WWI 103 by Walking World Ireland

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!"#$$%&'%( IF WE MAY BE PERMITTED to blow our own trumpet for a moment, I'd suggest that is is a cracking issue of WWI. Star of the show is undoubtedly Gavin Bates' superb reflection on his successful Everest expedition earlier this year. Gavin has known his share of triumph and disaster on Everest, and has learned to take the two imposters, if not in his stride, then at least head-on. But what makes his account compelling is that it isn't an account in the conventional sense. In the finest tradition of mountain writing, his piece is far from a conventional blow-by-blow account; it is a self-critique - the sort of introspection that gives soul-searching a good name. He is brave enough to admit ambivalence towards his obsession - but then bravery is Gavin's currency. Closer to sea level - and much closer to home, we are reminded that challenges come in all shapes and sizes. Niamh Goddard's account of the Isle of Man's Parish Walk made my feet hurt just reading it, but in an era when the limits of ‘ordinary’ people’s potential is being constantly re-defined, the Parish Walk may find a place on a few more lists. Adi Roche (pxx) does credit not only to Ireland but to humanity and if she says – as she does – that walking sustains and inspires her, that’s a hell of a recommendation. Adi’s not big on walking mountains, but she moves them on a regular basis, and it’s clear that walking plays an important part in keeping her show on the road. A picture paints a thousand words, but some pictures transcend description. On page xx you'll find an stunning panorama from Iceland - a country extravagantly blessed with landscape in almost chaotic abundance. It's not difficult to imagine the thrill being experienced by the nameless foreground figure as he contemplates the walk ahead of him. It’s a walking thing… The walking world is the world; it just couldn't be any more rich, welcoming or challenging. From the Mediterranean coast of Turkey to the Sheefry Hills, from Everest to Douglas - and countless points between, it's out there waiting for us.

Publisher: Conor O'Hagan Consultant Editor: Martin Joyce Advertisement Manager: Roger Cole. Tel: +353 (1)285 9111. Email: sales@walkingworldireland.com Skype: silchester52 Design: Gwyn Parry Technical Consultant: Andy Callan Environmental Consultant: Dick Warner Maps: EastWest Mapping Contributors: Judy Armstrong, Gavin Bate, Andy Callan, Zoe Devlin, Helen Fairbairn, Michael Fewer, Denis Gill, Adrian Hendroff, Tom Hutton, Gareth McCormack, Dick Warner Photographers: Judy Armstrong, Gavin Bate, Eoin Clarke, Adrian Hendroff, Tom Hutton, Gareth McCormack, Richard Mills Published by: Athletic Promotions Limited, ‘Edelweiss’, Cushina, Portarlington, Co Laois. Tel: +353 (0)5786 45343 Email: walkingworldirl@iol.ie ISSN No. 0791-8801

Cover Photo: Walking the banks of the Owennacunny River by Gareth McCormack Editor

Walking World Ireland is always pleased to receive articles, but publication cannot be guaranteed. The magazine is not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos/slides submitted. Unsolicited articles will be returned only if accompanied by return postage. Guidelines regarding articles and photos are available for potential contributors on receipt of return postage. All photos/slides must bear the name of the sender on each photo/slide. Captions should accompany them. No part of this magazine may be used or reproduced without the express permission of the editor or publishers, and even if such permission is given, the source must be acknowledged when used. This also applies to advertising originated by the publishers. Whilst every care has been taken to describe the routes and terrain accurately, the publishers and contributors accept no responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience sustained as a result of using this magazine. Mapping based on Ordnance Survey Ireland by permission of the Government. © Government of Ireland Permit No 7208.

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LIQUITAINER

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!"#$%&'()*+,-,(%$() ./00)1"%+()2,,)3%#"4 THE IRISH WILDLIFE TRUST has described Government proposals to protect Irish wetlands as ‘200 years too late’. In a statement posted on the Trust’s website (www.iwt.ie) last month, the IWT also describes the reaction of The Irish Cattle and Sheep Farmers Association (ICSFA) to government proposals as ‘hysterical’. The statement reads: “The IWT welcomes proposals from the Government to legislate for the protection of wetlands. Whether the legislation will be strong enough to work is another matter. Once again the protection of the environment only comes when the European Commission puts a gun to our head. This new law will not prevent the thousands of hectares of wetlands that have been lost over the decades to the detriment of our wellbeing and natural heritage. Nevertheless the drainage of swamps, marshes and other valuable wetlands continues apace as there has never been any value placed on their importance as natural habitats, purifiers of our water or attenuating floods. The Irish Cattle and Sheep Farmers Association (ICSFA) issued a press release on July 11th stating that the new regulations that will require planning permission prior to drainage of wetlands as “an outrageous assault on property rights and the concept of freedom to farm” and described this environmentally destructive practice as ‘progressive farming’. The ICFSA should note that Ireland’s natural heritage belongs to the people of Ireland and no one has so-called ‘rights’ to act as they see fit in their own interest. IWT chairman Pádraic Fogarty says “over 90% of Ireland’s land is

given over to agriculture in one form or another, it is high time we learned to recognise the value of a healthy environment over and above what can be shown on a balance sheet. Most farmers are sensitive to environmental concerns and the hysterical ICFSA reaction does nothing to advance their interests.” Given that environmental law in Ireland is poorly enforced it is unlikely that this new law will have any effect but it is nevertheless a step in the right direction.”

9"%':&;)<,+)#=") >+"%#)?@#',,+( GERRY COLLINS has retired after 35 years as an owner of Dublin’s Great Outdoors. From Walking World Ireland, and on behalf of our readers - best of luck, Gerry!

Master craftsmen Meindl stands for master craftsmanship... and has done so for more than 11 generations and 300 years. Burma Pro MFS – A Revolution in Comfort

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DUTCH WALKER Mary Anne Goossens survived 18 days trapped at the bottom of a ravine in southern Spain in what rescuers have called â&#x20AC;&#x153;a true miracle.â&#x20AC;? Mary Anne Goossens, 48, arrived in the southern town of Malaga on June 15 for a ten-day holiday. After straying from a walking path near Nerja, she became lost in the mountains. She reportedly walked for days trying unsuccessfully to find the nearest village. She then decided to follow the course of the river Chillar to ensure a source of water while waiting for someone to find her, but at some point fell into a pit between two waterfalls. Goossens was discovered by three hikers who were traveling along the Chillar. They threw her food and clothing before alerting the local mountain rescue service, who airlifted her to a nearby hospital. Goossens told paramedics that she fell into the ravine on the night of June 17 and managed to squeeze herself into a side cavity where she wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be in constant contact with the water. Amazingly, despite her weakened condition, Goossens was able to walk from the helicopter to the hospitalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s emergency room. Her ordeal left her with relatively minor injuries including burns and abrasions.

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BORD NA MĂ&#x201C;NA is planning to create what it is calling â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;the first new major source of water in Ireland in decadesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. The â&#x201A;Ź540 million project to create a new water reservoir will take water at peak flow from the River Shannon to provide drinking water for Dublin and the surrounding areas. Under the plan, water would be stored in Garryhinch cutaway bog near Portarlington, Co. Laois in a reservoir which will cover over 700 acres. Bord na MĂłna, which owns the bog, will build the reservoir where the water will be treated before being transported by pipe to the capital and the surrounding regions. If it gets planning approval the project could create up to 1,000 jobs during the construction phase. It will also create a natural amenity that could be used for water sports, fishing, sailing, walking and bird watching. When it is up and running, there may be over 100 employees involved in the running of the water park, and the operation and maintenance of the water park and treatment plant. Bord na MĂłna envisages a resource and facility that will last well into the future. Dick Warnerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s comment, p42

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IN LIGHT OF THE RECENT STORY of the lost hillwalker Mary Ann Goossens, in the mountains of Nerja and Frigiliana, it is worth pointing out the hazards, once again, of walking alone or unprepared in the hills and mountains. As a Guide here in the Sierra Almijara, I have often run into walkers with a Guide book in one hand and a look of utter bewilderment on their faces as they try to decipher what a writer was trying to describe. These guide books are excellent tools but one basic tenet is often overlooked; they are no substitute for thinking for yourself, working out the route by using contours, measures, timing based on terrain and all the other things that go to making for a successful self-guided walk. Mary-Ann was lost for 18 days, no more than 10 kilometres from the coastal town of Nerja with a population of 22,000 people and no more than 5 or 6 kilometres from Frigiliana with a population of 3000 people. What a difference a Map and Compass Course would have made to her, her distraught family and the hundreds of volunteers who scoured the mountains searching for her, not to mention the huge resources used by the Police, Mountain Rescue among others. The Axarquia or Eastern Malaga has been a remote and inhospitable place for centuries. Home to bandits, guerrillas and revolutionaries through the ages, this area is only now beginning to be explored by Spanish and foreigners alike. These hills will turn you around and upside down. Without proper maps, compass, food and water you can be in serious trouble. Luckily Mary Ann was trapped close to water and was able to survive her ordeal even though she had no food for 18 days and nights. Many people have built fine homes on the lower slopes close to the sea but only a few kilometres away are ravines, gorges, ridges and mountains of such silent, spectacular beauty that one wonders what the tourist agencies are up to for not promoting this fantastic wilderness more. Perhaps they are afraid of many more Mary Ann Goossens getting lost in the wilderness only a few miles from civilisation. When I began to take my hill walking seriously about 14 years ago, one of the first things I did was take a course on Map-reading and the use of a compass. My club, The Hillwalkers, who are affiliated to An Ă&#x201C;ige, ran and indeed still run, Map and Compass courses. Mary Ann got lucky. Without water close by, she would be dead. Her rescue was one of the really good mountain news stories this year, but it also highlighted what can happen in what most people regard as a â&#x20AC;&#x153;safeâ&#x20AC;? hiking area, if you enter unprepared and without due respect for the environment you are walking in. John Keogh John Keogh Walking Tours www.HikingWalkingSpain.com

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he Sheeffry Hills are one of Ireland’s great unsung mountain ranges. Located amid the fantastic landscape of south Mayo, the views from the summit are nothing short of spectacular. The ridges are sharp and the corries are deep, yet solitude is virtually guaranteed; in five visits to the range, I have never crossed paths with another walker. Added together, the unbeatable panorama, chiselled topography and quiet seclusion all add up to Irish hillwalking at its best. This circuit explores the topographic features at the northeastern corner of the range. An approach along the tumbling rapids of the Owennacunny river is matched by a descent between the corrie lakes of Lugaloughaun and

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Lough Lugacolliwee. Between these landmarks lies a steep ascent to 742m-high Sheeffry East, the summit that guards the eastern end of the main ridge. The route approaches from the north, crossing the Muingatogher Bog. This necessitates a kilometre of walking across blanket bog at the start and end of the route, and gaiters will be appreciated after rain. Different versions of the OSi map seem to suggest alternative approaches; a spur route of the Western Way is marked on some older maps, while in recent years a track has been extended all the way to Lugaloughaun. Be warned however that neither of these options present viable walking solutions – the spur of the Western Way is no longer maintained, and the track is privately owned. Though the route

across Muingatogher Bog may be somewhat arduous in damp conditions, it has the advantage of crossing commonage and leading directly to the mountains. Any hardship caused by the peaty ground is quickly eclipsed by the rewards of the rest of the route. Note that the Sheeffry plateau is surrounded by abrupt edges and steep drops, and great care is needed to complete the route in poor visibility.

!"##$%&'()'(*"'+#,-# The walk is best accessed from the N59 Westport-Leenane road. Begin by heading to the village of Liscarney, around 8km south of Westport. Turn west here along a road signed ‘Scenic Route’ to Drummin. Follow this narrow road for 6km to Drummin village, then

turn right just past the church. Around 5km later, turn left onto a narrow lane. Continue for 3km to the end of the road, where a metal gate crosses the tarmac. Park in a lay-by just in front of the gate at GR: L 882,739; there’s enough space for around four vehicles.

!"#$%&'( Begin by passing through the gate and heading west along the road. Continue along the tarmac for around 20m, then turn left onto open bogland. The ground is peaty underfoot, and may be heavy-going in wet conditions. Head south towards the mountains, walking roughly parallel to a fence on your left. The Sheeffry massif fills the view ahead, and now is a good time to locate your line of ascent. A stream can be seen falling down the mountainside just north of the 742m-high summit of Sheeffry East. To the west of this stream lies a grassy slope that is not quite as steep as the surrounding terrain. This slope marks your line of ascent, and this is where you should aim for as you cross the bog towards the mountain. Head slightly southwest until you meet the tumbling waters of the Owennacunny river. The terrain now becomes easier underfoot – the peat is replaced by short grass along the river bank, and the watercourse provides guidance for the rest of your approach to the mountain. Turn left and follow the river through a grassy hollow, continuing upstream to a confluence. The stream on the left of the confluence drains Lugaloughhaun and marks your descent route. For now however you should simply cross to its northern bank. In normal water conditions there’s a shallow spot just beyond the confluence where you can hop across with dry feet.

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!"##$%&' “Located amid the fantastic landscape of south Mayo, the views from the summit are nothing short of spectacular.”

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Now cross the right-hand stream – a simpler proposition – and begin to climb the slope just to its west. The ascent is sustained throughout, and with over 500m of elevation gain, even the fittest of walkers will have to pause for breath. Thankfully the grassy terrain minimises problems underfoot, and views over Croagh Patrick, Clare Island and Clew Bay to the north provide distraction as you gain height. Rocks begin to protrude as you reach the very top of the slope and pass over the lip onto the summit plateau. Your arrival is marked by a cairn, but this is not the top of Sheeffry East. Head southeast along the plateau for a couple of hundred metres to reach another small cairn that marks the summit propper. This is a great place to appreciate the suddenly expansive views. The Sheeffry ridge stretches away to the west, with Mweelrea peeping behind. To the south and east lie the countless summits of Connemara, with the clustered peaks of the Maumturks and Twelve Bens clearly visible. Set against the backdrop of the Atlantic coastline, it all makes for a memorable panorama. Once you’ve had your fill of the view, it’s time to think about the descent. Care is needed in poor visibility to ensure you descend along the correct ridge. Head to the eastern end of the plateau and descend along a grassy spur. The ground steepens just before you reach a col, but the step is easily bypassed on the right. There is now a fine view south into Glenlaur, which comes complete with a long waterfall tumbling down the headwall of the corrie. As you reach the col, the lake of Lugaloughaun come into sight to the north. Now climb the rise ahead, crossing hummocky

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ground strewn with rocks and pools. Arc northeastward as you climb, keeping to the highest ground. The waters of Lough Lugacolliwee are only revealed at the very northern tip of the mountain, nestling at the base of steep cliffs below. Now head north, descending along the spur between Lugaloughaun and Lough Lugacolliwee. The slope is grassy and provides little difficulty. As you progress you can pick out your return route below. Near the bottom of the ridge, veer northeast towards Lugaloughaun. Carefully cross two fences to reach the lake shore, then follow the edge of the lough to its northern tip. From here there’s a final 1.5km back across the bog to return to your start point. Head northwest, keeping west of the fence and forestry plantation, aiming to rejoin the road where you left it. It’s then a simple matter to return through the gate and rejoin your vehicle.

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his second stage of the Dublin Mountains Way is from Kilternan Village to Killakee, as we follow in the footsteps of a fabled Viking raiding party.

…out of the early morning sea mist a Viking longboat emerged, the only sound was the gentle splash of its oars as the oarsmen pulled against the current. Standing at the ship’s prow was a Viking warrior, steadying himself he held onto the carved masthead, with his other hand he grasped the hilt of his sword, as he peered beneath the rim of his helmet into the mist he suddenly cried out, “Land Ohy!” It was in the late spring of 811 when the longboat gently beached below tall sedimentary cliffs near Shankill, sean chill, ‘old church’ An

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earlier expedition had returned from Ireland with tales of a great monastery founded by Saint Maelruain at Tallaght, and this raiding party had returned with plans of pillage and plunder. As the Vikings trekked inland they attacked the church at Rathmichael but the monks and local farmers defended their settlement from within its ringfort. The Vikings with greater spoils awaiting, pressed on and camped that night by a stream at the bottom of a great chasm, not knowing the monastic settlement of Killegar was on the heights above but the undefended church of St. Tiernan lay on the route of their bloody march inland…

!"##$%&'#('#)"'*#+,# From the east, take the M50/M11 to Exit 16 onto the N11 to follow the R116 to Kilternan Village, from Dundrum follow the R117 or

from Dublin take a 44, 63,118 bus or check www.dublinmountains.ie for the timetable of the Dublin Mountaineer Bus Service.

-(.#" From Kilternan ‘Cill Tiarnáin’ Village follow the R116 Ballybetagh Road towards Glencullen, where the road turns sharp left, a short detour along Bishops Lane discovers on the high ground above a stream, an ancient burial ground and the ruins of the church of St. Tiernan, alas of his life and times nothing is known! On a nearby hillside is the Kilternan dolmen, a national monument dating from about 2500BC. It is a single chamber megalithic tomb with a capstone over 6m long, weighing over 40 tons, it is the second largest dolmen

capstone in Ireland but disappointingly it is not accessible! Continue to follow the Way uphill to Glencullen Village but take great care as the road is narrow, winding and busy with vehicular traffic. Although on tarmac, there are still wonders to behold, as the road climbs and turns west below Newtown Hill: In the valley to the south is Ballybetagh Bog which is known internationally as the ‘Graveyard of the Giant Irish Deer’, the male deer had huge antlers up to four metres in width, the largest of any known deer. Due to climatic conditions these magnificent animals became extinct over 12,000 years ago. Early maps show a small lake in this area and in 1847 during a drought, an effort was made to obtain water for the nearby Kilternan Mills by cutting a deep trench down through the bog. It was during this operation that the bones and huge antlers of the giant deer or ‘Irish Elk’ were first discovered. Such vast quantities of bones, skulls and antlers have been discovered, the site is now recognised as

one of the most important in Europe for the remains of this long extinct species. As the road crests the hill into Glencullen village passing the ruins of an old church built in 1824 that had weathered many a storm but for reasons that remain unclear, a decision was made to build a new church in 1908 just down the road…curious? Before turning right at Johnny Foxes Pub, notice in the golf course across the road, an Iron Age, quartz standing stone reputed to have magical powers, known locally as Queen Mab. The route follows the Ballyedmonduff Road for 3km before climbing into Ticknock forest at Carthys Green. In truth, there is a daunting amount of road walking on this stage of the route; from the Scalp to Carthys Green is 9km on tarmac! Perhaps a better option than starting from Kilternan on this stage might be Ticknock Wood GR.168.242 offering ample car parking and following the access road to the RTE and other assorted masts on the summit, before joining the Dublin Mountain Way.

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!"#$%&"' “From the trig pillar on the cairn there is without a doubt the most magnificent 360 degree panorama of Dublin city, the Irish Sea and the Dublin and Wicklow Mountains.”

Taking this alternative route, it is a pleasant climb among mature forest passing on the right, a clearing above the old Eastern Command rifle range with views across Kellystown Glen to Kilmashogue Mountain. Cresting the hill where the tarmac ends, the D.M.W. waymarked trail comes in on the left as it ascends from Carthys Green to reach the summit of Three Rock Mountain 449m for the most wonderful views of Dublin Bay, Howth and on a clear day, perhaps a glimpse of Snowdonia’s peaks across the Irish Sea. Directly below are the twin embracing arms of Dun Laoghaire harbour with Scotsman’s Bay separated from Killiney Bay by the headland of Sorrento Point with Dalkey Island just out of sight. On the most northerly of the three weathered granite tors that give this side of the mountain its name are two recently unrecorded Early Christian crosses. As the track swings south to descend into the forest, views of Bray Head, Little and Great Sugar Loaf Mountains appear. Continue for 2km on this undulating track to emerge through a tunnel of trees onto the open mountainside, looking across Glencullen (Valley of the Holly) to the mountains of Prince Williams Seat, Knocknagun and Glendoo, atop this long summit ridge runs the Dublin/Wicklow county border. Climb alongside the forest until

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above the tree line, the two rocky outcrops that give this side of the mountain its name come into view i.e. Two Rock Mountain which along with Three Rock Mountain and Fairy Castle, give this mountain an undue assortment of names as during the 16th century it was simply known as Slieve Rua, ‘red mountain’. The hard climbing is now over and it is a gentle stroll across open moorland to the summit cairn of Fairy Castle at 537metres, the highest point on the Dublin Mountain Way. This Bronze Age cairn is much larger than it first appears as it is mostly covered by peat and heather, below is the remains of a passage tomb, the most easterly of a series of such tombs that stretches across the Dublin and North Wicklow Mountains. There is no evidence that the tomb has ever been opened and archaeologists believe that the interior may contains a small burial chamber. From the trig pillar on the cairn there is without a doubt the most magnificent 360 degree panorama of Dublin city, the Irish Sea and the Dublin and Wicklow Mountains. As the ubiquitous fellow once said, “It’s all downhill from here!” and the way heads west on a pleasant downhill to join the Wicklow Way, so be sure to follow the ‘Yellow Man’ with the D.M.W. designation. The way now crosses open mountainside on a ridge following

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a specially constructed trail featuring a bog bridge, stone staircases and drainage runoffs, before entering a pine forest to easily reach the summit of Tirbradden Mountain 470m. There is an excavated megalithic site here but is it all it appears? The passage is too narrow, the inner chamber too circular, the relief on the inscribed stone too sharp! Is this the remains of a 19th century megalithic folly? There is however an inscribed Christian Cross hidden among the boulders just south of the summit; could there have been a mass rock here? Descending from the open mountainside into beautiful mature pine forest to reach the car park of Tirbradden Recreational Area, which offers another start/ finish option. Leave Tirbradden Forest and cross the road onto a forest track alongside the Owenthrasna River…a lovely setting for a picnic lunch before climbing the eastern shoulder of Cruagh Mountain to a viewing point over Dublin City with the Papal Cross in the Phoenix Park clearly visible. The Way leaves Cruagh Wood through a grove of Larch, on a meandering trail that brought back childhood memories of Hansel and Gretel leaving a trail of breadcrumbs to the witch’s house! After crossing a stile to follow the Glendoo Brook, notice a crudely engraved moss covered stone that pays tribute to the renowned naturalist H. C. Hart who in 1886 wagered fifty guineas with his fellow-naturalist R. M. Barrington that he could walk the 111km between the tram terminus at Terenure in Dublin to the summit of Lugnaquilla Mountain in Wicklow and return to Terenure

in under 24 hours! Hart, accompanied by Sir Frederick Cullinan, left Terenure at 10.58pm on 20 June 1886 and arrived back at 10.58pm the next evening, successfully completing a very challenging trek. The inscription on the stone reads: H.C. Harters 27/5/11 and as Hart died in 1908 this stone was probably engraved one hundred years ago in 1911 by a group following his route. One wonders did they complete his challenge in the allotted 24 hours? Back on tarmac, cross the bridge for a short stroll to Killakee car park to finish this second stage of the Dublin Mountain Way. …as the Vikings trekked inland they laid waste to the undefended St. Tiernan Church and any small settlements they chanced upon. That night

the raiders camped by a stream in a great oak forest overlooking the plain of Baile Atha Cliath and prepared for the following day’s assault on the great monastery founded by Saint Maelruain at Tallaght.

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of the Mourne and Batts walls across the highest ground. A quick note about the reservoir itself. Like the other great hydro-engineering works in the Mournes the Spelga project was built to provide water, in this instance for the populations of the Newry and Banbridge areas. The idea of creating a reservoir here was mooted as long ago as 1845 but it wasn’t until a century later that work finally got under way. It was completed in 1957 and had a total storage capacity of 2.7 billion litres. Later work in 1965 increased the capacity to 3.3 billion litres, adding automatic safety measures to draw off excess water in times of heavy rainfall.

!"##$%&'#('#)"'*#+,# The route starts from a large parking area on the B27 Hilltown-Kilkeel road, just one hundred metres or so uphill from Spelga Dam (GR J 267,273). There are public toilets here, but this is a remote area so be wary of leaving anything valuable in your car.

-)"'.+/0 Cross the main road to a large metal gate almost directly opposite the parking area. Climb over the gate and follow a stony track uphill for a short distance before veering off to the left along a conspicuous grassy track, which leads almost directly to the nearby summit of Slievenamuck. From here there are already good views south across the

reservoir and northeast across the flanks of Slieve Meelmore and Slieve Meelbeg. Now descend in an easterly direction over rough ground, aiming for a small parking area on the Slievenaman Road. Turn left onto the road and walk a short distance downhill, then turn right onto a track that takes you on a slanting ascent around the northern flanks of Ott Mountain. Here you have a choice: either leave the track early, cross the top of Ott Mountain, and then make directly for the 588m-high summit of Carn Mountain. Or, perhaps preferably, continue along the track all the way to the col between Slieve Lough Shannagh and Carn Mountain. Here you meet the Mourne Wall, which you can follow southwest to the top of Carn Mountain. From Carn you get your first really good views into the heart of the Silent Valley and across the deep bowl holding Lough Shannagh to the conspicuous summit of Doan. It’s also a good vantage point from which to appreciate the steep, craggy eastern face of Slieve Muck. From the summit of Carn the wall swings due west and you lose about 50m in height as you drop into a boggy col. Follow the wall as it veers round to the south and begins the long, gradual ascent of Slieve Muck’s northern shoulder. In good weather this is a delightful bit of walking. The ground is interesting but not i G G G G G G G Gw difficult, U

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or most walkers, planning a route in the Mournes extends only as far as considering the high peaks in the area. This compact knot of mountains makes up the eastern half of the range and includes all of the highest and best known summits, arcing around the Silent and Annalong valleys in a giant m-shape. However, there is plenty to reward walkers who choose to think outside the box, or outside the ‘m’ in this case. The summits of the western Mournes may lack the grandeur of their famous eastern cousins, but they do not lack for quality walking or views. OK, so this route does dip a toe into the eastern half of the range by taking in Slieve Muck, but its essence is very much one of the western Mournes. The trip itself makes an almost perfect circle around the Spelga Reservoir. The starting point may be unusually high at 350m and the summit heights might be modest, but the individual climbs add up to a pretty significant total ascent and descent. This is not a particularly easy route physically, but there is the opportunity to cut the route short when you come down onto the B27 road between Slieve Muck and Pigeon Rock Mountain. However you should note that it isn’t possible to walk across Spelga Dam itself. Although there is some rough, tussocky ground on the route, the terrain is largely straightforward. There are tracks or informal paths in many places, and the guiding handrail

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wall and fence, pick up a path that is part of the Mourne Way. Turn right and follow this path down to a footbridge and then up a steep rocky slope to a wooden stile and the B27 Hilltown-Kilkeel road. Now turn right and follow the road uphill for approximately a kilometre to return to the parking area and finish at Spelga Dam.

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while the gradient is gentle enough to allow you to enjoy the ever-expanding views across the high Mournes. The top of Slieve Muck is almost pan flat, marked by a junction of the Mourne Wall and Batts Wall, and a nearby triangulation pillar. At 674m it is the eighth highest summit in the Mournes, and the views are as dramatic as you would expect. Cross the wall using the stile and follow Batts Wall west. The slope soon steepens as you pick your way down to the B27 Hilltown-Kilkeel road at approximately 370m. Go straight over the road, cross a stile, and then follow the continuation of Batts Wall up the northeast shoulder of Pigeon Rock Mountain. An effort of 20 to 30 minutes should see you at Pigeon’s small summit cairn. Here you must leave the handrail of Batts Wall and strike out northwest towards the summit of Cock Mountain, with its cluster of rock outcrops. Descend along the northwest shoulder of Pigeon, enjoying some fine views down the Rocky River valley towards Hilltown and the patchwork of fields beyond. There is a faintly worn path across the broad col between

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Pigeon and Cock, so progress is fairly easy, and you’ll quickly find yourself climbing toward the summit of Cock Mountain. The top itself is marked by slabs of exposed rock, a modest cairn, and great views across the intriguing summit tors of Hen Mountain. Now descend northeast to the subsidiary summit of Slievenamiskan. Continue down more steeply, heading almost due north towards the rocky course of the River Bann. At a boundary

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822813). If you’re coming from Killarney, it’s probably easier to follow the Gap of Dunloe Road into the Black Valley.

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he Gearhameen River gushes of Mullaghanattin and north to the Reeks – from the remote Lough Duff, jagged against the sky. high on the flanks of Stumpa At 12km, this isn’t a long walk, but it’s no Duloigh, and then plummets pushover either. It crosses plenty of steep and headlong down to Lough Reah often rough ground and at its furthest point and the lake-studded Black Valley via one the it feels very remote. As the raven flies it’s less most impressive glens in the South West. than 10km from the Reeks, but in character, Guarded by steep craggy slopes and towered it’s very different. over by rugged peaks, this is a modest valley !"##$%&'#('#)"'*#+,# that guards its secrets well, only revealing its From Moll’s Gap, on the N71, take the true beauty to those bold enough to venture R568 west towards Sneem and then bear well off the beaten track. immediately right to drop into the Owenreagh But there are signs of what’s on offer if you Valley. Go right and follow this road around look hard enough: the imposing, angular into the Black Valley. Bear left after the profiles of the summits that make up the junction with the Gap of Dunloe Road and headwall are easily visible from the shores of continue with the huge loughs on your right. Lough Cummeenduff; and the impressive Continue over the Gearhameen River and cascade that tumbles from the remote upper the Cummeenduff River twice. Just after coom can be clearly seen from the approach. this second bridge over the Cummeenduff, By the time you start up the faint track that you’ll see a small parking area on the left (V breeches its lower reaches, you’ll be in no doubt you're somewhere special. It starts steep but the top of the z Gk initial climb quickly brings respite, as well as the first real views up the glen. And the next few kilometres slip by effortlessly as you trace the line of the troubled waterway and it races down the hillside. The next obstacle is a steep and grassy pull from the valley floor to the broad ridge above. From here, it’s skyline walking all the way with tremendous views over the glen at your feet as well as south to the distinctive bulk

Walk back towards the Black Valley and cross the Cummeenduff River before turning right onto a rough track. Follow this up to another gate by some sheep enclosures and bear left through another gate onto another rough track. This continues out into the open, gradually reducing to little more than a faint rocky path that leads across boggy ground to some sheepfolds. Bear left here and contour around the foot of the steep slope until you reach the banks of the Gearhameen River. Turn right to climb steeply, over rough ground, with the waterfall to your left. As you reach the top, you’ll meet a faint path coming in from your right. Bear left onto this and follow it between small crags and out onto the open floor of the magnificent glen. This marks the start of some much easier going as you follow the faint path up into the valley, crossing a few rough rocky patches as you go. The going eventually steepens again, close to where a good-sized tributary joins the river from the north. Continue steeply up to the top of this section and then, as the ground eases once more, cross the river and start to make your way up the broad spur that runs south-east towards the spot-height of 568m. It looks impossibly steep but there are many

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narrow terraces and sheep tracks that ease things a little. The best line seems to trend eastwards slightly, cutting almost back on yourself, to cross an obvious bright green gully near the top. This brings you to a boggy saddle a few metres to the east of the spot height. Bear right onto the ridge and you’ll pick up a faint path that will act as your guide for the next few kilometres. Climb up over the spot height and drop slightly into another saddle, where you’ll meet a fence. The easiest passage follows the other side of the fence for a few metres before stepping back over to keep it on your left as you start the steep assault on the main peaks ahead. Again, it looks very steep as you approach but things aren’t quite as bad in reality and a clear path follows the fence up onto the easier ground at the top. Most of the work is over now so enjoy the airy ridge as you stride easily north-west and then north-east over Stumpa Duloigh, the highpoint of the whole walk. The steep descent from the 776m, northern summit, requires care but the path is clear and easy to follow. Continue north around Lough Duff and then follow the faint path as it bears right to start along the northern wall of the valley. This is lovely walking with fine views in all directions; particularly over Cummeenduff to the Macgillycuddy’s Reeks. A few steep steps call for some concentration but in general it’s easy going for a kilometre or so now. Eventually you’ll reach the scree-covered saddle that separates the ridge you’re on from the steep slopes of Broaghnabinnia. Bear right and head down, crossing rough ground by following the line of the brook marked on the map. Continue onto easier ground and then contour east around the slope until you reach the rim of the steeper section that carries the waterfall. At this stage you are still a good 50m higher than the river and you should be able to easily locate the head of a broad gully, which drops steeply down, running parallel to the waterfall. Follow this and it will eventually bring you out close to the sheep folds at the place where you left the main track earlier in the day. Keep straight ahead to locate the track, then follow it easily back to the road. Bear left across the bridge to the finish.

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y main impression after having climbed to the top of Mount Everest at last is one of humility and relief. Six expeditions over eleven years spent climbing this mountain has been a real labour of love you might say, but Everest never became my nemesis. The experiences and dramas on those high slopes have all been memorable and rewarding, and have fulfilled my lifelong passion for climbing. Sitting on the summit for an hour on the 20th of May was worth all that effort, and there’s no doubt that the perseverance made it all the more emotional. I sat there with Pasang Tendi Sherpa, the man who saved my life at the Second Step in 2007, and we just hugged and laughed and cried. I thought about my parents and the people I love, and about how the best things come to those who wait. Mostly I was supremely and stupidly happy. I am one of those people who believe that standing on top of big mountains is in essence a rather selfish and pointless achievement, but it is a passion that I am unable to deny in myself. The undiluted elation I feel in the mountains is something visceral and profound, yet unexplainable and illogical. What I ‘get’ on the top is something I take down with me, and it affects the way I think about life. In that respect, Everest has become more of a mentor, and it has given me some very special friendships along the way. Mallory got it right when he replied “Because’s it’s

there” when asked why he wanted to climb Everest; the flippancy acknowledges that at the end of the day it’s just a mountain, but I believe he is also saying that he simply cannot articulate his motivations to climb. And of course, there is something of the ‘If you have to ask, you don’t deserve to know.’ But Mallory gave a more telling comment in an article he wrote in 1916 while on the Western Front: “Have we vanquished an enemy?” he posed the question to himself of a climb of Mont Blanc in 1911, to which he answered “None but ourselves”. Perhaps it was at this point that climbing a high peak became an analogy for motivation and success, which has resulted in an unfortunate and annoying tendency for some people to come back from the top of Everest somehow transformed into a ‘motivational speaker’, stamping up and down the stage exhorting the audience that ‘They can do it!”. Inevitably this characteristic stems from some kind of self-delusion that is transparently needy and unattractive. Personally I think that my parents being married for 53 years is inspirational, and they don’t feel the need to crow about it. The love of the mountains has been in me for a very long time. Since a young age I have walked in the hills and enjoyed the different disciplines of rock climbing (Fair Head during my University years), Scottish winter

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!"#$#%& climbing (weekends during University, hitching from Belfast to Fort William), Alpine climbing (with socks on my hands and sleeping rough in Chamonix) and eventually the Greater Ranges. I did my exams and became qualified to lead groups, thus combining job with hobby in a way that seemed to tick a lot of boxes. I read climbing literature and kept cuttings of great climbs that made national news and had the fortune to meet heroes like Doug Scott. He and I once shared a stage in Birmingham after my climb of Everest

in 2005; afterwards he shook my hand and asked “You climbed to the summit wi’out oxygen from Camp Two and no stoppin’?”. “Yes”, I replied. There was a long pause. “”No’ bad” said the great man. I walked on clouds for the rest of the day. I have always been influenced by pioneering climbers like him, quiet men who never resorted to aggressive self-confidence or a combative all-conquering attitude; they didn’t trumpet about how great they were. They did it for the love of what they were doing, and they became great after a long

period of learning and practise. I have been through that same apprenticeship and the feeling of standing on top of Everest was greatly heightened because of it. Thirty years of my hill walking and mountaineering was distilled into those last few metres to the top of the world, and I found it indescribably emotional. But I have felt for a long time that I needed some extra motivation to go off and leave loved ones at home for eight weeks at a time. The reality is, regardless of what the socalled motivational speakers would have you

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“Standing on top of big mountains is in essence a rather selfish and pointless achievement, but it is a passion that I am unable to deny in myself.” believe, that these long trips are defined by loneliness and often boredom sitting at a base camp for weeks at a time; long periods of inactivity are interspersed with short periods of intense and often dangerous activity. You have to immerse yourself into a ‘mountain mode’, a simple existence which I personally find deeply fulfilling. I think my favourite place to sleep will always be in a tent. But over the years I used my climbs of Everest to raise money for the charity I started called Moving Mountains, which is now a large organisation successfully carrying out social and environmental projects in Kenya, Nepal and Borneo. Climbing Everest became synonymous with my charity, and it was easy to create the analogy, but it ticked a much bigger box in my mind. I took the view that if my adventures could benefit many people through the fundraising potential, then I would consider it all the more worthwhile. But boy, has it taken some time! Five times I was prevented from summiting by an unforeseen event on the summit day itself, five times to within a few hundred metres of the top. I take the pragmatic view that no descent should ever be

regretted as long as you come back home safely and I have climbed for many years with mentors like Steve Pinfield (who is of the Doug Scott ilk) and had a long time to have sound mountaineering principles seep into my bones. A big source of pride is that I organised all my own climbs on Everest and the Seven Summits, and that three of them were without the use of bottled oxygen. But while oxygen is what keeps you alive up in that nocuous atmosphere, it has also been a liability to me. In 2005 I turned back 100 metres from the top because there was a queue of people at the Hillary Step and I knew that without supplementary oxygen I could not afford to stop and wait. In 2009 I had two clients on the south side and everything went well until about 8600 metres, when my oxygen mask froze and I had severe hypoxia. That was my fifth descent from just below the summit! In 2002 I climbed the north side with my friend Will Canning, without oxygen and without Sherpas. A hundred metres from the summit Will dislocated his kneecap and it took us three days to get back to Base Camp, inching down the immense north face with Will hanging on my back like a limpet and all our gear dangling off my harness in several sacks. It was a tremendous effort of will power and perseverance, and I

still don’t know how we did it, but it is an epic mountaineering memory. Three days without sleep, food or water, and Will was heroic in handling the pain. My first time on Everest in 2000 was part of a Seven Summits Millennium Expedition to climb the peaks inside one calendar year, all self-organised and self-funded. I climbed all the peaks, but turned back at the south summit of Everest. I have to say that the achievement of organising myself and 140 people to join me on their chosen Seven Summit gave me by far the biggest sense of fulfilment. Nowadays, ‘Seven Summiteers’ tend to buy in the logistics and guiding from companies just like my own, but you have to wonder at the social trend they are following, since an increasing number have little or no climbing history. I’m all for ambitious goals and a can-do attitude, but it runs the risk of devaluing the entire business if it perpetuates the belief that these challenges can be achieved without years of training and experience. I spend a lot of time advising people on how to achieve their dream with a structured approach to climbing the bigger peaks. In 2007 I tried to complete a non-stop traverse of Mount Everest without oxygen and using no camps. I had previously been climbing Cho Oyu, the sixth highest peak in the world and just thirty miles away. After three months at high altitude I left the north side base camp to attempt my journey from Tibet to Nepal via the summit, but at the

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base of the Second Step (8600m) suffered an alarming pulmonary oedema. This was followed quickly by hypothermia. Suddenly, out of the swirling mist came Pasang Tendi Sherpa who clapped an oxygen mask on my face and we were able to descend down to safety. As an insurance policy, I couldn’t fault it. People ask me why I chose to climb the mountain in such a way and the answer is that I am driven by the aesthetic of high altitude mountaineering. I like the idea of ‘doing more with less’, of challenging myself on these peaks without artificial aid, and I think this comes from my appreciation of climbers like Doug Scott and Erhard Loretan. Then there is Dougal Haston whose seminal work ‘The Philosophy of Risk’ is required reading for aspirant climbers, as would be ‘Above the Clouds’ by Anatoli Boukreev and ‘Beyond the Mountain’ by the more contemporary Steve House. I am influenced by these great people, without a doubt. While I’m on the subject of books, ‘Mountains of the Mind’ by Robert MacFarlane will thrill the blood of any lover of the hills. This year I was back on the south side with two Canadian clients, Michael and Dave, who were really great company. They were not at all full of self–importance, and were willing to learn about the special challenges that Everest presents. What a pleasure that was. They had respect for the mountain, and more importantly than summiting, they came away from the expedition as better climbers. Everest is very difficult, of that nobody should ever be in any doubt. It’s not as technical as some of the other 8000 metre peaks, but it has many features that make it much more dangerous. Principal amongst these is the fact that on Everest you are required to sleep at 8000 metres.

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“I’m sceptical of anthropomorphising mountains and turning their summits into conquests.” Physiologically this is the altitude where the human body deteriorates rapidly and the body starts to prioritise the head and the heart, the area known as the Death Zone. I don’t believe the phrase is melodramatic rhetoric, it is not an easy place to live. The sense of exposure on the final summit day is immense, regardless of how many people are up there at the same time. Being at such extreme altitude requires a high degree of self-preservation in a very hostile environment. Oxygen provides energy and warmth, but the process of decision-making is critical. This is why Everest guides are employed, to use their experience to make the right call when it is necessary. Those decisions are cumulative, building up over many weeks; I visualise it as so many strands coming together on summit day to create a rope that will get us to the top! And that’s

notwithstanding the all important factor of luck, which is very important on a summit day like that. This year all my decisions were correct, thankfully, and this time there were no unforeseen incidents on the summit day. We had great weather and I felt very comfortable the whole way. In our guiding courses we are taught about heuristic thinking, which is a process of problem-solving which leads to a holistic and interlaced knowledge. Funnily enough, the knowledge I have gained over the years gives me both a sense of quiet confidence, but also a heightened sense of caution and respect. For example, the Khumbu Icefall is objectively a highly dangerous part of the climb, a great frozen waterfall in a state of constant collapse. Seracs and ice blocks tumble all day and night, and avalanches are

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almost a daily occurrence. The question is, does your probability of being caught out increase or remain exactly the same the more times you go up and down the Icefall? Statisticians tell me that the likelihood is exactly the same every time I go through it, but try telling that to yourself when you’re on your 50th visit! You can’t help but think that the chances have increased, and that makes me more cautious as I get older. So, standing on the top gave me a sense of closure, but in no way diminished my desire to get out there and climb more mountains. There is no sense of having reached a pinnacle; it’s all a journey. They say that you will never

be the same after climbing Everest, but I’m sceptical of anthropomorphising mountains and turning their summits into conquests. I think it’s good to put these things into perspective and just be happy that I did something I like doing. And hopefully the memory of what I have seen and experienced higher up will positively influence the way I conduct myself lower down.

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!"#$%&& !"#$%&& The first and most important point to remember with any fitness programme is that you should aim primarily for health and not, for example, losing weight at any cost. Remaining healthy should then become a way of life. With walking, age is no barrier; it is adaptable to all kinds of people, and it’s one of the best exercises you can do. When you are not doing other exercise, simply go for a brisk walk. It strengthens the cardiovascular system, tones muscles and increases flexibility, reduces stress and burns fat, while placing a minimum amount of strain on your body.

'%&&(&#)%&& A walker’s foot is loaded with one to one and a half times body weight each time it strikes the ground, in contrast with running, which places three to four times the body weight with each stride. As a result, walking results in fewer injuries. At the same time, perhaps surprisingly, walking a mile burns the same number of calories as running the same distance. Brisk walking with a moderate 10 degree incline burns more calories than jogging 5 miles an hour!

*+%()",+#(-"# Fitness walking is often used by athletes as a component of an effective crosstraining programme. It compliments cycling, swimming and running. In combination with a light weighttraining programme, it can often achieve transforming results. Walking combined with weight-training is the perfect choice for losing excess fat and weight. Walking burns fat for energy, whereas other activities will run on carbohydrate, which burns ‘short-term’ energy.

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!""#$%&"$'()* One hour of brisk walking burns an average of 348 calories and one pound of fat equals 3,500 calories, so if you look at it this way, 348 calories every day for 365 days equals 127,020 calories. Divide that by three and a half thousand and that could mean 36 pounds lost in one year!

+",)*$&-.$%-$.,#/0 Walking briskly, changing your stride every mile to avoid back or hip strain will help to firm the legs and bottom. Try walking heel-to-toe rather than shuffling your feet along. Walking correctly will help make your session easier and avoid shin and calf strain.

1%,2$#--3" What often slows you down is tightening in the hips and shoulders. Walking too upright with no flexibility in the lower back. If you observe some walkers you will see that their stride is not a relaxed movement. The arms may swing but the shoulders donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t move. To see the correct way your body should move to avoid long-term damage, watch a baby crawl. Left shoulder and right leg move in unison - a sort of â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;John Wayneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; swagger. This movement takes a lot of pressure off the neck and lower back; when you get used to the movement you will glide with less strain and more grace. It also works your waist really well. Walking heel-to-toe, rolling from the heel gently forward, takes the pressure off the back of your foot and avoids metatarsal strain. It also helps avoid shin splints. Just one simple movement can save you years of unnecessary pain. Also, do not over stretch before the walk, as when your body is cold you could do more damage. The most effective time to stretch is at the end of your walk. Holding each stretch for 15 seconds, no more, if the calves are

tight gently lower your heels down from a step or stairs letting your heels go down as far as possible and return to starting position.

4,/"$5%$,$4,),%&-* The marathon has traditionally been the preserve of runners, but it provides a great challenge for walkers too, and most events, like the National Lottery Dublin Marathon, which this year takes place on October 31s,, welcome walkers (this year the Dublin course will stay open for seven hours) - so why not take on the classic distance? To build up effectively for a long walk such as a marathon, keep a training diary and aim to consistently complete four miles in one hour. When this gets easy, step the pace up a little but donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t break into a jog. As with all training, the secret to achieving your targets is to build up gradually, progressively towards the level of endurance and speed you want to achieve on the day. To make steady progress, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s important that your training doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t become an ordeal. Make it enjoyable! Find a route that is good for you. If you live near a park or even a beach, you probably have the perfect training ground at your doorstep; ideal to facilitate high oxygen intake in the clean air, which will in turn burn off more calories. Get yourself a good pair of runners or walking shoes and donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t use shoes that are ancient or hurt your feet; get advice from staff at a good, specialist store who will observe you walking on a treadmill and advise which shoes are best. Get your plan ready. Start slowly and get a walking partner and go out in all

weathers, rain, hail or snow. Make sure you stay hydrated, but donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t drink gallons of water because taking too much water expels too much salt from the body. Stay hydrated.

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or more than 25 years, Adi Roche has been one of the most inspiring figures in Irish life. A tireless campaigner and fundraiser, in 1986 she began working on behalf of children affected by the Chernobyl nuclear disaster, and founded the Chernobyl Children Project five years later. Since then the charity has delivered over 85 million in aid and has brought over 20,000 children to Ireland for respite in Irish homes. In November last year, Adi was awarded what has been described as the ‘Nobel Prize for Children’, at the World of Children Awards Ceremony in New York. In 2004 she was the keynote speaker at a United Nations General Session commemorating the Chernobyl disaster. In the same year she was featured in the Academy Award-winning film Chernobyl Heart. A native of Clonmel, Tipperary, she lives in Cork, with her husband Sean Dunne. “I discovered walking – and something about myself – when Sean and I took part in a CND Walk for Peace in France. We trekked right across the Jura Mountains, covering 25 miles a day for 2 weeks, camping or sleeping in barns. It was exhausting, but it changed my life. At the end of it I found I was invigorated mentally and physically. On that walk I was surrounded by people from all over the world, and my mind was opened to all their struggles. Everyone had their own personal reasons for walking, and everyone made their own discoveries. Mine was the realisation that I’m very competitive; every day from 8am when we set off, I found myself at the front. It was a ‘Road to Damascus’ moment for me – I was walking away from all my cares and troubles. The only things I had to worry about were blisters and where was I getting my lunch. By the end of it I just wanted to keep on walking – and I’ve never stopped since. I made a pact with myself, that I would walk for an hour and a half, three times a week. And I do. Everything in my life has to be structured, or it simply doesn’t happen. Walking became my favourite pastime, and now it’s essential for my emotional and psychological well-being. My shoulders are narrow, and walking helps me keep the show on the road. It’s a therapeutic thing - I grab my shoes and head out for what I call a ‘sanity walk’. Sometimes if there’s an obstacle in my life, I’ll literally write it on the soles of my shoes and walk it off. Until I can do that, I’m liked a caged animal. I have a tendency to overwork, and walking helps me control that. I live in Cork City and work mostly

from home, so that’s where I walk. I grab my sunglasses, throw a pair of shorts and a hat on, and I’m off. I have two pairs of trainers and every Christmas I get a new pair. Sometimes I’ll bring a radio and listen to Lyric FM. I like to concentrate on my breathing. Usually it’s near Collins Barracks at Camp Field or Montenotte. I adore it! For the first half mile of my walks my feet feel as though they’re not touching the ground. I let my body find its own pace. I walk the same way I do everything - never a stroll, always at a gallop; to me, walking slowly is more exhausting. But we have a summer home near Ballyferriter on Dingle, and when I’m there, life is less regimented. There’s all kinds of walking around there; hills, flat areas, and of course fabulous views of the Blaskets, the Three Sisters, beaches, ocean - everything. I take of my shoes and socks and speed walk on the beach, which I just adore doing. I love to have companions to walk with in Kerry. I’m great friends with the singer Mary Black and we walk a lot together; singing, laughing and talking non-stop. We take in all the local archaeological sites, the harbour, the hills, then sit at the top of Three Sisters and eat chocolate. Perfect! I’m not sure whether exercise represents training or relaxation to me, but I think it’s both. I can’t imagine not walking; if I’m going away somewhere, I have to mentally prepare for not walking. I love the movement of the body, the feeling of my heart thumping in my chest - even the business of preparing for a walk!

How would I sell walking? It allows you to feel physically, emotionally and mentally better at zero cost. That’s so important at a time like this, when the country is reeling from the effect of recession and unemployment, with all the depression and feelings of hopelessness that go with it. Walking can bring mental wellbeing to so many people; it gets you out into the elements, to feel the joy of sun or rain. And it tones every muscle in your body - I wouldn’t touch a gym now. Just step outside and you can walk off your problems, get things into perspective and reconnect with your surroundings.”

Join Team Chernobyl by signing up today for the Dublin Marathon and support children from the Chernobyl regions who desperately need lifesaving heart surgeries.

!"#$%&'%!"#$%'()%*+,%-#.$/ Sign up today and receive your sponsorship pack, please contact us on 0214312999 or e-mail info@chernobylireland.com You will also be entered into a draw for a Toshiba Laptop Computer. For more information visit our website at www.chernobyl-international.com

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Consider the Frog - and his cousins

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ave you ever stopped to consider a frog? A frog is an amphibian and amphibians are very weird creatures. Their weirdness dates back to that intermediate stage in evolution when animals were trying to decide whether they should stay in the water or climb out and colonise the land. Nearly all frog species start life as tadpoles which are water creatures with no legs and with gills for extracting oxygen from water. Then they change their minds. Their gills shrivel up and are replaced by lungs for extracting oxygen from air and they sprout legs and take to the land. This makes them left-overs from the late Devonian Era, which was 360 million years ago. In more recent times frogs and humans have developed complex relationships. There’s a town in eastern France called Vittel and every year around the beginning of May it holds a festival called the Foire aux Grenouilles. There’s lots of entertainment and cultural stuff at the festival but it’s

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centred on a celebration of frogs - or, more precisely, on eating the hind legs of frogs. Recently a group of international wildlife conservation organisations issued a report which, amongst other things, attacked this French festival. The report is called ‘Canapes to Extinction - the international trade in frogs’ legs and its ecological impact.’ The report contained some strange facts. It claimed that there is a large scale industry that is systematically devastating frog populations throughout the world and that this is also causing widespread damage to natural eco-systems. It sounds like a wild conspiracy theory until you consider the facts.

!"#$%&'( The United States imports an average of 2,280 tons of frog’s legs every year and it takes up to a billion frogs to provide that many legs. In addition 2,216 tons of live frogs are imported, largely for the AsianAmerican market. The EU has an even

greater appetite for them and imports 4,600 tons of legs a year. France, Belgium and the Netherlands are the top European importers. Wild frogs are protected throughout the EU, including Ireland, which is why they have to be imported. Frogs are farmed intensively in China, Taiwan and Vietnam and the US gets its imports from a number of different countries. But 84% of European imports come from Indonesia and the bulk of these frogs are captured in the wild. Interestingly the world frog trade was dominated by India and Bangladesh up until the mid 1980s. But then their wild frog populations declined and, as they did so, there were plagues of the insects that the frogs preyed on. This resulted in a massive increase in insecticide usage, which had a negative impact on the natural environment. The situation became so serious that the governments of both countries banned the export of frogs, leaving Indonesia to fill the vacuum in the market. There have been other negative effects

from the world frog trade. When live frogs are transported from one country to another some of them inevitably escape and then they have the potential to become invasive species causing ecological damage and disruption. The Common Coqui, a frog from Puerto Rica, has invaded parts of the United States and is now listed among the world’s top 100 invasive species. The Cane Toad is a serious pest in parts of Australia.

!"#$%&'()*+*, Trading frogs also spreads diseases. All over the world amphibians are being decimated by a disease caused by something called a chytrid fungus. In fact frogs and other amphibians such as toads, newts and salamanders are the most endangered animals on earth. 32% of known species are officially classed as being under threat and 120 species have become extinct since 1980. Despite this they don’t appear to be a popular focus for conservation efforts and, on an international scale, there is little in the way of legal protection for them. They lack the charm of pandas, tigers or corncrakes. Things are a little better in Ireland, mainly thanks to the fact that our amphibians benefit from EU conservation laws. But these do mean that a National School teacher who brings a jam jar full of frog spawn into the classroom to teach her pupils some elementary biology is actually breaking the law. We have three species of wild amphibian in this country - the common frog, the common or smooth newt and the natterjack toad. The main difference between a frog and a toad is that frogs normally travel by hopping but toads can’t do this and just amble along. Natterjack toads only exist in a few isolated populations on the coast of west Kerry and one small introduced population in the north east of Wexford Harbour. They live in sand dunes which they burrow into during the day, emerging at night to hunt earwigs, woodlice and sand hoppers. They breed in ponds of fresh or brackish water in the dunes in late spring. They are one of our most endangered wild animals. They are vulnerable because sand dunes are regarded as amenity areas and caravan parks and links golf courses encroach on their habitat. Climate change is also a threat - winter storms or spring droughts can destroy their breeding ponds. And if a population is wiped out there is little chance of it being replaced naturally because the toads are unable to travel across country from one dune area to another. Newts are one of the least studied of Irish wild animals and there is no reliable

“Their weirdness dates back to when animals were trying to decide whether they should stay in the water or climb out.” data about their status in this country. Like other Irish amphibians they hibernate and this normally takes place on land, although frogs, toads and newts have the ability to hibernate in water or buried in the mud at the bottom of a pond and they occasionally do this. Newts breed in still or slow moving water in late spring and they spend more time in the water than either frogs or toads typically months rather than weeks. But they are essentially land animals. I came across one the other day while I was weeding the scallions in my vegetable garden, which is a long way from any suitable water body.

-.$/*/0$1 Frogs are certainly our commonest amphibian. Up until recently they were regarded as non-native but genetic research published in 2009 has shown that frogs in southern counties are native and survived

the last Ice Age there while frogs in other parts of the country appear to be descended from at least two human introductions from abroad. They breed earlier in the spring than newts or toads. It seems likely that Irish frog populations declined considerably during the 20th century. There are a number of reasons for this - land drainage reduced their breeding habitat and silage making killed a lot of them later in the year. The invention of the garden strimmer has also been responsible for a lot of frog deaths. But there is some data suggesting that frog numbers are no longer declining. The Irish Peatland Conservation Council surveys frogs and collates the results on a database. The general public is encouraged to contribute to this work and you can discover more about this on their website, which also has a lot of good general information about frogs in Ireland, although much of it is directed at children. www.ipcc.ie

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ublin and the surrounding counties are going to need a new water supply by 2016. Even if they fix a lot of the leaky pipes and maximise the water they get locally, they’ll be running out in five years time. It seems increasingly likely that they’ll take this water from the north end of Lough Derg on the Shannon, store it and purify it in Co Offaly and then pipe it to Greater Dublin and five surrounding counties. When I first heard about this my knee jerked and I started to protest. So did a lot of other people. The Shannon is the artery of Ireland and of huge importance to wildlife. And I’m a boating enthusiast and boats are no good without water. There’s no way the Shannon should be diverted into the toilet cisterns of the capital.Then I investigated a bit further and the whole issue began to look a bit more complex. Storing water in Co Offaly, on a 200 hectare cutaway bog called Garryhinch, near Portarlington, would have some interesting implications. First it means that the water can be abstracted from the Shannon when the river is in flood, which is normally in the winter, and held for use

at times of low water levels. The level of Lough Derg is already controlled by the ESB because the lake is a sort of header tank for the hydro-electric power station at Ardnacrusha. Under this regime the difference between the highest level and the lowest level is about 40 centimetres. It looks as though it won’t be very different under the new regime. Winter floods on the Shannon are not popular, particularly among farmers or other people with property along the river. But these floods are of vital ecological importance. They provide one of the most important places in Europe for sub-arctic wildfowl in winter and in summer the callows are breeding grounds for another set of vulnerable birds. The callows are fertile because the silt the river deposits when it floods is full of nutrients. If the Shannon didn’t flood these nutrients would remain in the river, leading to eutrophication and an ecological disaster. But it seems that the winter floods will continue even after the abstraction, though they may be a little less dramatic in future. The reservoir proposed for Garryhinch Bog sounds interesting. It’s based on two models. One is Rutland Water in East Anglia in the UK. This is a famous trout

fishery and an important bird sanctuary. It attracts over one million visitors a year. The other is Boora Parklands, a Bord na Mona development on cutaway bog at a site further west in Co Offaly. It’s not quite the visitor attraction that Rutland Water is but it has been quite successful, both as an amenity and from a wildlife point of view. The proposals for Garryhinch talk about a ‘water-based eco-park’ and mention fishing, boating, cycling, water and leisure sports. No mention of walking, but I’m sure it fits in somewhere. And it does sound like quite a nice thing to have in a part of the country that’s relatively impoverished when it come to large bodies of open water. In addition it would provide a lot of short term and a significant number of long term jobs in the area. I’m still not totally convinced by these arguments. Instinctively I feel it’s wrong to bleed the Shannon for the benefit of the profligate citizens of Dublin. I also have an uneasy feeling that water supply may be privatised in this country at some time in the future, as it has been in so many other countries. This would definitely move the goal posts. But the logical part of my brain has to admit that, on the face of it, there’s not too much wrong with this plan.

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Turkish Trek !#,"$(-."(-/(,0"(1-%*$&'(2"',(*-.3($4',#.5"( 1#*+'6(,0"(789+:(;<54#.()#<(4'(#(="1"*6('#<'( !!"(%"#$"%(>#%<(!4-%$#.

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pened in 1999, The Lycian Way was Turkey’s first longdistance waymarked walking route. It stretches for a distance of about 500km along the South West Coast of Turkey from Fethiye to Antalya, offering fantastic coastal views and ancient historic ruins - a legacy of the many civilisations to have occupied the region. Unspoilt Turkish villages and towns are scattered along the route, which has been described by The Sunday Times as one of the world’s ten best long distance walks. Old mule tracks, cedar forests, grassy mountain sides with lakes, gorges and farmland, make this one of the most spectacular walks in Europe, with constant views of the sundrenched Mediterranean ocean. The route was designed by an English woman Kate Clow, author of The Lycian Way (stg.£15.99, available at www. trekkinginturkey.com) which includes a map of the route. The Way passes through the mountains rising steeply from the wooded shores and tiny bays, giving varied walking. The route is graded medium to hard; not level walking but with many ascents and descents, and is mostly on footpaths and mule trails consisting mainly of limestone rock. The highest point on the route is Mt. Olympus at 2,388m. Walking the route in spring or autumn is best, avoiding the extremes of heat and cold. The Lycian Way has something for everybody, with many different ways to walk and enjoy. Cross the high mountain in midsummer, or follow the coastal sections if you enjoy the sea. In spring, walking along the trails is the best time to see the flowers; and autumn to see the changing colours in the forests. Local trees include maple, walnut, fig and poplar trees. There are rich fruit harvests. The fruits are amazingly delicious, especially the pomegranates, oranges, bananas, apples, plums, figs, amongst many others. We came across some wild pig droppings, land crab, miniature lizards, and tortoise. Our guide Baz mentioned the presence of snakes and

wolves in the mountains but thankfully we encountered neither. The difficulty of the route varies greatly, some is along comfortable paths by beaches or through shady woodland, other sections involve rocky footpaths and hairpins climbing up steeper slopes, with higher mountain routes involving small sections of scrambling. Temperatures varied from the low 20s to late 20s C, which was comfortable, with occasional thunder showers. On one of the days, we made a prearranged visit to a local goat farm for lunch, consisting of bulgar wheat with a salad of tomatoes, lettuce and green beans in oil. This was all organically grown locally, and we felt very fortified, which enabled us to continue and finish our days trekking without any difficulty. On another occasion we had the opportunity to visit a typical Muslim family who ate a traditional style meal of bread, mezzes (starter) stuffed vine leaves, chick pea soup, pastries with cheese and spinach, rice with green beans, all accompanied by Turkish wine, and sitting on the floor cross-legged. Kas is a bustling coastal town to which we drove from the airport at Antayla. It is situated between the sea and cliffs on a wild and rocky coastline, surrounded by ancient forests, and on the Lycian Way. It has a lovely marina and interesting shops, cafes, and restaurants on the harbour front. It is possible on a free day in Kas to enjoy an optional day trip to the Greek Island of Castellorizo, but make sure you have your passport and some euros. Our stay in Kas was for six nights. Finike is surrounded by a high plateau where the vegetation begins to change as the valley stretches down to the town. Orange groves and vegetables grow in the valley, and nomadic shepherds bring their flocks to graze; we had the pleasure of meeting one of these shepherds and his wife who had hundreds of sheep and goats. Finike is much more commercialised and noisy than the other resorts and our hotel was at the corner of a very busy road junction, so it was not such

a popular stay with some people. Luckily, it was only for two nights. Cirali is an agricultural village, close to the ruins of Olympus which we visited and which badly needs some maintenance work as entrances are very overgrown and some ruins are in a bad state of disrepair. Cirali is also close to some of Turkey’s finest beaches, and the Lycian Way winds along the trails to these remote beaches, with one in particular reminding me of being on a desert island alone with my discs. This little cove was heaven on earth! From here, the Lycian Way circles Tahtali (Mt. Olympus), to the saddle of which some of the group climbed on one of our day walks. The little village of Cirali has a great feeling of remoteness, and is so uncommercialised. Dirt roads led to Ozge wooden lodges in which we stayed for four nights, and they were so luxurious. This was my favourite location after Kas. Antalya, where our journey started and ended, is a city built on a limestone plateau between the mountains and the sea. From here it is possible to visit the ruined city of Termessos. In the old town area no traffic is allowed except delivery traffic. Streets of cobbled stone have many markets, especially the Turkish carpet market where you need plenty of time to strike a bargain! Numerous cafes and restaurants stretch all the way on side-walks to the seafront. Sipping a Turkish beer, a Turkish tea (chay), or a Raki: there is no better way to relax and watch the world go by at the end of an energetic two-week walking holiday. Visiting a mosque at prayer time (where for the ladies covering your head and wearing a knee length skirt is a must); sampling a delicious Turkish kebab from one of the many kiosks; all this was part of the experience of the city. A very enjoyable way to experience Turkey without sitting on a beach all day! !"#$%&'("#)*+,"' www.lycianway.com www.lycianturkey.com www.goturkey.com

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The Laugavegur

Iceland’s Laugavegur ‘The Hot Spring Route’ runs 55km from the hot springs area of Landmannalaugar to the glacial valley of Thorsmork on the island’s south coast. Typically completed in four days of easy to moderate going (highest point is Hrafntinnusker at 1,000m), the route is open from mid-June to midSeptember. One of Iceland’s most popular routes, the Laugavegur takes in a stunning range of scenery, including mountains, lakes, glaciers and hot springs. Overnights are in mountain huts or designated campsites, and buses serve both ends of the trail.

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www.nat.is www.fi.is/en/hiking-trails/ www.nat.is/travelguideeng/hiking_laugavegur.htm www.icelandair.com

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ver felt you wanted to go faster up a hill? To move more easily with a rucksack? To experience the exhilaration that comes with fluidity and lightness? Only a mad person would answer ‘no’, so to everyone else, I say: Welcome to the world of Fast & Light. Except, that it needn’t involve speed. In reality, it’s more about Light & Easy, except that sounds too much like a brand of low-fat cooking oil.

Out With the Old... In the last 10 years, the development of these technologies has gathered pace. In 1995 Duncan and I skied across California with absolutely cutting edge equipment: a Hilleberg tent weighing 3.6kg, winterweight sleeping bags at an unbelievable 1.8kg, and waterproof jackets tipping the scales at 1kg. We were the envy of the team. But for a ski-touring trip in 2009, our tent weighed 2kg, sleeping bags 800g and ProShell jackets less than 500g. The difference on my back, and therefore to my legs, was enormous and contributed directly to my levels of enjoyment. Lighter kit enabled me to move faster (OK, so in reality still slow, but faster than if I was loaded like a camel). And faster, in winter mountains, is safer. While the kit is a huge factor in all this, it’s worth noting that what’s in your head also counts. Fast & Light (or Light & Easy) is a mind-set. It’s about how you travel and where you go, as much as what you carry. I have a friend, Tom, who’s 25. He’s a classic Fast & Light candidate: he’ll get up at 2am to dash up a snowy mountain in order to ski down and be at work by mid morning. Then there’s me: I’m 44, and my version of Light & Easy is to pare down my rucksack load to the bare – and I mean truly bare, within the realms of safety – minimum so I can leave at 5am, walk up the same peak, slither back down and be home for a mid-afternoon beer. You have to want to do it. It involves effort and imagination – as well as cash, if you are to indulge the equipment fetish. A friend’s brother recently took up longdistance cycle touring. He bought into the whole lightweight thing, spending a fortune on titanium this and micro-denier that. But instead of reducing his load, he simply carried much more stuff – so while it was lightweight, there was too much of it. And he topped it all by carrying a

Back in the day, lovers of the outdoors took what they were given in terms of equipment. Luckily, things evolved quickly: hobnail boots acquired Vibram soles, stiff, heavy leather gave way to leather/fabric hybrids and then synthetic shoes light enough to run in. Canvas frame tents morphed into nylon double-skin domes and tunnels, then single skin shelters; uncomfortable frame rucksacks grew supportive hipbelts and strong, synthetic casings.

full-size pair of binoculars and a copy of Homer’s The Odyssey. As the other Homer would say, D’Oh… His load, not including the bike, was 18kg. At around the same time, Duncan and I went cycle touring for a month. We had no campsite luxuries, no books and certainly no binoculars. It rained the entire time, we covered 2,400km and our loads totalled 7kg each. Including panniers. He could see birds more clearly but we exerted less effort and had more fun. Last year, we trekked the GR20 in Corsica. This is a popular route so to save money and ensure a degree of privacy, we decided to camp. But it is a notoriously rugged trek, regarded as the hardest long-distance trail in France, with nearly 13,000 metres of height gain and loss over 15 days. Also, in autumn, we could expect every aspect of weather, from snow and rain to strong wind and harsh sun. So we spent months working on the kit list, weighing every item to the gram, to achieve a ‘dry’ weight (without food or water) of 8kg each. By carrying a two-man single-skin shelter (1600g), lightweight sleeping bags with a silk liner to boost warmth, titanium cookware and versatile, minimalist clothing, our loads including the rucksacks, three days’ food and two litres of water were 12kg each. Since I turned 40, this is the absolute maximum I am prepared to carry, otherwise I feel crushed by the weight, and resentful of the extra effort needed to haul it. On our first day, walking south to north, we climbed 1,300m. On the way, lying under a tree exhausted and almost in tears, we met a Belgian couple. They were younger than us, and had immense rucksacks. Hilde’s pack weighed 20kg, Peter’s weighed 24kg. They were carrying whisky (which, admittedly, we helped them drink), food for seven days (not necessary: it was possible to buy basic supplies in the moun-

tain huts), a large tent, camping chairs and too many clothes. And so, on the first day, Hilde was on the verge of abandoning the route because of her pack weight. We encouraged them on, and walked together. Due to his heavy rucksack, Peter’s knees gave out and we lent him trekking poles so he could make it to the halfway stage. There, at a hotel in Vizzavona, they left a large pile of stuff they didn’t actually need. For the second half of the trek, they walked too fast for us to keep pace, astonished at the difference dumping gear had made. That said, Peter still has a way to go: they joined us on a snowshoeing (them) and ski touring (us) hut-to-hut trip last winter and we discovered on the first night that he was carrying a pocket multi-tool that weighed more than my sleeping bag. As I say, you have to want to do it…

Gearing Down This is the easiest way to tick Fast & Light / Light & Easy boxes. To be most effective, think ‘little and often’. Look at your overall pack contents and decide what you can do without. Then try to skim a few grams off every remaining item to create a reduced overall weight; you’ll be surprised how all those grams add up. We did a gram-saving route in the Pyrenees a few years ago where we even snipped labels out of garments, saving 280g each, which was half a day’s food. It all went pear-shaped when my hydration bladder leaked on the first day, soaking the carefully-calculated toilet paper and quadrupling its weight… my option was, no toilet paper for a fortnight, or delicately drying each square… I should mention here that lightweight rarely goes hand in hand with durability. As a very general rule, the more an item has been pared down, the less abuse it can take; this is particularly true with footwear. It’s a very real trade-off and only you can decide if it’s worth it for you.

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!"#$%&%'()*$ Tents Fifteen years ago Duncan and I ditched a two-man tent weighing 6kg, which we hated carrying, in favour of a very expensive Hilleberg Namatj GT, weighing 3.5kg. We thought this was the ultimate in lightweight camping – and, at the time, it was. Five years later we bought a Hilleberg Nallo 2, a double-skin tunnel tent with porch, weighing 2kg. This remains our dream tent: it has survived storms on several continents. But, when every gram counts, as on Corsica and cycle touring, we take a singleskin shelter by GoLite, which weighs 1,600g. It’s quite old now, and it leaks if it rains hard, so we take it when we’re expecting decent weather. Now, if you’re thinking to yourself: “the difference between those two tents is only 400g so why bother?”, you’re not getting this Fast & Light thing. That is the equivalent of a day’s food for one person. It all adds up.

Sleeping bags I don’t care what the marketing people say, down is lighter for the warmth than synthetic fill. It breathes better, packs smaller, and is harder to look after. And it’s much more expensive. But Fast & Light also means small pack size, so unless I expect to get wet I take a down bag. A few manufacturers (including Rab, Mountain Equipment, PHD) offer them in shorter lengths, which means I can reduce the weight further by not carrying unnecessary fabric. My favourite is a Rab bag weighing 800g but the range has changed completely this year and the bags may have got even lighter.

Stoves It’s easy to find sub-100g gas heads, but deciding on fuel type is a bigger issue. We calculate that, for up to four days for two people, assuming we’re not melting snow, it is lighter to carry gas canisters. Longer than that, it makes sense to carry the extra weight of the multi-fuel bottles and heavier stove unit, on the grounds of efficiency, cost and overall load.

Miscellaneous camping You can save serious grams by choosing titanium pans and grippers, weighing your bowls and mug (not all plastics weigh the same), opting for an LED torch (Petzl Tikka or Black Diamond Spot are our top picks) and skipping luxuries like books (make conversation, people!)

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Rucksacks Fast & Light daypacks are sleek and minimalist. Designed to carry a hydration bladder, an energy bar and an emergency waterproof, they’re typically between 18-25 litres and made of ultra-lightweight, fine-denier fabric. Excellent examples are made by Gregory, Haglofs, Inov8 and Terra Nova. Backpacking sacks are more Light & Easy (it’s hard to go quickly with a big pack!). However, this is one sector where lightweight isn’t always the best choice. I’ve tested many lightweight backpacking sacks and few comfortably carry loads greater than about 7kg – which is fine for a 40 litre sack but rubbish for a 50+ litre pack designed to carry weight. In general, they’ve been pared down too

much, resulting in feeble hipbelts and frame systems that distort under load. The notable exception is Lightwave Wildtrek 55W (1.4kg, 55 litres), which I highly recommend having used it in Corsica (GR20), Morocco (ski touring) and all points in between. Heavier but extremely effective and comfortable is Lowe Alpine’s brand-new Cerro Torre ND55:70, at 2.5kg for up to 70 litres.

Clothing Today’s waterproofs are amazing. You can find a well designed 2.5 layer (eg Gore-Tex Paclite) jacket for under 200g (check out Outdoor Research Helium, in Pertex Shield DS, at 170g in women’s Medium). For foul weather, 3-layer is pretty much essential; my favourite is the Mountain Equipment Seraph, in Gore-Tex ProShell, at 415g (compared with around 700g for a 2-layer, with a lining). Insulation layers are at an interesting stage. At this time of year I choose a lightweight synthetic top (current favourite is The North Face Zephyrus Pullover, 220g) as lighter, warmer and more compact in my pack than a fleece. If it’s really freezing, a down gilet takes less space than a second jacket and can be pulled on quickly over outer layers on a summit or for a lunchbreak. Boots are a hard nut to crack: many walkers stick to their comfy old pair like a security blanket sticks to a child. But reducing the weight on your feet makes more difference than you would believe: your feet will feel like they’re dancing. Good choices are Asolo Ray or, for leather lovers, Zamberlan’s mid-height Tundra GT. Once you’ve walked in a pair of sub-1kg boots or shoes, you’ll only dig out those big leather lumps for the wet weeks of winter.

Every Little Helps Fast & Light can be anything you want it to be. It might mean reducing your pack weight for a day walk up your favourite mountain, or stripping down to basics to go fell-running, carrying nothing more than a hydration bladder and a stick of lipsalve (look, it weighs 15g, and I’m a girl…). For backpacking, it’s minimising your kit, trading luxury at night for increased walking comfort during the day. Or, you can think laterally. Combining sports fits the mindset: try accessing a walk by mountain biking along forest tracks then stashing it so you can walk the interesting bits - up the peak, along the ridge, over tough ground by a lake. Or canoeing along a loch to avoid a tedious bog-trot, then leaving the boat and big bags on the beach to hike the hill with a daypack. We did this in Scotland to climb Suilven, trading the notoriously long approach for a fun afternoon in a rented canoe.

Ski touring – sliding up valleys and mountains on lightweight skis with grippy material on the bases, before skiing down – is a classic Fast & Light activity. Ski touring with a heavy load is a nightmare for both balance and comfort, and speed is always of the essence in the short days of winter. In the end, every little bit helps. If your concession to this new way of thinking is restricting to ditching your traditional zip-in fleece for a lightweight synthetic jacket, or slimming down your rucksack First Aid bag to a minimal kit of tape, plasters and Ibuprofen, it’ll make a difference. Going the whole hog with equipment can be expensive, but each time you replace an item of gear, think about it. What do you need to be safe? What can you leave behind to have a lighter pack and feel lighter on your feet? Your body will thank you – and that makes your heart lighter, too.

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here are plenty of academic arguments as to how old the compass is; it seems the Chinese were using lodestones for direction-finding as early as the fourth century BC – interestingly most of these pointed south rather than north. The first references in Europe records appeared in 1190; these were ‘wet’ compasses with a magnetised needle floating in water, with ‘dry’ compasses appearing around 1300. The modern protractor/baseplate type compass was invented in 1928 by Gunnar Tillander, an unemployed Swedish instrument maker and avid orienteer. Up until this time field compasses needed a separate protractor to take a bearing from a map; Tillander combined both instruments in one instrument. He brought his design to fellow orienteers Bjorn and Alvar Kjellstorm who were already selling basic compasses, together they modified it and in 1932 the Silva Company was formed, manufacturing and selling compasses to Swedish orienteers, outdoorsmen and army officers. All of this is merely historical background, what’s important is that the compass is probably the second most important tool in the navigator’s box of tricks. # "

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the lanyard tied separately to the webbing. The lanyard also has a series of beads which I use for pace counting, a technique we’ll look at in a later article. 1"#2'3"#$%&&2& have silicone “feet”, great for stopping the compass from slipping on a wet laminated map.

&'()*+,',-$'.)*+,/."0,#1$,0'2 Identify where you are and where you want to go on the map.

So, what is a compass used for? Everyone knows it measures ‘bearings’, Fig. 2 but what are they? Simply put, a bearing is the horizontal angle between north and a line connecting two points, measured clockwise (Fig.1). Travelling from A to B the bearing is the angle indicated by the blue area Travelling from B to A the bearing is the angle indicated by the red area. Measurement is usually in degrees, mils

or radians. One of the simplest things you can do with a compass is to use it to ‘set’ your map. A really simple technique is to line up the magnetic needle parallel with the north-south gridlines on the map. All you do is put the compass down on the map and turn yourself around until the needlw is parallel to the north-south lines.

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!"#$%&&'()%*+'Choose a model that’s marked in 20 graduations, cheaper models marked in 50 increments just aren’t accurate enough. ,%-.%/0+'Always keep the compass tied securely to either yourself or your rucksack. My compass sits in a pouch clipped to my sack’s left shoulder strap with Fig. 4

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Run either the long edge of the compass or one of the lines parallel to this on the baseplate through these 2 points (Fig.2). Check that the direction of travel arrow is pointing from where you are towards your destination, otherwise you’ll end up taking a reciprocal or back bearing 1800 different to the direction you’re travelling in. Clamp the baseplate firmly to the map; rotate the compass housing until the orienting lines are parallel with the North-South grid lines on the map (Fig.3). Check that North on the housing agrees with north on the map. Read the bearing at the index mark/ direction of travel arrow (Fig.4) and add the magnetic variation. (See panel).

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Following a bearing is reasonably straightforward in theory but in reality requires a bit of practice and a few tricks. In reasonable visibility, simply pick a distant object along your line of travel – a boulder, patch of heather, side of a peat hag etc – put your compass away and walk to it. When you get there, set yourself up again and walk back to the next object on your line of travel, repeating the process until you reach the target. In reality it’s rarely that easy, usually the visibility isn’t that good or the ground ahead is nondescript and lacks anything obvious to sight on. The only option is to put your head down, holding the compass at about solar plexus level and keeping the magnetic needle lined up with the orienting lines inside the compass housing, stopping at intervals to steady yourself. No matter how good you think you are, everybody zig-zags when following a bearing, the best you can hope is that the zigs counteract the zags! You can help the process by following these tips. Most people understand the need to line up the needle with the orienting lines etc. but it’s surprising how many don’t align their body with the compass. Try keeping your chin, breastbone, hips and feet all in the same line and then sit the compass at the solar plexus level as you walk and see how much your accuracy improves. There’s a loads of talk about one guy standing still with the compass set, then sending someone else out as far as visibility allows. This person is then signalled left or right until they’re “on”. They then set the next guy on the bearing, continuing ad nauseum until you get to the target. I don’t know anyone who’s done this for real – how often would you have that many competent compass users with you and what’s everyone else supposed to do while you’re faffing about with hand signals? Like all navigation accuracy comes with practice, if you’re worried about wandering off the bearing, slow down and break the leg into smaller pieces. A second compass user to check your direction is handy but I can’t remember the last time I had that luxury… Travelling directly uphill/downhill is fairly easy; “drift” really comes into play as you walk across the slope. Put simply this is gravity pulling you off-line and is much more noticeable when you’re tired. The only way to combat this to (a) concentrate and (b) be aware of what might have happened if you don’t reach your target after the allotted time/ distance. I have a simple remedy for drift – when I come to an obstacle I always reset myself on the uphill side – hardly scientific, but it works for me!

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This is the exact opposite of taking a bearing off the map and is commonly used in either of the following situations: (a) to identify a distant feature or (b) to identify your location. To do either, stand with the compass at chest level and point the Direction of Travel (DOT) arrow at the distant feature. Hold the compass steady and rotate the housing until the orienting arrow lines up with the Magnetic needle, making sure you’ve matched north to north. Read the bearing and subtract the magnetic variation. Now you can use this bearing to figure out your location or what feature you’re looking at – we’ll cover this in more detail in a later issue.

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Believe it or not, there are actually 3 norths! True North – The direction from you to the northern end of the earth’s axis. This has no real function in mountain navigation. Grid North – North as defined by the vertical lines of the National Grid. Magnetic North – The north that your compass needle points to, this shifts slightly each year (approx 10 minutes of one degree annually).

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This is the difference in angle between Grid and Magnetic Norths. As I said earlier, this changes slightly each year. A bearing taken from a map is based on Grid North, to follow the bearing on a compass (magnetic north) you have to allow for this Magnetic Variation. In the map’s marginal information (just below the halfway fold on the right hand side of an Irish OS map), there’s a panel titled National Grid. This also contains information on ‘North Point’. It always follows the same format, the first and second sentences relating to True North. The bit we’re interested is in the 3rd and 4th sentences which go something like, “At the centre of this map Magnetic North is 08008’ west of Grid North (1995). Annual decrease 08.7’.” 1995 was 16 years ago so we multiply the annual decrease x 16. For handiness sake we take it to the nearest minute! So 08.7’ becomes 09’, 09’x16 = 144’ or 02024’. This is subtracted from the 1995 Magnetic Variation 08008’- 02024’ = 05044’, again corrected to the nearest degree gives us 060. So our Magnetic Variation for 2011 is 060. We add this figure to all grid bearings before following our compass’ magnetic needle. Remember to “Add for Mag, Get Rid for Grid” or YMCA – Your Map to Compass Add CYMS – Compass to Your Map Subtract

Diagrams in this article are taken from Navigation by Pete Hawkins, published by Cicerone Press at stg £8.99 from www.cicerone.co.uk Our thanks to Cicerone.

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walked more than thirteen miles in one go, and this was now worrying me! And off the masses went with the serious walkers out of the NSC gates before the majority had completed a lap of the track. The first Church, Braddan at two miles is not actually touched by the walkers owing to the sheer volume of people at the start and the logistics involved, including safety issues. Onward to Marown church at four miles, where you walk to the door but do not officially check in. It is here you get your first impression of how many people are actually out there, as after reaching the church you turn back on yourself and head off in the direction (in a roundabout way) of the next church, Santon. Revellers at early morning breakfast parties cheer you on and before you know it, you are crossing the main Douglas Road, with Santon church fast approaching after the 10 mile mark. This is the first of the electronic check-ins. Participants wear a tag and check in to a reader at each church thereafter. Your time in recorded and courtesy on Manx Telecom immediately uploaded to the fantastic website “Parishwalk. com “– where thousands of photos are already on line! A text is also sent to two nominated numbers. Texts are now coming in from friends following on line who have spotted that I am through the first big church. Having set myself a time of 12.30 to reach Rushen, I was through at 12. 23. After meeting one of my support team with food and Lucozade, I head off up the dreaded ‘Sloc’. The Sloc is probably a hill but on Parish Walk day after 19 miles it feels like Everest! It’s up up and up and all you can see in front of you are people in their hi-vis bibs and jackets walking up and

“An obsession with socks and shoes had almost ruled my life for some seven months.” up and up. I was through Rushen in position 218 and I thought the snake of people in front was endless – I cannot imagine what it must be like to have 1,000 hi-vis jackets in front of you! My feet were now REALLY hurting, I had felt a number of ‘hot spots’ at Rushen and I know now these were ALL blisters – even in the places I had ‘Compeeded’ before starting out. The march into Peel was painful but the huge crowds in the town as you walk through the shopping streets towards the Town Hall help block this pain out. In Peel (33 miles) check in is at the Town Hall and huge crowds gather through the day to welcome everyone. Massage tables provided by a number of organisations are tempting but for those with beyond Peel in mind they must turn their back and march out the coast road toward Kirk Michael. Of over 1,000 that checked in at Peel, only 530 went on. My feet were really worrying me so just outside Peel I decided to stop and take my shoes off and review the situation. Obviously I was not the only one with this idea and the Ramsey Road resembled a field hospital with car boots open and bandages and compeeds in copious supply! Beyond Peel it is compulsory to have a support vehicle which displays its walker’s number. You get to make many friends along the way at this point – not just fellow walkers but their support drivers too. You can be with a certain group for many hours. Another never-ending road approaches and although you see the sign Welcome to the Parish of Bride, there are at least another four miles to go before you reach that church. Checking in at Bride at 9.15pm, I moved on towards Andreas. Light is beginning to fade and as 10 O’clock approaches, marshals start advising us that we need to ‘light up’. The rules state that after 10pm you must carry a light source visible from the front and back. I had two flashing armbands which sufficed until later, when in the darker unlit roads I used a head lamp and rear red light. Entering Andreas, I actually wonder what time of day it is- there are just so many people out and a barbeque in full swing on the roundabout! To check in at Andreas Church the walk up to the church door is on a pebble grit lane, so painful on burning feet - and once checked in you must walk back down it to the road! It’s getting quite dark now and I notice the church wardens erecting lighting in the lane. The road to the next church at Lezayre takes

forever, another long and winding road and you are constantly on the watch for the slip road leading up to the church. Check-in at Lezayre was milestone for me as this was where had stopped the previous year having almost crawled to the church – I took consolation from that fact that I was still walking and feeling a bit better than that time last year. From here in to the town of Ramsey, my feet were now extremely painful. Every time I put my right foot down, pain from the blisters would shoot up my leg. I contemplated stopping to see if I could do something but the memories of removing my shoe at Kirk Micheal put paid to that. I walked on remembering advice given that the blisters would ‘just burst’. and burst they did – whilst painful in itself it was better than the shooting pains. Another batch of texts from friends spurred me on and in particular advice to “Put your head down and sing until you get to the top road”. This is exactly what I did; I seemed to be on my own now with quite a large number of retirements at Maughlod. Before I knew it I was on the top road - the main road to Douglas - homeward bound! I was flying it (again these are my words, I am sure I did not seem that way to an observer). This was going to be fine; I knew this road well and I would be home in in a few hours - or so I thought. Round the corner at Bulgan Rocks, the mist rolled in straight off the sea and it began to rain a bit. I got cold and my body just seized. From there on in for more than ten miles,

every step was a massive effort. I actually had to say ‘left right. left right’ to move my feet. Knowing the road was awful, quite the contrary to what I had thought. All I could think was “Oh no I am only at … I haven’t even reached … yet.” Worse was to come. Into Laxey village and I had to walk straight past my front door! My husband was in the kitchen making fresh coffee, on the phone to some family and friends who had not been able to see me check in at Lonan, the next church. I could see my bed! You imagine that when you get to the prom you would have a great sense of elation, but no – your first thought is how long the prom seems, and then WHERE is the finish line? It was foggy that morning and not being able to see that line was awful. Left, right, left… and finally it comes into sight. I see my kids and family on the line and my final ‘second’ wind gets me over the line. As I’m coming in I notice amongst a fair crowd for that time of the morning (6.50am!), that the winner of the race and another guy who came in the top five are there clapping me in. It occurs to me that they have more than likely been home, had a shower, gone to bed, got up had breakfast and then come down to the prom – all while I was still out there. The winner, Jock Waddington, finished in 15:01!So 22 hours and 50 mins later, I can now answer that question – Have you ever done the Parish – YES - How far did you get? ALL THE WAY! www.parishwalk.com

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!&#/%#)01+%"+2"1%+!,31+ 4#%#/$+5&%2()'$* The Maumturks Walking Club and Mountaineering Ireland (MI) invite all MI members to this year’s Autumn Gathering in Leenane, Co. Galway on 14-16 October 2011. The weekend will provide a unique opportunity for all MI members and clubs to taste Connemara, further develop skills and share each others personal and club experiences and perspectives. The Maumturks Walking Club and MI have developed an excellent programme which commences on Friday evening, 14 October with guest speaker Michael Gibbons, a renowned local archaeologist, historian and mountaineer, who will set the scene for the weekend introducing Connemara, its history and wonders. On Saturday a full programme of walks, climbs, a variety of development workshops and members’ forum will help develop an appetite for the evening’s dinner and entertainment. Connemara Hill Lamb courtesy of the local Connemara Hill Lamb co-operative will be on the menu amongst other options. Local entertainment will be on hand on Saturday evening with traditional music and dance.

Trish Walsh, manager of Petersburg OEC will deliver an illustrative talk on the Joyce Country Aspirant Geopark on Sunday morning. Trish will present the geoparks vision that landscape, geology and cultural heritage of Joyce Country will act as a catalyst in the natural, spiritual and econmic development of the region and improve its living conditions and environment in the future for all its inhabitants. Further workshops; Scrambling for Walkers, Exploring the Mountain Environment, Club Administration workshop, Club Environmental Officers workshop will also be conducted over the course of the weekend. Advance registration for the event is recommended and can be done via www.mountaineering.ie. Registration, including dinner on Saturday night, is €35. Registration includes all activities, transport for activities, T-Shirt, etc. For anyone who does not wish to avail of Saturday’s dinner registration is €18. The Leenane Hotel will provide a well situated base and the hotel is offering a special discounted weekend rate. For more information see www.leenanehotel.com or contact 00 353 (0) 95 42249. A variety of other accommodation is also available.

The “Lynam Lecture” is a memorial for Joss Lynam (1924 - 2011) in recognition of his enormous achievements in the “mountaineering/ hillwalking/ climbing/ outdoor adventure activity” space in Ireland over some 60 years. He was the initiator of numerous developments in these areas and the inspiration for a number of generations of Irish mountaineers. The Lynam Lecturers will be limited to the most prestigious individuals in the world of mountaineering. For 2011 Mountaineering Ireland has invited Harish Kapadia, a distinguished Himalayan Mountaineer. Harish has been the editor of the Himalayan Journal since 1978. Harish’s explorations include the Eastern Karakoram, Spiti Valleys, Kinnaur, Garwahl, Kumaun and Sikim. The logical location for the Lynam Lecture is Trinity College. Joss was a civil engineering graduate of Trinity. On 14 Dec 2001, Joss received an honorary degree from Trinity College Dublin. The primary advocate for this honour was Professor Frank Winder, a distinguished biologist and long-time member of TCD staff. Mountaineering Ireland would like to thank Trinity College Dublin for supporting this memorial by providing the Edmund Burke Theatre on a biennial basis. For more information and to purchase tickets visit www.mountaineering.ie.

!,+/(/>()+A'(BC&$*()+D'18"#$% MI members can now avail of a discount scheme which entitles members to a 15% discount off all mapping purchases on the ViewRanger mobile app made from the company’s website,www. viewranger.com. The discount code is available when you email your name and MI membership number to viewranger@mountaineering.ie. You will then be sent the discount code and directions on how to proceed with your purchase.

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E)&=(-+&$.+48%'='%7+,$1#)&$8(+4=&'-&>-( Travel and Activity insurance is once again available for MI members through the BMC. The scheme provides excellent cover from hiking to high altitude. For example, the ‘Trek policy’ includes all mountain-walking trips including adventurous treks in the Alps and Himalaya, Via ferrata, recognised trekking routes with simple glacier crossings and scrambles and non-technical ascents of easy trekking routes on peaks that do not require the use of technical climbing equipment. For more details see www.mountaineering.ie.

3&)4'5*0$-$-6'788$%"*'9:*;2#:/'<' =>?=@'A:B"C4"* The Club Training Officer workshop is an opportunity for a clubs’ Training Officer to learn from experienced instructors, discuss their clubs’ training needs, and work toward designing an effective training structure. Participants should have considerable prior knowledge and experience of the mountain environment. It is hoped that participants will subsequently pass on the information learnt at the workshops to their fellow club members. In this way, training information can be widely disseminated among MI clubs. The workshop will also provide participants with information on Leave No Trace and formal mountain training schemes such as the Mountain Skills, Walking Group Leader award and Mountain Leader award. The programme for the weekend will consist of both indoor informal discussion sessions and outdoor practical exercises. Participants should therefore come prepared to spend some part of each day on the hills. The next MI Club Training Officer workshop will take place on the weekend 05/06 November 2011 in Co. Wicklow. For more information or to register for this workshop please email training@mountaineering.ie.

90&;'(08"&, Mountaineering Ireland (MI) launched a new Walk Safely leaflet this summer. Walk Safely is a resource for those who are new to walking in the Irish hills and countryside, be they tourists or friends, family and colleagues who want to get outdoors and benefit from the beauty of Ireland’s countryside. Walk Safely highlights some tips which will give you confidence and make your

experience more enjoyable. It also promotes responsible enjoyment of the Irish Countryside. Walk Safely is available through all Ireland’s tourist information offices. It is also available in digital format from www. mountaineering.ie. MI would like to thank all the partners who supported this publication; Fáilte Ireland, Irishtrails.ie, Mountain Rescue Ireland, Leave no Trace Ireland and WalkNI.com.

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!"#$%&"'("%)*$+,'$-'+#"'./&0-12 Gardaí in the Wicklow District recently produced a report showing 348 thefts from vehicles parked in the Wicklow mountains between May 2010 and April 2011. Many of those affected were hillwalkers and climbers. People parking in all remote and upland areas are advised to: UÊ Avoid leaving valuables in parked vehicles and not to leave anything on display in the vehicle; UÊ Remove portable sat nav systems, including cradle and suction pads, also wipe suction marks off the windscreen; UÊ Secure the vehicle before leaving it; UÊ Report all thefts, damage to vehicles and suspicious activity to the Gardaí. MI will be meeting with the Wicklow Joint Policing Committee at the beginning of September to discuss this matter further. If you have any comments or suggestions on this issue, please contact the Mountaineering Ireland office or email access@mountaineering.ie.

Festivals Festivals Festivals Festivals Wee Binnian Walking Festival September 10-12

They say: With a reputation firmly established for great sociability, combined with an ability to put together a challenging walking programme, the Wee Binnian Walking Festival attracts a large number of walkers from all over Ireland and further afield. The festival has been much acclaimed for its balance of fabulous landscapes, friendly people and nightly entertainment. The programme offers guided mountain and lowland walks in the Mourne and Cooley Mountains with varying distances and difficulty catering from the novice to the most experienced hill-walker. The lower level Gap of the North History Trail and Smugglers Walk are firm favourites for those who enjoy a shorter walk full of history, folklore and great scenery. The Festival includes the infamous Blister Ball on the Saturday night. The Wee Binnian Walkers take great pride in the fact that the Festival is organised and funded through volunteer efforts. Tel: 0759 239 3801 Web: www.weebinnians.com

Suck Valley Walking Festival September 10-12 They say: There are three walks organised for the Suck Valley Walking Festival. The walks are varied to suit different abilities from the 29km walk for the serious walker to the 8km walk for the less experienced. The walks are fully supervised, winding along the beautiful and tranquil Suck Valley Way. The 8km walk is from Athleague to Castlecoote. This is for children and the less experienced, and perhaps the less inclined!. The 13km walk is from Athleague to Donamon, and this is for intermediate walkers. The 29km walk is from Athleague to Ballintober - this is for the experienced walkers, many of whom are coming from afar. All the background information you will require is contained in the excellent booklet ‘The Suck Valley Way’ by Joss Lynam, and is available free from the Suck Valley Angling Centre. Tea/coffee

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will be provided in the morning, with light refreshments available later. Maps of the walks are provided, and transport to and from the walks is arranged. Tel: 090 666 3602 E: info@suckvalley.com

Burren Peaks Walking Festival September 23-25 They say: This festival weekend promises a real taste of the Burren and offers guided hill and lowland walks varying in distance and grade and catering for all walkers. Enjoy walking on this wonderfully rich, unique, limestone pavement, with its Karst landscape, grykes, clints, paths, and green trail roads, the land of the fertile rock with its precious and delicate terrain. In the evening after your walk, enjoy some good food and traditional music in the local pubs, before retiring for the evening to your comfortable accommodation. This festival is made possible by the goodwill of the local landowners who have given the Ballyvaughan Fanore Walking Club permission to cross their property for the event. Base and registration will be at the Community Club House, Community Field, National School Road, Ballyvaughan. Tel: 087 269 1147 E:info@ballyvaughanfanorewalkingclub.com Web: www.burrenpeakswalkingfestival.com

Carlow Autumn Walking Festival 7-9 October They say: The Carlow Autumn Walking Festival is a great opportunity for beginner, experienced or advanced walkers to enjoy the challenge of Carlow’s mountain treks or the peace of its woodland and forest parks. A beautiful and varied landscape, knowledgeable local guides and excellent accommodation, all combine to ensure you enjoy a relaxing Autumn break. Special accommodation packages available. Nightly musical entertainment in O’Shea’s Pub, Borris. Tel: 059 913 1554 Email: info@carlowtourism.com Web: www.carlowtourism.com

Nire Valley Annual Walking Festival 7-9 October

They say: A weekend of superb walking, great talking and traditional Nire Valley hospitality. Friday 7th October will see the launch of the festival and a historical and geographic talk on the Nire and Comeraghs. The schedule of walks for Saturday consists of: A Grade, suitable for the very fit only, 7 hours and a distance of 23 kilometres. B+ Grade - good level of fitness, duration approx 6 hours and a distance of 18 kilometres. B Grade - good level of fitness, duration approx 5 to 6 hours and a distance of 15 kilometres. C Grade ordinary level of fitness, duration approx 3 to 4 hours and a distance of 10 kilometres. This is followed by the walking festival, dinner and Ceile. The schedule of walks for Sunday consists of: B+ Grade - suitable for the very fit only, duration approx 6 hours and a distance of 18 kilometres. B Grade - good level of fitness, duration approx 5 hours and a distance of 15 kilometres. C Grade - ordinary level of fitness, duration approx 5 to 6 hours and a distance of 12 kilometres and Family ordinary level of fitness, duration approx 3 to 4 hours and a distance of 8 kilometres. Tel: 052 36 134 Email: hanorascottage@eircom.net Web: www.nirevalley.com

Footfalls Wicklow Walking Festival 28-31 October They say: The festival offers 3 night walks and a selection of day walks, from challenging, to moderate and easy. An Irish Céilí night on Saturday and much more. All walks are led by experienced walking leaders, who will enhance your day with information on local history flora and fauna. The weekend will include a choice of 3 mountain walks each day, 3 night time walks, photography walk with professional photographer, Tim Thornton, My Rhythms dancing and walking with Sherron St Clair from Laragh,a yoga walk with Hilde Eiselen from Yoga Tree Ireland, Nordic Walking with Michele Jameson, an Irish Céilí night on Saturday night in The Brockagh Centre in aid of the Glen of Imaal Mountain Rescue Team, a walk to see all the good work Mountain Meitheal has done in Co. Wicklow and traditional music and song at the end of the day in the local pubs.

Tel:+ 0404 45152 Email: cstacey@iol.ie Web: www.walkinghikingireland.com

Festivals

Sliabh Liag Walkers Sliabh Liag Walking Weekend

3rd & 4th September 2011 Deireadh Seachtaine Siúlóide. Shliabh Liag

Join us in a hillwalker’s paradise waiting to be explored Advanced and moderate walks, plus family friendly, road or track walks available each day Bus transfers to and from starting point Contact: Marion 00 353 (0) 86 606 3923 Brid 00 353 (0) 87 242 4677 Dermot 00 353 (0) 87 207 1797 Email: info@sliabhliagwalkers.com Website: www.sliabhliagwalkers.com

www.discoverireland.ie

Sliabh Liag Walking Festival, September 3rd-4th They say: There are few places in the world to compare to Sliabh Liag (Slieve League) and its surrounding area. From the majestic cliffs rising from the Atlantic Ocean, to the many and varied hills, mountains, and wild boglands – the area is a hill walkers paradise just waiting to be explored. Hidden among the natural beauty lies many relics of ancient history. Court tombs and

dolmens pre-date the Egyptian pyramids. The remains of an early-Christian settlement lie near the summit of Sliabh Liag while Glencolmcille valley is dotted with a huge range of pre and early- Christian standing stones and crosses. If it’s night time entertainment you’re after – the area has a rich musical heritage with the famous “sessions” often lasting long into the night.

Saturday 3rd September

Sunday 4th September

Advanced Walk: Port – Glenlough - Meenacurrin – Glengesh Departure: Carrick Car Park @ 9.00am Duration: 6 Hours Cost €20

Advanced Walk: Bunglass – Sliabh Liag – Malinbeg Departure: Carrick Car Park @ 9.00am Duration: 6 Hours Cost €20

Moderate Walk: Straboy to Glengesh Departure: Carrick Car Park @ 9.00am Duration: 4 Hours Cost €15

Moderate Walk: Bunglass – Sliabh Liag – Pilgrims Path Departure: Carrick Car Park @ 9.00am Duration: 4 Hours Cost €15

Family friendly, road or track walks will be available each day. Bus transfers to and from starting point. Walking Gear essential. Contact Information: Email: info@sliabhliagwalkers.com Web: www.sliabhliagwalkers.com Tel: Marion + 353 (0)86 606 3923 Brid + 353 (0)87 242 4677 Dermot + 353 (0)87 207 1797

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Lighthouse on Bere Island in Co Cork (10)

Pinnacle or summit (4)

10 Small puncture or old-style camera? (7) 11 Would a lemur go to Ben ___ at 803m in the Mweelreas? (7) 12 Projecting ridge on a mountain (5) 14 In the Bluestacks, this Donegal summit is 650m (6,3) 17 Could smog reach these Tipperary/Waterford mountains? (9) 21 Tree which bears winged seeds in pairs (5) 23 The 214m Cliffs of ___ are near Doolin in Co Clare (5) 24 In County Mayo’s Ox mountains, it reaches 512m (9) 26 Be careful! Goats hurl walkers into this Wicklow lake! (4,5) 29 Small Connemara village - close to Cnoc Mordain (5) 31 Iron Age stronghold, ___ Fort is 5 km from Sneem in Co Kerry (7) 34 The lithest of prickly plants found in the countryside (7) 36 Small non-native ruminant mainly found in Wicklow (4) 37 Can a Rabbi dally here between Cullentragh and Carriglineen mountains (10)

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Outrage or shock - perhaps Papal? (5)

Habitation of a wild animal (3)

Sun-dried brick used to make an abode in hot climates (5)

Model of excellence or perfection (5)

Nothing .. zilch .. zero (3)

‘Mountain of the hoof’, Slieve ___ is 543m in the Mournes (5)

Plant with foliage throughout the year (9)

For example .. (1.1.)

13 Close to Slieve Main, this 420m hill is on the Inishowen peninsula (5) 15 Wood used in hurley manufacture (3) 16 Complete extent or range (5)

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17 Navigational instruments (9) 18 Relating to the countryside (5)

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19 Indian state, Portuguese colony some time ago (3) 20 Source of light and heat in the solar system (3)

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22 More complete and unadulterated (5) 25 Over-worked horse given to scolding? (3)

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27 Rough path through a field or up a hill (5) 28 Building which provides accommodation and meals (5)

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29 Upward slope or acclivity (5)

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30 Correct or put right (5)

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32 Travel or move (2) 33 Time period as found in Tipperary? (3) 35 Beverage made by steeping leaves (3)

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