13 minute read
New Zealand Walks: My Favourite Walk: The
Subscribe or renew your subscription to Walking New Zealand today and you can save up to 22% off the cover price.
Subscribe today - just freephone 0800-925-546
Advertisement
m 2 years (24 issues) $159.00
You SAVE 22% off cover price m 1 year (12 issues) $84.50
NO POSTAGE NEEDED Just place in an envelope and post to:
Freepost 78863, Walking New Zealand Ltd, P O Box 1922, Palmerston North 4410
or fax 06-358-6864
or email details to: walkingnz@xtra.co.nz ............................................................................................................................................... Name
............................................................................................................................................... Address
................................................................................................................................................ Town/City Phone m Payment enclosed m Visa m Mastercard
Name on card ............................................................... Amt $ ...................
Above left: View from below the summit of Grampian Hill, Nelson, north over the city centre to the port.
Please tell our advertisers you saw it advertised in Walking New Zealand magazine.
The Grampian Track
for those looking for a little adventure By Alex and Jenny Davies
Having walked in the two other Grampian Ranges, it was only reasonable to take the opportunity to compare these with the hill directly behind the central part of Nelson.
The original Grampian Range in Scotland, lying between the southern edge of the highlands and the Great Glen, rises to the highest point in Britain, Ben Nevis, at 1345 m.
The Grampians National Park in Australia is 1672 km2 in area So, in planning a walk for only a few hours, the Nelson Grampians had a big advantage.
Nevertheless, we managed to get somewhat lost, just looking for a way in to the park. The main entrance to the Grampians from the city is at the end of Collingwood Street, but we started at the end of Trafalgar Street. Perhaps we were confused by the relevance of names from a sea battle fought on the other side of the world over two hundred years ago!
While seeking a way up on to the hill above us, we discovered the entrance to Melrose Gardens, into which a short walk led us past a remarkable collection of huge trees. At the cafe in Melrose House, we were directed to the closest entrance to the Grampians. Importantly, we also ascertained how to time our walk to be back before the cafe closed.
Near another grand old house, Fairfield, a steep path led up to join the track from Collingwood Street, which would have been a better choice. A well graded zigzag route took us on up to the crest of the ridge.
Behind us was now a good view north over Nelson’s city centre, its port and marina, and the thin black line of the remarkable Boulder Bank cutting across the blue of the bay beyond.
The path now levelled off, heading towards a prominent transmission tower at the highest point at 390 m. Sheep grazed between a mixture of regrowth of scrub and native trees, and a variety of conifers and decidu-
ous trees. To the West, we looked out over the Waimea Estuary to Rabbit Island, the sandy curve of Tasman Bay, and a snow sprinkled skyline of the Arthur Range. The ridges of the Bryant and Richmond Ranges were to the East.
Most of the city that surrounds the hill was out of sight. Runners and dog walkers passed us in both directions. It was an easy walk up to the transmission tower.
Our views here were blocked by trees, but by retracing our steps a short way we made our way to a lookout platform with signs interpreting the landforms to the West. They indicated that any appearance of stability is an illusion; in this part of the world, geologically everything
Walking New Zealand
magazine is available at all
Above: View from the lookout on Grampian Hill, Nelson, west to Waimea estuary, Tasman Bay and Arthur Range, Below left: View of Ben Nevis from the northern end of the West Highland Way before descending to Fort William at the western end of the Great Glen, Scotland.
Freephone 0800 walking
to subscribe to Walking New Zealand magazine Only $84.50 for 12 months
is changing fast.
We chose an alternative route back, beginning on the Mamaku Track that made tight zig-zags down through dense treefern forest, eventually emerging on to an old road formation, the Tawa Track that found a relatively level contour along the west side of the hill.
We passed through a large grove of mature radiata pines, then some huge redwoods, before meeting up with the track we had started on. Melrose Cafe was still open so we enjoyed our coffee on the sunny verandah of a stately home built in 1876, surrounded by trees planted in the 1890s.
Our access to the peak had been on the Grampians Walkway. An alternative route, especially on a hot summer day, would have been from the southern entrance to the park using the Kahikatea or Mahoe tracks, through ancient native forest.
Above: View of Hall’s Gap from the Wonderland Range on the edge of Grampians National Park, Victoria, Australia.
To Mordor, Emyn Muiland and Mount Doom
Tongariro National Park is home to Mordor, Emyn Muil and Mount Doom, and some of New Zealand’s most incredible scenery.
When you look around, it will immediately become obvious why the volcanic rock formations, barren hills and eerie, ash landscapes were chosen as settings for the home of Lord Sauron and many sinister scenes in the Lord of the Rings movies.
The Rangipo Desert was the backdrop to the armies of Orcs in the storming of the Black Gate, while the stunning symmetrical cone of Mt Ngauruhoe was digitally crafted to create Mount Doom itself, the place where the one ring was forged and ultimately destroyed!
Mt Ruapehu is the setting for the treacherous labyrinth of cliffs and ravines of Emyn Muil, where Sam and Frodo realise they are lost.
You may also recognise the Mangawhero River and Tawhai Falls as the Ithilien River, carving its way through the native forest, where Gollum catches his fish. The rocky slopes and grassy tussock of Tūroa are the location for Hidden Bay, the entrance to the Lonely Mountain in The Hobbit. The Desolation of Smaug.
Whether or not you are a Tolkien fan, Footsteps Walking Club’s Top_ Notch Taupo and Tumultuous Tongariro excursion (4-10 December, 2023) will introduce you to the absolute best day walks in this stunning central North Island region and provide a welcome pause before you enter
Ouch! Sore feet while walking?
Hikers Wool is 100% New Zealand wool. Cushion your feet to prevent pain, rubbing and blisters.
Buy online or at selected stockists
For more info visit www.hikerswool.co.nz
busy end-of-year festivities.
Highlights include:
NZ’s largest lake, created by the biggest volcanic eruption on the planet (Taupo).
Millions of litres of water plunging through a narrow gorge (Huka Falls).
The three magnificent volcanoes in our first national park, a World Heritage Area, including the North Island’s highest peak (Ruapehu, 2797m).
NZ’s worst railway disaster and carrot capital (Tangiwai/Ohakune).
NZ’s most famous and popular one-day walk (Tongariro Crossing).
One of our most impressive examples of railway engineering (Raurimu).
NZ’s largest totara tree (Pouakani).
The area where they catch a trout and shoot a deer in the same morning (Rangipo).
Forest giants and melodious birdsong in a forest saved from the axe (Pureora).
Walkways, waterfalls and rapids along our longest waterway (Waikato River).
You will observe that apart from the mountains, this region contains some of our most notable and beautiful forests, lakes, rivers and waterfalls, as well as the nearest we get to a rain-shadow desert. A few examples will suffice…
Water features abound – solid, liquid and gas, each with charms “to soothe the savage breast.” Those who ascend towards the snow and ice atop Ruapehu’s mountain roads find a magic playground for perambulations.
My favourite
To Mordor, Emyn Muiland and Mount Doom
By Phillip Donnell
Above: Skyline Ridge Mt Ruapehu. Below left: Tongariro from Rotoaira. Below right: At the centre of the North Island.
To Mordor, Emyn Muiland and Mount Doom
is the trail past the Rotokawa tarn and Waitonga Falls to Blyth Hut – a truly blithe undertaking (8km, three hours return). A leisurely lope around Lake Rotopounamu (5km, two hours), an emerald jewel nestled in the side of graceful Pihanga, cannot help but infuse serenity.
Opotaka is a pa site where you can learn about the history of the famous Ka Mate haka, see the remains of the Maori settlement, and enjoy inspiring views across Lake Rotoaira, as it welcomes water from the Whakapapa, Whanganui, Moawhango and Tongariro rivers before gently disgorging it downhill through Tokaanu’s penstocks into the southern end of Lake Taupo.
More than 30 rivers and streams flow into New Zealands biggest lake (616 square km). It’s 193km perimeter affords many attractive ambles, from Kinloch-Kawakawa Bay in the north (9km, two hours) to Pukawa-Omori in the south (1.4km, one hour 20 minutes).
The steaming Cliffs of Hipaua are worth a visit to see chimneys of steam floating from the bush-clad hillsides, as native kahu (harrier hawks) cruise the warm currents in the air.
Hot springs at Taupo and Tokaanu townships feed the thermal pools in which many a walker has gratefully relaxed.
Lake Taupo has only one outlet – the Waikato River, and there is no better introduction to its picturesque power than the Spa Park to Huka Falls Walkway (5.5km, two to three hours). Here you have the option of continuing down the true right bank to Aratiatia Dam (another 7km, two hours), where the periodic opening of the floodgates creates a mighty torrent, utilised by Peter Jackson to film the incident when Bilbo Baggins orchestrates the escape of the dwarfs from their elven captors by floating them downstream concealed in barrels.
The forest focus of the region is pristine Pureora Forest Park (78,000ha), which is regarded as one of the finest rainforests in the world. The park preserves the last remnants of the original native podocarp forests that once covered most of the central North Island.
One of New Zealand’s most significant conservation battles took place here in 1978. Protestors occupied platforms built in the treetops (near the site of the present day Forest Tower). Their actions led to a government-imposed logging moratorium and, eventually, the end of native forest logging in the park.
When deep under the canopy it’s easy to imagine primeval New Zealand as it existed thousands of years ago.
This forest contains several walking highlights. A short 10-minute walk on a flat track off Waimonoa Road leads to the geographical centre Above left: A pouakani tree. Above right: The Pureora Forest Tower. Below left: Tieke Falls on the Waihaha River.
of the North Island (marked with an interesting explanatory plinth). It is a great place for photo opportunities and some mindful moments.
Dreamy, magical, and otherworldly are just a few ways to describe the fantasy-filled landscape of the Waihora Lagoon Walk, one of the most beautiful spots in the park, surrounded by tall rimu and kahikatea. The towering ancient giants reflected
FOOTSTEPS
OFFERING THE BEST DAY WALKS IN 20 REGIONS OF NEW ZEALAND!
Each region has a week-long package (for 6-10 people), including transport and accommodation.
We welcome your enquiry: footstepsanz@gmail.com or phone 021 172 3244 in the water is a sight to behold.
Allow approximately two and a half hours one-way for the 2.6km climb to the summit of Mount Pureora, starting from Link Road, with boardwalks and steps to make the going easier.
This walk offers fantastic expansive views across Lake Taupō, the Mamaku Ranges, Mt Taranaki, and Mt. Ruapehu.
All this and much more await you. Give yourself an early Christmas present by joining us for a spectacular journey.
Contact Footsteps Walking Club: 021-172-3244, footstepsanz@gmail. com. Full information can also be found on our website www.footstepswalkingclub.com. Above: Mount Doom. Below right: The Tawhai Falls.
Tramping Socks
Features: * Double ribbed cuff – prevents sock slippage * Added cushion and elastic support of Achilles tendon and arch * Mesh ventilation zones – temperature and moisture control * Nylon heel and toes reinforcements – increased durability plus added cushioning for comfort * Flat toes seam – prevents toe irritation * Cotton 66.2%, Spandex 14.8%, Dry Zone 19%
Men’s size: 9-13, Leg Length 17cm Colours: Black, Blue, Brown Womens size: 6-11, Leg Length 24cm Colours Black, Brown
$26.95 plus $7 Shipping
Available now from: Walking New Zealand Shop
P O Box 1922, Palmerston North Phone 0800-925-546 email walkingnz@xtra.co.nz. www.walkingnewzealand.co.nz
Pukawa to Omori Track
he Pukawa to Omori Track
Tbegins at end of Kaiuru Avenue in Pukawa village (15 minutes drive west of Turangi – signposted to the right off SH 41).
The track wanders through the bush along the edge of Lake Taupo on an easy gradient.
Bellbird and tui are often seen in the trees above and from time to time glimpses of nearby Lake Taupo. The track emerges at Omori Reserve on the edge of the lake where there is a picnic area, toilet and shingle beach.
The reserve is notable for the kowhai trees which create a splash of bright yellow when flowering. Aluminium bands have been placed around some kohuhu trees to prevent possums from climbing up to eat the palatable native mistletoe.
The track continues on over the Omori Stream where in winter spawning trout may be seen. Another 10 minutes walk sees the end of the track at the Omori Boat Ramp. Popular with dog owners, be sure to pay attention to the local signs regarding dogs on council land around the lake.
Time: one hour 20 minutes, return via same track.
Above right: The view across Lake Taupo from Omori Scenic Reserve. Middle left: The track drops down to the lake edge. Left: Looking towards the wide verge towards Pukawa.
