New Zealand Cycle Tour: Best Dam cycling trip in

Best Dam cycling trip in the world

Busting the 315km trail from Mt Cook to Oamaru

By Daniel Haddock

Fancy a challenge on a Grade 2-3 trail, the longest continuous one in Aotearoa, which frequently demands total concentration and a high level of technical skills? Then the A20 (Alps to Ocean) is the one for you.

Your journey begins at Mt. Cook and follows the hydro scheme along the side of Lake Pukaki, Lake Ohau, and Lakes Benmore, Aviemore and Waitaki through Kurow, Duntroon and finishes at Oamaru. Choosing an experienced company, such as Active Adventures, is a must if you want hassle-free transport, fantastic meals, accommodation, and friendly, experienced guides.

Day One-Christchurch to Aoraki/ Mt Cook

The five of us were picked up in Christchurch early on Easter Saturday by Ellie and Elder, our two guides, either at a motel, the airport or at Weedon’s Caravan park in Rolleston. So there was plenty of room in the bus for extra gear as well. The first trip briefing outlining the day was presented. These were to be a regular occurrence throughout the excursion.

We cruised onto Geraldine, home of Barker’s juices and condiments. There was a craft market and a mustsee museum (did you know there was a thriving flax linen industry here as well as Barkers?) The local church was offering free hot cross buns in the church grounds but alas we had to rush back for a beautiful lunch prepared by E and E in the park.

Onwards to Lake Tekapo (Takapo- to leave in haste at night) and the McKenzie Basin.

Sure you’ve seen it on various

Best Dam cycling trip in the world

Busting the 315km trail from Mt Cook to Oamaru

media sources but what a stunning spot. There was obligatory photo outside the church trying to show the view across the lake through the picture window behind the altar. Photographs are not allowed inside the church. New holiday homes and complexes were sprouting up throughout the township. The new bridge over the river links the church to the Dark Sky Experience museum as the original Mt. John Observatory perches above in the distance. A mystery planet display activity dotted the area but we didn’t have time to complete it.

A Thundering Avalanche

Back on the bus through the Southern Alps (Ka tiritiri -o-teMoana, the four brothers and their canoes formed the Southern Alps) to Lake Pukaki (bunched-up water) and Aoraki, 3,754m, (son of Rakanui, the sky father)/Mt. Cook National Park. Then it was all go as daylight was fading. Our rooms in the Mt. Cook Lodge were allocated and we were asked to get changed into our cycling gear

Above: Angela and Richard lead the way to Lake Benmore. Right: Sir Ed as he was in his training ground.

Best Dam cycling trip in the world

Busting the 315 km trail from Mt Cook to Oamaru

Above right: Sunrise at Aoraki/Mt. Cook. Above left: White water on Lake

Ohau. Middle left: Sunrise over a calm Lake Ohau. Below Left: Ellie and Elder serviced the bikes every morning.

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for a bike-fitting and a short cycle to the White Horse Camp ground. Our pedal-power bikes were Rolls All-Terrain and down the road we raced until turning onto the trail and reaching the camp ground.

We parked our bikes and went on a short walk up the lower Hooker Valley. Avalanche!! A deafening rumble rolled out of a near-by valley pulsing snow-spray across our line of vision. The wind had picked up as we bounced over the swing bridge crossing the roaring Tasman River below and had our first close-up views of the Mueller Glacier.

On the return trip, we visited the Memorial Cairn with numerous plaques of those who have perished climbing in this area over the years.

We hopped back on the bikes, up the hill to the lodge and to our rooms. For the first of many times in the next six days, our bikes were loaded on the trailer ready for the

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first big day on Easter Sunday. Ellie and Elder prepared a delicious meal for tea. It was difficult to turn away from the expansive picture windows upstairs in the kitchen/dining area. The sunset and the snow-shrouded visage visible below the peak on Aoraki occupied us for what seemed like hours.

Day Two-Easter Sunday, Aoraki to Twizel

The wind howled all night so the promised helicopter flight this morning was in doubt. I managed to catch the sunrise over Aoraki as part of an early morning walk but the wind was strong enough to make walking difficult and later closed the Hooker Valley swing bridge. Seeing the statue of a young Sir Ed kitted out with climbing equipment in front of the Hillary centre was memorable.

No Fly Zone

Ellie and Elder had prepared an amazing breakfast complete with a large chocolate Easter Egg on our place mats. The pilot rang at 8.30 a.m. to say the flight was cancelled. There was just enough time to visit the stunning National Park Visitor Centre complete with picture postcard views of the snow being blown of the top of Aoraki, stained glass windows of the birdlife in the area and multimedia displays of the local Maori historical presence and the first mountain climbing expeditions. Elder reckoned this was the best visitor centre on the route.

We were told the rejigged plans for the day. So we cycled to the airport, our bikes were then loaded for the drive to the Jollie Car Park. Back on two wheels, the route was to Braemar Road. alongside Lake Pukaki and then Twizel. It was warm and sunny so despite the wind and the corrugated gravel road, we made good progress.

We stopped at the Tekapo B Power Station, an impressive piece of the Waitaki Hydro Electric Power scheme. Lunch was later near the lake, another sumptuous feast prepared by our guides. The main offroad trail wound its way around the lake edge, whipped up by the wind to produce waves and waterspouts.

The end of the stretch was over the Pukaki Dam to a large car park at the Lake Pukaki Visitor Centre and the Salmon Shop. Little did we know we would be eating some of that lovely salmon for tea!

The last part of the day’s excursion was to cross the highway to the 3 gate trail to Pukaki Flats, ‘an expansive area of dry grasslands that are characteristic of the Mackenzie

Above right: Lunch by Lake Ohau. Above left: . The Shadow tells the story at the A20 high point. Below left: A common sight on the A2O, bikes outside a cafe. Below right: Elder and Daniel swimming below Benmore Dam.

Best Dam cycling trip in the world

Busting the 315 km trail from Mt Cook to Oamaru

landscape’ (A20 cycle trail brochure). The fierce wind reminded us of its presence as it catapulted a small pine tree across my front wheel and cartwheeled across the flats.

After carefully crossing the main road to Twizel, we turned up a long drive to our farm stay rooms for the night. A delicious plate of nibbles helped to us unwind capped off by a tasty meal again prepared by the multi-talented Ellie and Elder.

The salmon and pavlova didn’t stand a chance and we were still drooling about it for the next few days. What better way to end the day than by stargazing, looking up at part of the Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve and testing our galactic knowledge.

Day Three- Twizel to Lake Ohau Lodge, then to Tarnbrae Track (High Point, 900m) and Quailburn Road

From the wonderful farm stay with friendly dogs and lots of huge tractors and another big breakfast, we cycled through Twizel and then along the Ohau canals. The weather remained fine but the wind still bit us from the front or the side at times. Much of the first section was over Old Glen Lyon Road before dropping off road onto the Lake Ohau Trail.

The large Ohau Weir was another of the ‘must-take-a picture moments’ which continued throughout the excursion.

Maybe you could have even bodysurfed on either Pukaki or Ohau due to the size of the wind-swept waves. Back on Lake Ohau Road the area lived up to its Maori meaning of ‘windy place’. The voracious head wind brought some of us to a complete stop or shunted us across to the other side near Lake Middleton.

The wicked wind created wide water-spouts which spun across the lake like Dementors. One of these flipped an electric biker in another group on her back. She did ride on however.

Should I stay or should I go now?

After lunch, we carried on towards Lake Ohau Lodge. Our guides then suggested that we complete another section of the trail in order to set-up an easier ride the following day. The wind would be either behind us or to the side. The section included the 900m highpoint of the trail, Tarnbrae and was a technical ride.

One of the group decided to get aboard the bus and meet up on the other side. I was wavering but Angela and Richard convinced me to have a go. One of the better decisions I have made.

Through the gate and onto the level 3 Tarnbrae Track. The first 11 km. was a rock-strewn trail that wound steadily upwards through burnt hillsides, evidence of last year’s fire. You couldn’t afford to be in the wrong gear in order to complete the last 2km grunt to the top. I gave myself a severe scolding in order to reach the top. Luckily no one else was around!

I stopped and took a photo of the high-point sign to mark my achievement and also to enjoy the extensive views back towards the lake.

Mr. Dan’s Wild Downhill Ride

It was 8km. down the Tarnbrae Track to Quailburn Road and the historic woolshed. For someone who hates downhill walking, running or cycling, this reminded me of the Disneyland ride recreating Mr Toad’s hair-raising automotive adventure.

A lovely bush section soon after

Above right: Kurow’s Hero. Below left: Elder fixes a flat tyre. Below right: Takiroa Maori Rock Art.

New Zealand Cycle Tour the top made a welcome change to the rocky climb and there were a few creeks to cross demanding a different focus. There were glimpses of the other riders ahead. Smiling Angela, the downhill queen, finally passed me but it did take her awhile.

After regrouping at the bus near the toilets and historic woolshed, we opted for another 8km of unsealed Quailburn Road towards State Highway 8. This was a good way to finish off a challenging day. Back in the bus to Ohau Lodge. A long soak in the outdoor spa, gazing at another side of Aoraki, with a beer or bubbles in one hand followed by a sumptuous meal in a crowded, happy lodge dining room made the tricky trail ride worth it.

Day Four- State Highway 8 to Otematata

The wind dropped about 4am. A stunning pre-dawn and sunrise behind a now serene Lake Ohau started the day brilliantly, and was followed by a large mainland breakfast. Back in the bus to drive to where we left off near State Highway 8.

It was Angela’s birthday, so the Stevie Wonder song in honour of Martin Luther King, Happy Birthday to You, featured on the bus sound system.

There was a pleasant cycle to Omarama for morning tea at the spacious and popular Wrinkly Ram. We headed east down the Waitaki (water of tears) valley. Cameras were in frequent use throughout the day as so many vistas were crying out to be captured on film as today was all about the crown jewel, Lake Benmore. This was Elder’s favourite section through Pumpkin Point and Sailor’s Cutting on the edge of the lake. Plenty of boats were anchored or out fishing at Sailor’s Cutting where we had lunch.

The guides put balloons on Angela’s bike and thereafter everyone else on the trail wished her happy birthday or asked what happened to the balloons. I was happy because the drag slowed her down and allowed me to catch up once in awhile

Upping the ante again to level 3

The following 16km of new trail up Translator and Rostriever Saddles with views of Turnagain and Junction Islands ramped up to a mix of Grade 2 and narrower Grade 3 difficulty.

At times it was a straight drop to the lake on your left shoulder with little room to the rocky walls on your right shoulder. The stunning scenery made up for it but concentration was needed to negotiate the twists and sudden ascents. Descending through a recently logged area, the Benmore Dam beckoned in all its pristine glory and with beautiful autumnal views towards Otematata.

Benmore is the largest dam in the Waitaki power scheme and the lake is Aotearoa’s largest man made lake filled in 1964. We regrouped for the cycle down the road to a swimming spot near the base of Aotearoa’s largest earth dam.

Not everyone was brave enough to enter the cold water but I am glad I did. There is no better way to ease sore muscles than dive into a giant

Above right: The trail winds around Lake Benmore.

Below left: Golden Autumn colours along the route.

Best Dam cycling trip in the world

Busting the 315 km trail from Mt Cook to Oamaru

liquid ice pack. On our bikes, up from the beach, and then to the cycle trail paralleling Loch Laird Road into Otematata.

That night we stayed at the Lakeside Apartments at the back of the Otematata Pub and looking out onto the local golf course. The pub meals were first class and it was filled with cyclists from other groups.

They helped us sing Happy Birthday to Angela when a large chocolate cake was delivered by the owner.

Day Five-Otematata to Elephant Rocks

Our longest stretch of sealed road began. We started from the top of Benmore Dam towards Te Akatarawa Road which we followed all the way around Lake Aviemore. This stretch allowed Richard, Angela and I to practice our drafting technique for quite a few kilometres.

Dead Wallabies in the middle of the road

We did have to dodge large dead wallabies in the middle of the road. According to others in our group, there were more dead wallabies on the side of the road. They were treated as pests in the area and local councils were trying to eradicate them.

We regrouped for morning tea at the Aviemore picnic area again bathed in sunshine. Off again on the trail towards the Waitaki Dam. This was the first power station to be built on the Waitaki River in 1935. (Up the Valley-The 3 dams, kurow.rg.nz) It was a perfect place to regroup and read all the displays about the first dam in the hydro-electric system.

Selfies with Richie and Solly

8 km off-road to Kurow, birthplace of our most famous All Black. You had to stand in the queue with all the other cyclists from other groups to pose alongside the large cut-out of Richie and the display board of the fund-raising thermometer for a proper statue.

Time for lunch at Wild Sage Café which featured Solly, the resident dog, who liked pats and cleaned up the scraps. We feasted on the largest cheese scones I have ever seen and other enormous plates of food. Better yet, everything was tasty.

Entering the Waitaki Whitestone Geopark

According to vanishedworld. co.nz, “A Geopark is the new UNESCO designation that gives worldwide status to a defined areas of international geological significance”.

We cycled through evidence of this throughout the day as 7,200 square kilometres of the Waitaki district displays its signature white limestone (AA Traveller).

The Waitaki River was on our left and SH83 on our right as our group headed to the Takiroa Maori Rock Art site, a significant place for the Ngai Tahu Whanui.

We passed through vineyards, across creeks, rivers and through lots of irrigation systems at times spraying “Eau de Bovine”.

The guides had us in stitches earlier talking about previous riders who purposefully headed for the sprinklers to cool down only to find out that sometimes it was effluent being sprayed back on the paddocks. Irrigation kept this area lushly green and productive.

There were lots of cattle stops, gates, small bridges to negotiate but the variety raised tiring alert levels.

Regrouping at the Takiroa Maori Art sites offered a chance to get off the bikes and have a good look around. Through the protective metal frames, you got a glimpse of ‘one of the earliest archaeological recordings in Aotearoa/New Zealand’ (heritage.org.nz).

Though the drawings are faint and weathered, they do provide glimpses of ancient Maori tribal culture.

Duntroon Wetlands, 1910 Gaol House to Aslan’s camp (Chronicles of Narnia)

A joint project between the local district development association, pupils from Duntroon School and Meridian Energy, protects the wetland and provides an extensive boardwalk, signage and photos highlighting the area. As you enter the outskirts of the town, there is a well-preserved display of the old jail, garages, etc. which are well-worth a look.

Well, we have had so many changes of environment today but the best was yet to come.

Cycling through Duntroon, there were more steady climbs on the trail up to Elephant Rocks. The bus was waiting for us but we had time to get off the bikes for the last time today and walk across the road to this unique collection of large-weathered limestone rocks which covers over 200 metres.

If you have seen the 2005 movie, The Chronicles of Narnia, this area was Aslan’s camp. Angela, Richard and I found caves, hidden hollows and yes, we think we saw the ‘Elephantshaped rock’.

We left for Oamaru, staying in the Brydone Hotel in the central city. There was time to enjoy this

“Victorian Jewel” of a hotel and city that evening.

Day 6 Elephant Rocks to Oamaru- Pumping to Steam Punk Heaven

Starting with a gigantic breakfast in a Victorian dining room at the Brydone Hotel set us up for our last day on the trail and a return to Christchurch.

We jumped on the bus for the trip for the return to Elephant Rocks. Gearing up for the final ride of the trip, Elder warned us of the hilly climbs in the first 15 kilometres.

Onwards and upwards

There was a series of short-sharp switch backs at the top of hill at Anatini, not long after starting. How many of the four gut-busting, twisting gradations could we scale? Richard did all four but the rest of us got off our bikes at one point or another.

Through Island Cliff, alongside Karara Creek, we ascended to the high point shelter at the junction with Cants Road. Thankful for a bit of paved road, we met the bus just before the disused Rakis Railway Tunnel.

These one and a half to two hour regular stops allowed us to regroup, refuel and check in with Ellie.

Elder told us to meet at the Oamaru Gardens, so that we could regather and ride together through Oamaru to the coast and the large picture frame marking the end of the trail at Friendly Bay.

For the first time on the adventure, the clouds closed in and the temperature dropped. However, this change did not last long and bright sunshine returned soon after.

Light at the end of the tunnel

I had completed the Remutaka Cycle trail five years ago, so had gone through tunnels before on a bike.

Rakis Tunnel Trail was short but muddy, rutted and dark even with a head lamp.

Angela and Richard were ahead already in the light waiting for us, so that made it easier to focus on getting through.

At one point on the trail, there were close encounters of the bovine kind. I followed a small mob until they turned off at the bridge and I sped past. You can’t say there wasn’t a lot of variety on this trip!

Elder to the rescue

On one of the farms, near some sheds, a rider from another group had a flat tyre. We all stopped to see if we could help.

Elder and Richard stayed behind to fix the tyre. It certainly saved her from walking the bike for many kilometres. Our group was lucky so far with no flatties, or accidents. We knew those two would easily catch us up as the trail had become flat and relatively fast in the Windsor area.

The crowd goes wild at the Fort Enfield Pub, 12 km from Oamaru

It seemed that most of the riders from the last few days had gathered outside the pub. Many were on electric bikes and gearing up for the downhill run to Weston and the Oamaru Gardens.

The trail was now built for speed and a lot of passing ensued amongst the groups.

We rejoined the old Railway line and into Saleyards Road. The end was nigh as we entered the amazing gardens on a sealed cycleway.

Elder, forever the sweeper on the entire ride, came through with the last two members of our group and we gathered together for the last section through the wide streets of Oamaru to Friendly Bay.

Blue Cod and chips to die for!

The A2O official finish sign was a welcome sight. We had individual and then group shots in the oversized picture frame with the Pacific Ocean in the background. The super thoughtful and friendly Ellie had the Chish and Fips waiting. Was this the best blue cod ever?

We got changed for the bus trip home at the sheds on the edge of the Steam Punk Playground. A perfect end to a perfect trip!

Epilogue

If you thinking of doing the A20, I would highly recommend doing it with Active Adventures. All we had to do was eat, cycle and sleep. Everything else was taken care of brilliantly.

Above right: Angela’s Birthday Balloon Bike.

Below right: Daniel makes it to Friendly Bay, Oamaru at the end of the A20.

(The author paid for his trip with Active Adventures.)