made sportswear has helped them tremendously this season: a lot of buyers have bought over budget for this collection for spring ’21.” He also notes that Sunspel is having a better season than forecasted, mostly due to its sophisticated knits, and Stone Island is “killing it across the board, but especially its pants this season.” Lastly, Burns says that shorts have blown up, even more than a typical spring/summer season. “Expensive shorts are selling at no price resistance. We have models retailing anywhere from $165 to $450 that are knocking it out of the park. All and all, I’m thankful that we are having a great season.” Bottom line, while the look in luxury is elevated classics, don’t be afraid to get creative with your assortment. Add some color, add some unexpected pieces, and don’t give up hope on the return to dressing up.
“LATER THIS YEAR OR EARLY NEXT YEAR, AS LIFE RETURNS TO NORMAL, WE’RE FORECASTING A MAJOR RETURN TO DRESSING UP.” MICHAEL FISHER, VP OF MENSWEAR, FA S H I O N S N O O P S
MR MAGAZINE AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2020
Vince
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S A M S AYO @ s a m s a yo _
WiLd
INFLUENCERS IN THE
M R TA P P E D F O U R O F I T S I N F LU EN TI AL F R I EN DS T O S H O W U S T H E I R B E S T ST Y L I SH SU MME R F I TS . B Y S T E P H E N G A R N E R 64
STEVE GONZALEZ @ s t eve d j l a
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FRANKLIN MOSS @ q u i t e _ f ra n k
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ONEIL GARDNER @ t h e c r e a t i ve g e n t l e m a n
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MRQ
DYNAMIC
DUO
TWIN BROTHERS D E A N A N D D A N C A T E N A S T H E Y C E L E B R AT E T H E 2 5 T H A N N I V E R S A R Y M R C H AT S W I T H
OF THEIR LABEL,
DSquared2 is a family affair. Hailing from Willowdale Ontario, twin brothers Dean and Dan Caten moved to New York City in 1983 to attend the Parson’s School of Design, and eight years later, followed their dream to work in Italy, the birthplace of their father.
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DSQUARED2. BY STEPHEN GARNER
After collaborating with a diverse roster of luxury fashion brands, the brothers decided to launch their first men’s collection under the Dsquared2 label in 1995. This collection marked the debut of their theatrical and unique runway shows, combining fashion and music and capturing the attention of worldwide fashion press and buyers. Soon the designer duo started to expand the
business: in 2003 they presented their first women’s collection, in 2012 beachwear and underwear collections, in 2013 childrenswear collection and in 2006 perfumes and fragrances. Dsquared2’s defining philosophy is a fusion of contrasting themes, and draws inspiration from a mix of their Canadian roots, Italian tailoring, and all-out glamour.
The work hard / play hard motto expresses the dualism that is the essence of the brand: constantly creating new trends while never losing its playful soul. Dean and Dan’s creative vision also includes a view onto lifestyle and design with the opening of Ceresio 7 Pools and Restaurant in 2013. This space, that showcases the duo’s passion for design and art, is located on the rooftop of Dsquared2 Milan’s headquarters; it features outdoor pools and a terrace that allows guests to enjoy Italian fine cuisine surrounded by lush vegetation.
Building further on the Ceresio 7 brand in 2017, the debut of Ceresio 7 Gym & Spa, a contemporary fitness and beauty hub in Milan, as well as the Ceresio 7 Guest House, an exclusive, elegant and luxurious private space conceived for welcoming guests for special occasions. As the brothers celebrate DSquared2’s 25th anniversary this year, we caught up with Dean and Dan to chat about how their business has evolved, some of the challenges they’ve faced, and lessons they’ve learned along the way.
Q: What do you love most about running your own fashion company? A : We think the best part of owning and running Dsquared2 is that we get to wake up every morning and do what we love. We don’t take our careers lightly. We are very blessed to be able to create and share our vision with the world through the art of fashion. We obviously consider ourselves to be extremely creative but to have people acknowledge and accept your ideas and to make them their own is priceless! And then, we have the opportunity to do this together, as twin brothers.
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MRQ
Dean and Dan in 1966, photoshopped to have them wearing their DSquared2 logo tees.
DSquared2 celebrates its 25th birthday with a range of iconic styles featuring the logo, “D25.”
Q : What were some of the more difficult challenges you’ve faced?
A: We’ve had many challenges along the way. Even before starting Dsquared2 there were times when we felt like giving up but we were committed and passionate so nothing stopped us. We have always tried to be focused and positive. Maybe the most difficult thing was to come to Europe putting an ocean between us and our hometown, but we took the risk and worked harder and harder. We arrived in Italy where tradition, beauty, and heritage were so inspiring for us and for our work. Having a built-in best friend made it easier to push one another and to hold each other accountable in terms of pushing forward… our bond has always been the best asset! Challenges are merely just a bump in the road. Sticking it out, believing and having endurance is what breeds success, but trust us — it’s not easy! Q: What has been one of the major lessons
you’ve learned along the way?
A: Stay true to yourself. We remain true to ourselves in our brand’s DNA and you can see that reflected in our offerings. But, more importantly, we stay true to who we are as people, to us that’s what’s most important.
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Staying true, staying grounded. Being focused, work hard with effort but love at the same time — and we would say also have fun doing work — is very important for us. Q:What would you say are some of the major changes that’ve happened since launching the brand?
A: TIME! Everything is different. When we launched the brand never would we imagine that we would be here! Without a doubt the biggest change has been the influx of social media and how it truly drives the world and all facets of the business. The digital age is upon us now more than ever. Before you could say that we simply made clothes and prayed that the masses would love them. Now we have to yes design, but make sure that the narrative that represents the collections is also told in such a way that is receptive to all on all mediums. Q : What are some of your most favorite moments since launching the brand?
A: There are several moments for Dsquared2 and for our personal growth that we never forget and we are grateful for! I can name for example the collaboration with Madonna in 2000 for her “Don’t Tell Me” video and then when she wore Dsquared2 items for
her “Drowned World” tour in 2001 and also when Naomi decided to walk for our first women’s fashion show, this meant a lot for us! We have very good memories of the last 25 years, we worked with talented people who we really admire. We really do not regret anything because all the moments we passed through gave us the opportunity to be who we are and to improve ourselves and the brand. And we do not consider ourselves and our brand at the final level because there are still a lot of things to do and learn to improve and make everything better. Q: What’s some of the best advice you’ve received?
A: Keep going, don’t stop, don’t slow down… KEEP GOING! That one comes especially from our grandma; we never forget her words. That is definitely the best advice that we could also give to others. Follow your dream, do not give up even if it could be very difficult. Resolution, hard work and passion are the keys of everything. Love, putting love into your work! Q : What’s your goal for the brand in the next few years?
A: We want to continue to grow for the next years! We want to interact more with customers, by understanding them, supporting them, and speaking to them in more ways than just fashion. We want what we do to have a greater impact on the world as it is a time that we must all come together. The last few months have been hard on everyone including us. We want to continue to reflect our customers through our products but touch them with the essence of who we are. We are love and we want to share our love and our light with the world.
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LAST LOOK
DESIGNING FOR THE FUTURE A peek at post-Coronavirus menswear. WITH MASKS AND knits becoming staples in our 2020 wardrobes, we wanted to know, what does the future hold once Coronavirus fades away? To find out, we asked a few of our favorite designers what they think post-COVID menswear will look like, and the responses were fabulous. According to Baja East founder and creative director Scott Studenberg, crystal fringe headwear is in our future. “I’ve always been obsessed with off-duty glam, and there’s never been a better time for people to embrace their loose luxe fantasy,” he tells us. “Sweats don’t have to be sloppy and what’s chicer than keeping your face safe and covered with crystal fringe?” (Editors Note: We suggest wearing a mask in addition to the crystal fringe.) See more takes on post-COVID menswear online at mr-mag.com. *Sketch by Kim Mesches
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NW Buyers has announced that it will hold its August 2020 trade show in a virtual format. Spread throughout two weeks, the dates of the show will be Sunday, August 16th through Friday, August 21st, and Sunday, August 23rd through Friday, August 28th. Line presentations will be scheduled in hour-long live time slots. Recorded versions of the live presentations will be emailed to all members the day after the live presentation
OVER 300 RETAIL MEMBERS NATIONALLY. 200 OF THE NATIONS TOP RESOURCES. REGULAR AND B&T SIZES For more information contact Randy Hellman, Executive Director | 763-450-2000 | randy@nwbuyers.com WWW.NWBUYERS.COM
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