MR: Holiday 2020 by Wainscot Media

COMFORT & JOY HOLIDAY 2020 | ISSUE NO. 4 | VOL. 31

H O L I DAY 2 0 2 0

THE HOLIDAY ISSUE

SHOP. DISCOVER. LEARN. SEPT EMBER 1 - NOVEMBER 1, 2020 JOIN THE THOUSANDS OF BRANDS AND RETAILERS ALREADY CONNECTING AND CONDUCTING BUSINESS ON THE PROJECT DIGITAL TRADE EVENT. APPLY TO EXHIBIT OR ATTEND AT WWW.PROJECTFASHIONEVENTS.COM

@PROJECTSHOW #PROJECTSHOW

“With the cancellation of physical shows, retailers really needed an outlet to continue to conduct business efficiently. PROJECT’s Digital Trade Event makes so much sense during these times, and allows us to continue to see and work with all of the brands we expect to see at the shows each season.” - PETER HAURY, MEN’S BUYER, EAST DANE

“PROJECT’s partnership with NuORDER in launching a Digital Trade Event is an innovative way for us to navigate through these unprecedented times. With the cancellation of physical shows this year, this digital platform allows us to engage with our brand partners and discover new brands as well.” - ANTONIO GRAY, DMM, DTLR

“The challenges this year due to COVID-19 are unprecedented, but have forced all of us, as brands, retailers and suppliers, to rethink our way of doing business. When Informa Markets Fashion came to us with the digital trade event as an alternative to physical trade shows, we saw this as a no-brainer solution.” - SANDIA SIVILLI, VP GLOBAL SALES, DL1961

HOLIDAY 2020

CONTENTS

D E PA R T M E N T S 8 Editor’s Letter

42 Fashion

Fashion as a great escape.

Working from home just got cooler.

10 Guest Editorial

64 The Last Word

How to plan for a realistic holiday.

Joseph Abboud's roadmap for change.

F E AT U R E S

42 16

12 Inspiration From a Dreamer

24 What is Changing?

A human approach to business. Marketing guru Simon Graj shares his crystal ball. 38 Hanging Tough Retailers debate how to reignite suit business. 16 Emerging Brands

You Need to Know

Labels disrupting the monotony of the menswear field.

20 Suited for the Future

50 Retail's Holiday Sparkle What NYC majors are planning this season to attract consumers.

New visions of 56 PR Tips tailored clothing from Secrets on how brand's a new generation. can survive a pandemic.

MR (ISSN 1049-6726, USPS 7885) IS PUBLISHED FOUR TIMES A YEAR (JANUARY, FEBRUARY, JULY, AUGUST) MR MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED BY WAINSCOT MEDIA, 1 MAYNARD DRIVE, PARK RIDGE, NJ 07656. PERIODICALS POSTAGE PAID AT MAHWAH, NJ. AND AT ADDITIONAL MAILING OFFICES. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO MR MAGAZINE, 1 MAYNARD DRIVE, PARK RIDGE, NJ 07656. SUBSCRIPTION SERVICES: TO CHANGE AN ADDRESS OR REQUEST A SUBSCRIPTION, WRITE TO SUBSCRIPTIONS, MR MAGAZINE, 1 MAYNARD DRIVE, PARK RIDGE, NJ 07656; TELEPHONE: 201-573-5541. ADVERTISING INQUIRIES: CONTACT SHAE MARCUS AT 856.797.2227 OR SHAE.MARCUS@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM. COPYRIGHT © 2020 BY WAINSCOT MEDIA, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 31, ISSUE 4.

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THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY’S MAGAZINE

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E D I T O R᾿S L E T T E R

FASHION AS A G R E AT E SCA PE

IT’S MONTH 8 of the pandemic and with COVID-19 cases still rising and menswear business far from acceptable, many of us are increasingly depressed about the future. As one menswear VP from a prominent specialty store told me, “My job no longer involves any of the things I love: traveling the world to discover new collections, schmoozing with vendors and reps in showrooms and at trade shows, negotiating with vendors for great deals… Now, I’m shopping collections from a computer screen or line sheet, never seeing my brand partners, cancelling rather than placing orders. Clearly, the joy is gone…” Fortunately, there are optimists among us who view this pandemic as a perfect time to reinvent our businesses, to make the changes that needed to be made well before the virus hit. Read our reinvention round-up (page 24) to learn how top execs 8

are reassessing their businesses, and their lives, making changes that will ensure a brighter future for all. Also in this issue, some close-up analysis of tailored clothing business. Why bother, you might ask, since the category is virtually frozen. But based on our recent virtual panel with top clothing execs (page 38), the future will still include weddings, job interviews, class photos, proms and other celebrations (even if it’s more photo ops than banquets). Young guys are first learning the confidence boost that comes from putting on a great tailored piece that fits. And pent-up demand will surely kick in for men of all ages, once they view clothing that’s cool, comfortable, and sexy. (Speaking of which, take a look at the tailored designs created by recent FIT graduates, page 20.) Bottom line: don’t wait for a recovery to show something new! Also in this issue, our fashion director’s picks for the best looks of spring 2021, a preview of holiday happenings in NYC, tips for maximizing your PR efforts in a pandemic, a crystal ball forecast from marketing guru Simon Graj, and a guest editorial from retail consultant Steve Pruitt who is confident about a luxury store comeback. “Customers see upscale apparel stores as one of few places where they can go out, be safe, be a little social, and get excited about something totally unrelated to the news of the day. Fashion

is a great escape, and one we know we can get customers jazzed about.” I also love what National Retail Federation chief economist Jack Kleinhenz says about how tough it is to forecast business during a pandemic. “Completing a puzzle is highly probable given patience, having all the pieces and having a picture on the box to guide assembly. But it’s not the same when many of the pieces are missing.” Speaking of missing, I am greatly missing my many industry friends who I’m used to seeing regularly in showrooms and stores, at trade shows and events. May you all stay well, stay positive, stay in business, and God willing we’ll celebrate life together in the not-too-distant future.

“D ON’T WAIT FOR A RECOVERY TO SHOW SOMETHING NEW!”

GUEST EDITORIAL

PLANNING A REALISTIC

H O L I DAY How to clear the fog from your crystal ball. By Steve Pruitt

makes forecasts challenging, short-term trends and decades of buying patterns definitely tell a story. Based on what we see, we’re planning sales from November to December down by an average of 23 percent from 2019, when we saw single-digit gains for both months. The peak of the season will come late, since our better men’s

Steve Pruitt is founder of Blacks Consulting; he can be reached at 919-867-4802 or steve@blksretail.com.

MR MAGAZINE HOLIDAY 2020

GETTING YOUR HOLIDAY planning spot on is always important, given it represents such a big chunk of sales for the year. But this year, the glass on our crystal ball is getting pretty foggy. Not only are we in an election year, which always adds uncertainty, but we’re also in the middle of a pandemic and an economic recession. While all this

stores do not really engage in Black Friday promotions. That said, all the big department stores and specialty chains will be highly promotional. Don’t get caught up in the hype. What I’m hearing from clients is that customers see upscale apparel stores as one of the few places they can go out, be safe, be a little social, and get excited about something totally unrelated to the news of the day. Fashion is a great escape, and one we know we can get customers jazzed about. We expect knits, sweaters, and accessories to show the greatest growth potential, but you need to talk to your vendors now to make sure that you can land inventory throughout the season. Don’t wait for the off-priced buy because it might not come. I know most stores are already doing a great job working the phones, managing e-commerce, doing studio selling, and sending out style boxes. You know how to market this holiday season—the most important thing right now is planning how your inventory rolls in, and making sure that you have exactly what you need to hit a realistic sales plan. No one can afford to miss sales this holiday season due to lack of inventory, or land too much, leading to excessive markdowns. If you need help, I’m a phone call away.

C R A F T E D T H E O L D W AY I N I TA LY F O R Y O U R E V E R Y D AY M O M E N T S

lucafaloni.com

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MARKETING

INSPIR ATION FROM A

DREAMER

Graj & Gustavsen founder Simon Graj shares his crystal ball. By Karen Alberg Grossman

“CONNECTING the intrinsic DNA of a brand to the market opportunities of the future” is how Simon Graj describes the mission of the company he founded more than 30 years ago. “We’re known for taking legacy brands (Brooks Bros, Harley Davidson, Hurley, Timberland, Kohls’ private labels) and positioning them for the

future. I feel grateful that we’re involved in so many exciting projects at a time that offers more opportunity than ever.” Graj speaks about the unprecedented pace of change in our industry, accelerated of course by the pandemic. His bottom line on what retailers and brands need to do: create trust in an era of mistrust.

“The mistrust these days is rampant: of the government, of big corporations. A market that was all about conspicuous consumption is no longer that. People are realizing that they don’t need as much stuff. We want product that’s life-enhancing rather than status-enhancing.” The other big change, maintains Graj,

Cool projects include rebranding Capezio and a recipe app.

I N T H E W O R KS 1 A new e-commerce start-up for “the betterment of life”. 2 A recipe app. 3 Sustainable, biodegradable footwear. 4 An electric vehicle company that makes portable low-speed vehicles ($8,000-$15,000) 5 A cool sneaker collection based on the traditional bowling shoe. 6 A wellness brand founded by two female fitness gurus, backed by Tengram (Bill Sweedler and Russell Sternlicht). Products include collagen and protein.

7 Supima—a company Graj describes as “extraordinary,” doing business in a most ethical way, mindful of how to treat farmers, of how to grow and manage the business. 8 Capezio—the number one dance brand for 150 years, G&G is involved with new branding, partnerships, collaborations, licensing and creating gender-neutral product. 9 Rebranding Chester, Pennsylvania from an impoverished community to an up-andcoming one.

MR MAGAZINE HOLIDAY 2020

is smaller local brands challenging the corporate giants: microbreweries outselling Budweiser; Harry’s outselling Gillette. And herein lies the opportunity: creative companies with vision and risk-tolerance can easily rise to the top. Of course, it helps if the brand has a mission beyond simply selling stuff. And it helps if there’s some authenticity to the mission. Which is where G&G branding comes in. Recent projects include creating mission statements, marketing, advertising, partnerships and licensing for a diverse group of brands. Graj arrived in America at age 12 from his native Poland and grew up in 1960s Detroit. “I was the only white kid in my school and the only 12-year-old in a suit,” he recalls. “I was filled with memories of running from Communist persecution in Poland, of getting help from a social service organization in Detroit, of people forced to the back of the bus… It is these memories that make me truly appreciate our society finally moving toward social justice. I’m proud that so much of branding today centers on how to improve people’s lives. I’m excited when I think of the many charitable foundations created by business, and I’m thrilled that branding today is no longer just about selling stuff people don’t need...” Asked what he would do to enhance menswear retailing these days, Graj is thoughtful. “A physical store needs to provide a dynamically different experience. Of course, it must offer constant newness. But more than that, the store must somehow, via style directors or artificial intelligence, guide customers to clothing that reflects their personal DNA, that makes an individual statement. Rather than dictate, the store should guide customers so that they can discover themselves. Retailing is not just about theater; it’s not just about hugging. Today’s store should help me unmask who I am, free from protocol and rules. It should fulfill our eternal quest for identity, for who we are and how we want to present ourselves to the world.” Graj also believes that many traditional businesses will ultimately become co-ops or collectives, so that employees grow as managers rather than mere participants. “I feel fortunate to be part of creating this future, and fortunate that, after all these years, I still get to dream.”

LIVE BEYOND YOUR STORY

530 7TH AVE. SUITE 1403 NEW YORK, NY 10018

127 E. 9TH ST. SUITE 402 LOS ANGELES, CA 90015

A DVERTI S EMENT

HIG H- TEC H C USTOM MENS WEA R F R O M A M S T ER D A M Atelier Munro is the Amsterdam-based brand shaking things up in made to measure. On a mission “to change menswear for good”, the custom clothing brand is bringing high-tech to slow-fashion, making it even more ethical and accessible. They offer elevated clothing tailored to you and your style, crafted with quality fabrics from some of the most iconic mills in Europe. Every piece is sustainably made to order and delivered in an effortless experience with the kind of personal advice that is invaluable.

A O N E - O F-K I ND EX P ER I EN CE

MORE T HAN A CLOTHING RACK

The first step in creating a custom wardrobe with Atelier Munro is a

This kind of personal service and craftsmanship are key to the brand’s

visit to one of their stores to meet your personal Style Advisor. After

success, as is finding the right partners to bring the experience to

discussing what you need and the look you want, it’s time to get

life. It requires more than your usual hanging space. Instead, Atelier

measured. This is where the tailoring tradition and Atelier Munro’s

Munro seeks out retailers with the right people, knowledge, and

latest tech come together to set the brand apart. Once the style and

space. A shop corner with a desk is needed to house fabric samples

design details are decided under the guidance of a trusted advisor,

and a digital display for their Virtual Showroom, used to browse

all the data is processed and stored digitally. If you want to re-order

through the collection with the customers, save measurements, and

the same item in a different color later or need advice on an outfit

customize orders. Though this requires an initial investment, Atelier

for your important client meeting, you can simply send a Whatsapp

Munro’s on-demand model means their partners won’t have to pre-

message to your Style Advisor.

purchase any stock.

T H E F W 2 0 CO L L ECTI O N Alongside a 365 collection available year-round, Atelier Munro

While everything in the collection can be customized and made to

releases a seasonal collection each Spring/Summer and Fall/Winter.

order, the brand always carries a few ready-made pieces available in

Their latest collection draws inspiration from Amsterdam style,

store with sizing perfected for North American body types that will

featuring fine technical fabrics and comfortable wools to see you

require minimal, if any, alterations.

through fall and into winter. The range covers elevated essentials including jackets, chinos, jeans, and sneakers, as well as timeless

The latest FW20 collection is available in selected stores across

suits and formal black-tie. New this season: three coat styles that

North America, Europe, and South Korea. Find all the locations via

perfect the balance between winter function and sophistication.

the online store locator.

Starting retail on a suit is $798, the average is $1,100; sportcoats

For any questions or information on becoming a stockist,

range from $548-$900; starting retail for jeans $275; for chinos

email jasper@ateliermunro.com.

$215; for shirts $129; for shoes & sneakers: $350

AM_Advertorial_Mr-Mag_004.indd 1

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SPOTLIGHT

EMERGING BRANDS T H AT S H O U L D B E O N Y O U R

W E H I G H L I G H T A FEW OF OUR FAVORITE B R A N D S D I S R U P T I N G THE MONOTONY OF THE M E N S W E A R FIELD

HERE

THIS SEASON. BY STEPHEN GARNER 16

MR MAGAZINE HOLIDAY 2020

PROPAGANDA AGENCY Designer Jack Watkins sticks to his retro-modern roots with his newest collection. For spring ’21, we get a peek into his mother’s house, which served as the main inspiration this time around. “Growing up in the ’70s, our house was filled with all the colors you see throughout the collection,” he tells us. These colors include burnt oranges, yellows, and soft blues. Feeling the vibes yet? Watkins’ made-in-Peru collection features fantastic knit shirts and sweaters with just the right amount of ’70s flair. It makes us want to rewind the clock (even more than we’d already like to do)! Please be sure to check out his “booth” at the Project Digital trade show, online now until November 1st.

SPOTLIGHT

MNC ATELIER Creative director Peter Trainor is moving full steam ahead on his newest project, MNC Atelier. The label, which is available at Fred Segal and United Arrows, is Trainor’s latest venture after moving on from his most recent project – Max & Chester. Trainor has now hired an allstar team to help the brand grow here in the States and abroad. Zari Awodien, formerly of Saint Laurent and Issey Miyake, and Vincent Ehly, the former fashion director at Barneys and Maxfield, are eager to keep the momentum going. For spring/summer ’21 collection, Trainor sources luxury cottons from Japan and transforms them into garments that are perfect for quarantine – comfortable, but just dressy enough to where you don’t look sloppy. Highlights include the hand-painted floral camp shirts and the slightly oversized cotton suiting.

ONYRMRK This Los Angeles-based brand is entering its sophomore year with a focused line that’s concise and of the moment. In this collection, the brand’s founders Mark Kim and Rwang Pam are leaning into their best-selling oversized fits and refining them in new fabrications while beefing up detailing throughout the line. New for the brand this season is denim. From an oversized trucker, to a fresh look at overalls, these denim pieces are wearable and a new take on what mainstream denim brands are producing. Kim and Pam are also keeping their collection unisex, having seen success with both men and women being able to rock their slightly boxy, oversized silhouettes with ease. Don’t miss this collection – now live on the Project Digital trade show. 18

MR MAGAZINE HOLIDAY 2020

NEW IDEAS

SUITED

THE

FUTURE

N E W V I S I O N S O F TA I L O R E D C L O T H I N G F O R A N D B Y A N E W G E N E R AT I O N . BY

MARK-EVAN BLACKMAN is the former chair of FIT’s Menswear Design Program. This spring semester, his students were given a final project to execute during the pandemic. With luxury fabric provided by Vitale Barberis Canonico (distributed in the U.S. by Gladson), the students

FOR

KAREN

ALBERG

GROSSMAN

were challenged to use the tailoring skills they’d acquired at FIT (apparel design, pattern-making, tailoring, journaling, portfolio development and CAD expertise) to create innovative tailored garments, styles that their generation might embrace. According to Blackman, each collection evolved from

a deeply personal vision, reflecting each student’s individualized approach towards contemporary menswear design. The final designs were displayed for several weeks in September in the store windows of The Armoury’s Madison Avenue location. Says The Armoury founder and CEO Mark Cho, “Although we deal in a classic men’s look, we always welcome new ideas and talented creators to our field. We hope FIT’s graduates will continue to build on the design principles of classic menswear and take it into the future.” Blackman strongly believes that it is young people who will revitalize the tailored clothing business going forward. “Until the industry can convince younger people to regularly wear tailored garments as viable alternatives to denim, the market will continue in the direction it’s currently going. Proms and an occasional wedding aren’t enough to sustain market share. An infusion of younger customers is the best hope to regenerate interest in tailored clothing.” What follows, three FIT graduates share the inspiration for the looks they created, some staying classically tailored with a subtle twist, some combining classic tailoring with a streetwear sensibility, and others creating something altogether innovative. Due to COVID-19, the semester was completed at home, forcing several students to travel thousands of miles to finish their final project under less than ideal circumstances. Says Blackman, “Despite limited access to equipment, findings, trims and in some cases adequate sewing machines, these students were resolute in their desire to breathe life into their final looks. I couldn’t be more proud of them.”

First place winner; VBC will send him to Milan and then to tour their mills. MY COLLECTION IS inspired by military and workwear garments that were born from necessity. I took those pieces and reimagined them to offer an interpretation that feels contemporary. The single-breasted trench coat features clean cut lines, a concealed buttoned placket, and deep pockets with two points of entry. The wool provided by Vitale Barberis Canonico is a 21 Micron Covert Batavia that has a speckled finish and luxurious sheen. The compact weave also lends water-resistant properties to the trench coat. The pleated front trousers add a pop of pattern and brightness to the look. This collection was designed with comfort and versatility in mind because I believe thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s what the modern man is looking for in tailoring.

MR MAGAZINE HOLIDAY 2020

John Castera

NEW IDEAS

Calvin Padilla AS A MENSWEAR designer, I love to observe and absorb. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m inspired by everyday people who organically create trends. I see the modern man as an individual with fashion sense who is interested in comfort and individuality. I love to solve problems and elevate design through the use of hardware as well as combining tailoring techniques and utility with relaxed silhouettes. For my final project, I combined luxury fabrics with hardware normally used for urban fashion. I chose a slightly oversized silhouette, luxury fabrics and a monochromatic color scheme. My customer should feel like heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wearing something expensive and comfortable with the option of wearing the individual pieces as separates.

Emee Matthew I SPENT TIME in New Delhi equipped with my grandfather’s photographs from 1940’s which reflected the struggles of a nation trying to understand its own cultural identity. My grandfather was always dressed to the nines in a suit, the jacket always with Nehru collar, and shirts made from hand spun ‘khadi’ cotton. The bottoms alternated between trousers and the more traditional dhoti: a wrapped skirt. Somehow, this was a perfect blend of colonial tailoring and traditional draping. The old photographs and memorabilia of his youth inspired me to create a collection with clean lines and an occasional pleat or two. Vintage fabrics and a beautiful wool flannel from Vitale Barberis Canonico were used throughout the collection making each article of clothing a one-off piece. Embroidered tapes, antique silk sarees, a mix and match of woolen flannels and clean silhouettes all contributed to my collection, a tribute to familial nostalgia.

MR MAGAZINE HOLIDAY 2020

Read the full story at mr-mag.com where seven more FIT grads discuss the inspiration for their designs.

REINVENTION

WHAT CHANGING IS

H U M A N I S T I C A P P R O A C H TO I N C L U D E S VA L U E S BEYOND THE BOTTOM By Karen Alberg Grossman

T O D AY ’ S BUSINESS

LINE.

More than product, pricing, marketing or right-sizing, what’s most changed for menswear companies since the pandemic is a widespread reinvention of essential corporate values. These now include diversity, sustainability, philanthropy, ethical sourcing, social justice, and even work/life balance. Here, top execs from apparel companies big and small, public and private, retail and wholesale, U.S. and international, discuss how they’re creating a culture of caring in a newly diverse workplace that (theoretically) honors the viewpoints of all. At its best, it’s a humanistic approach to business with values that extend well beyond the bottom line. Kudos to the innovators!

CUCINELLI

FOUNDER, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI

IT SEEMS TO ME this new era, so unique in our lifetime, has taught us to look at the future in a slightly different way. Personally, in terms of the economic impact of the pandemic, I try not to be too influenced by the first six months of the year, considering this time as a “passage to a new era.” I

remain inspired by my great master Thomas More when he says, “Grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change, and the courage to change the things I can.” But there’s a recently repeated expression that I find unfortunate: “It’s like a war.” Instead, Creation is asking us for help in the

MR MAGAZINE HOLIDAY 2020

BRUNELLO

form of a debate between biology and the Earth. I often think of the great Xenophanes who declared that “Everything comes from earth.” I have no doubt that our industry will be more careful about where our goods are produced, how they are produced, and whether we’ve done harm to Creation. I believe businesses will return to life’s central theme of harmony and balance, of profit and giving back. Perhaps we’ll stop turning our backs on poverty and consider what we have in surplus as a kind of amiable resource for humanity. At this point, I’m proud to have led our company, which is now in full operation with its 2,024 employees, to pre-pandemic levels, always moving toward safer ground, always working with dedication. We’ve tried to transmit to our esteemed partners the importance of physical safety in the workplace and the need for courage, which requires both stability and flexibility. More than ever before, we need to be more considerate, more open to human needs, always mindful that when a person is frightened or grieving, he benefits most from compassion and friendship. We hope the great ideals of fair politics, spirituality, and family will find renewed vigor, and that we’ll all learn to utilize rather than consume what the earth offers us.

REINVENTION

N O R DST RO M PRESIDENT AND CHIEF BRAND OFFICER, NORDSTROM, INC.

THIS PANDEMIC HAS validated and accelerated several trends that have been evident for at least the last year or two. Clearly, there will be more business shifting to online. Before COVID happened, one 26

third of our business was done online. We were asked all the time by brand partners where we thought this would end up and we said probably 50/50 in a few years. Well, ‘a few years’ has become now. Even after reopening our stores, we’re doing at least 50 percent of our business online. This is the new normal, and a great opportunity for us to strategize and execute the business around a digital-first mindset. It creates lots of opportunity to grow the business as long as our infrastructure and processes enable growth. This kind of clarity and urgency has created operational and execution focus for us that we otherwise would not have had. How does this impact what we sell? We’re fortunate that we’re broad-based in terms of the items, categories and price points we offer. We’re now pivoting to the clear signals we receive from customer data around relevant categories/brands that our customers want to buy from

us. Things like casualization, comfort, athletic and more. This too has created urgency and focus. Flexibility and a customer-first mindset have never been more important. Diversity has been a pillar of our company’s culture forever: we’ve always believed that we must reflect the communities we serve. Anyone who wants to buy what we sell is someone we value and respect; whatever our customers care about, we care about. Staying grounded in this philosophy from a customer point of view enables us to evolve our merchandise offer to be relevant to a broad and diverse customer base. We want a diverse representation of people serving customers so that all customers can relate to our people and feel comfortable in our stores. We also believe in diversity up and down our internal employee pyramid. Just as we want great people of all ethnicities, genders, ages, etc. represented for our customers, employees too need to see people that look like themselves in all layers of management. This helps us attract talent from all walks of life and encourages them to bring their best authentic selves to the job every day. People do by far their best work if they’re aligned with their employer’s culture and know that they have equal opportunity for success and job promotions. We benefit greatly by the personal buy-in and goodwill we receive from our employees. It allows us to be customer service leaders. It makes embracing diversity a natural extension of our culture. Our stance on sustainability is somewhat similar: it’s the right thing to do and our customers care about it. I believe customers have always cared about saving the planet but only in the last few years has this really impacted their buying decisions. It’s literally become a merchandising imperative, moving way past trend to expectation. It’s what people, especially young people, expect from the brands they care about and the retailers they patronize. So it’s clear for us: if we want to attract and retain new and young customers, we must offer and embrace things that are important to them, like sustainability and ethical sourcing.

KENT G US H N E R

THIRD-GENER ATION OWNER, BOYDS PHILADELPHIA AFTER 83 YEARS in a single location in downtown Philadelphia, we’re venturing into the suburbs with a pop-up store we opened this month. I’d been considering a second location for some time but when the pandemic hit, I realized a suburban opportunity could mitigate our losses downtown, attracting both current clients uncomfortable coming into the city as well as new male and female shoppers. This pandemic is an important time to listen and learn: the new pop-up (8200 square feet) should give us insight into our future capacity for multiple stores. While our mix is now half men’s and half women’s, I project it will lean toward women’s as menswear sales have proven more challenging. As for e-commerce, I believe it will remain an important component of our business, but on its own will not save the day. Like everyone else we’re selling more casual, comfortable sportswear and leisure looks. We’re not selling suits, dress shirts or ties and until men start going back to the office, back to court, back to special events, we need to figure out other strategies. We needed to broaden our vision of new ways to transact business, be it e-commerce, virtual selling or pop-up locations. We’re working hard on this and remain optimistic. Bottom line, I don’t think we need a total reinvention of our business. The fundamentals are still valid and haven’t changed: luxury customers want curated assortments of the best and latest product out there, quality, value, and attentive service from professionals who know and care about them.

G RA N OVS KY CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER, LMAG

MR MAGAZINE HOLIDAY 2020

FOR ME, THIS YEAR has been a stunning story of our shared humanity played out every day in ways big and small as our organization and industry faced crushing challenges. On the one hand, we’re stronger than we’ve been in years; on the other, we’ve grieved three managers who passed (directly or indirectly) from this pandemic. I’ve never been more challenged by the present and scared of the future. Thankfully, I perform best when my back is against the wall. Others on our team have shown character and a work ethic I never thought possible. We always considered our organization to be entrepreneurial in spirit and action, but this year’s unimaginable events forced us to be more innovative and nimble than ever before. We pivoted early to new categories of business to keep our factory workers employed and drive revenue. We launched Samuelsohn Medical and now manufacture a lucrative PPE business alongside our luxury apparel. We have previewed, to very positive reviews, a hybrid tailored collection that addresses how we work now. We launched a direct-to-consumer business in record time for our Samuelsohn brand. We’re working faster, smarter and with greater innovation than ever before. We’ve restructured costs but with as few permanent layoffs as possible. The near future will bring little respite but as a man of faith, I’m convinced that our people, our community, and our industry will thrive again, and success will taste all the sweeter for our troubles.

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ERIK

W I L K I N SO N ETON

MARCO BA L DASSA R I CO-FOUNDER AND CEO, ELEVENTY WE’VE SUDDENLY STARTED to appreciate small things that used to be taken for granted: hugging a friend, sharing a pizza. Additionally, the shift to work-from-home has changed values and priorities in our daily lives. We expect consumers to prefer more of the casual and comfy looks, to buy less but pay more attention to the quality, comfort, and weight of the clothing. On top of that, we needed some shock to get back to sanity. I think that luxury fashion had become too fast. Fifteen days after the collection hits the stores, we feel the pressure to deliver a capsule collection. But luxury takes time! Luxury watches don’t lose their value for decades; the same should be true for other luxury categories. Sustainability plays a crucial role in our brand! We’re firmly committed to use only certain products. We’ve eliminated certain polluting chemicals that are not in line with our philosophy. At Eleventy, we use only natural dyes, despite their relative expense and limitations compared to synthetic dyes. We’re planning to open new stores in strategic markets like those already operating in Greenwich, and those planned in Palm Beach. We’re looking at Aspen and Palm Springs. In addition, we’re developing new strategic partnerships with stores that can introduce Eleventy to a completely new demographic, stores like Elyse Walker and Fred Segal, whose customers differ from those of the more classic luxury stores where Eleventy first had so much success. We’re also focused on increasing engagement with our store partners. Even if we cannot be together in person, we’ve found fun and entertaining ways to experience Eleventy product through virtual platforms. The results have been rewarding, both financially and emotionally. 28

AT ETON, WE’RE CREATING CONTENT to help our wholesale partners drive customer engagement and traffic: to their stores, to their websites, to their phones, etc. The links we’ve created basically lead the retailer directly to our B2B so they can order the product and to our mediabox where they can download our content for their website, social media, and eblasts to their customers. We try to make the content a direct “call to action” featuring: 1. An attractive image photo; 2. Three key USPs for the sales pitch; and 3. Enough supporting photos and product info to get the customer to say yes. We’ve come to realize that no amount of payment dating, price discounts, and on-order cancellations is going to give our retail partners what they really need – and that is traffic. The late great Mr. Derrill Osborn used to tell me all the time, “Erik, there’s no challenge so great that increased sales can’t bail you out.” So that’s what we’re trying to help our wholesale customers deliver. We’ll be offering this compelling content at least monthly for the foreseeable future. We’re also launching an even larger ‘dressing-in-theage-of-Covid’ campaign this month.

“STAFF REDUCTIONS HAVE BEEN PAINFUL, FORCING SHARED RESPONSIBILITIES ACROSS WHOLESALE, RETAIL AND E-COMMERCE.”

S H AY P R E S I D E N T, I S A I A CHANGES THAT FEEL meaningful in the time of COVID-19: It was great to see so many in our industry rally in support of the community and shift to producing valuable PPE equipment. It has been difficult to see our industry suffer. Staff reductions, threatening financial uncertainties in the market, and supply side challenges magnify the immense change brought on by COVID-19. But change is an opportunity. Pre-Coro-

navirus strategies are taking on hyper importance. We’re focused on expanding direct-to-consumer channels, especially e-commerce, and identifying top tier properties to bring the full brand experience to new locations. Wholesale reductions will be to ensure the focus stores have the service they need to maximize the partnership. We’re bringing more product categories in-house to diversify the offering in a way that reflects the brand quality standards

and to keep more internal control. Staff reductions have been very painful, forcing the timing of omni-channel staffing where responsibilities expand across wholesale, retail and e-commerce. An important resolution for our Isaia team: decision making that enhances enjoyment for the industry. Our goal is to ensure our partners, collaborators and clients all take pleasure in the Isaia experience.

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JAMES

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ANDREW B E RG

P R E S I D E N T, R O B E R T G R A H A M AT ROBERT GRAHAM, we’ve taken this opportunity to accelerate a few initiatives. First and foremost is always product. We’re expanding categories to speak to ongoing macro trends including leisure, lounge, performance and golf lifestyle. We recognize women’s fashion remains a big opportunity for us. We’re pursuing both domestic and global opportunities for women’s and we’re finding newer ways

C H I R I CO CEO, PVH THE CURRENT REALITY of COVID19 and the resulting business challenges have affected every aspect of the apparel industry, and required us to be agile in our approach as we navigate the road ahead. Yet we have not lost sight of our purpose: to drive fashion forward–for good. At PVH, we remain committed 30

to our long-term strategy and our work to prioritize climate action, build tighter, more resilient supply chains, uphold human rights, fight for social justice, and deliver more sustainable products to our consumers. While the apparel industry will be uniquely transformed post-pandemic, we have many opportunities to build back better than before. From furthering transparency in where and how products are made, to leveraging digitalization and the power of data, to increasing our reporting and disclosure to drive more sustainable and inclusive choices, and hold ourselves accountable. On product, we’ve leaned into the casual nature of both the Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger businesses, particularly our men’s underwear, jeans and active sportswear. We’re focused on our core essentials and chasing inventories to support all our channels, but especially our digital. We’re evolving our dress shirt, tie, and suiting businesses, about 4 percent of our total–toward consumer demand for comfort.

RAFFI S H AYA RAFFI OUR TAKEAWAY LESSON is that life is unpredictable. We need to accept the reality that it won’t always be as we plan, and figure out how to move forward, adapt and adjust ourselves to a new reality. In so doing, we can work on our well-being by having a positive mindset, keeping ourselves healthy, thinking healthy, acting healthy and staying healthy! We’re staying close to our buyers and retail market by supporting one another emotionally, mentally and professionally to generate business together. Most important is that we stay all connected, all in this together, and all here for one another.

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MANNY

to build this category. We’re continuing with our brand collaborations and partners including renowned artists, Marvel, and rock bands (Def Leppard, Motley Crue and Kiss for spring ‘21). We’ve taken a strong look at our E-com and Marketing and have a robust playbook that includes optimizing our digital advertising programs, testing personalization on our site to hone in on relevant messaging, continuing PR support and influencer strategies, and using direct mail and digital content in new formats. Clearly, inventory management and a disciplined approach to on-order for future seasons are critical (mitigating risk, investing in key/hero styles we believe in). To accomplish this, we continue to communicate better and get closer to customers to understand their needs and to be better partners in real time. Personally, like most industry execs, I’ve had to recalibrate my work/home lifestyle, finding ways to nourish both sides with patience, communication and boundary setting. Finally, we at Robert Graham are working on ways to incorporate social cause marketing, sustainability and diversity into our brand DNA.

REINVENTION

DOUG RA I C E K

EVP PEERLESS INTERNATIONAL

FA H E RT Y &

AS DEMAND FOR tailored clothing has slowed, we’re leaning into new products that reflect people’s shifting needs; for example, hybrid pieces straddling traditional tailoring and sportswear comfortable enough to be worn from the couch to the office. We remain committed to our core, but are seeing strong interest in this area taking performance and comfort to new levels. We also recently announced a joint venture with Montee Holland’s Tayion Collection, which is the first time we’re working as just the back end for a new designer. We felt that Montee has a great product catering to an underserved customer in the department store world; we saw a great opportunity to work together to broaden his reach. 32

D O C H E RT Y FAHER T Y BR AND

EXPANDING THE SCOPE of our Indigenous partnerships in the months and years ahead is key. When we first started producing Indigenous-inspired prints, we didn’t realize we needed to make a real commitment to the people who inspired them. Now, we’re proud to support Lakota Way Healing Center with every Indigenous-inspired piece we sell– and we’re even more excited to be partnering with

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ALEX KERRY

Indigenous designers on future patterns. As part of those efforts, we also aim to use our platform to honor and amplify Indigenous voices whenever we can. Connected to that, our community is key. The people who support us, from our partners to our customers to our team members, make Faherty what it is – and it’s part of why we’re so passionate about our stores. Retail is far from dead; more than ever before, now’s the time to be focusing on small locations that can serve as local hubs for good service with a smile (behind a mask!) In fact, we’re seeing much success in our stores outside major cities right now, which seems to suggest people are craving those individual, face-to-face interactions. We’re also getting really intentional around our collections, in terms of both design and inventory. Our guiding motto is to do more with less–hyper-curated seasonal collections, leaning into our core products, paring down our SKUs, re-focusing on quality, performance, and comfort. By focusing on those things and utilizing all of our channels (wholesale, retail, ecommerce) in a thoughtful, balanced way, we hope to be ready for whatever may come our way in the future.

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S EG E L

MR. SID, BOSTON AND NEWTON CENTRE, MA

DURING THESE UNCERTAIN times, we’ve been reflecting on how to move forward in ways that will make us stronger, more impactful, and more united than ever. We’ve spent 53 years building the Mr. Sid community based on diversity, inclusion, acceptance, and family. We believe that leading by example, strengthening our relationships within the company (with 34

me in photo: Khoa Dang, one of our talented tailors who’s been with us for 15 years) and the industry, and remaining steadfast in our values are the best ways for us to respond to current challenges. We’ve taken multiple initiatives to increase our responsibility to the betterment of the environment and to the lives of the skilled workers who make the garments

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STUART

that we carry. Some of these initiatives include finding and buying new lines that promote ethical sourcing and labor such as Moose Knuckles, Jacob Cohen, and Fedeli. We’re also working with our long-standing designers such as Zegna and Gherardi to source and focus on the use of recycled and renewable materials. With many people retreating to their summer homes for longer than usual this year, we realized we’d need to be creative in finding new ways to bring the services and comforts of Mr. Sid to our customers. We accomplished this by launching our very first popup shop in Mashpee, MA. And while in-home appointments/fittings have always been something we offer, we’ve certainly made an even stronger emphasis on servicing our customers in ways that ensure their safety and meet their personal comfort level. Whether it be private in-store appointments, virtual appointments, or sending/delivering merchandise to their homes, we feel our message is clear: you can count on Mr. Sid. We’re proud of the good we’ve done over the last 53 years, we’re grateful for the many meaningful relationships we’ve established, and we’ll continue to deliver on our values and our reputation every day.

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VINCE M A R RO N E

P R E S I D E N T, P A I S L E Y & G R AY

C R AW F O R D B RO C K

S TANLEY KORSHAK, DALL AS

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MY MANTRA FROM MY MENTOR, Stanley Marcus, is on repeat in my head – stay the course. People still value quality and service, and our mission has always been, and will continue to be, providing the best shopping experience to make our customers feel good. It might be in person, at a customer’s home, over facetime or online. But, at the end of the day, more now than ever, we want to create the best customer experience. While we’re not compromising on who we are and what we stand for (providing the best of the best), we are adapting quickly to our customer’s more casual wardrobe needs. We’re a tight store family, close to our community and our customers. We know that together, we can weather any changes that come our way.

THE PAST SIX MONTHS have been a reset on so many fronts. Most importantly, it’s good to be reminded of what’s important. For those of us who grew up in the fashion industry, we were taught to work hard and sacrifice and you will be rewarded. Over the years, we were rewarded but our most recent payoff has been to watch our industry implode. But between zoom calls and working from home, I’ve come to realize that other things are important beyond drive and success: spending time with family and just being healthy are the true gifts. With 40 years in this industry, I’ve observed common traits among menswear execs: courage, fortitude and an undying spirit. Therefore, I’m very optimistic that our industry can collectively turn this around. Over the last five years, I’ve seen the need to innovate and to grow from a tailored clothing company to a lifestyle brand. We created Paisley & Gray for this reason. Now and into 2021, we’ll continue to innovate, expand our product offerings and our customer base. But we need the stores to be innovative as well. Over the last few weeks I’ve read comments from a handful of retailers saying they’re only buying brands they’ve bought before. I believe that mentality does a huge disservice to their stores and their customers. Now is the time to bring something new to the game. For Fall 20, rather than sit on our inventory, we brought in new fresh product; the stores that took delivery are selling it extremely well. Customers want something new and exciting, especially after what’s gone on the last six months. In lieu of face to face meetings, we’ve been leaning on zoom calls and virtual showings. We videoed the entire Spring ‘21 collection with live model shots and put that on NuOrder along with product introductions. We’re trying to give our buyers the most realistic view of our product. We’re also building on the success of our Limited Edition collection, which uses fabrics made of recycled fibers. Sustainability is very important and we’re doing our part to conserve resources for a healthy planet. Now more than ever, there’s a need for people to feel hope. Our Spring 21 collection has a very optimistic essence and “feel good” vibe. What’s happening in our country today is disappointing on so many levels. We must all try to be better humans, show more empathy, care more about our planet and work together to bring change and sustainability for a better quality of life for the next generations.

The worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top leather jacket company. Private label available. Contact: lyn@chr-fashion.com 647.627.1713

TAILORED CLOTHING

HANGING TOUGH R E TA I L E R S DE BAT E HOW TO R E I G N I T E A N D R E I N V E N T SU I T BU SI N E S S . BY K A R E N A L B E R G G R O S S M A N

F O R A R E C E N T V I R T U A L D I S C U S S I O N M R P R O D U C E D I N PA R T E R N S H I P W I T H I N F O R M A , A PA N E L O F T O P TA I L O R E D C L O T H I N G E X E C S S P O K E C A N D I D LY A B O U T T H E P O S T- PA N D E M I C S TAT E O F S U I T B U S I N E S S , A N D H O W T O B R I N G I T B A C K . W H AT F O L L O W S , E D I T E D E X C E R P T S F R O M T H E C O N V E R S AT I O N . 38

THE PANEL 1. Mark-Evan Blackman, tailored clothing historian and former head of menswear design at Fashion Institute of Technology, where so many name designers got their training.

2. Murry Penner, M Penner in Houston, follows his dad Morris and both grandfathers into the retail business with a men’s/ women’s store in Houston.

3. Erick Deleon, from MartinPatrick3, takes a more eclectic approach to the menswear business at this recognized fashion/ design emporium in Minneapolis. 4. Bob Mitchell, from Mitchells stores, six renowned men’s and women’s stores across the U.S. Mitchells in Westport was founded in 1958 by Bob’s grandfather Ed Mitchell.

3 5

6. Scott Shapiro, from Syd Jerome, a single fabulous flagship store in downtown Chicago founded by Scott’s dad Sid Shapiro in 1958.

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5. Larry Rosen, from Harry Rosen stores, 18 iconic menswear stores across Canada, in business for 66 years, founded by Larry’s dad Harry Rosen.

TAILORED CLOTHING

How’s business in tailored clothing and what’s trending? Would you consider adding lower pricepoints to attract more business from department store closings?

MURRY PENNER With no need for men to go into the office or dress up, it’s a difficult time to be in the clothing business. We’re not selling enough of anything to detect a trend. Tailored represents about 50 percent of our business, much of which these days is made-to-measure. Our push going forward will be the fusion of tailored with sportswear. We’re not trading down as there’s no way to compete with excessive markdowns from the big stores. (Neiman’s is now our moderate-priced competitor…) Of course, we’re cutting back inventory and we’re already very lean. We have customers who come into the store and ask “Is this all you have?” to which we reply “Yes, but this is the best of the best.” BOB MITCHELL The pandemic has merely accelerated a downward trend that was already happening in suits. Tailored was more than 50% of our menswear volume; now it’s in the low 40s, maybe it will be 30 percent down the road. But I believe there will always be a place for tailored clothing in all of our markets. Right now, sportcoats are selling better than suits: when we marked down our spring sportcoats to ridiculous prices, people bought them! But this is not a 40

viable long-term strategy. Nor is bringing in cheaper goods: Samuelsohn and Munro remain our opening pricepoints. I see the immediate future driven by sportcoats. But the overall market for tailored is frozen: there’s no demand so no point in stocking lots of inventory. Any increases might come from price escalation: guys buying fewer items but spending more on each. But bottom line, we need to control inventory and carry over (pack and hold) until demand for tailored clothing returns. For the first time ever, we packed and held spring suits. Going forward, we plan to aggressively market sportcoats, mixing them with sportswear throughout the store.

we present a strong point of view in both sportcoats and suits. We don’t do much MTM except for weddings: we’re forcing our customers to buy off the rack. We’ve always made it a point to include some intro pricepoints: Bonobos, Theory, John Varvatos, Paul Smith. In this way, we even sell high school kids who want to dress up for school photos.

LARRY ROSEN There’s no tailored clothing trend this fall and until offices and events open up, there’s not likely to be one. Weddings are driving some business but not enough; we’re still pretty locked down throughout Canada. I believe the suit will remain the armor a man wears for important occasions. The problem is occasions are much less frequent.

MITCHELL Until demand increases, a model change won’t help. Lighter, softer clothing maybe but even that’s still a small percent. Usage is just so low right now.

SCOTT SHAPIRO I’m clearly an aberration in this group as I remain optimistic. Tailored clothing and related categories probably generate 90 percent of our volume. And just since Labor Day, I’m seeing some business come back. Sole practicing litigators are coming into the store, wanting a new suit. Financial execs tell me their customers are coming back so they want a new suit. I’m still betting on tailored staying the mainstay of our business. ERICK DELEON It’s hard to single out a fall clothing trend but we’re selling what we brought in. We’re more a lifestyle store: 22,000 sq ft including an interior design studio, lots of art, home accessories, furniture. Pre-pandemic, we were actively growing tailored with brands like Isaia, Cucinelli, Zegna, Canali, Eleventy, Boglioli, Hickey Freeman… We don’t carry lots of sleeves but

Wouldn’t a change in model give customers a reason to buy a new suit? After all, the slim suit has been around for many years now. And while designer runways are showing looser, drapier clothing, retailers seem reluctant.

DELEON I think the key is to be true to who you are, while bringing in some new things. It’s not time to hit the panic button and this pandemic does offer opportunity to try something different.

ROSEN I don’t think a change in model would help: there’s at least a year in front of us before any semblance of normalcy. Like Mitchells, we’ve packed and held a good amount of suits and we’re merchandising fall selling floors by combining sportcoats with upscale sportswear.

“FOR A NEW GENERATION WITH MONEY, WE BREAK UP THE SUIT TO SHOW PROGRESSION AND VERSATILITY.” —ERICK DELEON, MARTINPATRICK3 MARK-EVAN BLACKMAN I’ve seen the role of tailored clothing change tremendously in the past 15 years. If you look back 40 years, suits were the default wardrobe to indicate power. Today, suits are no longer required at church or at weddings; people with start-up money are not wearing suits. Maybe they’ll wear a softly tailored cashmere bomber jacket that costs as much as, or more than, a suit but young creatives don’t necessarily want to be perceived as ‘suit guys.’ It’s not a money issue, it’s a perception issue.

PENNER I think that changing the model is premature: first we need customers wanting to wear suits. But pleated pants could work: we should be adding some interesting new tweaks to our sportswear mix. Our goal remains to lead customers to clothes that will help them look and feel their best. Only a small percent of our customers want to be challenged style-wise. DELEON I think lot of what happens is generational. For the new generation with money, we break up the suit to show progression and versatility. So we’ll show one mannequin wearing the suit pant with upscale sportswear and another mannequin wearing the suit jacket for

something new and exciting. Vendors need to re-think, re-size, re-merchandise, re-invent. They need to stop saying ‘this is how we’ve always done it.’

What if the industry got together to create a national ad campaign touting that message? MITCHELL An industry ad campaign won’t happen: we can’t even agree on a navy blazer! But we should all be promoting the jacket—be it a soft sportcoat, shirtjac, outerwear piece—as the critical item in a wardrobe. Zoom calls have allowed people to regress. I can’t imagine what my grandfather would say about customers buying $1000 jeans, $600 sneakers…but that’s what they’re buying. So tailored clothing will likely hibernate for a season or two; we have to hang tough. Final thoughts? MITCHELL I disagree that young guys want something totally different from their fathers. I’ve observed that young customers generally want the same Zegna-Cucinelli-Isaia looks as their dads; they want a relatively traditional suit that’s flattering. Some young guys are even more traditional than their dads… ROSEN I predict menswear business will be up slightly for fourth quarter, but that tailored will take a longer time to come back. We need to pivot toward the real opportunities and seek out new ideas in leisure dressing, above and beyond our traditional businesses. PENNER I agree that the future is luxury sportswear. The tailored clothing business will remain extremely difficult, especially suits, and I don’t see this business coming back before third or fourth quarter next year. But when customers regain interest in tailored clothing, they’ll want to see

DELEON I agree that business will improve for fourth quarter. And I’m optimistic that it will all come back for specialty stores who have a much better foot forward than department stores. The key is to stay true to your DNA and merchandise so that each brand has a distinctive DNA. You don’t need a blue blazer from every label. SHAPIRO I remain optimistic. If we survive this, we’ll be so much stronger and more relevant. In my downtown Chicago neighborhood alone, Brooks Brothers and Paul Stuart have vacated; Men’s Wearhouse and Joseph A. Banks are closed. And with the big specialty department stores closing doors in the suburbs, many of those customers will be venturing downtown. But I strongly believe that vendors must do a better job directing business to our stores. With so many big store closings, we’re now more important to them than ever. If specialty stores stay loyal to their luxury brands, these brands should let their customers know that we carry their product. To view the entire recorded discussion go to mr-mag.com, or visit Project Digital’s “LEARN” content page as part of the N:OW Forum.

MR MAGAZINE HOLIDAY 2020

SHAPIRO Before we buy Spring ‘21, we need to first have ‘the conversation’ with our vendors. We need to negotiate support, back-up, partnerships, issues like how we can utilize their stock programs. For us to prepare for a worst-case scenario, we need vendor support. With fall goods arriving and spring ’21 almost put to bed, we need some new looks so that when customers come in, we give them a reason to buy. We haven’t had a model change since 2008. When we first brought in blue tuxedos, we sold tons! We need some vision from the vendors. I believe that as independent specialty stores, if we get behind a new look, it will happen.

a totally different look. We show the progression and let the customer decide. Many young guys are first learning that nothing feels better than putting on a well-tailored piece.

FA S H I O N

WORKING FROM HOME

JUS T GO T

MR ’S FASHION DIRECT OR PICKS HIS FAVORITE SS ’21 COLLECTIONS SEEN DIGITALLY FROM HIS DESK IN MANHATTAN. BY STEPHEN GARNER

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CASABLANCA Creative director Charaf Tajer takes us to a luxurious Hawaiian surf club this season with updates to his signature items – like silk shirting, scarves, and denim – we’ve come to love from the label. Linen tailoring showcases the evolution in Casablanca’s suiting range with doublebreasted suits perfect for a mid-summer evening soiree. A psychedelic fuse of rainbow hues gives a glimpse into the magic of nature through lush green tropical prints. Signature silk items denote the Surf Club theme in blush pink and deep ocean blue shirting. Fresh, light knitwear for the summer feature illustrations of oranges, a tennis court, and a ship docking underneath a rainbow. The collection also introduces a new après sport tracksuit offered in a light technical fabric to suit sizzling temperatures in addition to the popular cashmere terry cloth.

FA S H I O N

FEAR OF GOD If I could pick one perfect collection this season where I’d wear every single item, it would be this one. Founder and designer Jerry Lorenzo built upon his Los Angeles casual roots and serves up a coming of age story for his brand–moving from selling casual-luxury essentials to introducing a post-streetwear assortment featuring suiting, knits, and accessories, all appearing for the first time. The biggest introduction to the line this season is tailoring. Handmade in Italy, this new brand extension undoubtedly comes as a natural progression of Lorenzo’s recent collaboration with Ermenegildo Zegna. His take on tailoring is adapted and updated for a transitional and trans-seasonal cozy feel that speaks to a young creative.

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA Speaking of Zegna, artistic director Alessandro Sartori used the luxury Italian brand’s headquarters in Trivero, two hours northeast of Milan, as the backdrop to its prerecorded summer 2021 show. As Ermenegildo Zegna celebrates its 110th anniversary this year, it finds a new focus on sustainability and protecting the environment this season. The resulting collection is fluid and uncontrived, highlighted by mock turtleneck underpinnings that replace shirts under blazers and shirt jackets, duster coats, and roomy trousers that draw an elongated and nonchalant silhouette. Rounded loafers with massive soles and sandals ground the looks. Tie-dye prints enrich the layering of colors and textures.

MR MAGAZINE HOLIDAY 2020

FA S H I O N

FRÈRE This season became a therapeutic outlet for designer Davidson Petit-Frère after the passing of his grandmother due to COVID-19. As a sign of the times, he paired face masks with his luxurious black and white marble stretch brocade fabrics. The collection was handmade in Milan and Naples, and milled in Paris. Fabrics include silk, satin, linen, and wool. Petit-Frère didn’t skimp on luxury this season, as every piece looks and feels expensive. Perhaps, save these items for more formal Zoom occasions. And, since the brand is known for its classic take on men’s tailoring and attention to detail, Frère has expanded its offering this season with the addition of women’s readyto-wear.

MR MAGAZINE HOLIDAY 2020

BOGLIOLI This season, the Italian brand’s key looks center around its garment-dyed jackets, though this time they are more lived-in, in a lighter combination of Tencel with cotton and linen, touchable fabrications like cotton/silk blend, Solaro-dyed, performance wool, herringbone, and prince-of-wales linen, and tropical weight cashmere. Boglioli is also, for the first time, using super-light wool jersey in outerwear, making jackets with the ease and weightlessness of a t-shirt. Silk, in a delicate blend, embellishes the fabrics making them light and perfect for the summer season. For a brand that has always approached tailoring in a slightly casual way, this collection is a can’t-miss.

FA S H I O N

FENDI Like many brands this season, designer Silvia Venturini Fendi showed her newest men’s and women’s collections together at a socially-distant runway show in Milan. The collection itself, dubbed “Fendi Reflections,” is a patchwork of Venturini Fendi’s memories – time spent with family in Rome during lockdown and the quiet introspection she experienced. It saw past models, collections, concepts, and most definitely bags return, but refreshed for the season. Formal structures are softened – coat backs and shirt sleeves unbutton, tailored details are ‘debossed’ in trompe l’oeil knitwear, while embroidered housecoats and flared tunics elevate dressing while being comfortable at home.

JACQUEMUS The beloved French designer did not disappoint this season, with what may have been, the first fashion show with an audience since the onset of COVID-19. Set in the idyllic Vexin National Park just northwest of Paris, Jacquemus stayed true to his brand’s aesthetic: roomy, airy pieces that recall classic workwear shapes. There was, though, increased representation of tailoring on offer, including wrap-fronted, unstructured blazers, and oversized, slouchy trousers. As with a lot of his recent collections, I expect this one to be an instant hit with consumers.

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This page: Saks Fifth Avenue’s Frozen themed windows from last year. Opposite page: NYC Holiday windows from years past at Saks Fifth Avenue, Macy’s, and Bloomingdale’s.

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WINDOW DRESSING While the stores’ legendary holiday windows have admittedly been a favorite of tourists to New York City, there’s little debate that locals also take great delight in these dazzling displays. So, it’s no surprise that retailers are still making a major effort to impress anyone and everyone who comes by the store. Saks Fifth Avenue, which is renowned for its elaborate one-night only, in-person launches, will transition to a 20-night “celebration” to be livestreamed and transmitted via social media. But that change isn’t going

BUY, BUY, BUY As much as everyone loves clever windows and sparkly decorations, retailers know that what you can (and will) buy is what really counts, which is something Dallas-based Neiman Marcus (whose Hudson Yards store in NYC was forced to close due to the pandemic) takes very seriously. Each fall, shoppers with bulging wallets await the store’s well-known “fantasy gifts” with great anticipation: recent selections include a James Bond-inspired Aston Martin designed by actor Daniel Craig and a 74-foot yacht. (Proceeds from the fantasy gifts go to charity).

But the selection of curated men’s merchandise available this year is equally mouth-watering to luxury customers, ranging from cushy sweaters by Vince, a wide variety of must-have accessories and watches from Detroit-based Shinola, eye-catching leather shoes and belts by Christian Louboutin, snazzy sneakers from Golden Goose. For its part, Bloomingdale’s is hoping to entice shoppers into its flagship by offering a one-of-a-kind holiday assortment throughout its store, including luxurious men’s fashion options. In addition, an assortment of expertly curated gifts will be available at its holiday shop, which will feature a “stocking stuffer bar” with many wonderful items priced under $100. LET’S HAVE A PARADE While Macy’s Herald Square (as of press time) has yet to confirm all the ways they’re celebrating the holiday season – including its iconic windows and Santaland – its most important tradition remains intact: The Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade. Unsurprisingly, the challenges of COVID-19 have required significant changes to this beloved 90-year-old spectacle. This year’s event will be a television-broadcast-only production with staging focused solely in and around the Herald Square store, rather than the traditional 2.5-mile route. While performances for the previously selected regional marching bands will be deferred to the 2021 Macy’s Parade, with locally based professional marching and musical ensembles taking musical duties in the lineup. Best of all, Macy’s signature giant character balloons will still be flown -- albeit without the traditional 80-100 handlers – by employing a specially rigged anchor vehicle framework on five vehicles that have been tested and approved by the City of New York “The Macy’s Parade is our love letter and gift to the City of New York and the nation. Under the unique challenges of these unparalleled times, we felt it was important to continue this cherished holiday tradition that has been the opening act to the holiday season for generations of families,” said Susan Tercero, executive producer of Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade. “While it will certainly look different in execution, this year’s Macy’s Parade celebration will once again serve its historical purpose – to bring joy into the hearts of millions across the nation.”

MR MAGAZINE HOLIDAY 2020

AS THE HOLIDAY season approaches, brick-and-mortar retailers are painfully aware of the need to create excitement, literally inside and outside, as shoppers during the COVID-19 pandemic have become increasingly reliant–and comfortable–purchasing gifts and necessities through the online marketplace. In addition, the spread of Coronavirus throughout America, which is likely to increase The façade as the weather gets of Saks Fifth Avenue’s colder, the upcoming majestic Presidential election, flagship store. and a variety of other factors are making it harder for even veteran economists to predict the future of brick-and-mortar holiday sales. Some see sales as basically flat over last year, some are predicting slight increases, and others just admit that it’s simply too early to call. Nonetheless, as MR has discovered, major department stores in New York City (and elsewhere) are still trying their best to make the holidays merry, bright, and, yes, profitable.

to drastically affect the final product. “So much of what we would have done in person, like production visits and sampling, is now happening virtually, which has definitely been an adjustment, but the evolution of the process has brought forth a new level of creative thinking. Being forced out of your comfort zone is not a bad thing!” said Eva Maravelias, AVP of visual at Saks Fifth Avenue. “Our holiday windows are our annual gift to our customers and the city of New York. Visiting the Fifth Avenue store during the holidays is a tradition for so many and it’s essential that we preserve moments like this that bring joy and togetherness.” Nordstrom, one of NYC’s newest department stores, does not have traditional windows, but that’s not stopping the Seattle-based company from pulling out all the stops. It will unveil its labor-intensive holiday decorations on Friday, November 27th. A crew of nearly 100 employees will transform the 320,000 square-foot, seven-level women’s store on West 57th Street into a winter wonderland with 253,000 feet of twinkling lights, over 700 Scandinavian-inspired ornaments, 150 trees, 150 hanging chandeliers, snowflakes and candle wreaths, 120 column wraps with hanging wood sconces, 50 illuminated branches and 20 wall-mounted sculptures. Meanwhile, red and white lights will illuminate the store’s waveform glass façade, turning it into a blinking light show that will last throughout the holidays. Nordstrom said that its flagship, along with its Men’s Store across the street, will house a handful of holiday pop-up shops, a gift wrap and personalization hub, visits from Santa, holiday breakfasts, and a host of services to make holiday shopping easy and stress-free.

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Carefully Select Your Medium + Know Your Audience Last year I taught a short course on Creative Direction at FIT, and one of the exercises we do together is “the day in the life of…”. Understanding what your customer does every day, every week, every month means you are able to tap into the media 56

which they consume. Do they wake up and look at TikTok on their cell phones, or wake up and switch on the radio? How do they travel – subway, car, walk? How can disrupt through those methods of communication that your consumer will be choosing to consume, and also subconsciously. There’s

no point in you spending time on Instagram or TikTok if they don’t use those channels. The world’s gone digital, but you don’t have to. Knowing your brand ethos is key, and how your consumers/fans are consuming the media. As well as Falconer Agency, I run a creators platform called Hatchers.tv.

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influencers have bought their followers– don’t do that. Focus on creating great content that your customers will love and want to share. Sharing that increases awareness, and your social numbers–organically. For press, befriend and create your ‘press network’. When I chat to UK brands newly opening up in the U.S., I suggest creating their ‘press network’– this being a close-knit community to whom they give insight information, invite to private events, and offer product. Who has written about the brand previously? Make a list of key journalists, stylists, and digital creators who you would like to collaborate with and share your brand’s ethos.

Recent collaboration project–introducing The Armoury and FIT and Gladson to create the Vitale Barberis Canonico collaboration, which was on display at The Armoury Madison Avenue

Someone suggested to me at the beginning of lockdown “you must start doing Instagram live events”– and I disagreed – our ethos is to advocate slow media, so why would we create content in a disposable, fast manner? From targeting 30-year-old males. Just because the world has seemingly “gone digital overnight” it doesn’t mean you have to – choose the forms of media which your customers engage with. What’s Your Message? Less is more. Decide what your message is, and make it clear and consistent. Communicate often, but not too much. Consider - What are you promoting? What is the call to action? Note – the call to action doesn’t always have to be ‘buy now’, look at the wider picture and rather than pushing your customers to Gladson has buy, how can you emsuccessfully pathize, understand collaborated and show compassion. with author and The brands that are sartorial historian Bruce Boyer. succeeding right now are those that have a strong community.

Create Community The people who are interested in your brand will have likeminded interests; how can you foster and grow this community? Whether it’s via a social media channel or newsletters. While events may be on hold or socially distanced right now–there’s still ways to grow your community. I must stress here –do not focus on the numbers; numbers are becoming less important. It’s easy to tell when brands and

Collaborate Collaboration is key to reach new audiences, create new ideas and share resources. Partnerships should be a key part of your strategy, and for growing your brand. We connected Kangol with East London street wear brand Terrible Movement, the result was Kangols first ever clothing line – a diffusion line, a pop-up store in London’s Box Park in Shoreditch, a series of events, and looping the campaign into a wider global Kangol campaign ‘Kangol Radio’– which meant the campaign grew from UK to global reach. For the independent brand –they were able to have their product on sale nationwide in stores in the UK, and online globally, plus extensive PR. For Kangol –they were connected to a new audience of customers, creators and cultural influencers, and increased PR. Who would you like to collaborate with? What can you offer in exchange? Image above is from a recent collaboration project – introducing The Armoury and FIT and Gladson to create the Vitale Barberis Canonico collaboration, which was on display at The Armoury Madison Avenue Co-Creation A great way to engage with press, customers and influencers is co-created content, consider how you can work with them to create content that you and they can share across digital platforms. The more people are sharing and talking about the brand, the more it will grow.

An example of great co-creation– Ben Sherman recently collaborated with British band Ruen Brothers, who wore Ben Sherman clothing in their recent campaign

Support Emerging Creators Investing in quality content is key – and you can’t do everything yourself/in house. Find emerging creators and support them in the beginning of their career journeys. Pay them well and they will be your future ambassadors when they are rising stars. Do not be one of those brands that does not pay creators – this is a faux pas and will be detrimental to your brand. Consider speaking with creative universities. I am more than happy to help connect the dots with universities such as FIT– you could collaborate with paid internships. The younger generations have insight into your future consumer– foster that community. Creatives are the influencers, not bloggers who will smile for free product. Be authentic and support creative talent.

Utilize you USP’s When speaking with British brands who are moving over to the U.S., often our conversations are surrounding quality, Made in Britain, having a Royal Warrant. What are your brands USPs? How can you make them part of your messaging?

Heather spoke at Cannes Lions Festival of Creativity on the topic of ‘why brands and agencies should collaborate with emerging creators’

Heather Falconer is the founder of Falconer Agency, a communications agency based in New York that focuses on partnerships and strategy services for fashion and lifestyle brands. She is also founder of Hatchers, a curatorial platform that connects creative visionaries to brands. You can reach Heather via – hello@heatherfalconer.com.

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Thought Leadership – Share your story How has this year been for you, truthfully? People are drawn to people, and often the best ‘brand ambassadors’ are the CEO/ founders. What trade magazines can you share your story with, local radio stations, and of course– on your own brand communication channels. Don’t be whiney, but be truthful. People respect honesty and by showing there’s a person behind the brand who’s jumped through hoops to keep the business and brand alive – that draws people to the brand. You don’t need to create stories, they’re already created.

Why Buy Your Shirts from Christopher Lena? To make money, of course! Steve Valenti, Steven Valenti Clothing, Pittsfield, MA: “Christopher Lena is a major player in our store: we call there at least three times a week to place fill-in orders; their customer service is amazing! Both their blends and all-cottons are always available in a broad range of colors, sizes, and fits, offering better quality and value than most designer labels. Iʼve sold literally thousands of these shirts in the five years weʼve carried the line and Iʼve never had a single return!” Steve Warby, The Clothing Center, East Brunswick, NJ: “I discovered the Christopher Lena shirt collection at a trade show: I liked that there were different price levels, all exceptional quality. I liked the broad range of colors, sizes and fits. I also liked Lenny: heʼs smart, personable and actually listens--to both compliments and criticisms. If something needs to be fixed, Lenny fixes it. Heʼs never pushy and heʼs incredibly innovative—always on top of new trends like his successful entry into performance stretch fabrics.” Paul Rosengard, Suits 20/20, Niles, IL: Weʼve been doing business with Lenny and his father for 29 years. His father built a great business but when Lenny took over, he did a phenomenal job elevating the styling and quality and bringing the business into the 21st century. His shirts are the best value in the dress shirt and sport shirt markets today, inspiring tremendous customer loyalty and repeat business. Weʼve cut back on our designer brands to sell more Christopher Lena! Dana Katz, Miltons The Store for Men, MA: “Lenny is one of our absolute favorite vendors because he combines terrific product at exceptional value with a great team that always executes well. Heʼs a smart business person who listens intently, embraces change, asks good questions and possesses the rare qualities of humility and empathy.” Fred Derring, DLS: “Many of our stores have had tremendous success with Christopher Lena shirts: their in-stock programs are incredible: all sizes, all colors, all fits, shipped out right way. Their blended shirt program is a monster! And Lenny is a wonderful person, always a pleasure to work with!”

LAST WORD

THE DEATH AND REBIR TH OF

MENSWEAR Joseph Abboud’s roadmap for change. By Karen Alberg Grossman How can stores stay in business without high-ticket items? I believe soft sportcoats will be the cornerstone of a new dress code; I’ve always believed in mixing tailored pieces and sportswear. I think stores should be promoting “healing fabrics”—natural and organic cotton, linen, cashmere, wool and silk. Layering is key: once you start adding to the sportcoat--turtlenecks, vests, scarfs, jeans, trousers—you can build a high-ticket sale. Of course, this requires an engaged and motivated sales team. I strongly believe the rising phoenix will be the specialty store. Years ago, every major department store looked to Louis Boston, Barneys, Paul Stuart, and Charivari for ideas. These “small batch” retailers had the courage to venture in new directions. I recently stopped in a menswear store called Maxwell & Co. in Falmouth and felt a sudden surge of hope. It’s a well curated luxury store for men and women with a strong point of view. It was busy: both men and women were shopping. It’s a throwback to the era of great specialty stores: smaller quantities, made in Italy, a perfect flow of product so that virtually everything works with everything else. Now more than ever, brick-and-mortar retail should be about theater, about storytelling.

Your assessment of the current state of menswear? I believe we’re in a sea change, bigger than the economy, bigger than the pandemic, bigger than the normal six- or seven-year swings. Clearly, the major stores are in trouble: it’s like the Titanic heading for the iceberg. Aside from vast physical spaces seeming less safe, their message—selling clothes by the pound--is no longer relevant. Today’s customers are savvy: they’re not buying price (they recognize artificially inflated tickets); they don’t need a suit of armor. I believe the era of the conventional suit is over. We need to communicate a new message, one involving comfort and wellness. 64

Do you see men’s fashion becoming looser and drapier? Yes, but it should evolve naturally: so much of oversized runway fashion looks exaggerated and silly. When you’re working with beautiful fabrics, you want to see fluidity and movement: at some point, the slim suit clearly became the too-slim suit. Men can look sexy and masculine in less-tight clothes but we need to lead them gently, intelligently. But yes, comfort is definitely today’s buzzword: clothes need to move with the body.

MR MAGAZINE HOLIDAY 2020

Award-winning designer Joseph Abboud has dedicated his life to menswear, thriving through many decades of ups and downs. Here, he looks to the future.

So all it takes is theater and a strong point of view? Those are fundamentals. Retailers who rely too heavily on data and analytics are looking backward, not forward. And the future for menswear retailing will be nothing like the past. Unfortunately, retailers need to accept, at least for the next year, that they’ll be doing less volume and cut expenses accordingly. They need to form stronger partnerships with their vendors, finding new ways to help each other. Be it extending terms, taking back excess inventory or working out financial deals, we’re in this together now more than ever.

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